Milling table for a manual milling cutter drawing. Do-it-yourself table for a router. Preparing the bed and worktop

2. Glue the right leg FROM to support B (Fig. 1) and secure with additional screws. Set the assembly aside. Saw out the tsargi I. Then make cutouts for the tsarg in the middle support. How to carefully make such cutouts is described in "".

3. Using the middle support cutouts IN, mark the width of the upper dividing shelf F (photo A). File the shelf to the final width. Then determine the width of the bottom shelf G and cut it off (photo B).

FOR A PRECISE FIT, MARK ONE PARTS WITH OTHERS

Lay the bottom shelf G on the middle support B, making sure the edges are even. Using the cutout as a template, mark the width of the shelf.

Align one edge of the top shelf F with the notch and mark its width by marking the opposite notch.

4. Glue the top shelf F to the middle support IN, aligning its underside with the top edges of the cutouts (photo C). Once the glue is dry, glue the bottom shelf in place. G.

Saw out two spacers 108 mm long from the scraps and, using them to align the bottom shelf, glue it to the middle support B.

The combination drill allows countersinking mounting and pilot holes in one operation without changing the tool.

5. After drilling the mounting and pilot holes, glue the left leg D to the assembled node B/F/G and secure with screws (a photoD).

Brief advice! Using glue and screws, you can fasten several parts of the base at once. Screws speed up assembly because you don't have to wait for the glue to dry completely before attaching the next piece. Cut out the back wall J and, having tried it on the opening, make sure that the upper edge is flush with the cutout of the middle support IN. Glue the back wall in place and secure with clamps.

6. Glue the sides in place I fixing them with clamps (photo E). Then fix the last support with glue and screws. IN. When the glue is dry, mark the exact length of the top bar H (photoF) and glue the part in place (Fig. 1).

Glue the sides I into the cutouts flush with the top shelf F. Then glue the left support B in place, securing it with additional screws.

To make the sides I parallel to each other along the entire length, mark the exact length of the upper bar H by attaching it to the left side of the base.

7. Take the right leg support again V/S and attach to the assembled left side of the base B/D/F-J using glue and screws (Fig. 1). Then glue to the left and right supports IN slats E fixing them with clamps. Using a sanding pad, make a rounding with a radius of 3 mm on the upper outer edge of the left plank.

Milling table drawings

Measuring and marking out project details with a tape measure and ruler can be difficult to achieve accuracy, especially if the actual plywood thickness differs from the nominal. Instead, for accuracy, it is better to use the parts themselves or scraps of material for dimensional adjustment of machines. To make precise cutouts for drawer side I in the middle support B, follow this method.

To adjust the width of the notch, make a cut in the plywood trim, lifting the disk so that a small burr remains on the edge.

When setting the depth of cut, measure the distance from the stop to the outside of the teeth of the saw blade.

Attach a wooden overlay to the head of the cross (corner) stop and cut a cutout into the part in several passes. The longitudinal stop serves as a limiter for the last pass.

Cover the lid

1. Take the lid cut earlier BUT and mark its center by connecting opposite corners with straight lines. Using a hole saw, make a 38 mm hole in the center of the cover (a photoG).

Clamp cover A to the workbench, placing a board to prevent chips. Drill a hole for the cutter in the center of the cover.

Place the plastic footplate on top of cover A and center it so that the controls of the power tool are accessible from the front.

2. Remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router you are about to install on the table and, using it as a template, mark the centers of the mounting holes on the cover (photo H). Drill holes and countersink them.

3. Cut out the planks of the lid TO. Mark the centers of the three holes on one of the slats (Fig. 2). Drill holes with a diameter of 6mm (photo I). Glue the strips to the lid BUT and secure with clamps.

Secure both K planks to the workbench by stacking them with a plank underneath to avoid chipping.

Drill a 5mm diameter hole through the pivot hole. Then make a hole with a diameter of 6 mm on the right. The depth of the holes must correspond to the length of the fastener.

4. Put the lid on A/K on the base and align the axial hole in the middle of the end of the plank E, focusing on the middle layer of plywood veneer. Then through the holes in the top bar TO drill a 5 mm hole for the axle screw and a 6 mm hole for the right locking screw (Fig. 1, photoJ). Add washers and screw a capercaillie screw 6×35 mm into the axial hole. Lift the lid and through the left locking hole, drill a hole with a diameter of 6 mm for the locking screw that fixes the lid in the raised position.

Add a longitudinal stop

1. Cut out the front wall and the base of the stop L. Mark the same semicircular cutouts (Fig. 3). Then, as described in the "Advice of the Master", carefully cut them out with a jigsaw. Glue the front wall to the base and secure with clamps.

2. Cut out spacers M and clamps N. Glue the spacers to the clamps. When the glue dries, set the stop L/L on assembled clamps M/N, align the parts and drill through holes with a diameter of 6 mm (Fig. 3, photoL).

With a board under to prevent chipping, align the L/L stop over the assembled M/N clamps. Having fixed all the parts with clamps, drill through hole, then do the same on the other side.

Adjust the crosscut to a 45° angle and saw off two gussets from both ends of the strip. Set the 90° angle again to saw off two more gussets.

3. From a plywood strip measuring 19x76x305 mm, cut out triangular scarves Oh (photo M). Glue them to the assembled stop (Fig. 3).

Craft Strong Crates

1. From 19 mm plywood, cut out two blanks measuring 100 × 254 mm for the front and back walls R. From one blank, cut out two back walls and set them aside. On the second workpiece, mark the cutouts of the front walls (Fig. 4) and carefully cut them out (see "Craftsman's Tip" below) before splitting the workpiece into two front walls.

Brief advice! It is more convenient to make cutouts before you start cutting out the front walls so that the sole of the jigsaw does not rest against the clamps pressing the workpiece.

Cutting sharp curves with a jigsaw

Even having installed a file with the smallest teeth in the electric jigsaw, it is not easy to make neat cuts with a small radius, since the file gets stuck in the cut, heats up and burns are formed.

Try it this way: before cutting out the contour cut, make frequent straight cuts from the edge of the part, as shown in the photo on the right. Then cut out the cut, leading the file with a slight indent from the contour line. As the saw blade moves forward, the small pieces formed by the straight cuts will fall out one after the other without hindering the movement of the file and giving room to maneuver if a slight change in path is required. Sand the edges of the cutout to the contour line using a cutter plastic pipe wrapped with sandpaper.

2. Cut out the side walls from 12mm plywood Q and bottoms R. Set those details aside.

3. Attach the router to the underside of the cover BUT. If the original soleplate mounting screws are too short, replace them with longer ones with the same thread.

4. Insert a 12 mm rebate cutter into the collet. Install the stop as shown in rice. 3. Cut 12x12mm seams along three sides of the front and back walls R. Replace the cutter and make 3 mm radius fillets on the edges of the semi-circular front wall cutouts.

5. Assemble the boxes by gluing the parts and fixing them with clamps (Fig. 5). From trimming 6 mm plywood, make rotary constipation S and sand at the corners with a radius of 6 mm. Drill mounting holes with counterbores and attach braces to front edge of middle post B (Fig. 1). Now insert the boxes, fill them with boxes with cutters and you can start milling.

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The milling cutter is the most frequently used tool of a self-respecting craftsman. Thanks to him, you can make the things we know with incredible ease. There are operations in carpentry that cannot be performed without this tool.

The milling cutter consists of an engine, a collet for mounting replaceable cutters, a speed controller, and a vertical bar. IN model range From any manufacturer, there are many models with different capacities. Hand router - quite versatile electrical appliance, which has a wide potential and opportunities. It becomes possible to improve the router by installing it on a horizontal surface, which will allow you to process fairly large workpieces with minimal effort.

Purpose of the milling table

Installing a router in a table or workbench allows you to achieve good results in the manufacture of many products. In the furniture industry, it is an indispensable tool. Since this process often requires trimming the edges of the canvases, making figured grooves and recesses.

Such tables can be found in large tool stores. The cost of such equipment directly depends on the functionality and material from which they are made. But even with the most minimal set of functions, but with high-quality coverage, the price for such a product is quite high. For a simple amateur who works for his pleasure in the garage, the price is unaffordable. The way out is a homemade table for the router.

Before you start buying material for the future table, you should decide on its functionality. Consider the main features of a manual milling cutter and its machine version.

Hand Router Operations

Figured or rectilinear processing of ends or edges of preparations.
Excavation of holes of various shapes for the installation of furniture fittings.
Removing a quarter of the thickness.
Grinding and cutting of workpieces.
drilling.
Finishing the cutting area.
Removal of grooves of slots, grooves.

Milling table operations

A do-it-yourself table for a router allows you to perform operations such as:

parallel fine cutting;
facing surfaces and edges of great length;
quarter sampling;
edge finishing.

From the list it becomes clear that all the same operations are performed on the milling table as with a conventional manual router, but only with greater accuracy and quality. In addition, the dimensions of the blanks are already many times larger.

Choosing a hand router

For a tiny workshop, buying a separate router is an unaffordable luxury. Therefore, a router table will be required with a quick-release router design. This means that it will work in two versions, both on the table and in manual mode. To do this, you need a quality power tool.

There are two types of manual router:

submersible;
trimming.

Their names speak of their functionality. Since the miter router is highly specialized, its further consideration will not be interesting to the reader.

By power, an electric tool is classified into:

low power - from 500 to 1100 watts;
medium power - from 1200 to 1800 watts;
high power - from 1900 to 2500 watts.

Professionals advise using low-power milling cutters for processing small workpieces, this allows you to achieve maximum convenience at work. In this case, you will have to make passes in several approaches, removing a small thickness, layer by layer. However, such routers cannot be installed on a special table. For these purposes, milling machines with a power of about 2000 watts are suitable.

Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the following features of the tool:

the maximum depth of lowering the rack;
smooth start;
spindle speed control;
dynamic brake;
maintaining rpm under load.
chip removal system.

All these parameters determine the quality of a manual router, which will be useful both in manual mode and in machine mode.

Milling table device

Any milling table consists of the following elements:

directly to the milling cutter itself;
countertops;
parallel stop;
chip removal systems;
boxes for storing spare parts and various cutters;
horizontal clamp.

Depending on the functional tasks of the milling table, it can be made in the following versions:

side table with a milling cutter;
stationary tabletop;
stationary worktop with parallel stop;
stationary worktop with rip fence, with router lift, cutter cross feed.

materials

How to make a table for a router? What should a person who decides on this business have in his arsenal? To begin with, we need a drawing of a table for a manual router. Finding him is easy. Therefore, making a table for a manual router is quite realistic. There are also many detailed tutorials and videos of local craftsmen showing off their creations. There are models that are so multifunctional that they combine, in addition to milling, drilling, grinding and cutting tables.

Almost any material is suitable for manufacturing. Basically, they use sheets of chipboard, laminated plywood or ordinary plywood with a thickness of at least 8 millimeters. You will also need wood screws with a countersunk head, aluminum corners (furniture), PVA glue.

Assembly

Consider how the simplest do-it-yourself table for a router is assembled. We will make it from laminated plywood. The size of the countertop is 400 mm wide and 400 mm long. A laminated board is perfect for a countertop. It has a number of advantages over plywood:

wear-resistant surface;
low cost;
quick replacement.

However, we decided to make a table for a manual router from laminated plywood. Carefully cut it to the intended size. The legs will be made from the same material. It retreats from the edges by 20-30 centimeters and fastens the legs with the tabletop, pre-lubricate the joints with glue and make two or three holes for tightening the screws.

We make the following technological holes in the countertop:

large round for the exit of the collet with a cutter;
parallel groove for fastening the guide;
you can make a small groove for attaching the ruler.

Parallel stop can be made from the same materials as the countertop. The stop consists of two parts, the interface runs exactly in the center of the installed cutter. They must move independently of each other. To increase the possibilities of milling, it is desirable that the parallel stop has two degrees of freedom. That is, he could tilt relative to the tabletop, and turn parallel to it. This will allow you to make products of complex shape.

Among other things, a recess with a square-shaped cover is made on the reverse side of the parallel stop, a vacuum cleaner pipe is inserted into one end. As a rule, the chip removal system is made from two sides, one from above behind the stop, the second directly near the milling cutter collet.

This is the easiest table for a do-it-yourself router. In the future, you can refine and install a lift for convenient adjustment of the departure in height and horizontal cutter.

Accessories

Since the router installed in the table is an electric tool, an external switch can be built into the table for safety. This will allow you to conveniently and safely turn the machine on and off when needed. Here you can also install additional sockets for connecting a portable lamp or a hand drill.

With sufficient free space, milling tables are made with dimensions of 1500 by 1500 millimeters and a height of one and a half meters. Get full-fledged workbenches. At the same time, sliding shelves are made in them, in which it is convenient to store various cutters and a key for changing the spindle. A large table allows you to process large sheets of plywood or other material so often used in the manufacture of furniture or doors. Such a table increases the accuracy of machined parts and reduces the percentage of defects in manufacturing.

Security

It is worth remembering that tables for wood routers are sources of increased danger. The speed of the cutter reaches 25,000 rpm. Any awkward movement will lead to irreparable consequences. Hands should be kept at the maximum safe distance from the rotating head, the cutter should be changed on a stopped and de-energized machine.

When working, you need to wear special glasses that will protect your eyes from getting small chips. The noise level during operation is quite high, you should take appropriate precautions. Keep children away from the router.

Professional carpenters treat their router table with great respect. And not by accident. After all, a convenient and properly arranged workbench is a guarantee of high productivity and an increase in the efficiency of the workflow. On sale you can find models of tables for every taste, but often their cost is so high that not every craftsman can afford such a purchase.

However, everyone can make a suitable milling table on their own, adjusting it to their personal needs and habits. And it is not necessary to buy expensive branded products or their Chinese counterparts. Having worked a little, you will not only save significantly, but most importantly - in the end you will get your own table, working at which you can quickly and much better produce exactly the joinery that you need.

The manufacturer cannot predict the needs of each potential buyer and puts basic features into its products. Many of them may simply never be needed for you, and some that you need may not be in the design of the table.

For the independent manufacture of a milling table, nothing supernatural and too expensive is required. All that is needed is an electric motor, a guide structure and the table itself, a stable bed on which equipment and accessories will be fixed. And, of course, your own drawing of the milling table.

What is a milling machine and what is its purpose

The principle of working with a manual milling tool is that the milling cutter moves along the surface of a securely fixed workpiece that needs to be processed in a certain way. The problem is that this is often not very convenient. Therefore, they resort to tricks: they fix the milling cutter itself, and move the part. The resulting design is called the "milling table".

With the help of milling tables, you can easily make figured holes, cut grooves, securely connect parts, for example, drawer walls, etc., perform edge profiling and many other operations that are only available in specialized carpentry workshops that have milling machines.

Using milling tables for a manual router, you get the opportunity to process not only wooden products, but also chipboard, plastic, MDF, make joints on spikes and tongues, make grooves and slots, chamfer and decorate profiles.

In addition, milling tables can be used as woodworking machines. To do this, a tool is fixed in a drill stand or on a workbench - and the machine is ready. Therefore, many companies began to produce milling tables in a wide range with a lot of additional accessories for them. However, a well-made table for a router is in no way inferior to branded ones, and sometimes even surpasses them.

How are milling tables arranged?

To work with a manual router on the table, you can use a regular workbench or build a special table. This table features a sturdy construction with good stability. This is necessary given the strong vibrations caused by the running router. Since the tool is attached from below, there should not be anything interfering with work under the table top. Only the router itself for the milling table and, if necessary, an elevator device that provides precise and smooth adjustment of the rise of the cutter.

The router is attached to the table with a mounting plate. The material for it must be of high quality and durable. It is best to use textolite, metal or plywood. There are usually threaded connections on the fasteners of the plastic pad on the sole of the router, which can be used to attach the router to the table top of the router table. On the surface of the future table, select the groove for the mounting plate so that the sole of the router is flush. The plate must be fixed with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads so that they do not interfere with the movement of the workpieces to be processed in the future.

The router itself is also attached to the table with countersunk screws, attaching it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes in the sole of the tool, they must be drilled by yourself. Alternatively, clamping devices can be used if there is no desire to drill the router sole.

On the milling table, be sure to install a button to turn the router on and off. It is also highly desirable to equip the table with an emergency fungus button for the safety of the person working behind it. In order for the fastening of the workpieces to be reliable, clamping devices are arranged. Convenient to use milling Rotary table. For measurement, a ruler is usually built into the surface of the table.

Types of milling tables

When starting to manufacture a milling table, you should, first of all, decide on a place for it in your workshop. It depends on what features you plan to use. This may be a lateral extension of the saw machine, that is, an aggregate table.

If you plan to only occasionally work on the router table and use it outside of the workshop, build a portable table. It can always be removed or hung on the wall, saving space.

If there is enough space in the workshop, then a stationary table for milling machine. It can be equipped with wheels and moved as needed.

Both the portable and the stationary table can be temporarily removed, but at the same time keep them constantly ready for certain operations. To do this, they are pre-configured.

Simple table design

If desired, a device of a simple design can be made of a small height, then fixed on an ordinary table. To do this, take a chipboard sheet and a simple board, which should be fixed on the sheet as a guide. The board should be of small thickness and fastened with bolts.

After that, you need to make a hole for the cutter. In a simple version, this can be finished - the resulting design will allow you to perform simple milling operations. However, if you want to make a router table for more thorough work, you will have to spend a little more time and effort.

Bed manufacturing

For any milling machine, the bed is its frame, on which the tabletop is attached from above. The base can be made of any material, the main thing is that it is strong and stable. The size of the bed is selected individually, based on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on the machine.

In the manufacture of the machine, it is desirable to make its lower part in such a way that the person standing in front of it does not rest his feet on the frame. To do this, the lowest part of the bed is deepened (like ordinary furniture) by about 10-20 centimeters.

If you plan to process door linings, then it will be appropriate to make a table 85-90 cm high, 50-55 cm deep and 150 cm wide.

For convenience, when working while standing, the height of the table is taken to be about 85-90 cm. In this case, it is desirable to use adjustable supports in the design of the table, which allow you to level the milling tables for a manual router in the presence of uneven floors or, if necessary, change the height.

Tabletop for a homemade table

Since the blanks glide well on plastic, it would be a good option to use it as a worktop for a milling table. kitchen panel from chipboard with a thickness of 26-26 cm. Its depth of 60 cm will also be convenient during operation, and the chipboard material itself will perfectly dampen the vibrations produced by the router during operation.

As a last resort, when making tables of milling machines, you can use chipboard or MDF boards with a thickness of 1.6 cm or more.

Mounting plate

Since the kitchen worktop has a rather large thickness, in order to maintain the amplitude of the overhang of the cutter, the router should be fastened to the table using a mounting plate. With its small thickness, it is highly durable and securely holds the tool without loss of cutter travel.

Using a textolite (fiberglass) mounting plate, cut out a rectangular blank 5-8 mm thick and with sides from 15 to 30 cm. Cut a hole in the center of the plate corresponding to the hole in the sole of the milling tool. The plate is attached to the surface of the table, and a milling cutter is already installed on it.

We assemble a table for a milling cutter

After the bed is made, a countertop is temporarily attached to it. A mounting plate is installed on a pre-prepared place and its outline is drawn with a pencil. Then, using a manual milling cutter with a cutter with a diameter of 5-9 mm in the tabletop, you should choose a seat for it. The plate should lie flush in it and without distortions.

The corners of the seat must be rounded with a file. The same operation must be carried out with the mounting plate - process its corners with the same radius as in the seat.

After that, through milling of the tabletop along the contours of the sole of the router should be carried out. This does not require special accuracy, but you will probably still need to select additional material from the bottom of the countertop for the dust collector and some other additional devices.

It remains to connect all the details together. Having started the router from below, we fix it on the mounting plate, then we attach the plate to the table top. We fasten the tabletop to the bed already completely.

Setting up the top clamp

As an additional safety measure and for convenience, the milling table is equipped with an upper clamp - a roller-based device made according to the drawings. When working with door linings, this is especially true, as well as when dressing overall parts. The design of the top clamp is simple.

A properly sized ball bearing will do the job of the roller. The bearing must be rigidly fixed at a certain distance from the tabletop so that it provides a reliable clamping of the workpiece from above.

Milling machine drive

If your choice is to make a simple machine, pay attention to the electric motor for it. Power is the main factor of choice. If the tree sampling is planned to be shallow, then a power of 500 W will be enough for you. So that the machine does not constantly stop and justifies your expectations, choose a motor with a power of 1100 W or more. Such a drive will allow not only to safely process any wood, but also to use various cutters.

A homemade milling table can be improved indefinitely, depending on your requirements and desires. But the most important thing at the same time is not to forget about safety and be sure to equip your machine with the means to ensure it.

Professional processing and production of wooden parts is possible only with the use of a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since the milling cutter does not move along the surface being machined, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives more opportunities for processing parts. As a result, the blanks of products are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on the appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work.

compact homemade design replace industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and unmovable.
Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively low weight. This table is easy to move.
Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Construction scheme

For self-manufacturing of countertops, MDF boards are usually used, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, light in weight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to handle and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is prone to corrosion, so it must be painted.

Milling table tops must be smooth. Often they are made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is immune to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for the longitudinal stop fasteners. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the manufactured models of countertops are made of MDF boards or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the sole of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminium. The plate for the router must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the insert protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices to level the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the work surface of the milling table.

Create convenience in selecting the diameter of the cutter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface and easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixed overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. More about self-manufacturing you can read this design.

Necessary tools and materials

Joiner's glue.
Bolts with nuts.
Screws.
MDF board and birch plywood
Electric jigsaw.
Spanners.
Sandpaper.
Ruler.
Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. Most in a simple way creating a countertop, a supporting part and parts for a milling table will use an MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table, we used:

1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the top of the table will consist of wooden parts that are sawn from a single 19mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a replacement for this material.

Saw the sheet material into fragments according to the indicated dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - emphasis base; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not match the specified parameters or be defective.

It is necessary to remove the plastic lining from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking the cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template when marking

On the largest sawn part No. 1, 90x70 cm in size, make markings for the cutter. To do this, draw a line in the middle at a distance of 235 mm from the edge, putting a mark. Then place the overlay so that the router adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be fixed with screws.

Mounting holes must match the trim

Measure the diameter of the lining and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicular to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

Fasten four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the table top with screws.

Use carpentry or epoxy as glue.

Glue the rest of the blanks and secure them with screws. Install a router on the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base

Now you need to make the supporting structure of the table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - external side stand; 2 - internal rack; 3 - rear rack; 4 - base

Cut plywood into pieces according to size.
Assemble the table structure, fixing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient to use for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar

Then you need to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut out a square from the specified material, the sides of which are equal to 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the overlay and make recesses for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the cutter to handle the details as much as possible

As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. On the countertop, draw and cut a cutout, the edges of which are processed with sandpaper.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

At the place where the cutter is attached, drill holes and widen them from the back of the tabletop with a 11 mm drill. Lay the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the sole of the router. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten it with screws.

The holes of the worktop and the plate must match

For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help further process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to cut guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stop make the process convenient

Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for fastening clamps, linings and protective devices.
To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a piece of 140x178 mm in size from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching the adapter for the vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

For a stop, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience.

For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out the details from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a clamp-comb, it is better to use maple wood. To cut the part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood fibers. The slots of the ridges are best done with a circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix details when processing small fragments

Fix the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work will be carried out. Clean all wooden elements from dust and coat with oil.

Safety

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it are possible. Before starting the router, you need to remove all tools from the surface of the countertop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the scattering of particles.

While working at the table, it is unacceptable to clean and lubricate parts, remove the protective screen and measure workpieces. Protective goggles must be worn to prevent the flying particles from getting into the eyes. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to place hands close to the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure that they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correctness of sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a do-it-yourself milling table

Thanks relatively inexpensive materials and your skill can be built compact design milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

The milling table significantly increases the productivity and efficiency of working with a manual router. It is often unprofitable to purchase a serial model of such a table for your home milling machine. It is much more economical to make a table with your own hands. It won't take long and will require very little financial costs. Any home master can cope with such a task if desired.

The question is how to make milling table with their own hands, many home craftsmen ask. This is understandable: equipment on which the router is fixed motionless, and the workpiece moves along a specially equipped desktop, in many cases is much more convenient to use. Often, when working with a manual milling cutter, the workpiece is fixed on a regular table, and all manipulations are carried out by the tool itself, which does not allow maintaining the accuracy of processing.

By using a router table when processing wood products, you can achieve results that allow you to get professional routers. With the help of such a simple device, a whole list of technological operations is performed qualitatively: cutting out figured holes and making various slots and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling edges.

The factory-made milling table device can be found in the video below. We will try to make it no worse, but in some ways even better and, which is very important, cheaper.

The milling table will give you the opportunity to process not only wooden blanks, but also products that are made of chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. With the help of such a table, you can make grooves and slots, process elements of tongue and groove joints, chamfering and creating decorative profiles.

The milling table, the manufacture of which does not require large financial costs, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. It is no coincidence that many manufacturing companies are engaged in the manufacture of milling tables and accessories for them, but for such a device you will have to pay a decent amount of money. A home-made table, if made in accordance with the drawings that we will analyze in this article, is in no way inferior to models produced under production conditions in terms of its functionality, but it will cost much less.

Milling table drawings: option number 1

Drawings of the milling table with a detailed analysis of the design of the main units and their dimensions.

Dimensions of parts Table in section Two-layer table cover Cut-out in the first layer of the table Marking the cut-out of the second layer of the table Gluing both layers Cutting the cut-out according to the marking of the second layer Rip fence drawing End plate of the fence Dust extraction nozzle Plexiglas safety shield Comb clamp and locking block

Milling table design

If desired, you can make a milling table from an ordinary workbench, but it is better to make a special design. This is explained by the fact that a machine with a cutter creates strong vibration during operation, so the table for it must be highly stable and reliable. It should also be taken into account that the milling device itself is attached to the bottom of the tabletop, so there must be enough free space under it.

To attach the router to the tabletop, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity. You can use a metal sheet, textolite or durable plywood for the manufacture of such a plate. On the soles of most models of routers there are already threaded holes, and they are needed to connect such a device to the tabletop and mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and cut threads into them, or use special clamps.

The mounting plate must be flush with the countertop, for this the appropriate dimensions are selected in the latter. It is necessary to drill several holes in the plate, some of which are necessary for connecting it to the tabletop using self-tapping screws, and others for attaching it to the router sole. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must be countersunk.

To make your turn on homemade milling machine more convenient, on the tabletop you can place a regular button, as well as a mushroom button, which will make your device even safer to use. To increase the convenience of your home machine, you can fix a long metal ruler on the table surface.

Before you start building milling table for your workshop, you need to determine the place where it will be located, as well as decide what type of milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate-type machine (the table will be located on the side of the sawing equipment, serve as its extension), compact desktop machine, stand-alone stationary equipment.

Opt for compact benchtop equipment for woodworking and other materials if you access it infrequently or often use it outside your workshop. Such an installation takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.

If the area of your workshop allows, then it is better to make a stationary milling machine, which is much more convenient to work on than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be put on wheels, with which you can easily change its location.

A simple homemade milling table. There are questions about the overall strength, but cheap and cheerful.

The simplest milling table can be made very quickly. To make a structure that is easily located on a regular desktop, you will need a chipboard sheet on which the guide element is fixed. As such a guide (and at the same time as a stop), an ordinary board of small thickness, which is attached to the table top with bolted connections, is suitable. If necessary, a second such board can be attached in parallel, which will serve as a limiting stop.

In a sheet of chipboard, it is required to make a hole to accommodate the router, which will be fixed on the countertop with two clamps. After that, your compact router table with rail can be considered ready.

Manufacturing of the bed and countertop

The bed of a home-made milling machine must have high stability and reliability, since it is on it that the main loads will fall. Structurally, it is a frame with supports on which the tabletop is fixed. As a material for the manufacture of the frame of the frame, metal profiles, chipboard, MDF, wood connected by welding can be used. It is advisable to prepare first simple drawing. It is necessary to indicate on it all structural elements and their dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.

The lower part of the bed from the side of its front part must be deepened by 100–200 mm so that nothing interferes with the feet of the operator of the milling machine. If you are going to process door linings and facade ends for them on your home-made machine, then the dimensions of the bed can be as follows: 900x500x1500 (height, depth, width).

One of the significant characteristics of the bed for a homemade milling machine is its height, on which the convenience of working on such equipment depends. According to ergonomic requirements, the most suitable height of equipment for which people work while standing is 850–900 mm. It is desirable to make the lower parts of the bed supports adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for uneven floors, but also, if necessary, to change the height of the milling table.

Make inexpensive, but very reliable work surface for a homemade milling device, you can use the old tabletop kitchen table. Such countertops are usually made of 26 or 36 mm chipboard sheet, covered with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface ensures good sliding of the workpiece, and the chipboard base perfectly dampens the vibrations that occur during the operation of the equipment. If you make a desktop for the machine with your own hands, then MDF and chipboard (LDSP) plates with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for these purposes.

Milling table drawings: option number 2

Detailed drawings of a milling table with additional drawers, which can be made from timber and plywood (or MDF). The list of parts with dimensions and recommended material of manufacture is presented in the table.

Table of table parts and their dimensions Frame Top corner of the frame Bottom corner of the frame Drawer slide rail Layout of the rails Tabletop Stop drawing Large drawer Small drawer Small drawer front Table side panels

How to make a mounting plate

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling machine has a fairly large thickness, the mounting plate for mounting the router should have a minimum thickness. This will maximize the reach of the cutting tool. It is clear that such a plate minimum thickness must be of high strength and rigidity.

The plate can be made of metal or of a material that is not inferior to it in its strength - textolite. The thickness of the textolite sheet should be in the range of 4–8 mm. According to a previously prepared drawing, a rectangular part is cut out of such a sheet, in the center of which a hole is made. The dimensions of the latter correspond to the diameter of the hole in the sole of the router.

The connection of the plate with the sole of the milling cutter and the table itself, as mentioned above, is provided by the holes made in it and the mating threaded holes in the sole of the milling cutter. Holes for fixing the plate to the table surface are made at its four corners.

The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the plate with the router must fully correspond to the holes located on the sole of the tool. In order not to be mistaken in the manufacture of the plate, it is necessary to first prepare its drawing, on which it is necessary to indicate the overall dimensions of this part, the diameters and the location of all holes on it. If desired, you can fix it on the surface of the table using clamps.

A video with a detailed story about the construction of a milling table, the functionality and convenience of which are very high, but the manufacturing complexity is also very serious. For most masters, such a table will be unnecessarily complicated, but perhaps someone will draw useful ideas when building your own equipment.

Milling table assembly

The milling table begins to be assembled by attaching the table top to the finished bed. The mounting plate is applied to the place of the countertop where it should be placed according to the drawing, its outline is drawn with a pencil. This is necessary in order to select a recess for the plate along the indicated contour, for which a manual milling cutter with a tool with a diameter of 6–10 mm is used. The size of this recess should be such that the plate lies in it at the same level with the surface of the countertop.

It will not work to make a recess with right angles with a round cutter, therefore, on the plate itself, the corners must also be rounded with a file. After fixing in the tabletop, it is necessary to make a hole in the mounting plate with dimensions corresponding to the diameter of the router sole. It is done using a straight cutter, the thickness of which should be greater than that of the countertop itself.

When the equipment requirements are low and there is no desire to get involved with homemade products, you can buy something similar to what is shown in the photo below.

To perform such an operation, you do not need a drawing, since it does not require high accuracy. On the reverse side of the tabletop, you also need to select some material, since the dust collector casing and other devices will need to be placed at the bottom of the table. To quickly perform all the above operations, you can focus on the drawings or photos posted in this article.

The final step in assembling a homemade milling table is to connect all of its structural elements. First, a milling cutter is started from the bottom of the tabletop, its sole is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the top surface of the countertop with countersunk screws, which must be completely recessed into the prepared holes. Only after performing these operations, the tabletop itself is securely fixed to the frame.

Milling table drawings: option number 3

A compact desktop milling table and a detailed analysis of its creation in the photo below.

computer model Appearance assembled Back view Front view Cutter raised, doors moved apart Cutter lowered, doors moved apart Hand router Hose from a vacuum cleaner for removing dust and chips Mounting the router and removing chips Adjusting the rise of the cutter Cutter is raised by turning the screw Adjusting the rise of the cutter router Glass precisely fitted to the worktop Router screwed to the base plate

Making the top clamp

To do homemade machine safer in operation and ensure the convenience of processing dimensional workpieces on it, it is possible to equip such equipment with an upper clamp. To create this fixture, made on the basis of a roller, it is necessary to prepare a drawing.

A ball bearing of a suitable size is often used as a roller for the pressure device. Mount such a roller on a holding device that allows you to fix it at any distance from the tabletop. With this simple universal device the processed workpiece of any thickness will be securely fixed when moving along the surface of the desktop.

In the video below, a man shows his homemade router table, which he assembled right on the balcony of his own house.

Drive for homemade milling machine

In order for a homemade milling machine to be different high performance and functionality, it is necessary to equip it with an electric drive of sufficient power. If you plan to use your machine for shallow woodworking, a 500W electric motor will suffice. However, low power drive equipment will shut down frequently, negating any savings from purchasing a weak motor.

The best choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 watts. Such an electric motor with a power ranging from 1-2 kW will allow you to use your home-made device as a real milling machine for processing wood products. In addition, you can use any type of cutter on such a machine. To equip the drive of the machine, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, on drilling machines), as well as on hand tools(drills, grinders, manual milling cutters).

You should pay attention not only to the power, but also to the speed of the electric motor. The higher this indicator, the best quality will get a cut. Electric motors, as you know, can be powered from an electrical network with a voltage of 220 and 380 V. There will be no problems with connecting the first ones, but three-phase asynchronous motors will have to be powered using a special star-delta circuit. Connecting according to this scheme will make it possible to use the electric motor at its maximum power and provide it with a smooth start. And if you directly connect such an electric motor to a 220 V network, then you will lose 30–50% of its power.

Milling table drawings: option No. 4

Analysis of another design of a do-it-yourself milling table, supplemented by a video from the author.

The tabletop is folded back The elevator is organized with a jack The tabletop, top view Movable carriage-stop Parallel stop with wings Box for connecting a vacuum cleaner (dust and chips removal) Steel plate for fastening the router Attaching the sole of the router to the plate Principle of operation of the elevator

Safety when working on a homemade milling table

When making a homemade milling machine, you should ensure the safety of working on it. First of all, it is necessary to equip the working tool itself with a protective screen. How such screens are arranged is illustrated by photos and drawings. professional equipment. An obligatory element of your homemade equipment should be an emergency stop button, the so-called fungus. It should be placed in an easily accessible place, and the start button should be fixed in a place where it will not be accidentally pressed.

Make sure that the processing area is well lit, as this is the most dangerous place in any equipment. If in the course of work you need to frequently change the overhang of the cutter, it is worth making a manual or automatic device lifting-lowering of the tool (elevator). Such an elevator will allow you to use your homemade milling equipment more efficiently and make working on it comfortable and safe. Various designs of such elevators can also be found on the Internet.

If desired and necessary, you can constantly upgrade your home-made equipment and turn it over time into a full-fledged coordinate machine with a rotary desktop.