Make a pass. How to make a chimney pass through a metal roof for a square and round pipe. Do-it-yourself ventilation in the house

Crossing the roof with a pipe is one of the extremely vulnerable components of the structure. At the intersection of the roof with a chimney, a hole is required, which, if the rules of arrangement are violated, is capable of passing water. Improper sealing of the space around the pipe can cause a fire, and incorrect fixation risks becoming the cause of destruction. In order for the listed formidable circumstances to bypass lovers of Russian steam, you should know how to correctly install the pipe into the bathhouse through the roof. Compliance with the rules for the device of this very important penetration will save you from a lot of serious troubles and troubles.

Principles of arranging roof passages

The space between the chimney and the wall of the box turned towards it is also filled with basalt wool, and an air gap is left outside between this wall and the insulation to improve insulation. From below, from the side of the bath rooms, the penetration is closed with a box-shaped casing made of galvanized or stainless steel. For the final design, from the side of the attic, a steel sheet is first mounted, then a casing.

The arrangement of the passage through the slope from the side of the bath is carried out using a metal under-roof sheet with an oval hole. It is attached with self-tapping screws to the elements of the truss system. Before installing the sheets, basalt cardboard and cotton wool are laid in the cut-out opening. The free space is filled with non-combustible thermal insulation. A lead roof trim is installed on top. It is adjusted to the surface of the roof by tapping with a mallet.

Video on the arrangement of roof penetrations

Standard execution of pipe cutting:

Passage device through ondulin:

Homemade assembly for the passage of a pipe through corrugated board:

Information about the rules for arranging chimneys is useful and independent craftsmen, and customers of the services of a team of builders. Compliance with technological requirements will save you from many negative consequences. Properly executed passage nodes will provide excellent insulation and extend the life of the bath chimneys and the bath itself.

One of the most problematic stages of organizing ventilation or a chimney is their passage through the roof surface. In this matter, there are individual features of the installation of a chimney or ventilation pipe, which depend primarily on the material from which the ceiling and the roof itself are made. We will learn more about how to make ventilation with your own hands and how to properly run a chimney through the roof.

Do-it-yourself ventilation of a private house - characteristics and features

At the stage of designing a private brick house, ventilation is arranged directly in the walls. In this case, the ventilation outlet is carried out through the roof. Thus, there is always fresh air in the room, and there is no fungus and mold on the walls.

If the natural ventilation in the room does not work well enough, then forced exhaust is used to supplement it. However, it will not be required when arranging a competent ventilation hole on the roof. The level of ventilation in the room directly depends on the height of the pipe installed in the house. Incorrectly equipped risers in ventilation shafts above the roof lead to the appearance of such unpleasant situations:

since the ventilation ducts are unevenly combined, the smell from the bathroom and kitchen enters the bedroom;
not long enough pipe leads to reduced performance ventilation system;
the wrong place for installing the pipe on the roof leads to the opposite and wrong mode hood work;
the lack of proper insulation of the ventilation pipe leads to freezing of the channels.

Modern types of roofs are characterized by a complex configuration and construction in the form of a roofing pie. Therefore, to conduct a ventilation pipe through the roof, you need to work hard. In case of poor-quality installation work, damage to the rafters and battens may occur. In the place where the cover is installed on the vent, gaps often appear through which rainwater goes to the attic. Therefore, in order to maintain the tightness of the roof, during installation work, it is necessary to use special elements of the through passage.

Ventilation outlet by hand: design work on the planning of passages

You need to start working on the ventilation system at home with the preparation of a project or drawing, which describes in detail all the passages of the ventilation shafts. It is recommended that ventilation pipes be removed from all rooms in which hoods are located and connected together. The central pipe brings air outside through the roof. However, in this case, it is necessary to install special valves to prevent back draft. Otherwise, air from the kitchen will enter through the vents into the bedroom.

When installing ventilation ducts on a new roof, it is much easier to install a pipe than on a roof that is already equipped. Ventilation passages are installed on the roof to perform the following functions:

for ventilation of rooms inside the house;
as fan pipes sewer purpose;
for ventilation roof space in the attic.

In addition, in some cases, television antennas and chimneys are carried through the roof. The final top element on the ductwork system is in the form of a previously built section of pipe, which is called a ventilation outlet.

A technologically correctly installed ventilation pipe is the key to a high-quality exit of air from the room to the outside, while water leaks under the roof in this case are unacceptable.

There are ready-made kits for bringing ventilation ducts through the roof. They are particularly sealed. There are two options for such kits in relation to the materials from which the roof is made. They allow you to quickly and efficiently bring the ventilation pipe through the roof, without losing its attractiveness. In addition, these sets have a function to prevent dust and dirt from getting inside from the outside. ventilation duct.

The dimensions of the ventilation passage are determined strictly individually and depend on the individual characteristics of the house, the number of rooms, the material from which the roof is made, etc. The cross section of the pipes for organizing the hood is either round or rectangular or square.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in a private house scheme

The simplest ventilation passage mechanisms consist of steel pipe, which is installed in the vent and fixed with a reinforced concrete or metal cup. At the same time, the roofing passage has a valve for closing the hole and a ring inside which condensate collects.

The lower part of the pipe is connected to an outlet type air duct, a deflector or a simple protective umbrella is installed on the upper part of the assembly. In some cases, mineral wool is used to insulate pipes, in which case it is necessary to ensure its high-quality waterproofing, since this material is unstable to moisture.

The previous do-it-yourself ventilation arrangement is outdated. Modern kits for the construction of ventilation passages are characterized by versatility of use, aesthetically attractive appearance and ease of installation. Among the advantages of installing ventilation ducts from the manufacturer, we highlight:

for the manufacture of the pipe, two material options are used - galvanized steel inside, and lightweight polypropylene outside;
a reliable conductor is used to fix the output elements, exactly repeating the shape of the pipe;

the value of the pipe height is determined individually, depending on the optimal length of the ventilation duct;
in order to prevent the appearance of ice plugs, installation is carried out thermal insulation material on the pipe;
in some cases, an electric fan is mounted on a pipe;
the presence of a cap prevents the ingress of debris and moisture into the ventilation pipes.

Some manufacturers do not include inlet elements in the package, they must be purchased separately. Please note that the passage should match the shape of the previously equipped hole for it.

With the help of passage elements, it is possible to quickly install the ventilation pipe. These works are carried out both at the stage of the construction of the roof, and on the finished roof. These elements provide high-quality sealing and stable ventilation of a private house with their own hands. At the same time, ready-made kits accelerate installation work at least twice.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the house

In addition to the main ventilation pipe, an additional aerator is installed on the roof. Its main function is to prevent the formation of condensate under the roof in winter time of the year. This ventilation part is easy to operate. Air naturally moves through it. Through a special hole, air is supplied to the eaves, and the aerator provides its output to the outside. A special cover protects the aerator from snow or rain.

Particular attention in the process of organizing ventilation in a private house with your own hands should be paid to the place where the ventilation pipe is attached to the roof. It is recommended to equip the pipe directly above the riser, so that the ventilation will be most efficient. If there are still bends in the system, then an adapter for their corrugations is used to arrange them. On pitched roofs, it is recommended to install a ventilation duct next to the ridge. This method of pipe installation allows most of the pipe to be installed under the roof, and its short part will easily withstand the wind.

Moreover, Special attention give ventilation shafts located above the roof. If they are located low in relation to the roof, then this leads to a decrease in traction. The minimum value of the pipe in relation to the roof is half a meter. For flat roof this value is tripled.

A properly installed ventilation pipe must be in optimal proportion to the wind load. Otherwise, the wind support will block the ventilation.

Ventilation by hands

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for installing a ventilation duct on a roof trimmed with metal tiles. This technology is also used for other roofing options, however, with some adjustments.

Instructions for arranging ventilation:

1. Decide where to mount the vent. For this, it is recommended to draw up a drawing of the ventilation system in advance.

2. On the top of the roof, make a drawing according to the template that comes with the instructions for the kit. If there is no template, then the diameter of the drawing must exactly match the diameter of the pipe that passes through it.

3. Cutting a hole is done with a chisel or metal shears. The same is done in the lower parts of the roofing cake in the form of heat and waterproofing materials.

4. In relation to the template, you need to drill holes for mounting self-tapping screws. Remove water and dirt from the surface of the metal tile, degrease that part of the roof that is located near the installation of the pipe.

5. Sealant is applied to the bottom of the gasket. The gasket is placed in place of its installation. The passage part of the ventilation system is fixed on the gasket; use self-tapping screws to fix it. Most often, they come with the main set.

6. A pipe is installed inside the passage element, without fail its verticality is checked using a level. Watch the tightness of the installation of the passage element both in the attic and on the roof.

The inlet pipe must be firmly pressed against the gasket so that the sealant is squeezed out of it. To protect the pipe from precipitation and debris, a special protective cover is installed on it.

Do-it-yourself ventilation installation technology in the cellar

The presence of properly organized ventilation in the cellar provides comfortable conditions for storing various food products in it. There are ready-made kits for organizing the ventilation system. However, it is much cheaper to build ventilation with your own hands.

In order to equip the simplest ventilation hood in the basement, you will need two pipes. One of them will perform the function of the hood, and the second - an element for the influx of fresh air. Thus, it is possible to organize optimal natural air exchange.

There are two options for organizing ventilation - forced and natural. The second way is cheaper, but less effective. For forced ventilation, I mount additional fans and hoods on the pipes, which improve air circulation.

In order to ensure high-quality circulation, it is necessary to correctly calculate the cross-section of pipes and determine the place of their installation. The exhaust type pipe is located in the lower part of the room, next to the products. The supply pipe is installed closer to the ceiling of the cellar. In this case, both pipes are brought out. The exhaust pipe needs to be insulated.

To increase the efficiency of the hood, use different kinds deflectors. These devices not only protect the device from precipitation, but also improve their traction. The supply pipe is equipped with a grate that protects it from rodents and insects. As pipes for organizing ventilation, polyethylene or asbestos-cement varieties are used. The first option is distinguished by a long service life, easily tolerates temperature changes and moisture, is quickly installed and has a low weight. Asbestos pipes are used less often, because of their severity, the duration of installation and instability in front of precipitation.

In order to improve ventilation in the cellar, it is especially important for large rooms. Hoods and fans are installed on the pipes. Duct fans are installed directly inside the pipe. Axial fans are mounted on the end of the pipe. The choice of one or another option should be justified by the operational characteristics, power and performance of the devices.

Metal roofing - reliable and durable protection houses from precipitation, wind and winter cold. The material is easy to use, has a fairly large selection of options - by manufacturer, color and type of metal. It is simple and quite accessible for independent implementation, but it requires taking into account some features of the material and preliminary familiarization with the rules for its installation and use.

In order to resolve this issue, the greatest attention must be paid the quality of the sealing of the pipe from the ridge side. It is recommended to equip the furnace passage as close as possible to the ridge, this will eliminate the possibility of accumulation of large masses of snow.

NOTE!

All elements of the pipe at the point of passage through the roof must be solid, without joints. All connections are made either before or after the pass.

To provide fire safety must be made (or purchased if the pipe on the roof of the metal tile has a standard shape) special metal box, providing the necessary clearance and cut-off of the hot sections of the pipe from the material of the roofing pie and the truss system. The space between the box and the roof is filled with non-combustible material, glass wool or mineral wool. This will ensure the insulation of the passage section and will avoid the appearance of pockets of condensation.

metal roof chimney

So, how to bypass the pipe with a metal tile? We will talk about this further.

The passage of a square pipe through a metal tile

The passage of the chimney through the roof of the metal tile begins with the installation of an internal apron. To do this, it is necessary to mark on the pipe the points of contact of the junction strips (elements of the inner apron), with the help of a grinder, pass a groove into which the upper edge of the strips will be inserted.
Carry out the installation of junction strips. They are mounted on roofing screws with a step of no more than 25 cm.. Starting from the bottom side of the pipe, the strips are overlapped with an overlap of at least 15 cm. Joints and gaps (especially the girdle groove, where the edge of the abutment strips is inserted) are filled with sealant.
A sheet of metal is installed under the bottom bar - bottom tie, providing water flow into a gutter or valley.
An additional waterproofing shell of the inner part of the unit is equipped. You can do without it if all the work is done quite reliably, but in this case, additional insurance against leaks will not be superfluous. Its upper edge must overlap the cut of the adjoining strips by at least 5 cm.
After that they start for the installation of metal roofing.
On top of the finished roof, the exit point of the chimney through the metal tile must be surrounded by an upper apron. This will be the first layer of protection against rain or melt water. Fastening is made without grooving, therefore the joint of the pipe and the apron must be sealed.

junction with a metal tile pipe

CAREFULLY!

Install the apron carefully, avoid deformation of the metal and cracking (peeling) of the polymer layer. This will help to avoid corrosion of the elements and ensure maximum service life.

round chimney passage

If a round pipe is used, the best option output will the use of roof penetrations of circular cross section.

They are made of rubber or thermosilicone, which ensures the elasticity of the material and the possibility of tight connection with any roof relief.

Mounted on top of an existing roof tightly stretched over the pipe and attached to the metal tile.

Thus, an elastic "cap" is obtained, tightly fitting the pipe and smoothly passing to the plane of the roof.

For reliability, the joints must be poured with sealant. Such a system reliably provides protection from rain, is not afraid of temperature changes and deformations.

The inside of the passage is filled with non-combustible insulation and covered with a sheet of metal.

round pipe installation

All places where the pipe joins the metal roofing must be insulated silicone sealant. This applies to both the lower and upper aprons. Do not neglect the installation of an insulator layer between the aprons. After installing the top apron, it is necessary to carefully insulate all existing joints and connections of the elements.

Useful video

And now we invite you to watch the video on self-assembly chimney:

Conclusion

In general, the equipment for the passage of a chimney requires accuracy and a complete understanding of the essence of the operations performed. Failure to comply with the rules entails the formation of leaks and the destruction of the roofing pie, threatens with a fire. Compliance with the rules is the key to a long and reliable service roofs.

To achieve a visual expansion of the area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment, designers use a popular technique by creating an additional passage. Each person who is familiar with the technical rules and has building skills can make such an opening in the wall on their own.

Why and how is a doorway made?

In some apartments, redevelopment is done to create free space, which includes:

door transfer;
window extension;
an increase in the archway.

How to make a doorway so that there are no catastrophic consequences? This question worries the owners of their own apartments. The answer is the same. It is necessary to know the technology of construction and have construction experience.

If you make a passage without complying with regulatory requirements, you can destroy both the wall and the house.

Strengthening the passage in the bearing wall

What to look out for

The cost of creating a passage depends on the performer of the work. If you do this work yourself, you can save a lot, but you will have to answer for the wrong actions yourself. You should consider your choice so that you do not regret it later.

Gather complete information before starting work. Learn how to make a hole in the wall. It is necessary to take into account several factors:

wall material;
opening width;
number of storeys of the building;
cracks;
bends;
potholes.

You need to find out how the floors are located and what type they are. Such information will be needed to calculate the strengthening of the passage, if for this it was necessary to disassemble the load-bearing wall. The opening made must have reliable jumpers so that the collapse of the building does not happen. Suitable material for this - a steel channel.

Dismantling the wall under the doorway

If the wall is made of bricks

How to make an opening in a brick wall to avoid catastrophic consequences? According to the technology, you must first remove a couple of bricks from the masonry. Before starting the disassembly of a large section, a jumper is first installed that will hold the wall. The thickness of such a reinforcing structure is 12 cm.

If you need to cut a hole above the passage to install the jumper, strobes are made above the ceiling of the future opening with a depth equal to the width of the corner. The length of the strobe is greater than the width of the opening. The calculation is based on the length of one brick.

To obtain a secure fit, the inserted corners must be well secured. Gaps are made in the corner and wall, where fixing bolts are inserted to tie the corner.

Strengthening the opening in a brick wall

How to work with a concrete wall?

When the brick is removed, the corners are fastened together with steel strips welded to the shelves. After that, the fastener is removed. Reinforcement of the vertical is done with the help of channels welded to the jumper, which creates one structure.

You can move a doorway in a brick wall by following the technology described above. It is necessary to follow the sequence of operations and install reinforcing jumpers in advance.

This kind of work takes a lot of time. You can't do everything quickly. Unlike brick wall, a doorway is cut out here without installing jumpers. The concrete panel is made in one piece, so it does not require additional support.

When the passage is disassembled, reinforcement is made. According to the thickness of the opening, a channel is selected, which serves as a frame for the upper crossbar. He will support vertical walls opening.

concrete cutting

Working with reinforced concrete wall

Concrete walls are made load-bearing. Therefore, how to make an opening in such a reinforced concrete wall so as not to destroy the building is indicated in the regulatory documents. It is important to make the correct calculation of the reinforcing frame. It is better not to do such work yourself in order to avoid unpleasant consequences.

Such changes to the supporting structure require special permission. It is necessary to submit a work plan and drawings of the future redevelopment of the premises. Even the smallest nuances are taken into account in the documents. Only in this case, you can count on the approval of the work by the architectural organization. After obtaining permission, work can begin.

First, the marking of the future passage is done. And it should be done on both sides of the wall. To make the lines match, grooves are drilled in the corners of the wall, and, starting from them, marking lines are drawn. Then holes are drilled along the perimeter of the opening, in increments of 30 mm.

For processing concrete walls, it is desirable to have diamond saws. They easily cope with the concrete surface. Without them, such work will require a large number time and become labor intensive.

In a broken wall, a strapping of the opening is made. To do this, use a metal channel. You can install corners that are pre-welded to each other.

Channel reinforcement of the opening

Installing a doorway in a new location

It is easier to move the doorway if it interior wall. It is not a carrier, so every apartment owner knows how to move a doorway. You can do without complex calculations and carry out dismantling without fear that the integrity of the building will be damaged.

Overlapping is made from a variety of materials:

bricks;
drywall;
concrete.

Making a passage in such a wall is easy. You can cut it out, or you can knock it out.

Before starting work, markup is done. The contours of the opening are drawn on the wall. Moreover, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions door frame. Therefore, the contour must have a few centimeters of margin. In the future, this will help to easily install the door.

To cut an opening, you will need a grinder and a diamond blade. Just do not try to immediately cut the entire opening. Divide the site into several fragments, cut through each one in turn.

You can knock out the opening with a heavy sledgehammer. But before starting work, perforate the wall in increments of 5 cm. The wall will break only along the borders.

Shift doorway

In the case of low material strength, the opening is necessarily reinforced with a jumper. If this is not done, it may collapse. Jumper material can be:

wooden beam;
metal corner;
channel.

To get started, you must first make a gap into which to insert the jumper and fix it. She won't let the wall collapse.

Fill the old opening with bricks. Sometimes a frame is made in this unnecessary passage and sheathed with drywall. The free space is filled with mineral wool. This results in an excellent level of sound isolation.

Remember that a passage in a load-bearing wall cannot be made without the appropriate permission. It is better to invite professionals to perform such work. They will make the necessary calculations and do the job quickly and efficiently.

About how openings are made in load-bearing walls, you can find out from the presented video.

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The chimney can be made of masonry, ordinary steel or insulated sandwich pipe. In each case, an individual approach is needed, because in fact there is a different intensity of heating, and a method of fastening the cutting of the ceiling and roof.

Brick chimneys are the most practical and easy to arrange. The high heat capacity of the masonry does not allow the temperature on the outer surface to rise to fire hazardous values. In addition, parts of cuttings and protective covers can be easily and reliably fixed to a brick chimney. Well, the fastening of the waterproofing apron of the roof is completely carried out according to the simplest circuit without the use of "branded" shaped parts.
brick chimney
Insulated composite pipes are used just as widely, but in some aspects they are inferior to brick ones. They do not look so natural and almost no additional load can withstand. Even more: chimneys of complex shape and long length require additional fixing, which is not good for aesthetics. The heat transfer from such pipes is greater than from brick ones, despite the presence of a heater, they are able to heat the surrounding space quite strongly and require additional lining.

Chimney sandwich pipe
Finally, uninsulated pipes are often used - asbestos-cement, or even steel. The passage of such a chimney through the ceiling and roof is carried out according to the most complex scheme. The lining should not only insulate heat, it must be heat resistant. In addition to incombustibility, it is required to maintain integrity and mechanical strength during cyclic heating/cooling.

Chimney from asbestos pipe
Making a hole in the ceiling
In addition to the difficulties associated with different types chimneys, there is a certain amount of uncertainty due to the variety of ceilings. The easiest way with concrete monolithic ceilings: an opening is cut out in them with an angle grinder with a disk for cutting concrete, adhering to the minimum allowable indents from the chimney pipe. Since the floor material is non-combustible, thermal insulation will require a minimum.
Marking the opening for the chimney
It is more difficult with structural strength, especially when passing through prefabricated floors or if the width of the chimney is 2–3 times the spacing of the slab reinforcement. It is advisable to provide for the need for an opening at the stage of installation of the ceiling, by constructing a reinforced steel hoop or by filling the end of the opening with the inclusion of additional reinforcement.
Opening under the chimney in reinforced concrete floor
The opening in the frame floor is more difficult to arrange. First you need to determine the location of the supporting beams. Approximately in the center of the opening, you need to make a hole with a wide crown, to clarify the removal of the beams and their direction by touch. Outside, we apply markings within the free space, then cut out a section of the floor and the draft ceiling with a jigsaw or hand circular. Most likely, the full profile will not be cut out immediately by the beams, but now they will become available for further manipulations.
You can cut out fragments of the beams with an ordinary hand saw and then complete the trimming of parts of the floor and ceiling. To restore the strength of the supporting system of the ceiling, it is enough to add a pair of crossbars, which are equivalent in power to the total cross section of the removed parts. The allowance for the thickness of the inserts must be made in advance. In the cavity at the open ends, it is necessary to lay a heater and sheathe the opening with a thin board or sheet materials. For greater reliability, you can repeat the sheathing with materials with low thermal conductivity - heat-resistant GKL or MGL.
Pipe passage through wooden floor
We will describe the filling of the passage opening with a heat insulator and the restoration of the skin a little later. Now it is only worth noting that, due to thermal linear expansion, the chimney and its lining must be located independently of each other with a small gap, otherwise the formation of cracks can spread far beyond the junction area. The internal surfaces of openings in ceilings made of conditionally combustible materials should be treated with flame retardants, as well as the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling and floor 50–60 cm from the passage.

Passage through the roof
When passing both through the ceiling and through the roof, the main rule applies - do not join the pipes in the plane of their section. In addition, it is better to join segments under the roof than above it, even if this requires the purchase of additional pipe moldings.
Chimney passage through the roof
The opening in the roof is made from the inside. If there is sheathing and insulation, they are dismantled and, with the help of a plumb line, the section of the chimney is transferred, marking the ellipse on the crate. Along its contour, you need to drill several holes in places from which it is convenient to start cutting with a jigsaw, while sawing through both the roofing and the crate under it.
Chimney passage through the roof
When the hole is made, it is necessary to disassemble the coating 30–40 cm from it. Next, you need to expand the opening in the crate by the thickness of the thermal insulation. The simplest way equip a cavity for filling with insulation - tie rafter legs jumpers, forming a rectangular pocket.

Thermal insulation of the chimney and the device of the passage unit
Chimneys from brickwork thermal insulation as such is not required. Instead, fluffing is performed - the expansion of the channel at the place of its passage through the overlap. Laying out the fluff is easy: it starts 3-4 rows below the ceiling. Each subsequent row of expansion is laid out, starting with the outer bricks, which are released behind the chimney profile for half their width. The cavity formed inside is paved with bricks placed on edge.
Fluffing a brick chimney
It is worth warning that when laying a brick chimney, you need to give time for shrinkage, collecting no more than 10–12 rows in one day. This is especially true of channels called mounted, that is, laid out on top of the stove or fireplace, and not next to them. If the dimensions of the opening were chosen correctly, after laying the fluff, there should be a gap of about 15–20 mm between it and the skin.
Fluffing a brick chimney
In a completely different way, the insulation of the passage of composite and simple pipes. Basalt wool is used as a filler for the opening, this is true for the passage both through the roof and through the ceiling. The thickness of the thermal barrier is always chosen individually, on average it is 200–250 mm for composite pipes and about 400 mm for non-insulated pipes.
Chimney insulation in the ceiling
For the convenience of laying the filler, the opening is hemmed from below with sheet heat-resistant material - magnesite or asbestos-cement slab, sheet steel or roofing sheet. A hole should first be made in the overlay, with a cross section of 10–15 mm larger than the channel on each side.
The passage of the chimney through the ceiling
A similar operation is performed in the roof passage. With the only exception that the surface is inclined and the hole for the channel must be oval. If the chimney is made with an uninsulated pipe, the space of the opening should be divided by a casing sleeve. Inside it, the space is filled with a dense heat-resistant material, for example, a soaked asbestos briquette with the addition of cement and a bonding fiber.

Varieties of roof cuttings, restoration of waterproofing
If it is quite simple to restore the floor of the ceiling, then the lining of the passage through the roof should completely exclude water leakage. To isolate brick chimneys of rectangular cross section, they are cut along the ring with a depth of about 30–50 mm. From thin sheet metal, you need to bend Z-shaped profiles in the amount of four pieces. The upper shelf they are inserted into the groove, the lower one is adjacent to the roofing. In addition to the external apron, an internal one is also arranged, which does not cut into the body of the chimney and mates with the roofing waterproofing.

Waterproofing a brick chimney
The inner apron is made with an L-shaped (ridge) profile with a shelf width of 150 mm or more. Installation starts with highest point: the ridge is nailed to the chimney with dowels, waterproofing is applied on top and fixed with glue. On the sides, you need to leave releases of about 200 mm, which are cut along the fold line and wrapped on the sides of the chimney channel.
Before the final fixing of the petals, the side parts of the apron are mounted, and before they are fixed, the lower segment of the casing is mounted. It is important to properly fill the waterproofing: along the fold line of the lower part of the apron, it is released over the metal ridge. Next, the roofing is restored and the upper lining is mounted - the dressing scheme with the coating is the same as in the previous stage. It is recommended to lubricate the junction of both linings with mastic or plastic sealant, completely eliminating the penetration of moisture.

Chimney passage through the roof
If brick chimney it is arranged strictly vertically, in the case of pipes it is recommended to shift the place of passage as high as possible to the roof ridge. In this case, it is enough to put a wide metal plate under the ridge, and then isolate the connection to the pipe with an elastic cuff. Otherwise, you can’t do without purchasing a special roof cutting kit, but in this way the likelihood of a leak will be guaranteed to be eliminated. For every type roofing there is a set of grooves that repeats the shape of the surface and is sealed with a pipe either with a sealant or a heat-shrinkable neck.