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Garlic rots in the ground - what is the evidence of the process? What to do if the garlic has fallen. Why garlic turns yellow - the reasons. General rules for growing Why does garlic die in the garden

You have a good harvest of garlic this year. The heads are large, the teeth are large. But in the fall, when they began to clean them for pickling mushrooms, they found that the garlic was rotting under the scales. The pulp first turns brown, translucent, and then becomes moldy. One bulb contains both sick and healthy teeth. Can the harvest be saved? How to Grow Healthy Garlic?

Now you can't do anything with garlic. Practice shows that it is not possible to save diseased bulbs. Under the scales, the lesions are invisible, but even outwardly healthy teeth and bulbs gradually begin to rot.

If the garlic has begun to rot, it is recommended to fill the peeled cloves with vegetable oil. But in this form, garlic is not stored for long. The only way to save the crop is to clean the teeth, cut off diseased areas from them and sprinkle with plenty of salt. Keep refrigerated. Consume as quickly as possible. There are many recipes that use garlic. It will help support immunity and resist colds.

WHEN DID GARLIC SICK?

This year, many are complaining about the condition of the garlic. The weather conditions were favorable for the growth of pathogenic fungi, which caused its decay.

Unfortunately, amateur gardeners are in no rush to apply fungicides until they see signs of the disease. And the symptoms were - this is an early yellowing of garlic leaves. But this phenomenon often occurs due to a lack of potassium in the soil, so not everyone was able to determine the onset of the disease. Those who timely treated garlic with antifungal drugs had significantly less crop losses. The plantings had to be watered with solutions of such fungicides as Alirin, Gamair, Glyokladin, Fitosporin.

WHAT IS THE DIAGNOSIS?

According to the description, it is difficult to establish what specific infection her garlic was infected with. The most harmful diseases of garlic include fusarium, white rot of the bottom and bacterial diseases.

Fusarium. It progresses if rainy warm weather with a temperature of 25-30C is present during the ripening period of garlic. Over-watering is often the cause of infection. The disease develops from the bottom. The first signs are observed even during the growing period: yellowing and drying of the leaves starting from the top. In affected plants, the bulbs become soft, slightly watery, a white mycelium develops in the area of ​​the bottom of the bulb, the roots rot and die off, diseased plants are easily pulled out of the ground. Garlic planted in the fall suffers more severely. Sources of infection are contaminated soil and planting material.

White rot of the bottom. This disease develops with high humidity and cool weather (10-20C). Plants are affected during the entire growing season, as well as during storage. With this disease in young plants, the leaves turn yellow starting from the top, and then die off. The garlic withers and dies. A dense white mycelium forms on the roots of the bulb, the chives become watery and rot.

Bacterial diseases. Garlic is affected during storage. In this case, the tissue of the cloves changes: the vitreousness of individual areas or the entire clove is observed. Ulcers or bottom rot appear under the hard scales.

COMBAT MEASURES

Against all these diseases, autumn dressing of garlic is recommended before planting with a 3% suspension of 50% basezol (benlate). To do this, the teeth must be immersed in it for 3-5 minutes, then dried and planted. Treatment with biological preparations, for example, Fitosporin, is also effective. For 5 liters of water, take a bottle of this product and soak the teeth in it for 5-6 minutes. Then this solution is sprayed on all the beds on which garlic, bulbs and small seedlings are planted.

The main way to combat fusarium is strict rejection and destruction of diseased plants, as well as compliance with crop rotation. Try not to plant garlic after potatoes, as in this case it is more affected by fusarium. Plant the garlic in its original place no earlier than three years later.

For planting it is necessary to use only healthy planting material. This means that you cannot take teeth from a diseased bulb. You may find teeth in it that look healthy in appearance, but remember that they are already infected. If your garlic is sick, buy another planting material, do not plant your own!

PLANTING GARLIC

Be sure to add 180-200 g of saltpeter and potassium chloride and 600-650 g of superphosphate per 10 m2 to the beds. Plant the teeth of winter varieties 35-45 days before the onset of persistent cold weather. In middle latitudes, the optimal time is from September 20 to October 15. Garlic planted early germinates, and late planted - freezes.

Separate the bulbs into cloves 2-3 days before planting. Moreover, the shorter the period before planting, the better, since the cloves, separated from the bottom of the bulbs, dry out quickly (and sometimes rot). Experienced gardeners carry out the following training. The teeth are divided by size into large and medium, washed in a solution of sodium chloride (3 tablespoons per 5 liters of water) for 1-2 minutes and dipped for 1 minute in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). After soaking, the cloves are planted on the ridges without rinsing.

Do not plant the garlic too small. The depth of the autumn planting is 4-5 cm, counting from the top of the clove. It is better not to water the planted garlic, even if the soil is slightly dry: autumn rains can cause waterlogging of the soil.

VARIETIES RESISTANT TO FUSARIOSIS

Jubilee Gribovsky. Mid-season, shooting. The growing season from germination to yellowing of leaves is 83-122 days. Productivity up to 1.25 kg / sq.m. Bulb weight 22-44 g.

Zubrenok. Mid-season variety of winter garlic, arrowhead. The bulb is large, weighing 54-72 g, the number of cloves is 4-6. Productivity - 1.2 kg / sq.m.

Novosibirsk. Mid-season, non-shooting variety. The growing season is 75-81 days. Productivity - 1.04 kg / sq.m.

Replicant. Mid-season, shooting variety of winter garlic. Productivity 1.8 kg / sq.m.

Garlic is a popular crop grown in almost every vegetable garden. Everyone knows that the bulbous plant has a bactericidal effect, which is why it must be resistant to decay. However, many people have problems in growing associated with rotting garlic. Let's figure out why garlic rots in the garden and what to do to prevent this problem.

External signs of decay

In order not to lose crops and eliminate rotting, you need to constantly inspect the plantings. It is also important to pay attention to the following points:

  • early yellowness of leaves, the appearance of unusual spots and streaks;
  • the occurrence of a putrid odor in the process of loosening the earth.

If these symptoms occur, it is advisable to pull out 1 head from the soil and examine the cloves. If it is clearly visible that the bulb has become soft, and there is damage on it, then urgent measures should be taken to save the crop.

There can be many reasons causing rotting. In any case, only timely measures to eliminate painful symptoms will help save the crop.

Agrotechnical reasons

Errors in agricultural technology affect the state of all crops. To avoid spoilage of the crop, it is necessary to take watering, loosening the soil, and choosing a place for planting seriously.

Excess moisture

When the plant receives more moisture than is required, the tendency to disease increases. In addition, excessively moist soil promotes rotting. Garlic needs moderate watering. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil.

Watering should be stopped one month before harvest. And before that, you should not allow even a slight stagnation of moisture. It is especially important to be careful when growing a crop on heavy clay soil, where it is necessary to close the garden bed during heavy rains.

Incorrect feeding

Before planting garlic, the soil should be fertilized, so many make the mistake of not feeding during the growing season. But this is wrong. You can not fertilize plants only when grown on fertile land.

Even if top dressing is applied, it is required to limit the nitrogen content in them: this component is necessary for garlic only at the beginning of growth. When making a large number nitrogen crop can rot in the ground or during storage.

Wrong landing site and care errors

It is better to plant garlic in a sunny area, on a hill, where there is no stagnant water. Partial shade is allowed, but then the yield will be low, and it will not be easy to monitor the irrigation regime.

Another reason for head decay is the lack of timely weeding and loosening. Another problem may lie in non-compliance with the terms of planting and harvesting, improper preparation of the teeth for planting. Flower arrows should be processed in a timely manner so that the strength of the plant is not wasted. With the correct agricultural technology, the plant is more rare, but regular inspection in the garden is still needed.

Fungal diseases

Mushrooms are considered a frequent provoking factor in the appearance of rotting. Microorganisms appear with irregular watering and inappropriate weather. To reduce the risk of contamination through contaminated seeds, cloves are treated before sowing.

Fusarium

High humidity and warm weather (more than 13-20 degrees) are considered favorable for the development of fusarium. For this reason, the disease often spreads in the southern parts of the country.

Fusarium affects many cultivated plants, and is usually located on their remains. The reason for the rapid infection and decay of the bulbs is damage by pests and mechanical damage during the harvesting period.

With fusarium, the following symptoms are noticeable:

  • The tips of the leaves turn yellow and wilted. Over time, these symptoms spread to the rest of the plant.
  • Brown stripes appear on the leaves.
  • When pulled out of the soil, the garlic is easily separated, as the roots quickly rot.
  • There is a softening of the bottom of the bulbs and cloves. Light mycelium appears on them.

If fusarium was detected, diseased plants must be removed from the site. It is also necessary to reduce the watering of the plant, regardless of the weather.

White rot of garlic

This disease is characterized by the following symptoms:

  • The tips of the leaves turn yellow first. Then this symptom goes to the green area of ​​the plant.
  • If the garlic is pulled out of the ground, then the roots will white bloom mycelium of the fungus. It goes into the bulb through the bottom. As a result, the culture rots and becomes watery.

Usually, gardeners do not pay attention to the drying of the leaves and learn about the disease when the bulbs rot. With the help of fungicides, it will be possible to save a large amount of the crop if it is processed in time and diseased plants are removed.

Downy mildew

Fungal infection occurs in high humidity and cool weather (7-16 degrees). Bulb decay also occurs in summer due to frequent fogs with prolonged precipitation. In such conditions, peronosporosis is capable of destroying a large volume of the crop in 2-3 weeks. When dry, sunny days come, the infection does not spread as quickly as it used to.

Downy mildew overwinters in soil in forgotten bulbs or in seed. When an infection occurs, it is advisable to perform fungicide treatment: Quadris, Areva Gold VG.

Bacterial rot

It appears from mechanical damage. Most often, rot starts from pests that violate the integrity of vegetables. Streaks and spots appear on diseased teeth, the pulp becomes pearlescent.

The danger lies in the fact that complete decay is observed during the storage period. The disease is difficult to identify by an unopened bulb. For the purpose of treatment, the plant is purified from organic residues, mineral fertilizing with phosphorus is introduced and the norms for crop rotation are fulfilled.

Pests

A common cause of garlic rot is insect damage to plants. Pests spread when crop rotation norms are violated, soil depletion and unstable irrigation. Control is carried out with general purpose insecticides.

Onion fly

The larvae of the pest eat the garlic pulp. The insect hibernates in the ground. During the flowering period of crops, a fly appears on the surface. And after 3-7 days, the larvae hatch, making their way into the bulbs.

Several generations of pests may appear during the season. This is usually facilitated by a rainy summer. Diseased bulbs rot due to the penetration of fungi and bacterial infections. Garlic leaves turn yellow, curled and dry. If the head is cut open, the larvae will be visible.

Onion root mite

A favorable environment for the development of the pest is a temperature of 23-26 degrees and a humidity of 60-65%. The mite can severely damage the crop. 200-300 eggs are placed in the bulb, and after 7-8 days the larvae appear, then they begin to multiply.

The onion mite is spread in the beds by the wind or moves by itself.

Due to damage to the bottom of the bulb, rotting begins. The leaves turn yellow, and if you open the head, the waste products of the insect will be visible.

Onion stem nematode

A pest can ruin the entire crop. It appears not only from mechanical factors, but also from damage by fungi and bacteria.

The nematoda spends the winter in the remains of garlic plants in the ground. Promotes its spread high humidity and coolness. First, the root rots, then the bulb. Light stripes appear on the plant and it begins to dry out. A putrid smell is also felt.

What to do if garlic rots in the garden

If the garlic is infected with a fungal infection, then all damaged areas of the plant should be removed. It will not be possible to completely cure it, and if you leave it in the garden, the entire crop will become infected. The land needs to be treated with fungicides. Bordeaux liquid, Fundazol, Gamair, Maxim are suitable for this. The main thing is to follow the procedures strictly according to the instructions.

Pests can be eliminated with safe and effective folk remedies:

  • Tansy inflorescences (1 kg) must be filled with water (3 liters), brought to a boil and filtered. The cooled broth is used to spray the garlic.
  • Yarrow shoots (800 g) should be poured with boiling water (10 l), leave for 2 days. Then strain the composition and apply to the treatment of the plant.
  • Pour nettle (1 kg) with warm water (10 l). The tool should be infused for 4-5 days. After filtering, water is added to the composition in an amount of 1:50. It is used to spray plants.

Problem prevention

Garlic beds are treated with manganese - a weak solution. This should be done while watering. It is necessary that the agent is in contact with the tops. Treatment is used against pests mustard powder and wood ash. In case of severe infestations, insecticides and fungicides show themselves well.

Crop beds should be located in elevated, well-lit areas. Avoid growing the plant in shaded areas and lowlands.

Why does garlic rot during storage, and how to save it

Rotting garlic after harvest can be due to the following reasons:

  • Cervical rot... Appears with weak tissues of the bulbs. A gray bloom is visible on the teeth. Infection occurs from planting material.
  • Green mold... The disease occurs a couple of months after storage. The denticles will be flaccid and yellowish.
  • Black mold... The denticles acquire a black coating. The spread of the fungus is rapid.
  • Penicilliosis... Yellow or brown spots are noticeable on the heads; over time, mold forms on them.
  • Fusarium... Sore heads become soft and watery.
  • Bacteriosis... Ulcers appear on the teeth.

In order to prevent the appearance of diseases, you need to follow preventive measures:

  • observe crop rotation;
  • plant garlic at a decent distance from onion beds;
  • during the growing season, in time to eliminate infected plants;
  • cleaning and cultivating the land after the harvest;
  • disinfect culture storage;
  • use only healthy planting material;
  • after harvesting, the garlic must be dried and sorted; only healthy heads need to be stored.
  • for storage, choose a dry room in which the temperature is 1-3 degrees, and the humidity is not higher than 75%.
  • if rot is detected, it is necessary to sort out the crop and destroy the diseased heads;
  • for 1-2 days, the cloves are treated with biofungicide.

Garlic decay occurs for various reasons. To get a high-quality and healthy harvest, it is necessary to properly care for the plants and take preventive measures.

In May - June, many gardeners complain that winter garlic turns yellow in the garden. Let's figure out why this undesirable phenomenon occurs and what to do in this case. Garlic begins to turn yellow from the tips of the leaves, and this is the first sign that something is wrong with the plant. It is important to take timely measures to help the garlic heal and form large, aromatic heads.

Why does garlic turn yellow in May - June?

The reasons may be as follows:

  • winter garlic was severely frozen, which often occurs in May - early June;
  • fungal disease on the bulb (easy to check - pull out and inspect the bottom);
  • the plant lacks nutrients (most often the leaves of garlic turn yellow if there is not enough potassium and nitrogen);
  • insufficient watering (this often happens in June, when it is already warm enough);
  • too dense soil, poor oxygen supply to the roots (loosening is necessary);
  • pests - an onion fly and a hidden proboscis (they can be detected with the naked eye).

Have you decided on the reason? Then we will urgently take action! 😉

What to do? Feed!

The most common causes of yellowing of garlic in practice are - return frosts and nutritional deficiencies... The first thing to do is to feed the plants. Top dressing will strengthen them, help them recover faster after frost, and replenish the supply of nutrients in the soil. Fertilizers for garlic can be applied dry, as well as by watering under the root or spraying the leaves with liquid solutions.

Dry dressing. First you need to loosen the soil between the rows of garlic, then cut grooves literally a couple of centimeters deep and pour granules of urea (carbamide) or complex mineral fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. Fertilizers are sprinkled with earth and well watered with a bed of garlic. Irrigation is indispensable here, since plants consume nutrients only in dissolved form. Finally, the bed can be covered with compost to retain moisture.

Root dressing. Water is poured into a bucket and 1 tablespoon of urea (with a slide) or a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Fertiki Lux, is dissolved in it. The resulting solution is poured over the garlic from a watering can or a ladle. Solution consumption: 10 liters per 1 square meter of plantings.

Foliar dressing. Potassium sulfate is used to spray the leaves (this trace element is also often lacking in garlic) or complex fertilizers. The rate for the preparation of a potassium sulfate solution: 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water. Complex fertilizers are dissolved according to the instructions on the package (for watering and spraying, as a rule, the dosages are different).

Important!

  • In May, garlic needs more nitrogen supplements, and in June - potassium-phosphorus supplements.
  • You can also water the yellowed garlic with folk remedies: solution of ammonia or wood ash (they will be discussed below). Ammonia is a source of nitrogen, and ash is a source of potassium and phosphorus. In addition, both substances reduce the acidity of the soil, which is very important for garlic.
  • It is important to regularly loosen the soil and remove weeds from the garlic bed. In dense, rough soil, garlic grows worse, turns yellow. And weeds create comfortable conditions for the development of fungal diseases.

After frost The preparations "Epin" and "Zircon" help the plants to recover. And if the garlic has noticeably suffered from recurrent frosts, it is advisable to carry out the treatment with these agents. And in order to prevent freezing of the leaves of garlic and, as a result, their yellowing, in early spring, the bed should be covered with spandbond.

Garlic turns yellow, which means it is sick!

If the bottom leaves of the garlic are covered yellow spots Is peronosporosis. Over time, the feather becomes slimy and falls off. Mildew can also be seen on the underside of the leaf. A similar picture is observed not only in garlic, but also in onions.

Treatment with drugs "Quadris", "Fitosporin", "Trichodermin", "Glyocladin" will save from peronosporosis, they suppress the development of the fungus. Boost immunity and resistance various diseases feeding also helps. Diseases often affect weak plants, but strong and well-groomed plants do not care!

Another unpleasant disease that often affects garlic is rust. It manifests itself in the form of rusty specks on the leaves, which then cover the entire plant as a whole. Treatment with fungicides "Oxyhom", "Ridomil", "Bravo" helps.

Too acidic soil on the site can also become the reason of poor "health" of garlic and yellowing of leaves. In acidic soil, the plant looks depressed, weakened, grows poorly, since the absorption of nutrients is disturbed. You can deacidify the soil with lime, dolomite flour or chalk, well in advance, not immediately before boarding. Since the plant is weakened in acidic soil, it is more susceptible to attacks by pests and diseases. That is why it is so important to pay attention to this parameter.

Folk remedies (how to pour yellowed garlic)

In the arsenal folk remedies for feeding garlic, ammonia and ash are often used.

Ammonia - a source of nitrogen for plants. Onions and garlic are often watered with an aqueous solution of ammonia for the purpose of feeding, as well as increasing resistance to diseases and pests. The solution is prepared in a proportion of 2-3 tablespoons of ammonia per 10 liters of water. Watering garlic with ammonia is more relevant in May, since it is in the spring that garlic has a high nitrogen demand. And in June you need potassium and phosphorus. Salmon is good not only for garlic, but also for the soil. It reduces its acidity and improves its structure, which is very important, because one of the reasons why the tips of garlic leaves turn yellow is that the soil is too acidic.

The most dangerous and common pests of onions and garlic, which can not only damage the leaves, but also destroy the entire crop, are onion fly and lurker... And here again ammonia will help out (the proportions are the same)! You need to water it three times, with an interval of 10 days.

Ash- a source of potassium and phosphorus. For watering at the root, 1 glass of ash is diluted per 10 liters of water and insisted for 1-2 hours, and for spraying, an extract is prepared in a proportion of 1/2 ash per 10 liters of water. If the soil is sufficiently moistened and it rains regularly, the ash can be simply sprinkled on the ground, slightly covered with a loosener. Together with the rains, the fertilizer will penetrate to the roots.

Hydrogen peroxide sprinkle on a feather of garlic and onion at the rate of 1 liter 2 tablespoons. Revives yellowed leaves after frostbite.

Garlic is a spice grown by many summer residents on their site. Both underground and aerial part It has wide application in various spheres of human activity. Spice bulbs and leaves are an indispensable part of many culinary recipes, as well as for the preparation of many folk medicines... To obtain a high-quality and plentiful harvest, many aspects must be observed, among which are the application of fertilizing and soil moistening. Some summer residents say that garlic rots in the ground. This phenomenon requires urgent measures to save the crop. To do this, it is necessary to understand why the process of rotting begins in the soil layer and what contributes to a negative phenomenon.

The main causes of rotting garlic in the soil

The first sign that something is wrong with the underground part of the spice. This factor should alert the owner of the garden. Most gardeners look for the cause in the soil or untimely planting, but it is important to check the condition of the head of garlic. This phenomenon can be the cause of infection of the bulb with fungal diseases, which are primarily manifested by yellowing of the foliage. Among the most common diseases are the following:

Problem solving methods

The main causes of most diseases are dampness and warm weather. Therefore, waterlogging of the soil should be excluded as much as possible. As a prevention of decay, the following aspects should be adhered to:

Only compliance with the rules of planting, watering and fertilizing will allow you to grow a high-quality crop of irreplaceable spices on your own plot.

Rotting of garlic can begin after harvesting, as well as during the cultivation of a vegetable in the beds. Why does garlic rot? - we will consider this issue further.

Determine the onset of the disease

In which cases rotting garlic, and when is it necessary to sound the alarm about the beginning of the decay process? Often a sign of the onset of rotting of garlic in the garden is a prematurely yellowed tops. However, gardeners rarely pay attention to this sign. Therefore, the use of fungicides (drugs that prevent decay) is late.

Early yellowed garlic tops may also be a sign of potassium deficiency in the soil, therefore, attention to this factor is not paid enough. main reason rotting garlic in the garden - unfavorable and damp weather conditions. Their result is the emergence and development of fungal infections in the area of ​​growth of garlic.

Why does garlic rot?

If garlic rots in the garden, this can be due to several reasons. Establish such reasons only by description appearance garlic is very difficult. The most common diseases of garlic that can cause rotting are bacterial, white rot on the bottom of the garlic, or fusarium.

Fusarium garlic is one of the reasons why garlic rots. This ailment develops when garlic is grown in high humidity combined with high temperatures. Over-watering the garlic can lead to the development of fusarium. The development of the disease begins from the bottom (from the bottom of the garlic), and the onset of fusarium occurs at the time of cultivation.

When the garlic is still in the garden, the tops begin to turn yellow and dry earlier than usual (these processes start from the top of the tops). During the development of Fusarium, the garlic cloves become overly soft and yellowish in color. The root system of garlic dies off, as a result of which the plants affected by Fusarium can be easily removed from the soil. Fusarium is transmitted to healthy garlic through soil or contaminated planting material.

Garlic bacterial diseases can also lead to rotting. Is this the main reason why garlic rots after harvesting?

Bacterial ailments affect garlic exclusively during storage; in the process of their development, garlic tissues change and begin to rot, become vitreous. The formation of bottom rot or local bacterial ulcers (they form under the tough garlic scales) is observed.

White rot of the bottom - develops during the cultivation of garlic and during its winter storage. The main reason for the occurrence is excessive watering or soil moisture in combination with low temperature indicators (up to 20 degrees).

Garlic tops begin to turn yellow early, with yellowing starting from the top of the leaves. Subsequently, the dying off of garlic leaves occurs. The roots of garlic are covered with a white bloom (mycelium) and gradually die off. The garlic cloves themselves become watery and begin to rot.

How to prevent rotting of garlic?

If the garlic rots, then nothing can be done. It is advisable to immediately get rid of rotten cloves, and healthy garlic must be completely cleaned of scales, then filled with vegetable oil. This preservation method does not work for long, so you can take the pickling of healthy garlic as a basis.

To do this, healthy garlic cloves also need to be cleaned and completely rid them of decaying areas. Then put in a clean container and sprinkle with salt. You can store garlic in this way in the refrigerator, but you also need to eat it quickly.

It is best to prevent rotting of garlic. To do this, it is necessary to use pickling of garlic before planting in the ground (this procedure is done using a suspension of foundationol). The garlic must be immersed in the solution for five minutes, then dried and planted in the soil. Effective in the prevention of garlic rot and Fitosporin. After preparation, this solution is used to soak garlic cloves, as well as to sprinkle the beds before sowing.

With fusarium, all diseased cloves of garlic must be discarded and not allowed to be sown again. It is also necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation when planting garlic. Avoid placing garlic next to fusarium-causing potatoes. Also, you cannot place garlic in the same garden every season. Change the place of sowing garlic.

Do not use infected or diseased garlic cloves as planting material and then you will be able to avoid looking for answers to the question "why does garlic rot"?

If your planting material is infected with bacterial diseases or viruses of garlic rot, do not let it into the garden, get a healthy garlic set, then your harvest will be wonderful and healthy.

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