Roof on the wall in half a brick. How is laying in half a brick. What is this type of masonry

For competent thermal insulation of walls on your own, you will need a desire and a little money to buy required material. And for this you need to know how to lay a half-brick house: the builder's advice will help with this.

Action plan

As soon as a decision is made to insulate a house, a lot of related questions immediately arise:

What material is needed;
How to insulate the walls;
Thermal insulation must be inside or outside;
Will it really be warm in the house;
How to properly insulate walls.

Any builder will answer you that it is imperative to insulate the walls of the house in half a brick from the outside. Internal thermal insulation is resorted to only in extreme cases, but not everyone knows why.

To understand, you need to look at the diagram, where you can see the state of the wall with external insulation, internal and without insulation. In general, the dew point is where moisture collects. The diagram shows the location of positive and negative temperatures.

With internal thermal insulation of the room, the wall will be affected by cold and will be constantly wet, because the layer of material will not allow it to warm up due to domestic heat.

Moisture will accumulate in the dew points, and its location will move closer to housing. Consequently, the formation of condensate here will be the greatest, and internal thermal insulation will prevent drying.

Over time, this will necessarily cause the emergence of various microorganisms. Insulation will contribute to their development. You shouldn't comfort yourself. These microorganisms have a harmful effect not only on the external attractiveness of the house, but also on the well-being of residents. When looking at the diagram, it can be seen that without thermal insulation, on the inner surface of the wall, the amount of moisture will be less than with insulation from the inside.

External thermal insulation

From the outside the wall is protected heat insulating material from cold air and dampness, and from the inside it is warmed by the warmth of the room itself, which will also help it dry out if moisture suddenly accumulates. The dew point moves in the direction of the street, therefore, the condensate also moves in this direction, as seen in the photo.

External insulation will help preserve the comfort and warmth of a half-brick house. It can be concluded that there are quite good reasons not to resort to internal insulation Houses. This is possible only in desperate situations.

Styrofoam

First, external cleaning of dirt and dust is required, then they should be leveled, since otherwise there is the possibility of a void between the expanded polystyrene plate and the surface, which can cause deformation. The next step will be priming if you use glue when installing the insulation.

Next, the plate is glued with a special glue or "fungi". For greater reliability, you can use both options at the same time. When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam, the surface for applying glue must be rough. And in conclusion, everything is plastered or lined with bricks.

It is also used to install expanded polystyrene using a frame made of slats, if there is no further brick cladding and the use of plaster. Rails are attached to the wall, thicker than the plate, the distance between which should be optimal for a snug fit of the plates.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fairly hard material, so installation work occur with the use wireframe method. The frame is made of slats, between which insulation is laid. If the walls are made of brick or concrete, the slats are fastened with dowel-nails, and if made of wood, then with the help of self-tapping screws. It should also provide waterproofing over this material and build protection against rodents.

If cladding with bricks is further provided for, thermal insulation is laid between the main and cladding walls, using certain bundles that will hold the mineral wool.

polyurethane foam

This latest technology, quite expensive. It will allow how to strengthen country house half a brick, so, no doubt, and insulate it. Has the following benefits:

the material expands after application and fills all voids;
excellent grip;
hardened, it becomes very durable;
excellent heat and noise insulation qualities.

But there are also unpleasant moments:

this low-density material passes steam well;
afraid of fire;
high price;
the help of professionals is required;
loses its properties over time.

Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam should be carried out by specialists, because personal protective equipment will be required due to the release of harmful elements during the insulation process.

Brickwork in half a brick greatly simplifies the work, and also makes it possible to obtain a strong and reliable surface.

Half-brick masonry is usually used for wall cladding or building partitions.

The construction of brick buildings is one of the most quality options construction. To date, a similar technique is used to build objects that have completely different shapes and number of floors. At the same time, there are several options for mounting similar products used for the construction of certain objects.

The use of brickwork in half a brick and its advantages

Brick laying is a versatile and responsible process that allows you to get an excellent durable and high-quality surface. There are several options for mounting such material. Each of them is able to give an excellent result and is used for the construction of certain types of buildings. The best technique for private construction is the use of half-brick masonry, since it is this that is a prime example of simplicity and efficiency.

Half-brick laying is the most commonly used variation in the installation of such material, since it appearance familiar to everyone. This method of construction is designed for low-rise construction, which makes it popular for the construction of private houses. The characteristics of such a masonry are as follows:

strength;
reliability;
aesthetics;
profitability;
ease of installation.

All these qualities are inherent in the building, which was built using the half-brick technique. In terms of structure, this variation of masonry is the most economical and simple, which makes it possible to do it yourself and get a wonderful result.

The principle of constructing a plane and a list of tools

A half-brick wall is the easiest to construction works and its appearance is good. The principle of constructing such a plane is to shift each subsequent row of bricks by half relative to the first. The length of a standard brick is 250 mm. Based on this, the upper unit of the product is laid with an offset of half, that is, by 120-125 mm. This method of laying makes it possible to create surfaces with increased strength and stability. In addition, their construction is a simple procedure.

Independent implementation of construction work is a responsible procedure, the quality of which will depend not only on the appearance of the building, but also on its strength.

For a brick building using the half-brick technique, you will need the following set of tools:

Master OK;
shovel;
solution container;
level;
square;
rope.

A separate moment should be considered the preparation of mortar for masonry. It consists of a sand-cement mixture in a ratio of 1:3. It is diluted with water until a homogeneous mass with a thick consistency is obtained. Such indicators of the mixture are ideal.

Description of the construction process

The construction of any building begins with laying the foundationresponsible for its stability and strength. The process of pouring it has many subtleties, one of which is waterproofing. To carry out such a task, it is necessary to cover the top layer of the foundation with an insulating material that ensures the preservation of the qualities of the foundation. Such products can be various materials, starting from special bituminous impregnations and ending with ordinary roofing material.

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The construction of the wall according to the half-brick method begins with the erection of the end elements, which are the columns.

In the process of their installation, the main reference points of the building are created, on which a full-fledged roof can be laid. First, 2 corner bricks are laid on an isolated foundation.

In the future, it is from them that the wall will be formed. As a rule, its construction is carried out from left to right. To mount the first row, you must first tighten the thread to control the evenness of the plane. Each subsequent brick, starting from the corner, is planted on cement mortar and compacted well. This should be done carefully, as excessive pressure on the material can cause the plane to skew. The joints between two bricks are also filled with mortar.

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The second row is also laid from the corner of the building in such a way that the joint between the bricks of the first layer is half blocked. Every few rows it is necessary to reinforce the brickwork, which consists in laying a metal mesh between the bricks. Its installation is carried out inside the cement mortar, which is covered by the next row of material. This method of dressing will improve the load-bearing characteristics of the wall and give it a colorful appearance.

Building a half-brick wall is the easiest masonry option to perform and the basis for many others. Most often it is used in construction interior partitions and facade cladding.

This type of masonry can save a lot Construction Materials, since their consumption is halved, the consumption of the solution also decreases accordingly.

What is this type of masonry?

Laying a wall in half a brick assumes that only the spoon part of the bricks will be turned outward. The general principle is simple: the bricks are laid in one row on a layer of mortar, each subsequent top row is shifted by half a brick so that the joints of the seams do not coincide with each other, which negatively affects the strength of the structure.

The wall thickness of half a brick is 120 mm provided that the brick has standard sizes. This is enough for the construction of a partition, but not enough for the construction bearing wall.

A half-brick load-bearing wall is almost never erected, as it will turn out to be too unreliable and thin. According to the rules and building codes, the thickness of the bearing wall must be at least 380 mm, what is one and a half bricks.

The minimum allowable value is 250 mm, that is, it is one brick thick, but such walls are applicable only for one-story buildings or for upper floors multi-storey buildings. The load on the wall in half a brick can only be very small, for example, it will no longer be possible to install a 100-liter boiler on it.

In addition, if it is used as an external wall, additional insulation will definitely be required. To increase strength, transverse reinforcement is used, when rectangular metal meshes are laid every 3-4 rows of masonry.

Knowing how many mm the wall thickness should be, you can calculate the amount of materials. How many bricks are in 1m2 of masonry in half a brick? If mortar joints are not taken into account, when using a single brick, the consumption per 1 square meter will be 61 units, when using one and a half - 45 units.

When taking into account mortar joints, the actual consumption is 51 units or 39 pieces if one and a half bricks are used.

The process of laying in half a brick

Half-brick brickwork is quite easy to learn, so a non-professional can handle it. The first step is to prepare all the tools and make markings so that the first row is even.

For masonry you will need:

Building bricks () in sufficient quantities. In calculations, all halves are taken into account as whole, 5% necessarily assigned to a possible fight and marriage;
Mortar prepared from a mixture of sand and cement. The sand should be fine and carefully sifted so that pebbles and other construction debris do not come across in it;

Advice! The approximate proportion of sand and cement is 1:4, the most commonly used brand of cement is M500. The more sand in the solution, the less plastic it will be. To increase the plasticity of the solution, it is recommended to add a small amount of liquid soap.

Necessary working tools and equipment: a trowel, a large container for preparing mortar, a shovel, a pickaxe for working with bricks, a building square, a plumb line. You will also need a thick fishing line or nylon cord, with which you can align the row.

It is important to properly organize the workplace so that everything needed on the construction site is at hand.

Preparatory work

The wall lies already on the finished foundation, and it should be as even as possible. A waterproofing layer of roofing felt or other similar material is laid on top of the base. On the basis, markings are made for masonry so that the wall turns out to be even, and all the provided doorways are in place.

Note! The basis of any masonry is the first row, so it must be done very evenly and accurately. First of all, two bricks are laid at the ends of the row. If the floor in the building is not completely flat, then start from the corner where its level is higher.

A fishing line is stretched along the entire row, along which the row can be checked in order to prevent deviations from a straight line. Before laying, the bricks are soaked in water for a while, so that later they do not take moisture from the solution.

Laying work

Step-by-step instructions for laying in half a brick:

All do-it-yourself masonry work begins with the removal of corners. The following are applied to the first bricks on the sides, further ones are placed on the resulting masonry of 4 bricks so that the next row overlaps the previous one. This is done in order to form the so-called dressing;

When the corners are ready, a layer of mortar 80-100 mm wide is applied to the base of the row, a brick is placed and gently pressed. The entire row is checked by a level so that the bricks lie strictly horizontally. They can be pressed to the solution layer only in the center, otherwise the row may turn out to be uneven;

The line rises and the next row is laid. The thickness of the solution layer is 8 mm. It is important that the vertical seams of the previous rows are strictly in the center of the upper bricks. The photo shows how the bricks should lie so that the connection is as strong as possible.

With this method of masonry, the cost of materials is significantly reduced and the speed of work is increased. For additional acceleration, you can use the double silicate brick M 150, which has an increased height and increased strength. It can be used both in the construction of internal partitions, and in facing works.

Conclusion

Self master brickwork not so difficult, while the half-brick laying option remains the simplest and most affordable for a novice master. Compliance and building codes will provide the wall with strength and resistance to significant loads.

This type of masonry is more economical in the construction of light structures than "in brick" and more. It allows you to save materials, finances, forces, and also reduces construction time.

We will tell you in which cases half-brick laying will be the most profitable, how to do it correctly, and what is needed for this. For clarity, we provide photos of the main stages of the work.

Application area

Thin walls 120 mm thick (the width of a standard brick) are erected in cases where they do not carry a large load.

These include:

As a rule, they are not loaded at all, so to speak, they are self-supporting, since they are brought under an already finished ceiling.

Important! But you need to know that you can’t hang a lot on such a wall. According to SNiP, the maximum vertical load on half-brick masonry should not exceed 120 kg. That is, it will withstand cabinets and shelves, but a 150-liter boiler can collapse.

Facing the facade after the construction of the house

This, quite often used method of finishing, is used when the house has already been built. In this case, the brickwork also does not bear the load, as it is brought under the eaves of the building.

The masonry does not adjoin tightly to the house, usually a gap is made between the wall and the cladding for ventilation and installation of insulation. Therefore, it is important to firmly connect the front brick with the main building. For this, flexible connections are used.

The use of flexible fittings not only securely connects the cladding and the house, but also keeps the insulation from slipping, and also maintains a constant ventilation gap around the entire perimeter.

Facing of a facade simultaneously with construction.

The so-called well masonry is when work is underway on the construction of the main wall and cladding at the same time. In this case, the front brick is immediately connected to the house with reinforced meshes, and the insulation is laid in the process.

Light buildings (verandas, sheds, gazebos, garages).

Such masonry for such buildings is relevant only if the load on the wall in half a brick is minimal. And this means that the roof is made with a maximum single-pitched roof. wooden rafters and easy roofing(professional sheet, ondulin, etc.).

The process of working for a stand-alone building is complicated by the fact that there is no way to tie it to anything. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly monitor the verticality of the corners. To do this, it is better to install beacons from a metal corner with applied markings in order.

Verticality is maintained with a cord, which is attached to the raised corners of the building, and as it is laid, it is raised higher.

Fences, fences for beds, retaining walls.

Brick laying in half a brick is also perfect for such simple structures as fences, decorative partitions in the yard, retaining walls in places where soil slips, fences for beds.

Important! When constructing a fence, you need to know that according to SNiP, with a span of 2 m and a height of 1.5 m, the wind load near the wall is 350 kg! Will your design hold up? Therefore, experts recommend building not a solid fence, but making spans with decorative holes. Or increase the thickness of the wall up to 250 mm (brick).

Facing of furnaces, columns.

This is the simplest area of application for half-brick masonry. With such work, with a little effort, even the most inept owner will cope. Although, if the height of the masonry is large, then it is still worth applying reinforcement.

What you need to have before you start

We have already found out that half-brick brickwork has a thickness of 120 mm, this is the width of a standard brick with dimensions of 250x120x65 mm. The longer and higher the wall, the less stable it is, and the more important it is to give it additional strength and reliability.

Therefore, when building partitions, in addition to the brick and mortar itself, you need to have some additional materials and tools on hand.

Masonry tools

Before starting work, you need to purchase essential tool. The absence of any of the items listed below can greatly complicate the work and significantly affect the quality of the masonry.

This:

Pick needed for splitting bricks, if you need to use a half or a quarter. The sharp ends of the shock part break the brick evenly, without chips and notches.
Trowel or trowel used for laying the solution and removing its excess. You do not need to have all the views presented, but a corner or round trowel should be required.
Kiyanka needed to align bricks in a row vertically or horizontally. The impact part made of rubber or wood puts the brick in place without injuring it.
Stitching serves to give the outer seams of the cladding an even, convex or concave shape.
Level controls the horizontal rows.
plumb line controls the verticality of the masonry.
square check the degree of rotation of the corners.
Also here you need to include such a tool as an axial thread, according to it, the laying of each brick is verified. Osevka can serve: thin wire, fishing line or twine - the main thing is that the thread does not stretch or sag.

Reinforcement of masonry

Before you do the brickwork yourself, you need to purchase materials for its reinforcement. Without the use of reinforcement, the strength of the wall is noticeably reduced, especially for long walls and corners.

To strengthen the masonry, the following types of reinforcement are used:

The mesh is straight.

It is produced with different widths and mesh sizes, made of metal wire with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm. Such a diameter fits perfectly into the mortar between the rows, and the thickness of the seam in the brickwork does not increase. Mesh can be easily cut to desired length and width.

The grid is rolled.

Here, too, the width and size of the cells can vary, but the roll allows you to save on length. If, when using a straight grid, there are often trimmings, then in this case you can cut off just as much as you need.

The grid is masonry polymeric.

Polymer mesh has a number of advantages over steel counterparts. It is much lighter, does not rust, has low thermal conductivity.

This means that "cold bridges" are excluded in the masonry. In terms of strength, after setting the solution, the polymer is almost as good as metal meshes. In addition, you can cut the desired width or length with ordinary scissors.

Thanks to its flexibility, it is very convenient to lay between vertical rows and at corners. But if metal mesh it is recommended to insert every 4-5 rows, then the polymer should be placed more often. So, the lower price will not play a special role.

Separate rods.

In addition to meshes, masonry reinforcement can be done with separate rods, made of wire with a diameter of 3–6 mm. They are laid in 1-2 rows in the middle of the masonry, strengthening the vertical and horizontal rows. The overlap of the ends of the wire at the junction is made at least 15 diameters (for reinforcement with a thickness of 5 mm, the overlap will be 75 mm).

Such wire is usually produced in coils of 200 kg or more. In the store you can buy a part of the bay or cut to order into rods of the desired length.

Reinforcing materials for brickwork, directly strengthen the walls. But if you are doing the cladding of the building after the completion of the main masonry, then it must be somehow connected with the main structure in order to avoid deformation and possible collapse.

In this case, flexible connections are used, which consist of a rod (metal or composite) with a length of 180 to 350 mm. One end of the reinforcement is attached to the main wall, and the other is laid in the facing masonry. For better adhesion to the mortar, it is covered with notches or sand spraying.

These methods securely fasten the face brick to the walls, and the diameter of the bonds does not increase the thickness of the seam. Moreover, composite reinforcement does not conduct heat, which means that the heat loss of the house is reduced.

bricklaying technology. Main stages

So, you have everything ready, you can begin work on the construction of walls. We will not touch on the work on the street now - there a small light foundation will have to be laid under the masonry, and this is the topic of another article.

We will analyze the technology of the masonry itself on the basis of the device of the interior partition:

For the construction of thin walls in the apartment is enough: Remove the old coating at the work site, if any. Remove trash. Level the floor (fill the cracks with mortar, remove the bulges). Carefully mark the location of the future partition. Moisten the base for laying bricks. Prepare a solution from the finished mixture, dilution instructions are available on the package.
To prepare the solution with your own hands: Usually cement is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:4 (1 part of cement, 4 parts of sand). Dilute with water to the consistency of thick sour cream. It is necessary that the solution does not flow from the trowel, and does not hang on it, but gently slides off. Then the brick will lay down well, and it will be pleasant to work. For more thorough mixing, you can use a drill with a nozzle or a construction mixer.
To reduce the moisture absorption of a brick, it is also recommended to immerse it in a container of water for a while.
The long narrow side of the brick is called the "spoon", so the whole masonry is called "spoon". In a simple ordinary brick for finishing, it is almost unprocessed. And at finishing material"spoon" has an improved, smooth texture, and does not require additional finishing. The corner facing brick has two adjacent improved sides: a “spoon” and a poke.
The quality of the entire wall will depend on the correctly and evenly laid out first row, so it is very important to lay the brick strictly according to the markup. Two bricks are placed at the ends, an osevka is stretched between them and the horizon is measured out. If the floor is uneven, then the masonry starts from the higher side, and the entire row is taken out along it. If the base is more or less even, then, as an option, the first row can be laid dry and the brick anchored to the base. And the second row, you should bring out the horizontal - this way you can protect the wall from accidental shift.
The following bricks are installed at the ends, the axial thread is transferred to them, the second row is laid. In order not to accidentally move the fresh masonry, it is recommended to take a break after installing 4–5 rows and let the solution stick.
Reinforcement: You need to start with 2-3 rows, and repeat every 4-5 rows. The ends of the masonry are fixed with anchors drilled at one end into the main wall. They are installed during the masonry process in the same way as reinforcement - after 4-5 rows. If the mesh or reinforcement is shorter than the wall, then the overlap of the ends must be at least 15 diameters. Joints of rods or meshes must be placed in rows, staggered one above the other.
Particular attention is paid to the corners, if present. Unable to withstand the verticality and degree of turn, the corner can be “filled up” inward or outward, and hence there will be problems with installing the door and so on. They need to be checked every two rows with a level, and each row with a square (bricks should be located at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to each other). Reinforcement at the corners is done either with meshes with a perpendicular overlap of 70–80 mm, or with individual rods, bent and extending to the adjacent side by 100 mm.
Can't forget about this important point like ligation of stitches. Each brick should half overlap the other in a checkerboard pattern.
When laying in half a brick, the thickness of the vertical and horizontal joints should be: Everywhere is the same - from 6 to 8 mm. Therefore, it is very important that large fragments of the aggregate do not come across in the solution, which can increase the thickness of the solution. To do this, before preparing it, the sand must be sieved through a fine sieve, or use a ready-made cement-sand mixture. So that voids do not form in the vertical seams due to loose filling, it is necessary, having applied the mixture to the end of the brick, press it firmly against the previous one, and, gently tapping with a mallet, squeeze out the excess mortar from the seam.
The thickness of half a brick requires a responsible approach to the arrangement of openings, if they are included in the project. To cover the opening, take a finished jumper 300 mm longer than its width. The jumper must rest on the wall at least 150 mm on each side. Its height is taken equal to the thickness of two bricks. If there is no factory jumper, it can be replaced with two metal corners that have the desired length. The corners are installed on the mortar above the opening with the corners inward, a brick is placed on the shelves between them. This method is good if the wall is additionally finished, and the metal can be hidden under the cladding. Depicted in the photo, additional walls are placed above the opening when the wall will carry any load. For self-supporting partitions, this is not relevant.
Seam stitching. If the masonry will not subsequently be plastered or decoratively finished, the joints should be done with a special tool. This will remove excess mortar, and give the wall an aesthetic appearance. Jointing should be done in the process of work, almost after each laid row, because even after a slight solidification of the solution, it will not be possible to embroider the seam with high quality, the mixture will crumble and fall out. If you missed the moment, then the seams can be moistened with water. Although you still can’t get much beauty anyway. You can also use cement laitance to wet and dilute a hard mortar.

Perhaps this is all that concerns the technology of building a wall in half a brick.

Conclusion

As you already understood, it is not difficult to build a thin wall in an apartment, but you need to constantly monitor the verticality of the corners and the level of the surface plane. Even a novice builder who does not have special skills in this area can cope with such work.

Now you know how to properly lay brickwork so that the wall is even, strong and reliable. We advise you to watch the video in this article, where everything is shown more clearly than in the photo.

Facade insulation will help maintain the comfort and warmth of a half-brick house. External insulation is focused on good heating of the walls and shifting the dew point to the outer surface. Due to this, condensate does not accumulate, which makes it possible for the previously wet wall to dry out due to the divergence of steam.

For thermal insulation of external surfaces, foamed polystyrene and polyurethane, gas-filled polymers are used. These materials have proven themselves well, thanks to moisture resistance, lightness, stable shape and strength.

Materials for insulation from the outside

Protecting the walls with heat-insulating material from the outside from cold and humid air, contributes to their drying with excessive accumulation of moisture. Insulation materials include:

Mineral wool - hard and semi-hard slabs made from silica and basalt. Processing by special means to impart water-resistant and vapor-tight properties. It has a density of 80 to 150 kg/m3 and a thermal conductivity of 0.030 W/m. The material is divided into the following types:
- simple;
- lamellar - due to the perpendicular arrangement of the fibers, they are excellent for warming uneven surfaces and brick walls.
Expanded polystyrene is a durable and easy-to-work material with low water absorption. It has a density of 15 to 50 kg/m3. It is relatively cheap. Duration of service on average from 25 to 35 years. After the expiration of the period, the material begins to partially crumble, due to which the thermal resistance of the wall decreases. The thickness of the plates is from 1 to 50 cm. Suitable only for external insulation. But it has a number of disadvantages:
- ignites easily;
- does not let steam through;
- not suitable for insulation of internal walls;
- attracts mice.
Polyurethane foam is a compound of polyisocyanate and polyol that forms foam when heated. Thermal conductivity from 0.019 to 0.035 W/m3. It passes air well and has a semi-elastic structure, which contributes to excellent sound insulation. Resistant to acids and chemicals. Waterproof and low-combustible material has a service life of 20-30 years. However, there are also negative points:
- high price;
- does not come into contact with mineral acids and organic solvents;
- is a steam passer;
- when installing, you need the help of specialists;
- loses its properties at the end of its service life.

How to make home insulation in half a brick?

External insulation prevents the penetration of pests.

When choosing a sheathing, the material of the building, the nature of the residence are taken into account and it is determined from the inside or outside that work will be carried out. It is better to warm the house from the outside for the following reasons:

Usable area does not change.
The original tightness of the material remains untouched.
Protection against temperature extremes.
Additional protection of the original masonry from pests.
Extends the life of your home.

Warming with mineral wool

The material has a rigid structure, so mineral wool slabs are cut with a knife or saw. Scissors are not suitable for use, since when cut they compress the material, destroying the structure of the thermal insulation. For dense filling when cutting, a margin of 0.5 to 2 cm is needed. The thickness of the insulation on the facades of buildings must be at least 10 cm. Insulation methods:

Mineral wool is taken in slabs, the size of which is built wooden frame. The wall is smeared with adhesive and the “windows” are filled with cotton slabs. Waterproofing and thermal insulation is made between the main and external wall. The house is faced with brick.
Anchors are inserted along the entire perimeter of the main masonry of the house, which are the base-holder of mineral wool slabs. All walls are lined with insulation and fixed with clamps. The house is faced with brick with a small gap. The seams are rubbed and aligned. The house is faced with siding or additional plaster, which is applied to the reinforcing mesh, and then painted.