How to make a mannequin according to your own figure. Do-it-yourself mannequin on a figure How to make a mannequin on your own figure

The best dress is the one that fits your figure perfectly and is not so easy to achieve. We would be helped by a mannequin on a figure. Our master class will tell you how to make an individual mannequin with your own hands from available materials.

Mannequin according to the figure: preparation for the project

Today in stores you can find mannequins for any size, even adjustable. The most affordable mannequins are fixed size mannequins. They are hard and soft. But none of these mannequins will be able to exactly repeat your figure, as they are made according to GOST sizes.

An alternative option is a sliding tailor's mannequin. On such a model, it will be possible to set the required measurements along the line of the chest, hips and waist. But from the minuses of this design, one can single out: fragility and not a perfect match of the silhouette. It would be great to have a maximum copy of your figure and use it for fittings. But the real mannequin - expensive pleasure Let's make our own

You will need:

• Scissors
• Long skinny T-shirt
• 2-3 rolls of tape (adhesive tape)
• Filler for pillows or blankets, such as sintapon
• piece of cardboard
• Food wrap (for the neck)
• metal rack

Put on a T-shirt, it should fit the figure as in the photo. Wrap your neck in cling film for protection.

Ask a friend to help wrap your figure with tape. Wrap it under your bust first, pretty tight. Then cross the tape as in the photo.

Finish the job by gluing the bottom of the cardboard. Place the mannequin on the metal stand.

As a stand, you can use, for example, a leg from a floor lamp.

If you like sewing rather than buying stylish outfits, you need a mannequin - a special tool for creating clothes that reproduces the human body in its shape. Have you thought about it, but store-bought products are expensive, bulky, with standard sizes? There is a way out - make a mannequin at home according to your own measurements and get a unique design that copies your figure.

The history of the mannequin

The mannequin in Europe was invented by an Italian monk in the 14th century (although blanks for modeling were used as early as the reign of Pharaoh Tutankhamun), but entered the tailoring business two centuries later. At first it was used by cutters in the Netherlands and France, then by tailors and merchants from other countries.

Initially, the mannequin was made from wood and clay, and then from wax, plaster, papier-mâché. Currently, doll mannequins are made of polystyrene or fiberglass, and dressmakers are made of polyurethane foam.

How to make a mannequin in a simple way?

Making a mannequin is a simple, but tedious job, so in addition to endurance, perseverance, and having free time, you will need an efficient assistant with a sense of humor.

Materials:

• Scotch tape - 2 skeins
• Food film - 1 pack
• Cardboard
• Scissors
• Marker
• Metal pin with a cross
• old t-shirt
• Cotton wool or its artificial substitute

Manufacturing process:

• Put on a T-shirt, cover your neck with a film, like a scarf. Cut off a strip of duct tape and wrap it tightly under your bust (around your torso). Swaddle the torso, starting to wrap pieces of adhesive tape first on one chest - along the inside to the shoulder, then the other.

• Wrap the surface of the chest with tape, wrapping it both diagonally and horizontally. Paste the place around the neck with short pieces of tape (without fanaticism, so that you can move it a little).

• Process the bottom of the product, capturing the buttocks. Mark the waist by leaning sideways to the right, then to the left, putting dots at the folds. Straighten up, connect the marks with a line. Cut the blank (together with the T-shirt) at the back in the middle and pull it off yourself.

• Glue over the shell, capturing the cut of the back, holes for the arms and neck in several layers. Fill the insides of the resulting cocoon with synthetic winterizer, cover its lower part with cardboard with a hole for the pin.

• Wrap the product soft cloth. Make a supporting leg by threading the rod through the cardboard and reinforce it with adhesive paper - a first-class mannequin is ready.

How to make a mannequin - the hard way

The initial stage of this version is similar to the previous one, that is, first the winding is done, and then the plastering.

Prepare:

• Medical plaster bandages
• Basin with warm water
• A bag of putty
• Two paraffin candles
• Mounting foam - one tube
• Skin, glue, batting - as needed

Working process:

• Wet the bandages and put them on your back, then throw them on your chest over your shoulders.

• Work by covering your waist, hips, buttocks with gauze. Make four turns and wait until the cocoon hardens. You can drink coffee or mineral water through a straw, asking a friend to hold the glass.

• After hardening, mark the waist and sides, then cut the cast along the sides and shoulders and separate the halves from the body.

• Walk with putty inside the shell, and after drying, treat it with melted paraffin.

• Fill both parts with foam, investing in upper part the back half of the hanger. Connect the shares with tape and after the foam has hardened, cut off the irregularities of the bottom.

• Sand the surface of the workpiece with sandpaper, then glue the mannequin with paper and cover it with batting. Make a riser, as in the first case. Everything - the work is done, it's time to create masterpieces.

To summarize - making a mannequin is not difficult, based on the recommendations and photographs, but to better understand the process, watch the videos below.

My daughter is now studying at the academy as a sewing technologist and they were given the task of creating a mini-collection (each student has their own theme) of three things and demonstrating it on large-scale mannequins (scale 1: 2.5). But .... the mannequins were not issued. Well, they don’t have so many mannequins on the farm. There is one plasticine form from which it was necessary to remove a double from papier-mâché. But ... she is one for everyone, papier-mâché in the amount of 3 pieces for each face is made for a long time .... in general ... time was running out, but we and my daughters did not succeed in catching the plasticine woman. She is still walking around. And here I also have a long-standing fixed idea - to have a large-scale mannequin! I matured for a long time, kept going around the topics of our craftswomen and collecting experience in creating mannequins. And then the stars came together and there was nowhere else to retreat. Mom scratched the back of her head and set to work. It turned out that creating mini mannequins is such a fun activity! First I'll show what happened, and then I'll post it detailed process creations in pictures. For those who want to repeat the "feat of Gastello" I will lay out the "patterns" of mini-dummies in two scales (1:2 and 1:2.5).
So, meet the "group in striped swimsuits"!

The very first question (and I just had a stupor in this place :-))) - where can I get the patterns on which to cut the isolon? Somehow I tried to build them simply by taking a table standard sizes, but ... it didn’t look like a “figure” of a mannequin at all :-(. And then - a brilliant idea from Lybcha-1965! I need to remove the lining from the mannequin! I have a standard mannequin of 46 (Russian) size on the farm. And my daughters and I just needed a size 46 on a scale!
The sheet was quickly cut and the sticking was removed from a large mannequin by the method of tattooing :-). I removed the trim only from half of the mannequin, because. I have it with different shoulders (apparently they howled it from a living person :-))), and then I simply mirrored it so that the mannequins turned out to be symmetrical. She removed the tracing paper from the sheet. That is, she transferred the contours of the "pattern" drawn with a pencil on a sheet to tracing paper. What for? I just thought that when I cut the sheet into A4 pieces, the fabric can simply lead, and tracing paper is paper, it will not lead and there will be practically no distortion. Now you need to somehow scan all this stuff ;-). I had no desire to draw "squares" of A4 size on tracing paper, because Well, you can miss the size and again it threatens to distort the patterns in the end. Then I took sheets of paper for the printer and glued them together with paper tape butt to joint into a strip of 4 sheets (I have a half front and half of the back just fit each on 4 sheets of A4!). I carefully drew the contours of the patterns on the tracing paper with a soft pencil, turned the tracing paper “face down” onto a strip of glued sheets and circled the contours of the patterns again from the “wrong side” of the tracing paper. The drawing was printed on the sheets as if from a carbon paper. She pointed it again fatter now on paper, put all the alignment marks and cut the tape. Everything, now you can scan without problems :-). Scanned, and in FS reduced to the desired scale. Then I printed it out and connected it according to the marks. The result was a set of molds for a mannequin on a scale of 1: 2.5.

Patterns in scale 1:2.5

Front

Back

Rack

patterns in scale 1:2

Bottom

Before 1

Before 2

Silhouette 1 left

Silhouette 1 right

Silhouette 2 left

Silhouette 2 right

Backrest 1

Backrest 2

Rack

In order to print the templates in the original size in the printer settings, when printing, you need to check the "Page filling" box and print without borders.

I started having problems with isolon from the very beginning, that is, at the stage of gluing non-woven fabric. Well, he didn’t want to stick in any way. Then, after joining the seams, the chest somehow pressed inward and ... well, in general, not that coat. I was saddened and sat down to think about how to increase my breasts. Thoughts flowed towards the pressed synthetic winterizer (as I do on quilted cups) and then ... urrraaa ... the thought came "Why not make the whole mannequin according to the principle of quilted cups ?!" After all, pressed with an iron and quilted stithepon is a very dimensionally stable and at the same time plastic material! No sooner said than done! And work began to boil. For each mannequin, 1.5 m of synthetic winterizer 1.5 m wide went. I pressed it in 6 layers through a wet iron. The result was a sheet of 0.5m x 0.75m. From it I cut out the details of the patterns without allowances. You need to trace the patterns very accurately!

Then we take a piece of coarse calico or chintz and glue it with knitted sheepskin coat. like this

We cut out the details of the patterns from the calico with allowances around the perimeter of 1 cm

We impose on them parts from a synthetic winterizer, sew around the perimeter at a distance of 1 mm from the edge (synthetic winterizer) and quilt the entire part on a typewriter. The distance between the quilting lines should not exceed 3mm!

All the details were quilted. Then we cut off all the allowances flush with the contours of the synthetic winterizer. We also cut out the solution of tucks. We put marks for connecting parts (they are on the patterns) and sew all the parts together with handles butt to butt. First darts, and then "embossed" seams. We slightly iron them, shaping the smooth lines of the future mannequin with an iron (especially the chest). I ironed my chest on a small foam ball ;-). And close the seams with strips of adhesive interlining. I did this not to hide the flow of the threads of the seams, but so that when the mannequin was bent around the circumference of the hips and waist, the seams did not become an angle, but lay down in a smooth arc.

So I collect separately the back and separately before. And I also sew butt to butt with handles to the "screed" - the silhouette. Here's what happens.

Then, again, manually connect the front and back along the sides and shoulders. For convenience, I first connected the halves of the mannequin with an elastic band along the waistline. Then, after connecting, the gum was removed.

The photo shows that I made one mannequin with pieces of handles (like on my big mannequin), and the other two without handles at all. The patterns on the links are given with handles, but if someone wants to make them without them, then you can simply cut them off along the armhole lines that are on the patterns. The silhouette pattern will also need to be tweaked a little by removing the bulges of the arms.
After connecting the halves of the mannequin, we put a wooden stick between the central parts of the screed - the future rack. My sticks are 1.2mm in diameter. I bought it in a building supermarket (across the street from the house ;-)). Stand height for scale 1:2.5 - 64cm. For scale 1:2 - 80cm.
The stick was pushed in, put out the bottom of the mannequin in the middle and fixed with a few stitches from 2 sides.

In the neck area, you can not fix the stick, because. there is a very small distance and it is clamped quite tightly between the ties.
Now we fill our mannequins with ordinary medical cotton wool. It can be small scraps of fabrics or syntapon. But cotton wool was the most convenient for me. Each mannequin took 300 g of cotton wool (3 packs of 100 g each).

At first I thought not to stuff the mannequin, but then I tried it and it turned out that it keeps its shape better, the "chest" does not sink down and the shoulders on the back become round and pretty :-). Here is a photo to compare stuffed mannequin and not stuffed. BUT! The mannequin, not yet stuffed, strives to take the shape of a circle from below. And our body is not round, but oval in cross section! :-)) In general, when the mannequin was stuffed with cotton, it became very similar to a big real mannequin

After stuffing, we close the mannequin with a bottom, which is also made of pressed and quilted synthetic winterizer. Attention! At the same time, DO NOT remove the stick from the dummy, because then it will no longer be possible to push it from the bottom of the mannequin due to a very small hole in the bottom (we simply cannot push the ties in such a small hole)! And we can put on a mannequin on a stand with an already attached stand only from below.

Now you need to fit the mannequins with a supplex (bielastic material from which swimsuits are usually sewn). We cut it out in 2 layers according to the pattern of the silhouette screed with allowances around the perimeter of 1 cm and from below 3 cm.

We cut along the sides and shoulders along the markings with an elastic stitch (I have this stitch forward-back-forward, but you can also cut it with a narrow zigzag), leaving an unsewn hole for the stand in the neck. We cut the allowances to a width of 2.5-3mm (you don’t need to make any cuts), turn it inside out, pull it onto the mannequin and ... we understand that an adjustment is needed. We remove and make changes. It turns out that for a good fit you need to round everything sharp corners around the shoulders and arms. And on a mannequin with handles, also reduce these same handles by 1 cm on each side. (Lower photo on the right)

We sew but to new lines, cut off the allowances, turn it inside out and again pull it onto the mannequin. Hooray! Everything worked out!

Now you need to pull the supplex on the thread from the bottom of the mannequin.

And here's what happened:

Mannequins are still put on auxiliary sticks.
Now let's deal with racks and stands.
The stand was made from boards bought in the same building supermarket. We bought 2 boards measuring 50 x 20 cm and my husband sawed them into 4 pieces 20 x 20 cm 1.8 cm thick. I made a hole with a drill in the middle with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the sticks. I sharpened the sticks on one side with a knife like a pencil. I smeared them with Moment-gel glue and also smeared the holes inside with this glue. And hammered the sticks into the holes. It turned out very strong and reliable. From below, on the sole of the coasters, I glued 4 leather squares in the corners so that the coasters do not slide on the table.

When the glue on the stands was dry, I smeared the pieces of sticks on the sides with it, put the dummies on the racks, pushing the auxiliary sticks up (thus taking them out of the dummies) and turned the dummies 90 degrees around its axis so that the glue strips came into contact with the details of the silhouette coupler. Everything, mannequins stuck to the racks tightly!

Now a little discussion. I think such a mannequin can be made in full size, because. it is quite light, but holds its shape well. Pins are easily stuck into it and you can even iron on it.
As a pattern, you can take a pattern of a lining. A silhouette coupler can be made using the margo_kt method, but with minor amendments.
What exactly are the amendments? When I began to outline the shadow from the mannequin, and then I made a control measurement of the bottom, it turned out that the error in width was about 3.5 cm. That is, the shadow in width turned out to be 3.5 cm larger than the real silhouette.

At first I did everything as indicated by margo_kt. But the errors were not only in width but also in the height of the silhouette. Then I decided to circle the shadow in 3 stages. First, I placed the lamp at waist level, circled a piece of shadow. Then she placed a lamp at chest level and again circled a piece of shadow, trying to connect the lines with those obtained at waist level. Then she again moved the lamp only now to the level of the hips and again circled the shadow, connecting with the lines obtained in the waist area. The main thing is to install the lamp exactly in the middle of the mannequin every time (vertical axis). After all these manipulations, a fairly accurate outline in height was obtained. And in width, I just removed the extra centimeters in accordance with the measurement of the bottom, under the ruler. Ie narrowed by 1.75cm from each side.

Every seamstress, experienced or, sooner or later realizes the need for a mannequin - for endless fitting and fitting of their creations. The easiest way to find and buy a finished model of the human body, for example, after the store is closed. But this is not always possible, and the prices even for used mannequins bite, not to mention new ones. How to be? You can, of course, use family members for the above purposes, or you can make a mannequin with your own hands using a simple master class. The advantage of this option, in addition to unconditional profitability, is that you can easily make a personal mannequin according to your figure, the figures of loved ones and even regular customers - the only question is patience and a place to store finished products. Having learned about the simplicity of this procedure, many needlewomen will immediately ask themselves a lot of questions about how to sew a mannequin with their own hands. We offer several ideas.

How to make a mannequin from tape with your own hands?

We will need:

• unnecessary t-shirt;
• food film;
• a lot of metallized adhesive tape from a building supermarket, at least 100 m;
• 2 cylinders with building foam;
• scissors;
• assistant - you can't do it alone.

Working process:

Undoubtedly, this method It takes effort and a lot of time, but the result is worth it.

How to make a mannequin for sewing children's clothes?

Such a mannequin is extremely simple to manufacture and is suitable, for example, as a model for sewing outerwear. Due to design features, in order to make a mannequin close to the real size of a child, you can take clothes a few values ​​​​smaller than the current size.

Everything, as always, did not start with that. There was no idea to make a mannequin, but there was a need to reupholster a time-worn sliding tailor's mannequin. There was a thin plastic mold under the upholstery. And then I remembered for twenty years as an unfulfilled desire to make Venetian mask. Everyone did not reach the mask, but the idea to try washable sleeves from toilet paper I came about three years ago, and since then these bushings have been accumulating. And then there is the search for new opportunities for photographing their work, and uninteresting purchased mannequins, and the cost of interesting ones ... In general, let's go. I’ll make a reservation right away, I have never dealt with papier-mâché or wire, therefore, most likely, I violated a bunch of rules for handling these materials. Therefore, I will write about those mistakes that I myself noticed - and you, when making your mannequin, will not repeat them.

I smeared the plastic molds of the front of the tailor's mannequin with hand cream and put a layer of pieces of A4 paper on the water.

I did the second layer of bushings like this: I separated the bushings along the “seam”, resulting in diamond-shaped sheets of cardboard, which I then tore into pieces (at that moment I still didn’t take my idea seriously, I was curious to know if the bushings were suitable for the role of mass for papier -mache, so I didn’t bother with small pieces and glued them in large strips.Later, my daughter repeated the experiment, making a mask, and it turned out that it was easy to glue small pieces and it was very easy to work out the details right away).

I prepared glue: for a glass of warm water - 1 tsp. glue for vinyl wallpaper (stirred until dissolved) and 4-5 tbsp. PVA glue.

These roll sleeves are very insidious and strive to dissolve right in my hands, so I tried them on the chosen place on the form, applied them and immediately smeared them with a brush with glue. The paper mass at this time is very plastic and easy to smooth. Glued in one layer with an overlap. The last layer is A4 paper.

I repeated the process on the plastic form of the back.

My mistakes: it was necessary to first fasten the halves in front with paper tape (as I did later with the halves of the back), then it would be easier to connect the finished papier-mâché forms. But the mannequin became much slimmer at the waist, I pulled it off during assembly :)

And the second mistake: the rolls are thick enough, so it makes sense to glue two layers, but without overlaps - it will be easier later when leveling with putty.

My model dried up in about a day, did not deform at all. It came off the mold very easily. Turned out thin and very durable. The fact that it is crooked is the result of my sloppy work, I checked the possibilities of the material and did not really care about accuracy.

But since everything worked out, I decided to continue making a vintage-style mannequin. I imagined what he might look like if I met him living in some flea market.

Now it's the turn of the connection. Immediately the question arose of decorating the neck, or rather its stump. Some kind of knob was needed ... and then luckily, my eyes caught on a glass jar with Chinese tea. The shape and size fit perfectly! It remains only to put the lid of the jar on liquid nails (Installation moment).

And I simply fastened the parts of the mannequin with a thin wire, since my papier-mâché was pierced with a thin awl. That's what I did. As I already wrote above, I pulled the waist, fastening the parts with an overlap.

Primed in two layers acrylic paint for walls (universal, washable from Leroy Merlin), a layer of universal building acrylic primer (also from Leroy).

As far as I know, it was necessary to process with Levkas for papier-mâché, but I didn’t have it, and there were some remnants of materials after the repair. Just in case, I applied a layer of PVA, I was afraid that my mannequin would get wet from wet putty. Dried well.

Then I leveled the entire structure with the usual construction acrylic putty. I leveled without fanaticism, because my mannequin is planned to be vintage and a certain number of irregularities should not spoil it (I will say right away that in some places it turned out even too even, it was necessary to leave more roughness).

Depressions on the chest (places for fastening plastic molds) smeared with a layer of centimeters one and a half - two - and nothing, the papier-mâché did not get wet. I dried it for a day, processed it a little with coarse sandpaper, primed it with building acrylic primer.

It turned out such a stump. He looked pitiful and clearly asked for something below the waist.

But I didn’t intend to drag the bottom of the tailor’s mannequin, and it was no longer interesting to repeat the whole epic with pasting the bottom of papier-mâché, so I decided to make a “skirt” out of something.

At first the idea of ​​a wire basket came to mind, but I did not find anything suitable. So I had to make this basket.

It took: two coils of wire (one hard - 2 mm, the second soft - 1 mm) from Leroy Merlin, wire cutters, round nose pliers, pliers and a lampshade for a floor lamp (also from Leroy, there is quite a large selection of lampshades for 120-130 r).

The lampshade was stripped off and received two wire rings (one with a mount for the ceiling).

I think that it would be possible to do without a lampshade at all and make these rings myself, but, firstly, I did not have a wire, the strength of which I would be sure, and secondly, a mount for the ceiling, resting against the table, fixed the desired height of the “skirt” for me, which simplified further assembly.

I drew the desired shape on a piece of paper, leaving more space for the buttocks. The rings are slightly bent. I fixed the shape with three stretch marks from the bottom and began to collect my basket.

First, I connected the rings in vertical stripes (I tried on, marked the selected attachment point with a marker, bit off a piece of wire a little longer than necessary with wire cutters, bent it, keeping the shape of the skirt in my head, bent the ends with pliers and fixed the attachment point with a thin wire). I got a frame with 14 vertical wires.

I arbitrarily twisted the decor with round-nose pliers - I bent the wire in spirals arbitrarily and sometimes connected 2-3 elements with soft wire

Then, in an artistic mess, I assembled all the elements, attaching them to the frame and, sometimes, connecting them with soft wire. It turned out such a lampshade basket.

My mistake: I had to use a softer copper wire or use brute force, because my hands did not like this stage of work at all. Male power I, however, tried to attract; she bent well, but, alas, she did not catch the direction of the bends.

The shape suited me quite well, but with vintage it turned out a little bad. Therefore, I brushed the entire structure with texture paste with a brush. It dried overnight and gave my basket a rather miserable look, but additionally fixed the components.

It turned out to be very inconvenient to remove the paste burrs with sandpaper, and the nozzle on the drill instantly peeled off the paste completely. I was about to be sad, but in time I remembered about the cork brush. And she did not disappoint! The paste was polished in just minutes. The sharp ends of the wire were smoothed out and the whole structure turned out to be very smooth and pleasant to the touch. Brass bristles also colored the paste, giving the wire the desired vintage flair.

Then I connected the torso with the basket. I drilled several paired holes around the waist and tied it with a thin wire. The design turned out to be stable, but just in case, I also walked with liquid nails along the inner contour of the connection.

Decoupage skills would not interfere here, but this, alas, is not mine. I painted the mannequin with two-component paint “Antique Silver” (American Accents) and it began to evoke thoughts of jousting and Joan of Arc.

That is, the mannequin was already quite associated with the flea market, but not at all with my knitted scarves, which I was going to photograph on it.

I decided to add curls to the decor. I drew the contours of monograms on sheets of paper, put the sheets into files, smeared the files with hand cream (just in case, so that it would stick less). I prepared a mass for drawing: 1 x 1 texture paste and wood putty (I have elastic FOR WOOD). I added water to the consistency of very thick sour cream and, using a pastry bag, squeezed the paste onto the file.

They dried overnight and very easily separated from the file. It turned out to be something between rubber and plastic (if I do get around to making a mask someday, it will be easy indispensable material for decor). I glued the monograms on the PVA, at the junction of the torso with the basket I made a smooth transition to the wire. My Joan of Arc began to resemble a strange cream cake :)

In some places she caused scratches, scuffs and chips on the monogram (nail, emery, knife). I painted my stucco.

My mistake: it was necessary to glue the monogram before the general painting, then I would not have to mess around with a thin brush later. The militancy in my mannequin had diminished, but the knitted scarf was still not associated with his neck.

I did not have time to get upset - my daughter came and took over the leadership of the process. She collected almost all the paints that were found in the house (including building, decorative, paints / contours for fabric and for glass), and for four hands we arbitrarily smeared and smacked with half-dry brushes and sponges for an hour. And here's what happened in the end.

If I were a decoupage artist, I would make the effect of old paper, if I knew how to weave from wire, I would make openwork weaving, but, in general, I liked the result. And most importantly - it was very interesting!

With a run, she wove another small mannequin in the Provence style.