How to make a country table. DIY table from boards How to make a long table with your own hands

Friends asked me to make a table that can be put in a gazebo in the country. To make a table from a bar with your own hands, I didn’t choose a special version of the project, but suggested a simple circuit assembling furniture from standard lumber: timber and boards. The main idea was that the table was low and could serve as a bench at the same time. In the workshop I had all the tools and fixtures. It remained to check everything and prepare the workplace in order to make a table of timber with your own hands.

Instruments

Since the structure must be made of wood, the tool was mainly needed for woodworking. Here's what I used when making my own table from a bar:

• jigsaw;
• saw;
• gas-burner;
• drill driver;
• wrench with socket head;
• chisels;
• drill-reamer ø 2 cm;
• hammer;
• hacksaw;
• clamps - 2 pcs.;
• cutting plate external threadø 6 mm;
• grinder;
• roulette;
• brushes.

materials

Made a trip to the construction supermarket, and purchased the following:

• varnish PF 170 - 0.5 l.;
• wood glue;

• screws 7 cm, 50 cm, washers and nuts, plastic plugs.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a wooden table from a bar with your own hands

Initially, I wanted to make a table of 50 x 50 mm bars with my own hands. But this idea had to be abandoned. Friends asked to make massive loft-style furniture. Therefore, I used larger lumber. I decided to make the table in two stages: assembling the supporting structure and forming the tabletop.

Countertop manufacturing

1. Wood 10 x 15 x 600 cm was divided with a saw into 6 segments.
2. The upper corners along the perimeter of each element were cleaned with an abrasive wheel at an angle of 45 0 0.5 cm wide.
3. To do 2 through holesø 6 mm through the worktop, clamped 3 pieces with clamps and drilled with a drill. Then he left 2 segments and added a new element and drilled again. I did this because there was no long drill.
4. Outside, the holes were expanded with a reamer ø 2 cm to a depth of 1 cm.
5. Rebar ø 6 mm sawn into 2 pieces 0.9 m long.
6. At the ends of the studs, I cut the thread with a die.
7. The side adjacent sides of the wooden elements were smeared with wood glue.
8. I threaded 2 studs into the holes. I put washers on the ends of the rods, and screwed the nuts.
9. Nuts closed with plastic caps.

1. I sanded all the side and horizontal surfaces with a fine abrasive wheel mounted on a grinder.

1. The gas burner burned the surface of the countertop slightly. This gave a noble appearance to the tree, emphasizing the structural pattern of the cut of the tree.
2. The entire countertop was stained with a brush.
3. The property of this agent is characterized by the fact that it penetrates deeply into the structure of wood, strengthening and disinfecting it. But fine fibers create hairiness on the surface of the furniture. So I refinished everything.
4. The surface of the tabletop was varnished PF 170 for 2 times.

Assembly of the support structure

Before making a table from a bar, I drew drawings of the supporting part and countertops of future furniture. According to the dimensions and dimensions specified in the drawings, I began to manufacture the supporting structure of the table with my own hands.

1. I made furniture legs by sawing a tree 10 x 20 cm into 2 parts 86 cm long + waste.
2. At the top of the supports from the outside, I fixed bars of 30 x 30 mm on screws.
3. I made a cross-beam from a board 20 x 150 x 660 cm, fixing it with screws to the centers of the sides of the supports.

1. Burned the entire outer surface gas burner, stained, sanded.
2. Supports varnished PF 170 in two layers.
3. The tabletop was mounted on a support frame.
4. Through slats 30 x30 mm, I fixed the table top with screws.

Cost of materials

• timber 100 x 150 x 6000 mm = 1500 rubles;
• timber 100 x 200 x 2000 mm = 440 rubles;
• timber 30 x 30 x 2000 mm = 50 rubles;
• board 20 x 150 x 740 mm = 20 rubles;
• abrasive wheels for grinders = 50 rubles;
• reinforcement with a diameter of ø 6 mm, length 2 m = 20 rubles;
• nuts and washers 4 pcs. in stock;
• sandpaper = 10 rubles;
• stain - 0.5 l. = 100 rubles;
• varnish PF 170 - 0.5 l. = 50 rubles;
• carpentry glue 250 g = 160 rubles;
• screws 70 mm, 50 mm available.

Total costs amounted to: 2400 rubles.

Labor costs

The time spent on making a do-it-yourself table from a bar according to the drawings is combined in the following table.

Taking into account technological breaks in work, it was possible to make a table in 3 working days. A country table made of timber, made by me according to the drawings, can play a role not only as a plane for arranging objects, but also as comfortable seating furniture. This model attracts with ease of manufacture, low labor costs and practicality. During the assembly of furniture, you must comply with all safety requirements and use personal protective equipment.

This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining table, household table, installed in a living room, on a veranda, territory, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But purchased products do not suit many in terms of a number of parameters - sizes, design features, form or for any other reason.

Given that the tree is relatively easy to cut, grind, make a table out of it according to your own drawing, with your own hands for a good owner is not a problem. Yes, and it will be much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.

room

This is ideally an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small area under a canopy is also suitable. To work with a tree on a site, in the open air, means to be completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are suitable for making furniture " square meters”, then you should worry about high-quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on the change in wind direction and pressure), and an exhaust hood is installed.

Arguments that if you use protective equipment, then you can work in a closed space, do not stand up to criticism. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some actions are performed. No precise cut along the line, no high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention the impregnation and finish paint and varnish composition) cannot be obtained.

It is impossible not to take into account the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations, if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.

Instruments

Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to "ennoble" simple design from wood, what shape to give it and a number of other nuances. If the master does not claim the elegance of a wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set will be enough.

For more “fine” work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design, special devices will be needed.

El / jigsaw. With a conventional saw, it will not work to make an inclined vertical cut, accurately maintaining the angle. The canvas will “play”, and therefore the quality of the work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in use, besides it gives high accuracy in cutting wood or cuts in it.

Miter box rotary. The main function is to facilitate corner cutting. Such a device can either be bought or made. A thing, no doubt, useful in the house. The irreplaceable assistant for exact cutting of various preparations. For example, plastic or wooden fillets (floor, ceiling), which are used to decorate any premises during the repair process.

Grinder. There are several modifications of this electric tool on the market, and the criteria for choosing it are a separate issue. For the manufacture of the table is quite suitable tape. It is universal in application, and is used not only in the assembly of furniture.

Manual frezer . If it is necessary to select grooves, process holes, and in a number of other cases, one cannot do without it.

Many of the listed fixtures can be rented if furniture making is not a hobby, but a necessity.

Impregnation and other compounds

Rotting protection:

• Working off engine oil is an effective, moreover, free tool. But not for dinner tables.
• Linseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deep into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. Minus - high cost. But if the table is intended for eating - a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing the lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, streaks, unlike mining.
• The emulsion is water-polymer. It is characterized by duration of action and safety for health.
• Acrylic varnishes. They practically supplanted their predecessors of the "NC" category, as they are harmless and in many respects better lineups which are diluted with solvents.
• PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about carpentry compositions -.

To decorate a tree:

• Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the tree, shade it.
• Wood stains.
• Varnishes with a coloring effect (toning).
• Paints (but only for wood!).
• Putties.

Using colorless varnish and pigments, you can make coloring composition, and any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a rejected board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. More than expedient, since it is not always possible to buy exactly what you need on the market.

Fasteners

All tips for assembling a wooden table with nails (the argument is simple, fast and cheap) are best ignored. The reasons are as follows:

• The nail pricks easily dry wood(and this is exactly what is taken; more on that below).
• Correctly directing his leg (strictly vertically) is quite difficult. In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your oversight.
• A tree, even the most protected from rot, eventually succumbs to it. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2 - 3 will have to be changed.

• When assembling a wooden table, if one glue is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
• Sometimes its individual parts (at the joints) require reinforcement. It is not advisable to strengthen the strength with a hardware with a thicker and longer leg. The reason is the same - the probability of splitting the tree. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, corners are used.

Features of the choice of wood

Someone focuses on the cost of lumber, another is important for the resistance of the tree to decay, for the third - its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use for the table, unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in the back room or garage, the same type of wood. This is exactly what many novice "craftsmen" do, picking up the same type of boards and bars from what is left of the construction or repair and gathering dust in the barn.

When making a wooden table for living quarters, verandas, and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if there is not enough experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in life is just a kind of training in manufacturing, gaining experience.

Tabletop. Here in the first place - strength and minimal absorption of moisture. It is on this part of the table that something is constantly spilled. Optimal choice- pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.

If the dimensions of the countertop are small, then wood-based slab products (OSV and the like) can be used. But only with lamination to prevent swelling of the material when liquid enters the surface of the table. For example, LDSP.

Legs. Birch. From moisture it can “lead”, but in terms of strength - an excellent option. The optimal parameters for the blanks for the legs (in cm) are: length - about 76, cross section - 5 x 5. Dowels. Acacia. It is much easier to find than boards from the often recommended boxwood.

In the furniture industry, low-grade lumber is not used. This is not economically feasible, since pre-treatment of wood increases the duration of the production cycle. But in the manufacture of something, wood of lower grades, substandard - just right. The same pallets left after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.

And not just because it's free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood with a competent approach can be turned into pluses. For example, after coating with a colorless varnish, the countertop acquires a unique original look.

The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.

If pine is chosen for the countertop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called humpbacks. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of laying them in a row. Samples obtained by the tangential sawing method are arranged in alternation (pink down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same way (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but it is the observance of this recommendation that eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.

For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. During the drying of the wood, it will deform; this is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly begin to warp, and you will have to deal with its repair. And here you need to decide whether to purchase high-dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.

1. First, it is necessary to ensure stable temperature regime in the storage area. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
2. Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
3. Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait, up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; Even this takes practice.

This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make wood furniture for the first time, one should focus on the simplest table for household needs from cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.

Variants and schemes of wooden tables

It should be immediately noted that any work related to the design and self assembly is a creative process. There are no stereotypes in this business, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms, it is worth choosing structures whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, hiking, hanging, garden, level, and so on.

Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, playing games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms for a specific purpose, are made stationary, that is, of unchanging size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are fixed rigidly; no articulated joints.

Features of the assembly of wooden tables

If a person undertakes to make something, then he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with lumber. Such home master learning the basics of carpentry is not necessary. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will be useful to note. These notes will only help in the process of work.

Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that is assembled with your own hands, the following are quite enough.

On dowels

In this case, the parts are fastened by landing on the adhesive composition (Fig. 1 - 3).

The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders" that are inserted into pre-drilled "channels", a tree of a denser structure is taken than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.

These round sticks are commercially available, in any furniture store, in several sizes. To grind them, even with a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for collapsible connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level racks, etc.).

Nails should not be used to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - a “shat” will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.

On the tsargs

It is advisable to make such connections if the table has to be either periodically disassembled, or without it it cannot be moved through the doorway. Although not all kings involve the dismantling of the structure. The most practiced options are shown in the figures.

Bolted

Such connections are mainly used for garden or outbuilding furniture; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.

The nuance of working with fasteners

In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the right direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation with a drill, with a diameter slightly smaller than the fastener leg. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the center lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, for the "landing" of the self-tapping screw, you can do without a screwdriver.

Features of wood processing

Everyone knows that a planer is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be done repeatedly. Here much depends on the type of wood and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the villi may “stand up”. Nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with an abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is by this technique that you can bring the "problem" wood to the ideal "smoothness".

To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.

Features of the exterior

• Minor defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty composition.
• After sanding, all wood dust must be removed. In this case, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate nozzle will help out. After such cleaning, it is recommended to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat the cleaning of the remaining dust. After that, you can safely proceed to applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the tree.
• You can give originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, an unusual shape of the tabletop or legs, a combination of textures of different species, and so on. One of the good options is art painting.

And finally. Work on self-manufacturing something made of wood (of the same table) - just First stage mastering the skill of "designer-assembler". Having worked out the technologies, techniques on wood, having acquired the necessary skills, it is enough just to switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table made according to even the simplest drawing (apart from the pleasure of working and saving money) are obvious - not wasted time.

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means toning and protecting wood, like wood stains, emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, and on the farm it will come in handy for many things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is easy to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not cultivated at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and the juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

Free means of protecting wood from decay - used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this option is not the best. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production this is acceptable to you.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, it turns out garden table like a magazine, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. The table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, therefore, in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs come to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer is applied to the surface of the end silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed out into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a table top. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the cavities are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

Table base with non-removable legs - simple wooden frame, on the left in Fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, and in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on, steel legs you can do it yourself. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But the table top made of boards in this case is not the best. the best way: due to availability sharp corners it is without a frame, very complex and laborious, subject to splitting. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern mechanisms extensions with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they can by no means be called popular: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We will get the board back in the underframe, and our portion of the treat - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

Of course, today everyone has the opportunity to buy any furniture in the store, including a table. But why not make it yourself, with your own hands?

This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In addition, you have the opportunity to make such a table that will fit perfectly in size and appearance to the interior of your kitchen or other room.

In addition, do-it-yourself furniture is not only saving money, but also some kind of, but a reason for pride, since not every man knows how to make something these days.

What are the tables

If you decide from the boards with your own hands, then you need to figure out what types of tables are, and decide what exactly you need.

The simplest is an ordinary table with four legs, a table top and a frame. It will not be difficult to make it even for those who are not experienced in woodworking.

If you are experienced enough in this matter, you can make the dining table round or oval, decorate it with carvings, paintings, or burn patterns and patterns on the surface.

More difficult option is from planks. In fact, this is the same ordinary table, but rather thick and long crossbars are attached to its legs, on which seat boards are laid on top. So we get a table with benches on both sides. Such furniture is well suited for both the kitchen and for installation in the courtyard of a private house or cottage.

If the room has free space only in the corner, make a corner table that fits perfectly into this unoccupied space. It may not be as convenient to dine behind it as at a classic table, but you can put a TV, microwave or kettle on it - there will be enough space there.

Another interesting option can become a window sill table.

In fact, this is the same window sill, but significantly expanded and adapted, for example, for a convenient workplace for a schoolchild.

The advantage of this solution is that the table will be well lit for most of the day.

There is also a minus: sitting at such a table in winter, you will have to rest your feet on a very warm, even hot radiator, which is not very convenient.

Materials and tools

Buying everything you need to make a table with your own hands is quite simple and will not be difficult or expensive. The main material for the dining table is wood, or rather:

• Boards 25 to 50 mm thick, 100–150 mm wide, quite long.
  The thicker the material for the tabletop, frame and legs, the heavier, but at the same time more durable they will be.
  Choose boards from good wood, without any defects.
• Bar. It is necessary for the manufacture of table legs, so choose thick enough and strong samples. The beam can be replaced with the same boards, if you arrange them with the letter "G", or use purchased aluminum table legs. You can also use balusters (curly carved wooden posts that support the railing on some stairs) as legs.
• Chipboard or plywood sheets, which can be used as countertop materials. Choose samples that are thick and strong enough to withstand daily stress.

As with the materials And Do-it-yourself tools and fasteners are easy to get, they are in most homes. If something is missing, you can buy it at the nearest hardware store.

• pencil, corner, roulette and ruler;
• jigsaw or hacksaw on wood;
• screwdriver with a set of nozzles and drills;
• plane, if it is necessary to pre-treat the boards from irregularities and defects;
• kit self-tapping screws, furniture bolts and nuts;
• sandpaper or Sander;
• varnish or stain, roller or tassel for processing the finished table.

Attention! When working with a jigsaw, always remember the safety rules and keep small children or pets away!

simple plank kitchen table

First we need to make a countertop.
There are several options here:

• Cut out a piece of the desired size from a sheet of chipboard or plywood using a jigsaw;
• Lay several fairly wide boards and subsequently fix them on the frame;
• Take a large number of relatively narrow boards, place them with their side up and glue them together with wood glue.
  The result is a fairly thick, heavy and durable countertop.

Stages of work

Step 1. Collecting from boards countertop.

Step 2 We make a frame from boards or their wooden bars. In size, it can be made equal to the tabletop or with a slight indentation, about 2–2.5 centimeters on each side of the table. Having fastened the parts of the frame with screws, connect the frame with the tabletop with them.

Step 3 After we from put together the frame and the tabletop, half the table is ready. It remains to make only his legs. If a timber is used for this, drill two holes in it for furniture bolts. Moreover, they can be made both on the one hand, one above the other, and on two different ones for more secure fastening to the frame.

Important! Carefully check the length of the table legs, they should not differ from each other. Otherwise, the table will stand unevenly and stagger. If you do not want it to spoil the floor material, fix rubber “shoes” at the bottom of the legs.

After that, make similar holes in the table frame and fasten the legs and frame with bolts and nuts. Also, the legs can be fixed from above, using screws, but over time, this fastening may weaken.

If you want to make table legs from boards, fold two boards into an “G” on the outer or inner corner of the frame and secure them with all the same furniture bolts or screws.

To prevent the legs from loosening, connect the folded boards together at the bottom and middle parts with screws or nails.

That's all, simple and reliable, do-it-yourself, ready!

Advice: Before proceeding, do simple drawing, preferably from several sides. Constantly check the dimensions of the parts. Some parts of the same size can be sawn out at the same time if you fix the boards or timber with clamps.

pallet table

Wooden pallets are widely used in shops and warehouses as cargo pallets.

If you wish, you can get a few pieces for free and use them as a basis for making an original and unusual kitchen table.

If at least one side of the pallet surface is solid, then you no longer need to make a countertop, it is ready.

You just need to process it and, if desired, round the corners.

Note! Since initially the pallets are intended for warehouses, no one is engaged in their grinding and cleaning. Therefore, before making a table out of them, carefully sand them and remove all burrs. Irregularities and defects of the boards can be hidden with putty.

Stages of work

Step 1. Most of the pallets are open and there is plenty of space between the boards. distance, due to which to use the surface of the pallet as countertop not too convenient. There are two ways to solve this problem: either boards appropriate size and to fix with their screws between the boards of the pallet, or install a sheet on top plywood or chipboard.

Step 2 As for ordinary table, table legs from pallets can be made from timber or boards. The best thing fasten them with thick enough and strong pallet beam with nails, screws or furniture bolts.

To prevent the legs from loosening, connect them to each other with crossbars.

Who said that a table is a simple piece of furniture? In fact, creating a table is a fascinating activity, especially with your own hands made of natural wood. Today, in a review of our editors, we will tell you how to make a wooden table with your own hands, what knowledge you need to have in order for your design to serve for many years without any complaints.

Ideas for making a wooden table with your own hands: photos, recommendations, drawings and step-by-step instructions

Before getting to work, it is important to decide on the following points:

1. Dimensions and operating conditions. The functionality and additional measures that will need to be taken will depend on this.
2. Find (draw) a plan.
3. Choice of material and accessories.

For a novice master, it is better to choose simpler sketches. Here are some sketches you might find useful.

Related article:

Photo examples, drawings, schemes, materials; features of the manufacture of furniture for the garden, nursery, baths, gazebos, advice and recommendations of the masters - read in our publication.

Wooden table for summer cottage and home: choice of material

It is best to use natural wood. Even old boards are suitable for an experienced craftsman. A few movements with a planer and now - the raw materials for work are ready. The prepared wood must be dried.

Tools needed to create a wooden table with your own hands

For manufacturing, for example, you need a minimum set hand tool: hacksaw, hammer, miter box, screwdriver, nails, screws, tape measure or ruler, square and pencil.

Related article:

: what is it, advantages and disadvantages; step by step manufacturing coffee table, armchairs, sofas, benches, shelving; features of the decor with a photo - read in the publication.

DIY wood table: drawings, photos and step-by-step instructions

For work, you can use both solid boards and. Conduct an audit old furniture, it is possible that you will find materials that you can use.

Making a round wooden table

Let's look at the process of making a simple round table from boards for giving. We need ordinary boards and slats to secure the structure.

Important! Before starting work, the boards must be processed with a planer and sandpaper.

Illustration	Action Description
	We lay out the processed boards in the sequence in which we will bring down the table. In our case, they have grooves and we will connect them according to the tenon-groove system.
	We connect the boards with the help and squeeze with clamps. The clamps can be removed after 24 hours.
	With the help of bars we increase the countertop. Next, on the resulting shield, find the center and, using a compass or auxiliary means (nail, twine and pencil), draw a circle with a diameter of 1000 mm.
	Next, with the help, cut out a circle along the outlined contour.
	Sanding the work surface.
	We will make the legs from bars 4 × 4 cm in size. We process them with a grinder.
	We fasten the legs to the corners.
	Here we have such a simple table for giving.

Related article:

: photos of the stages of work, the advantages and disadvantages of such beds, their varieties, as well as step by step master class on the manufacture of such structures, how to choose the right mattress for pallet beds - in our publication.

How to make a wooden kitchen table

Very simple and stylish table can be obtained by spending literally one evening in.

By the way, this model is very popular, if you want the same for your kitchen, you can make it yourself.

And here is another option for making a simple kitchen table with your own hands -

Photo gallery of various handmade wooden tables

For example, we suggest exploring several options for wooden tables for different rooms in our photo gallery.

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