How to plant summer blooming lilies. Growing lilies in open ground: rules and tips. We list the main stages of planting

How to plant indoor Lilies with seeds: planting and care, how and when to replant?

Lily is a perennial flower that grows in one place for at least five years.

In this regard, special attention should be paid to selecting a place for planting it and developing the soil, following all the recommendations of experienced gardeners. We will consider in detail when and how to plant lilies in this article.

How to choose a place?

Lily is a light-loving plant, so planting it in a shady place is not recommended.

If you plant this flower under trees or in an area that is in the shade of buildings for most of the day, then you may not expect beautiful flowering.

When choosing a site, you need to pay attention to the soil. You should not place the lily in a damp place, as the bulbs will begin to rot there.

Be especially careful that the place where the lilies are planted is not flooded with meltwater in the spring.

The soil for planting should be loose and as breathable as possible. Before planting, the area must be dug well and humus, peat and mineral fertilizers added to the ground.

When is the best time to replant lilies?

When to plant lilies? Lilies can be planted in autumn and spring.

At the same time, spring planting of lilies has both pros and cons. The positive thing is that the bulbs will not freeze over the winter.

Spring planting promotes flower survival and the formation of powerful roots.

At the same time, the disadvantage of spring planting is the untimely appearance of sprouts in purchased specimens. This happens because when selling, the bulbs are taken out of cold warehouses, and once in the heat, they quickly sprout.

But it is not always possible to plant them in the ground at this time, since the weather does not permit. In this case, the bulbs should remain in the soil until the sprouts become higher than 10-15 cm.

Spring planting is also unfavorable in hot and dry weather. The bulb in such conditions may dry out and not sprout.

Autumn planting is most suitable for the flower. It is produced at the end of September. Before frost sets in, the bulb has time to take root, and the winter period goes well for it. In the spring, as soon as warm weather arrives, sprouts appear from the ground, and the lily begins to develop and prepare for flowering.

Unfortunately, autumn planting has one significant drawback - the paucity of assortment on sale. Sellers begin selling bulbs in the spring. Sometimes it is not possible to save purchased bulbs until autumn.

Landing technology

How to plant lilies correctly? For planting lilies, holes are prepared, approximately 30-40 cm deep.

A layer of gravel is placed at the bottom, then a layer of sand, and a small layer of soil is sprinkled on top.

The holes should be located at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

Before planting, the bulbs are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, then with a fungicide. Place the onion at the bottom of the hole, straightening the roots along its diameter.

The planting depth depends on the size of the specimen. Usually they focus on the height of the bulb; the height of the soil above it should be three times higher.

The planting is covered with a layer of soil, making a kind of mound, and the top is mulched with peat, humus or small pine needles.

Lilies from seeds: planting and care

Let's look at how to plant lilies with seeds.

The seeds are sown in February or early March in a mixture of leaf soil and sand. Garden soil with the addition of humus, peat and sand will also work.

Before planting, Lily seeds must be disinfected with a 2% concentration of hydrogen peroxide solution.

Experienced gardeners advise soaking the seeds in a 0.04% zinc sulfate solution. This will speed up the emergence of seedlings and protect them from bacteria.

Pour a layer of substrate into a flat container and bury the seeds 0.5 cm into it. Sprinkle sand on top of the crops. Moisten everything with a spray bottle and cover with transparent film or glass.

Germination should be done at a temperature of 20-25 degrees in a bright place. After the sprouts appear, the shelter must be removed and the temperature reduced to 15-18 degrees for several days - this will prevent the sprouts from stretching.

After the leaves appear, the plants are planted in separate pots. They can be transplanted into open ground in early June, when the threat of frost has passed.

Rules for transplanting lilies

Lilies can grow in one place for at least 4-5 years, then they should be replanted.

The process itself is called “transplantation” only conditionally. You can plant them again in the same area after certain manipulations.

It is necessary to undergo a transplant due to the fact that the mother's bulb, starting from the 4th year, forms children around itself. As a result, the nest grows.

If you do not dig up and plant overgrown nests, the flowering of the lily will slow down and then stop altogether.

It is better to transplant lilies in the fall, when the dormant period begins. It is important to do this before the first frost so that the transplanted bulbs have time to take root. If the autumn is too warm, then it is better to delay the process so that the transplanted specimens do not begin to grow.

When transplanting, the bulb is removed from the ground and the children are separated. Then they are washed in a solution of karbofos for about 15 - 20 minutes.

You need to dig up the bulb with the utmost care. Any damage will lead to her death.

After processing, the bulbs need to be dried in the shade and the roots trimmed to 9-10 cm. If you plant lilies in the same place where they grew before, the soil needs to be carefully dug up, humus and superphosphate added to it.

After planting, the soil is not watered. If the weather is rainy, the landing site should be protected from rain with film.

Following these simple rules for planting and replanting lilies will help you grow beautiful flowers that will become a real decoration of your site.

Detailed information and advice from experienced gardeners about all methods of propagating lilies can be found on our website: Propagation of lilies.

Useful video

Watch the video with details about transplanting lilies:

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How to grow lilies and achieve gorgeous blooms. Subtleties of planting and care

When choosing a lily, its name is a secondary matter; the group to which a particular variety belongs is of key importance. Belonging to a certain group also dictates the specifics of agricultural technology. In the publication What do the mysterious codes in the names of lilies mean? Features of growing different hybrids you can find information about the classification of lilies and their main features. Knowing which group a variety belongs to, you can understand what requirements it places on the gardener and how to care for it, because often the conditions for growing lilies of different varieties are directly opposite.

The conditions for growing lilies of different varieties can be exactly the opposite.

When planting lily bulbs in your garden, you should first answer a number of questions:

• Where to plant?
• How to plant?
• When to plant?
• What to plant with?

Where to plant

The answer to the first question will be unequivocal: it is necessary to place lilies in a sunny flower garden; this plant does not tolerate shading. The place should be well ventilated, but protected from strong winds.

The southern exposure of the flower garden, protected from the north by a wall. Photo by the author

When choosing a place for planting, you must remember that different groups of lilies will develop successfully only on a certain type of soil. It is known that "Asian women" prefer slightly acidic soil, Tubular hybrids – neutral soils, Oriental lilies and Martagons grow exclusively on sour, and snow-white hybrids – on alkaline soils.

The place where you plant the bulbs should not be flooded with melt and rain water. It is best if it is a raised bed or flower bed. You should know that lilies cannot be planted where tulips or gladioli used to grow, since they have the same pathogens. In general, marigolds are considered good predecessors for lilies, as they greatly improve the health of the soil.

How to plant

If we take into account the requirements of individual groups of lilies for the type of soil, then otherwise the rules of agricultural technology are almost the same. For planting Asian and Oriental hybrids, it is necessary to add a peat-compost mixture; for Tubular lilies, it is good to add wood ash, bone meal and lime (1 cup per m²). Martagons will require the addition of peat. The remaining groups develop well on neutral soils.

Lily bulbs

The planting depth for bulbs with “real” bottom roots is 3 times the height of the bulb. Bulbs of varieties that have stem roots are buried deeper - to the level of the aerial roots. Deeper planting is even preferable, since in this case it protects the plant from freezing in the fall.

In spring, deep-planted bulbs vegetate more slowly, which saves the growth buds from recurrent frosts. In summer, bulbs planted at sufficient depth do not experience a lack of moisture. After planting, mulching with compost or peat is necessary to maintain optimal soil moisture and temperature.

Birth of a lily

Before planting, the bulbs must be pickled in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or the “Maxim” preparation. This will be a prevention against rot (botrytis) and other diseases. During planting, you can dust the bulb already sitting in the hole that has not yet been filled with wood ash. Fine clean river sand should be added under the bottom, and the bulb itself should be covered with it up to the very neck, and then with earth. This technique will protect the lily from damping off.

Fertilizer application

To prepare a place for lilies, add a bucket of peat and leaf humus, 4 cups of wood ash, 100 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per 1 m². With well-filled soil with organic matter, fertilizing for lilies should be predominantly mineral according to the usual scheme:

• in the spring 2 times with an interval of 2 weeks during the period of stem growth with a predominance of nitrogen fertilizers with the addition of microelements;
• in the second half of summer during the budding period, potassium preparations will be preferable.

During flowering, feeding is stopped. Towards the end of July - at the beginning of August they give the complex fertilizer “Fertika universal”.

When to plant

There is no clear answer to this question. According to the rules, it is recommended to bury new bulbs and divide old nests from late August to mid-September. However, in an early rainy and cold autumn, such bulbs may not take root and safely rot. In addition, in winter, the bulbs can become prey for mice, for whom they are a favorite treat.

When to plant? There is no clear answer to this question

To prevent this from happening, the snow at the place where lilies are planted must be trampled down, and the bulbs of especially valuable varieties must be planted in special plastic containers - such small baskets can be found in departments of plants for ponds. You can make them yourself from the mesh in which vegetables are usually packaged in supermarkets.

You can also choose similar containers in our market by looking at the selection of Baskets for bulbs.

An alternative could be spring planting; usually at this time, garden centers offer lily bulbs at bargain prices. However, we must not forget where there is free cheese. The quality of the bulbs purchased in the spring leaves much to be desired. They are usually limp, dried out, with spots of disease or other blemishes. The survival rate of such planting material is very low.

My gardening practice has proven that the best time for planting lilies, as paradoxical as it may sound, is summer, the flowering season. I usually buy plants with ZKS at the market in the nearest regional center or plants in pots with buds that are about to bloom or are already blooming at garden centers. In the first case, the product, that is, the lily, is shown face to face; you have the opportunity to evaluate the beauty of the flower, its aroma, and the height of the plant.

Blooming lilies with a closed root system in a garden center. Photo by the author

The name of the variety is written on the pots, and if you also know the group to which this or that variety belongs, then you can judge the specifics of agricultural technology. The survival rate of such lilies, as experience has shown, is one hundred percent; they won’t even notice how they end up in someone else’s garden. Moreover, you can “play” with such a lily by placing it in flower beds and achieving maximum color harmony.

Some gardeners arrange drainage for planting especially valuable varieties of lilies, especially oriental hybrids, by pouring crushed stone and sand into the bottom of the hole. The following video can be considered a good video instruction for summer planting a flowering lily purchased with a closed root system.

You can choose planting material in our market, which unites large online stores, where an impressive assortment awaits you. Check out the Lily Bulbs section.

What to plant with

Answering this question, I will definitely say - next to those plants that, firstly, bloom with lilies at the same time; secondly, where flowers grow with similar environmental requirements for lighting conditions and soil type. And thirdly, in the company of those plants that will favorably emphasize the regal beauty of these flowers. Lilies, as you know, have a lush, spectacular flowering “top” and a weakly leafy “bottom”, so they need companions that would compensate for this deficiency.

Bright phloxes are good with white lilies

Phloxes, which bloom with lilies at about the same time, are good as such comrades. The modern selection of phloxes allows you to select neighbors among them for almost any, even complexly colored lilies.

Blue phloxes go well with yellow, orange, and purple varieties of lilies. Photo by the author

An excellent neighbor would be Echinacea purpurea or yarrow, the hybrid varieties of which have different colors; you can choose a tone on tone or based on the principle of contrast.

A wonderful companion for lilies is Echinacea purpurea. Photo by the author

Good in company with lilies and astilbes with their lacy panicles.

The openwork panicles of astilbe create a hazy effect next to the lilies. Photo by the author

Garden geraniums are also extremely appropriate next to royal flowers. Their bushes, covered with small, unassuming flowers of pink, purple, blue or white color, like “foam,” will cover the “legs” of lilies.


Garden geranium ‘Rose Clair’. Photo by the author

Other ornamental plants with small flowers also go well with lilies: yarrow Ptarmika, which is popularly called pearl mussel, perennial and annual gypsophila, navel, speedwell.

White speedwell is used as a partner and neighbor for lilies. Photo by the author

Yellow and white varieties of lilies look great against the background blue delphiniums, and purple and pink ones are next to white varieties.

Lilies and delphiniums are good neighbors

It’s good to plant white bells, cornflowers, and even banal rustic cosmos together with lilies. The “legs” will be covered by cuffs or some annual flowering plants - ageratum, snapdragon, mignonette.

The “legs” of lilies will be covered by some annual flowering plants

You should not plant lilies next to daylilies, which will obviously lose this competition. And, of course, with roses, despite the opinion that this is a classic neighborhood. Lilies, of course, are suitable for the fertile soil of the rose garden and the opportunity to overwinter together with roses in a shelter (this is especially true for oriental and OT hybrids). But they are harmed by the presence of manure, which is usually used to mulch roses. And in decorative terms, these cultures will argue. In addition, the strong suffocating smell of many varieties of lilies completely drowns out the delicate aroma of roses.

It is also inadvisable to plant several fragrant varieties of lilies nearby, which will compete with each other, sometimes creating unbearable perfume combinations. Peonies and lilies are not the best neighbors for the same reason as roses. They are also usually fed with mullein, which is strictly contraindicated for lilies.

Martagons in a natural style flower garden. Photo by the author

Excessive decorativeness of lilies is contraindicated for flower beds in a natural style. It is better to use martagons there, where they will look more organic than in a regular mixborder or in a flowerbed.

By answering 4 important questions, you will have a clear idea of ​​where in your plot lilies can be grown, what you will need to prepare before the planting process, when exactly in your case you should plant this wonderful plant and which neighbors to choose for it. By doing everything right, you will get rid of disappointments and get wonderful healthy flowers.

When to plant lilies

Having decided to decorate his life with royal flowers, the gardener must decide when to plant lilies: in spring or autumn. A lot depends on the right timing: flowering, preparing the plant for winter, its health.

When is the best time to plant

Typically, gardeners prefer to plant lilies in the fall. This is correct from the point of view of the biological cycle of the lily: having completed its flowering, it begins preparations for winter. The corm restores the energy spent on luxurious flowers, stores nutrients, and then goes into a state of rest. This is the time that is favorable for planting. The plant wakes up quite quickly, grows its root system and its own body. This is how nature intended it; its wise decision should not be contradicted.

Important! Lilies planted in the fall form significantly more daughter bulbs, which are better adapted for independent life.

Optimal planting schedule by region:

• Middle zone: mid-September - end of October;
• Urals: early September - first ten days of October;
• Siberia: September;
• South of Russia, Ukraine: from the first days of September to the end of November.

It is important to follow the landing order:

• They always start with candidum, which blooms in June;
• then lilies of American and Caucasian origin are planted;
• Complete the planting with oriental, trumpet, tiger, Tibetan, Asians can be planted in the summer.

When to plant lilies in open ground in the fall is determined by the air temperature - it should be around +10°C. In warmer weather the bulb will grow, in cold weather it will not have time to take root and will survive wintering worse.

Planting lilies in autumn

The bulbs have time to get used to the new place and get stronger before the winter cold. With the very first warm days they begin to grow, and they tolerate the return frosts of April-May without catastrophic consequences.

Important! Candidums, martagons, and some oriental hybrids are planted at the end of August (for Siberia the deadline is the middle of the month).

In the spring, lilies are planted that are not adapted to harsh winters - most oriental lilies, all American lilies, trumpet lilies and hybrids derived from them, late-flowering Asiatic lilies. The optimal time is considered to be mid-April, the determining factor is that the soil has completely thawed and warmed up moderately. In the south, garden lilies are planted earlier.

When planting in spring, the order of when to plant certain types of lilies is also observed: tiger and Tibetan lilies are planted first, terry lilies are planted last, as they are more demanding of heat.

Pay attention! Water lilies are planted only in spring.

Also, the planting of bulbs that for various reasons were not planted in the fall is postponed until spring:

• sudden early persistent cold;
• planting material was purchased at an end-of-season sale;
• The package with the ordered nodules arrived late.

This situation makes it necessary to store the bulbs. There are several rules to help preserve them until spring:

1. before storing the bulbs, inspect them, cut off damaged areas, and disinfect them;
2. carry out anti-fungal treatment with potassium permanganate, a solution of any fungicide;
3. dry the material in a cool, dark room.

Store wrapped in paper or sprinkled with sawdust. A ventilated room with moderate humidity, where the temperature is kept at 3-5°C, is suitable for storage. A small number of corms are kept in the refrigerator.

Important! Planting material requires care: it is regularly checked in order to promptly identify tubers that have begun to mold or rot, as well as those that have begun to germinate. Diseased bulbs are processed and stored, and sprouted bulbs are planted in pots.

How to plant lilies

In order for graceful flowers to reveal their beauty to the fullest, a summer resident needs to know how to plant lily bulbs correctly.

Selecting a location

The most difficult thing in growing an aristocrat is choosing the right place: the requirements of different species are not the same.

Place to plant lilies

Conditions common to all lilies:

• protection from cold winds or drafts;
• good drainage;
• no stagnation of melt or rain water.

Relation to lighting and wind

Fact! Oriental and curly hybrids feel comfortable in light shade, which helps preserve the color of the corollas. Asian and LA hybrids love the sun, but grow and bloom well in indirect light.

Protection from the wind has its own additional conditions: the place where they are planted must nevertheless be well ventilated, since the lack of ventilation between the stems leads to sad results - to diseases and pests.

When it comes to choosing a location, summer residents consider it a fair statement: it is easier to choose a lily suitable for the free space on the plot than to find where to plant an already purchased bulb.

Soil requirements

Soil requirements

Here, too, the individuality of the species is evident. The general preference is for breathable loams or sandy loams with a high humus content. Regarding the pH value, there are differences:

• candidum, martagon, Henry lily prefer slightly alkaline soil;
• long-flowered, Canadian, tiger and their hybrids prefer a slightly acidic environment;
• if the origin of the lily is unknown, they stop at a neutral reaction.

Preparing the landing site

Preliminary preparation is required even for soil ideally suited for lilies: digging 40 cm to saturate the soil with oxygen and applying fertilizers:

• compost or humus - 5-10 kg/sq. m;
• potassium sulfate - 30-50 g/sq.m. m;
• superphosphate - 60-100 g/sq.m. m.

It is possible to use ready-made complex formulations for bulbous plants or specifically for lilies, which are used according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Bulb planting depth

They usually use the standard rule for bulbous plants: the distance from the bottom to the surface of the earth is three times the size of the bulb. But there are a number of clarifications that determine how deep a particular variety needs to be deepened:

• stem-root lilies are buried 25 cm or more;
• low-growing cultivars require a depth of 10-12 cm;
• medium-sized ones need 12-15 cm of sealing;
• tall ones are planted at a depth of 15-20 cm.

The data is given for large bulbs; small planting material is planted at 2/3 of the depth recommended for large ones.

Important! On heavy soils, the planting depth is less than on light soils.

Preparing the bulbs

All the bulbs are purchased in a specialized store, purchased from neighbors in the country, our own, pre-cooked. The material is cleaned and the sections are disinfected. Remove dry scales and dead roots. Etch with potassium permanganate (5 g/1-l of water, explication time 30 minutes), Fundazol (0.2%) or Karbofos (1 tbsp/10 l of water). Dry it.

Preparing bulbs for planting

Landing technology

Immediately before planting, holes are dug. The distance between them is determined quite arbitrarily, but make sure that they are separated from each other by no less than 15-30 cm, depending on the height. If flowers are grown for cutting, the step is increased.

Step by step planting guide:

1. shorten the roots, leaving a maximum length of 10 cm;
2. Coarse river sand, washed and disinfected, is poured onto the bottom of the planting hole, and a mound is formed from it;
3. A corm is placed on the mound, the roots are straightened along the slopes;
4. pour sand to completely cover the bulb;
5. fill up the soil;
6. Water abundantly, spread mulch in a layer of 5-7 cm.

The mulch material is selected according to the type of lilies - sawdust and peat are suitable for Asian, oriental, and LA hybrids; for martagons, compost and wood ash are mixed; for others, the material is not important, the main thing is that it is organic.

Pay attention! To prevent mice or other rodents from eating the planted bulbs in winter, they are coated with a repellent compound. The inexpensive Vishnevsky ointment is best suited for this purpose.

Features of planting daughter bulbs and bulbs

To propagate lilies, daughter bulbs are usually used, with which the adult, maternal bulb grows. A number of varieties, called bulbiferous, form such bulbs (bud bulbs) in the axils of the leaves. Planting small material has a number of features.

Planting bud bulbs

The least traumatic method of propagating lilies, which does not require digging up the main bulb. Tiny baby bulbs are formed in many Asian hybrids, tubular, tiger and individual varieties.

The children finally mature towards the end of flowering of the mother plant: they are easily separated from the stem; some manage to produce small roots, less often miniature leaves.

Even if propagation of lilies is not included in the gardener’s plans, mature children are collected so that the flower beds are not clogged with unnecessary growth. If the goal is to breed this variety, then prepare for planting baby bulbs in advance:

• choose a place for a garden bed that is better shaded;
• dig up the soil, simultaneously adding a special fertilizer for lilies or a mixture of ammonium nitrate (30 g/sq. m), potassium sulfate (10 g/sq. m), superphosphate (10 g/sq. m).

Immediately after collection, ripened bulblets are kept in a weak solution of manganese for 2 hours for disinfection, then planted in grooves about 3 cm deep in increments of 5-6 cm, covered with soil and watered well. After watering, lay out a layer of organic mulch.

Bulbous lilies are frost-resistant, so young plants do not need shelter for the winter. As insurance for the schoolchildren, they rake up dry leaves and cover them with spruce branches.

Planting baby bulbs

This method of propagation involves regular digging up of the mother plant, once every 3-4 years, in order to separate the children from the main bulb. The best time for this is a month after the end of flowering, when the main bulb has recovered and become stronger. Some varieties do not need to be dug up, because... the babies form on the underground part of the stem; just rake off the soil and sift it.

Such bulbs are planted on school beds prepared in the same way as in the previous case, only the planting depth is 3-5 cm and the pitch is 10-12 cm. The process of preparing daughter bulbs is similar to preparing bud bulbs.

In the first year of flowering there will be no plants that have grown from children; full-fledged lily buds form in the second year. Experienced lily growers recommend abandoning the first flowers in favor of growing the bulb and strengthening it.

Additional information. Baby bulbs can be sprouted at home in flower containers, or stored until spring planting in the refrigerator or on a cold closed balcony.

What is the difference between planting lilies at home?

How to plant lilies and care for them at home - the process is no more complicated than in the open ground, but just as exciting, especially since the flowering period can be adjusted - get a flowering plant by March 8 or a family date.

Having decided which variety will be grown, select a pot. The approximate ratio of plant height to container height is 4:1; an area of ​​16-18 square meters is required for the development of a large bulb. cm.

Planting in a pot

Several bulbs are planted in a large pot: if it is too crowded, the lilies will bloom more readily. In a large space, they will engage in reproduction - increasing the number of children until the excess “living space” is filled.

The instructions describe how to plant lilies in a pot:

• choose Asian, oriental, long-flowered hybrids. Their height - dwarf, medium or tall - is determined based on the capabilities of the interior;
• a bulb suitable for planting must be healthy, dense, weighing about 40 g;
• The bulb is kept for 2-3 weeks at a temperature of about 5°C - stratified;
• before planting, they are subjected to 2-hour disinfection with potassium permanganate, then placed in a growth stimulator for 12 hours;
• 5 cm of drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot - expanded clay, pebbles, crushed bricks, and 10 cm of nutritious soil mixture is poured;
• lay the bulbs bottom down, slightly pressing them into the ground;
• cover with a thick (15-20 cm) layer of substrate, water generously with warm, soft water.

Important! There should be at least 7 cm left from the surface of the ground to the edge of the pot to add soil as the lily grows and adventitious roots form.

To correctly determine when to plant potted lily bulbs, study the characteristics of the selected variety - how long it takes from germination to flowering, plus 2-3 weeks for germination.

When choosing a time for planting lilies - autumn or spring - they weigh all the pros and cons so that they grow healthy, full and long-blooming beautiful flowers, replacing each other.

How to plant lilies correctly: planting pattern and depth

For such delicate and sophisticated flowers as lilies, planting and care are of great importance. This is especially true for the most beautiful exotic varieties. It is necessary not only to determine the correct planting time, but also to choose a good place for a flower bed with lilies, plant them according to one of the schemes, maintaining the required distance between plants and the optimal depth in accordance with the characteristics of the type of lily.

Choosing a suitable place to plant lilies

Having lovingly selected the most beautiful varieties of lilies for your flower garden, and having waited for the right time to plant lilies, you suddenly realize that you have no idea at all what pattern to plant the plants in, and at what depth the lilies should be planted. If you plant flowers too deep, they will bloom late, and if you plant them too shallow, the plants may become infected with disease.

Plant flowers too deep and they will bloom late

When planning how to plant lilies so that they look harmonious in the flowerbed, be sure to consider the size, height, shape and color of the flowers. For example, tall varieties of lilies are best planted in small groups or placed in the background of flower beds. And low-growing varieties of lilies with small flowers will go well in a flower bed with peonies, phlox and daylilies.

A good option would be to combine roses and lilies in one bed - planting these flowers together will significantly ease your troubles with covering plants for the winter.

When choosing a suitable place for planting lilies, keep in mind that these flowers need nutritious, loose soil, free from weeds and permeable to water. Most Asiatic lilies and trumpet hybrids like open areas, but you can grow them in light shade, just not near trees - there is strong shade and dry soil. Success in growing drooping lilies, orange lilies, daurian lilies, pleasant lilies, plain lilies, long-flowered lilies, dwarf lilies and Chalcedon lilies can be achieved by planting them in a sunny location. But Japanese, golden, Carniolian, curly, two-row, calloused, beautiful, magnificent and reddish lilies prefer partial shade. Knowing how to plant lilies correctly and which area is best to choose for growing, you will definitely achieve great results!

What kind of soil do lilies need?

Before plowing, along with organic fertilizers, it is also advisable to add phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers to the soil.

Planting lilies requires thorough preparation of the soil in advance, since in one place the lily will grow without replanting for three to five years:

• add humus, peat and sand to heavy soil, just do not overdo it with organic fertilizers, otherwise the above-ground part of the lilies will quickly grow to the detriment of the formation of bulbs, the plants will be less resistant to diseases and less winter-hardy;
• add 8 kg of humus per 1 m2 to podzolic poor soils;
• in leached chernozem soils per 1 m2 - 4 kg of humus;
• Before plowing, along with organic fertilizers, it is also advisable to add phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers to the soil.

Keep in mind that different types of lilies require different soil acidity. Most varieties of lilies grow well in neutral soil, but umbrella, curly, bulbous, white, Tibetan, single-color lilies, as well as Regale and Martagon lilies prefer soil with a slightly alkaline reaction. The following lilies can grow on acidified soils: Daurian, tiger, drooping, David, Wilmott, Maksimovich.

How to plant lilies correctly: at what depth, and according to what pattern

So, the place for planting lilies has been chosen, the soil has been prepared, now you need to decide at what depth to plant the lilies. Here you need to take into account not only the type of lily, but also the size of the bulb and the plant’s ability to form stem roots. Basically, bulbs are planted in the ground to a depth three times their diameter.

Basically, bulbs are planted in the ground to a depth three times their diameter.

Tall varieties with large flowering stems (Wilmott, Henry, curly) are planted deeper than indicated above, and even greater depth is required for lilies with stem roots. Planting lily bulbs with a rosette of ground leaves (terracotta, snow-white, Catesby) is done to a depth of two centimeters, with the expectation that the tops of the scales are located near the surface.

The depth of planting lilies also depends on the characteristics of the soil: it is better to plant the bulbs deeper in sandy light soil than in heavy soil. In general, deeper planting provides the bulbs with sufficient moisture in the summer, optimal temperature in the winter, and protection from frost in the spring. More baby bulbs and stem roots are formed on the long underground part.

The lily planting scheme is presented in three options:

• single-line ribbon with a distance of 5-15 cm between lily bulbs in a row and 50 cm between lines;
• two-line ribbon (for medium-sized lilies) with a distance between bulbs of 15-25 cm, 25 between lines, and 70 cm between ribbons;
• three-line ribbon (for low-growing lilies) with a distance between the bulbs of 10-15 cm, maintaining the same amount between ribbons and lines as with a two-line planting.

Let's talk briefly about how to plant lilies correctly. First of all, dig holes with a scoop according to the chosen pattern to the desired depth. Prepare protective cushions in each hole from a mixture of washed river sand and ash. Plant the bulbs on sandy cushions, carefully straightening their roots and slightly pressing the bulbs into the sand. Fill the hole with soil on top, water and mulch with peat. This completes the planting of lilies.

Planting lilies in open ground in spring - choosing a variety, preparing bulbs and soil

Lilies - regal, majestic flowers - will decorate any garden plot. It is impossible not to love lilies. No one remains indifferent when looking at these colorful, fragrant inflorescences. Despite all their beauty, they do not require much care. Planting lilies in the spring is an easy way to grow these perennial long-flowered crops, which, subject to simple planting and care rules, delight gardeners with flowering for up to 10 years.

When to plant lilies in open ground

The time for planting lilies in the ground is determined by the variety. In spring, it is good to plant bulbs of tiger, Tibetan, oriental, trumpet, and Asian hybrids. It is important to have time to plant bulbs with sprouts up to 10 cm. If the sprouts are larger, it is better to place them sideways when planting. As soon as the snow melts from the site, you can begin preparing the soil for the flower bed. In the southern regions, during dry, hot weather, planting lilies in the ground in the spring is not recommended.

This perennial is planted from late April to early May. To speed up flowering, you can sprout lily bulbs before planting. A container with damp moss, sawdust, or coconut substrate in a warm, sunny place is suitable for this. The main requirement is to protect it from drying out and waterlogging. When the weather is suitable, bulbs with strong sprouts can be planted in a flower bed.

Landing dates

Every gardener dreams of growing a beautiful, abundantly flowering perennial crop. Rooting, long and abundant flowering, healthy plant growth depend on several factors:

• compliance with planting deadlines;
• planting depth;
• compliance with the recommended interval;
• site selection;
• preparing the soil for a flower bed.

The timing of spring planting of lilies differs slightly for different regions. Planting is possible when the soil warms up. This is the end of April - beginning of May (depending on the region). Tubular, oriental hybrids are planted as soon as the snow melts from the site, tiger, Tibetan lilies - in early April, terry varieties - in April. Be sure to cover the planting site with mulch. If you are simply transplanting flowers from one place to another, do it with a lump of earth.

Advantages of April landing

Planting lilies in April has a number of advantages over autumn and summer:

• preventing overcooling of bulbs in winter;
• the ability to protect the bulbs during autumn frosts;
• the possibility of planting already sprouted flowers;
• creating favorable conditions for the development of the root system;
• fast, good plant survival;
• proper soil preparation helps the plant to actively develop;
• preserve the bulbs in optimal conditions until planting.

How to plant lilies

Before decorating a flower garden, you should prepare the soil. When digging up the soil, clods are crushed, weed roots and stones are removed. This improves soil drainage and makes it easier to control weeds in the future. They dig to the depth of a shovel, but if the soil has not been cultivated before or the area was flooded earlier, it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil and dig deeper.

The ground for the flowerbed must be prepared, because... A lily bed requires loose, fertile soil, without nearby groundwater. When digging a site, add per 1 sq.m:

• peat – 1 bucket;
• wood ash – 100 g;
• humus – 8 kg;
• superphosphate - according to instructions.

Before planting, each hole should be moistened, but not flooded. Planting depth depends on the size of the bulb. The hole should be 2-3 times the height of the bulb. On light sandy soils, the planting depth is 3 times the length of the bulb (the height of the sprout is not taken into account); on heavy clay soils, the planting depth is 2 times the length of the bulb.

The distance between holes depends on the variety. Tall ones are planted after 20–30 cm. Low-growing ones are planted after 10–15 cm. River sand is poured in a heap at the bottom of the hole in order to protect the bulb from excess moisture. Cover with soil. Cover the top of the planting with mulch. If the height of the sprout exceeds 10–15 cm, the bulbs are laid sideways and sprinkled with sand and soil with care, because the sprouts are fragile. If the sprouts are large and it is too early to plant in open ground, use peat pots. As the weather warms up, plant flowers directly in the flowerbed.

It is possible to grow at home on a windowsill, balcony, or winter garden, provided that the planting dates for lilies are observed. You can use soil purchased in a store. Suitable soil is composed in the following proportions:

• turf soil - 3 parts;
• leaf soil - 1 part;
• humus – 1 part;
• sand - 1 part.

The third part of the selected container for the lily should be filled with a layer of drainage. Small pebbles, shards or large expanded clay are suitable for this. Some gardeners use crushed eggshells.

The pot for planting the bulb should not be large. In large tubs or flowerpots you can plant tall, large bushes, for example the Regale variety, or several short and medium-sized varieties. Pour drainage into about one-third of the bottom of the pot. Then a little prepared soil, on top of a layer of 3 cm of calcined sand. Plant a lily on the sand and cover 2/3 with soil. In this case, the pot should not be filled to the brim. It should be taken into account that in the future, as the stem grows, the bulb will need to be filled up to the neck.

Selection and storage of planting material

When purchasing in a store, carefully inspect the planting material. The main thing is that the onion is not flaccid, but dense, elastic, and fleshy. Choose large, healthy bulbs with a hard neck, without damaged tissue, cracks, or dry scales. Do not buy dry, wrinkled, light, soft, porous onions. The sprout, if there is one, should be short, powerful, thick, but no more than 10 cm.

Carefully inspect the bulbs, remove dry or rotten scales. Then disinfect with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. Dry and place in vermiculite. In order to avoid deformation of the shoot, the packaging must be loose. Planting material should be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf in paper bags or plastic bags with holes.

What soil is suitable for lilies

New plantings are carried out in an area where lilies have not been grown before. For a lily bed, choose a dry, sunny area. The soil must be loose, nutritious, permeable, without stagnant water - the roots rot from dampness, and the flowers grow poorly and may die. Lilies normally tolerate a little shade, but in dense shade they grow poorly and produce few buds. A good neighborhood in a flower garden with roses - they have a beneficial effect on each other.

If the designated area has heavy clay soil, you need to add peat, sand, and compost 20 days before planting. Different varieties of lilies prefer different types of soil. Most varieties prefer neutral soils. Daurian and Tiger lilies are well suited to slightly acidic soil. Single-color, white, bulbous and curly varieties love slightly alkaline soil.

Fertilizer application

After planting, the entire period of growth, development, and flowering, the lily needs feeding. For this, complex fertilizers designed for bulbous flowers are best suited. Fertilizing should be done according to the instructions, taking into account that during the growth period the flower needs nitrogen, and during the flowering period – phosphorus and potassium. During the entire growing season, lilies need three main feedings:

• when shoots appear - with urea and complex fertilizers;
• when setting buds - potassium sulfate and superphosphate;
• during the flowering period - a solution of mullein and nitroammophoska.

Mineral

Fertilizers applied to the soil improve its composition. They provide the plant with nutrients for full growth and development. Mineral fertilizers contain many microelements that organic fertilizers cannot provide to flowers. Fertilizer rates for specific purposes:

• for abundant, long flowering, development of the root system, strengthening the immune system, add to the soil when digging per 10 square meters: 200 g of urea, 0.5 kg of potassium sulfate, 1 kg of superphosphate;
• for general strengthening of plants, 1.5 kg of azofoska is added to the soil per 10 sq.m;
• during active flowering, a solution of nitroammophoska 50 g per 1 bucket of water is poured under the root to feed;
• To activate plant growth and set buds, add 1 tbsp ammonium nitrate to the soil. l. per 1 sq.m;
• To protect against fungal infections, add 1 tbsp of ammonium nitrate to the soil. l. per 1 sq.m. once in the spring for the whole season.

Organic

When digging, adding rotted humus makes the soil looser, facilitates access of air and moisture to the roots, saturates it with nutrients, and promotes the proliferation of worms. 8 kg of humus is added per 1 m². For heavy soils, add 1.5 buckets of peat and sand. Wood ash protects plants from mold and disease. During the summer, fertilization with ash can be carried out 5-7 times at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq.m. The best fertilizer for active growth and flowering is diluted slurry at a rate of 1:10. It should be applied with the onset of warm spring days once a month.

Watering mode

The need for water is the most important for plants - they die from a lack of moisture and from its excess. Poor, irregular watering leads to improper formation of flowers, deformation, and death of the plant. Overmoistening leads to fungal and bacterial diseases, rotting of the bulb and roots. Surface watering is harmful to plants because... the roots begin to stretch upward towards the moisture and dry out on the surface of the soil. Follow the watering recommendations:

1. A newly planted and blooming lily should be watered abundantly. The rest of the time, watering should be regular but moderate.
2. Watering should be done in the evening.
3. Water should not get on the leaves of plants, as this will cause burns.
4. The most suitable watering for lilies is drip irrigation.

Protection from pests and diseases

To grow and propagate lilies, care must be taken to disinfect planting material and soil. Fungal and viral diseases affect the trunks and leaves of lilies, deteriorate the appearance of flowers and destroy the flower completely. The spread of rot is promoted by high humidity and abundant watering. To grow healthy and beautiful flowers, the following treatment of the bulbs is carried out before planting to protect against infections:

1. rinse well;
2. place in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. (5-10 g per 1 bucket of water);
3. soak in a fungicide solution for 30 minutes;
4. remove damaged scales;
5. rinse in several waters;
6. treat with 1 tbsp karbofos solution. l. for 1 bucket of water.

Protection will improve if the plantings are insulated for a while. To do this, use mini-greenhouses, plastic bottles, and covering material. If planting material is not sufficiently processed during flowering, flowers can be susceptible to a number of diseases. To prevent diseases, the soil is spilled with Bordeaux mixture in May. In July, treatment is carried out 2 times. The plant is sprayed several times during the season. If the treatment does not help and the plant does not get better, it is dug up and destroyed so that others do not get sick.

They transform the most modest flower garden into a fabulous extravaganza - along with the filigree delicacy of wax buds, a delicate fragrance wafts over the flowerbed. Powerful plants fit perfectly into garden design; lilies are used to create mixed compositions of perennials, individual flower beds and spot plantings to create bright accents. When using lilies for joint plantings, it should be taken into account that the flowering time of plants is quite short, so long-flowering perennials are chosen for planting nearby.

Among lilies there are plants with flowers of different shapes and colors, belonging to more than 100 species, but most often in summer cottages there are specimens belonging to the groups Asian Hybrids, Eastern Hybrids, Tubular, OT hybrids. Growing these lilies does not involve any special difficulties, so the plants develop well in the plots. Bulbs are planted in the autumn-spring period; planting lily bulbs in the spring has its own subtleties, which we will discuss in detail in this article.

Spring: which lilies should be planted in open ground

Lily bulbs can be planted in open ground in the first half of autumn and spring. What determines the landing time? There may be several reasons for spring planting:

1. Late purchase of planting material in the fall, when weather conditions did not allow planting (sharp cold, frost, prolonged rains).
2. Lack of time for the gardener.
3. Inability to purchase lily bulbs of certain varieties for autumn planting.

The traditional time for planting this flower crop is the first half of autumn, which is directly related to the natural development cycle of lilies: after flowering (summer), a dormant period begins, which lasts all winter. Then, with the onset of spring, the bulb wakes up, new roots grow and flower buds appear.

Asian and OT-hybrid lilies tolerate wintering well when planted in autumn, but it is better not to leave the Oriental group for wintering in the open ground, as you will have to put a lot of effort into creating a reliable shelter.

But if necessary, in the spring you can plant lilies belonging to any species in the garden, the main thing is to carry out agrotechnical measures for planting lilies in the spring and carry out the work in the proper time frame.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring planting lilies

The advantages of planting lilies in the spring include:

1. Reducing the risk of spoilage and freezing of bulbs in winter, because even planting material purchased in the fall can be stored perfectly and without loss in a home refrigerator if there is no basement. If you follow the storage rules, lily bulbs will take root well in the spring and will delight you with gorgeous flowers.
2. There is no need to insulate flower beds with bulbs for the winter.
3. The risk of rodents eating lilies is eliminated; in harsh winters, hungry mice will not refuse the juicy bulbs.

There are few disadvantages, but they are:

1. Some bulbs do not have time to form a powerful root system before flowering, so the development of the plant occurs at the expense of the energy of the bulb. Such plants bloom poorly or do not develop buds.
2. When planting in spring, daughter bulbs are poorly formed on lilies, which significantly reduces the production of their own planting material.
3. In cold summers (when planting lilies in spring), flowering may not occur.

Choosing a site for planting lily bulbs

In order for lilies to delight with flowering, you should take a responsible approach to choosing a place for planting; lighting is of particular importance. It is ideal if the place for growing plants has good lighting, but some types of lilies can tolerate partial shade. You cannot grow varietal lilies only in the dense shade cast by tree crowns and tall buildings.

Name of the lily variety	Selecting an area based on illumination	Note
Asian	Bright lighting	Will tolerate light shading
Tubular	Bright lighting
Eastern Hybrids	Shading from bright sun
LA Hybrids	Bright lighting	Will tolerate light shading
Martagon	Shading from bright sun

Lilies are grown in one place for a long time, so the composition and fertility of the soil is of great importance. Types of lilies can be divided into two groups, in one of which the plants tolerate excess lime in the soil (L. Royal, L. Henry, L. Candidum, saranka, L. Leopardovaya). Representatives of the other group (L. long-flowered; L. tiger; L. canadensis) do not tolerate limestone soils.

Sandy, clayey, swampy, dense and poor rocky soils are not suitable for growing lilies. Plants prefer moist soil without stagnant water, so the soil should be nutritious and well-drained. When digging a flower bed, humus and sand are added for planting lilies. Per 1 m2 you can add from 5 to 8 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium sulfate. Acidic soil is not suitable for growing trumpet lilies, so chalk, lime or dolomite flour is added to these plants at the rate of up to 400 g per 1 m2. Eastern Hybrids require planting in slightly acidic soils, so turf soil and peat are added to the flowerbed.

The stems of lilies are quite tall, so it is very important to choose a place protected from the wind for planting the bulbs.

Timing for planting lilies in spring

Speaking about the timing of planting lilies in open ground in the spring, it is worth noting that this procedure cannot be delayed too much, otherwise the plants will get sick and grow weak and unstable.

The time for planting bulbs in open ground is determined depending on the weather; it is important that the soil has time to thaw and warm up well. In the middle zone, lilies are usually planted in clusters from mid to late April. In Siberia, these dates are shifted to May.

Planting lilies in the ground

If many lily bulbs are planted at one time, it is convenient to make common furrows, at the bottom of which drainage is placed from coarse sand, broken brick or small crushed stone. This layer is covered with soil and the bulbs are laid out at a distance of 20 to 40 cm (depending on the type of lilies). The depth of the furrow should be equal to three times the height of the bulb plus the amount of drainage backfill. This rule applies to all types of lilies, except L. martagon, in which the leaves are formed immediately above the bulb. This variety requires little deepening.

If only a few bulbs are planted, then individual holes are prepared for each specimen.

The planted lily bulbs are covered with soil and watered thoroughly.

In just a few weeks the plant will delight you with abundant flowering.

In the spring, hot days come for summer residents, full of work and worries. And all in order to enjoy a good harvest in summer and autumn. But, as they say, not by bread alone... Beauty around us is also necessary, and we create it ourselves with the help of flowers. Just think how many different colors there are! And they all decorate our lives, fill us with colors and create a good mood. This is worth the effort.

Lilies can be called the queen of the garden. Such delicate, fragile flowers cannot but delight, they delight the eye, they evoke an invariable desire to touch them. The variety of colors and shades allows them to blend harmoniously into almost any landscape and decorate any flower bed. White, yellow, orange, red - they are ideal for bouquets, refreshing the interior of the apartment, bringing warmth and joy to the souls of its inhabitants.

I will tell you in this article how to plant a beauty on your property, how to care for it so that it will certainly please you. Look at the lilies that grew in my garden, they actually made us happy for a long time and became the decoration of my small plot.

The very first question that arises for any gardener, whether he is a beginner or an experienced one who has not dealt with a specific species, is when is the best time to plant. For lilies, as for many other flowers, planting is important in spring or autumn. From practice, planting in the fall is a much more profitable enterprise in the future, since bulbs can be bought at good discounts by the end of the season, but at the beginning of the season the price is maximum. If you are not limited in funds, then, of course, you should please yourself with the new inhabitants of the flowerbed in the spring.

So, lilies are bulbous perennials of the Liliaceae family. This is where, perhaps, everything common to different species ends. Requirements for lighting and planting location are very individual. As experienced gardeners say: it is easier to choose a species for the specific conditions of a flower bed than to create conditions for a specific species. Therefore, if you have already chosen where to plant, study the following features: soil, lighting, protection from the wind, and then select a suitable flower. For example, it is believed that these flowers require a lighted area, however, oriental and martagon hybrids will suffer in the sun; their place is in partial shade. Preferences are usually described on the label of store-bought plants, but with breeders you just need to pay attention to the natural growing conditions or ask directly about it.

The next thing you need to decide on before the planned planting in the ground is the planting material. The bulb must be externally healthy, without mechanical damage. Elastic and without signs of rotting. And then you should pay attention to the condition of the sprout or its absence. In winter, lilies hibernate, so if you buy absolutely healthy planting material, then there should be no sprouts on the bulb during the period from the end of flowering (late summer-autumn) to April-May. The sprout in this case is an indicator of a failed regime. This does not mean that the flower will definitely die, but it does mean that it will be necessary to wait until it returns to normal, and therefore there may not be a planned summer flowering.

There is a place, there is material... good luck! What to remember when planting in spring:

• you can plant a plant only when you are sure that there will be no night frosts,
• when the ground warms up to a depth sufficient for planting,
• when there are conditions for timely watering.

For autumn planting:

• the soil must not be frozen,
• the desired variety should already have flowered naturally.
• The planting of flowering plants should also be checked against the lunar calendar, then the efforts will definitely not be in vain. Unfavorable days in April and May are 5 and 19. Favorable days in April: 6-8, 20-26, 29, 30. In May: 6-8, 14-17, 23, 31.

Preparing the site and soil for planting

As already noted, the place for the lily should be selected based on the requirements of the species, which can be found on the packaging. It should be free of drafts, but with normal air circulation.

The neighborhood is also important. These delicate flowers go well with peonies, delphinium, alyssum and astilbe. Fern and juniper are no less suitable neighbors, but the combination with phlox may be too bright for the eye. But nevertheless, if you like a bright environment, you can plant them together.

They may also seem capricious in their requirements for the soil. However, these requirements are quite logical:

• nutritional value
• neutrality
• looseness
• good drainage

If the soil is too dense, the bulb may rot, and if the soil is too light, sandy, there simply won’t be enough moisture for the plant to develop normally.

If your site basically does not meet the requirements, then preparation will be necessary. What you can do:

• To enrich the soil with nutrients, you can use compost or humus when digging; superphosphate and potassium sulfate (100g/50g per square meter); complex fertilizer such as Nitroammofoski.
• Dense soil can be diluted with river sand and peat (1 bucket of these substances per square meter).
• Too light and sandy soil can be corrected with peat (1 bucket per square meter).
• Low acidity is corrected with wood ash or dolomite flour (1 cup / 200 grams per square meter).

Of course, it is worth adding that no living creatures take out all kinds of garbage in the neighborhood, be it people or green flowerbed inhabitants. Stones, rhizomes and sticks should be removed. And dig up the area for planting.

The first most important piece of advice is – YOU WILL DEFINITELY SUCCEED IT, DON’T BE AFRAID. A positive attitude will help you concentrate and get great results.

As for the landing itself:

1. Carefully study the requirements of the species, carefully select a place, prepare it as described in the previous paragraph.
2. Dig planting holes. There is a sufficient distance of 20-30 centimeters between the holes. But you need to deepen the bulb to three times its height. If you have a bulb 4 centimeters high, then the hole should be 12.
3. If you are planting a tall variety, then install a support for the future plant next to the hole so that it is not broken by the wind. When installing a support after the fact, there is a possibility of damaging the bulb itself and thus destroying the plant.
4. When digging a hole, it is worth putting a drainage layer (expanded clay, brick, etc.) on the bottom, fertile soil on top, and sand as the last layer.
5. The onion is placed flat on the sand, bottom down.
6. After planting, it is necessary to water the hole generously. If the soil settles, it is necessary to fill it up to the previous level.

All these tips seem complicated only at first; in practice, it all takes very little time, but the result will be gorgeous.

Video on how to plant lilies in open ground in spring

Caring for lilies in spring and preparing for winter

Care is not inherently difficult. The main thing is not to let them rot, that is, to avoid excess moisture on the bulb.

As for spring, first of all, the bulbs need to be opened in time so that under the warm layer they do not sprout ahead of time. And when they sprout, be sure to feed them with nitrogen fertilizer and loosen them. For example, saltpeter or Nitroammophoska. You can use rotted manure.

Important: fresh manure should not be used under any circumstances. It can burn.

Intermediate feeding is carried out after the emergence of seedlings before the formation of buds. This fertilizing can be done with natural compost fertilizer.

When preparing for wintering for these purposes, the entire above-ground part of the lilies is carefully twisted out. You can’t just cut it so that the cutting remains. The dried trunk turns into a tube through which rain and snow pour directly onto the bulb. The funnel formed from the stem must be tightly covered with earth. If winters in your region are very cold, the plants should be covered with leaves or mulch.

How to feed lilies for lush flowering in the garden

With proper wintering and timely spring care, nothing other than timely feeding will be required. I'll tell you how and what to feed lilies.

The first important feeding is necessary during the budding period, that is, as soon as you see tiny buds, it’s time. It is thanks to her that the buds receive sufficient nutrition and grow large and strong. And subsequently large and bright flowers appear from them. Mineral fertilizers should be added to the soil. If you are still new to gardening, I recommend using ready-made mineral fertilizers and diluting them according to the label. If you decide to try diluting the fertilizer yourself, then take a tablespoon of saltpeter or nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is poured onto the plants at the rate of 1 liter per bush.

It is important to remember that a whole liter will only be needed for an adult lush bush. If you have a young plant, then the dose should be reduced by half.

You can use fermented mullein solution. For 10 liters of water - 1 liter of solution. Fertilizer is used in the same way: 1 liter per adult root. Lilies also respond well to feeding with wood ash. However, it is better to carry out such fertilizing not often and in small quantities.

Important: before fertilizing, the plants must be watered and loosened so as not to burn the roots and bulbs.

The frequency of feeding is from 1 to 3 times a month. Of course, if you don’t feed them, they will still bloom and won’t go anywhere, but the quality of such flowering may not please you. Plants are like children, they love care and attention.

Protecting lilies from diseases and pests

Like any garden resident, lilies are exposed to various dangers. In this part I will tell you what the most common diseases are and how to deal with them.

But, as you know, it is easier to prevent than to deal with the consequences, so professionals advise in the spring to water the soil with this solution: mix well 1 liter of warm water, 1 tablespoon of soda, 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate, 1 tablespoon of ammonia, and then thin pour in a stream into 9 liters of water. This measure will help prevent diseases.

The most common diseases of lilies are:

1. Gray rot. This fungal disease begins to manifest itself if microventilation is impaired. Moisture stagnates, the evaporation of which is prevented by the lack of sufficient light and heat, the presence of weeds in the flowerbed, and thickening of plantings. The sore can be recognized by characteristic spots on the base of the stem and leaves, which become covered with mold in damp weather. Serious measures are needed to combat rot. The affected parts of the plant are removed as much as possible, and the bushes are sprayed with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or foundation (approximately 25 grams per 10 liters of water). In autumn, in preparation for wintering, the affected stems are removed and burned, since the pathogen overwinters on the above-ground parts of plants. To prevent reappearance in the spring, it is necessary to treat the plants with copper oxychloride (25 grams per 5 liters) with the addition of shampoo or soap.
2. Fusarium. This insidious disease eats the victim from the root. As a rule, fungal spores are either in the soil or get there with infected planting material. Externally, the presence of the disease can be determined by yellowed and dried lower leaves. Soil disease can be prevented only by following the norms of watering and fertilizing. But it’s up to the gardener to prevent the fungus from getting from the planting material. All suspicious scales from the bulb are removed before planting. And the bulb itself is soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
3. Mosaic. Refers to viral diseases. Externally recognized by white spots on the leaves and curvature of the stems and buds. Sick plants must be removed from the site. However, preventative measures will help protect the flowers. The disease is transmitted by sucking insects, so timely control of them will help protect the flowerbed. In addition, the infection can be spread through the sap of an infected plant, which is why the pruning shears are constantly disinfected when pruning.

The most dangerous pests for lilies include:

1. Red lily beetle. This problem is increasingly spreading with the import of infected planting material. Already in April, it is necessary to carefully examine the plants and take measures to eradicate the problem or take preventive measures. Externally, the lily beetle resembles a fireman's beetle, and preventive measures include its mechanical elimination. If time is lost and larvae appear, then the problem is solved by treating the plants with products against the Colorado potato beetle. For example, an actara, a confidor or a sonnet.
2. Aphids. The danger of this pest is not only in eating plants, but also in transmitting viral diseases. Treatment can be done with intra-vir (1t per 10 liters of water) or fufanon (15 ml per 10 liters of water).
3. Mice. These rodents destroy plant bulbs. Traps with bait placed in landing areas are suitable for mice.

Propagation of lilies by seeds and scales

Every year new varieties of these beautiful flowers appear. And their prices also skyrocket every year. So what about those who absolutely want a new variety and a bigger one? And it's very simple. You need to purchase just one bulb and try propagation by scales.

As practice has shown, a capricious plant is not at all such when trying to propagate it. To do this, the scales were carefully separated from the bulb and planted in a mixture of peat and vermiculite. Almost every scale formed children, which could already be planted in the ground. Don't be afraid to experiment with this method.

Propagation by seeds is one of the most productive methods. In addition, the seeds do not transfer diseases from the mother plant. Seeds need to be fresh, as over time they lose their viability. To collect them, select a healthy stem, which is cut before the onset of frost. And then left to dry on paper.

The collected material can be planted directly into the ground or into seedlings.

Reproduction of lilies by bulbs (video)

Another method of reproduction is by bulbs. Airy bulbs form between the stem and leaves; they are collected at the end of flowering. They are planted in pots and then planted in the ground in the spring. For clarity, watch the video; it tells in great detail about this method of propagating lilies.

How to propagate lilies after flowering using cuttings from a bouquet

And the last way to propagate is by cuttings or leaves. This way you can get a new root from your own lilies or from those presented in a bouquet. Although from the latter the probability of rooting of the cuttings is comparatively lower. But why not try? Moreover, there is little trick in this process. So, to obtain planting material you need:

1. Choose a strong, healthy plant. Or use bouquet as quickly as possible.
2. Using sharp scissors, cut medium large leaves from the stem.
3. Plant the leaves in a greenhouse with nutritious soil.
4. Wait for rooting. As a rule, out of 5 leaves from a bouquet, 1-2 take root, from a garden plant 3-4. This depends on the fact that flowers for bouquets are grown using hormones and stimulants, which cannot but affect their reproduction.
5. The rooted leaf should be planted in an individual greenhouse and wait for the formation of new leaves from the tiny bulb.

Healthy and strong flowers are the pride of a gardener. But this is not the result of a series of accidents, it is the result of rather painstaking work. I hope the tips in the article will help you. Let your flowers delight you and your guests.

Popular among gardeners, the delicate, beautiful and fragrant lily is a herbaceous bulbous plant from the Liliaceae family. A perennial flowering plant consists of a single-tiered root system and bulb, a tall straight stem reaching one and a half meters in height, small-sized leaf plates with a glossy surface and racemose inflorescences of sixteen to thirty bell-shaped or funnel-shaped buds of white, pink, red, lilac, yellow and orange shades.

The flowering period lasts fifteen to twenty days. A notable feature of lilies is their variety of colors and unique tart aroma.

In order for these flowers to become a real decoration of the garden and the pride of the gardener, it is necessary to create certain conditions for them - regular watering and fertilizing, timely pruning and weed control, protection from pests and diseases. With proper planting and care, the lily will show all its sophistication and grace. Beginners and persistent flower lovers can easily cope with these procedures. The future flowering of the royal perennial depends entirely on hard work and a reverent attitude towards plants.

Variety Stargazer

Lily can be proud of its huge family of hundreds of species and thousands of varieties, from which you can choose flowers by color, climatic preferences, growing conditions, shape, size of buds and direction of petals, resistance to diseases and pests, flowering time and even by aroma.

For convenience, all specimens of this royal flower were divided into groups according to their origin.

Selecting a location

The place for planting and growing lilies must be selected carefully, as it will play a major role in the further development of the plants. When choosing, it is recommended to take into account the type and variety of crop.

• Lilies with buds of white and light colors feel better in open sunny areas with plenty of light, warmth and the absence of drafts, while dark and bright flowers, rich in color, prefer to grow in semi-shaded or slightly shaded places.
• Tall varieties are recommended to be planted near bushes or trees, buildings or fences. They will provide flowers with reliable natural protection from strong gusts of wind, which can damage tall flower stalks.

When choosing bulbs in a specialized store, first of all you should pay attention to the type of plant, because each of them has its own requirements for planting and care. Having decided on the type and variety, you can proceed to inspecting the planting material.

High-quality bulbs have their own characteristics:

• absence of any damage or rot on the surface;
• the presence of dense scales without damage (spots and cracks) and signs of disease;
• the presence of wet roots about five centimeters long;
• size in diameter - at least three centimeters.

If planting material is purchased long before planting, it is very important to create the right conditions for their storage:

• container with sawdust, moss or peat;
• moderate humidity in the storage area;
• good ventilation;
• air temperature - five to ten degrees Celsius.

Before planting, the bulbs are sorted by size and quality, cleaned of dried scales, dried roots are removed and treated with special solutions. First, they are soaked for fifteen minutes in a manganese solution, washed, and then dipped in a Fitosporin solution for thirty minutes and allowed to dry.

Important! In case of premature germination of the bulbs, it is recommended to plant them as seedlings in individual flower pots.

If there are doubts about the quality and health of the soil in the selected area, you should definitely treat it with disinfectants. The optimal soil composition for lilies: turf or garden soil, coarse sand, peat, rotted humus and wood ash. Soil requirements: neutral in composition, loose, nutritious, drained (using river pebbles or gravel), with good moisture passage (moderately moist), healthy.

Preparing the soil for planting includes the following activities:

• deep digging of the top layer of soil (thirty-five to forty centimeters);
• formation of a drainage layer;
• applying fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus;
• reducing high acidity (leaching) using chalk or wood ash;
• abundant moisture of the area (gradual).

In prepared planting holes with a depth of ten to twenty centimeters, depending on the size of the bulbs and the type of lilies, drainage material about five centimeters thick is first poured, then a three-centimeter layer of sand, and only then a fertile soil mixture.

How to plant lilies in open ground correctly

Planting dates (spring and autumn)

Depending on the local climate, lily bulbs can be planted in early spring or mid-autumn. The main thing is that there is no danger of soil freezing in the area after planting (in autumn).

For example, in southern latitudes October is considered the most favorable month for this procedure. But most species and varieties require spring conditions. Late flowering plants can be planted in the spring in warm climates, but only in the fall in cold climates. Due to the short summer, they simply will not have time to bloom before the cold weather arrives. In general, all these nuances should be taken into account when choosing a variety and when purchasing planting material.

Benefits of spring planting:

• It is better to store the bulbs collected in the fall in special conditions until spring, rather than having them freeze and get wet in the ground after autumn planting.
• The absence of children on the bulbs can be compensated for by the free purchase of any planting material throughout the year.
• All the necessary natural conditions are available for full growth and rapid flowering.

Planting technology and features

Bulbs are placed in planting holes filled with substrate, sprinkled with a small layer of sand, and then filled to the top with nutritious soil. After this, carry out the first abundant watering and apply mulching material.

Since flower bushes grow very quickly, the distance between plantings should be at least thirty to forty centimeters.

Bulbs of low-growing varieties are buried eight to ten centimeters into the ground, and tall ones - ten to twenty centimeters (depending on the size of the planting material).

Caring for lilies consists of several mandatory procedures - watering and fertilizing, loosening and weeding, pruning and replanting, propagation and preparation for winter, disease and pest control and preventive measures.

Watering requirements

Watering is very often combined with two more procedures - adding nutrients to the soil and preventive treatment of the soil against diseases and pests.

The irrigation regime must meet two important requirements - moderation and regularity. Excess water causes the development of rot in the root part, while lack of moisture negatively affects the decorative effect of the entire plant, the shape and size of the buds, and the abundance of flowering. To maintain moderate moisture in the soil, it is recommended to mulch it. Mulch will prevent drying out and will save the area from the appearance of weeds, and therefore from weeding.

On especially hot summer days, when the thermometer rises above twenty-seven to thirty degrees, you can water lilies only early in the morning or in the evening - after sunset. During the rainy season, watering may not be carried out.

Attention! Irrigation water should not fall on the leaves. In this regard, many experienced gardeners advise using the drip irrigation method.

Application of fertilizers and fertilizers

It is necessary to feed lilies regularly, regardless of when they were planted - in spring or autumn. This will require various nutrient mixtures or organic solutions containing nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other useful microelements and substances for application by root and foliar methods.

During the season, a minimum of three to four feedings will be required at different stages of crop development.. The dosage when preparing solutions, as well as when applying per square meter, must be strictly observed. Excess fertilizer will only cause harm.

We offer several options for feeding and fertilizers.

• Ash infusion can be used as a top dressing and as a preventative against mold and pests five to six times a season.
• Nitrogen fertilizers, urea, and superphosphate are used at the initial stage of lily development in the spring to stimulate growth.
• A solution of ten liters of water, superphosphate (thirty grams), ammonium nitrate (forty grams) is used as foliar feeding in the spring, when the height of the sprouts reaches ten to fifteen centimeters.
• During the formation of buds For root feeding, a composition of ten liters of a solution of mullein, superphosphate and potassium sulfate (thirty grams of each) is used.
• Before flowering, you need to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at the root.
• At the very beginning of flowering We recommend foliar feeding with ten liters of a solution of mullein, superphosphate (about forty grams) and potassium fertilizer (fifteen grams).
• After flowering ends You can apply complex mineral fertilizers containing calcium, phosphorus, and potassium.

How to feed lilies for lush flowering - video

Trimming

For decorative purposes, it is worth regularly removing faded buds throughout the season. In addition, this will allow perennials not to waste their energy on producing seeds. Let them better direct their unspent energy to new buds and lush flowering.

When cutting flowers for bouquets, it is recommended to leave the stem about fifteen centimeters high. This will help the plants strengthen their roots. .

You should not cut off living and vigorous leaves, as they are a source of energy and nutrients for the bulb. Only dried and wilted, damaged and infected leaf blades can be removed.

Cutting the stem to the soil level is carried out only in the autumn.

Diseases and pests

• To protect the bulbs from mice during autumn planting, it is recommended to place the planting material in a hole in a special metal mesh.
• To protect against harmful insects, throughout the spring and summer season, the soil in the flower garden is treated and the plants are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.
• You can get rid of the onion leaf beetle and root mite by spraying with a solution of one bucket of water, copper sulfate, baking soda and ammonia (one tablespoon each).

Features of transplantation

Most often, replanting is combined with dividing the bush. In the fifth year of life, the flowering of lilies noticeably decreases, and sometimes stops altogether. This is the basis for removing the plant from the soil and separating the daughter bulbs.

After watering, carefully dig up the lily using a garden tool, wash the root part with water, separate the young shoots and place them in a pink manganese solution for disinfection. After trimming the long roots to eight to ten centimeters, the flowers are planted in a new place.

Reference! Since replanting is a serious stress for a lily, it is not recommended to do it more often than once every four to five years.

Preparing for winter

Types and varieties of lilies with early flowering tolerate winter well. Therefore, in the fall, watering is gradually reduced, then the stem is cut to the surface of the soil and a cover is built from sawdust or fallen leaves.

It is recommended to dig up the bulbs of late-flowering lilies and place them for storage in a cool room (basement or cellar) with good ventilation or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, after packing them in a bag with peat. They will not survive cold winter conditions outdoors.

Reproduction by scales

When planting a flower bed or flower garden, it is important to choose the “right” neighbors for the lilies. In terms of neighborhood, these are universal crops, because they get along well with many representatives of the flora. Lilies feel comfortable in the company of peonies, delphiniums, roses and carnations. They are in harmony with ferns and junipers, phlox and crocuses, daffodils and irises. Astilbe, euonymus and rhododendron will be a good neighbor for the lily.

Tips for growing lilies from an experienced gardener - video

Growing different types of lilies is a wonderful experience in floriculture for both beginners and professionals, because the variety of varieties allows you to constantly improve and increase your knowledge.

Lily (lat. Lilium)- a genus of plants in the Liliaceae family, which are perennial herbs growing from bulbs. The genus of lilies in nature includes about 80 species, which in cultivation gave birth to many varieties and hybrids. Lilies grow in Asia, Europe and North America. It is said that in ancient Gaulish “li-li” means “white-white,” and although species with both pinkish and yellowish flowers are found in nature, the flower most likely received its name from a species known as the “snow-white lily.” There are many legends associated with the lily: the ancient Greeks said that the white flowers of the lily are drops of the milk of Hera, the wife of Zeus; a Jewish legend tells that of all the flowers of paradise, after the fall of Eve, only the lily retained purity and purity; In Christian culture, the white lily is a symbol of the Mother of God.

Very often the lily flower is used in heraldry. Poets and writers also paid attention to this flower. But besides beauty, lilies also have unique healing properties: the ancient Roman military doctor Dioscorides, in his treatise “On Medicines,” told his contemporaries and descendants that white and forest lilies heal wounds, treat bruises, burns and abrasions, help in the treatment of heart diseases and relieve toothache.

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Planting and caring for lilies

• Landing: early autumn (late September or early October). Snow white lily is planted in August. In spring, only late-flowering species and varieties can be planted.
• Bloom: summer and autumn.
• Excavation: before boarding.
• Storage: Bulbs dug up in the fall are stored in a moderately dry, well-ventilated room at low above-zero temperatures.
• Lighting: depending on the type - bright sunlight or partial shade.
• Soil: loose, fertile, well moistened and drained.
• Watering: moderate and regular, abundant in the first half of summer and after flowering.
• Feeding: three times per season: 1st - in the snow, even before the shoots appear, 2nd - during budding, 3rd - after flowering.
• Reproduction: usually vegetatively: by dividing nests, scales, bulbs, stem, and sometimes leaf cuttings. Seed propagation is possible.
• Pests: lily beetles and their larvae, lily flies, spider mites, thrips, wireworms, beetles, mole crickets and rodents.
• Diseases: onion rot (fusarium), wet (or bacterial) rot, brown spot, gray rot, cercospora, anthracnose, rhizoctonia, phytium, blue mold, penicillosis, rust, viral mosaic (cucumber and tobacco), tulip variegation, rosette.

Read more about growing lilies below.

Lily flower - description

The lily plant is a bulbous perennial. The size of the bulbs can be tiny - 1 cm in diameter, or they can be more than large - up to 30 cm in diameter. They are spherical or ovoid in shape, the scales are attached to the bottom, where the point of root growth is located, on the side opposite to the bottom the scales do not close, so the lily bulbs look loose. The stem of lilies is straight, leafy, with few branches at the top, depending on the species and variety, from 15 to 250 cm. In some species, lily leaves are wrapped in a spiral on the stem, while in other species they create a basal rosette.

Lily flowers are collected in cylindrical, cone-shaped or umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 8-16 flowers, but some varieties have up to 30 flowers in the inflorescence, which bloom gradually from the lower to the upper. Flowers live from 3 to 9 days. In the center of the flower there are a pistil and 6 stamens with large anthers, around which there are 6 petals (more in double varieties). Flower shapes are varied - star-shaped, turban-shaped, funnel-shaped, tubular, flat, cup-shaped, bell-shaped... Often the size of the flower depends on the shape: turban-shaped lilies reach a diameter of 5-10 cm and are very similar to Chinese lanterns; funnel-shaped flowers are only 4 cm in diameter, while 15 cm in length; Flat-shaped flowers can be up to 25 cm in diameter!

The color of the petals is also strikingly diverse: snow-white, orange, apricot, soft pink, bright scarlet, dark purple, two-colored, with iridescence, with spots, strokes or borders... there are not only blue lilies.

The fruits of lilies are long capsules that ripen in October-November, containing flat seeds.

Growing lilies in the garden

How to grow lilies

Since the lily grows in one place for several years and does not like transplants, you need to choose a place where the lilies will grow and bloom comfortably - a sunny area, protected from the wind. Lilies are very picky about soil: the soil must be loose, fertile and with good drainage. As for the acid-base balance, different lilies prefer different compositions. American hybrids, for example, love acidic soil, and tubular– alkaline. All other species and varieties grow well in neutral soil. About 2-3 weeks before the start of planting, dig up the soil with ash (only if you are not going to plant oriental hybrids - they love acidic soil), peat and humus, adding a little mineral fertilizer. Then level the area, tamp lightly and water.

Lily bulbs

Before purchasing bulbs, try to find out more precisely what type of lilies they belong to, because the features of their agricultural technology depend on this. When purchasing, try to choose juicy, healthy and fleshy bulbs, with not overdried scales and an intact bottom. Pay attention to the length of the roots - they should be no shorter than 5 cm. If you purchased the bulbs in the fall, then until mid-October, when you need to plant them, keep them in damp moss, sand or sawdust in a dark room with good ventilation or store them directly in factory packaging in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator.

Before planting, the bulbs are cleaned of rusty scales with brown spots, rotten or suspicious areas and wilted or too long roots are cut out, then kept for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole or in the Maxim preparation.

Planting lilies

When to plant lilies

Lilies can be planted in both spring and autumn. You can plant lilies even in summer. Planting lilies in spring avoids the risk of the bulbs getting wet and freezing in the open ground. In spring, roots grow better, so the survival rate of plants is higher, this is especially important for late-flowering lilies, such as, for example, oriental hybrids. In March, you can plant Tibetan and tiger lilies, as well as other fall-blooming varieties. Oriental, Asian and trumpet hybrids are planted as soon as the snow melts. Terry lilies are also best planted in spring at a temperature of 11 ºC.

As a preventive measure, you need to annually burn all plant remains of lilies (stems, leaves), and also divide and plant nests of bulbs at least once every three years so that the plantings do not thicken. Also, mulch the soil between lilies to prevent weeds.

Lilies after flowering

When the lilies fade, do not rush to trim the flower stalks, but it is advisable to remove the seed pods if you do not need the seeds, and the leaves and stems will “work” until they wilt, delivering nutrients to the bulbs for the growth and flowering of the lily next year. In autumn, the peduncle can be cut, but not low (10-15 cm from the surface) and diagonally.

Continue watering, if necessary, until the time comes to divide and replant the lily bulbs.

After transplanting the bulbs and the end of the heavy autumn rains, it will be enough for frost-resistant lilies to be mulched with peat or coniferous shavings, while capricious oriental hybrids would be nice to be wrapped in spruce branches and covered with plastic wrap on top of the insulation. In the spring, the film and spruce branches will need to be removed so that it does not damage the hatching sprouts, and let the peat and sawdust remain as mulch.

Storing lily bulbs

It is undesirable to leave some varieties of lilies in the ground until spring, especially if winters are frosty and snowless. Thus, bulbs of oriental hybrids, Candidum varieties or royal lilies require extraction from the soil.

The storage location for lilies must meet the following requirements:

• not be too dry so that the bulbs do not wrinkle over the winter;
• be not too wet so that the bulbs do not become moldy or germinate prematurely;
• the temperature should be moderate (not minus);
• good ventilation is necessary.

Lily bulbs purchased or removed from the ground should be slightly dried and cleared of soil. Peat is poured into a wooden box, cardboard box or bag, bulbs are placed in it, which are then sprinkled with peat again, on which another layer of bulbs is placed. When the box is two-thirds full, it is stored in the refrigerator, basement or loggia. But don’t forget to check the condition of the bulbs from time to time: if the roots are dry, sprinkle the peat with water; if, on the contrary, mold has appeared here and there, wipe the bulbs with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate.

Second storage method: Place the bulbs in a plastic bag with damp peat moss, then inflate it, tie it and place it in a dark place at room temperature. After two to three months, the bulbs form babies. Without separating the children, transplant the bulbs into peat pots so that the tip of the scale is above the surface, and take them to a cool but frost-free basement. Two weeks before planting, bring them indoors and start watering.

Types and varieties of lilies

What lily?

There are a great variety of lilies in nature and culture, and all of them are of interest to gardeners. We offer you a classification of lilies according to the latest edition of the International Register of Lilies, which describes more than 3,500 varieties.

Asiatic lily

The group under this name includes garden forms and hybrids of such lilies: tiger and David lilies, drooping and pleasant lilies, Maksimovich and dwarf lilies, monochromatic and bulbous lilies, spotted lilies and Dutch lilies. Asiatic lily and its varieties have bulbs that are small in size and white in color. These lilies are hardy, winter-hardy, completely unpretentious to growing conditions, reproduce well by children and scales, and bloom earlier than other lilies at the end of June.

Among the Asian hybrids there are dwarf varieties 20-40 cm in height, and there are also tall lilies up to one and a half meters tall. Some varieties form “bulbs” - aerial bulbs in the axils of the leaves, and for this they are called bulbous. The flowers are white, yellow, orange, cream, there are two- and three-color varieties, as well as red, dark red and almost black varieties. The lily flower is most often cup-shaped or turban-shaped, measuring from 8 to 20 cm, consisting of 6 petals, although there are several double varieties. Varieties of the Asian group:

• Lily Adeline– medium-sized yellow lilies, early variety, blooming profusely;
• Lily Blazing Dwarf– a dwarf variety that blooms early and profusely, can even be grown in pots;
• Lily Flora Pleno– double lilies, medium-sized orange flowers, tall strong stem, blooms late.

In the photo: Asiatic Lily Adeline

In the photo: Asiatic lily Flora Pleno

Martagon hybrids

Or curly hybrids, which include lilies descended from the curly lily (or martagon lily), Hanson's lily and two-row lily, Tsingtaunt lily and honey-shaped lily. There are only about a hundred varieties of this group; they are characterized by tall growth, turban-like drooping flowers of delicate shades of different colors. Among the advantages of lilies of this group are frost resistance, unpretentiousness in the choice of soil and lighting, durability, high decorativeness, resistance to viruses and good resistance to all kinds of rot. But, unfortunately, martagon hybrids have not yet gained widespread popularity in our region.

Varieties of martagon hybrids:

• Lily Manitoba Fox– tree lily 1.8-2.4 m high, multi-flowered lily with dark pink and fawn flowers and black and yellow specks;
• Lily Martagon Album- tall, multi-flowered, snow-white turban-shaped flowers with yellow stamens. Up to 50 flowers bloom at a time;
• Lily Mrs. R.O. Backhouse– pink lilies with a yellow tint, the specks on them are dark pink.

In the photo: Lilia Martagon Album

In the photo: Lily Martagon Manitoba Fox

In the photo: Lilia Martagon Mrs. R.O. Backhouse

Candidum hybrids

Garden forms that gave rise to the snow-white lily, or, as it is often called, the royal lily, crossed with the Chalcedony lily and other types of European lilies. The specimen species is the terracotta lily (Lilium x testaceum). There are very few varieties of this species, but they are all very fragrant, the flowers have the shape of a wide funnel or tubular, the color of the flowers is all shades of yellow or white. In varieties of this species, the scales of the bulbs turn into leaves that form a rosette. The disadvantage of this species is its susceptibility to fungal diseases; in addition, these hybrids do not set seeds well. Varieties:

• Apollo Lily– white lily, fragrant bells 10-12 cm in diameter, collected 9-10 pieces in a brush;
• terracotta lily (tiled, testaceum)- turban-shaped flowers of cream color.

American hybrids

Derived from crossing leopard lilies, Humboldt lilies, Canadian lilies, Columbian lilies, Bolander lilies, Parry lilies, etc. In addition to them, the group includes Bellingham hybrids and Burbank lilies - about 150 varieties in total. The flowers are varied in both shape and color. These hybrids require slightly acidic soil, abundant watering and good drainage, and do not tolerate transplantation. They bloom in July. Frost-resistant. Varieties:

• variety Shuksan– golden lily with brown spots, the tips of the petals are pink;
• variety Cherrywood- red lilies.

Long-flowered hybrids

Garden forms from long-flowered lily, Formolonga, Formosan, etc. The flowers of these hybrids are predominantly white or light shades. These lilies love warmth, so in winter they have to be well covered. In addition, they are easily infected by viruses. But they are ideal for forcing and growing at home. The best varieties:

• variety White Fox– flowers up to 12 cm in diameter, directed to the side, white with yellowish tint. The length of the tube is 16 cm, the height of the plant reaches 130 cm;
• variety White Haven– white flowers with a light green center, yellow-orange stamens.

Tubular hybrids

They come from Asian species of lilies (Henry lilies), but without participation in the selection of such species as golden, beautiful, Japanese and reddish lilies. These hybrids are frost-resistant, but love fertile soil, are not afraid of viruses and fungi, and are easily propagated by any means. These are the most common representatives of the genus in our gardens, blooming for three months until the end of September. Trumpet lilies are divided into four subgroups based on flower shape:

• flowers tubular(groups “Black Dragon”, “Golden Clarion”, “Sulfur Queen”, etc.);
• flowers cupped, or goblet-shaped, directed to the side (groups “Heart's Desire”, “New Era”, “Gwendolyn Anley”);
• flowers drooping(groups “Christmas Day”, “Golden Showers”;
• flowers star-shaped(groups “Mimosa Star”, “Mimosa Star”, “Havemeyer”).

Oriental hybrids

These are hybrids of East Asian species: reddish, beautiful, golden, Japanese and Henry lilies. Their flowers are tubular, cup-shaped, turban-shaped and flat. The oriental lily has all the advantages of the lily genus, as well as some of its disadvantages: its hybrids are difficult to grow, they reproduce poorly and are very susceptible to viral diseases and fusarium root blight. These hybrids bloom only in 5-6 years, the growth of bulbs annually is 3-5 pieces. Varieties:

• Anais Anais– white lilies with a yellow central vein, yellow-green nectaries, purple stigma, wavy petals, curled tips, stems 1.25 m high;
• Askari– a lilac-raspberry color with a yellow center and dark specks, the edge of the petals is wavy, the stem height is 105 cm;
• Barbados– large lilies (flower diameter 22 cm) dark crimson with a white border along the edge of wavy petals with curved tips, dark specks and a white throat, dark purple stigma.

In the photo: Eastern Lily Anais Anais

In the photo: Eastern Lily Askari

In the photo: Lily of the East Barbados

LA (LA) hybrids

Hybrids of long-flowered and Asian hybrids. These double hybrids are very resistant to fungal diseases, winter-hardy, have a wide palette of shades from white to dark red in all sorts of combinations, their flowers are larger, more beautiful and denser than those of the “Asians”, and the aroma is more delicate. The stems of LA hybrids are strong, but without “bulbs”. Varieties:

• Lily Brindisi– a large-flowered hybrid of pale pink color, blooms very profusely, tall;
• Lily Eulinner– large-flowered hybrid of white color with cherry specks, tall;
• Lily Freya– chameleon flower: large yellow flowers bloom first, then they become creamy white with a characteristic yellow pattern. Tall specimen.

OT (OR) hybrids, or orienpets

Results of crossing oriental and tubular hybrids. Their stems are tall, strong, the flowers are very large (up to 25 cm) in the shape of a wide cup or funnel-shaped, directed to the side or upward. The color is pink, yellow, red, orange, there are multi-colored varieties. OT-hybrid lilies are grown in floriculture farms and mainly for cutting, but breeders are actively working to develop varieties for open ground. Varieties:

• Lily Beverly Dream– a very beautiful hybrid: star-shaped, white edge, wine-red throat;
• Lily Big Brother– a very large flower (more than 25 cm) yellow-vanilla color with black stamens;
• Lily Black Beauty- turban-shaped, downward-pointing, almost black lily (red-cherry with a lilac-violet tint), a thin white border along the edge, very long stamens.

In the photo: Lily OT-hybrid Big Brother

In the photo: Lily OT-hybrid Black Beauty

And one more thing about lilies and more. In addition to the described species and their hybrids, the following hybrid groups have appeared in recent years: LO hybrids- the result of crossing long-flowered and oriental hybrids, OA hybrids- the result of crossing Oriental and Asian hybrids, LP hybrids– lilies obtained from crossing trumpet lilies with long-flowered ones, AA hybrids– from Olean lilies and Asian hybrids. And many others. It must be said that many novice gardeners believe that the Amazon lily is one of the varieties of lilies, but in fact it is a eucharis flower, also a bulbous plant, only it belongs to the amaryllis family. As for such a curiosity as the black lily, there are many varieties of lilies with very dark petals in red, purple and brown shades, but the flower that is popularly called so is actually “takka”, or “bat”, or “ devil's flower,” and it belongs to the tacaceae family (Tassaseae).

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