Layout of an extension to a private house. Extension to a wooden house. Wooden, brick, frame outbuildings: projects, construction. Extension to a wooden house: projects, building technologies, choosing the best option Annex 6 by 3

When for some reason it becomes necessary to increase the living space country house, then the easiest and at the same time economical way to do this is to build a frame extension to the house. Its main advantage lies in the fact that it can be erected on its own in the shortest possible time and no serious carpentry tool skills are required.

In order for the building to turn out not only useful, but also beautiful, it is best to familiarize yourself in advance with how it should be built.

Appointment of the extension

In order to avoid the transformation of the extension in the future, it is advisable to carefully consider all the details of the structure being built even during planning. First of all, it is important to decide what is the purpose of the do-it-yourself extension to the house.

The first and most common option is an additional room. In fact, building another room according to the scheme will be similar to building a house with small area. The main thing is not to forget each of the structures of the new building should be properly insulated so that the heating of the room is effective and in the future it is simply to avoid heat loss.

This is not the moment on which you can save, as well as on the insulation of the foundation and the implementation of waterproofing, because otherwise mold will form on the walls and dampness will make it simply impossible even for a short stay in the room.

The second option is a bathroom or kitchen room. After looking at the photo of the extension to the house, you probably already understood that in this case the main thing is to bring all the necessary engineering communications in advance before starting the construction of the foundation.

It is also necessary to insulate well the places where sewer and water pipes through the foundation. Important point: in order to save Money, it is better to carry out all the work during construction.

Another popular option for an extension is a veranda. It can be open type or glazed. Most often used for recreation in the summer. Due to the fact that usually the building is not additionally heated, the structure is quite easy in terms of construction.

All that is needed is a roof on supports, as well as flooring with walls. During the construction of the veranda important point lies in the fact that it must necessarily be combined in size, materials used for construction and style with the house.

What material to choose for the walls of the annex?

Thinking about how to make an extension, first of all, you need to consider what materials will be used for the walls. With panel or frame technology, as a rule, it is a sandwich:

• Wind protection, that is, an external waterproofing film
• Rock wool or Styrofoam sandwiched between OSB sheets
• Vapor barrier membrane for internal protection

If you are interested in expensive methods, then you can masonry from any lightweight blocks. It can be foam or aerated concrete. When purchasing foam concrete blocks for a developer without any building practice, it is worth considering that this material has its own characteristics:

Firstly, in almost 90% of cases, even the walls made today from the most expensive foam concrete will be covered with a large number of small cracks in the future.

Secondly, all facades will need to be plastered with pre-selected compositions directly on the grid.

When choosing walls from various foamed concretes, it is worth paying attention to the fact that for any roofing materials, such as ceramic / slate tiles, all of them are not strong enough. For this reason, the ideal option for sheltering a building is corrugated board or ondulin.

Extension made of high quality SIP panels

To date, one of the most budget options self construction is an extension to the house, made of popular SIP panels, which have standard sizes. During construction, a number of nuances should be taken into account.

All screw piles with a wooden grillage, that is, the timber is always fixed in specially designated heads with large nails.

It is provided that all communications must be necessarily removed inside the panels, that is, the wiring of engineering systems here is of a hidden type.

Due to the fact that the roof lathing and ceilings are made of the same material, an equal resource is provided for all load-bearing structures.

There are no cold bridges, which guarantees the rational location of the entire thermal circuit in the future extension.

Since this material is, according to the description, self-supporting and structural, the beam that is used to perform their mandatory joining does not serve as the power frame of the house. It will be possible to achieve strength and absolute rigidity of the completed structure only after the installation of the last of the panels.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that extensions consisting of several floors are rare, so, as a rule, a minimum amount of lumber is spent on makeshift scaffolding.

And in conclusion, an important point: it is better to legitimize the extension to your house in advance in order to avoid unwanted dismantling in the future if the decision of the relevant authorities suddenly turns out to be not positive.

Photo of an extension to the house

Solving the housing issue with your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:

• a full-fledged living quarters - an additional room;
• living quarters with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
• utility room - its own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
• a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend your holidays with the whole family;
• car garage.

The basics of the technology and step-by-step instruction building an extension to wooden house.

Before choosing a specific building material and technology for building an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. It may be worthwhile to immediately plan the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live all year round - in case of family expansion or arrival a large number guests.

Types of extensions

There are several types of extensions to a wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:

1. frame extensions;
2. from a cylindrical bar;
3. from brick;
4. from cinder block.

Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that may affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:

Do right choice a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is built.

Do-it-yourself frame extension: step by step instructions and video

The frame extension has several advantages:

• the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
• it is built much faster than brick, cinder block structures;
• the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
• in terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, the frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.

NOTE. If you intend to build two-story extension, it is worth considering this option - light construction and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.

Preparation for construction

On the preparatory stage it is important to solve the following tasks:

• What will be the frame material? wooden bars or metal profiles.
• What type of extension will be associated with the main building.
• Accurately calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
• collect all necessary materials and tools.

First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof or as an adjoining building.

It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply adjoin the wall. You can make access from the house directly to it, if you make an appropriate hole and put the door.

The diagram of the adjoining structure to the house is presented below.

Structurally, this solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is standardly presented from rafters and support boards. For a longer service life, it is desirable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. The basis, as a rule, is the usual strip foundation.

Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:

• wall;
• roof.

The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. Preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice things to consider before starting work:

At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.

In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.

The frame is made of wood or metal. At the same time, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.

NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its drawdown will be several times higher than the drawdown of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".

As for tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other woodworking tools.

Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require joint efforts.

Foundation laying

The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the overwhelming majority of cases, during the construction of a house, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided, the foundation must not only be laid correctly, but also securely connected to the main foundation.

NOTE. If you are designing the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. You can make it after a while, and lay the foundation along with the foundation of the main building - technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single entity, which will ensure their reliability.

The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:

• reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for extensions made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
• maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and depth of laying;
• the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.

Most often, strip foundations are chosen for an extension, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. At the same time, installation features always depend on the type of soil. It is possible to lay monolithic foundations, made of brick or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.

Schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.

The technology for building a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.

Connecting the foundation to the main

This is the most critical step. who needs to be given Special attention. Two types of connections are traditionally used:

• "tape-tape";
• "slab-slab".

According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:

1. From the installation side of the extension, a trench is dug corresponding to the depth of laying the main foundation.
2. Further, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
3. The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house, for this a wood wedge is used.
4. The foundation of the extension is formed along the driven reinforcement.

Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:

• the width of the main foundation allows you to carry out the appropriate work (from 450 mm);
• the plate protrudes from the base (minimum 300 mm).

Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen the old foundation and thereby support the sagging house. Visual video instructions:

Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:

Installation of the floor in the annex

Correctly making the floor in the future room is important from the point of view of 2 factors:

• thermal insulation;
• surface evenness.

It is important to make a quality floor, especially if the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round use.

The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is possible to produce only a wooden covering.

Concrete floor

The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:

The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.

Wooden floor

On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors. It needs additional processing to avoid rotting, however wood flooring much warmer than concrete.

The sequence of installation of a wooden floor looks like this:

1. If an extension to the house is being built as a capital structure, then preparatory work for laying sand, gravel or expanded clay, as in the case of a concrete floor.
2. A ruberoid substrate is placed on the foundation.
3. Bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the poles, the length is cut in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate posts at a certain interval, or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
4. A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.

All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.

A good example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.

Frame installation

The next stage is connected with the direct erection of the frame structure. To do this, first of all, you need to install a strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness is 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.

The end result is a structure that looks like this.

Cutting a groove in the base can be done complete and incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel angle.

The lower strapping is performed in several stages:

1. The socket is mounted in a frame.
2. The overlay is nailed into the base.
3. The support stand is attached with a bracket.

The upper trim is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. The interval between vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be easy to lay insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.

The general design of the frame is shown in the diagram.

The walls are erected according to the following algorithm:

• Installation on the foundation of a pre-made lower trim. The binding is screwed with dowels.

Between the strapping and the foundations, a waterproofing layer is necessarily placed - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.

• Vertical bars are nailed to the wall of the house if the two structures are to be rigidly fastened. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner posts with temporary fastening are first made.
• Mounted vertical bars. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
• Next, the top trim is mounted.
• The last stage in the installation is the manufacture of holes for windows and doors.

ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately by installing all the beams on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element with temporary cuts.

Assembly of the roof and its docking with the main roof

Installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.

V general view finished structure can be schematically represented as follows.

After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be dismantled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while before acute angle it is important to put an additional beam (shown by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection during snowfalls, so they are also called anti-snow supports.

The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:

1. The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper trim of the frame.
2. The upper end of the rafters is connected to the purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or mounted directly on the roof rafters.

Video editing features

NOTE. It is not necessary to connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid way. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that provides free movement of the lower support.

Roof finishing and insulation

At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect to its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.

Construction and wall insulation

One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. The extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for economic purposes, it is important to create enough good insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the internal surfaces of the walls and ceiling.

Schematically, the structure of the wall can be represented as follows.

In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:

• finishing work inside the extension:
• exterior cladding of the building;
• creating a transition to the house;
• production of windows and doors in the building;
• all necessary communications.

Everything wooden structures it is important to treat with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature extremes.

Timber extension

The principal stages of the construction of an extension (filling the foundation, building walls and installing the roof, followed by insulation and finishing work) do not depend on the choice of a specific construction material. However, depending on it, their own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.

Foundation construction

In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame counterpart, respectively, the base is required to be more reliable.

A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a tape foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it be settled for at least 1 year.

From the point of view of simplicity and cheaper work, the best option would be to create pile foundation, which can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.

Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology

Walling

Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.

Mounting materials are used as follows:

staples and plates made of metal;

• brackets;
• steel corners;
• screws, screws, nails.

The technology of laying a round beam during the construction of an extension to the house:

Other works

The technology of building walls, insulation and finishing is not fundamentally different from that described earlier.

In the case of building a structure from a bar, two-story structures can be easily made. Of course, in this case, special requirements are placed on the foundation and floors.

Brick outbuilding

Brick extensions to a wooden house are built less frequently. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.

The most common use in such cases is monolithic foundation. At the same time, a brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of a second floor of the same kind or an attic. Installation of the floor and roof technology does not have fundamental differences from those discussed above.

cinder block extension

And another cheaper and faster option for building an extension to a wooden or other house is from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.

The construction of a cinder block structure is very fast due to its large size. building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, a veranda.

And finally - a brief video review of the main stages of the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house.

advantage wooden houses is what is possible different option architectural forms and extensions to the house.

You can order to any home standard project any outbuilding.

Types of extensions offered by our company:

Terrace- it open area, with a perimeter fence under a common roof with the house. It can be combined with the house, or stand alone. It is convenient to use the terrace as a summer kitchen, for relaxing in the summer. An open terrace can be on one side of the house or around the perimeter.

Veranda- This is a closed building (room). In fact, this is a continuation of the house in the form of an extension under a common roof. The veranda can be timber (from timber), frame-panel, also glazed. The closed veranda is always, in most cases, one-story, sometimes it is attached after construction is completed, when it is necessary to increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house.

Porch- this is a small outdoor extension at the entrance to the house, through which the entrance and exit from the house is carried out. A porch may or may not have a roof. Most often, the porch is completed with railings with railings and several steps. The porch does not need a complex foundation, more often they always use a columnar one.

Prices for an extension to the house and for work

Porch

Porch cost. Price for 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.

Porch 1.0x1.0m. 5.000
Porch 1.0x1.5m. 7.500
Porch 2.0x1.5m 15.000
Porch 2.0x2.0m 20.000

The cost of the porch includes:

• column foundation,
• railings with balusters
• canopy from the roof (such as on the house)

Outdoor terrace

Terrace cost. Price for 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.

Open terrace 4.0x2.0m 30.000
Open terrace 5.0x2.0m 50.000
Open terrace 6.0x2.0m 45.000
Open terrace 6.0x3.0m 65.000

The price of the terrace includes:

• columnar foundation
• railing with >>><<< (возможны различные варианты ограждения, смотрите ссылку)
• roof combined with the house

Possible options :

1. Decking
2. metal tile
3. Ondulin
4. Roofing material (in case it is a log house or)

>>> or extensions

Veranda closed from timber

The cost of a veranda. Price for 1 sq.m. 8000 rub (timber 100x150).
Price for 1 sq.m. 9.500 rub. (beam 150x150)

Veranda 4.0*2.0m., timber 150*100mm, 64.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m., bar 150*100mm, 96.000
Veranda 4.0*2.0m., bar 150*150mm, 76.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m., bar 150*150mm, 114.000

Prices are indicated for the construction of a veranda from profiled timber.

A complete set of extensions from a bar, you can see on an example

If you don't know what it is, check it out.

Veranda (attachment) frame

A variant of a frame-panel extension with 100 (150.200 mm) insulation is possible, with clapboard or block house finishing.

The cost of a panel insulated veranda is calculated separately and depends on the thickness of the insulation and the type of finish. Price for 1 sq.m. from 9000 rub. (50mm insulation (Isover, Ursa), vapor barrier on both sides (Isospan, Ondutis) lining on both sides)

Briefly: (insulation of walls 50mm, floors - 100mm (double floors, edged board 20mm and finishing floors tongue and groove - 28mm), vapor barrier on both sides, lining on both sides, roofing - ondulin, columnar foundation

Veranda frame (shield) 2.0 * 2.0 m., 46.000
Veranda frame (panel) 3.0 * 2.0 m., 64.000
Veranda frame (panel) 4.0 * 2.0 m., 82.000
Veranda frame (panel) 5.0 * 2.0 m., 98.000

Veranda frame (panel) 6.0 * 2.0 m., 118.000

Veranda frame (panel) 6.0 * 3.0 m., 172.000

Heaters for frame construction

Types of insulation used in construction and panel outbuildings to a country house

Extension projects

Veranda project No. 1
Price: 164.000 rubles

Veranda project No. 2
Price: 178.000 rubles

Semi-open veranda project No. 3
Price: 94.000 rubles

Terrace project No. 4
Price: 108.000 rubles

Terrace project No. 5
Price: 76.000 rubles

Terrace project No. 6
Price: 84.000 rubles

Note: prices are approximate (informational) and do not include the cost of delivery and accommodation of builders at the customer's site (delivery is possible construction change house, (3 by 2.3 m.), worth 15,000 rubles, remains with the client at the end of construction), a more detailed calculation on request.

Photos of outbuildings (terraces, verandas)

You can take a closer look at this one we built.

This

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of sitting people, sewerage in the house, or the need to close front door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

Do-it-yourself extension to the house can be made of wood, brick or in combined version, which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes in the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Extra room

If you want to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating provided to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a dwelling. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular - sewer pipes. You may have to separately conduct and plumbing.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, to think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that serves mainly to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, it is a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This building does not require special insulation, but you still have to carry out waterproofing for the foundation.

Foundation for an extension

The foundation for an extension can be tape, lined with brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To stop at one of them, you need to find out how each design is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about the construction of the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

• First you need to mark up and trace the place where the extension will be placed. This is done with a rope that is stretched across the terrain and secured with pegs.

• Further along the markup, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his house is built. It would be nice to fix the reinforcement connecting the foundations of the main building and the extension before pouring concrete.
• The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
• After the trench has been dug, it is further prepared. First, backfilling at the bottom of a sand cushion with a thickness of 100–120 mm is carried out. It must be carefully tamped.
• The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
• Further, along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the soil surface by 40–50 cm, since it should cover not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
• A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, and to its entire height.
• Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer has hardened, the next one is poured - to one second of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundation

• After pouring this layer, you can start building a wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. waterproofing film they are left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slip into concrete.
• Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can lightly tap on the formwork - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

• After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprayed daily with water to harden.
• After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
• Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material are used.

• The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor on them.

Video - building an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Column Foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is built from brick or concrete, as well as a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or sanitation in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

• The first step is marking the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

• Pit pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. To the top of the pit should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

• Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
• If the pillars will be built of brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to solidify, do brickwork.
• If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcing structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
• Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
• The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until completely solidified;
• After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued to heated bituminous mastic.
• In the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars, backfilling is done, tamping every 100-150 mm of the backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
• Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Extension floor base device

If a strip foundation is chosen, both a wooden and a concrete floor can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels suggests a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

• To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
• At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and compacted. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used to insulate the screed, poured in a layer of 15–20 cm.

• Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grate is laid on it. After its installation, a beacon system is arranged from above along the selected horizontal level. Certain rooms, such as the bathroom or outdoor terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface, for the unhindered flow of water that has fallen on the floor to the catchment system.
• Next, a cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using the rule. A day later, it can be covered with plastic wrap - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

• Floor beams are wooden blocks rather large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You can’t save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

• The beams are laid on poles or strip foundations, on top of the made roofing material substrate, and can be fixed to concrete different ways- with the help of through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersections are also fastened with powerful corners.

• They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls, columnar is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then additional concrete jumpers between the pillars will have to be made.

Frame walls

• The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the crown beams of the ceiling that were mounted earlier. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

• To connect the frame to the wall of the house, perfectly accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

• For reliability, all the bars are interconnected by metal corners.

• Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure stiffer.

• The upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
• The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of building a light extension to the house

brick walls

• Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, align it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
• It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also a brick house. To connect the extension with the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled two-thirds of the depth, through every two to three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement should not be chosen too thick, or it will be necessary to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
• If brick outbuilding settles down to wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from the inside of the house, which will hold it in the wall. Reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

• Before starting laying, a twine is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified with a plumb line.
• The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then laying should be done, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick laying will be enough.
• Having built brick walls, they are tied around the top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed to the flooring device.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of wall.

Covering the extension and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on upper part walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, after wrapping the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is the filing of the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which a heater will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension may have different designs, but basically a single-sided option is chosen, which is worth considering.

• This design consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. This type of roof is arranged quite simply, the main thing is to choose the right slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary in order for precipitation to winter time do not linger on the surface, otherwise they can simply damage it.
• Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or front part of the roof in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters must extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
• The rafters are also fixed with the help of metal corners.
• It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there will simply be nothing to fix the cross beam there. Therefore, it may be necessary to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams for fixing truss system and combining common coverage.
• It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will be laid on top of the truss system. If it will soft roof or flexible tiles, then solid material is laid and fixed on top of the rafters, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
• If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
• When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
• Roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the truss system and rising up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when docking, the top row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
• If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the frontal part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
• When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the insulation of the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

• Transverse logs from smaller bars are fixed to the floor beams.
• It is recommended to arrange a draft floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

• Further, the entire rough coating is smeared with a sufficiently thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
• Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.

• From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor is laid on it from boards or plywood.
• A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

• Mineral wool laid between logs fixed to a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
• One of the "warm floor" systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
• Infrared film laid on a thin thermal reflective substrate, and closed with a decorative coating;
• dry screed and gypsum fiber plates.

When the floors are insulated, you can proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

• For internal insulation walls use mineral wool produced in mats. It is convenient to lay them between the bars of the frame. This work is simple and is done quickly enough.
• When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened with a vapor barrier film, fixing it on the bars with brackets.
• Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, drywall or GVL - there are a lot of options, there are plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as a wall insulation, but its environmental and operational qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished with plaster or drywall from the inside, and insulation is carried out from the outside, but they do it differently.

Insulation, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, fixing bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then closing the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If there is no confidence in one's abilities, there is a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather difficult work to qualified craftsmen.

Outbuilding size overall - 6000x3000

Walls - foam block 20x20x60 wall thickness 20

Finishing inside - plaster

The type of roof is a complex envelope.

Doors - 890x200cm.

Windows are optional.

Foundation - strip foundation (calculated separately).

Paid separately:

Delivery

Warming - knauf (knauf) house 50mm; 100mm or similar (if any).

Pile foundation or foundation blocks

Installation of a soft roof

Floorboard replacement

window replacement

Door replacement

Replacing the floor with larch

Hemming roof extension

Extension of the boiler room to the house 3x4 price: 155000 rubles.

Outbuilding size overall - 3000x4000

Floor - dry grooved floor board 28mm.

The walls of the boiler room - foam block.

Finishing outside - finishing brick

Finishing inside - tiles

Finishing the ceiling of the extension - plaster.

The roof of the extension is a professional sheet painted 0.4mm.

Roof type - hipped.

Doors - 80x200cm.

Windows are optional.

Extension partitions - no.

Paid separately:

Delivery

Installation of a soft roof

Floorboard replacement

window replacement

Door replacement

Replacing the floor with larch

Hemming roof extension

Extension to the house 8x8 price: 190,000 rubles.

The basis of the frame extension - timber 150x100

Outbuilding size overall - 8000x3000

Floor - dry grooved floor board 28mm.

Frame - timber 100x100.

Finishing - impregnation with a composition from decay and fungus

Finishing inside - no

Finishing the ceiling of the extension - softwood lining.

The roof of the extension is a professional sheet painted 0.4mm.

Roof type - one-pitched.

Doors are not.

Windows are not.

Extension partitions - no.

Foundation - foundation blocks 20x20x40.

Paid separately:

Delivery

Heat insulation knauf (knauf) house 50mm; 100mm or similar (if any).

Pile or strip foundation

Installation of a soft roof

Floorboard replacement

window replacement

Door replacement

Replacing the floor with larch

Hemming roof extension

For extensions, two types of foundation are used:

Block:

1. Requires clearing the area for construction;
2. Digging holes for blocks up to 20 cm deep;
3. A pillow is poured (sand or gravel), after which it is carefully rammed;
4. Concrete blocks of 20x20x40 cm in size are laid;
5. Waterproofing with roofing felt is required;
6. The floor is laid on logs supported by blocks.

Pile-screw foundation:

1. Pile - a hollow pipe made of durable steel, treated with an epoxy composition with a pointed tip and blades on it;
2. Installation is carried out by screwing the pile into the ground manually;
3. Pipe concreting with parallel alignment;
4. Mounting the strapping.

Our advantages:

. We accept payment after completion of work;
. Delivery by our transport;
. We use quality materials;
. We work under a contract.