Homemade pump from a hose. DIY water pump. Do-it-yourself manual water pump: review of the best homemade products

The idea was born to make a mini fountain myself. The design of the fountain itself is a separate story, but this article will discuss how to make a pump for water circulation with your own hands. This topic is not new and has been described on the Internet more than once. I am just showing my implementation of this design. If anyone is too lazy to do it, then such pumps are sold on Aliexpress for around 400 rubles (price as of February 2016).

So let's get started. A bottle of nasal drops was used as a body. For those who are interested, I will write down the dimensions of some parts. So, the inner diameter of the bubble is 26.6 mm, depth 20 mm. A hole slightly larger than the diameter of the motor shaft is drilled in it on the back side, and a hole on the side for water outlet (4 mm in diameter). A tube is attached to it first with superglue and then with hot glue, through which the water will subsequently rise to the top of the fountain. Its diameter is 5 mm.

We also need a front cover. I drilled a 7 mm hole in the center. The entire body is ready.

A hole for the shaft is drilled in the base. The diameter of the base, you understand, should be smaller than the diameter of the body. I have about 25 mm. In fact, it is not needed at all and is used only for strength. The blades themselves can be seen in the photo. Made from the same box and cut to the diameter of the base. I glued everything together with superglue.

The engine will rotate the impeller. It was most likely taken out of some kind of toy. I don’t know its parameters, so I didn’t raise the voltage above 5 V. The main thing is that the engine is “faster”.

I tried another with a speed of 2500 rpm, so it raised the water column very low. Next you need to assemble everything and seal it well.

And now the tests. With a power supply of 3 V, the current consumption is 0.3 A in load mode (that is, immersed in water), at 5 V - 0.5 A. The height of the rise of the water column at 3 V is 45 cm (rounded down). In this mode, I left it in the water for an hour.

Passed the test fine. How long it will last is a good question that only time can answer. When powered by 5 volts, the water rises to a height of 80 cm. All this can be seen in the video.

Video

Separately regarding the noise. On land you can hear it quite well. Under water at 3 V in complete silence, the noise of the pump can be heard quite a bit. You can't hear him at all over the rushing water. So we can conclude that it is quite suitable for a fountain, and for others as well. I was with you SssaHeKkk.

Discuss the article HOW TO MAKE A PUMP FROM A MOTOR

Despite the affordable price and wide range modern pumping equipment, some primitive models can be made independently. And the point here is not only in acquiring technical skills, but also in a kind of rest, exercise for the body and mind. After reading this article you will know how to doDIY water pump.

About the advisability of making your own

The main disadvantage of factory water pumps is the need to connect to power lines. We must agree that in many suburban areas, especially at the beginning of construction, electricity is a rarity.

Moreover, electricity tariffs are constantly rising, and the owners of summer cottages know about cases of power outages like no one else. It is for this reason that every self-respecting owner should have at his disposal “spare” equipment for pumping water. Such equipment is useful not only when watering the garden - it can also be used at critical moments.

Pay attention! It is recommended to make a piston water pump (or pumping pump, as it is also called), because this simplest option water intake equipment. This requires only minimal technical skills and a small set of tools.

Operating principle of the pump

The housing contains a cylinder with a piston moving inside it. The cylinder itself has inlet and outlet holes equipped with valves. To facilitate pumping, a spring is installed between the lower valve and the piston - it will attract the piston.

The air in the cylinder is rarefied during the movement of the piston, as a result of which the inlet opens and water is drawn inside. Further, when the piston moves in reverse side, the valve closes and water leaves the cylinder through the outlet hole. The only engine here is the applied muscular efforts, and the performance of the device depends not only on them, but also on the volume of the cylinder.

Pay attention! A piston pump is unlikely to be able to provide a complete water supply to the site, but in emergency cases it can be used to pump some water, for example, to water the beds.

In most cases, wells of insignificant depth - Abyssinian wells - are equipped with pumping pumps.

Piston pump manufacturing technology

There is nothing complicated in creating a pump, the main thing is to prepare everything you need and follow the instructions below.

Stage 1. First, a cylinder is formed. This will require metal pipeø10 cm and 1 m long. To ensure smooth movement of the piston, inner surface the pipes need to be treated with sandpaper (for convenience, the latter is placed on a wooden stick).

Pay attention! It is not necessary to use a pipe with round, the configuration can be very diverse - from square to hexagon.

Stage 2. Brackets are welded to the cylinder, with which the pump lever will be attached. They need to be installed so that the lever fits between them freely. Metal corners are used to make brackets.

Stage 3. A hole is drilled in the upper part of the cylinder for the drain pipe. The pipe itself can be located either opposite the brackets or to the side of them.

Stage 4. Next you need to make a lid that would cover the lower end of the case. Subject to availability welding machine the end is welded with a metal plate, but it is worth knowing that the lid can also be made from scrap materials. This could be, for example, moisture-resistant larch, the strength of which only increases when in contact with water.

Step 5. The top cover is optional, but it is better to install it in order to increase the efficiency of the device. The lid will prevent the collected water from spilling. There are no special requirements regarding strength, so both wood and plastic are used in manufacturing, the main thing is to make a hole for the rod.

Pay attention! The hole should be slot-shaped, since the rod will move parallel to the lever.

a metal disk 3-4 cm thick, creating a difference in pressure;
a piece of rubber of the appropriate size, 5 cm thick.

Several ø1 cm holes are made in the piston, after which it is covered with an elastic band. Then, in the center of the connected parts, a through hole for fixing the rod.

Piston pump
1 - filter; 2 - column of water-lifting pipes; 3 - outlet; 4 - check valve; 5 - disc valve; b - pump cylinder; 7 - pump piston; 8 - piston valve; 9 - piston rod; 10 - water intake tank; 11 - balancer

Video - How a piston pump works

Stage 7. After this, you can begin making the rod. For this, a metal rod ø1-1.5 cm is used - one end of it is inserted into the center of the piston and screwed from below with a nut, the second is attached to the lever.

Stage 8. To make the lever, you will need an iron pipe ø3 cm, in the center of which a long bolt is attached. Once installed, this bolt will run between the two brackets. One end of the pipe is flattened and a hole is drilled in it for a bolt, with which the rod will be fixed. The other end of the lever, which a person will hold with his hands, is wrapped with insulating tape or a thick cord.

Stage 9. The inlet valve is a piece of dense rubber (its shape must match the cross-section of the cylinder). The valve diameter should be smaller than the diameter of the body, but larger than the diameter of the well head. A guide is attached to the center of the valve, which will return it to the body after each cycle. The length of the guide must be greater than the distance between the drain hole and the lower end of the housing.

Stage 10. The pump housing is mounted on the pipe. In this case, it is advisable to cut a thread on the inlet hole of the cylinder and the head of the well - this way there will be no problems with the connection.

Pay attention! The strength of the device can be increased by using additional supports welded to the body and attached to a metal frame lying on the ground.

A rod leading from the inlet valve is lowered into the hole made in the lower end of the housing, after which the piston is inserted. The pump lever is connected to the brackets with bolts and attached to the rod. That's it, the piston pump is ready for use.

Note that the pump can be installed not only in a shallow well, but also with its help to pump out water from a nearby reservoir. For this purpose, it is not the head of the Abasin well that is connected to the inlet valve, but a hose that needs to be thrown into the reservoir. In this case, the pump will not create pressure, which is why it will not be able to lift water above the level of the sewing neck. It is advisable to place a large barrel next to the pump and fill it - this will allow you to use water as needed.

If you have old car brake chambers lying around, you can also use them to create a water pump. The sequence of actions in this case should be as follows.

Stage 1. The brake chamber is disassembled, all holes in the body are carefully sealed.

Stage 2. Inlet and outlet valves are installed in the lower part of the body, and a hole for the rod is made in the upper part.

Stage 3. Rubber is used as a piston - it is clamped between the lid and the bottom of the chamber. The piston is connected to the rod with bolts (preferably through gaskets).

Stage 4. A bracket is installed on the side to fix the lever.

Stage 5. The lever is connected to the bracket, and one of its ends is connected to the rod.

The operating principle of this pump is practically no different from the design described above: after each press of the lever in the lower part of the housing, increased/decreased pressure is created, which leads to the opening of the valve at the inlet/outlet.

A little-known design that operates using the power of fire. For manufacturing you will need a sealed iron barrel with a capacity of at least 200 liters.

Stage 1. First, a furnace is built to heat the structure. The best option– a small brick stove with a grate.

Stage 2. Then a discharge valve is installed at the bottom of the housing.

Stage 3. A rubber hose is inserted into the hole on the top cover (it should fit as tightly as possible). A mesh filter is installed on the outer end of the hose, after which the hose is immersed in a lake or river.

Stage 4. Several liters of water are poured into the barrel, after which the stove is lit. The outlet valve must be closed. The heated air, expanding, goes into the reservoir. Next, the fire is extinguished, and the air, having cooled and, accordingly, contracted, will draw water into the barrel.

If desired, fire can be replaced with solar energy. To build such a pump, you need to perform the following steps.

Stage 1. A grid of metal tubes is made, there should be only one exit. Next, the finished grille is coated with black paint.

Stage 2. The inlet is connected to an aluminum can.

Stage 3. The can lid is equipped with inlet and outlet valves. Nipples from old car tires are ideal for this.

Stage 4. A small rubber container, for example, a car inner tube, is connected to the grid terminal inside the can.

Stage 5. The outlet on the cover is connected to a hose leading to a reservoir or well. The other end of the hose is taken out of the reservoir, equipped with a watering can tip and installed above the grate.

This pump works as follows. The grate heats up, and the air in it expands and inflates the rubber container. As a result, the air is forced out of the can and enters the reservoir, where, rising, it carries water with it. Not large number water enters the watering can to cool the grate, after which the cycle repeats.

Pay attention! Such a pump can be somewhat modernized by pumping propane-butane into the grill instead of air.

As you can see, with skill and a minimal set of tools you can make a water pump from almost anything. To get acquainted with other technologies, we recommend watching the thematic video.

Video - Making a water pump

Master class on how to make a powerful, low-voltage water pump for various needs. For example, pump out a barrel of water for watering plants, etc. The pump works great battery 12 V, which is its primary advantage.

Will need

Making a water pump

We take an adapter with a diameter of 50 mm to 32 mm.

And a plug for a 50 mm pipe.

In the plug we place holes for the engine: two for mounting screws, one for the shaft.

We drill out and remove burrs.

Now you need to cut off the bottom part. We mark a straight line by rotating the plug.

We cut it off with a hacksaw. Using sandpaper, we level the surface and get rid of burrs.

We also cut off the skirt of the adapter using the same pattern.

We combine the adapter with the plug to check the evenness of the surfaces.

We take a small piece of PVC pipe 20 mm in diameter and cut it at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. Next you need to create a rounded surface of the cut edge. To do this, wrap the adapter with sandpaper and grind the edge of the tube until it forms a circle.

We make a hole in the adapter for the tube.

Glue the tube into the hole using epoxy glue.

Let's take a disposable syringe and check how tightly it fits onto the motor shaft. If it’s tight, then that’s normal, that’s what we need.

Cut off the tip of the syringe.

To make the impeller, you need to cut a square out of aluminum. Make a hole in it, such that the skirt of the syringe fits tightly.

We mark the square into 9 parts.

We draw diagonals in squares across the cell. See photo.

We cut off the corners with metal scissors.

We bend the squares. See photo:

From an unnecessary inner tube from a bicycle or car, we cut out a gasket for the engine.

We take the motor with propellers.

We put on the gasket, put on the plug and fix it all with screws.

Then we put the cut-off pipette from the syringe on the skirt towards the motor.

Next we put on the impeller. Everything should fit very tightly. It would be a good idea to glue everything with epoxy-based glue.

From a pipe of 50 mm diameter we cut out a ring, approximately 10 mm wide. We insert half into the adapter. We remove the part that is visible through the hole.

Putting the pump together.

After acquiring a plot of land, the summer resident begins to solve the most important problems: he needs to start somewhere in order to settle down. The most important thing is to provide yourself with water. Indeed, since life arose in water, without it, all living things cannot exist for a long time. You can bring water from somewhere, but only for personal needs. The watering problem cannot be solved using this method. It’s good if there is water at least close to the site. Any, even small, body of water will suit you: a river or at least a stream. The ideal option is a spring, but such luck is rare. All that's left is to get a pump. By the way, at first, a homemade water pump will do. Its use will alleviate the problem.

This pump model, which does not require electricity to operate, can be used by craftsmen who are lucky enough to purchase a plot of land on the banks of a small but very stormy river.

The hose is laid in the barrel in even turns without creases or kinks. And the entire structure as a whole looks rather simple, but with its help water is regularly supplied to the shore

To create a pump you will need:

a barrel with a diameter of 52 cm, a length of 85 cm and a weight of approximately 17 kg;
hose wound in a barrel with a diameter of 12 mm;
outlet (supply) hose 16mm in diameter;

There are also restrictions for the immersion environment: the working depth of the flow should not be less than 30 cm, the speed of water movement (current) should be 1.5 m/sec. Such a pump ensures that water rises to a height of no more than 25 meters vertically.

Components: 1 - outlet hose, 2 - sleeve coupling, 3 - blades, 4 - polystyrene foam floats, 5 - spiral winding of the hose, 6 - inlet, 7 - bottom of the structure. The barrel floats perfectly

Details of using this pump can be seen in the video.

Option #2 – homemade wave pump

This pump also takes advantage of the river nearby. In a reservoir without a current, such a pump is unlikely to be effective. To make it you will need:

accordion-type corrugated pipe;
bracket;
2 bushings with valves;
log.

The pipe can be made of either plastic or brass. Depending on the material of the accordion, the weight of the log must be adjusted. A log weighing more than 60 kg will fit a brass pipe, but a not so heavy load will be suitable for a plastic pipe. As a rule, the weight of the log is selected practically.

This version of the pump is suitable for a river and not with the most stormy current, it is important that it is simple, then the “accordion” will contract and the water will be pumped

Both ends of the pipe are closed with bushings having valves. On one side, the pipe is attached to a bracket, on the other, to a log placed in water. The operation of the device directly depends on the movement of water in the river. It is its oscillatory movements that should force the “accordion” to act. The expected effect at a wind speed of 2 m/sec and with an increased pressure of up to 4 atmospheres can be approximately 25 thousand liters of water per day.

As you understand, the pump is presented in a simplified version. It can be improved by eliminating unwanted torque on the log. To do this, fix it in a horizontal plane by installing a ring stop on the lift using a bolt. The pump will now last longer. Another improvement option: soldered tips at the ends of the pipe. The bushings can simply be screwed onto them.

Particular attention should be paid to the preliminary preparation of the log. Don't forget that it will be placed in water. We prepare a mixture of natural drying oil and kerosene at a ratio of one to one. We impregnate the log itself with the mixture 3-4 times, and the cuts and ends, as the most hygroscopic, six times. The mixture may begin to harden during operation. When heated in a water bath, it will return fluidity without losing other properties.

Option #3 - a furnace that creates a pressure difference

The craftsmen whose idea was embodied in this miracle of engineering called their brainchild a “pump furnace.” They know better, of course, but initial stage In its operation, this pump is similar to a samovar. However, it really does not heat the water, but creates a difference in pressure, due to which its work is carried out.

For such a pump you need:

steel barrel 200 liters;
Primus or blowtorch;
pipe with tap;
mesh nozzle for hose;
rubber hose;
drill.

The pipe with the tap must be cut into the bottom of the barrel. Close the top of the barrel with a screw cap. A hole is pre-drilled in this plug and a rubber hose is inserted into it. The mesh nozzle is needed to close the second end of the hose before it is lowered into the reservoir.

This version of the pump can even be called ingenious and, most importantly, this “device” will probably work well

Approximately two liters of water are poured into the barrel. They put it under a barrel heating element(primus stove or blowtorch). You can simply light a fire under the bottom. The air in the barrel heats up and exits through a hose into the reservoir. This will be noticeable by gurgling. The fire is extinguished, the barrel begins to cool, and due to the low internal pressure, water from the reservoir is pumped into it.

On average, it takes at least an hour to fill a barrel. This is provided that the hole in the hose has a diameter of 14 mm and a distance of 6 meters from the place from which the water is to be raised.

Option #4 – black grille for sunny weather

This product will require special devices. Where, for example, do you get a black lattice, the hollow tubes of which contain liquefied propane-butane? However, if this part of the problem is solved, the rest does not cause any particular difficulties. So, there is a grille, and it is connected to a rubber bulb (balloon), which is placed in a can. There are two valves in the lid of this can. One valve lets air into the container, and through the other, air with a pressure of 1 atm exits into the air duct.

It’s really better to make the grate black, because black products always heat up more actively under the bright summer sun

This is how the system works. Watering the grate on a sunny day cold water. Propane-butane cools, and the gas vapor pressure decreases. The rubber balloon is compressed, and air enters the can. After the sun dries the grate, the steam will again inflate the bulb, and pressurized air will begin to flow through the valve directly into the pipe. The air plug becomes a kind of piston that expels water through the shower head onto the grate, after which the cycle repeats.

Of course, we are not interested in the process of watering the grate itself, but in the water that collects under it. Experts say that the pump functions perfectly even in winter time. Only this time, frosty air is used as a coolant, and the grate is heated by water extracted from the ground.

Option #5 – supercharger made from a plastic bottle

If the water is in a barrel or other container, then using a watering hose in this case seems problematic. It's actually not that complicated. You can literally use scrap materials to construct a homemade pump for pumping out water, which will work on the principle of compensating the level of liquid in communicating vessels.

Water injection occurs as a result of several translational movements. The valve, which is located under the lid, does not allow water to return to the barrel, which forces it to flow out when its volume increases. This seemingly insignificant structure is a great help in dacha work.

For a hand pump you need:

a plastic bottle, the lid of which must have a plastic membrane gasket;
hose of suitable length;
a standard tube whose diameter corresponds to the size of the bottle neck.

How exactly such a pump can be assembled and how it will function, look at the video, where everything is explained in detail.

Option #6 – part from a washing machine

The habit of buying new things when there are old analogues is very ruinous. I agree that an old washing machine is no longer able to compete with new models, but its pump can still serve you well. For example, it can be used to pump out water from a drainage well.

The washing machine has served its purpose a long time ago. It was simply supplanted by new models with new capabilities. But her heart, the pump, is still capable of serving its owner.

The motor of such a pump requires a 220V network. But it is better to use an isolation transformer with reliable insulation of the input and output windings to power it. Don’t forget about high-quality grounding of the core or metal body of the transformer itself. We compare the power of the transformer and the motor.

We use a centrifugal type of pump, so we put a valve at the end of a hose lowered into water, and fill the system with water. The check valve, which is shown disassembled in the photo, can also be removed from washing machine. And the blue ground stopper just fit perfectly so that the extra hole would also be closed. Surely you have something similar in your supplies.

Literally from garbage, as it turns out, you can assemble a completely functional thing that not only works, but does its job well and quickly

The resulting homemade pump works very well, pumping water from a depth of about 2 meters at a decent speed. It is important to turn it off in time so that air does not get into the system and you do not have to fill it with water again.

Option #7 – Archimedes and Africa

Everyone remembers very well the story about the screw invented by Archimedes. With its help, water supply was carried out even in ancient Syracuse, which did not know electricity. A very ingenious use of the Archimedes screw was invented in Africa. The carousel pump serves both as entertainment for local children and as a completely functional structure that provides water to a small settlement. If you have children and they have friends who love to ride the carousel, take this experience into your arsenal.

1- children's carousel, 2- pump, 3- aquifer layer, 4- water tank, 5- water column, 6- water return pipe in case of tank overflow

As you can see, there are a lot of possibilities for water supply. And electricity may not be involved in this issue at all. It turned out that even a schoolchild can make some water pumps with his own hands. It is important to have desire, a clear head and skillful hands. We'll give you ideas.

Many people want to make a manual water pump with their own hands. After all, if you don’t need constant water, then you don’t have to incur additional costs. After all, for example, it is perfect for watering.

Today we will look at several options on how to make a manual water pump with your own hands. The models are all made entirely by hand. They differ in materials of manufacture and volumes of water pumping. Let's directly figure out how to make a water hand pump with your own hands.

Why do you need a homemade pump?

The disadvantages of all pumps offered in stores include:

Most devices need to be connected to the electricity supply network, which is practically impossible for many dachas, especially during their construction.
In addition, electricity tariffs can also be “biting”, and in the event of a power outage, you can be left without water for an indefinite time.

All this leads to the fact that many thrifty homeowners want to have a backup device at their disposal for pumping water with a hand pump.

Tip: Having such a device at hand, you can always provide water to living plants in your area, or simply use the device at any critical moment.

Operating principle of a water piston pump

The most popular device for supplying water from wells, wells or reservoirs is a pump, which is designed as a piston type.

The principle of its operation is as follows:

A piston moves inside the cylinder. There is also an inlet valve and an outlet pipe, which can be equipped with a valve.
An outlet valve can be installed directly on the piston.
To improve performance, a spring is installed between the piston and the inlet valve, attracting the piston to the end of the cylinder with the inlet valve.
When the piston moves along the cylinder, a vacuum of air is created, which opens the valve and draws water through the inlet pipe.
When the piston moves back, the inlet valve closes and the fluid exits through the valve or outlet pipe.
The engine for such pumps is muscle force, and its performance depends on the applied effort and the volume of the cylinder.

Advice: With the help of such a pump, it is impossible to ensure a complete water supply, but at a critical moment it is quite possible to pump water and water the beds. Pumping pumps are installed on shallow wells - tubular ones.

It is possible to make such a device yourself, using a minimum set of tools and materials and possessing simple technological skills.

Manufacturing options

It’s not difficult to do it yourself. To do this, first consider how much water you will need.

The video in this article will help you in your work and from the photo you can clearly see such equipment. Below you will also find instructions on the rules for performing this work.

Making a pump

We assemble a pump for overflowing water with our own hands from improvised means. Despite the fact that the design itself is primitive, it is very convenient if, when working in the garden, a large amount of water is needed, for example, for irrigation.

So, the pump is assembled in 10 minutes, and for this you will need:

Hose,
A pipe and a couple of necks from plastic bottles.

Pump assembly:

The gasket must be removed from the cork, trimmed by 2 mm so that it is smaller than the diameter of the cork itself, that is, the cork segment should be 3 mm.
Drill a 10 mm hole in the center of the cover.
Then place the petal in the lid and screw the prepared neck from plastic bottle so that it presses the segment that remains. The valve is inserted into the stem tube, then the second half of the cut plastic bottle is put on.
We put the outlet hose (see) on the other end. A self-made device works with several clicks along the axis of the rod when the intake part with the valve is in the water.
As long as there is a difference in levels, the liquid flows by gravity.

Attention: The water rises by immersing the rod in the barrel. This pump can be called a negative cost product, since it only requires time and household waste disposal.

DIY hand pump

The manual water pumping system described below can be taken as the basis for creating a stationary water-lifting station in a well or borehole.

We need:

Sewer PVC pipe 50 mm with several outlets, plug, sealing cuffs - 1 m.
Check valve 1/2″ in the amount of 2 pieces, sewer pipe PPR 24 mm,
Also rubber, bolts and nuts with 6-8 mm washers, several clamps, fitting clamps and other plumbing parts.

Attention: The design of the pump may not correspond to this description, since the use of spare parts is purely individual.

There are several ways to assemble such a pump.

Drain via handle

This model is the simplest of those that can be assembled at home: the rod is made of a PPR pipe, the water in it rises and pours out from above. The sleeve is made from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 650 mm. The pump turns out to be the simplest of the home ones - water rises along the piston rod, which is made of PPR pipe and pours out from above.

So:

The sleeve is made from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 650 mm. The valve should be an annular petal valve: drill 10 holes with a diameter of 6 mm, cut out a round rubber flap in the amount of 3-4 pieces with a diameter of 50 mm.
We fix the flap in the center of the plug using bolts or rivets (a self-tapping screw will not work). This way we get a reed valve. You don’t have to make the valve yourself, but just embed a factory-made one into the end cap. At the same time, the cost of the pump will increase by 30%.
We install a plug into the sleeve using sealant through the insulation, and additionally fix it with self-tapping screws through the base wall of the sleeve.
The next element of the pump is the piston. A check valve is installed in the PPR pipe.

Attention: To do this, heat the end of the pipe and insert a fitting with a valve that allows water to flow in the direction of the piston rod. Before cooling, the connection should be strengthened with a clamp.

To make the piston head, you can use the used nose part of the sealant 340 ml. The pipe is first heated and placed in a sleeve. This will give the head the desired shape and size.
Next, it is trimmed and installed sequentially on the check valve using a coupling having external thread, or use a union nut.
We insert the piston into the base of the pump and make the top plug, which may not necessarily be sealed, but the rod must remain level.
We install the squeegee on the free end of the pipe and put a hose on it. A pump of this design is very reliable, but a little inconvenient - the water drain point is in constant motion and is located close to the operator. This type The pump can be changed a little.

Side drain assembly

Everything is done as follows:

We include a 35 degree angle tee in the sleeve. We make large holes in the rod pipe without compromising the rigidity; alternatively, you can use a rod rod.

Attention: In this case, the water will rise with the help of the operator's reverse force towards the pump outlet.

The main advantage and advantage of the pumps described is the low price of the design. A factory valve costs about $4, a pipe about a dollar per 1 meter. And all other parts in total will cost 2-3 dollars.
We'll get a pump that costs less than $10. Repairing such pumps will also cost a pretty penny by replacing several “other” cheap parts.

Spiral hydraulic piston

It is a little more difficult to make a manual water pump in this design with your own hands. But it has more productivity. This type of piston is most often used when pumping water from reservoirs with a current over a short distance.

So:

The device is based on a carousel with blades, resembling the wheel of a water mill. The river flow is what drives the wheel. And the pump in this case is a spiral made of flexible pipe 50-75 mm, which is attached to the wheel with clamps.
A bucket with a diameter of 150 mm is attached to the intake part. Water will enter the pipeline through the main unit (pipe reducer). You can take it from either a factory pump or a sewer pump.
The gearbox must be tightly attached to the base, which is motionless and located along the axis of the wheel.
The maximum rise of water is equal to the length of the pipe from the intake, which is in the water during operation. This distance is obtained from the point at which the pump is immersed in water to the point at which it exits. This is the distance the water intake bucket of the pump travels.
The operating system of such a pump is simple: when it is immersed in water, a closed system with air sections, water flows through the pipe to the center of the spiral. The only disadvantage of this is that the activator is a body of water, so its use is not suitable for everyone.

This pump will serve as an excellent watering agent during the season. Its price depends on the material used.

Pump assembled from a compressor

If you don’t know what to use your existing compressor for, then this homemade pump option is for you. Thanks to its presence, you can assemble a lift from just two pipes.

So:

The first pipe will supply water. The diameter of the pipe should be 30 mm.
The second pipe will supply air from the compressor; the diameter of such a pipe will be 10-20 mm.
To create a hydraulic system in the first pipe (the one with a larger diameter), we make holes 50 mm from the edge and insert the second pipe. The knot resulting from connecting both pipes will be in the water, and the free end will be fed to the place where the water collects.
The efficiency of the pump depends on the power of the compressor used, the depth to which the pump is immersed, and the height of the water supply. The efficiency will not exceed 70% due to the peculiarities of its assembly. That is, the efficiency can be calculated if the immersion depth is divided by the sum of the immersion depth and the height of the water rise.
Such a pump will cost you a small amount, unless you purchase a compressor specifically for it.

You can also make a manual vacuum pump with your own hands, because there is simply no air with it. But this model will be a little more complicated.