Do-it-yourself compact workbench for home. We make a carpentry workbench ourselves. Material selection and assembly

Surely, every man in his youth, during labor lessons, more than once had to make some object out of wood, standing for more than one hour at such a device.

And now, having become an adult, and creating beautiful and practical works from wood, you are thinking about purchasing your own carpentry workbench. My advice to you is that you shouldn’t spend money, it’s better to spend a little personal time and get quality time in return.” workplace».

So, what is “ carpentry workbench"? It is stable, solid (often made of wood), the purpose of which lies in the processing of all kinds of products using hand and mechanized tools.

If you are seriously thinking about making a workbench, you should note that there are several types:

Wood or metal?

First of all, before you start creating your own workbench, you should think about what material it will be made of. A wooden base would be appropriate if the intended work area will not take up much space.

The ideal option for the countertop would be laminated chipboard or pressed plywood.. For a stationary sample, a combination of planed wooden boards and metal.

Advice: an old unnecessary table will also work well as a base, or quality door made from solid fabric.

It is not advisable to make a workbench from metal, an acceptable compromise would be a wooden lid and frame with metal sheathing.

It is best to use not one or two vices, but as many as possible. With the help of some, secure without much effort long boards, while others are suitable for fastening small parts.

Dimensions and drawing

Before we start manufacturing, we need to think about its design, dimensions, and purpose. To manufacture parts and assemble the table, you will need to make a drawing. We indicate all the data on it with millimeter accuracy. Next, you will often have to use the drawing in the process of manufacturing individual elements and when assembling the product.

Advice: when drawing up a drawing, focus on the tabletop size of 1600x800 and a height of 870 mm.

Tools

What set of tools will the master need:

Of course the list may vary depending on what material you decide to choose for the base of the workbench, and what design it will be.

Reference: It is extremely important to decide on the height of the workbench at the very beginning. An experienced craftsman will be able to make a device with an adjustable height; others are advised to focus on the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor.

How to do it?

Manufacturing

This process occurs in several stages, the first of which is the base assembly. This is followed by installation of the countertop and installation of all necessary equipment.

We prepare vertical supports and jumpers, drill a through hole in a horizontally located block. Then screw the nut and washer onto the bolt from the groove side. We install jumpers in the middle of the tabletop (there will be drawers between them), and slats are attached to them. The workbench cover will be bolted in place.

Workbench base – wooden frame(it is recommended to use soft wood for their manufacture: linden or pine), the fastenings of which must meet all the requirements of rigidity and stability. That is why, between the legs of your desktop, a jumper should be placed horizontally, and a drawer should be installed along the entire length. They must be secured at a safe distance from the floor (50 cm). This extra space can be useful in the future, and you can easily place small shelves or drawers at the bottom of the workbench.

Then we move on to the stage tabletop constructions. This can be done using several boards, but in this case they must be carefully processed, cleared of debris and sawdust. Its dimensions must exceed the width and length of the base. This solution is necessary for your convenience. This way the work area can be easily cleaned. The tabletop is fixed to the boards located on the opposite side of the workbench being created. Installation of the bars is simply impossible without several grooves (slots, joints) located in the base.

We cover the working surface we have created with a vice. To do this, we construct a plywood spacer from the wrong side, mark with a pencil or pen where the future holes will be. We drill them and attach the vice with nuts.

When creating the stops, adjust their height and place them at a sufficiently large distance from the vice. Such care will ensure guaranteed reliability, and you will be sure that the workpieces will remain on the surface without falling to the floor.

We also construct, they can be mounted on the support of the subsurface space.

Let's start creating drawer guides, which will subsequently serve as storage for all tools and large items. For them we take the back part of the workbench and make recesses.

We nail a couple of transverse bars to the base of the tabletop; grooves must be left for them prematurely. We attach slats horizontally to the jumpers; they will serve for the process of sliding the drawers.

We attach the tabletop to the base with bolts. Using a chisel, we make indentations, drill the indicated places, and then there will be bolts there. It is necessary that their heads do not cause injuries, so they are securely hidden in the countertop.

Assembly

A certain number of vices will need to be attached to the structure. Openings are prepared in advance for them, under which they are subsequently fixed. small size plywood gaskets.

Be careful place the vice at the same level to prevent destruction of the workbench.

We place the attachment points, after which we can start attaching the tools. Hardware is perfect for this.

Important: It is under no circumstances recommended to place the vice close to the corners of your table, otherwise there is a risk of the tool falling off.

It is easy to make supporting elements with your own hands. To do this, simply fix ready-made stops, or drill small openings of a certain size.

Attention: It is not advisable to use bolts as stops; they can damage parts, and dowels are unreliable. Create rectangles, they will serve as ideal and reliable fasteners. Secure the block to the end of the workbench.

Take into account the fact that quite heavy and massive things will subsequently be placed on the countertop, such as:

• wooden clamps;
• turning equipment;
• milling element;
• drill (stationary).

Therefore, it is so important to make sure that the fastenings are reliable and to think through all the options for convenience, so that you do not have to regret the location of certain devices in the future.

Finishing

The finished product can be tidied up using a grinder. After this, cover the entire surface of the desktop with drying oil as a protective and primer layer for paint. This way you will protect yourself from getting splinters and reduce the risk of injury.

Finally, you screw the corners (with bolts) at the base.

It would be more correct to install such a structure in an area of ​​natural light, that is, near a window. Provide additional lighting for your workplace, also do not forget that there should be sockets next to the workbench; in such a situation, an extension cord can “save” you. The most comfortable time spent at a workbench will be if the table is not too high and the light falls from the left or from above.

Photo

Creating furniture is an individual process. You may well end up with something beautiful and convenient:

Useful video

The step-by-step manufacturing process is described in detail in the following video:

Conclusion

Once it appears on the farm, it will become an indispensable assistant and over time, you will see this for yourself. Firstly, a do-it-yourself workbench is a significant savings cash. Secondly, you, as a specialist, acquire practical skills. Thirdly, you will always have a convenient table “at hand” on which you can create interesting and useful household items.

The main object in a workshop or garage, around which the rest of the work area is arranged, is the workbench. Most often, they organize a workbench with their own hands from wood or other available materials. Purchase finished product It won't be cheap, so it's better to make it yourself. This way you can not only save money, but also organize your garage table in strict accordance with your needs for placement and functionality.

Purpose of the workbench

A workbench is a table that is designed for work on the manufacture and installation of products made of metal, wood and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with shelves and drawers for storing accessories and tools, and equipment for fastening workpieces. Based on intended purpose workplace, there are metalworking and carpentry workbenches for working with metal and wood, respectively.

Work tables for garages and workshops can be either multi-seat or single-seat. Workbenches, which are designed for one workplace, are usually within 0.8 m wide and up to 1.5 m long. The parameters of multi-seat locksmith tables grow in accordance with the number of craftsmen working at them. Interval work surface from the floor, as a rule, is 0.8−0.9 m, but there are also designs with adjustable height.

The workbench designs themselves are most often made of wood or metal, and their countertops are covered with sheets of materials such as:

• plywood;
• hardboard;
• galvanized sheet;
• boards, etc.

Equipment manufacturing instructions

It doesn’t matter what it is made of, the main thing is that it has the necessary functionality, is reliable and durable. Its designs do not require the use of expensive equipment or the use of any scarce parts, and during the installation process you can get by with minimal plumbing and carpentry skills.

Wooden workplace

Creating a carpentry workbench with your own hands contains a lot of advantages, which consist in the fact that you can arrange in advance the locations of the vice and other devices, think about the location and quantity drawers and so on.

For self-production workbench You will need to prepare the following tools:

When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention to the integrity of the wooden parts - they should not have knots or cracks. To get started, you will need:

• Bars for the main legs 100 by 100 mm.
• 2 plywood sheets at least 20 mm thick (OSB can be used). One sheet will go on the bottom shelf, and the other on the table top.
• The boards are 50 by 150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted.
• Bolts (it is preferable to use furniture bolts with a square part - they effectively prevent their mobility in wooden parts).
• Nuts and washers.
• Self-tapping screws.

To facilitate assembly and avoid errors when cutting material, it is advisable to make drawings of the future workbench and indicate on them all the parameters of each part.

Sequence of work

First of all, you need to make the upper frame of the underframe. In accordance with the drawing, boards of the required length are sawn off.

Using self-tapping screws, short and long parts are fastened in such a way as to create a rectangular frame. Then measure the distance along the long side to its middle and install a spacer bar in a deliberate place. As such, the same board 50 by 150 mm is used, it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws at both ends.

The support legs for the workbench are made of six bars of the same size. To fasten them to the upper frame, long bolts with washers and nuts are used. To install the support, place the block in the corner of the frame and drill 2 through holes through the side board and the leg. After this, the connections are tightened using nuts and bolts.

To achieve the required structural rigidity, lower boards are installed. By the way, the same the parts will also form the base of the lower shelf. For this purpose, 4 wooden parts with a cross-section of 150 mm are sawn off in full accordance with the drawings.

In order to secure the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the end of each support. At the measured height, one piece is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and on the front side, the board is attached between the side and middle support on the side in which the additional shelf will be installed.

Several short boards are mounted at the same height along the side edges of the workbench.

With the help electric jigsaw or hacksaws, elements for the table top are cut from plywood or OSB sheets. It will be fixed flush to the upper area of ​​the desktop with self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is placed on top of the plywood, which can be easily replaced with a new one as it wears out. To mount the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the outer to middle legs. The material is cut to this size using a hacksaw or jigsaw, and cutouts are created in its corners for the support legs. Attaching the sheet to the lower base is carried out in the same way as installing a table top.

To achieve stability of the frame structure, a carpenter's square must be used when installing and securing the supports when assembling the workbench frame. After installation of the structure bubble level measures accuracy the horizontality of its location. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces of thin plywood under the legs.

Upon completion of assembly, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective compound and painted or varnished.

Making an outdoor workbench for working outdoors - in a country house or in the courtyard of a private house - is, in general, no different. The only thing worth considering is portability and foldability. A folding workbench may be appropriate if there is not enough space for technical premises.

However, given the specifics of outdoor placement, it is necessary to take care in advance about the stability of the place where the workbench is placed, as well as its sufficient protection from weather conditions: it will need to be placed under a canopy, and the structure itself will need to be covered with special protective compounds.

A home handyman must have convenient place, this is a guarantee not only of convenience and speed of work, but also of safety. High quality workbenches European production they cost as much industrial equipment, Chinese and handicraft assemblies are not reliable. However, you can make a good workbench with your own hands, because, in essence, it is a table equipped with various fasteners, stops and a place to store tools.

Workbench project

The height of the workbench depends on the height of its owner; it should be comfortable to stand, without slouching, to perform basic operations. For average height, this is usually 70-90 cm. The configuration of the workbench and the necessary fastenings and devices depend on what operations are most often performed on it, but it is worthwhile to provide several stops and a pair of screw vices or clamps (). You also need to take into account which hand the owner of the workbench uses.

Workbench diagram - first option

The width and length of the workbench depend on the area of ​​the workshop; it is convenient if the length of the workbench is at least 2 meters and the width is 80-100 cm. It is convenient if drawers or cabinets are mounted under the workbench for storing tools and consumables.

When designing a workbench, you need to consider whether it will be permanently installed in the workshop or constantly assembled and disassembled. In the second case, it would be reasonable to lighten the structure due to a material of less thickness. In a collapsible workbench, you can make a tabletop that can be unscrewed, or you can also provide folding legs.

It is better to place the workbench near the window; additional local lighting is also required. Directly next to the workbench you need to provide several electrical outlets for the equipment. All wires near the work area must be enclosed in a box or corrugated pipe.

Selection of materials

The optimal material for a workbench is planed timber, from which the frame frame and legs will be made. For legs, you can take it with a size of 100 * 70 mm, and for jumpers - 100 * 50 mm. The tabletop can be made from smooth boards 5 cm thick. It can also be made from a single piece, for example, an old blind door or laminated chipboard with a fairly durable coating. For a workbench, it is better to choose hard wood, preferably beech, oak or maple. Thicker bars and boards will make the workbench heavier and more stable, and will be more comfortable to work on.

Fasteners for making a workbench are selected taking into account whether it will be prefabricated or dismountable. Self-tapping screws, nails and nuts with bolts will come in handy.

Before building a workbench, you need to select a vice. It is convenient if there are 2 of them - on the right side and on the left in front. In the first, you can fix long boards, and in the second, you can clamp short parts. The most universal jaw width is 175 mm.

Scheme of the second version of the workbench

We are building a workbench. Base

The production of a workbench takes place in 2 stages: assembly of the base and installation. At each stage and during each operation, you need to control the size of the parts and the evenness of their installation using a level.

The base is a frame of beams fastened in such a way that the structure is as rigid as possible. To do this, a horizontal jumper is placed between the legs of the workbench, and a drawer is provided in the middle, along the length. The lintels and drawer are placed 40-50 cm from the floor, then shelves for storing tools can be installed on them. The beams for the base are combined using a tongue-and-groove connection, gluing it. In places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. If the workbench is expected to be disassembled, then the parts of the support frame can be connected using metal corners. Usually, the grooves and tenons are first prepared according to the drawing, and then the entire structure is assembled at once, gluing the joints with wood glue and fixing them with clamps.

A good option for a stationary workbench is if one or more parts of the support frame can be screwed to the wall, so the structure will be even more reliable. Strength can be increased by using diagonal bridges or wedge-shaped inserts between the legs and top part frames made of the same timber, which are fastened with self-tapping screws. The narrow ends of the upper part of the frame also need to be connected with a jumper.

Tabletop and useful accessories

If the tabletop is constructed from separate boards, then they need to be properly fitted to each other so that debris does not get into the cracks. The size of the tabletop should be a few centimeters larger than the base to make it convenient to work and clean. The boards are nailed or screwed to 3 bars located across the boards with reverse side countertops. In the base you need to provide grooves for these bars.

The board tabletop is carefully sanded several times and coated with a protective solution, preferably oil or drying oil, to avoid injury from chips during further work. The tabletop is screwed to the base using metal corners.

A vice is attached to the finished tabletop; a recess must be provided for it at the end of the tabletop so that the vertical plate forms one plane with it. You will also need a plywood pad on the underside of the workbench. The jaws of the vice should be flush with the surface of the countertop. Applying a vice, mark the location for the holes and secure them with bolts and nuts (M12 is suitable). The holes for the bolt heads must be pre-milled so that they sink completely into them. The vice should not be located in the very corner, so as not to tear it off under heavy load.

In addition to the vice, it is necessary to provide stops on the workbench. You can secure ready-made ones by drilling a hole of the required diameter in the tabletop, or make them yourself. You should not use bolts or round dowels instead of stops, since the bolts can damage the workpieces with their heads, and the dowels do not fix the parts well enough.

It is easier to make rectangular stops, or pegs, which are adjustable in height for different parts and securely fix them. Under them you need to make holes in the tabletop or build it up using blocks of suitable thickness, screwed to its edge, and covered with a strip on the other side. The nests should be located from each other at a distance of half the travel of the vice so that any workpiece can be fixed.

The pegs themselves are cut out of hard wood; you can make them with a “spring” that is screwed to the base, or you can simply make them rectangular. The rectangular stops can be slightly expanded at the top, then they will be fixed in the sockets more reliably.

Building a carpentry workbench with your own hands is not an easy task, but then this workplace will be able to serve the owner for a long time, acquire useful parts and devices, and adapt to the specific needs of each craftsman.

1. Three mistakes
2. About universal workbenches
3. Work bench
4. Workbench composition
5. Bed: metal or wood?
6. For carpentry
7. Vise and joinery for mechanics
8. Workbench for garage
9. Home station wagon
10. The younger shift
11. Workbenches for the dacha

The general principle of the development of materials processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make parts for more precise ones using inaccurate equipment. And it all started with a workbench; prototypes of it are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to make a workbench with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but will also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its results.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make themselves workbenches on which, figuratively speaking, you can smash a tank with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition of industrial prototypes in a design for one’s own use, designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years, is one of typical mistakes development of workbenches of our own design.

The second is neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “game” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations have a particularly strong effect on workbenches on a metal frame.

The third - repeat carpentry or metal workbenches; perhaps with some modifications to suit your needs. Meanwhile, workbench designs for home/hobby work of different nature a lot. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, conversely, universal, temporary, made from scrap materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper, in accordance with the range of needs and/or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from scrap trash, at home for small precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, which are sometimes quite expensive, you can find “universal” workbenches in the form of a carpenter’s bench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vice on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:

"Universal" factory-made workbench

This is a wrong decision not only because the wooden tabletop is damaged by carpentry work. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. Wood soaked in them becomes much more flammable. Self-ignition is also possible; Remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oily rags in production. A different approach to designing the tabletop (board, lid) of a universal workbench is needed based on the type of work it is primarily used for - fine or coarse, see below.

Work bench

In the West, amateur/home workbenches with a stacked table top framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a “work bench” are shown in Fig. Under the fitter, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pad.

The bench workbench dampens vibrations well; It can be made from pine or spruce. But the design is complex, and it is inconvenient to work with long materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then a garage and a mechanic's workbench. Next we will try to combine them into universal workbench and let's see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

Workbench composition

A workbench of “our” type (conditionally, since it is impossible to accurately determine its origin) consists of:

• A bench (in carpentry workbenches), or a bed (in metalworking benches), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• An apron on which the tool is hung. An apron is not a necessary accessory for a workbench; it can hang on the wall or be replaced with a cabinet, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the installation location and type of work within the range of 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

The lid and shelf are most often made at the same time, one-piece, and are simply called a lid, a workbench board or a tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on a base (bed, substrate) made of wood. In a metalworking workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet of 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and the ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, twists, etc. defects) solid fine-grained wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) also serves as a shelf; in a workbench for the home, for the sake of simplifying it, without sacrificing quality, it is possible to have 2 -layer construction, see below.

The traditional design of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the carpentry shelf. This comes from the master craftsmen of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed/bench that you should start developing your workbench, no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over one on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood used is seasoned and impregnated, it will never bend. Secondly, wood perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops in a factory? And the overall strength and stability of the home workbench frame will be fully ensured by commercial coniferous wood of ordinary quality.

The design of a wooden workbench frame made from 120x40 boards is shown on the left in Fig. Permissible static load – 150 kgf; dynamic vertically downward for 1 s – 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on 6x70 self-tapping screws in a zigzag (snake) pattern with a distance from the edge of 30 mm and a pitch of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; the snakes on both sides of the package are made in mirror image. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel angles on self-tapping screws; the edge ones - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the tenons of the posts and, on the outside, with corners.

If timber 150x50 or (180...200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in Fig. The load-bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from timber 150x150, 150x75 and (180...200)x60 you can build a frame capable of bearing 450 kgf in static conditions and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: Any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Under the joinery, a box-shaped lid is placed on it (see below), and under the fitter, a tray from a 60x60x4 angle with welded 4-mm strips above the intermediate beams is placed. A wooden cushion is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding work for its manufacture, can be made according to the following scheme. rice. The “trick” here is in the tabletop, glued together from 75x50 timber and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts – timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and welding is available. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in Fig. Materials – corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Boxes are made of galvanized steel. Disadvantage - it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs; the structure will lose its ability to bear dynamic loads.

For a load of 200/600, a more convenient one is suitable metal workbench according to the diagram at the top right from a corrugated pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120...150)x40.

Shelf – steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x(30...35) self-tapping screws, a pair at each edge of each board, and along the outer boards - in increments of (60...70) mm. Only in this design will the workbench show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: for carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adjusted as described below. A bench vise is mounted on a wooden pad, but is not secured with a clamp. A collet anchor for an M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice pad from below, and a through hole is drilled in the cover for it. A 60x2 washer is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vices.

For carpentry

The cover of a carpenter's workbench, unlike a metalworker's one, is tightly attached to the bench and is box-shaped for overall rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-dismountable workbench - steel angles and self-tapping screws. The underbench can also be a steel frame from those described above.

How a carpentry workbench works traditional type, shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it on pos. B. The bench board (in this case it is a separate device) is used to work with long pieces. The support in its groove is made from a wedged piece of board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and secure it into the sockets with bolts with conical heads. The traditional design of a carpentry bench is shown in pos. G, but – see above.

It is possible to reduce the cost of the carpentry workbench cover by making it 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for the shelf. They lay it by laying the boards with “humps” of annual layers, alternately up and down, to avoid warping. The shelf flooring is first glued together with PVA or carpentry glue, tightly compressed with a clamp or wrapped with a cord; put on the pillow using the same glue. The lid skirt is assembled separately using glue and through tenons (inset in pos. B) and attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Carpentry vice

Solid wood carpenter's vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by vices with metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some comments are necessary here.

First, you need to place 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the cushion (wood 4x4x1 cm). Secondly, if the nut is not custom-made or purchased, then at least temporarily acquire a set of taps for the thread you are using. In this case, do not try to use a screw that is too thick for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is quite enough.

The nut of a homemade clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to recess it into the clamp pad, this way there is less chance that the nut will break off when clamped. But welding will cause the thread to go ugly; you can’t get rid of it with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be passed with taps according to the complete pattern, as when cutting: first tap - second - third (if included in the kit).

Note: The nut welded to the base must be allowed to rest for 2 hours before passing the thread so that the residual deformations “settle down.”

Vise and joinery for mechanics

The vice on a metalworking bench is installed in the corner (see inset in the figure) so that as much of the dynamic loads as possible during metal processing fall vertically on the corner post. It is advisable to make the location of the transverse beams and intermediate vertical posts of a workbench with a stationary vice slightly asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with the vice. The vice is also installed starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under an installation bolt, and a tall nut or threaded bushing is welded into a metal one (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastening unit is welded, the threads are threaded with taps, as in a homemade nut in a carpentry vice, see above;
• Place the vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark the holes for fastening points 2, 3 and 4;
• The vice is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
• Place a vice on bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For fastening to bolt 4, place a jib U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to secure the jib, but it must rest from the bottom against the upper frame (frame) of the bed, but not against the table top!
• Finally attach the vice to bolt 4.

Note: Stationary power tools are also secured in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs from plastic bottles, they endure a tight fit many times.

Workbench for garage

It is impossible to make a workbench in a garage with an optimal width for the ergonomics of the workspace - the dimensions of a standard box of 4x7 m with a car parked in it do not allow it. Long ago, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined to be 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and it is more or less possible to work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor removed for rebuilding) turns out to be unstable, so it is attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench “resounds” stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

A diagram of the structure of one section of a garage workbench is shown in Fig. This design uses an ingenious method of additional vibration damping: the cells of the lid frames and the bottom shelf of the edge farthest from the corner are of different sizes. The installation accuracy of the crossbars is +/– 1 cm. For the same purpose, the lid and bottom shelf are made of 32 mm thick laminated chipboard and covered with linoleum instead of steel. Its durability is sufficient for garage work; can be easily replaced.

Fastening to walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Recess into a stone wall is 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the self-tapping screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already wall-mounted, and the wall-mounted one is on the left in Fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood is 10-12 mm. Opening for the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling machine” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the shavings fall directly onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench cabinet with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; It is also suitable for fine work in the home (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on cardboard. To fold, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, perhaps a folding workbench box would be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they engage in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, model making, watchmaking, artistic cutting from plywood, etc. For small, delicate work, a universal workbench is suitable, drawings of which and its accessories are given in Fig. The durability of the working surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the tabletop is covered with linoleum. The bench vise for this workbench needs to be small, with a screw clamp fastening.

More about plywood

In general, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because... she calls back well. If the board cushion of the bench is made from plywood, then to its underside you need to glue a frame (frame) also made of plywood to its underside, see fig. Then it is advisable to first cover the upper (working side) with linoleum without a lining, and then lay the steel on it.

The younger shift

Another case when making a workbench board from plywood is justified is a student workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not beat him too much in vain, but work carefully. For the same purpose, masters of the past deliberately gave their students bad instruments.

Workbenches for the dacha

When country house or other light wooden structure is just being built, there is no time for bench intricacies, you need at least something on which to carry out simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can whip up a carpentry workbench for a summer house from scrap materials, on the left in Fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we make good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on arranging the dacha, a mini-workbench will be useful, on the right in Fig. With minimal material consumption and an extremely simple design, it is sufficiently stable for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because the middle of the bench board is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will be foldable and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed along with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha inhabited permanently or all summer, with a craftsman owner, by the way, you will need a more complex but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

Video: DIY folding workbench

Working area for home handyman, of course, can be purchased at a specialty store. But such a place will not be imbued with authenticity and individuality, and will not convey the character and mood of the owner. That’s why we suggest you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. It is also called plumbing or universal. Get ready, the process is not quick. It is important to choose the right materials, calculate the dimensions, and perform accurate assembly.

However, we note in advance that even if you create your own carpentry workbench, you are unlikely to be able to make luxurious solid wood furniture on it, especially with an antique effect. Therefore, if you need such pieces of furniture, we advise you to look at the page http://derevmaster.ru/starinnaya-mebel of the website owned by Ruslan Koryshko’s Workshop. They have been manufacturing various wooden products for home and garden for many years.

A carpenter or mechanic processes small objects from 1 centimeter and large ones that reach a length of 3 meters. It is inconvenient to tinker with such units “on your knees”; the quality of such work is unlikely to be worthy. Therefore, before starting work, any self-respecting carpenter or mechanic will prepare a workplace.

Structurally, it is a table with shelves and drawers for tools. A vice is usually placed on the table, which helps to fix the object for further processing.

In appearance, you can make a metalworker's (carpenter's) table with your own hands:

• mobile. It is easy to move and does not take up much space. But it is not intended for storing tools; the working area is small;

A mobile workbench takes up little space, but is inconvenient to use

• stationary. Installed in workshops, garages, specially equipped rooms. Made from steel or wood. Cannot be moved or disassembled. Plenty of space for storing tools, a wide working area;
• modular. Assembled from several parts. It can be made higher or lower, narrower or wider, shorter or longer at the request of the owner. Takes up a lot of space. Inconvenient to use, according to professionals.

If you need a metalworker's (carpenter's) table for regular work within one room, then best choice– stationary design. It consists of the following parts:

• support. These are, in fact, vertical and horizontal bars that hold the tabletop and equipment;

The support of the workbench must be reliable to support the weight of the tabletop and tools

• work area (table top) or workbench board. There are grooves and notches on it. They are needed to fix the item that will be processed. The tabletop is massive, strong, reliable;
• vice, box. They press the object to the surface, which makes work easier. The optimal number of vices on one table is two;
• shelves. Serve for storing equipment.

The following video will tell you about the variety of workbenches:

What will be useful?

At home, it is easier (to assemble a metal structure you will need a welding machine and skills) to assemble a structure from wood - beech, hornbeam or oak. They are considered the most durable and wear-resistant.

Expensive material (from 3 thousand rubles per linear meter) is needed for the countertop. Savings in this case will lead to annual (or more frequent) replacement of the surface.

Oak, hornbeam or beech are used for up to 10 years. Pine or linden is used for support.

It is better to make the tabletop from beech, hornbeam, oak. These are the most stable and wear-resistant materials

In order to assemble a mechanic with your own hands, you will need:

• plywood 2 centimeters thick, measuring 2.5 by 1.5 meters. The smoother the sheet, the more attractive the working area looks;
• solid wood 5-6 centimeters thick, 1.5 meters long, 0.75 meters wide;
• 4 beams 1 meter high, 10 centimeters wide, 10 centimeters long;
• 8 bars 70 centimeters high, 6 centimeters wide, 6 centimeters long;
• two-meter board for shelves.

Equipment:

• drill;
• saw;
• clamps;
• quick-drying glue;
• level;
• bolts and nuts;
• self-tapping screws;
• square

In some cases, a tarlap may be useful. This is an indispensable tool for holding objects.

Manufacturing stages

Paradoxically, in order to make a simple carpentry table with your own hands, drawings are not required. We make a folding universal workbench with our own hands step by step:

• Let's assemble the table. The plywood sheet needs to be divided into 2 parts. The dimensions of each of them will be 1.25 by 0.75 meters. This is the base of the table. Now the 2 parts are connected to each other using superglue. One is placed on top of the other, with glue between them. This strengthens the surface. Plywood is a rather fragile material, which is why it is laid in two and sometimes even three layers. To prevent the parts from moving before they are fixed in one place, a load weighing about 30 kilograms is placed on them. For additional fixation, the sheets are fastened with clamps; they are removed one day after fastening the plywood.
• The plywood base is laid on a wooden base. In this way, the array is protected from the negative effects of various tools and strengthened. Sometimes (this is not necessary) parts of plywood are also glued along the perimeter of the array. Their thickness is equal to the thickness of the array plus the plywood base.
• Let's assemble the base (bed). 4 beams 1 x 0.1 x 0.1 meters are vertical legs. 8 beams with dimensions of 0.7 x 0.06 x 0.06 meters will serve as the lower and upper tie between the legs (it is necessary for the stability of the structure). The area where the screed and the leg are connected to each other with self-tapping screws or bolts (at the discretion of the master) must be treated with super glue.
• A tabletop is installed on the frame. The parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the seams are reinforced with superglue and bolts and nuts.
• A board is placed on the lower screeds, which is adjusted to size; the same is done with the upper screed; you get two spacious shelves where it is convenient to store tools. The board is secured to the ties with self-tapping screws. The metalworker's (carpenter's) table is ready.

This is the simplest metal workbench, the dimensions can be changed according to the needs of a particular craftsman. A vice is placed on the surface. They are secured using self-tapping screws or bolts. Do-it-yourself carpenter's vices for a workbench are made from the following parts:

• support;
• moving part;
• metal guides;
• running screw;
• knobs for rotation.

But it’s still easier to purchase a vice in a specialized store. In order to turn parts, you need time, expensive equipment and professional skills.

In order to make a complex workbench with your own hands, you will definitely need drawings. What to consider when drawing a drawing of a mechanic's workbench with your own hands:

• compartments that will be located in the table cabinet;
• sockets for placing stops that hold long objects;
• additional vice;
• table installation location.

Examples of drawings:

Drawing of a workbench with tool storage area

Drawing of the simplest workbench

Operating rules

Any carpentry (metalwork) workbench will last a long time if the following rules for its use are observed:

• keep away from moisture. Wood quickly absorbs liquid, swells and cracks;
• The table must be varnished before commissioning. At least the simplest one. The price for a can of varnish in a hardware store is from 200 rubles. The varnish will increase the service life of the workbench by 2-3 times;
• regularly clean from dirt;
• put tools back after use;
• wipe up spilled chemical liquids and oil to prevent premature wear of the countertop;
• if the table is stationary, then it should be in one place. It is not advisable to constantly move it; the support will quickly become loose.

In conclusion

The main thing is correctly calculated dimensions. If you make a bench with your own hands, the drawings are drawn up only in strict accordance with the dimensions. It is important that the table is not too low or high, narrow or wide. It must suit the parameters of a specific user.

Think about quality lighting. An excellent option in this case is fluorescent lamps.

You can also learn how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands from the following video: