We make natural ventilation in a private house with our own hands. Proper ventilation in a private house with your own hands: system, types, design and calculation Scrub for ventilation of a private house

The microclimate of the house depends on the correct ventilation device, which has a direct impact on the well-being and comfort of all its residents. Properly constructed ventilation ducts in a private house will ensure stable air exchange. They will create conditions for regular supply of fresh portions and unhindered removal of polluted air.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the specifics of constructing duct ventilation in a low-rise country property. We describe in detail the technology of installing a ventilation system, placing equipment, laying and fastening ventilation ducts. Practice-tested improvement options are discussed.

The information presented for consideration is based on building regulations. Taking into account our recommendations, you can build effective ventilation yourself. For visual understanding, diagrams, photo guides and video instructions are attached to the text.

Ventilation of the room is necessary in order to create optimal conditions for people’s lives and the existence of furniture and equipment located in the house.

If in apartment buildings everything has already been done by the specialists who erected the building, then during the construction of private real estate this issue is often overlooked.

Sometimes the installation of ventilation ducts is considered a waste of time and money. However, they are an obligatory part of the project implementation, ensuring favorable living conditions and long service life of building structures

This is a fundamentally erroneous opinion. Musty air, sweaty windows, unpleasant odors from bathrooms and the aromas of fried food, along with fumes, will enter all rooms and even the bedroom. Without a properly designed and assembled ventilation system, the comfortable life of the inhabitants of the house will be at risk.

Ventilation in a private house can be:

natural;
mechanical;
mixed.

The first type is based on the natural process of circulation of air masses. No mechanisms are used to pump air into the house. It comes from the street, penetrating through micro-ventilated windows or supply valves arranged in the most suitable places.

In rooms of the house that do not have valves installed, air circulates through doorways and through cracks between the door and the floor.

Rules for installing ventilation pipes

A properly equipped ventilation system will perform its functions efficiently and will not create problems for the homeowner. To do this, it is important to lay ventilation ducts in the house, taking into account the rules and recommendations.

Firstly, the size of the exhaust ventilation duct in the room must have a diameter of at least 10x10 cm or 15x15 cm. It is better to use ready-made pipes than to make ducts from plasterboard - this will save installation time, and air flows better through the pipe.

To install ventilation ducts, galvanized metal and plastic rigid or flexible pipes of various diameters are used.

Secondly, ventilation pipes must protrude above the roof to a certain height, depending on their location. Thus, the length of the vertical section of the ventilation duct should on average be from 1.5 to 3 meters. If pipes do not fit into the overall design of the house, then you can use ventilation outlets in the roof.

The height of the ventilation ducts above the roof level is assumed to be equal to the height of the chimneys. It depends on the location of the pipes relative to the ridge ridge. It is important to protect the outlet with a grate to prevent birds and insects from entering the shaft

Thirdly, according to the regulations, it is necessary to provide ventilation to the boiler room and the room located above the boiler room. Moreover, the purpose of this room does not matter. This could be an office, library, bedroom or living room.

Fourthly, it is important to distinguish between the concepts of chimney and ventilation. In the first case, combustion products enter the channel, and in the second, exhaust air from the room itself. Under no circumstances should these 2 channels be combined into one. This is a gross violation.

Ventilation outlets fit well into the overall idea of the roof design. You can choose the model that best suits the color

Fifthly, in the kitchen you need to provide 2 separate ventilation channels - and for supply air. The second option is to use a special grille where the air duct is connected and there is a separate hole for air to enter the room. Or a window with micro-ventilation would be a good solution.

Thoughtful design solutions with a stepped ceiling can disguise any ventilation system

Sixth, if the house has rooms intended for household needs - a dressing room, laundry room, pantry, washing room and other purposes, then it is necessary to design a ventilation duct there. In such rooms there are no windows through which air could flow.

Seventhly, when a ventilation duct is laid in a wall, it is important that it is not load-bearing. It is not recommended to install them in external walls - due to temperature changes, condensation will always form there.

When installing a ventilation duct in the wall, rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, boiler room should be nearby

The eighth rule is that wooden ceiling and roof structures should not adjoin or touch a stone or brick ventilation duct. For a tree, such a neighborhood can be disastrous.

The ninth rule is that it is undesirable to use only a window as a supply valve. She's not the best option. A sore nasopharynx in the morning, if there is a sudden change in weather overnight, will be a problem for the owner of the house who slept with the window open. This is especially true in the autumn and spring.

Tenth rule - when it is not possible to make ventilation ducts in the room, you can install a supply valve by drilling a through hole in the wall. And at the top, right under the ceiling, drill a hole for installing an exhaust valve. This option for room ventilation can provide the room and its occupants with fresh air.

This article will discuss ventilation in a private house. Namely, how the correct supply ventilation of the house and the correct exhaust ventilation of the house are arranged. In addition, the ventilation scheme of a house with recuperation and the types of air ducts for the ventilation system of a private house will be discussed in general terms.

Ventilation in a private house is installed according to the following algorithm: first we calculate the air exchange and select the cross-section of the air ducts, select the type of ventilation system. Then a ventilation scheme in a private house is drawn up - we determine the installation location of the ventilation equipment, the places where fresh air is taken in and exhaust air is discharged, and the places where the air ducts will pass.

Ventilation system - natural or mechanical

For a person’s comfortable stay in the house, it is important not only the presence of fresh air and its temperature, but also the speed of air flow. And the smaller it is, the more comfortable it is to be in the room. The air exchange in a room with mechanical supply and exhaust ventilation (supply and exhaust fans) is greater than in a room with natural ventilation. This is due to the different normalized volumetric speed of air movement in the ventilation system for them. For mechanical ventilation it is 3-5 m 3 /hour, and for natural ventilation no more than 1 m 3 /hour, that is, 3-5 times less. Therefore, natural ventilation of the house creates more comfortable conditions for people.

But there is one “but”, because of which it is sometimes impossible to do without mechanical ventilation. The fact is that the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the larger its cross-section is needed. Those. in order to pass the same amount of air, the cross-section of the ventilation duct for natural ventilation will be larger than for mechanical ventilation. For example, if we talk about exhaust hood, then in order to pass 300 m 3 /hour of air you will need a channel of 250x400 mm (or 350 mm in diameter) with natural air movement, or a 160x200 mm channel (or 200 mm in diameter) with mechanical exhaust. It is not always possible to place a large natural exhaust duct in the wall, and moving it outside the wall - under the ceiling or along the wall (as in office premises) is not always aesthetically pleasing in residential buildings. Therefore, with large areas of the house and correspondingly large figures for the required hood, it is often necessary to resort to mechanical hood. The flow of air into the room is also not always possible to do only in a natural way; more about this will be discussed later.

Air flow

Scheme of organizing flow in a ventilated space

1 - air flow zone; 2 - air flow zone; 3 - air exhaust zone.

Whatever the type of supply and exhaust (natural or mechanical), in order for the air to move freely throughout the house from the supply units to the exhaust units, it is necessary to install flow grilles in the doors along the path of its movement. The flow of air is considered to be organized correctly if the most polluted room in the chain of air movement is the last. That is why the hood is usually installed in the kitchen and bathroom.

Door with overflow grille

Or leave a gap between the bottom of the door and the floor, at least 20 mm across the entire width of the door.

Gap under the door for free air movement

If there is no such gap in the doors, then the entire ventilation system in the house can be considered not working. In addition, you will hardly be able to open doors leading to a bathroom without a ventilation grille with a running exhaust fan (due to excess pressure).

Air flow

What causes the air flow, how to understand whether there is enough air in your home and what measures to take to increase the amount of supply air we will consider further.

As already mentioned, air flow can be carried out naturally or forcefully.

Infiltration is the natural influx through leaks in external barriers (windows, external doors and walls of the house).

Natural air flow through leaks in window and door openings

As you know, ordinary old-style wooden windows have fairly high air permeability (about 10-20 kg/hour*m2). With a small house area, about 100-140 m2, the volume of fresh air penetrating through the cracks and the leakage of such windows is usually sufficient to ensure the necessary inflow. In addition, it is also added to, not so significant, but nevertheless, the flow of air through the leaks of the external doors, as well as the flow through the walls.

Natural influx through ventilation

Ventilation through an open window or crack when the folding frame of a metal-plastic window is slightly opened

Metal-plastic windows in ventilation position

Resulting in large heat losses;

As a result of such ventilation in winter, the window unit and adjacent slopes cool down, until condensation forms on them;

Air exchange (complete replacement of old air with new) is carried out in 30-75 minutes.

Ventilation with fully open windows

Fast air exchange in the room - only 4-10 minutes;

There is no cooling effect on structures.

Ventilation with windows and front door fully open

Ventilation by opening all windows and the front door

Dangerous draft;

The fastest air exchange is 2-4 minutes when all windows of the house and the front door are opened.

Note: If it is necessary to ensure a single air exchange in a room (Table 4 DBN V.2.2-15-2005 Residential buildings), this means that within an hour in this room a complete exchange of air for new air must be carried out. And if ventilation is the only source of fresh air in your home (for example, the walls of the house are insulated with airtight foam insulation or EPS and there are airtight metal-plastic windows), then to ensure a microclimate that is comfortable and safe for your health, you must ventilate this room every hour using one of the methods described above. If you see this option as inconvenient or simply impossible for you, then consider installing supply valves, which will be discussed further.

Natural inflow through supply wall and window valves

In the last decade, the installation of windows made of metal-plastic has become very popular, one of the features of which is tightness. And the technology for installing such windows does not provide for leaks to remain. Thus we are deprived of natural influx. The air permeability of metal-plastic windows is no more than 0.1 kg/hour*m2, i.e. practically zero. What to do in such a situation? The solution is simple. Firstly, when choosing and ordering windows, we recommend considering the option of window units with an already built-in adjustable ventilation slot in the upper part of the window frame - a supply window valve.

Window with supply valve

If the windows have already been selected, purchased and installed, you can install an air infiltration valve - a supply wall valve.

Wall supply valve

The supply wall valve is a round pipe, which is mounted into the wall (through and through), and is closed with grilles on both sides. The internal valve grid is adjustable from fully closed to fully open. It is advisable to install this valve near window openings, then they can be masked with tulle, and the incoming air will also enter the radiators that are located under the windows.

Air flow in the radiator coverage area

For the same purpose, you can install a valve directly behind the battery, then the incoming air will immediately warm up.

Installing a supply valve directly behind the radiator

Valves can be equipped with filters, as well as humidity and temperature sensors. It is recommended to install dampers in the bedroom, hall and dining room in order to maintain the direction of air movement from clean areas (living rooms) to household areas (kitchen, toilet, bathroom).

The same valves often have to be installed in houses insulated with vapor-proof insulation, such as polystyrene foam or EPS. The walls become vapor-tight, and accordingly the amount of supply air in the house decreases.

Most supply valves supply 50 or 100 m3/h of fresh air. In order to select the required number of valves, you need to calculate the required amount of supply air (L in) using the calculation given in the article.

House with installed wall inlet valve

Forced inflow using suction fans

There are cases when the required air flow is so great that you need to install supply valves under almost every window in the house, but you don’t want to do this, for example, for aesthetic reasons. Then a forced air system is right for you.

The supply system consists of ventilation equipment and a ventilation network. The equipment includes: air valve, filter, heater, fan and silencer. And the network includes the air intake grille, air ducts and air distribution devices (grills, diffusers, anemostats). A set of supply ventilation equipment is shown in the figure below. A filter in the supply ventilation system is necessary to remove large dust particles that are present in the street air. Heater - for heating air during the cold season, they are not available in all systems, they are installed at the request of the customer and can be water or electric. When using water heaters, the ventilation system must be additionally equipped with mixing units (hydraulic piping of the heater), which in turn increases the cost of the system.

Scheme of a set of equipment for supply ventilation

If the house has mechanical not only air supply, but also air exhaust, then it makes sense to install air recovery system in order to save electricity for heating the supply air. The recovery system will be discussed in more detail a little later.

Air extraction

If the cottage is being built from scratch, then it is necessary to provide for ventilation ducts in the internal walls of the bathrooms, toilets, and kitchens. Channels should be made of brickwork in internal walls (as a rule, they are designed in the architectural section of the project).

Brick ventilation duct

Therefore, exhaust ventilation in a private house is planned before the construction of walls begins. If it is not possible to place ventilation ducts in the wall, then they can be made in the form of attached shafts.

Types of ventilation ducts

a - placement of ventilation ducts in a brick wall;

b - ventilation ducts;

c - suspended ventilation duct;

d - output to the roof of the ventilation shaft.

Natural exhaust

If the amount of air that needs to be removed (L out) is small, and the cross-section of the exhaust duct selected from the diagram fits in the wall (or does not fit, but you are ready to make an additional duct), then you can get by with a natural hood. The channel from inside the room, in this case, is simply closed with a ventilation grille.

Various types of ventilation grilles

Mechanical hood

If the cross-section of the channel during natural exhaust is too large, then it can be reduced by making the exhaust mechanical by installing exhaust fans in bathrooms and toilets.

Exhaust fans

There are many types and types of exhaust fans for bathrooms and bathrooms on the ventilation equipment market. The most popular are wall fans, which are mounted on the wall and go directly into the ventilation duct. And hidden-mounted fans, they are mounted in the ceiling space and are also discharged into the duct through an air duct. We select the fan based on the pre-calculated exhaust flow rate (L exhaust), taking into account pressure losses when air moves through the air ducts. Those. the fan is not selected specifically for the L out figure, but with a margin for pressure losses, which sellers of ventilation equipment can usually calculate if you tell them the length and material of your air ducts.

The control of a mechanical hood for bathrooms is often connected to a light switch. Such hoods can be delayed in time, for example, by 50 seconds, after they are turned on (a person has time to wash their hands) or with a delay of 50 seconds after turning off the light. Bathroom fans can be equipped with humidity sensors, i.e. work until normal humidity is established in the room. These hoods are a little more expensive than regular ones.

A completely silent fan, of course, can only be in the off state, but there are fan models that are quieter than others, for example those equipped with noise-reducing rubber-metal bushings. They dampen noise and vibration from engine operation.

Scheme of supply and exhaust ventilation in the building

1- exhaust fan; 2 - air flow through the leaks of the window opening; 3 - air flow through the supply valve; 4 - flow grille in the doorway.

Air movement on the floor

Ventilation systems with recovery

Recently, air handling units with energy recovery have become very popular. This is explained by the fact that when fresh supply air enters the house during the cold season, we spend a huge amount of thermal energy on heating it. Recuperation systems allow you to save about 50% of heat due to partial heating of the supply (cold) air with the exhaust (warm) air. Partly because the heat of the exhaust air is not always enough to heat the cold supply air to +20 ºС. Therefore, in severe frosts, the supply air is heated by a heater built into the recuperator. In such a system, both the supply and exhaust are mechanical, since air is supplied and removed forcibly by supply and exhaust fans, as can be seen in the figure below.

Operating principle of the recovery system

If the house has air conditioning systems, then in the summer the supply air will be partially cooled. This in turn will reduce the load on the air conditioning systems. The operating principle is as follows: the exhaust air cooled by the air conditioning system, passing through the recuperator, cools the warmer supply air.

Location of recovery system equipment

In cottages with a large area, air exchange sometimes exceeds 800m 3 /hour. Consequently, the dimensions of mechanical ventilation units will be large. It is best to decide in advance on their installation location; this could be a technical room in the basement or an attic space. If an attic is selected, it must be insulated to prevent freezing of the coolant and damage to the ventilation equipment (if equipment for internal installation is provided). Below, the figures show examples of the location of ventilation system equipment with recovery in the attic (a) and in the technical room (b).

Figure a. An example of supply and exhaust ventilation in a house with ventilation equipment placed in the attic

Figure b. An example of supply and exhaust ventilation in a house with the placement of ventilation equipment in a technical room

Types of air ducts

With the forced ventilation option, air ducts are used to distribute supply air throughout the house and remove exhaust air (for example, as in the air recovery system in the figure above). Which is better to use an air duct: round, rectangular or flexible?

Round duct

Round air ducts with a perfectly smooth surface have the least resistance to air movement, while rectangular ones have more resistance.

Rectangular duct

In flexible air ducts, the air resistance is the greatest, due to the uneven corrugated surface. But they are the only ones suitable in cases where the channel turns several times over a short section or when, for example, a kitchen hood needs to be connected to the main (main) channel.

Flexible duct

For example, the wiring of air ducts at home can be done as follows: the main air ducts can be made rigid (galvanized), and the branches can be made with flexible corrugated air ducts. Air ducts from the intake grille to the ventilation unit (or to the heater in a dial system) must be insulated to prevent condensation.

Kitchen hood

Often, when configuring a home ventilation system, the question arises: is it taken into account when calculating ventilation that part of the air is removed by the kitchen hood? No, it is not taken into account. This is due to the fact that the kitchen hood is turned on only occasionally and you simply cannot count on it when it is idle. After all, a kitchen hood is designed to remove odors, steam and, first of all, harmful substances at the place of their formation - above the stove.

In this article, we examined possible options for ensuring proper inflow and exhaust in the cottage. I hope they will help fill the walls of your home with fresh and clean air.

The issue of room ventilation with the advent of plastic windows has become relevant due to the almost complete sealing of buildings. In cold conditions, this is not so bad, but in an unventilated room, mold, mildew, and pathogenic bacteria grow and it becomes unsuitable for comfortable living.

When building a private house with your own hands, at the design stage you can and should consider how it will be ventilated. After completion of construction work, solving this problem will be difficult, and in some cases impossible.

Types of ventilation

Ventilation is divided into three types:

Natural ventilation

occurs due to the property of warm layers of air to rise above cold ones. It involves laying ventilation ducts in the walls of the house through which air circulates. For a fireplace or stove, the air duct is made separately. The pipe should rise above the ridge, this will give additional traction.

The ventilation duct must be at least one and a half brick thick, and its cross-section must exceed 140 mm in order to avoid the reverse draft effect. 100 mm horizontal bends are made into the rooms, using plastic pipes.

The disadvantages of natural ventilation are the dependence on weather conditions - both temperature and pressure, as well as the low performance of the system. Its use makes sense in buildings made of expanded clay concrete, foam concrete, brick and wood, provided the ambient air is clean.

Suitable for small private low-rise houses, baths, saunas, outbuildings. Below is a typical ventilation diagram in a private house.

Forced or supply and exhaust ventilation

It is used in cases where the air needs to be cleaned of odors, dirt and dust particles, as well as in rooms with “non-breathable” walls made of concrete with polystyrene, SIP and 3D panels, sandwich and vacuum panels, in all types of frame houses. Supply ventilation uses a fan to create a pressure difference, a filter for cleaning the air entering the house and a recuperator, a device for heating the incoming flow.

It is recommended to use a different fan for each room in the house. For garages and boiler rooms, it is necessary to make a separate hood to avoid harmful substances from entering other rooms. The most intense ventilation should be in the kitchen, since the air there not only heats up, but also has a characteristic smell.

Mixed ventilation

Used when natural ventilation cannot provide sufficient air flow. As a rule, the hood is installed in rooms where condensation collects, the air is polluted, or where it is necessary to remove the smell - in the bathroom, basement, cellar, toilet, boiler room, as well as in the kitchen.

Usually, with a mixed ventilation device in private houses, only air inflow is forced, and outflow occurs naturally, or only part of the premises is ventilated. The use of a mixed ventilation system in large private wooden brick, foam block and stone houses is also justified.

Sanitary standards

Fresh air consumption per healthy adult is about 10 m3 per hour. If there is no oxygen flow, the well-being of people in the room worsens - drowsiness and headaches appear. This is due to the increased concentration of carbon dioxide in the air.

According to the standards in force since the 50s of the last century, for rooms up to 20 m2 with a ceiling height below 3 meters, the air composition must be completely renewed within an hour, that is, the air exchange rate is at least 20 * 3 = 60 m3 per hour . If the volume of the room exceeds 60 m3, then in a simplified form the air exchange rate is considered to be 3 m3/hour per 1 m3 of room volume. For toilets the norm is 50 m3/hour, for bathrooms 25 m3/hour, and for kitchens 90 m3/hour.

When building private houses, many people think that they will get by with ventilating the windows and do not do ventilation in the hope of saving money. Make no mistake about this - the atmosphere in the building in such cases will be very unhealthy. As a result, the treatment of respiratory diseases may cost significantly more money than what is saved.

In addition, there is such a radioactive inert gas - radon, which accumulates on the first floors of buildings. Also, if ventilation is not carried out regularly, the room will have variable humidity and temperature.

Features of installation in various rooms

When installing ventilation in the kitchen, the following nuances should be taken into account:

the width of the slab and the exhaust dome must correspond to each other;
the air in the kitchen should be completely renewed 6-12 times per hour;
the distance between the stove and the hood should be 60-90 cm.

In the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the increased humidity in the room and based on this:

there should be no supply openings to prevent steam from flowing from the bathroom into other rooms;
all wiring must be moisture-resistant or corrugated, the contacts must be carefully insulated;
It is recommended to install a gyrostat to automate the operation of exhaust ventilation.

the hole for ventilation is made as high as possible, ideally on the ceiling;
it is advisable to combine the switch for lighting and for the hood so that they turn on simultaneously;
the exhaust power must ensure a system capacity of at least 50 m3 for a separate toilet, and for a bathroom combined with a bathroom - at least 75 m3;
when the ventilation ducts of the toilet and bathroom are located at the same level, they are combined into one air duct.

In basements, both natural and forced ventilation are used. If the basement is small, up to 50 m2, then it is quite possible to get by with a natural air circulation option.

Criteria for correct ventilation arrangement

air is discharged from the ventilation duct on the roof;
air intake in the forced system is made through a grille located at a level of 2-3 meters from the ground;
air circulation is carried out from cleaner rooms to dirtier ones - from bedrooms and living rooms towards the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler rooms.
forced ventilation in the kitchen is mandatory, especially where there are gas water heaters;
All rooms in the building must be ventilated;
the air in the house should not cool too quickly, there should be no strong drafts;
Condensation should not form on the walls and ceilings, and odors from the premises should quickly disappear.

Based on the above criteria, a decision is made on the advisability of using forced, mixed or natural ventilation.

Photo of ventilation in a private house

Ecology of consumption. Estate: The main types used in private houses are natural and forced, the distinctive features of which are the use (forced) of additional equipment, or ventilation using physical processes (natural).

Insufficient air circulation between indoors and outdoors can lead to air stagnation, the formation of fungus and mold, and allergic reactions, heaviness throughout the body and poor health will become dubious “bonuses” in a room without ventilation.

The main types used in private homes are natural and forced, the distinctive features of which are the use (forced) of additional equipment, or ventilation using physical processes (natural).

Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation

The main advantage of natural ventilation is the simplicity and low cost of constructing the system, while forced ventilation can boast of more efficient and high-quality work.

Along with a number of undeniable advantages - low cost, ease of implementation - natural ventilation also has disadvantages, which, by the way, are significant. Many construction experts talk about the ineffectiveness of such a system and here’s why:

According to building codes, the permissible temperature outside should not be lower than +5 degrees, otherwise the draft will increase and a large amount of cold air will begin to enter the house. According to some data, heat losses from natural ventilation in some cases reach 40% of the total volume.
The situation is diametrically opposite to the previous point: if it is too hot outside, air exchange is minimized until air circulation completely stops.
There is no way to treat the air coming from the street. The environmental situation in the country and in the world leaves much to be desired. Clean air is more of a luxury than an ordinary thing. Untreated and unpurified air can cause many problems.
Ventilation in the room has limited adjustment. While it is still possible to reduce air exchange by tightly closing windows and doors, it is no longer possible to significantly increase it.

To create an effective atmosphere in the rooms of a private house, it is necessary to resort to complexity: the best option would be a combination of natural circulation with technological developments in this area (fans, filters, etc.).

Why do you need a hood in a private house with a stove or fireplace?

If a stove or fireplace is used in the house not as a decorative element, but performs its direct duties - heating the room, you need to take care of natural ventilation in double. For complete combustion of the fuel, a sufficient amount of oxidizer (in this case oxygen) is necessary. If there is a shortage of it, the fuel will not burn completely, releasing carbon monoxide, which will enter the living room. Naturally, there is little pleasant or useful in this.

Ventilation device in a house with a fireplace

If there is not enough air flow, then in the warm season you can open the window - this will be enough. In winter, this trick is unlikely to work, so even at the construction stage it is advisable to run a pipe under the floor directly to the stove or fireplace, through which the required amount of air will flow.

To organize a hood, they most often resort to the services of experts; this article is aimed at craftsmen who plan to carry out the installation themselves. Next, we will consider the main recommendations for constructing such ventilation, common problems and disadvantages.

How to make a natural ventilation system with your own hands

Natural ventilation works based on physical laws - due to the difference between warm air indoors and cold air outside (warm air is lighter) as well as pressure differences. Based on this, we came up with a simple design that is quite simple to make in a private house: in the center of the future home, most often in a load-bearing wall, a channel with a cross-section of about 130–140 mm is laid. Horizontal branches with a diameter of 100–100 mm are drawn from it into the rooms of the house.

Diagram and design of a system with a ventilation duct

Ventilation system design

Correct installation

Ventilation duct in the wall

To organize the wiring, plastic pipes are used. Then physics comes into play - warmer room air is under pressure and is drawn out due to traction force, colder street air enters the rooms through specially made channels, or naturally (doorways, open windows, etc.).

Placement of supply ducts in the wall

The thickness of the walls of the exhaust duct must be at least one and a half bricks. Otherwise, the air in it will quickly cool and the reverse process will occur - the air will not be drawn out, but will flow into the rooms.
The pipe at the outlet of the exhaust duct on the roof must be higher than the ridge. Otherwise, roof turbulence will interfere with the normal operation of the traction.

Bringing the system to the street

The main flow channel, as described above, is done in a standard manner. But the influx of fresh air coming from the street can be organized in two ways - either by making flow channels in the window sills, or by making gaps in the windows. When choosing the second method, it is better to use metal-plastic windows, which have one competitive advantage over wooden ones - an increased level of sound insulation. These measures will be enough to ventilate the house to the required extent.

If we talk about the advantage of using natural ventilation in a private house over forced ventilation (filters, radiators, etc.), you need to focus on two points - noise and air frequency.

Natural ventilation does not require additional equipment (at least, you can do without it). This means that there will be no extraneous noise in the house from operating fans and radiators.

Many people, when installing air purifying filters, forget that they require constant replacement. After prolonged use, the filter becomes dirty and the air passing through it is not cleaned, but is supplied with an additional dose of dust and other substances, making it even more polluted. There is no need to control air exchange during natural ventilation - especially since some of the large particles coming into the house from the street along with the air settle on the window sills, where they can be easily removed with a damp cloth. And if we assume that wet cleaning is carried out in the house regularly, then this should not cause any additional inconvenience.

Video: how to arrange a natural hood

Don't forget about the air conditioning system. A properly organized tandem of natural, forced ventilation and air conditioning will make life in the house comfortable and safe for health.published

A large country house is the dream of many families. But in order for the building to be comfortable for living, it is necessary to provide for the presence of all necessary communications in it at the design stage. One of them is ventilation.

An established air exchange system in the house will provide:

supply of oxygen to the premises;
protecting rooms from dampness, mold and mildew;
comfortable living conditions and optimal sanitary conditions for human life.

Which rooms need ventilation?

For normal life, a person needs pure oxygen. Therefore, its supply should be ensured in living rooms, such as the bedroom, living room, and children's room. Service rooms in the house (bathroom, etc.) also need constant circulation. Here there is often high humidity and accumulation of odors that need to be removed outside. Ventilation of these premises will reduce the formation of dust, dirt, excessive stuffiness, condensation, the spread of harmful microorganisms, and mold.

Ventilation system, methods of organization

There are two main types of air exchange arrangement in residential buildings:

natural (natural);
mechanical (forced).

Features of the arrangement and principle of operation of natural ventilation of a private house

Natural air exchange in residential buildings is carried out based on the difference in pressure inside and outside the house, as well as the effect of wind on the building. How it works?

The temperature inside the house is higher than outside, so the oxygen there has a lighter structure. Thanks to this, he climbs the shafts and goes out into the street. A vacuum arises in the room, which draws fresh air from the street through the openings in the building envelope. The incoming masses have a heavy structure, so they are located at the bottom of the premises. Under their influence, light warm air is forced out of the rooms.

The wind accelerates the circulation of air masses. As the difference in temperature inside and outside the cottage and wind speed increases, the supply of freshness to the house increases. Previously, the places where it entered were leaks in windows, doors, and porous walls. But modern insulation systems, as well as plastic windows, are designed so that there are no gaps in them for air supply. In this case, the inflow is carried out through special valves mounted in the windows or walls of the building.

Waste oxygen enters the openings of the vertical ventilation ducts of the house, located in the kitchen and bathroom, and is discharged outside through them. Replenishment of fresh water occurs through ventilation (opening windows, doors, transoms).

Advantages and disadvantages of the system

Natural air exchange in the house has the following advantages:

efficiency. The movement of air flows is carried out without the use of additional equipment;
no accidents. The ventilation design is extremely simple, does not depend on the power supply, and does not require regular maintenance;
quiet operation;
Possibility of combination with filtration and air conditioning systems.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation is poor air exchange, which leads to the formation of condensation, the accumulation of unpleasant odors, and the occurrence of mold and mildew. This threatens not only the gradual destruction of the house, but also the health of the people living in it.

The natural ventilation system does not allow you to regulate the volume of air removed and supplied to the premises. The recycled stream either does not have time to be discharged outside, or is removed too quickly, causing heat loss in the house. In the summer, when the temperature inside and outside the house is almost the same, the draft disappears and the air movement in the system stops. Therefore, natural circulation is practically not used in modern house construction. It is used in combination with a mechanical system.

Forced ventilation - features, types

This is an artificially organized system in which the movement of oxygen is carried out through the use of injection devices (fans, pumps, compressors). It is used in private buildings where natural ventilation is not provided or does not work. Advantages of mechanical organization:

works autonomously, regardless of weather conditions (pressure, temperature, wind);
allows you to prepare the air supplied to the premises to a comfortable state (heat/cool, humidify/dry, purify).

Disadvantages of the forced scheme for mansions:

significant costs for setting up the system, purchasing equipment, paying for electricity;
the need for regular maintenance.

Mechanical air exchange in a private house can be arranged in several ways. There are different types of ventilation:

supply - provides forced supply from the outside;
exhaust - removes the processed flow from the premises mechanically;
supply and exhaust - inflow and supply in the house are organized artificially.

Supply ventilation in a private house

This system is designed to replace exhaust air in the house with fresh air. It consists of:

air intake;
heating and cooling devices;
cleaning filters;
devices supplying air to rooms;
sound-absorbing devices.

Through the air valve, clean air enters the system, is subject to certain processing, filtered, and, using a fan, is distributed throughout the rooms in the house. Getting into the rooms, it displaces the waste stream. The supplied air can be additionally cooled or heated.

Supply ventilation systems are:

duct - air circulation is carried out through pipes;
channelless - the flow is supplied to the room through holes in the walls and windows.

According to the device method, they are distinguished:

stacked ventilation systems consisting of separate units connected by one air duct;
monoblock - all devices are collected in one compact housing.

Supply installation schemes have the following advantages:

the ability to regulate the temperature and volume of oxygen supplied;
compact dimensions;
functionality (they have additional devices for cleaning, heating, cooling the supplied air);
ease of installation and maintenance.

The disadvantages of this type of ventilation can be identified:

noisiness. During operation, the system units produce sounds, so it is necessary to provide a noise suppressor and install the equipment away from the living rooms in the house;
the need for space to install all its elements (this will be required when installing a typesetting system);
need for regular maintenance.

Exhaust ventilation in a private house

When installing this system, clean air enters the rooms through windows, doors, and special valves, and exhaust air is removed using exhaust fans. These devices are installed in the most problematic areas of the house (kitchen, bathroom); they come in wall and duct types.

Pros of this installation:

control of the volume of exhaust air;
independence from environmental conditions;
ease of installation.

Among the disadvantages of the system:

inability to control the amount of air supplied to the house;
costs for the purchase of equipment, electricity;
the need for regular maintenance.

Ventilation using supply and exhaust units

How to make ventilation in a private house with metal-plastic windows, finished with modern thermal insulation materials? To do this, you need a high-quality system that allows you to supply fresh air and remove exhaust air automatically. Air handling units will solve this problem.

They provide for the organization of two parallel flows:

for exhaust air removal;
for serving fresh.

These installations allow you to regulate the volume of output and supply flows, allowing you to maintain an optimal level of humidity in the premises of the house. Main elements of the supply and exhaust system:

air ducts - intended for supplying and removing air masses. They form two parallel lines, consisting of pipes and fittings (tees, rotating elements). Air ducts differ in shape (round, rectangular), cross-sectional area, rigidity (made of aluminum foil, galvanized sheet, plastic);
fan - provides the pressure in the ventilation system necessary for supplying and removing air. It can be installed on the roof of the building, directly in the air duct, or on a special support;
air intake grille - through them, air from the street enters the supply channel. Also, these elements protect the system from foreign objects, rodents, birds, and precipitation;
air valve - prevents air from entering the system when it is off. It can operate on an electric drive, in automatic mode, and can also be equipped with electric heating that prevents freezing of the sashes;
filters - protect ventilated rooms and the system itself from insects, dust, and other small particles. They require regular cleaning (recommended once a month);
heater - heats the air supplied to the premises during the cold season. This device can be water (suitable for large cottages) and electric (used in small houses);
noise mufflers - prevent sounds from operating devices from spreading through the pipe system. They are tubular, plate, chamber, cellular. Once air enters them, it passes through special barriers (perforated channels, tubes or plates), as a result of which its intensity decreases. Installing a silencer is not always necessary. Sometimes, to reduce the intensity of sounds in the system, it is enough to reduce the speed of the installation and ensure sound insulation of the fans;
air intakes and distributors. The first serve to enter the flow into the system, the second - to distribute it evenly throughout the room. These elements are presented in the form of grilles and diffusers of round and rectangular shapes. They are mounted on the walls or ceiling of the room;
control system. It can be mechanical (represented by a switch) or automatic (operation is regulated by a remote control). Its main elements are thermo- and hydrostats, pressure gauges;
security system - represented by a set of additional devices that protect ventilation elements from overheating and power surges.

An improved model of supply and exhaust ventilation is a recovery type system. It ensures efficient circulation in the house without loss of heat. This ventilation system is equipped with a recuperator, which reduces the cost of heating air coming from the street. The influent masses are heated by the heat of recycled streams removed from the house. This is the most effective and energy-efficient way to organize air exchange in residential buildings, although it is the most expensive.

Gas ventilation in a private house

The presence of gas appliances in the house places increased demands on the arrangement of circulation in the premises. Impaired traction can cause poisoning from combustion products.

Oxygen is required for normal operation of gas installations. If there is not enough of it, the air in the room is discharged. As a result, reverse draft occurs, and instead of the chimney, combustion products enter the surrounding space. They can cause malaise, severe headaches, loss of consciousness in a person, and even complete respiratory arrest.

Requirements for ventilation of a gas boiler room

Air exchange in a room with a heating device running on natural gas must be organized in accordance with the following technical requirements:

there are no more than two gas units per chimney;
combustion products must enter the chimney from different levels (from a distance of more than 50 cm). With a single-level supply, a cut of the same height is installed in the channel;
To prevent soot and carbon monoxide from leaking into the house, the boiler ventilation system should be sealed. Processing of joints and seams is carried out with material resistant to high temperatures;
all elements of the exchange system must be thermally insulated to prevent fire.

Ventilation of the boiler room is constructed on the basis of the following calculation: air outflow = air exchange x 3.

Air supply = outflow + volume of oxygen required for the combustion process.

Methods for ventilating a gas boiler room

Air exchange in the room where gas equipment is located can be organized using:

natural and mechanical ventilation based on draft. Natural circulation is the result of a pressure difference inside the house and outside. During mechanical ventilation, draft is generated by a fan;
supply, exhaust, or combined ventilation systems, organized according to their intended purpose. Air forced into the room puts pressure on the exhaust flow, pushing it out. Also, oxygen can be supplied to the boiler room naturally and removed mechanically. A combined (supply and exhaust) system will allow you to organize the ventilation of the room automatically, which works effectively in any weather, since the supply and exhaust are carried out mechanically;
channelless or channel (depending on the design of the cottage). In the first case, the boiler room is connected through holes to another room, from where the waste stream is discharged into the air duct. In the second case, a complex system of pipes is laid to ensure exchange in all rooms of the house.

Advice: to improve the natural ventilation of a gas boiler room, it is better to additionally install an exhaust fan, which will ensure the movement of air masses in the absence of draft.

Closed-type heating devices operating on natural gas are equipped with a coaxial (double) ventilation duct. Through its inner pipe, combustion products are removed, and through the outer pipe, fresh air is supplied to the burner.

If a gas boiler with an open combustion chamber is installed in the house, you should:

install a pipe to remove carbon monoxide to the street;
arrange a general air exchange system in the room;
arrange the supply of oxygen to the boiler.

Note: oxygen can enter the room from the street through cracks and gaps in windows and doors. If the room is sealed hermetically, you will need to organize a forced air supply.

Proper ventilation in a private home

Organizing oxygen exchange will ensure a favorable microclimate in the house, the health of its inhabitants and the safety of the structure itself. How to arrange it correctly?

Norms and rules for home ventilation

To create optimal conditions for human life in the residential and office premises of a cottage, it is necessary that 60 m 3 of oxygen (minimum 20 m 3) enter each of them in 1 hour. Comfortable air humidity is 50%, and its exchange rate is 0.5 m/s.

This can be achieved through proper system design. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the air exchange rate for rooms for different purposes. For a bathroom this figure is 50 m3, a common bathroom - 25 m3, a kitchen - 90 m3. Not only office rooms, but also living rooms and utility rooms should be ventilated. To form a calculated hood, it is necessary to sum up the air exchange rates of each compartment of the house. In this case, it is desirable that actual ventilation exceeds the minimum standards.

Designing an air exchange system in a house

Development of a home ventilation project includes:

selection of equipment;
drawing up a communications wiring diagram taking into account architectural, construction, sanitary, and economic criteria.

The purpose of this work is to develop a system that will cope with the supply and exhaust of air, within the estimated volume calculated for the house. The design must not only ensure uninterrupted ventilation of the premises, but also free access to all structural elements (assemblies, chambers). This is necessary for quick troubleshooting and regular maintenance.

For circulation to work well, it is important to carefully select all equipment. It should last as long as possible. The devices used should not spoil the architecture of the house, so it is better to install them in a hidden way.

When designing cottage ventilation, it is important that the system complies with sanitary and epidemiological standards. It must not only cope with the supply/removal of air masses, but also operate as silently as possible. Don't forget about the efficiency of the system. But the desire to reduce installation costs should not affect the quality of the installation. The main design task is to develop the optimal ventilation option for the house, taking into account all the above criteria.

The preparation of a project by a contractor begins with the formation of technical specifications. It contains all the criteria by which the ventilation system should be laid, as well as the customer’s wishes.

Calculation of ventilation in a private house

The operation of the system depends on whether the volume of air supplied and exhausted corresponds to the conditions of the house. This can be calculated using special formulas. The basis is the house plan, which indicates the purpose and area of each room.

First, the air exchange rate is calculated - an indicator that determines how many times in 1 hour the air in the room is completely changed. For most residential premises it can be single, for kitchens, bathrooms, boiler rooms - 2-3 times. It is also necessary to take into account the people living in the house.

The air exchange rate is calculated using the formula: L(air supply unit capacity, m3/h) = n(multiplicity rate for a specific room) *V(room volume).

Calculation of air exchange, taking into account the number of people living in the house, is carried out according to the formula: L = N(number of residents) * L(air intended for one person is the norm). When performing physical activity, one individual needs air renewal - 30 m 3 / h, in a calm state - 20 m 3 / h.

Please note: having calculated the air exchange rate by the frequency and the number of residents, they are guided by the larger of these values.

Equipment selection

Criteria by which the main system settings are selected:

power, performance;
operating pressure;
noise level emitted.

The speed of movement along the highways directly depends on their cross-section, as well as the power of the fan. But you should also take into account that the air ducts provide a certain resistance, which reduces the performance of the air handling unit.

Note: the productivity of the cottage ventilation system should be in the range of 1000-3000 m 3 /h.

At the stage of developing a feasibility study, the type, quantity and power of system elements are determined, its preliminary cost is compiled, and optimization adjustments are made. After this, a working design is drawn up, based on high-precision calculations of air exchange and heat release of a particular house. The devices and air distributors in it are selected according to.

Ventilation diagram for a private house

The air distribution network consists of pipes, fittings (rotating elements, splitters, adapters), distribution devices (diffusers, grilles). Based on this, you can determine:

fan operating pressure - it depends on the technical parameters of the unit, the type and diameter of the air ducts, the number of rotating and connecting elements, and the air distributors used. The longer the line and the more different connectors, turns, and adapters there are on it, the greater the pressure the fan should create;
the speed of movement of air masses depends on the diameter of the highways. For residential buildings this is 2.5-4 m/s;
noise level - depends on the cross-section of the highways and the speed of air movement along them. Quiet operation of the ventilation system will be ensured by large diameter pipes. If it is not possible to install them, use lines with a cross-section of 160-250 mm, equipped with distribution grids 20x20, or 20x30 cm.

According to the interstate standard (GOST 21.602-2003), the diagram must show all elements of the ventilation system. They are designated by certain symbols and signed.

To make it comfortable and safe for a person, it is necessary to organize its ventilation. This will not only provide a favorable microclimate, but will also extend the operational life of the structure itself. There are several types of indoor air exchange arrangements. The choice of a specific system depends on the area, design features of the house, the number of people living in it, and the budget. For it to work effectively, it is better to entrust its planning and installation to professionals with experience in this field.