Planting a peony in the ground in spring. Tag: When to plant peonies in open ground in spring. Choosing a location on the site

Majestic and lush peonies decorate our gardens in late spring and early summer (depending on the latitude of the region, the flowering time of peonies varies from late April to mid-July). In general, a single peony bush blooms for only 2 weeks, but by selecting varieties with different flowering periods, you can extend this beauty for about 1.5 months. I’ll make a reservation right away - the conversation in this article is only about herbaceous peonies and ITO hybrids; caring for these types of peonies is absolutely the same (we didn’t even try to grow tree-like peonies, since we heard from the experience of various friends that this idea is practically useless in the Moscow region).

There is no doubt that it is necessary to divide peony bushes in the fall (in the Moscow region, the time for dividing peonies falls in the second half of August - the very beginning of September). But what to do if, since February, flower shops have been selling cuttings of peonies with all their might, but in September you won’t see them there very much. I am often asked the question: “Is it possible to plant peonies in the spring?” I answer: “It’s possible, you just need to follow certain rules...” I’ll tell you about these rules first.

In spring, peonies are planted in the ground as soon as the ground thaws (not warms up, but rather thaws). The earlier the peony is planted in the ground, the more successfully it will develop further. If you delay planting and wait until the warm days of May, the root will begin to grow aboveground shoots to the detriment of rooting. In turn, young and juicy shoots will begin to draw the last vital forces from the root, but there is nothing for it to feed on - it has not had time to form young suction roots. The result is usually an unsuccessful experience in the spring planting of peonies; the depleted root, if it does not die, will not be able to form a proper root system and form flower buds for a long time.

Eat two options for planting peonies in the ground in early spring:

• 1st option ... If you know in advance that you plan to buy peonies in the spring, prepare planting holes for them in the fall, and in the spring quickly plant them immediately in a permanent place.
• 2nd option ... If the purchase of peonies is not planned in the fall, and the planting holes are not prepared (a properly prepared planting hole is the key to success in growing peonies), as soon as the ground thaws, you need to dig the root into any seedling bed before the fall, and prepare the planting hole during the summer , and in early September dig up the root and plant it in a permanent place.

Once again, I’ll make a reservation that in the spring peonies must be planted in cold soil.

If for some reason you cannot get to your beds at the very beginning of the growing season, you can plant the roots in pots and keep them in these pots until August-September. But temperature regime they need to create approximately the same as it would be when planted in the ground, that is, change of day and night temperatures is required , and night temperatures are desirable no higher than +5...+10, and daytime temperatures no higher than +14...+20 degrees. For rooting peonies in pots, unheated terraces and loggias are suitable, and not a window sill in a room. Under no circumstances should you keep containers with spring-planted peonies in a heated room! In the summer, place pots with peonies in the garden in partial shade, water them as they dry out. You should not be afraid that you are not always at the dacha, and the pots may dry out - peonies can go without watering for a long time, completely drying out the soil in the pots is undesirable, but this is better than the pot floating in a puddle. If, according to weather forecasts, there are only hot and dry days ahead, place the pots somewhere in strong shade and in thick grass, and if cloudy and rainy weather is predicted for a long time, then it is better to put the pots in an open place.

Now let's talk why do peonies need a planting hole, and how to prepare it.

Peonies can grow in one place for up to 25 years, although after 10-15 years the bush should still be divided, since on very old bushes the flowers become much smaller. The peony planting site should not be flooded by spring waters; full sun is preferable, but partial shade is also possible. The soil should be rich, well-drained and loose.

Planting holes for peonies must be prepared in advance (for autumn plantings in July, for spring plantings - in the fall). By the time of planting, the soil in them should settle and be slightly compacted. If you plant roots in a newly made hole, there is a high probability that when the soil settles, the root will sink deeper than necessary, and this will affect flowering.

Dig a hole 60 cm deep and 60-70 cm in diameter (when planting several peonies in a row, it is more advisable to dig a trench; the distance between the centers of the bushes should be at least 70 cm). You set aside the top cultural layer of soil, and simply throw away the deeper layers. In areas with heavy soil, be sure to pour drainage from broken bricks or crushed stone into the bottom of the hole (you can also pour expanded clay, but it’s more expensive...). Fill the lower part of the hole, approximately to the middle, with a mixture of humus (rotted manure or compost), peat, part of the high soil and mineral fertilizers. For one pit it is recommended to add 150-200g of superphosphate, 150-200g of potassium sulfate, and on loams it is customary to add slaked lime in an amount of 150-200g. I myself don’t particularly bother with the grams and names of fertilizers; I usually use those fertilizers that are currently on hand (the main thing is that they are not nitrogen, but phosphorus-potassium fertilizers; you can also use complex flower fertilizers). A handful of this, a handful of that, a bucket of rotted manure, a bucket of high-moor soil, a bucket of sand (my mother has clay!), a bucket of rotted peat, mixed in a wheelbarrow - and into the hole. Be sure to tamp it down lightly. This layer is a nutrient reserve for the future, when the bush grows and the roots reach the depths.

You prepare the soil for the upper part of the hole in approximately the same way as for the lower one, but you need to add three or four times less mineral fertilizers (sometimes they advise not to add mineral fertilizers to the top layer at all, but I add it anyway). Fill the hole to the top, maybe with a small mound; as the soil shrinks, the mound will be level with the main surface of the flowerbed. I make sure to stick a strong peg-mark into the center of the hole (we use pegs to mark all future planting sites along the trench). It doesn’t matter when you plant a peony - in spring or autumn - it can be difficult to remember where exactly the center of the hole is, and if there is a peg sticking out of the ground, you can’t go wrong.

If the summer is dry, then it is advisable to water the prepared planting holes occasionally to compact the soil.

Here you go, the holes are ready, they have stood, it’s time to plant peonies. Peony roots rarely come in a convenient, even shape. Basically these are uncomfortable and splayed out crooks. I am often asked the question: “How to position this brace?” In principle, it does not matter how the roots lie in the ground, it is important where the buds appear. Since the buds should be at a depth of 3-5 cm from the surface when planting, we twist the root in our hands and look for the most convenient location for it. If we cannot find a root location in which all the buds will be in the desired plane, we focus on the top one.

It is also necessary that the root lies in the center of the hole exactly where the buds are, and long asymmetrical parts of the root can be shifted to the edge. Note that it is better to place the root horizontally rather than stick it vertically (even if the root looks like a long vertical carrot with buds at one end). Dig a planting hole in the center of the hole according to the size of the root, plant it, filling it with freshly dug soil (no need to add anything, all the food is already in the hole). There is no need to water the planted peony roots unless the weather is very dry. Before planting, it is advisable to treat the roots with any antifungal drug (Maxim, Previkur...), as well as with any root compound.

When planting peonies in spring it often happens that Before planting in the ground, the root has already begun to sprout and has fairly long young shoots. How to plant it then? In the same way, into the cold earth, despite the possible last snowfalls and frosts. But, firstly, do not forget that the buds should be 3-5 cm from the surface (in the case of an already sprouted root, we set aside 3-5 cm from the base of the sprout, the rest of the sprout should look out to the surface). Secondly, we build a shelter over the sprouts sticking out of the ground. The best option– cover the sprouts with a five-liter plastic bottle with the bottom cut off and without a cork, lightly pressing it into the ground. We cover this bottle with white agrospan, the ends of which are pressed to the ground with stones or something similar. Under such shelter, young shoots will feel quite comfortable.

Here you go, We planted peonies, but how to care for them?? In my opinion, peonies do not require any very specific care. We care for peonies in much the same way as all other plants, but there are small deviations:

Feeding. Properly planted peonies practically do not need nitrogen fertilizers (older bushes can eventually be fed with diluted mullein in the spring, but in very small quantities and only in May), but peonies must be supplied with mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizers both in spring and autumn. Of course it’s better to breed mineral fertilizers in water or embedded dry in the root top layer, but since I don’t have time to measure grams per bucket, dilute, etc., I do this - in the spring I scatter complex fertilizer marked “spring” around the bushes, about the size of a matchbox per bush, in the fall - “autumn”, during the summer, if possible, I feed everything with wood ash, also scattering it.

Young bushes (planted from the current or last year) must be periodically treated with Epin-Extra or Zircon (spraying on the foliage according to the instructions), these drugs help faster rooting, increase the resistance of young fragile plants to various diseases, viruses and adverse weather conditions. Since I haven’t decided for myself which of these drugs is still more effective, I use them both, alternating treatments.

Watering. Peonies do not like constantly wet soil, so in the Moscow region they often get enough natural rain without additional watering. But, if the summer is still very dry, then the peonies will need watering. Peonies are watered rarely, but accurately - no more than once a week, but a lot. I usually do this - I just put the hose on the flowerbed with peonies (for a couple of hours once every two weeks), move it along it periodically, the water should not rush out, eroding the soil, but should flow slowly and be absorbed without forming standing puddles. Naturally, such watering is only possible on very loose soil. If the soil is heavy, then it is better to pour 2-3 buckets directly onto each bush.

Diseases. I am not very good at peony diseases (as well as plant diseases in general), I have not noticed any terrible diseases in my garden that lead to the complete death of the plant, to the spread of some diseases from a specific place throughout the garden (according to different types plants, for plants of the same species). Yes, plants are often overstressed after transplantation (especially if they are transplanted into open ground namely greenhouse plants), they also do not always feel good after dividing the bushes, many react poorly to sudden changes in temperature (very cold and rainy weather comes after a long heat, watering with ice water in the heat). Usually, after the plant is established in a new place, the immune system is strengthened and the plant begins to grow and develop normally.

I won’t write about how to treat specific diseases (there is a lot about this on the Internet), because I simply don’t know how to treat them. I believe that if the pre-planting treatment of the seedling and soil is carried out correctly, the strengthening of the immune system and the rapid rooting of the young plant are stimulated, then the diseases will recede, they do not affect strong plants.

There are exceptions, of course, they are initially weak, diseased varieties, which no matter how much you treat, they will still get sick (apparently this is genetically embedded in them, they do not know how to resist diseases). Such plants can sit (just sit, not grow) in the garden for years, get sick, but not die. Many people don’t want to bother; they quickly remove underdeveloped plants from the site and forget about them. But there are also many gardeners who are ready to constantly treat some weak, but very beloved variety, and often they manage to get good results - after all, plants also feel love and care.

You can eliminate (reduce) the spread of diseases in peonies in simple ways:

• - do not plant peonies too often, thickening of plantings contributes to the spread of viruses
• - follow the watering regime, under no circumstances water peonies with ice-cold well water in hot weather
• - if the place where peonies are planted is low, the groundwater is close, provide the bushes with very good drainage or even refuse to plant peonies in an area of ​​the garden that is unfavorable for them.

A little about peony propagation

The most common method of propagating peonies is dividing bushes. Peonies are divided closer to autumn; in the Moscow region, the time for dividing peonies occurs at the end of August - beginning of September. Adult bushes that are at least 5 years old must be divided. First, all shoots are cut off at a height of about 10 cm from the ground, then the entire bush is dug up, the roots are washed from adhering earth using a hose (pressure) and left in the shade under a canopy for 1-2 days. Peony roots are very juicy and fragile; this time is needed so that they wilt slightly and do not break too much when dividing. Then, using a sharp knife and wooden pegs, we try to divide the bush into parts. We trim with a knife, swing with wooden pegs and separate the cut parts from the main bush (the roots of peonies are usually very tangled, so dividing peonies is a downright creative process...). A proper division should have at least 2 buds, as well as thick and thin roots. We carefully cut off the broken areas (even them out) with a sharp knife and treat them with crushed charcoal (you can use a strong solution of potassium permanganate or pharmaceutical brilliant green for treatment)

If it’s a pity to dig up and chop up an entire bush, but you still really want to propagate the variety, you can grow new seedlings from cuttings with buds. This method is long, but true, and also does not deprive the mother bush of its decorative properties.

The timing of harvesting cuttings coincides with the timing of dividing the whole bush - i.e. very end of summer - early autumn. We find on the bush the shoot that is most distant from the center of the bush (if the bush is large, then several can be done, from different sides). Very carefully we rake out the soil around the shoot and dig down to the buds and the top of the roots. If the soil is very loose, then this is easy to do; if it is dense, you will have to sweat and be persistent, since it is very undesirable to damage the roots, so sometimes you have to rake out the soil almost a teaspoon at a time to accurately determine the location of the root.

Using a sharp knife, we separate the shoot with the bud from the bush, while grabbing part of the root (as much as possible). Sometimes it is possible to separate even a fairly decent section, and sometimes a shoot is obtained with virtually no thick root (it is very desirable that the heel of the thick root is still present on the cutting). On the main bush, be sure to treat the cutting area with crushed charcoal and return the excavated soil to its rightful place. With such minor intervention, the bush will not lose its decorative appearance, and you will acquire viable planting material.

Let's prepare the cuttings for planting - be sure to treat the cuts with crushed charcoal and powder the roots or just the lower part of the cuttings with dry rootstock. The bed for growing such cuttings should be very loose, well-drained, but not too nutritious (that is, there should be a lot of sand in it), you will add nutrition later with watering.

We plant the cuttings in the prepared bed; the bud should be located approximately 3 cm below the surface of the bed. Until spring we don’t do anything with the garden bed - we don’t fertilize, we don’t water... In the spring shoots will appear - the smaller the piece, the weaker the shoot will be, but the main thing is that it exists. Now we need to build up a good root system for it.

In the first year, we actively feed the cuttings with root-forming stimulants. As always, I like to alternate Epin with Zircon; fertilizing is best done by spraying on the leaves in the evening about once a week throughout the season. In the fall we add complex mineral fertilizers to the soil, and next spring we begin fertilizing with organic matter (diluted mullein, nettle infusion) or diluted mineral fertilizers with a high percentage of nitrogen. It is advisable to carry out three waterings with a difference of 10-14 days during May and early June. In the summer we again stimulate root formation, in the fall we again use mineral complexes...

So we grow cuttings for at least another season, or better yet two seasons, i.e., from the time of planting the cutting to obtaining a young, good seedling, in most cases it takes 3 full years (sometimes 2 years, if the root was already very good to begin with).

There is also a way to propagate peonies by cutting green stem cuttings, but I have not tried it, so I will not describe it.

And finally, a few words about what is better to plant next to peonies.

Peonies bloom at their peak at the very beginning of summer. After flowering, the bush looks quite decorative due to the carved foliage, but you want bright colors all summer long! If, for example, a peony bush is located in a multi-faceted flower bed, then no big problems arise - one has faded, the other is blooming. But the flower beds, consisting only of peonies, are simply green for most of the summer. I recommend diluting such flower beds with tall perennials that are not prone to strong growth and bloom in the second half of summer. I tried a lot, but, in my opinion, lilies and phlox perform this role best.

Benefits of using lilies:

• - the conditions for growing lilies and peonies are very similar: they do not require frequent watering and nitrogen fertilizing, they are afraid of damping off....
• - you can easily select high varieties of lilies with different flowering periods, so the flowerbed will always be blooming

Phlox bloom long and luxuriantly; choosing tall varieties with different flowering periods will not be difficult. Although the agricultural technology of phlox differs from the agricultural technology of peonies, their proximity is still quite possible. Since phloxes are quite moisture-loving, you will have to water the flowerbed more often, but this will not affect the peonies, since the phloxes will very quickly “pump out” the water from the flowerbed. Phloxes need a little more nitrogen fertilizing in the spring than peonies; hilling is necessary in the fall, but if you feed and hill up pointwise, this will also not affect the peonies.

How quickly the bush takes root and how long it will delight you with lush flowering will depend on how correctly the peonies are planted. If you were not able to inspect the pieces during the purchase (in stores they are usually packed in tight bags), be sure to do so at home. Before planting peonies in the country, you need to make sure that the acquired rhizomes are healthy, otherwise you risk infecting the entire garden. Also, before planting peonies, you need to check the usefulness of the cuttings, so as not to wait in vain for seedlings from obviously unsuitable planting material.

Before you decide where to plant peonies, you need to remember that at the moment of flowering, these plants overshadow all other flowers, so this luxury should be planted where the bushes can be seen from different parts of the garden. In addition, a place for planting taking into account the prospect of long-term residence of the peony. It could be decades. Unfortunately, flower growers often don’t think about this.

Where is it better to plant peonies on the site: choosing a planting site

When planting peonies in the ground, choose places where there used to be virgin soil.

It is important to avoid unfavorable precursors: trees, shrubs, large perennials that greatly deplete the soil. You cannot plant a peony immediately in the same place where another peony just grew. In such cases, you need to let the soil rest for at least 2 years or completely change the soil at the planting site. Where you want to plant peonies, the area should be free of tree roots, shrubs and large perennials. And don't forget that the bushes will grow over time. Planting in lowlands that are flooded for a long time by spring waters and heavy rains is unacceptable. To plant peonies correctly, as practice shows, you need to ensure water drainage from the garden bed.

Peonies can withstand flooding in the spring for no more than 4-5 days. When choosing a landing site, remember that the level groundwater should be at least 70-80 cm below the surface level. For peonies designed for long-term planting, more than 6-7 years, this norm should be 100 cm.

The optimal soil acidity is close to neutral. and on slightly acidic soils (lacty-flowered peonies), but preferable (especially for all types and species) are neutral and slightly alkaline soils with an acidity index of PH 6-7.5.

To plant peonies as proper agricultural technology suggests, the place must be sunny or partially shaded, up to 5-6 hours in the summer. Shading is preferable during midday, especially hot hours. For dark-colored flowers, such shading is even desirable - the flowers do not fade. It is important that the place is protected from the winds. It is better to plant peonies where the distance from the walls of the house and solid fences to the garden bed is at least 1-1.5 m.

Inspecting the cuttings before planting herbaceous peonies in the garden

Before planting peonies, the divisions must be inspected. At the same time, attention should be paid to its appearance and shape, parameters, freshness, number of buds and volume (weight) of the root mass. Also, before planting herbaceous peonies, you need to compare the divisions with optimal sizes(from maximum to minimum) by number of buds and weight for different origins.

What size should a peony division be for planting in open ground? You should not use too large divisions with a large volume of roots, much less replant entire adult plants. There is a complete analogy with the failures of bushes: the development of young roots and shoots is not stimulated, and existing roots are not able to provide adequate nutrition to the seedling.

The dimensions of the division must be sufficient to:

• guarantee a successful start of the plant in a new place, providing an initial supply of substances for rooting;
• stimulate the primary intensive growth of young shoots and a new young root system, the fastest possible transition to the consumption of nutrients from the outside;
• promote the formation of a completely new plant, ready to bloom for a long time and fruitfully in a new place.

How many renewal buds should there be? It is not so important how many regeneration buds a division has: 2, 5 or more. What is more important is the balance between the number of buds and the mass of storage roots. Even if in normal size the division will have 10 buds, next year usually 1-3 shoots will sprout (usually 1-2), and this is quite enough for the further successful development of the plant.

How many storage roots should there be? An ideal division has 3 roots sticking out in different directions and a rhizome with 3-5 buds. But only a separately grown young plant can look like this. In practice, when dividing an adult plant into several parts, this does not work.

Most often, the roots of a division point in one direction and the buds are placed not in the center of the division, but closer to the edge. It doesn't have of great importance for the subsequent development of the plant after planting.

Before planting a peony cutting, you should pay attention to some points.

The thickness of storage roots should be at least 18-20 mm. Such roots are formed in sufficiently mature, already flowering plants and are capable of stimulating the development of a young plant in a new place. Roots that are too thick, more than 30-40 mm, are also undesirable, since the old roots have already significantly exhausted their resource and are not able to provide a supply of nutrients for a long period.

The total length of storage roots for varieties of P. lactiflora should be at least 12-15 cm, and for hybrids - 15-20 cm. These dimensions are given for a division that has one root; with two roots, the values ​​​​for each of the roots can be half as much.

In other words, it is not the length of the roots and their number that are important, but the amount of the total mass of nutrients in these roots.

What healthy cuttings for planting peonies look like is shown in these photos:

How to prepare peonies for planting

A label with the name of the variety should be attached to the purchased cuttings. It is convenient to cut labels, for example, from metal coffee or beer cans. The name of the variety is extruded with a hard lead pencil or ballpoint pen. Such a label can be stored in the ground for several years and, when dug up, will help identify the variety.

Before boarding herbaceous peonies carefully examine the rhizome. The delenka has protruding remains of stems; a label with the name of the variety is attached to these stems. This is a common case for domestically produced carcasses. When planting such a division, the remains of the stems will rot, and through them rot and infection will penetrate into the plant. The stems must be cut to the base of the root collar. Rub the cut areas with ash. Attach the label securely to the section.

A very wilted piece of wood. If the cutting is severely wilted, it is recommended to place it in slightly moistened moss or damp sand for several days, moistened with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate.

The delenka has a mass of more than 250-300 g. The roots are very long: more than 15-20 cm. Such large divisions are often supplied abroad. When planted as a whole, such a plant develops externally faster in the first year after planting and often blooms in the second year. But this quick external effect is achieved due to the reserves in the root system of the division, and new roots develop weaker and complete renewal does not occur. In the future, such a plant may develop more slowly than from a normal-sized cutting. For the long term, it is better to divide such a division into 2 parts (this is sometimes possible) or shorten the roots.

An exception to this rule are plants with a closed root system: Such plants are carefully removed from the pot and transplanted entirely with a lump of earth into the planting hole.

Delenka with a very thick and old root. Such divisions are often obtained when dividing perennial plants. In this case, the root should be shortened to 5-7 cm and the cuts should be dried for 2-3 days as mentioned above. If you leave it whole, this is a variant of cutting with excess weight. In addition, in this case, often most of the new adventitious and storage roots appear at the end of the old root or in its middle part. The plant develops one-sidedly, one-sidedly.

Over time, the old root will die and the new roots will lose their connection to the rest of the plant. Shortened roots are also preferable because they stimulate the development of adventitious and storage roots directly at the root collar and more symmetrical relative to the root collar. And this is favorable for the further development of the plant.

There are places affected by rot on the root collar or roots. Cut out the affected areas and wipe the cuts with ash, leave for a couple of days before planting in moss or a cool, dry room so that the surface of the wound has time to dry.

This video demonstrates the preparation of peonies for planting:

When can you plant peonies in open ground: planting time in spring and autumn

Best time for planting peonies in middle lane Russia: period from the end of August to the first ten days of October. In the third ten days of August, after the soil temperature drops to 12-15 °C, peonies begin to grow suction roots, which contribute to the rooting of the planted division. Sufficient root regrowth requires 30-35 days and stops when the soil begins to freeze.

In the Moscow region, soil freezing begins on the 10th of November, which means that the optimal time for planting peonies is before October 5-10. As a result, on average, peonies can be planted within 35-40 days, starting around August 20-25. Accordingly, in the south the end of planting peonies is shifted to a later time, and in more northern areas - to an earlier time. These periods are considered classic for planting peonies.

However, there are times when peonies are planted in the Moscow region at a different time. And here there are some peculiarities.

Late autumn planting. If you have to plant later than normal, then after planting the peonies should be covered with an insulating layer of non-rotting materials. Usually, when planting peonies in late autumn, oak leaves and spruce branches are used for shelter.

In our conditions, a layer of 12-15 cm is sufficient, protected from rain and moisture on top with roofing material or film, but always open on the sides for ventilation. It is advisable to install a waterproof canopy on the shelter.

When planting peonies very late in the fall in the ground, a shelter over the prepared area should be built in advance, it should be thicker - up to 20-25 cm, and restored again immediately after planting.

There is another way to plant peonies in late autumn: you can first plant the cuttings in a large pot of 7-10 liter capacity. The pots are placed in a frost-free basement (subfloor) or stored in a shelter covered with a thick layer of peat or sand. In early spring, after the ground has thawed and the spring water has subsided, peonies from shelters and pots are transplanted to a permanent place in the garden. It is possible to keep them in pots in a shady place in the garden until autumn, and then transplant them to a permanent place.

The delenki were purchased in the spring. IN last years increasingly, divisions, primarily from foreign supplies. Peonies can be sold in two versions: with a closed root system - sprouted in a pot and with an open root system (divisions without soil).

A closed root system means that the cuttings were not just placed in a pot on the eve of sale, but had already taken root and acquired roots. In this case, the peony with a lump of earth is transferred to a prepared place in the garden. Planting peonies in the ground in the spring can begin after the snow melts and the melt water has drained and continue until the end of May (in the middle zone), or at least the entire season. After planting, abundant watering is required. For the first 2 weeks, it is advisable to cover the plant with a cap of white material during the hottest hours of the day. Usually this operation is successful, although the plant will lag somewhat behind in development.

A more difficult case is planting a division with an open root system. It should have a standard appearance: with normal buds, perhaps very swollen, but in no case overgrown. To successfully plant in this option, I recommend following some rules.

Purchase and plant only in the first half of spring, before the onset of warm weather. In our lane until approximately April 20th. In this case, the division has time for at least partial rooting in fairly cold soil before the stems begin to grow. At later planting dates, to protect the soil from heating, try covering the peony with a protective layer of covering materials.

The method of planting peonies in spring is used as the main method by flower growers in Finland. Rationale: Avoid getting the plantings wet and rotting during the first winter before the plants take root.

If, however, the cutting was purchased very early, it can be stored in store-bought packaging or soil mixture in the refrigerator until planting. At. When growing in pots, not all buds of the division awaken, and in the future, not all shoots from the awakened ones will grow and develop.

Try not to purchase open cuttings with sprouted stems and leaves. They take root very poorly and may die.

If there is a need to divide the peony on your site in the spring (due to urgent redevelopment of the site or transfer of plants to another place), you should start as early as possible, immediately after the soil thaws. Divide the bush as usual. The cuttings are dried a little for 1-2 days and planted in the ground. Plant development and flowering in this case are usually delayed for a year.

The delenka did not have time to be planted in the fall and was placed in the underground for storage. When can you plant peonies in this case? If there is not enough time and the place for planting is not prepared in the fall, when rainy autumn

Before planting peonies in the spring, the divisions are placed in slightly moistened moss or in pots and stored underground. In the spring, when the soil thaws, immediately plant it in the ground.

The peony was divided too early. The buds are not fully formed. When dividing a peony early, before August 10, especially in late-flowering varieties, the renewal buds of the divisions are small, and immediate planting will take place in unfavorable conditions with high soil and air temperatures that are not conducive to plant rooting. In this case, the cuttings are placed for ripening in damp moss or buried in sand in a cool place, protected from the sun, for ripening and planting in place at the usual time: early September - first ten days of October.. By this time, the buds will be fully formed in the stored cuttings resumption of shoots next year. And, in addition, after the soil temperature drops to 12-15 ° C, the growth of suction roots will begin, facilitating the rooting of the cuttings.

Small divisions. I grow small delenki, with low weight and 1-2 buds, in a shkolka - a ridge with nutritious soil. Then, after 1-2 years, I replant them in the fall with a lump of earth to a permanent place in the planting hole.

Another method used by experienced gardeners in recent years is to grow small cuttings, especially valuable varieties, in pots. The pots are left in the ground for the winter or stored for the first winter in cold but not freezing rooms. After growing in a pot, in the fall of the first, sometimes the second year, the plant is carefully removed from the pot with a lump of earth and transplanted to a permanent place in the planting hole.

Transplantation of plants. The best time to replant young 1-2 year old plants is spring or early autumn. In order to plant peonies correctly in the spring, as experienced gardeners advise, they must first be moistened, and in the fall the stems must also be cut and then transferred with a lump of earth to a prepared hole in a new place. When replanting in summer, it is better to wait until it rains. After transplantation, cover for some time (up to a week) with a plastic bag or lutrasil.

Transplanting an adult plant. This is an emergency and highly undesirable situation. All stems of the plant are cut off. Then they dig up the rhizome from all sides and, carefully wrapping the earthen lump with a layer of gauze, transfer it to a new place.

What is the best way to plant peonies in the country: planting depth of divisions (with video)

The size of the hole and the depth of planting peonies depend on your capabilities and goals, that is, on how long you plan to plant the peony in your chosen place, how close other plants are located and on the groundwater level.

Short term landing. Sometimes, when purchasing peonies, you do not yet clearly understand their decorative capabilities or have not yet prepared (freed up) a place for their permanent planting. In such cases, peonies are planted tightly in a temporary place, possibly on ridges, for a period of 2-3 years. Dimensions for landing can be within 30X30X30 cm.

If you want to plant a peony for a short time, for 5-7 years, pits of 45X45X40 cm are sufficient. Approximately the same pit sizes or slightly larger ones are sufficient for planting varieties of hybrid origin, since their lifespan is limited.

Planting for a long time. When planting milk-flowering peonies, intended for several decades, the hole is increased to 80X80X50 cm or even 100X100X60 cm. Increasing the planting area compared to the depth stimulates the development of the root system laterally, rather than in depth. This simplifies further watering (reduces water consumption and watering time) and. In addition, the shallow location of the root system makes it easier to dig up the peony before dividing.

Often in the literature you can find recommended sizes of 80X80X80 cm and even wider and deeper. Of course, such a pit is not bad at all, but consider your strengths and capabilities. Can you shovel more than half a cubic meter of dense earth? And will you be able to sufficiently enrich it with organic fertilizers and improve its structure? For such a volume of land, at least 10 buckets of organic matter will be required, not counting everything else, often no less in volume.

Planting in holes on ridges. For groundwater close to the surface, it is necessary to construct high bulk ridges of such a height that the distance from their surface to the groundwater level is at least 70 cm. In this case, the depth of the pit is limited to 40-45 cm, and the area can be expanded to 80X80 cm.

Watch a video on how to plant peonies:

Drainage in the planting hole for peonies

Many novice gardeners, concerned about how to plant peonies in the garden, are interested in whether drainage is needed at the bottom of the hole? Quite often in the literature for drainage it is recommended to pour a layer of crushed stone, stones and broken bricks onto the bottom of the hole. But such a recommendation cannot be universal and it is not entirely clear when it will be useful. If the soil around the hole, especially from below, is clayey, there is no benefit from drainage, like shards at the bottom of a pot without holes - the water still has nowhere to go. And if the soil around the pit is sandy, you do not need drainage, but, on the contrary, clay in the bottom layer of the pit to retain moisture there longer.

Local drainage in the planting hole when planting peonies will not protect the flowers from nearby groundwater. In this case, a common device is needed drainage system on a planting site that can lower the groundwater level. Or drainage grooves if the planting area is low. For the latter case, raised raised ridges have already been recommended.

How to properly plant peonies in spring and autumn: soil preparation

The planting hole for peonies should have two layers of soil. for various purposes. Soil mixtures for the lower and upper parts of the hole play different roles in the life of the plant. Accordingly, they must differ in physical and chemical composition. It is important to take into account the fact that in most cases we have to partially use the earth extracted from the pit. Its composition is usually far from what is desired. Therefore, organic and mineral fertilizers and deoxidizers are added to it. Exception: the site has black soil, then only the addition of ash can be useful. The boundary of the upper and lower layers passes at the level of the division planted in the pit.

The bottom layer of soil for peonies, located below the division, is the main food storehouse. For peonies, prepare a nutritious mixture of organic and mineral fertilizers with the soil you have. Additives:

• well-rotted 2-3 year old manure or compost. It should be at least 20-25% of the volume of the lower layer;
• clay (for sandy soils);
• 1-2 cups double superphosphate;
• 1-2 cups wood ash;
• 1-2 cups of dolomite flour (limestone, bone).

This mixture is needed to reduce the acidity of the soil. In the conditions of central Russia, soils have a constant tendency to acidify and their use is necessary.

The top layer serves to reliably hold the plant in the ground, protecting it from direct atmospheric influences (from frost in winter and daytime overheating in summer). In terms of composition, it should be well breathable and water-permeable, freely allow moisture and dissolved fertilizers to pass into the lower feeding layer and protect the rhizome from fungal diseases. No fertilizers should accumulate in it: all suction roots of the peony are located below, in the feeding layer.

Top layer composition: light sandy soils without fertilizers, ash and a small amount of limestone (dolomite) flour.

How to plant herbaceous peonies correctly (with video)

So, everything is prepared for planting: a place has been chosen, a hole has been dug, mixtures for the top and bottom layers have been prepared separately. A label with the name of the variety is attached to the division. To plant peonies in the fall or spring in open ground, when laying the bottom layer, you should compact it (just with your feet). This is necessary so that the division remains in place after planting and does not sink deeper. When compacted, the bottom layer should be located approximately 10-12 cm below the top edge of the pit.

Then a division is placed in the center on the bottom layer, trying to place it with the buds up, and place the storage roots horizontally or obliquely. Thus, the entire plot is placed in the top layer of soil. Its thickness is 10-12 cm. The buds of the division should be buried 3-5 cm into the ground. This norm is especially important to maintain for varieties of milky peony. If it is disturbed, peonies may not bloom for a very long time. They will tend to grow the rhizome upward, creating peaks around some of the stems. Having finally reached optimal option deepening, the shoots will begin to bloom. And hybrids bloom even when buried above normal.

To plant herbaceous peonies correctly, it is useful to place a little sand around and under the division. To do this, a thin sand lining is laid under the division, and sometimes a cylinder with a diameter of 8-10 cm is placed above the established division, into which sand is poured to the soil level.

The remaining part of the hole is carefully filled with the earth prepared for the top layer, trying not to move the plot from its place. Slightly compact and sprinkle with a layer of 1-2 cm of loose soil above the level of the surrounding soil.

You can dust the planting site with dolomite (limestone) flour or ash: this makes it visible until spring and additionally deoxidizes the soil, preventing the occurrence of fungal diseases.

So, you planted a division with a certain number of buds. And you expect that they are all on next year will sprout. However, according to many years of observations, this does not happen. All buds never germinate.

To better understand how to plant peonies, watch this video:

Give garden beds perfection and splendor - huge fragrant caps of flowers of delicate pastel colors and bright saturated shades pleasantly contrast with the delicate spring flowers. Traditionally, peonies are propagated and replanted in August, but spring planting Planting in open ground also gives good results, you just need to carefully follow the planting rules.

Peonies: botanical information

The Peony family (Paeoniaceae) includes only one genus - Peonies, which unites tree-like and herbaceous perennials, their common feature is huge colorful flowers (single and double). The color of the petals can vary from white to dark burgundy; among tree peonies, varieties with yellow petals have gained immense popularity.

Spring planting of herbaceous peonies

Planting material for new varieties of peonies can be purchased in the spring, so planting plants outdoors must be planned in the spring months, although the classic time for transplanting and dividing this crop is August.

If certain rules are followed, plants quickly take root and give good growth.

First you need to select a site suitable for herbaceous peonies, taking into account the following requirements:

1. Lighting - peonies prefer to grow in the sun and tolerate short-term light shading, so planting areas should be well lit.
2. Neighborhood - the plant does not tolerate close proximity, this is due to the fact that the bush forms a branched root system, and numerous leaves grow on it. Densified plantings lead to starvation of plants and poor ventilation, which contributes to the development of infectious diseases.
3. The soil is neutral; it is preferable to plant peonies on rich loams. The plant does not tolerate planting in wet lowlands, marshy and saline areas. The groundwater level should be low; the root system of peonies should not be allowed to rot during excessive rainfall and flooding.
4. Ventilation - be sure to leave enough free space between plants; the leaves of neighboring bushes should not overlap.
5. Protection from wind - peonies are planted in windless areas.

Preparing the site for planting peonies

The area chosen for planting peonies is prepared in advance; debris, stones and plant debris are removed from the surface, and weeds are pulled out, which are best burned.

A hole for planting bush peonies is prepared in advance by digging a hole measuring 60x60x60 cm, but these are average values. If the root system of the seedlings is large enough, the hole is expanded to the required size.

In wet areas, it is worth laying drainage at the bottom of the hole, but planting peonies in wet soil is not recommended. Then the hole is filled with a mixture of garden soil, humus, sand with the addition of ash.

You can add to the soil:

1. Granulated superphosphate - 250 g.
2. Bone meal - 0.5 kg.
3. inkstone- 1 tbsp. l.
4. Potash -1 tsp.

The pit is left to settle for about a month. The fact is that you need to wait for the soil in the hole to settle and compact, because herbaceous peonies prefer a high planting. In a planting hole that is not prepared in advance, the soil may begin to settle along with the plant, which will lead to the deepening of the bush.

The distance between planting holes is at least 1 m.

Planting peony rhizomes

After the soil settles in the hole, they begin directly planting cuttings or adult bushes. The rhizome should have 3-4 buds, but 1-2 buds can give life to luxurious bushes, but this will take more time.

The roots are straightened and the plant is planted in the hole. It is very important to plant correctly: on heavy soils - deepen the plant 5 cm to the level of the buds, on loose soils - up to 7 cm.

The rhizomes of peonies are carefully sprinkled with soil, carefully compacted with your hands; you should not trample the soil in a flowerbed with feet planted with peonies. Make a border around the plant from the remaining soil and carefully water it. It is useful to mulch the soil surface with a mixture of peat and garden soil. Watering is carried out daily for the first 2 weeks; this moisture regime is maintained until the plant takes root.

Too low or high rise peony bushes will equally negatively affect the development of plants. In the first case, buds will not develop on the bushes, and in the second case, the plants will not survive the winter or will freeze.

Tree peonies: planting in spring

Tree peonies can be planted in open ground in spring and autumn, but planting material can also be purchased in the spring. Many flower growers are fans of spring planting peonies; they claim that before autumn the plants have time to gain strength, so they are better prepared for the winter.

Just like herbaceous peonies, tree varieties need bright sun and nutritious soil. The planting site is chosen away from tall trees, fences and outbuildings.

Low-lying areas with wet soil are absolutely not suitable - peonies can grow in one place for up to 25 years, so it is worth protecting the plant from soaking and dampening of the root system.

Planting holes are prepared in advance, the average hole size is 70x70cm. The shape of the pit is a truncated cone; closer to the bottom the width is reduced.

For drainage, the following are placed at the bottom of the pit: pebbles, crushed stone, broken brick or ceramics, sand. The thickness of the drainage layer is 20 cm. The soil must have a neutral reaction; if the soil is highly acidic, chalk, dolomite flour or lime are added to the hole at a rate of 200 to 300 g.

Young tree-like peonies are planted on a cone, for which soil is first poured into the hole in a heap. The plant is placed on top, spreading the roots along the sides of the cone, after which the hole is filled with water. After absorbing moisture, the plant is sprinkled with soil, making sure that the neck is at soil level.

The distance between bushes is from 1.5 to 2 m.

Rules for caring for herbaceous and tree peonies

Event name	Description
Watering mature bushes	Once every 2 weeks, more often in extreme heat.
One-time dose of water per bush	From 5 to 6 liters
Watering duration	From the beginning of August, watering is reduced, and in September it is stopped.
Loosening	Carefully loosening is carried out to a shallow depth several times a season.
Top dressing	Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied during the summer. At the beginning of autumn, a one-time fertilizing with nitrogen-containing compounds is carried out.
Mulching	In spring during planting
	When outbreaks of infectious diseases occur, plants are treated with special compounds.

Why peonies don't bloom and how to help them

Very often, beginning gardeners complain that peonies planted in the garden do not want to bloom. What could be the reason for the lack of full flowering? There are several reasons for this phenomenon:

1. Violations of planting rules - many factors influence the lack of flowering: incorrect dimensions of the planting hole, inappropriate soil, deep penetration of the plant into the ground, wet or salty soil, gross mechanical damage to the renewal buds when planting the plant in a flowerbed.
2. Wrong choice of site - lack of good lighting, shadow from mature trees, high groundwater level, drafts, all these reasons can lead to a delay or complete absence of flowering.
3. Imbalance of fertilizing or insufficient quantity.
4. Peony bushes are too large for planting (transplanting) - each division should have 3-5 renewal buds, if there are significantly more of them, it is worth carefully dividing the rhizome into two parts.
5. Lack of moisture when planting - for about a month, do not forget to water the planted plants daily, and you should pay attention to the weather; in extreme heat, the amount of watering is doubled. Reduce watering only after new leaves grow.
6. During the first 2 years, you should not allow peonies to bloom, otherwise the bushes will bloom sparingly and reluctantly.

Care for your peony correctly, and it will delight you with luxurious armfuls of flowers!

In spring they give large fragrant flowers of bright and pastel colors. A bush can grow in one place for many years, but the time comes when the gardener decides to propagate his favorite variety of peonies. It is very important to do the work correctly so that the separated parts of the plant can quickly adapt and begin to grow. Gardeners practice planting peonies in open ground in spring and autumn, but it is preferable to schedule this work in the autumn. This article is all about how to replant herbaceous and tree peonies in the fall.

Why is it better to plant peonies in the fall?

Planting peonies in open ground in the fall has several compelling advantages that guide flower growers when planning work specifically for this period.

1. When planted in September-October, the plant has time to take root in a new place, grow stronger before the cold weather, and go into winter prepared and strong.
2. Autumn time promotes the rapid development of numerous adventitious roots, which helps the plant to better gain a foothold in the soil.
3. Properly carried out planting work in the fall contributes to the flowering of young plants in the spring, while spring planting cannot guarantee flowering in the current season.
4. Good rooting of peonies in the fall contributes to the formation of increased resistance to summer heat and drought in plants, which can affect them already in the next season.
5. By August aboveground part The plants enter a dormant state, and the replacement buds are already well formed.
6. The time of heat has already passed, thanks to precipitation, constant moisture is maintained in the soil.

Dates for planting peonies in autumn

When deciding to plant peony bushes in open ground in the fall, it is necessary to clearly determine the timing of planting, guided by several important criteria:

1. Weather conditions of the region.
2. The onset of frosts at certain times.

Important! Planting work should be completed 25-35 days before the onset of frost.

In each region, frost occurs in different time, therefore, it is not possible to name the exact time for planting peonies in open ground in the fall. We would like to note one more nuance - the hole for planting begins to be prepared in advance at the end of summer, and replanting is carried out in the fall.

Choosing a site for planting peonies

In order for peonies to grow and develop well after transplantation and delight them with abundant flowering every year, it is worth choosing the right place for growing the crop.

What we pay attention to when choosing a suitable site for growing peonies:

Peonies should be planted in an area with good sunlight; in the shade, the plant stretches, the color of the flowers fades, and the flowers themselves become smaller. It is allowed to grow peonies in flower beds with slight shading for several hours a day.

Soil composition

Herbaceous peonies prefer to grow in the garden on slightly alkaline or neutral soil (pH - from 6 to 6.5). Nutrient-rich loams are ideal for growing peonies.

Blow protection

The culture is very sensitive to drafts - peonies must be planted in windless areas of the garden or the plants must be protected from gusts of wind.

The height of the groundwater level at the site

A high level of soil water can lead to soaking of the root part of adult peonies and cuttings, so when choosing a place for planting, you must choose a high area with low level groundwater.

Bad Predecessors

Predecessors are rarely remembered, but this is one of important aspects successful growth of peonies in the garden. It is not recommended to plant new varieties in place of old plants; at least 2 years must pass after the bushes were transplanted from this area. Correct fit peonies in the fall should take into account that the crop grows and develops poorly after large perennials, uprooted trees and shrubs, which have depleted the soil for a long time.

Optimal distance from tall trees and garden buildings

It is not recommended to plant herbaceous peonies close to the walls of tall buildings, because in summer heated surfaces intensely give off heat, which negatively affects the development of the peony bush. The minimum distance from the walls of houses is 2 m.

Tall trees often shade peony plantings, so you should pay attention to this factor when planting and dividing bushes.

Preparing the seat

When a suitable area for transplanting peonies has been determined, they begin to prepare planting sites for the plants, and it is worth immediately planning the frequency of holes - one per 2 m2. With such planting, maturing peony bushes will have enough nutrients for many years.

Important! If planting a peony in the fall is carried out according to all the rules, flower buds in the spring will appear 2 weeks earlier than expected.

It is recommended to prepare planting pits for peonies when planting in the fall 1.5-2 months before the start of work. During this time, the soil should be saturated with useful substances, compacted and settled.

To plant hybrid plants for a long time without planning immediate transplants, you should prepare holes with the following dimensions:

1. Depth - from 60 to 70 cm.
2. Width - from 80 to 100 cm.

For ordinary peonies, when planting for 2-3 years, a hole measuring 45x45x40 cm is sufficient. This is how bushes are planted for which a permanent place has not yet been selected.

A significant distance (at least 90 cm) should be left between plants; up to 2 m2 of garden area should be allocated for each bush. With this planting, the plant will be able to freely form a powerful root system, and the free space necessary for air circulation will remain between individual bushes.

Important! Free planting of peony bushes prevents the development of fungal and other infectious diseases.

The depth of planting peonies in autumn should not exceed the soil level by 2-30 mm. Plants that are too deeply buried do not develop well, which negatively affects growth and annual flowering. The high location of the bush in the planting hole can cause freezing of the root system and death of the buds.

Important! If there is a high level of soil water over the entire area of ​​the site, the plants are planted on ridges so that the distance from the surface of the poured layer to groundwater is at least 0.7 m. In this case, the depth of the hole should not exceed 40-45 cm, and its sides may be up to 80 cm.

Many gardeners argue whether a drainage layer is needed when planting peonies in open ground. This is a purely individual feature, which depends on the soil lying on the site. If the bottom of the pit is lined with a layer of plastic clay, drainage will be of no use, because the clay castle will prevent water from seeping down. At sandy soil Even without drainage, water will quickly go deep into the soil, and the roots will lack moisture.

Local drainage is not able to properly protect peony roots from excess moisture; to solve the problem, you will have to dig drainage trenches or find another way to lower the groundwater level in the area.

To fill the hole, prepare nutritious soil using good garden soil as a basis, to which add:

1. Well-rotted, completely decomposed manure or compost aged 2-3 years - up to 25% of the volume of the planting pit.
2. Double superphosphate - up to 2 glasses per 1 well.
3. Wood ash - at least 1 to 2 cups.
4. Bone or dolomite flour- from 1 to 2 glasses.

The hole is filled to 2/3 of the height with this mixture, the layer is compacted and a thin bedding of quartz sand is made on top of it.

To cover the roots, prepare a light soil mixture with the addition of large quantity ash and dolomite flour.

In September, peonies are planted, placing the rhizomes so that the renewal buds are not buried more than 3-5 cm and do not protrude more than 2-3 cm above the soil surface. The cuttings or young bushes are carefully placed in a hole, sprinkled with soil and watered.

Important! If after watering the soil in the pits settles significantly, top up the soil, and it is also useful to mulch the surface with peat or leaves to retain moisture.

Planting tree peonies in autumn

Tree peonies are the most beautiful perennial shrubs with charming, showy flowers, it can grow in one place for up to 80 years or more, so the place for planting them should be chosen especially carefully. The requirements for choosing a location are almost identical to the rules for planting herbaceous peonies, but for tree-like peonies, places shaded from the sun for several hours a day are more suitable. Planting time is usually September.

Other requirements:

1. The diameter of the planting hole is at least 50 cm. The hole is prepared and the lower part is filled with soil 2-3 weeks before planting.
2. The distance between plants is from 100 cm.
3. Soil - made up of garden soil, peat, compost, humus and sand. All ingredients should be taken for 1 tsp. You can add bone meal and superphosphate to the prepared mixture. The ideal acidity level is 7.5-8 pH.
4. The depth of the root collar is no more than 5 cm.
5. Watering - immediately after planting, at least 10 liters of water should be used per plant.

Preface

Peonies are beautiful plants that can decorate any flower bed! But in order to grow healthy and lush flowers, it is necessary to provide them with competent care, which is what it consists of - in the article.

Autumn or spring: features of planting at different times of the year

Experts recommend carrying out all garden work on planting and replanting peonies in the fall. The root system of bushes becomes stronger over the summer, by the end of the season it goes into a state of rest and reacts to any actions with it more adequately than at other times of the year.

It takes longer for peonies to take root in the spring, as a result of which their flowering is delayed, it may not be as bright, and the plants themselves are more prone to diseases. However, it should be taken into account that the period from April to May is the same full-fledged period of regrowth of suction roots as August-September, therefore, subject to planting rules and proper subsequent care, gardeners have the right to count on a future beautiful flower garden of peonies planted in the spring . An additional argument in favor of spring work is the opportunity not to wait for autumn if planting material was purchased in winter or early spring.

Types of flowers

There are quite a large number of classifications of pions. The most common of them in origin and form.

Tree-like

Sino-European:

Japanese:

Herbaceous

Peony evasive (Maryin root):

Pion Mlokosevich:

Hybrids: intersectional or ITO

Choosing the right timing for spring planting

It is recommended to plant peonies in the spring months taking into account that the plants have a reserve of time to take root, that is, immediately after the snow grows, without waiting for stable positive weather. The optimal months for such gardening events in central Russia are April-May. For warm and cold regions, these dates shift accordingly.

The 2018 lunar calendar considers the following days to be successful for planting:

• February - 16, 18;
• March - 1, 15, 16;
• April - 25–27;
• May - 18–20, 27.

General principles and rules

Planting options can be divided into two groups:

1. Depending on weather conditions:
   • in open ground;
   • in a container with subsequent transplantation into open ground.
2. By method of reproduction:
   • dividing the bush - one of the most common options, possible from 5-7 years;
   • bush pruning;
   • root cuttings with a bud - used to obtain a large amount of planting material;
   • stem cuttings - a complex method that is not suitable for propagating most hybrids;
   • layering - a simple option, suitable for bushes from 5-8 years old;
   • seeds - a labor-intensive method, used mainly by breeders.

Important stage: choosing a location and preparing the land

For the successful growth and development of peonies, it is necessary to choose the right place for the flower bed and prepare the soil. Peonies are light-loving plants that do not tolerate strong drafts. The best place for them on your site will be the eastern part, preferably slightly elevated to avoid stagnation of water, at least at a relative distance from trees and buildings.

An important condition for these flowers is to plant them in soil with a moderate level of acidity, to regulate which you can add wood ash or sand to the soil.

Planting peony seedlings in open ground

There are several options for such planting work. If you already have ready-made sections, then the stages of work will be as follows:

1 – drainage layer, 2 – nutrient layer, 3 – top layer, 4 – seedling planting depth level

Using this method of planting peonies in open ground, pay attention to the quality of the planting material, since a correctly selected seedling is the key to the future beautiful flower. When purchasing a cutting in a store or market, examine it carefully for the presence of 2-3 renewal buds and at least 2 adventitious roots, the length of which should be at least 5 cm. The seedling must be whole and healthy, not wet and not too dry, without growths and nodes.

Spring planting of peony divisions in holes prepared in the fall (video)

Reproduction of peonies in spring

If you are going to plant your own peonies in the spring, then it is also worth considering several of the most common methods.

Reproduction by pruning

1. Dig the plant to a depth of 6-8 cm.
2. Using a sharp shovel, cut the bush horizontally.
3. Divide into pieces.
4. Plant in a separate bed and then transplant to a permanent place.
5. Sprinkle the roots with wood ash and cover with soil.

Planting root cuttings

This propagation method is suitable for varieties bred on the basis of the officinalis peony. Produced in March-April.

1. We dig up the rhizome of the plant.
2. We cut off adventitious roots whose thickness is more than 1 cm.
3. Divide the pieces into pieces 5-7 cm long.
4. We plant to a depth of 4-5 cm.
5. Water well.
6. With this planting option, the buds of the seedling will be formed within 2-4 years.

Propagation by stem cuttings

To such gardening work You can start about 2 weeks before the peony begins to bloom, that is, in mid-May, the time of implementation is early morning.

1. We cut off a strong shoot near the root collar that is not inclined to flower.
2. We treat the cut with wood ash or coal.
3. We shorten the cutting to a height of 9-10 cm, cutting off its upper part.
4. We plant it with the end down in a hole 4-5 cm deep in moist soil in a greenhouse or greenhouse.
5. We regularly ventilate the plant and spray it 2 times a day.
6. When obvious rooting occurs, the greenhouse is removed.

By layering

Such propagation of peonies is possible by two types of layering: ordinary and air.

Regular layering begins in late spring. The outermost shoots of the peony are tilted towards holes dug in advance in the ground about 15 cm deep, the tops are secured in the holes, they are covered with soil, which includes humus, and watered abundantly.

Reproduction of tree peony in spring by layering (video)

An excellent option for propagating tall peonies is the Chinese method. air layering, which should be started 2-4 weeks before the flowers appear.

1. We choose a bush whose age is between 5 and 8 years.
2. We put on a box or box without a bottom, the dimensions of which depend on the size of the bush.
3. Pour a soil mixture consisting of humus, garden soil and sand into the box to a height of 10-11 cm.
4. Water generously.
5. As new shoots grow, we add soil mixture with natural or mineral fertilizers.
6. In the fall, we remove the box, cut off new shoots with buds and send them for growing.

Seeds

When choosing this method of planting peonies, you should consider a number of features:

• peony seeds have extremely low germination;
• their enzymatic activity is at the same level, that is, even healthy seeds will have to wait about 2 years for germination, if you do not resort to additional measures (stratification);
• It is unlikely to obtain plants with outstanding decorative properties.

Transplanting peonies in spring (video)

Features of planting various types

Fundamental differences in the stages of planting peonies various types no, perhaps in the depths of the holes for planting low- and tall-growing varieties, but even if you purchased a very long section of some exotic peony, there is no need to dig a huge hole, just place the seedling at an angle, it will germinate just fine.

However, when purchasing planting material, you should carefully study the information about it. It is quite possible that the conditions of the region where you live simply will not suit him. This is especially true for intersectional hybrids.

In addition, soberly assess the landscape capabilities of your site, check whether certain peonies will fit into its appearance. It is also worth reading the reviews of those who have already planted the variety you like. Sometimes, in pursuit of particularly outstanding, for example, double flowers, gardeners are disappointed that the stems are not able to withstand such heavy buds falling to the ground, losing the much-anticipated showiness of the bush.

Care after work

Caring for the future bush immediately after planting consists of abundant watering and, if desired, mulching. Later it may be necessary to add fertilizers and fertilisers.

Important. Sometimes a seedling does not absorb the water with which it is watered. Try providing some shade by covering it with a mesh wastebasket. Keep in mind that the best water for watering peonies is rainwater, especially if the water supply in your region is very hard.

What to feed

During the first few years, the plant will have enough of the substances that you added when preparing the hole for planting. After the plant has fully developed, the peony's requirements will increase.

Feeding stages:

• In April - mid-May, when the plant is growing green mass, it is necessary to apply about 50 g of nitrogen-containing fertilizers;
• At the end of May, phosphorus and potassium are added during budding; in addition, you can use a solution of mullein, which is prepared in advance. To do this, dilute a bucket of manure in six buckets of water and leave it for 10 days to ferment, while the mixture needs to be stirred once a day. Before applying the solution under the bush, dilute it with water.

Much attention is paid to foliar feeding of peonies, which is carried out in the second year after planting. This method must be carried out in calm weather using a sprayer. It includes several stages, the interval between which should be about two weeks:

• The first stage is carried out immediately after the appearance of the “green part” of the plant - treatment with a urea solution;
• The second stage is after 14 days, and one tablet of microelements is added to the urea;
• For the third spraying, use 2 tablets of microelements, which are dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water, and Heteroauxin is used to stimulate the growth of the root system. Weak buds in the first two years of life should be removed with garden shears, because they will interfere with the growth of roots.

Organic and mineral nutrition

The third year of a flower's life is marked by colorful and abundant flowering and splendor. This means it’s time to use mineral fertilizers, the amount of which depends on the weather: in dry times the amount of fertilizing is reduced, in rainy times it increases. Stages of work:

1. Use of nitrogen-potassium fertilizers - 15 g of potassium and 10 g of nitrogen are enough for one bush. Fertilizers must be carefully applied around the flower while the snow is melting;
2. At the second stage, phosphorus fertilizers are added. The flowers are fed while the buds are setting - in no case should this stage be skipped, because it is important for obtaining luxurious bright flowers;
3. The third stage is carried out two weeks after the end of flowering. Fertilizers for peonies at this time are needed to grow healthy renewal buds, which increase the frost resistance of the bushes.

Considerable importance is also given to organic fertilizers, which are required for the formation of buds. To prepare them, use fresh mullein diluted in water. This mixture is infused for 10 days, after which it is applied to each plant. It is very important here that the solution does not get on the root collar, which can lead to “burns.” “Organics” are added only once a season - during budding. Do not forget that it is important to combine fertilizing and watering the plants, because peonies require a lot of liquid to absorb them.