How to plant lilies in open ground. Autumn and spring planting of lily bulbs. Garden lily flowers - planting and care, propagation When to plant a lily in the ground

Lilies are an outlet for gardeners. Hardy, unpretentious, winter-hardy, reproduce well (either by children, or by bulbs and even scales), height for every taste - from dwarf varieties to one and a half meter giants. They grow in one place for a long time. Colors of any shade - yellow, burgundy, white, even green! Interesting varieties: two and three colors. Well, how can you pass by and not be carried away by such beauty! That is why the most treasured corner of my garden with loose, fertile soil is given to lilies.

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My lilies love a sunny place. However, there are varieties that prefer partial shade. Attitudes towards soil acidity vary, so you can choose lilies that would be suitable specifically for your site. Thus, American and oriental hybrids love slightly acidic or acidic soil, while tubular hybrids love alkaline soil. But still, most species and varieties prefer neutral soil.

When buying lilies, I always pay attention to the fact that the bulbs are healthy, dense, and without damage. Lilies can be planted in spring, autumn and even summer.

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I prepare the soil for planting thoroughly, two weeks in advance. I dig up the soil, add humus, compost, a mixture of mineral fertilizers - about 30 grams per 1 square meter. Mix thoroughly. Without fail, in each hole I make a drainage cushion of sand and add a handful of ash. I put it in the sand. I add a layer of nutritious soil on top. I water and mulch with straw or dry grass.

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The timing of planting in spring depends on the variety. Some hybrids are planted as soon as the snow cover melts in March, the most heat-loving ones when the air warms up to +10°C and above, but mostly in the second half of April.

The depth of planting the bulbs in the soil varies and also depends on the variety, so once again I carefully study the information on the label. Typically, they are planted at a depth three times their height. In sandy soil - deeper, in heavy soil - closer to the surface. The advantages of deep planting are that in summer the bulb will be provided with more moisture, in winter it will withstand frost more easily, and in spring deep planting will protect it from frost. Deep planting also promotes the formation of more baby bulbs and strengthens the root system.

I plant them at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

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Planting in autumn.

If the lily plantings have grown too dense, they have to be separated and planted. Closer to autumn, lilies fade, after some time you can work with them. I carefully dig it up so as not to damage the roots, shake it off the ground, separate the children, trim the roots a little, but not completely! I plant both children and bulbs in well-fertilized nutritious soil, just like in the spring - in sand and holes. I definitely mulch the planting. Some gardeners treat the bulbs with disinfectants after digging. I do without this procedure, because I am confident in my seed material that the bulbs are healthy and without damage.

Caring for lily plantings is not difficult. If you water the plant in time, weed it, loosen the soil and feed it, then your plot will turn into a paradise of blooming luxurious plants that can easily “break” the heart of any beauty connoisseur.

Lilies are very attractive and delicate flowers. They stand out for their wide variety of varieties. Different varieties, in turn, require individual characteristics of maintenance. During the planting process, it is important to take into account all the nuances and avoid mistakes so that the noble flowers take root well and delight the owners of the garden plot with their splendor for a long time.

Deadlines

Gardeners usually choose the period for planting ornamental plants in open ground based on their personal capabilities and free time. Lilies can be planted in spring and autumn. But still, the most favorable time for bulbs purchased from local gardeners is in the autumn season. The optimal timing in the conditions of central Russia is the end of August - beginning of October.

Planting at this time allows the root system to better strengthen and adapt to the upcoming growth of the plant. Planting at a later time will not allow the flowers to take root well, and the plant may die.

In the southern regions of the country, lilies can be planted from late September to mid-November.

If the temperature drops significantly or the first frost appears, the planted bulbs should be covered.

Subsequently, after the end of winter, even a possible cold snap after a series of warm spring days will not frighten lilies planted in the fall.

Specialized flower shops most often receive planting material from Holland. It is worth taking into account the difference in climate and the fact that suppliers dig up bulbs for sale in the fall and then process them - drying and cooling. They arrive on the shelves of Russian stores only six months later - in the spring - and therefore they need to be planted in the next month after purchase.

The best time for spring planting is the end of April and May, when the soil has finally warmed up and there are no frosts on the soil. In case of unstable weather, planting in the summer in the first ten days of June is permissible.

Requirements for place and soil A difficult point in breeding lilies is the observance of certain conditions for different species.

They have different requirements for terrain, lighting, protection from wind and soil.

Lighting

Lilies should not be planted in low or wet areas. It is more comfortable for them to grow at higher elevations, where snow melts faster and moisture does not linger.

Most garden lilies prefer open areas where the sun easily penetrates.

Only varieties of oriental and martagon hybrids feel good in the shade. Asian varieties are unpretentious to lighting - they can delight with their flowering anywhere in the garden area.

To plant lilies, you need to choose places protected from strong draft winds, since their petals and stems are not stable.

The soil Lilies can grow in one place for about 5 years, so it is better to prepare the soil for planting thoroughly and in advance.

Lilies do not tolerate poor, heavy, clayey and rocky soils.

For most hybrid varieties, the soil should be loose and mixed with sand, as it is an important component of their growth. If coniferous trees grow on the site or in its vicinity, then you can add their fallen needles to the mixture, as it increases the acidity of the soil. The addition of peat is welcome.

For tubular and species varieties of lilies, acidic soil, on the contrary, is undesirable. Neutral soil with the addition of ash is suitable for them.

Leopard varieties and candidums love slightly alkaline soil with a small admixture of lime.

If the composition of the soil on the site is in doubt, then it is better to mix it with ash and a small amount of sand for planting lilies. This composition will be safe.

How to plant correctly?

Lilies of any variety look very beautiful on the site. In order for them to delight you with their flowering for many years, you must follow the planting technology.

If the planting material was purchased in the fall or prepared independently, but for some reason was not planted, then it should be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf until spring.

Bulbs with sprouts

If sprouts form on the bulbs, they can no longer be stored without planting. They need to be planted in pots for indoor flowers or transparent containers, after making small holes in them to allow air to enter. Transparent containers are good because they allow you to better observe the development of the root system. For pot planting, commercial soil for lily species or universal soil is suitable.

There is no need to bury the onion and sprout deeply. According to the rules, it must be planted so that the top of the sprout is level with the ground. If the sprout has hatched recently and is very small, then its tip should be left on the surface without covering it with soil.

Pots or containers with planted lily bulbs should be placed in a cool but well-lit area.

Window sills or shelves near windows are quite suitable for them. In darkened rooms, when there is little light, you can additionally use a special ultraviolet lamp.

Watering is done infrequently, once a week is enough. The plant does not need fertilizing during this period. The bulbs are kept in pots until spring, and then planted in garden beds.

In open ground

Before planting, lily bulbs purchased in the spring can be stored in cool places where the temperature is around 0°C, in plastic bags with small holes for air flow. Before planting, the bulbs need to be carefully checked, loosely fitting scales and wilted roots should be removed.

To avoid the entry of pathogenic bacteria, it is recommended to rinse them in clean water and immerse them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes.

It should be planted in previously prepared soil. It is necessary to dig up the area, add and mix the additives necessary for a particular type of lily, and create a flower bed about 20 cm high. If the sprout has grown more than 15 cm, then it can be placed in the hole with a slight side slope so that one side is closer to the ground, and the sprout itself does not stick out very much above its surface. This method will protect tender shoots from frost. In two weeks, the sprouts will again take an upright position, and they will no longer be afraid of spring temperature changes.

Let us list the main stages of planting.

Preparation of planting holes. When digging them up, you need to focus on the description of the variety and the size of the bulb. The depth of the grooves should correspond in height to 3 bulbs placed on top of each other - approximately 8-12 cm. The distance between them for low-growing varieties should be 15-20 cm, for tall representatives - 20-30 cm.
Planting bulbs. Place a small layer of small drainage stones or sand at the bottom of each hole. If possible, you can add sphagnum moss, as it has bactericidal properties and will protect the plant from rotting and other diseases. Place the onion on this layer and carefully straighten the roots, then pour sand on top again. It is needed to absorb moisture.
Sprinkle the bulbs well with soil and close the holes.(except for those in which specimens with grown sprouts are planted), you can add a little peat and water generously.

Aftercare

Lilies are considered capricious plants, but caring for them is not difficult. If the necessary conditions for their development and growth are observed, they retain their decorative properties for a long time, are not susceptible to disease and age slowly.

When planting in autumn, they are watered only in dry weather and no rain. There is no need to worry about the vulnerability of the plant to pests, since they are absolutely not interested in it until shoots appear. There is no need to fertilize lilies until spring.

Before the onset of cold weather, the bed can be covered with dry leaves or branches. The shelter will protect not only from frost, but also from the penetration of snails or slugs.

In the spring and summer, you need to carefully check that the soil of the plants is moderately moist. Lilies cannot tolerate excessive dampness; it is destructive for them.

In the absence of rain, watering should be carried out once a week, pouring water at the root. The optimal time for watering lilies is the first half of the day until 15.00; by night the soil should dry out.

Lilies of the first year of planting rarely bloom, as they need time to gain strength. If gardeners have a great desire to see flowering plants in the first summer, then the flowers need to be fed more often. You can adhere to the following fertilizer application schedule:

calcium nitrate - 2 times in the spring, apply the second fertilizing 20 days after the first;
fertilizers with phosphorus - a month after adding potassium, and then can be added approximately once every 10 days until buds form;
potassium magnesia is added when buds appear every 2 weeks and stopped 1 week before flowering;
Potassium monophosphate - applied 2 times after the plant has flowered.

Fertilizers must be applied in liquid form in accordance with the attached instructions.

Cutting

Lilies look great in bouquets, but you need to cut them correctly:

you cannot cut the peduncle very low - this has a negative effect on the subsequent ripening of the bulbs; it is advisable to leave most of the stem in the flowerbed;
the cut site must be treated with ash and a small drop of medical glue applied so that it heals faster and does not rot in rainy weather

After flowering

Wilted flowers must be removed so that seed pods do not form.

In autumn, when yellow pigment appears on all leaves, you need to cut off the stems of lilies at a height of 12-15 cm from the ground. In the spring, these old stems will fall off on their own, or they can be pulled out without any effort.

Shelter for the winter

Not only bulbs planted in autumn, but also adult plants need insulation for the winter. After cutting the stems, they need to be covered.

The best material for insulation would be fallen leaves of apple or pear trees; covering with spruce branches and peat is acceptable. These layers can be covered with plastic wrap on top and secured with stones.

In spring, the film and spruce branches are removed, and peat or foliage can be left as fertilizer under the roots of the plants.

Transfer

Experienced gardeners know that plants require replanting after a certain time. Those who have recently become interested in growing flowers often doubt the timing of optimal transplantation and its feasibility in general. Sometimes it is very difficult to decide on this process if visually it seems that the plant is quite comfortable.

Lilies, like most plants, need this procedure. The meaning of replanting is based on the fact that the plant takes nutrients from the soil. Each culture is content with its own specific set. And if the same type of plant grows in the same place for a long period, then the soil fertility gradually deteriorates, and the eco-balance of the soil changes. As a result, without replanting, the stems and leaves of the lily may not stop growing, but the flowers will become smaller and paler over the years, and their brightness will disappear.

In one place without transplantation, different varieties of lilies can grow safely and give their flowers from 2 to 10 years. Some types of lilies (narrow-leaved, umbrella, monochromatic) tend to grow very quickly. If in place of a dying peduncle more than two shoots appear annually to replace it, then the plant should be replanted after 2-3 years.

It is advisable to replant Asian hybrids after 4 years. Lilies of the Candidum class feel good in one place for 5 years. Curly lily and the Shovitz variety take root very poorly, so it is better to replant them after 6-7 years. Less often than all, after 9-10 years, martagon and American varieties of hybrids require transplantation.

Transplantation should be done when the plant is dormant, that is, about a month after it has flowered.

The only exceptions are varieties of oriental hybrids, since they bloom later and it is better to postpone replanting to the spring. The bulbs can be dug up on the eve of frost and stored in a cool place until spring.

The discovery of brown spots on the stem or leaves of a lily indicates that it is uncomfortable, its supply of nutrients has been exhausted, and it is better to replant it rather than waste time on additional feeding. Usually, when digging up such a specimen, you can notice damage to the bulb due to rot. If the rot is superficial and can be easily removed, then the bulb, after treatment with a fungicide, can be transplanted to another location on the site or left for storage until spring replanting.

When replanting, it is important to adhere to the same rules as when planting lilies for the first time:
pre-prepared fertile soil in accordance with the requirements of the variety;
well-lit place;

absence of gusty winds.

Proper planting technology and good flower care will preserve the bulbs and help their further growth in the spring. Growing lilies and caring for bushes is not so difficult, the main thing is to take into account all the nuances described above.

Compatibility with other plants

When designing a large flower bed with different plants, you should correctly take into account the blooming period of the flowers. Lilies need to be given a prominent place, but so that after their flowering ends the empty stems are not noticeable. It is preferable not to the foreground at the edge of the flowerbed, but to the middle central part of the composition. It is important to correlate the height of lilies with other companions. They will look graceful only if other plants block no more than half of its flower stalks when viewed from any angle of the flower bed.

In the foreground of the group composition, perennials will look impressive, as they tend to retain their decorative properties throughout the entire summer season. These include: astilbe, hosta, hyssop. You can arrange several group plantings of lilies by planting phloxes with small inflorescences, asters, peonies or echinacea between them.

Bluebells, medium-sized varieties of marigolds, heuchera, alyssum, garden carnation, and spurge can create a wonderful background for blooming lilies.

Lilies will look graceful against the background:

vertical gardening of a house wall, fence or gazebo;
medium-sized juniper bushes, thuja;
tall ornamental grasses - fern, molinia, pennisetum.

If you plan to create a multi-tiered flower bed only from lilies, then it is better to choose varieties that belong to their different groups. Plant low-growing varieties on the bottom plan, as they bloom a little earlier. Plant the central place with medium-sized specimens, and the background, respectively, with the tallest ones. Varieties can be separated from each other by planting ornamental grasses.

Lilies are often used when decorating borders; their single-line plantings look more attractive when alternating with tall peonies or dwarf spirea.

Many gardeners wonder whether it is appropriate to plant roses and lilies next to each other in the same flower bed. If certain color combinations are observed, such a neighborhood is quite acceptable.

White roses can be placed in the foreground of the flower bed, and tall lilies with darker-colored flowers can be planted behind them. Yellow or beige roses will harmonize with bright orange lilies. If there is a single pink or red rose bush in the flowerbed, you can plant light lilies in groups; they will emphasize not only the splendor of the rose, but will also attract the eye.

In general, lilies go well with most plants. It is not advisable to plant them only in one flowerbed with tulips, or to replace them. These flowers are susceptible to the same diseases and pests, so it is better to place them in different places in the garden.

It is difficult to find a garden plot without delicate lilies. Flower growers love an unpretentious perennial that personifies purity and chastity. According to experienced gardeners, even a beginner can cope with planting and caring for lilies if he adheres to certain nuances of growing amazing flowers.

When to buy bulbs

The bulb (an important part of the plant) is not only a source of food, but also a way to reproduce lilies.

To grow beautiful flowers, you need to purchase large, healthy bulbs. They are prepared throughout the year.

Autumn is the best time to purchase harvested crops for spring sowing, so a wide selection of varieties is offered. In addition, many stores offer big discounts for pre-orders. The only drawback is saving the flower bulbs until planting.
You can buy planting material in the spring, but the choice is already poorer, since interesting varieties have already been sorted out by lily lovers.
It is convenient to buy bulbs immediately before planting. They are purchased at the store and immediately planted in the country. But you have to take only the leftovers.
When planning planting in autumn, bulbs are purchased at the end of August, but the assortment is also small. But it will save you from winter storage.

Lilies in the garden

How to choose healthy bulbs

Bulbs are planted in early autumn and late summer.

Planting material is sold in specialized stores in the spring. When choosing, pay attention to the appearance:

no mechanical damage;
no traces of rotting are visible;
the presence of at least four roots 4–5 cm long;
the scales are uniformly colored.

Only large and healthy bulbs produce beautiful lilies.

Processing of planting material

Before planting, the bulbs are disinfected by keeping them in a bright pink solution of potassium manganese for at least half an hour.

Gardeners praise products that accelerate plant growth and disinfect: Epin, Maxim. The soaking time for planting material is indicated on the packaging.

If there are not enough healthy bulbs for planting, gardeners try to treat the diseased seed by first cleaning the damaged areas and soaking them in foundationol and karbafos.

Note! After treatment, planting material is planted separately from healthy bulbs.

Growing lily seedlings

Many gardeners believe that it is more convenient to plant flowers in early spring using seedlings. This makes it possible to observe how plants adapt, what problems arise, and it is easier to plan a flower bed.

Seedlings are grown at home in a container or pot.

Disinfected (calcined in the oven) soil from the garden plot is poured into it. You can save yourself from these procedures and purchase ready-made soil in the store.
The prepared bulbs are buried. It is acceptable to plant a lot of planting material in one pot, since the plants will be planted in a flower bed.
During this period, the seedlings are watered once a week. They don't feed. The main thing is that it is light.

After 10 days, the bulbs germinate.

Important! Lily is an outdoor plant; experienced gardeners do not recommend growing it at home, as the flower will die.

Lily from seeds: cultivation and features

Planting by seeds is one of the safest options for propagating flowers, but it takes more time. It will take at least four years to grow flowering lilies.

Seed material can be bought in a store or collected independently from healthy flowers. It is important to know how quickly seeds germinate, since seedlings of those that germinate quickly appear in the first year, while those that germinate slowly form a small bulb in the fall.

How and when to plant lilies with seeds

Seeds are sown immediately in open ground or in a pot at home. Pre-sowing increases germination.

Seeds that take a long time to germinate are planted in late autumn so they can survive the winter. The planting site is fertilized with humus, and before frost sets in, the soil is mulched with a thick layer of foliage or hay. Mulch will keep the seeds from freezing.

At the end of February or at the beginning of March, flower seeds are sown for seedlings. A drainage layer (expanded clay) is poured into the container, peat or humus is added, then fertile soil is added.

Shoots appear after three weeks at temperatures from 19 °C to 25 °C. When two leaves appear, a pick is made. By September, the crops are harvested a second time and taken to a dark room where the temperature does not exceed 8 °C.

In spring, the formed small bulbs are planted in the garden bed.

Transplanting and dividing bulbs

In August (at the end) or the first ten days of September, bulbous perennials are replanted: tulips, lilies, daffodils so that they take root before winter.

The procedure is carried out every four years.
The separated bulbs are placed in soil prepared in advance: fertilized with organic matter and minerals.
Then the planting material is buried 6 cm (this will protect against frost).

There are known types of lilies that need to be divided annually (Asian hybrids). Carefully dig up the plants without damaging the roots. Brown scales with rusty spots are carefully cleaned. Use a knife to separate small onions. Then they are disinfected in potassium permanganate and planted wet in the ground.

Note! Division not only propagates flowers, rejuvenates and heals the plant, the procedure is necessary for normal growth and development.

Preparing the site before planting lilies

The choice of planting site depends on the variety of lilies. Asian varieties require sunny areas, although they also grow in beds with light partial shade. Japanese, calloused, reddish, magnificent lilies are planted in semi-shaded places. The upper part of the plant stem should be illuminated by the sun's rays, and the lower part needs shade. For this purpose, low lawn grass or flowers are sown next to the flowers. These types of lilies in the Moscow region do not grow without film cover.

Trumpet lilies are unpretentious species. They rarely get sick and are not damaged by insect pests. Flowers easily take root in any climate.

There are conditions common to the successful cultivation of all varieties:

the soil in the selected area should be light and fertile;
Large trees cannot grow nearby;
choose a high site where water does not stagnate and groundwater does not accumulate;
a place protected from drafts (if not, artificial protection is created).

Proper soil preparation

Since flowers are not replanted every year, they grow in one place for several years, special attention is paid to soil preparation. The soil is lightened, making it looser. Fertilize, increasing the nutritional value of the soil, with peat, humus, manure and sand.

Note! Most lilies are grown on neutral soils, but there are varieties that prefer slightly alkaline or acidified soil. Before choosing a variety, it is advisable to check with a specialist what kind of soil is needed.

Mineral fertilizers are added to soil rich in organic matter. They dig no deeper than one spade bayonet.

The soil is prepared for spring planting in the fall, and in the spring fertilizers are applied to flowers planted before winter.

How to plant lilies correctly

Flowers are planted in spring and autumn. Each period has pros and cons. Gardeners give preference to autumn planting, since the plant has time to take root, the roots become stronger, and it is easier for the flower to withstand winter frosts and fluctuating spring temperatures.

What determines the choice of landing time?

Experienced flower growers consider the period until mid-autumn to be the most suitable time for planting. This depends on the natural course of plant growth.

After flowering, lilies rest (at rest). Then the bulb actively grows and takes root. With the onset of spring warmth, a peduncle bud is formed.

Sometimes the chosen flower variety forces gardeners to plant lilies in the spring, since not all of them can withstand the harsh winters of the central regions of the country.

Caring for lilies in the garden

To grow beautiful, healthy flowers, you need to take care of them. Caring for lilies is not much different from standard care for other flowers:

watered;
loosen, remove weeds;
fed.

Lilies do not need abundant watering, as it will lead to stagnation of water, which will cause the roots to rot. Lack of moisture is also harmful.

In spring, flowers are watered more often as the foliage grows rapidly. In summer, watering is reduced. To ensure long flowering, water once every 7 days. When flowering ends, watering is increased.

How to feed lilies for lush flowering in the garden

In order for lilies to bloom magnificently, they are fed.

At the beginning of spring, plants are fed with nitrogen. Ammonium nitrate or urea is scattered on the surface of the soil around the bushes (2 tablespoons per 1 m²).
If the soil is dry, then water it under the roots (2 tablespoons per 10-liter watering can).
During the summer, plants are fed twice. During the formation of buds, another fertilizing with minerals (phosphorus, potassium) is carried out. Dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of azofoska in a bucket (10 l) of water. At the end of flowering, the lilies are fed again, since the supply of nutrients for the abundant color has been used up.

Note! Wood ash is added to any top dressing in the summer (100 g per 1 m²).

How to cut flowers correctly

Lilies are rarely cut.

Sometimes you want to put a vase with a delicate bouquet at home

In order not to harm the plant by pruning, some nuances must be observed:

You cannot cut flowers during the day in sunny weather, only in cloudy weather in the early morning or evening;
use a sterile knife and treat it with alcohol;
the stem is not cut off completely, a third part is left to feed the bulb;
so that water does not stagnate at the cut site after rain, it is made obliquely.

How to prepare a lily for winter

Before the onset of winter cold, flowers are prepared for wintering:

when the stems are dry, they are cut off, leaving at least 10 cm;
feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrogen is not needed), since after flowering the bulb is formed and needs nutrition;
make a thick layer of mulch from leaves, sawdust, hay.

For this purpose, pine needles are the most suitable choice. It will protect against frost, slugs, and mice.

Cover the top with material

Caring for lilies after flowering

After flowering, the underground part strengthens and buds form. Nutrition comes not only from the ground. The stems and leaves (due to the process of photosynthesis) also feed the bulb.

Lilies have faded: what to do next

Gardeners who decide to leave flowers in the ground for the winter cut the stems of the plant, feed it, and cover it.

Pruning lilies after flowering

If you cut the stems before they dry:

the bulb will stop growing;
the flower will not receive proper nutrition;
does not overwinter well;
will not produce lush flowering next year.

Important! Remove dried stems and those on which a seed box has begun to form, taking away nutrition from the plant.

Flowers are cut obliquely with tools disinfected with alcohol: pruners, scissors.

Do I need to dig up lilies for the winter?

Depends on a number of reasons:

if you need to propagate the plant;
the variety has poor frost resistance;
the flowers show signs of disease (the stem turns black, rot appears);
The lilies began to get smaller.

There is no consensus among experienced flower growers about whether it is necessary to dig up the bulbs. But once every 5 years, when you need to dig up the lilies, it is necessary to transplant them to a new place.

Collection and storage of planting material

The dug up bulbs are carefully inspected, sorted, and processed:

wash off the dirt with warm water;
cut off diseased and damaged roots and dried scales;
disinfected with potassium permanganate (weak solution), foundationazole or karbofos;
dry in a place inaccessible to the sun;
placed in containers (wooden or plastic), covered with sand and sawdust.

Store planting material in a cool room, for example, a cellar at a temperature not exceeding 4 °C.

If there are few bulbs, they are stored in the refrigerator, but first in film, then wrapped in wet canvas.

Note! Some gardeners, to be on the safe side, leave half of the bulbs to overwinter in the ground and dig up the other half.

Lilies: planting and care in open ground in the Urals and Siberia

In the harsh climatic conditions of the northern regions of the country, caring gardeners successfully grow lilies. The main thing is the right choice of variety, knowledge of how to care for lilies in a short, cold summer.

Asian and LA hybrids are suitable for breeding in Siberia: Snezhana, Alaska, Nochka, Iskra, Navona and other varieties. Pink lilies that are resistant to severe frosts are suitable: Marlene, Fermata, Lorena, as well as the popular orange one, Sterngtiger.

In the Urals and Siberia, flowers are planted in the spring and autumn.

Bulbs are buried in the flowerbed only in warm soil, when frosts are no longer dangerous (the second half of May). When planted in the spring, the flowers will take root, take root, grow green, but will be able to bloom next summer.

If the variety is frost-resistant, when planted in the fall the bulbs will take root and overwinter safely. Caring for flowers is no different from traditional care.

Features of growing lilies in the northern regions

With the right choice of a variety that is resistant to cold and temperature fluctuations, growing lilies is the same process as in the southern regions. But there are still some nuances.

It is advisable not to leave the bulbs in the ground over the winter. Despite the shelter, they may freeze. And if gardeners don’t dig up the bulbs, they must cover them with a layer of spruce branches. They throw a lot of snow, because snowdrifts are an excellent covering material.

Important! Bulbs overwinter easier in dry soil. If the autumn turns out to be rainy (for the northern regions - the norm), the flowerbed with lilies is covered with film or slate.

Lily diseases

Mice love to eat flower bulbs, and slugs love to eat succulent stems. In addition, lilies are susceptible to fungal and viral diseases.

Botrytis, or gray rot, is a common lily disease that appears on the lower leaves, then quickly spreads throughout the flower.

The causative agent of gray rot lives in plant bulbs, which is why it is so important to disinfect them. The first symptoms are the formation of round brown spots, which over time become a rusty coating and cover the entire plant.

Having discovered the disease, they immediately begin treatment with Bordeaux mixture and fungicidal preparations: discor, oxych. The treatment is repeated after 10 days.

Why do lilies' buds fall off without blooming?

There are many factors influencing the fall of buds:

water scarcity. Flowers experience a shortage especially on hot days and get rid of buds and some of the greenery;
fungal disease. Because of it, flowers also drop buds that do not have time to open;
botrytis (gray rot), spotting. Excess moisture causes rotting of all elements of the flower. The buds rot;
nematode. Because of this worm, the buds dry out and the leaves begin to fall off as the insect drinks the juices of the plant;
lily flies, fire beetles.

When the first signs appear, you need to find the cause and treat the plants so as not to lose flowering.

Lilies have brown leaves: what to do

The appearance of rusty and brown spots on greenery is caused by a fungal disease affecting the plant.

At first, the spots cover the edges of the leaves and look wet. Over time, they dry out and move to the stems and buds.
If the disease was noticed at the initial stage, you can try to save the lily. If the plant is completely damaged, there will be no flowering.

Note! To prevent brown spots, flowers are treated with agents such as zircon and epin. The treatment is carried out in cloudy weather on dry foliage.

Frequent loosening of the soil near plantings, especially in rainy weather, will reduce the risk of disease.

If brown spots are already visible:

affected leaves are removed and burned;
The completely affected plant is cut off, leaving a stump no higher than 5 cm;
the lily and the place of growth are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or other products containing copper;
apply mineral fertilizers (phosphorus, potassium) to the roots;
sprinkle the plant with ash.

If the disease appears annually, it means that the place for growing lilies is not suitable, it’s time to change it.

Why do lily leaves turn yellow?

Yellowing of foliage occurs for a number of reasons. The main thing is insufficient care. Other:

lack of water. It is necessary to water the flowers on time, especially on hot days;
too frequent planting also causes yellowing of the leaves, the plant lacks oxygen and nutrition;
excess water is just as harmful as too little, causing the foliage to turn yellow;
not enough or too much fertilizer;
flowers experience “iron” hunger;
The leaves turn yellow due to fungal and viral diseases.

You can protect lilies from yellowing if the cause of the occurrence is established.

How to treat lilies

Dense plantings, weeds, and insufficient care of flowers lead to diseases. Caring gardeners begin the fight against diseases and insect pests from the time of planting.

The most effective method of protection is prevention. Plants need to be inspected more often in order to notice in time a disease or insects that have flown onto the succulent stems of lilies.

Pest protection

There are up to one and a half dozen dangerous lily lovers. The most common of them:

Curling leaves indicate spider mites. Spray with fitoverm, actellik;
The squeak beetle is clearly visible on the leaves. Against it, flowers are sprayed with decis, karbofos;
The lily fly lays eggs in the buds. Treatment is required three times. They use karbofos, ditox;
The mole cricket feeds on roots and bulbs, damaging them and leaving numerous holes in the ground. Thunder or grizzly preparations are poured into them. The same remedies will help against the larvae of the May beetle (Khrushchev).

Note! Begin treatment immediately, before there are too many pests. The stores have a wide selection of products against insects and diseases of bulbous crops. Instructions for use of the drugs are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

Lily propagation

Flowers can reproduce in several ways:

bulbs;
cuttings;
scales.

Reproduction of lilies by scales

The method is not entirely common, but it is common.

What do scales look like?

The scales are separated from the bulb, planted in the ground, and they take root. The crops are watered a lot, as a result of which an independent plant grows.

It is advisable to carry out the procedure after digging up the bulbs in the autumn:

First, the scales are carefully washed with warm water.
Disinfect for a quarter of an hour in potassium permanganate.
Allow to dry, place in a bag with crushed charcoal (charcoal).

For one and a half months, they are kept at temperatures up to 23 ° C, and then taken to a cool place (up to 17 ° C) for a month. Afterwards they are stored in the cellar or on the refrigerator shelf until planting.

The planting hole should be no deeper than half the size of the scale.

Note! Lilies will bloom only after three years.

More than a hundred new flowers are obtained this way.

Propagation of lilies by cuttings after flowering

When there is little planting material, gardeners, solving the problem of how to propagate lilies, use this method.

Cut the stem with pruning shears after flowering, almost at the base. A stick is inserted near the stump so that the place of the flower is not lost.
The stem is cut into pieces of 10 cm, from which the leaves are removed from the bottom to the middle, and two short (3 cm) marks (shallow) are made with a sharp knife along the stem.
Dip it in a root-forming agent (any) for a couple of hours, and immediately plant it under the film.
Within two months, the cuttings will grow their own roots, and later small onions will form, which are transplanted to a permanent place.

flower stem

The stem is not always cut into pieces. Dig a shallow horizontal hole and place the entire stem in it, having previously made longitudinal cuts. They water it with epin and build a mini-greenhouse over the place. Cover in winter with peat, sawdust, and snow. By spring, bulbs should form.

Reproduction of lilies by bulblets

A quick and convenient option for forming bulbs. Not all varieties of lilies form bulbs, and some (for example, Asian hybrids, trumpet lilies) develop dozens of buds (aerial bulbs) during flowering. These are the bulbs.

What do bulbs look like?

When the bud bulbs are fully ripe, they are separated from the stem. They sometimes form roots and even leaves.

The bulbs are collected before they fall off (August-September), sent for storage until spring planting, or planted immediately in the fall.

Lilies are noble flowers. With their beautiful blooms, they will add uniqueness and attractiveness to the garden plot and will decorate any landscape.

They transform the most modest flower garden into a fabulous extravaganza - along with the filigree delicacy of wax buds, a delicate fragrance wafts over the flowerbed. Powerful plants fit perfectly into garden design; lilies are used to create mixed compositions of perennials, individual flower beds and spot plantings to create bright accents. When using lilies for joint plantings, it should be taken into account that the flowering time of plants is quite short, so long-flowering perennials are chosen for planting nearby.

Among lilies there are plants with flowers of different shapes and colors, belonging to more than 100 species, but most often in summer cottages there are specimens belonging to the groups Asian Hybrids, Eastern Hybrids, Tubular, OT hybrids. Growing these lilies is not particularly difficult, so the plants develop well in the plots. Bulbs are planted in the autumn-spring period; planting lily bulbs in the spring has its own subtleties, which we will discuss in detail in this article.

Spring: which lilies should be planted in open ground

Lily bulbs can be planted in open ground in the first half of autumn and spring. What determines the landing time? There may be several reasons for spring planting:

Late purchase of planting material in the fall, when weather conditions did not allow planting (sharp cold, frost, prolonged rains).
Lack of time for the gardener.
Inability to purchase lily bulbs of certain varieties for autumn planting.

The traditional time for planting this flower crop is the first half of autumn, which is directly related to the natural development cycle of lilies: after flowering (summer), a dormant period begins, which lasts all winter. Then, with the onset of spring, the bulb wakes up, new roots grow and flower buds appear.

Asian and OT-hybrid lilies tolerate wintering well when planted in autumn, but it is better not to leave the Oriental group for wintering in the open ground, as you will have to put a lot of effort into constructing a reliable shelter.

But if necessary, in the spring you can plant lilies belonging to any species in the garden, the main thing is to carry out agrotechnical measures for planting lilies in the spring and carry out the work in the proper time frame.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring planting lilies

The advantages of planting lilies in the spring include:

Reducing the risk of spoilage and freezing of bulbs in winter, because even planting material purchased in the fall can be stored perfectly and without loss in a home refrigerator if there is no basement. If you follow the storage rules, lily bulbs will take root well in the spring and will delight you with gorgeous flowers.
There is no need to insulate flower beds with bulbs for the winter.
The risk of rodents eating lilies is eliminated; in harsh winters, hungry mice will not refuse the juicy bulbs.

There are few disadvantages, but they are:

Some bulbs do not have time to form a powerful root system before flowering, so the development of the plant occurs at the expense of the energy of the bulb. Such plants bloom poorly or do not develop buds.
When planting in spring, daughter bulbs are poorly formed on lilies, which significantly reduces the production of their own planting material.
In cold summers (when planting lilies in spring), flowering may not occur.

Choosing a site for planting lily bulbs

In order for lilies to delight with flowering, you should take a responsible approach to choosing a place for planting; lighting is of particular importance. It is ideal if the place for growing plants has good lighting, but some types of lilies can tolerate partial shade. You cannot grow varietal lilies only in the dense shade cast by tree crowns and tall buildings.

Name of the lily variety	Selecting an area based on illumination	Note
Asian	Bright lighting	Will tolerate light shading
Tubular	Bright lighting
Eastern Hybrids	Shading from bright sun
LA Hybrids	Bright lighting	Will tolerate light shading
Martagon	Shading from bright sun

Lilies are grown in one place for a long time, so the composition and fertility of the soil is of great importance. Types of lilies can be divided into two groups, in one of which the plants tolerate excessive lime in the soil (L. Royal, L. Henry, L. Candidum, Saranka, L. Leopardovaya). Representatives of the other group (L. long-flowered; L. tiger; L. canadiana) do not tolerate limestone soils.

Sandy, clayey, swampy, dense and poor rocky soils are not suitable for growing lilies. Plants prefer moist soil without stagnant water, so the soil should be nutritious and well-drained. When digging a flower bed, humus and sand are added for planting lilies. Per 1 m2 you can add from 5 to 8 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium sulfate. Acidic soil is not suitable for growing trumpet lilies, so chalk, lime or dolomite flour is added to these plants at the rate of up to 400 g per 1 m2. Eastern Hybrids require planting in slightly acidic soils, so turf soil and peat are added to the flowerbed.

The stems of lilies are quite tall, so it is very important to choose a place protected from the wind for planting the bulbs.

Timing for planting lilies in spring

Speaking about the timing of planting lilies in open ground in the spring, it is worth noting that this procedure cannot be delayed too much, otherwise the plants will get sick and grow weak and unstable.

The time for planting bulbs in open ground is determined depending on the weather; it is important that the soil has time to thaw and warm up well. In the middle zone, lilies are usually planted in clusters from mid to late April. In Siberia, these dates are shifted to May.

Planting lilies in the ground

If many lily bulbs are planted at one time, it is convenient to make common furrows, at the bottom of which drainage is placed from coarse sand, broken brick or small crushed stone. This layer is covered with soil and the bulbs are laid out at a distance of 20 to 40 cm (depending on the type of lilies). The depth of the furrow should be equal to three times the height of the bulb plus the amount of drainage backfill. This rule applies to all types of lilies, except L. martagon, in which the leaves are formed immediately above the bulb. This variety requires little deepening.

If only a few bulbs are planted, then individual holes are prepared for each specimen.

The planted lily bulbs are covered with soil and watered thoroughly.

In just a few weeks the plant will delight you with abundant flowering.

Planting lilies with bulbs in the spring is most often carried out for oriental aromatic hybrids and varieties that do not tolerate cold temperatures. You need to plant according to a certain pattern, otherwise the risk of harming the planting material increases - the lilies will not bloom or will even rot in the ground.

The main advantage of planting bulbs in spring is the absence of freezing. With the onset of warmth, ideal conditions are created for the survival of planting material; lilies form roots well and take root in the soil.

The optimal time for planting lilies in the spring in the regions of the middle zone is the end of April. The soil has time to warm up, stable night temperatures are established and frosts are excluded. Before planting in open ground, the bulbs can be stored in the refrigerator, and not buried and insulated, as during autumn work.

There is no point in postponing planting until late spring - at the end of May, lilies simply will not be able to take root properly. They are weakened and more often susceptible to disease, which inhibits flowering and negatively affects its quality.

Important: If you are planting varieties for propagation, preference should be given to autumn planting, since during this period lilies produce the largest number of children. In spring, daughter bulbs are practically not formed.

Preparing for spring planting

To successfully plant lilies in the spring, you need to properly prepare not only the bulbs themselves, but also the area.

Quality of planting material

You can get beautiful and abundantly flowering plants only from healthy bulbs. The planting material should be free of rot, mold, scales of different colors and textures, and the roots should not be dried.

When storing bulbs at home, the following rules must be observed:

Place the dug up lilies on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator and inspect them regularly;
If the planting material begins to sprout, it is recommended to plant it in containers with soil (a mixture of peat and garden soil) and then transfer it to a flower bed;

For damaged bulbs, soaking in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (up to 10 g per bucket of water) or Fundazol is recommended.

Important: Additional insulation will help increase survival rate. It is enough to simply cover the plantings with plastic bottles with the top cut off - this will create greenhouse conditions.

Site selection and preparation

All representatives of the Liliaceae family prefer loose, well-drained soils without stagnant water. In light sandy soil, the bulbs will dry out; in clay soil, they will suffer from impaired air exchange and rot. Thus, site preparation should be carried out based on the natural characteristics of the land:

Sandy soil should be additionally enriched with peat (1 bucket per 1 m2);
Add looseness to clayey soil using peat and sand (1 bucket per m2);
Reduce the acidic pH using wood ash (1 cup per 1 m2) or dolomite flour (2-3 cups per 1 m2).

Additional application of rotted compost or humus will increase soil fertility, which will have a positive effect on the growth of bulbs and further flowering. You can also use mineral fertilizers: potassium sulfate or superphosphate. The dosage is 50 g and 100 g for the entire area, respectively.

The site preparation process itself is carried out in several stages.

The top layer of soil is carefully dug up to a depth of 40 cm, and all weeds are removed.
The flowerbed is drained - you can use sand, crushed stone, gravel, river pebbles.
If other garden crops were grown in the selected flower bed last season, the soil is diluted with fresh nutrient substrate and peat.
Mineral and organic fertilizers are applied, acidity is reduced to the desired level (ideally 6.5 units).
Constant soil moisture is maintained through watering and irrigation; if desired, you can additionally mulch the area with a layer of peat, rotted sawdust or compost.

Important: In order for lilies to bloom well, the planting site must be sunny, protected from drafts and winds.

How to plant lilies: features of gardening work

When planting lilies, you need to take into account a simple rule - the depth of embedding in the ground should be equal to three times the height of the bulb itself. It is also advisable to put other recommendations into practice:

At the bottom of the planting hole, drainage is required, covered with a cushion of fertile soil;
The optimal distance between the bulbs is 20-40 cm, depending on the height of the variety. In this case, the root system develops normally;
To protect against sudden frosts, the following sealing is used - the looser and lighter the soil, the deeper it is worth placing the planting material;
To ensure rapid rooting, lilies are watered well, adding soil if they shrink.

To make the flower bed look spectacular during the flowering of lilies, group plantings of 3-4 bulbs are allowed at a distance of 10-12 cm or 15-18 cm for small-flowered and large-flowered varieties, respectively.

After planting the lilies in the ground, the holes are filled with fertile soil and regularly moistened at the root as the soil dries out. It is worth focusing on the condition of the soil and weather conditions - with the onset of drought, watering will be required more frequently than during the rainy season.

Lilies in the open ground: care after planting

For high-quality flowering of lilies, it is necessary to observe not only the nuances of planting, but also not to forget about further care - if they grow in waterlogged or dry soil, you are unlikely to see buds. Mulch will provide better moisture retention, but timely watering should also be taken as a rule.

Use mineral fertilizers and no fresh organic matter as fertilizers - such “nutrition” provokes fungal diseases. The following dosage is recommended:

Wood ash – 1 cup per 1 m2 of planting;
Nitroammofoska – 50 g per 1 bucket of water;
Ammonium nitrate - 1 tablespoon per 1 m 3;
Superphosphate - 40-50 g per 10 liters.

As a disease prevention, the soil is spilled with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%) in May and July.

Lilies should be cut diagonally for a bouquet or after flowering - this way rainwater will not accumulate. Leave most of the stem - the presence of green mass will have a positive effect on the growth of the bulbs.