How to insulate wooden factory windows with your own hands. Insulation of wooden windows. Space between frame and slope

Have you heard that in England many houses still have old, single wooden windows? And it's not because there's no money to replace it. The English are tributaries of tradition. By the way, Voltaire chairs with high backs are designed to protect old people from drafts that constantly walk in the room. Another thing is the Russian people. He would be happy to put plastic, but there is no way. And according to this - the insulation of old windows is not a tribute to tradition, but an everyday necessity.

We are talking about the insulation of window frames, because hardly anyone insulates new wooden ones. For comparison, in Moscow, a PVC window measuring 1300 by 1400 mm will cost 8,000 rubles. While a new wooden one will cost as much as 15,000! Hence the conclusion: we are talking about "grandmother's" windows and are looking for relatively budget, but effective options isolation.

Approaches to the insulation of old windows

Warming of old wooden windows can be done outside and inside. If you live in an apartment above the second floor, the latter option is more likely to suit you. However, it is still possible to carry out some work on external insulation.

In the case of wooden windows, there can be several problems:

It can blow from under the windowsill - in this case, the seam of the frame and the window, hidden under the tide, may be a problem.
The reason may be in a bad joint between the sash and the frame (for example, due to skew).
It is possible to blow through the junction of the frame and the wall.
Often in wooden windows it blows from under the glazing bead - the junction of glass and frame.

Each of these problems has its own solution.

materials

Using cotton and tape

When a wooden window is blown around the perimeter or has large gaps in the frame itself, cotton wool and tape are often used. Cotton wool, due to the porous structure, perfectly retains heat. It is inexpensive. In addition, when there is no longer a need for insulation in the spring, cotton can be freely removed from the cracks. Sequence of work:

Cotton wool needs to be tamped into all the cracks;
Slots on top are sealed with special window tape;

Instead of adhesive tape, they used paper moistened with laundry soap or fabric strips. However, this method is becoming a thing of the past with the advent of tapes that do not leave marks on frames.

Remember that wet cotton wool will retain heat very poorly. Therefore, the insulation of wooden windows must be carried out in dry weather or the places where the wool will be laid must be thoroughly dried.

Paraffin

How to insulate old wooden windows with paraffin? Paraffin is a waxy material often used in candles. If you cannot find it for sale in your city, you need to melt an inexpensive candle. This option is suitable for small gaps in the frame itself. If the gap is still large, paraffin can also be used for sealing, but first you need to plug the gap with cotton wool or rope. After that, the molten paraffin is drawn into a large syringe and pumped into the slot. This method was used back in Soviet times and has long been convinced that the wax material retains heat well.

Seals

Insulation for window frames, made more often from foam rubber, has also been used for a long time. There are two types of such materials:

cut strips;
Tube seals.

If the first option is well suited for large gaps - for example, gaps between the frame and the wall, then the second has a self-adhesive base. Such seals are thinner and can be used inside the sash itself. Although, thin strips of foam rubber are also laid in these places.

Learning from bees and using toilet paper

Although this method of window insulation is classified as completely archaic, nevertheless, as a tribute to history, it can also be remembered. Window sealing toilet paper they say, even similar to how bees insulate their hives. Paper contains cellulose, the material that protects bees and is contained in their combs.

To use, the paper must be soaked and placed in the slots. After drying, it will acquire a porous structure and retain air well - the main insulation.

Warming up seriously

If tapes or seals do not solve the problem, use mounting foam. This advice belongs to the category of external insulation of wooden windows with your own hands. It is necessary to carefully remove the ebb. Most often it is fastened with several screws.

Due to the long presence on the street, all fasteners could rust, and the ebb may not be removed. Don't try to tear it off. It is better to be patient, and yet carefully unscrew the screws and remove it. After removal, carefully inspect the seam between the frame and the bottom of the opening. If there is a gap there, it is the cause of significant heat leakage.

For the "reconstruction" of the seam you will need:

Mounting foam;
Vapor barrier film (small piece);
Waterproofing tape;
Primer;
Rag.

Process

Carefully, with a rag, clean the gap from dust and debris. Perhaps there is remnants of mortar or mounting foam. Most often, it's best to completely scrub everything to create a new protective layer.
Apply a layer of primer to the place where the mounting foam will be blown later.
Lay a vapor barrier film.
Apply a sufficient layer of mounting foam.
Lay down and fasten waterproofing film using a construction stapler. Waterproofing should ensure a long life of mounting foam, which is afraid of moisture.

If there is a need to close the gaps from the inside, you can make the solution yourself. To do this, mix chalk and building gypsum. Material ratio 1/2. After mixing, it is necessary to dilute the powder with water to the desired consistency.

Additional nuance

Of the four problems listed at the beginning, we have considered three. Fourth left: how to insulate wooden windows if it blows between the glass and the frame.

Once in the article it was already discussed how the "Third Glass" can be used. So this very film will be the solution to our problem. In order not to paint everything again in detail here, follow the link a little higher.

Instruction by example

After discussion different ways the question arises: how to insulate wooden windows in practice? Let's not delay and let's get started:

Carefully inspect the window and determine the problem. If you have been carrying out the procedure for more than a year, most likely you already know;

Let's take a "moderate" situation as an example. We saw that the frame elements themselves, as well as the joint between the window opening and the frame, need to be sealed.

Let's start with the first problem;
Choose and buy;
We measure the desired size and cut off a piece;
We clean the surface, if necessary, you can wash the frame;
We lay the foam rubber and close the frame;

We turn to solving the second problem - the gaps between the frame and the wall;

Cotton wool or a wide strip of foam rubber can also be hammered into such slots;

Cut off a strip of the desired length from the foam roll;
We hammer it into the slot;
We seal it with a special tape that does not leave marks on the frame.

On this, the insulation of wooden windows can be considered complete. From experience, many owners know that achieving an ideal situation is unlikely to succeed. Although ... Today, more and more often they offer a comprehensive repair of wooden windows.

Complex repair

What does window repair or restoration include? On the example of one company from St. Petersburg, let's see the list of services. So, you can count on:

Installation of new ebbs and window sills;
Strengthening window hinges;
sash adjustment;
Application of Swedish technology for insulation;
Replacing glazing beads;
Window painting.

Nice list, right? Prices are quite reasonable, considering that the service includes the entire package listed. Below is the price list from the website.

Wooden frames are much more environmentally friendly than plastic ones, but regular maintenance is required for such windows. One of the necessary items is the insulation of windows for the winter. No matter how well the wooden frames are made, over time they dry out, drafts appear in the house. In order not to drown the street, gaps need to be sealed.

Cardinal insulation of wooden windows

Wood windows can blow into the gap between the glass and the frame. This "disease" is treated separately. Another possible source of cold air is sashes that do not fit snugly against the frame. For a good and long-term effect, the insulation of wooden windows is best done in two stages. First get rid of blowing from under the windows, then minimize the gaps in the frames. Such insulation is guaranteed to give a good result. It is worth starting the insulation with the installation of glass on silicone, which came to replace the old putty, but it works much better, retains its properties longer.

Wooden windows are beautiful, but they require care and maintenance.

Glass sealing

To reduce the blowing of heat through the windows, the glass must be installed without gaps. Most effective way- use sealant. For glass, you will need a transparent silicone sanitary sealant. You can take not sanitary, but for aquariums. It differs in that fungus or mold never appears on the surface. And this is possible if the windows will “cry”. When buying, pay attention to temperature regime use - it should easily withstand the minimum temperatures for your area. Then the insulation of wooden windows will be effective.

To make it easier to work, it is better to remove the frame and carry out all the actions on the table. Why shoot? You will have to take out the glass. If the window is really old, the frame can warp without glass. Then you still have to remove it and align it, and this is not at all as easy as it seems. So it's better to remove the sash. Next, the procedure is as follows:

remove old glazing beads;
we separate the glass, clean it from putty, dust, degrease along the edges;
we clean the frame from paint and everything that can fall off;
we apply a strip of sealant on the ledge of the frame for installing glass;
lay glass, press;
leave for several hours - until the sealant polymerizes (the time is indicated on the package);
We take new glazing beads, nail them into place.

If time is running out, you can not wait until the sealant polymerizes, but immediately install the glazing beads. The north window can be made even warmer - go through the sealant under the glazing bead. Double sealing of glasses will turn out. Also do if the wind constantly blows into it.

Let me give you one piece of advice: if you see that the frames will soon fall apart, reinforce the corners with overhead corners (at least). This will allow the frame to hold its shape more rigidly and new gaps will not appear for at least a few years.

Insulation of wooden windows without sealing the glass will not give the desired effect. It is checked up repeatedly, and not only at home. My son had the coldest class at school. After the glass was put on sealant and new glazing beads were installed, it became much warmer. The class became almost the warmest. Try it. It really works.

How to close the gaps between the frame and sashes

Very often in old wooden windows there are gaps between the frame and the sashes. It is through these gaps that heat is blown out. To avoid similar situation these gaps are sealed. There are modern materials for sealing:

The self-adhesive base of any sealant allows you to quickly and easily stick it on the frame, but after a while, the glue stops holding and the tape peels off. You need to change the seal. With foam rubber, this is not too annoying - it costs a penny, but the rubber seal is quite expensive. To prevent this from happening, after installation, secure the seal with staples from a construction stapler. It will be necessary to choose staples of sufficient width with long legs. Stainless steel or copper is better, as steel will rust. Staples are placed in increments of 20 cm, more often in the corners. If it is necessary to replace the rubber seal due to loss of elasticity, the staples can be easily removed with a conventional screwdriver.

It is possible to glue the sealant both on the frame and on the sash. It is important that the window closes normally and does not blow

It is necessary to glue the sealant on the place of the frame to which the sash adjoins. It's easier and more convenient. The thickness is selected according to the size of the gap. A very thick one can interfere with closing the window, a thin one will not give tightness. And another point: when gluing with a rubber seal, leave small gaps: two in the vertical part and one in the horizontal. Otherwise, the windows will "cry".

How else to insulate windows

Other materials can be used instead of foam or rubber seals. Insulation of wooden windows can be done using:

The last two methods of window insulation described above cannot be called humane. There is a high probability that the varnish or paint will be damaged, and in order for the window to have a normal appearance, it will have to be repainted or varnished again.

What else can be used for insulation

Other materials can be used to insulate wooden windows. For example, to eliminate the gaps between the frame and the sash, use:

cotton wool twisted into bundles;
foam strips;
cloth cord.

This window insulation is called the "grandmother's" method. This is exactly what they did (and continue) when they did not hear about plastic windows yet. These materials are twisted into a tight bundle and, using a screwdriver or a table knife, are pushed into the slots. It is more convenient in this regard to work with foam rubber - it is pushed into any cavity.

Then, in order to completely block access to air, a strip of paper or fabric is glued on top. Paper or cloth can be moistened in a paste (dilute 1 tablespoon of flour or starch in 2 tablespoons cold water, add a little boiling water, put on a small fire, boil, stirring for transparency). The paste can be replaced with soaked laundry or cosmetic soap. You can simply put a bar of soap in warm water, run a cloth or paper over the soaked part and stick it on the frame. After drying, the paper and fabric become much denser, they almost do not let air through.

If the "grandmother's" method of insulation does not please you, you can use building (paper) adhesive tape or paper for sticking windows with adhesive applied on one side. It turns out the same, but a little more expensive. But less "fuss". But construction tape sometimes peels off badly - with pieces of paint. And the "grandmother's" way is removed without problems and even the paint that does not adhere too well remains in place.

Window insulation from the outside

Sometimes the glass is "planted" on silicone, all the cracks are sealed, and it blows from the window. This means that the insulation has fallen into disrepair, which paved the gap between the wall and the window frame. To do everything thoroughly, you need to get to the heater and change it. This is long and difficult, because in the process you can break the frame. Faster and easier to use mounting foam. Foam, again, is better to take with a weak expansion. It can be found, although it is rare. Walk and purposefully look for a balloon, where it is written - a weak expansion. The ones that are usually sold can squeeze out / warp the frame. This will not help, but will only worsen the situation.

After examining the perimeter of the frame, you can find holes. Most often, a significant gap is found under the ebb. They can be both on the sides and on top, but here they usually either have slopes or are plastered. If you can see that the plaster has fallen off or there are obvious voids under the slopes, it will be necessary to somehow provide access. It is difficult to suggest exactly how - it is necessary to decide on the spot.

Having gained access to the cavity, proceed as follows. Clean out everything that is possible, remove everything that falls off and crumbles. Use a spray bottle to moisten the cavity with water. Gently, in layers, blow with foam. If the hole is too large, do not apply too much foam at once. It is better to apply it in layers, waiting for the polymerization of each layer.

When filling, do not overdo it - low-expansion mounting foam should fill the void by no more than 2/3 (with normal or strong, several times less). Leave until polymerization (the time is indicated on the bottle). After the mounting foam has become rigid, we cut off the excess, we achieve tightness with paint. Such insulation of wooden windows will allow you to avoid drafts for a long time and keep warm.

We tighten the film

If you have done all possible types of work, but the room is still cold, you will have to use an extreme method - tighten the window with a film. Yes, it's not pretty. But better not very beautiful, but warm. This method is usually used for windows facing the backyard. We take a dense transparent plastic film, stretch it outside on the window, fixing it with strips from the street. Not the most aesthetic window insulation, but effective.

Ugly? But it's warm...

Why does this method work? Because an additional insulating layer of air is created between the film and the outer glass. This is the first moment. The second one is this. Since the film is usually nailed to the walls, it turns out that cold air does not penetrate to the frame.

Energy saving film

The same effect - an additional insulating layer - works in the case of the recently advertised insulation of window panes with a film. As you know, any room loses heat through the walls, windows, roof, floor. Windows account for up to 40% of heat loss. Previously, this problem was solved by installing additional winter frames. Heat-saving film, in fact, is a modern substitute for such a frame. A thin double-sided tape is attached to the window frame, and a film is glued onto the tape. How exactly is not the point. It must be warmed up with a hair dryer (normal, not construction), after which it will even out and be hardly noticeable.

This simple method allows you to raise the temperature in the room by several degrees. The same film will prevent overheating in the summer - to prevent the sun's rays through the glass. The only disadvantage of this method is the inhumane price. Square meter film costs from 350 rubles, plus you will need double-sided tape.

Is this energy-efficient film different from the usual one? It is difficult to say until comparative tests have been carried out. Will something change if you tighten the window with ordinary plastic wrap? Unlikely. The advantage of this film is that it is crystal clear and after heating it is invisible on the window. So it's a relatively inexpensive and easy way to raise the temperature in a room without ruining the view.

The cheaper way

Almost the same effect can be achieved by sticking a packing film with air bubbles on the inside of the glass. Of course, using this film, we lose transparency, but the price is not so high. The film is generally very easy to install. A piece of film cut to size is moistened with water (from a spray bottle). Water is applied to smooth side. We spray it on the glass. We lay the film, align, press, straighten it with our hands. Everything, the film is glued.

You can do it easier - stick a pimply packaging film on the glass from the inside

It can keep for months. It can be removed without problems - they pulled the edge, and all of it moved away. The same piece can be used for several years, as nothing happens to it. This is a simple way that makes the insulation of wooden windows more effective.

Windows are "heat holes" - one of the main sources of heat loss in the house, especially when it comes to old wooden windows. The easiest way to insulate your home is to correctly install a new double-glazed window, the heat resistance of which corresponds to your region. If this is not possible, you need to know how to insulate wooden windows with your own hands.

Where are the problems and how to solve them

Heat does not look for complex ways, but comes out in the simplest way - through thin structures, which are glass and front doors. Even simpler, thermal energy “leaves” the premises in case of leaks (in a simple way - cracks) of the above structures. Therefore, do-it-yourself window insulation essentially boils down to:

Ensure tightness (seal cracks and thereby get rid of drafts);
Increase the thermal resistance of windows.

Making windows airtight

Cracks can be everywhere. You need to pay attention to:

Worn seal;
Joints between the frame and the slope (both inside and outside);
Joints between the frame and sashes;
Joints between glass and glazing beads;
The area under the window sill.

When plastic windows special attention should be paid to the first and last two points. You should not rely only on external examination: from improvised means, you need to use a lit match or present a wet palm.

So, the meaning of the work is simple: you need to get rid of the cracks, which our grandparents still do every winter. Windows are washed before each procedure, the surface is degreased (you can use honey alcohol). Further work is carried out with gloves, you need to have a damp cloth and spatula on hand.

sealant

You need to buy a porous (PPE), rubber or porous rubber tape seal. The last two are the most durable. Peeled off the old one, cleaned the surface, pasted a new one. If tape seals cannot be placed on the frame, you can use q-lon seals, which are wooden profiles with polyurethane edges. Their installation is carried out inside the frame: a q-lon seal of the desired size is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees and nailed with ordinary 2d (2.5 cm) nails in a wide strip onto the frame, close to the sash.

Joints between frame and slope

If gaps are found here, they must be filled with mounting foam. If the gap is more than 2 cm in width, along with the foam, you need to use foam, cotton wool, foam rubber and other materials cut out slightly smaller than the size of the gap itself and tightly inserted immediately after foaming and foamed over, or first inserted and then foamed. It is important to note here that mounting foam is afraid of moisture, UV radiation and much more, so it must be protected, both inside and, especially, outside. To do this, use special waterproofing profiles or plaster / putty and paint over the foam. If the gap is less than 0.5 cm, which does not allow the nozzle of the foam gun to be inserted, the gap is filled with foam rubber, and a sealant is applied on top, which is then leveled with a spatula flush with the slope.

Joints between frame and sashes

Over time, a wooden frame, especially made of solid bars, swells, cracks, which greatly affects the tightness. If the frame and sashes look very worn out, especially from the side of the street, then it is better to restore them: remove the sashes, dismantle the glazing beads, remove the glass, remove the putty, clean the surface of old layers of paint, wash and degrease the windows, apply sealant to the rebate, insert windows, fix new glazing beads, paint the sash and frame. As a temporary (read: permanent) measure, seal windows tightly with masking tape or cloth / paper smeared with soap or diluted starch. That is, exactly as our grandfathers and grandmothers did and still do.

Joints between glass and glazing beads

If they are found, you need to remove the glass, clean and degrease the fold, apply a transparent silicone sealant, insert the glass back and fix them with new glazing beads. If the glazing beads are in good condition and you do not want to take out the glass, you can apply sealant around the perimeter of the glass directly to the glazing beads.

The area under the window sill

The gaps here are filled with mounting foam, which is then cut flush and painted over. At the same time, they try to remove the former foam, in the case of wooden windows, to the maximum. In large gaps, it is better to first insert a heater (polystyrene, cotton wool, etc.), and then blow out the remaining gaps with foam. It is important to consider here that the foam, when expanded, can raise the window sill, so it must be loaded by placing, for example, a bucket of water. After drying, the foam is cut flush with the wall and puttied.

Increasing the thermal resistance of windows

For these purposes, you can use:

Heat-shrinkable heat-insulating films;
Energy saving films.

Shrink thermal insulation films are ordinary-looking films, transparent, not as dense as energy-saving ones. They do not retain thermal radiation, do not protect against fading and UV rays, but due to fixation on the frame and thus the formation of an air gap between the glass and the film, they allow, as it were, to make an additional chamber, which increases the thermal resistance of the window. As you know, the best heat insulator is air, of course, after special gases and vacuum.

Energy-saving films reflect thermal radiation, which avoids significant heat loss in winter time and the penetration of heat into the room - in the summer. In addition, they filter the sun's rays, protecting residents, furniture and plants from UV radiation and the latter from fading. Looks dense, with a slight tinting effect. They are usually glued to glass.

How will they help if expressed in numbers? Thermal resistance of glass in old wooden frames is no more than 0.3 m2K/W, thermal resistance energy saving film- 0.17, if you add these heat resistance coefficients, you get 0.47 m2K / W, which will be similar to the heat resistance of a double-glazed window. Theoretically, the heat resistance indicators will be similar when using a heat-shrinkable heat-insulating film, but already without the “bonuses” that an energy-saving film gives. Many prefer energy-saving films and do not regret their choice.

Installation of heat-shrinkable heat-insulating film

Glass and frame are cleaned and degreased;
An adsorbent is glued under the windows on the lower bead;
Double-sided adhesive tape is glued along the perimeter of the window glazing beads;
A heat-insulating film cut to size (+ margin) is fixed on the adhesive tape;
The film is smoothed, “wrinkles” are removed with a hair dryer, excess is cut off.

The first point shouldn't be a problem. You can degrease glass, wood, plastic with alcohol bought at a pharmacy (sold under the guise of antiseptic solutions).

The adsorbent is a very important component. Condensation will form on the glass in severe frosts. They say that the windows “sweat”, and when drops flow down the glass, they “cry”. Even the double-glazed window “cries”, but this problem is quite easy to deal with: I took a rag and wiped the window. However, you can’t wipe the window any more when the film is pasted on it. Therefore, adsorbents are used for moisture absorption - silica gels, aluminum gels, etc. By the way, manufacturers also use adsorbents in double-glazed windows, so they do not sweat from the inside. In addition, the higher the thermal resistance of the window, the lower the likelihood of condensation.

Double-sided adhesive tape is glued onto the glazing beads, at least 1 cm wide, with a smaller width, two strips of adhesive tape are glued. Next, prepare the film: cut it to the size of the glass, with a margin for adhesive tape and another + 2–3 additional centimeters for the convenience of the sticker. If the film is folded in half, you need to expand it and subsequently glue it with the outside into the room, the inside - respectively, to the window. Keep in mind that the film must also remain clean, otherwise stains and hairs will be an eyesore for years. So, the film was unfolded, cut to the right sizes, then you need to stick it on double-sided tape, removing the protective strips from the last one. You can remove the protective strips from all strips of tape at once, or you can do it gradually. However, this is not critical, since then all the “wrinkles” can be smoothed out with a hairdryer, and uneven edges can be cut with a knife.

The film is carefully smoothed around the edges with a cloth. The film is stretched and all “wrinkles” are removed with a conventional hair dryer, directing warm air from the center of the film to the sides. At the same time, the hair dryer is kept as close to the film as possible (it is heat-shrinkable, everything will be fine with it).

Installation of energy-saving film

Washing and degreasing windows;
Cutting the film, wetting the window with a weak soapy solution, removing the protective layer from the energy-saving film and wetting the adhesive side of the film with the same solution;
Sticker and leveling, cutting off excess film.

Let's go straight to the second point. Weak soap solution: 1 tbsp. l. liquid soap or baby shampoo per 1 liter of water. The solution must be sprayed onto windows and film using a spray gun. The more solution, the easier it will be to stick and align the film. The protective film layer is a thin polymer layer that protects the adhesive side of the film.

Installation of energy-saving film is easier and more reliable for two people. Prepare a rubber forcing, silicone grout, or a regular spatula, the sharp end of which will be wrapped in a cloth. Then cut the film to fit the glass, leaving at least 1 cm to spare. So, one holds the film, the other removes the protective layer and wets the adhesive side.

The installation of the film, as a rule, begins from the upper left corner: we glued the upper left corner, hold the glued end and adjust the film parallel to the upper window glazing bead, glued the other corner, and then in the middle from top to bottom we go through forcing, then from the middle to the sides and corners, expelling bubbles. The last step is trimming the excess film. The film is slightly peeled off and with a sharp clerical or construction knife, the excess is cut flush with the glazing bead. You can do it in any other way convenient for you. It is only important not to leave scratches on the glass and not to cut the rubber seals under the glazing bead.

The result of all work: no drafts, no condensation, no frost, no heat in the room.

How to insulate old wooden windows for the winter with your own hands?

It is the window in the house that is considered the most important source of safety or waste of heat, especially in the cold season. Today, people are trying to insulate themselves in all sorts of ways, including replacing old Soviet windows with more modern and insulated metal-plastic ones. But even the owners of plastic windows do not always achieve the desired result, what can we say about those who still do not want to give up wooden ones. And how to insulate wooden windows so that cold and frost do not take apartment owners by surprise.

How can you insulate wooden windows at home at minimal cost?

If you have wooden windows constantly blowing in cold weather, and heat escapes through them, it does not mean that you need to urgently abandon them, save money and replace them with metal-plastic materials. If you look, then absolutely everyone can insulate their windows and at the same time not spend too much money. To achieve the goal, it is enough to have some materials that can be purchased at any hardware store:

Sanitary transparent sealant.
Mortise tubular insulation. If this is difficult to find, then you can use a rubber pipe, the diameter of which should vary between 6-10 mm. This is window insulation using Swedish technology.
Tape insulation, which is a yellow tape that is glued on both sides. It can be found at any market or hardware store.
Flat foam rubber, the width of which reaches at least 4 cm.
Polyethylene foam tape (7-10 cm wide). You can use the remnants of the material that is used during the installation of the laminate. If this is not at hand, then ordinary masking tape will work.
Screwdriver.
A stapler designed for furniture work.
Putty knife.
Scissors.

Step-by-step process of warming wooden windows

Thermal insulation of wooden windows consists of several stages:

In order to start work, you need to open absolutely all the sashes of wooden windows and open the tightening bolts.
Thoroughly rinse and dry all glass and existing frames.
Clean the frame using a spatula. Maximum attention should be paid to the joints where they are interconnected.
Next, you can proceed to the processing of the inner frames of the windows with insulation tape (between the panes). After that, you should connect the window, holding it and tightening the bolts intensively. After the manipulations, you need to check how well the window has been insulated, whether there is enough material, whether the frames lie tightly to each other. If at least one point is poorly executed, then the bolts must be untwisted again and a warming tape added, since there should in no case be any gaps and gaps.
If the window sash will remain stationary, then tape insulation will be ideal for sealing, however, if not, then it is better to use tubular insulation. To install it, it is enough to attach it to the frame, firmly press the sashes, and then turn its lock. To complete the work, you should check whether all the latches are included in the window mounting strips.
For the window, it is more expedient to repeat the manipulations internal insulation, and where it connects to the frame, it is better to use tubular material. Since in this place the window is constantly in motion (closing and opening), the tubular insulation will create a high-quality seal. The installation goes like this: if a mortise insulation is used, then it is better to fix it in the groove. If it is impossible to cut a groove, then it is worth separating the tube from the tubular material and installing it on the window frame and window leaf using a stapler.
After all the work done, you need to check the functionality of windows and vents. If all the manipulations went well, then the window will not let in heat and let in cold air during cold weather, and they will also sweat much less.

The above method describes one of the most reliable ways of warming. Now, when the question arises of how to insulate wooden windows for the winter, the owner will be informed.

Video on how to insulate wooden windows

Insulation of old wooden windows

Careful care of wooden windows can lead to the fact that they will serve faithfully for many years. However, over a long period, the wood tends to dry out, and at this time gaps and miniature cracks form, and the gaps between glass and glazing beads increase. All these little things begin to manifest themselves in all their glory with the advent of autumn and the first cold weather, when the breeze crawls through the cracks of the windows. If the insulation is good, then few people are worried about this factor, however, what should the owners of old wooden windows do. Is it possible to carry out the insulation of wooden windows with your own hands in order to keep the precious heat inside the room. Even our grandfathers knew how to insulate windows for the winter, their advice is relevant in our time.

Newspaper strips

One of the most ancient and at the same time effective ways, which answers the question of how to insulate old wooden windows for the winter, is the use of newspapers and strips of paper. They were used by our ancestors. The cracks in the windows were clogged with old unnecessary newspapers, which were soaked in water before the procedure and twisted into a kind of tube. And on top, at the joints of the glass with the frame and the sash, strips of paper were glued, which were smeared in a solution of laundry soap.

Although this method makes it possible to insulate the window for a while, it carries more minuses than pluses. The main disadvantage is that during the onset of spring it is difficult to separate the material from the windows without damaging the paint or simply tear off the remnants of paper from the frames. In order not to damage the coating, it is necessary to moisten it with water before dismantling the paper insulation.

Cotton wool and fabric

Another "old-fashioned method" is the use of cotton wool and fabric, which came to replace newspaper tubes. All existing gaps in the frames are completely clogged with technical wool, which are then sealed with fabric strips pre-soaked in soapy water. Wool itself is an excellent heat insulator, besides, it easily lags behind the frames during the "spring cleaning", without damaging the window coverings and without leaving unpleasant streaks and marks.

Until today, this method is used in many families because of its high efficiency, and the materials needed for the process can be bought at any hardware store at an affordable price.

Video on how to insulate old wooden windows for the winter

Heat-saving film

Another way to describe how to insulate wooden windows is to use heat-saving film. More recently, they began to mount a film on the windows, which is installed on the window glass using a self-adhesive base. This film several times reduces the heat consumption during the period of cold weather, and in the summer it retains the desired coolness well. It should be noted that this method is used on all types of windows, including metal-plastic and wooden ones. The film allows the required amount of light to pass through itself into the room and at the same time prevents heat from escaping from the room, reflecting it back through the surface of the film. Thus, the owners save 60% of the heat that enters and exits through the glass.

Such budget methods will help you decide how to insulate old windows without spending a lot of money.

Is it advisable to repair and insulate old wooden windows?

Today, a lot of companies have appeared that specialize in the insulation and restoration of old windows. They give a guarantee that the updated windows will keep warm and function no worse than metal-plastic ones, but is this true? Repair, one way or another, is a good idea, and warming the room is even better. Through dilapidated wooden frames, people lose 60% of home heat and, of course, they try by all means to prevent this. One of the most effective ways is to repair and insulate old wooden windows. Window repair includes fitting frames and sashes, removing the old paintwork, wood impregnation, paint coating (after all, you need to renew the coating every three years, however, few people do this).

In addition to the above, seals are mounted on the sashes, which in some way get rid of the gaps formed and, of course, from harmful drafts. However, not for a long time, because after a while the tree begins to dry out again without specialized treatment with impregnation and paint.

If a wooden window is properly looked after and the measures taken during this process are not forgotten, then the wooden window will successfully stand for many more years, and will not let in so much heat.

Do you also insulate old wooden windows every winter? What is the most reliable way for you? Share your experience in the comments.

www.rutvet.ru

How to insulate a wooden window for the winter with your own hands - what is the best way to cover it?

If wood frames are well cared for, they can last for decades. It is much easier to seal small cracks with sealant than a year later, when the deformation and split will go deeper to change the crumpled frame. Therefore, before the onset of the cold season, you need to carefully inspect the window frames and put them in order.

Before you start warming the frame with any of the possible materials, you must first prepare it:

Ventilate and dry the room well.
Wash, dry and degrease the glass.
If such a need arises, replace the glazing beads.
Prepare all the materials in the right amount for insulation.

Old methods of window insulation are practically not inferior to modern ones, although the latter have a more aesthetic appearance.

It is necessary to insulate wooden frames in a number of cases:

If the frames were made from raw wood.
The frame was created from solid wooden blocks that react to humidity and temperature changes.
Old dilapidated wooden frames, the glass on which rattles when opening and closing.
When the door and windows are tightly closed, a draft is felt in the room.
If the batteries are hot around the clock, but the room is still cool.

By insulating wooden frames, you can reduce heat loss by as much as 47%.

It is best to insulate wooden frames immediately before starting heating season. As soon as the outdoor temperature starts to drop to +70C and below, and dampness and drafts begin to be felt in the room, this is a signal that it is time to restore and insulate the frames.

You should not expect frosts, as the glass may become covered with frost, and the wood will freeze and decrease slightly in volume.

If a sealant is applied to such a deformed supercooled surface, then with the onset of heat, when the wooden frame wants to expand again, it will cause subsequent deformations, cracks and destruction of the frame.

Do-it-yourself work

The oldest and most proven methods of insulating windows using old newspapers and strips have long proven their worth.

Plug all the cracks with a rag or crumpled newspaper, and cover with paper tape or fabric strips on top. You can glue the latter with the help of the remnants of wallpaper glue, laundry soap or a mixture of flour and water.

If you want to quickly deal with drafts, then use paper tape - this is perhaps the easiest way to insulate wooden windows.

Absolutely all types of window insulation can be done by someone who has locksmith skills. If the owner knows how to handle a hammer and nails, then he will be able to insulate the old wooden frame.

Even schoolchildren are able to insulate the opening with the help of a newspaper and paper strips. The same applies to insulation with cotton wool and fabric strips, as well as foam rubber and adhesive tape.

But when working with sealant, paraffin, pipe profiles, some preparation is already needed. These methods of warming a wooden window are best left to a specialist.

How to find the location of an air leak?

It is very important to locate the cracks and seal them with insulating material.

No matter how old a window is, there are certain ways in which heat can be lost.

To find the place of air leakage, carefully inspect places such as:

slopes;
beams above the windows;
window sills;
double-glazed window;

Slopes during insulation always pay a lot of attention. If the frame was originally installed correctly, then over time, only small gaps may appear between the wall and the frame. But almost no one looks under the window sill, although heat loss due to cracks under it can be enormous.

Everyone chooses the method of warming old wooden windows that is most affordable and to their liking. Someone likes to glue windows the old fashioned way, while others prefer more modern approach.

Heaters

Judging by the physical and technical characteristics, PVC is considered the best insulation.

You can choose insulation for your wooden windows from the following list:

newspapers and paper strips;
cotton wool and fabric strips;
foam rubber and adhesive tape;
paraffin;
sealant;
heat-saving film;

Materials for warming a wooden window can be:

pipe profiles;
gaskets;

The latter are subdivided depending on the material of insulation into:

rubber;
polyvinyl chloride, or PVC;
polyurethane;
polyethylene foam;
foam;

If it was decided to insulate the frame with a profile, then it can be selected depending on the size of the gap:

Type E, or tubular profile, designed to seal small, narrow gaps.
Type P, for medium gaps.
Type D, or known to all insulating material which is needed to eliminate wide gaps.

The choice of material for insulating a wooden window directly depends on the nature of the problem that you want to fix:

If in window frames there are cracks and cracks, then they can be repaired with liquid nails or liquid wood. The latter is much cheaper, but will last only one season if used on the outer window frame and up to five years when applied to the inner frame.
As practice shows, foam rubber in itself is not an effective sealant, so it must be used together with adhesive tape.
The best method for filling large gaps in the window sill and frame is polyurethane foam.

They differ from rubber in better frost resistance. Polyvinyl chloride is not subject to deformation and does not crumble at sub-zero temperatures.

In the case when you need durability from the material, it is better to stop at rubber seals, and if you also want your window to be environmentally friendly, then rubber is what will suit you.

Advice! If you are going to insulate with a rubber pipe profile, then choose the softest one.

Price

The cheapest thing to do is to insulate wooden frames yourself. Thus, you will only spend money on materials. If there is no time or the necessary skill, then you can use the services of specialists.

Insulation cost:

Single-leaf window from 2800 rubles.
Bivalve - from 4200 rubles.
Three-leaved - from 5000 rubles.

Prices for repairman services may vary slightly depending on the city where you live and the condition of the wooden window.

How to use correctly?

When the cracks are treated with a sealant, its consumption is approximately one drop per centimeter. An hour later, the operation is repeated.

Even the sealant needs to know how to choose. Take, for example, foam rubber, during the purchase of which you need to check its ability to retain air.

To do this, bring a piece of foam rubber to your lips and blow on it. If you feel resistance to air flow, then this material is ideal for insulation.

While the sealant has not hardened, its excess can be easily removed with a damp cloth, but if you missed this moment, then use a safety razor to remove it.

If you want to restore an old wooden frame and reduce heat loss, then follow these recommendations:

Using a small knife, remove the glazing beads.
Wear work gloves and carefully remove the glass.
Clean the grooves where the glass was inserted.
Wait until the wood is airy and dry.
Fill the groove with sealant and install the glass.
Drive in new glazing beads very carefully.

In such a simple way, you can restore the frame well and reduce heat loss.

Heat from the room can escape not only through the cracks of windows, but also through front door. Therefore, make sure that it does not let air through.
Do not forget that with the help of thick curtains you can also reduce heat loss. They will protect your room from drafts.
In addition to window frames, you should also inspect the slopes and the window sill area, where there are also often gaps.
If you are trying to insulate the windows in a rustic house, then think about the possibility of introducing such a useful decor item as shutters. They will save the room not only from drafts, but also from thieves.

househill.com

How to insulate old wooden windows for the winter

It is good if the houses have modern warm euro-windows, and the temperature outside the window does not drop low even in the cold season. But if everything is wrong, this is absolutely no reason to freeze. We will understand in detail how to insulate old wooden windows.

Why insulate?

Windows, as a rule, become the main source of heat loss for the room. Even if at first glance there are no noticeable holes in double-glazed windows, in fact there are many small slits through which precious heat escapes. In addition, the air is cooled through the thinnest and most vulnerable place of windows - glass. That is why it is so important to insulate a window for the winter.

How to understand what needs to be insulated?

Sometimes problems with windows can be noticed, just by carefully examining them, and then, for example, your eyes will fall on small holes, you will be able to feel that something noticeably pulls a chill from somewhere. But not always visual inspection clarifies the whole picture.

In this case, you can use a convenient modern device - a thermal imager. The mechanism of its action is based on the transfer of infrared radiation, characteristic of any object, into a visible format. The areas of the building on the screen of the device, depending on their temperature, are painted in colors from dark blue to orange-red. Of course, a thermal imager can detect not only problematic windows, but also other places of heat loss in the building, as well as the presence of faulty heating appliances- in general, any temperature anomalies.

Warming methods

Winterizing windows for the winter should move in two directions:

elimination of all cracks in the frames and between them;
reduction in the thermal conductivity of window glass.

At the same time, it should be understood that even the highest quality wood is greatly destroyed over time, and this is not always noticeable at first glance. Therefore, before insulating old windows, they should not only be carefully examined, but also probed, since a rotten area, a nest of small insects, and some other damage may well be hidden under a well-preserved thin top layer.

Before you insulate windows for the winter with your own hands, pay attention to the temperatures at which external insulation work is carried out. It is important that at this time it was at least +5 ° C outside the window. If the temperature is noticeably lower, this will lead to the fact that adhesive mixtures, foam and other materials and components that are used in repair work, most likely, will lose their properties or simply freeze if it gets even colder. Everything, of course, depends on the individual characteristics of the material used, so be sure to read the instructions for use before working in the cold.

In general, if a decision is made to carry out insulation work, then it is best to combine them with other window repair work - for example, plastering cracks, eliminating rotten areas, replacing old fasteners, and so on. If you do only one thing, then the result will be noticeably worse. So before you insulate wooden windows for the winter, make a work plan.

And now more about all the weak points of wooden windows and how to insulate and / or repair them.

Seal problems

Sealant - any polymeric rubber-like material mounted around the perimeter of the frame in those places where the sash adjoins it. No matter how precisely the details of the sashes and the frame are made, there will still be small cracks between them, and the presence of a sealant helps protect against heat loss through them.

The type of sealing material, in principle, does not really matter, the main thing is its resistance to temperature extremes and good elasticity. Experienced craftsmen recommend choosing a porous (PPE), rubber or porous rubber tape seal.

If the frame has a special groove for the sealing tape, it is tightly pushed in there, if not, it is nailed with small carnations, placing them quite often.

Space between frame and slope

Although the frame itself can stay even and not show signs of imminent deformation, even fairly large holes can sometimes form between it and the slope (the side surface of the window opening). Close them up most often with a material that is well known even to a person far from construction - polyurethane foam.

If the holes found are larger than 3-4 centimeters, then they should be filled with foam in several steps, or first place a piece of wood, a piece of foam, a brick fragment or other material covering most of the hole. When the foam has completely hardened, its excess is carefully cut off with a sharp knife. If the hole is through, outside the foam should be protected from moisture and exposure to sunlight (from them it melts or crumbles) with an insulating material - a waterproofing profile or plastering and subsequent painting.

The area under the window sill

In general, there is the same principle of operation as in the case of a frame and a slope: the holes are foamed, if necessary, pre-filled with something, preferably with a heater. But there is important point- if the window sill is light and not very tightly fixed in the wall, then under the influence of expanding foam it can rise. To prevent this from happening, while the foam hardens, it is worth putting something heavy enough there, trying not to break the glass.

Shrinkage or cracking of windows

Wood is a hygroscopic material (absorbing moisture), therefore, with serious fluctuations in temperature and humidity, drying out or, conversely, swelling, it will invariably change its size slightly, and sometimes its shape (for example, bend and warp). Accordingly, in both cases, the sashes will no longer fit so tightly to the frames, gaps will appear, and with them heat loss. Therefore, before insulating old wooden windows for the winter, you need to solve this problem.

It is difficult, if not impossible, to cope with this task with a guarantee, because it will not be possible to get rid of changes in the temperature and humidity regime. It remains only to try to protect the tree from dampness. To do this, it is painted or varnished. And, if the existing coating has noticeably deteriorated and a decision has been made to renew it, the layer of old paint / varnish should be cleaned off. Otherwise, the new coating will lie unevenly, which will be, firstly, unaesthetic, and secondly, much less reliable in terms of protection against moisture. Already existing cracks, if they are large enough in size and do not hide themselves under a layer of paint, are usually sealed with special plaster for wood.

Joints between glass and glazing bead

A glazing bead (a thin wooden element along the edge of the glass that holds it in the frame), despite its small size, can also cause problems. If it has deteriorated - rotted, moldy, damaged by insects, etc. - it is easier and better to replace it, at the same time cleaning and degreasing the space under it. If not, it is enough to apply a layer of sealant along its edge. From a purely aesthetic point of view, it is worth choosing a transparent sealing composition, and for practical reasons - silicone as more resistant to fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Solving problems with heat loss through glass

It is possible to reduce the thermal conductivity of windows without reducing the amount of light they transmit by using special energy-saving or shrink films that increase heat loss resistance by about 1.5 times - a good and easy way to both insulate wooden windows for the winter and protect yourself from glass fragments in case of glass breaking, which is especially important for residents of the first floors.

The mechanism of operation of the first type of film is the reflection of thermal radiation, due to which in winter the heat from the house does not go outside, and in summer the heat from the street cannot penetrate inside. Such films are pasted directly on glass.

The glass surface is wiped from dust and dirt, degreased.
Remove the protective layer from the film, moisten it and the window with a mild soapy solution (this is about a spoon detergent per liter of water).
The film is glued, smoothed, squeezed out the air bubbles formed under it.
The excess is trimmed around the edges with a clerical knife.

The shrink film is glued to the frame, and an air gap is formed between it and the glass, which is also very effective as a heat insulator.

How to work with film?

The window is cleaned of dirt and dust, be sure to degrease with soapy water or alcohol-containing compounds.
An adsorbent (silica gel or analogues) must be glued under the lower bead of the window, which will absorb the accumulated condensate, because there will be no way to wipe it.
A strong double-sided adhesive tape is glued around the perimeter of the frame.
The film is glued and straightened, the excess is cut off.

If the windows are painted, then before sticking the film (and indeed before insulating the windows for the winter with your own hands), you should check how firmly the paint holds, otherwise the adhesive tape along with the heat-insulating coating may fall off, nullifying all efforts for insulation.

"Canning" windows

This item refers to the temporary sealing of the perimeter of the window for the winter, when they do not plan to open it. This does not exclude the previously described manipulations to eliminate all cracks and holes, but complements them.

During "preservation" all the gaps between the frames and sashes are clogged with some kind of dense material and glued with adhesive tape or other adhesive tape. The simplest, proven by many years of use and at the same time cheap ways are to put cotton wool, twisted newspaper sheets, small rags, etc. into the slots.

But modern technologies in the field of construction and finishing materials allow you to choose from more convenient and effective materials. And we are talking not only about the well-known foam rubber, but also various polymer insulation in the form of long flexible tapes - a great option than to insulate wooden windows additionally. They are available in different sizes, so choosing the right one is not difficult. The principle of working with such a tape was described above - it is pressed into the slots with the help of a narrow, but not sharp tool. With careful use and the choice of high-quality material, such a tape can be used repeatedly.

Another method, for all its effectiveness and cheapness, is very radical and is suitable only if the windows are not planned to be opened before they are replaced with new ones. This method is also the previously mentioned polyurethane foam. It closes all the cracks tightly and reliably, but then it will be very difficult to open the windows, and even more so to clean them from the remnants of the foam.

Summing up

Window insulation can increase the regular temperature in the room by at least 3-4°C. In addition to this, drafts will disappear, dampness in the room and the amount of condensation will decrease. All this will significantly reduce heating costs, as a result, any effort, time and money spent on insulating your old wooden windows will pay off with interest. Therefore, you should not endure the cold, especially since the building materials market offers a large selection of diverse and often very easy-to-use materials for insulation - and there are really a lot of answers to the question of how to insulate wooden windows for the winter.

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof

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When it gets colder and the first frosts appear, the owners of wooden windows have a problem with their insulation. You can deal with such a disadvantage on your own. This is not a complicated process, which allows you to save about half of the heat spent. In today's review, we will look at how to insulate wooden windows for the winter, as well as what materials are best to use.

Wooden windows require a special approach

Timber windows are natural material, which will help create the optimal microclimate in the room. Natural wood has many advantages, but it also has certain disadvantages. Over time, these frames can dry out. This creates cracks and crevices.

You can tell if the frames are not airtight by looking at the patterns on the glass. In order not to bring to this, you need to start warming at a temperature of +5 degrees. To identify cracks, you need to use a lit candle.

The heat-saving properties of windows are affected by a large number of factors. For example, the features of wood processing, the tightness of the glass and the formation of cracks.

For your information! Before insulating window openings, you should thoroughly wash the windows. The material will adhere well to a degreased surface.

How to insulate wooden windows for the winter: ways

To figure out how to insulate windows for the winter with your own hands, you need to understand how thermal energy leaves the building. Leakage occurs through gaps in window sills, glass, through slopes and frames. Over time, the building shrinks. In this case, gaps can form between the slopes and the walls. Similar shortcomings arise with errors during installation.

In some cases, gaps can be filled with construction foam. To insulate the slopes, you will need a layer of several layers. In this case, you can apply plaster or make slopes from PVC material. Additional voids obtained are processed, for example, with foam.

Note! The presence of gaps can be checked by bringing a wet hand close to the frame. At the same time, a chilly breeze will be felt.

How to insulate wooden windows for the winter

Before you choose: how to insulate windows for the winter with your own hands - determine how tightly the glass is attached to the frame. If the surface rattles, then the problem is tightness. In this case, it is necessary to remove the glass and distribute a layer of sealant along the contour. After attaching the glazing beads, visible gaps are also treated with sealant. All work is best done with special gloves. After you check the tightness, you can choose a warming material. Let's take a look at each option and learn about their benefits.

Related article:

Do-it-yourself window insulation with film

The technology of warming old wooden windows using film material is often used in the country. When choosing a material, do not forget about such values as frost resistance and transparency. In regions with severe frosts, you can use a special film with thermal insulation characteristics, which is used for greenhouses and can withstand even 40 degree frosts. Fasten the film from the outside with a stapler. Pieces of film are placed under the staples. It is important to follow the correct tension so that gusts of wind do not tear it. If this happens, then the film can be sealed with adhesive tape.

The heat-insulating film deserves special attention. It is a composite material, one side of which is metallized. The thinnest layer of metal does not interfere with the passage of light, but it can greatly reduce the heat loss of glass.

Most often, such material is stretched from the outside of the house. A piece is cut according to the dimensions of the glass with minor allowances. Using a spray gun, a soap solution is applied to the surface of the glass, and then the film is glued.

Helpful information! Before gluing this material, it is necessary to clean and wash the glass well.

Paper application

The most used method for insulating wooden windows for the winter is to use paper. First, the surface must be thoroughly washed. Then cotton wool, synthetic winterizer or pieces of foam rubber are stuffed into all joints. All gaps are pasted over with strips of paper. In this case, wallpaper glue or PVA is used, which is diluted with water.

The disadvantage of this technique is that when it gets warmer, the paper will need to be removed and washed. Alternatively, instead of paper, you can use strips of fabric. It adheres well to soapy water.

How to insulate with sealant

Sealant can be used as a heater for wooden windows. This material is suitable if the gaps are small. This method is immediately done for several years, because the sealant is very difficult to remove. To prevent the frames from getting dirty, they must be glued with masking tape, and the sealant is squeezed into the prepared holes using a special tool. It is important to immediately level the composition, as it hardens very quickly. To remove excess, you can use a rag soaked in vinegar solution.

This material is of different types. For insulation, polyurethane or teokol is suitable. The first option is easier to apply and can be painted. The selected sealant must have moisture resistant and antifungal properties. This will be an excellent protection against mold. good option becomes mounting foam.

How to perform foam insulation?

This type of insulation for window frames as foam rubber has been used for many years. This is an elastic material that allows you to fill any recesses. First of all, the frames are glued on the outside with paper, then foam rubber is used, and then paper again.

You can immediately buy foam rubber, which is cut into different sizes. It is important to choose a thickness that fits a particular window. You can also purchase insulation with an adhesive side. It must be sealed with special tape.

Use of paraffin

Proven technologies include paraffin. It should be used for frames with small gaps. The material is melted in a water bath, and then the solution is distributed through the slits with a syringe. If the recess is large, then you can push a piece of rope there, and fill it with paraffin from above.

How to insulate with special seals

An excellent alternative to foam rubber is a rubber seal or PVC material. Known tubular profile. This material has a variety of markings, using which you can choose suitable option. PVC - materials have excellent thermal insulation characteristics. Rubber materials are more durable. When choosing such a material, it is worth stopping at softer products.

Despite the popularity of energy-saving structures made of metal-plastic profiles, there are still many adherents of wooden windows. Make a choice in favor wooden structures causes a number of reasons: a healthy microclimate of the room, environmentally friendly material, high decorative qualities of the product.

A positive property - the ability of natural material to "breathe", has another side - increased heat loss inside the room. The owners of wooden windows need to take care of reliable insulation for the cold season in a timely manner.

Places on windows with poor tightness can be detected with a burning candle. On a windy day, we will carry it along the window frame, where the flame will fluctuate, there is a place for heat leakage. Such areas must be insulated from the inside and outside of the room.

To perform the work, you can invite specialists, but it will not be difficult to do it yourself with the help of improvised and special materials.

(1 way) Insulation of wooden windows with paper and fabric strips

The simplest, rather primitive, but very economical way is to insulate wooden windows with paper and paper or fabric strips.
Completing of the work:

we tear paper, newspapers, wallpaper into pieces, twist it into strips;
soak in water and fill the gaps between the window frame and sashes with a knife or ruler;
at the joints, carefully glue strips of paper or fabric of small width (4-5 cm), coat them with a solution of laundry soap or make a special glue (paste) from flour or starch.

Paste recipes:

Flour paste: take flour and water in equal proportions (1: 1), mix well until the lumps disappear and bring to a boil, stirring constantly.
Starch-based paste: 2 tbsp. dissolve the starch in water and combine it with a glass of boiling water in a thin stream, keep it on fire for a short time.

It is not easy to clean the window from this insulation, sometimes paint is removed along with the paper, and its pieces and prints of printing ink remain on the surface of the window frame.

Simple and forgotten heaters also include window putty, and even children's plasticine.

(2 way) We insulate the window with cotton wool, gluing the joints with adhesive tape or self-adhesive paper

The same "grandmother's" method, but more modified. Paper is replaced by cotton wool, instead of paper and fabric tapes - adhesive tape and self-adhesive paper, and the execution process itself is identical. In the spring, when it becomes necessary to remove the insulation, the paint will remain on the adhesive tape, but self-adhesive paper has the advantage of being removed without problems.

(3 way) Self-adhesive foam tape - a convenient and reliable insulation of a wooden window

You can buy it in any store, it is easy to work with, although the whole process takes a lot of time.

The procedure for laying an elastic, elastic material - foam tape, for insulation and insulation:

we measure along the perimeter the joints between the window sashes and the window frame;
we take into account the width of the gaps, and buy a foam tape a little thicker than necessary when measuring;
we clean the attachment points from dust and dirt and degrease the surface with alcohol or acetone;
remove the protective base and stick the insulation on the pre-planned area.

For better tightness, it is necessary to pass self-adhesive paper on top, which is better to remove in the spring, and the foam rubber can be left and used for several seasons.

(4 way) Tubular seal for a wooden window

The tubular seal does not lose its qualities for a long time, is durable, does not limit the ability to open and close the window.

Rubber seals are easy to use, especially if the gap has a different width along the entire length. When buying, pay attention that the rubber is soft, elastic.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) gaskets are suitable for even openings, are considered the most reliable, often stacked in two layers;
Rectangular polyurethane seals are suitable for openings of equal width, it is possible to glue the places of insulation in two layers.
Seals come with a self-adhesive base - it is convenient and easy to attach, so that there are no problems with use, you need to pay attention to the expiration date.
Seals are also available without self-adhesive tape, they are attached to the base using silicone sealant.

(5 way) Insulation of wooden windows with mounting foam

Modern insulation that hermetically closes all cracks, cracks, both on the outside and on the inside of the window - polyurethane foam.

Removes gaps and crevices:

between the frame and the slope (please note Special attention from the outside);
under the windowsill - the place where the warm air leaks the most;
between the window and the beam located above it;
between the slope and the window sill.

Insert the end of the tube into the crack and start blowing foam by pressing on the cap. After filling all the cracks, wait until it hardens, and remove the excess with a knife. Outside the window, the foam must be plastered or painted, since polyurethane foam (the composition of the mounting foam) is exposed to the damaging effects of ultraviolet rays.

It is necessary to remember:

it is possible to work with polyurethane foam if the air temperature is not lower than +5° - (+30°);
the foam is able to expand, so the frame must be secured with struts, otherwise skew is possible;
we fill the gaps with mounting foam 1/3 of the width, because it, having increased in volume, will take the necessary space;
filling goes from bottom to top along the seam so that there is no loss of sealant.

A cheaper, but troublesome way of warming is a putty of gypsum and chalk (2: 1) with the addition of water. With this mixture, we easily close the cracks, and the surface has a nice appearance. By the way, there was a time when gypsum bandages were used to insulate windows, which were used in medicine to fix bones in case of fractures. They were moistened with water and applied to the joints and along cracks and crevices.

(6 way) Warming wooden windows with paraffin

One of the oldest and most proven methods is the use of paraffin as a sealant. Such an insulator retains its properties for several seasons.

We heat up the paraffin metal utensils in a water bath (60-70) and draw it into a medical syringe without a needle. The gaps are filled quickly and efficiently. If the width of the voids is impressive, we will place a ribbon or clothesline in them and fill it with hot paraffin on top.

(7 way) Insulation of wooden windows with a heat-saving film

An innovation in glass insulation is a special film that allows daylight to enter the room, but does not emit infrared radiation. Such a film has two sides, which must be taken into account when sticking to glass. We glue the side with a metallic sheen to the glass, and the transparent side inside the room. When performing work, hands should be clean, and it is better to use cotton gloves so that there are no greasy spots on the surface of the film.

We cut out the sheet with a margin and overlap it so that it can be easily fixed on the window frame with double-sided tape. Such a film, if well glued, does not violate the design of the window, and it looks aesthetically pleasing and neat. In order for it to lie evenly and without wrinkles on the glass surface, we will thermally shrink with a jet of hot air using a hair dryer.

(8 way) Warming and modernization of a wooden window

An effective way to insulate a window is its partial reconstruction and modernization. This method will keep the heat in the room and limit the passage of cold air through the window perimeter. In this case, the sashes will open freely, and the external design of the window will not be disturbed in any way. Task this method not only insulate, but also reduce the penetration of noise and sounds into the room through the window.

Hard work takes time and patience. We remove the window from the hinges and lay it on the table or on the floor. Along the entire perimeter, it is necessary to remove the glazing beads, if necessary, we replace it. We take out the glass from the frame, carefully clean the grooves on the frame for its installation, then fill the joints with sealant. We install it in its original place, and for a greater effect we pass with silicone around its entire perimeter. We put glazing beads and nail with carnations.

If you have already completed the difficult work of dismantling the frame, then do it minor repairs: remove the old varnish and paint and apply a new paint and varnish coating, replace the fittings, install new locking devices.

It must be remembered that work with polyurethane foam can only be carried out at positive temperatures not lower than + 5 °.

(9 way) Removing gaps in window frames

Due to various circumstances (impact of temperature difference, moisture), cracks appear on the window frames. To maintain the tightness of the structure and prevent their further expansion, we close the cracks in several ways:

fill with molten paraffin;
close up with a special putty for wood;
fill the gaps with sealant, you can choose the color to match the color of the frame.

If necessary, we repaint the window, while the cracks become invisible, and the frame has an attractive appearance.

(10 way) Insulation of the entire perimeter of the window frame

The whole process of warming a wooden window consists in the choice of material for the implementation of the work and the method of its installation, taking into account the characteristics of the wooden window. We insulate mainly the gap, which is located at the junction of the frame and sashes.

If you are guided by Swedish technology, then you need to make a groove inside the perimeter of the window with a special tool - a cutter and fill it with a tubular silicone sealant that will cover all the smallest cracks and defects. The process is complicated, if the window is old, then it may not withstand removal and hanging, it is not cheap, it requires the work to be done by professionals.

An easier way is to place and glue the seal around the perimeter onto the transom of the window. When we close the frame, it will bend the seal, and not slide on it, it will fit tightly, closing all the cracks. Such insulation can be laid in rows in several layers. Its use must be combined with the installation of glass on a layer of sealant. The sealant laid in this way will serve for many years and it will not be necessary to remove it in the spring and mount it in the fall.

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