Heating stove Medeo on liquid fuel. What types of furnaces are used for mining: manufacturing features. Features of fuel use

: 1 - gate; 2 - hinged lid; 3 - heat exchanger cover; 4 - fuel tank; 5 - heat exchanger; 6 - screen; 7 - flame pipe; 8 - hatch; 9 - front wall; 10 - dispenser; 11 - burner casing; 12 - pallet; 13 - burner; 14 - air regulator; 15 - smoke box

In areas where liquid heating fuel (HLH) or kerosene is widely used, autonomous systems heat supply using factory equipment and boilers operating on this type of fuel. The industry produces heating devices of the AOZHV type.

AOZHV devices are designed as a floor-mounted metal cabinet with hinged lids and a front wall, which provides easy access to the control elements. It consists of a burner 13, a flame pipe 7, a heat exchanger 5, a fuel tank 4, a cover 2 and a dispenser 10. A flame pipe is installed above the burner located at the bottom of the apparatus cylindrical, which serves as a combustion chamber. From above it is closed with a heat-insulating lid with a screen. The camera is attached to the heat exchanger of the device using four easily removable locks. The heat exchanger is made of two concentrically located cylinders, the annular space between which is filled with water. There are two fittings in the lower and upper parts of the heat exchanger (for supplying cold water and discharging heated water, respectively).

From the outside, the burner body is covered with a heat-insulating casing, the installation of which reduces heat loss into the surrounding space and at the same time creates a directed movement of air into the combustion zone. A slide-type air regulator is located on the side surface of the casing. As the vacuum in the apparatus increases, the cross-section of the gate is blocked by a damper, due to which the excess air coefficient changes by an insignificant amount. The amount of fuel supplied to the burner, and, consequently, its thermal load, is changed using a dispenser, which ensures the supply of a given amount of fuel to the burner or stops it if the fuel level in the dispenser body rises above the control one. The dispenser is designed in such a way that as the fuel level increases, the float in its body floats up and, through a system of levers, presses on the shut-off needle of the inlet valve, which shuts off the fuel supply to the dispenser. A fuel tank with a capacity of 16 liters, equipped with a float-type level indicator, is mounted in the front part of the device. The fuel supply in the tank is sufficient for continuous operation of the device for 15 hours at normal load. The temperature in the tank should not exceed the flash point, therefore, to avoid overheating, the tank is separated from the heat exchanger by a screen.

On the rear wall of the water jacket of the heat exchanger there is a smoke box, in the upper part of which a gate is installed, which serves to change the direction of movement of fuel combustion products. A tray is installed at the bottom of the device to collect spilled fuel. The device is equipped with an evaporative burner with natural air suction. The combustion products, leaving the flame pipe, transfer heat to the water in the heat exchanger, after which they are discharged into the chimney, and the heated water enters the building's water heating system. During the period of ignition of the apparatus, when the vacuum in it is insignificant, the smoke duct damper (to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the smoke duct) is set to the “Open” position, and the combustion products through the smoke duct enter directly into the chimney. After the device enters the mode (heating water to a temperature of 85-90°C), the gate is set to the “Closed” position. In this case, the combustion products pass through the annular gap between the flame pipe and the water jacket of the heat exchanger.

The device has satisfactory fuel combustion quality. The content of carbon monoxide in fuel combustion products is 0.005-0.02%, which does not exceed the maximum permissible standards for devices of this type. Basic technical specifications devices of type AOZHV are given in the table.

Technical characteristics of heat generators type AOZHV

The exhaust furnace is deservedly considered a practical and economical heating device. It allows you to obtain thermal energy from “waste” fuel, i.e. such fuels and lubricants that can no longer be used for their intended purpose. The simplicity of the design allows you to build a fairly effective installation with your own hands, without purchasing expensive parts. To do this, it is enough to have basic skills in welding and plumbing.

The waste furnace got its name because it burns liquid flammable substances, which include fuels and lubricants remaining after use. Such materials must be recycled, because contaminated and cannot be further used for cars, machines and other equipment.

The problem with direct combustion of these liquids is the release of significant amounts of smoke and substances hazardous to human health. The furnace installation under consideration helps solve it due to a two-stage technological scheme. In the furnace, the liquid is brought only to active evaporation, excluding open combustion with the release of smoke, and thermal energy produced by burning the released gases (vapors).

This technology makes it possible to assemble furnaces that are effective heating units. Thus, a stove with a fuel consumption of 2.2-2.4 l/h is comparable in heating power to electric heaters of 13-15 kW.

Operating principle

The two-stage technology used in the exhaust furnaces is based on a two-chamber plant design. The first stage is carried out in an evaporation (pyrolysis) chamber, where the flammable liquid is heated to a high temperature sufficient for the rapid evaporation of flammable gases. In this chamber, the access of air is limited, which prevents open combustion of the waste from occurring.

The next stage, which takes place in the combustion chamber, is the combustion of the released gases by actively mixing them with oxygen in the air.

During the combustion of the air-gas mixture, a large amount of thermal energy is released. The mixture burns almost completely, which ensures high efficiency installations and low smoke emission. These abilities make it possible to use devices for heating small rooms in the cold season, drying wet clothes, quickly heating or preparing food or tea. Especially wide application they are found in temporary premises (cabins, trailers, etc.).

Furnaces used for mining can be stationary - with brick walls, if there is a constant and significant amount of fuel. However, the most common option is a small, portable unit made of metal. It can be installed as needed anywhere.

The described technology is implemented as follows: the evaporation chamber is installed in the lower part, and here the liquid must be heated to the desired temperature. A “smoldering” mode is also maintained, which results in active release of gases. It is important to prevent their premature combustion; for this purpose, access to the air chamber is limited. It cannot be completely excluded, because it is needed to “smolder” the fuel, but a large amount of it will cause a fire. Air supply regulation is provided by dampers.

The combustible gas, in full accordance with physical laws, rises up and enters the combustion chamber. As it moves, it is enriched with air supplied through the perforated walls. The oxygen-saturated combustible mixture ignites in the combustion chamber, at the entrance of which direct ignition is used. A constantly incoming flow maintains combustion in the desired mode.

Despite the almost complete combustion of gases, the stoves in question must be equipped with a chimney, leading it outside the room. Firstly, it ensures the removal of unburned residues, which eliminates even slight smoke. Secondly, reliable draft is created for the flow of combustible gases into the combustion chamber and air flow to enrich the mixture.

Types of installations

Furnace designs have several varieties. According to the mechanism of operation of the evaporation chamber, installations are divided into 2 main types:

Pyrolysis oven. The process of pyrolysis involves the decomposition of a substance, releasing gas when heated. In such chambers, fuel “smoldering” is maintained with minimal air access. This installation It has a simple design, but as it is used, heavy hydrocarbon fractions quickly settle on the walls of the chamber and are unable to rise upward. This phenomenon requires frequent cleaning of the unit. In addition, in pyrolysis furnaces it is almost impossible to regulate the heating temperature of the liquid.
Devices with drip technology or chambers with turbo burners. Gasification is achieved by spraying waste onto elements heated to a high temperature. The fuel is supplied into the chamber through a nozzle, and when it hits the hot metal, it actively evaporates. With this technology, too contaminated mining turns out to be ineffective. The advantage is the ability to regulate the heating of the element and the fuel supply rate.

Homemade stoves vary in the materials used. Common options are structures made of metal sheets, metal pipes and gas cylinders. In addition, differences may arise based on the principle of air supply - natural or forced (blowing) flow.

Positive and negative sides

An important reason for the use of furnaces in mining, where many different heating devices are available, is the nature of the fuel used. Waste fuels and lubricants cause a lot of trouble - problems with disposal, the risk of environmental pollution, and an increased risk of fire. Burning such waste in a furnace eliminates these problems and provides heat.

Additional advantages of waste furnaces are also highlighted:

structural simplicity, which makes it possible to make the installation in a home workshop with your own hands from inexpensive or improvised materials;
high efficiency of the installation, ensured by almost complete combustion of fuel with the release large quantity heat;
possibility of using any heavy hydrocarbon liquid;
The mobility of the device allows it to be used in any unequipped room.

The decision to use the furnaces in question must be made taking into account the availability and certain difficulties and shortcomings in their design and operation. It is important to understand that the fuel used can severely pollute the room if the storage conditions and filling into the working chamber are violated. To avoid this, a careful approach is required in arranging the storage area for flammable substances. In addition, to eliminate the harmful effects of stored waste, the room must be equipped with reliable exhaust and forced ventilation.

Certain inconveniences are caused by the following factors:

the presence of a chimney that must be removed from the room to a height of more than 3 m;
the need for frequent cleaning of the evaporation chamber, and the frequency increases significantly if the fuel is heavily contaminated;
humming noise during intensive work, which increases in cold weather, increasing the noise level.

If the stove is assembled correctly, and its operation and fuel storage are carried out in compliance with the simplest requirements, then the installation can be safely classified as a fireproof, highly efficient unit. It is appreciated by car enthusiasts who use it to warm themselves up in a cold garage, as well as by road crews laying roads far from populated areas.

Features of fuel use

To fire the stove, you can use any oily, flammable liquid - technical or vegetable oils. Motor oil, industrial oil and transmission oil are used. In large catering establishments, you can borrow used sunflower oil, for example.

gasoline, kerosene, solvents, alcohols and other liquids that can ignite quickly;
oils containing alcohol or other impurities that could cause an explosive situation in the evaporation chamber.

When operating furnaces with drip fuel supply, do not use oil containing water and large amounts of dirt. It is undesirable to use waste stored at severe sub-zero temperatures.

Excessively dirty waste can quickly clog the nozzle channel and settle on the chamber walls. In order to reduce the need to clean the installation, it is recommended to fill the stove with fuel after coarse filtering, ideally to ensure its more complete cleaning. You can use purchased waste that has undergone primary purification. For reference, its price is significantly lower than diesel fuel (2 or more times).

Principles for assembling homemade installations

A homemade stove can be assembled for a summer house, workshop, garage, or greenhouse. It can be used for heating, providing hot water, cooking. When making such installations with your own hands, preference is given to cheap but durable materials and improvised means. Special attention deserve structures made of pipes, metal sheets and a gas cylinder.

Homemade pipe stove

One of the simplest furnace structures is assembled using steel pipes of different diameters. Work on its production is carried out in a certain order.

Formation of the furnace body. It is made from a pipe with a diameter of 22-25 cm, with a wall thickness of more than 8 mm. Length is 77-82 cm. Step-by-step production provides:

A bottom is welded to the bottom of the pipe, which is cut from a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 4 mm. The diameter of the strictly circle strictly corresponds to the size of the pipe.
The legs of the device are attached to the bottom by welding. The best option- bolt with a diameter of 16-20 mm, because This system allows you to adjust the height and evenness of the installation. A nut is welded to the bottom surface of the bottom, into which the bolt is screwed. Usually 4 legs are mounted.
At a height of 67-73 cm from the bottom of the housing, an inspection window is cut into the pipe wall. Its size is not standardized, but should allow combustion to be controlled. The window must be closed with a door that is cut out of the pipe. It is mounted on a hinge and sealed with an asbestos gasket (cord).
Opposite the inspection window, a hole is made to drain the chimney, which is located 10-13 cm higher from the bottom. A pipe for connecting the chimney pipe or the pipe itself is welded. Its diameter is 11-12 cm, and the wall thickness is 2.5-4 mm.

The cover is installed in the following order:

The base of the lid in the shape of a circle is cut from a steel sheet, 3-5 mm thick. Its diameter should exceed the outer diameter of the case by 17-19 mm.
A bead is made along the edge from a metal strip, 32-38 mm wide. Strip thickness - 2.5-3.5 mm.
Holes are cut out on the lid. In the center of the circle there is a hole with a diameter of 87-90 mm, intended for installing the inner pipe. A viewing window is made at a distance from the center. The hole for it has a diameter of about 2 cm. This hole is closed with its own lid.

Installation of the inner pipe for supplying fuel and air. For this, a steel pipe with a diameter of 87-90 mm, with walls of 2.5-3.5 mm is used. Length is 74-77 cm. Holes are drilled in it according to the following pattern:

9 holes, 5-6 mm in diameter, at a distance of 47-52 mm from the cut, evenly spaced in a circle;
2 rows of 8 holes, 4-4.5 cm in diameter, at a distance of 48-50 mm from the previous holes;
a row of 9 holes, 32-33 mm in diameter, retreating 45 mm from the second perforation.

At the end of the pipe, where the countdown for drilling begins, grooves are cut, 1.6-1.8 mm wide and about 28-32 mm deep. A total of 9 slits are made. At the second end of the pipe, at a distance of 7-9 cm from the cut, a hole with a diameter of 11-13 mm is drilled. The fuel supply pipe is inserted here. For this, a tube with a diameter of 10-13 mm and a wall thickness of about 1 mm is used. It is lowered down along the inner pipe so that the end of the tube is flush with the bottom of the pipe.
Securing the inner tube. It is welded to the edges of the central hole of the lid and is positioned strictly vertically. The end of the pipe should be at a distance of 11.5-12.5 cm from the bottom of the housing.
Making a fuel bowl. Its body is made of steel pipe, with a diameter of 14-15 cm and a wall thickness of at least 3.5 mm. A section 30-37 mm long is cut off. A bottom made of steel sheet, 2.5-3 mm thick, is welded from below. The bottom diameter is 21-23 cm. The bowl body is welded strictly in the center of the bottom.
Complete assembly of the device. The fuel bowl (the container in which the waste is burned) is installed in the lower part of the housing, at a distance of 65-72 mm from the bottom. It should be clearly visible from the viewing window on the side of the housing. Next, the lid with the inner pipe is tightly fitted. A chimney pipe with a diameter of 12-13 cm and a wall thickness of 2.5-3.5 mm is connected to the chimney branch pipe. The height of the pipe varies between 3-5 m. When installing a stove, it is best to route the chimney through the roof.

This design ensures the operation of the furnace in the drip mode of fuel supply. When installing it, it is necessary to strictly monitor the stability of the device and the vertical position of the housing.

Making a device from a gas cylinder

Ordinary gas cylinder is the ideal housing for homemade stove- both in size and strength. A 50 liter cylinder with a wall thickness of 12-16 mm is best suited. Manufacturing the device includes the following steps:

Thoroughly clean the container from condensation and rinse it with water.
Install the cylinder vertically, digging into the ground to ensure a stable position. Filling the entire volume with water.
Using a grinder, a horizontal cut is made at the top of the cylinder, through which part of the water located above it flows out. The cut completes the cutting of the upper part of the cylinder. The cut piece is subsequently used as a lid, and therefore the operation should be carried out carefully.
The water pours out and the cylinder turns over. 3-4 legs, 18-23 cm high, are welded to its bottom.

Further work is carried out similarly to the manufacture of a furnace from pipes. A chimney hole and an inspection window are cut out in the cylinder. An internal pipe with a diameter of 10-12 cm, with perforation in the lower part, is mounted on the lid, and an inspection hole is drilled. The fuel supply pipe is lowered. A bowl for burning the waste is installed.

What tool will you need?

To make and install a homemade furnace during mining, you should take care of the tools in advance. You will need the following:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
electric drill;
files of different sizes and shapes;
wrenches;
pliers;
vice;
hacksaw for metal;
chisel;
hammer;
sledgehammer;
screwdriver;
metal scissors;
metal brush.

Any work requires accurate measurements and correct markings. To do this you need the following equipment: calipers, tape measure, metal ruler, level, plumb line, square.

The stove, which uses waste oil as fuel, is widely used to heat utility rooms, sheds and garages. With the right approach, you can make a highly efficient device with your own hands that will provide heat, hot water, and will provide the opportunity to prepare a hot meal. The design of the stove is quite simple, and if you take into account the recommendations of experts, anyone can assemble it at minimal cost.

Expensive diesel fuel is not the best energy carrier for heating a home, because the price of firewood and natural gas. But when you need to quickly organize temporary heating of residential premises, garages or cottages, diesel fuel becomes simply irreplaceable. All you need to do is buy a small liquid fuel heater, fill it up and light it. An autonomous heat gun or a miracle diesel stove is well suited for this purpose. An alternative solution is a diesel stove made with your own hands from steel pipes and scraps of metal. There are many options, but we will choose the most popular ones and discuss their advantages and disadvantages.

Types of autonomous diesel fuel heaters

To begin with, we list all the types of heating devices that use liquid fuel and are most often used by users:

mini-ovens “Solyarogaz” with a capacity of 1.8-5 kW from the Russian brand Savo and their analogues;
various diesel fuel heaters with forced air supply, also known as heat guns;
a simple direct combustion stove for a garage is one of the most popular home-made designs;
stove - dropper.

Diesel industrial air heater

Note. The first 2 types of heaters on diesel fuel are produced in factories, they can be purchased in finished form. The remaining two heaters function equally well on diesel fuel and waste oil, but they must be made independently.

Now we will consider the heating units separately and identify all the positive and negative aspects of their operation.

Review of the miracle diesel stove from Savo

Where such a catchy name came from is unknown. Most likely, it was invented by marketers promoting this product on the market. In fact, the miracle stove, running on diesel fuel and kerosene, is a modernized descendant of kerosene gas, which was used during USSR times for cooking. The operating principle is as follows:

After opening the control valve, the fuel from the tank independently flows into the bowl, where the ends of two fabric wicks are immersed.
Then the law of capillary rise of liquid operates, due to which the wicks wound on the burner are thoroughly saturated with diesel fuel.
2-3 minutes after impregnation, the burner is ignited with matches or a lighter. The operating mode is reached within 10 minutes.
To turn off the diesel burner, you must close the fuel valve. The heating stove will completely go out in 6-10 minutes, when the diesel fuel that has soaked the wicks burns out.

The design and principle of operation of the miracle furnace burner

For reference. According to the operating instructions for this diesel fuel stove, the fuel supply valve must be closed during heating to prevent an open flame. When upper part The burner will glow red and the valve will open again by 2-3 turns.

Heating devices "Solyarogaz" (Ukrainian equivalent - "Motor Sich") can boast the following real advantages:

Reasonable price. Mini-stove PO-1.8 (power 1.8 kW) retail costs about 37 USD. e., and the price of a 5-kilowatt heater is 95 USD. e.
Mobility due to small dimensions and low weight. The weight of the same 1.8 kW diesel-kerosene heating stove is 5.6 kg.
Economical. If you believe the passport, then miracle diesel stoves with a heat output of 1.8-2.5 kW consume about 200 ml of diesel fuel in 1 hour. Judging by the reviews, real fuel consumption is practically no different from the rated one.
Again, judging by user reviews (read in the next section), the stove does an excellent job of heating small rooms, even poorly insulated ones.
The product is intended not only for heating, but also for cooking (a steel mesh is installed above the burner).

Miracle stove at work

Let's move on to a few fly in the ointment. The first is inertia, which manifests itself during ignition, shutdown and adjustment of combustion intensity. As noted above, warming up and extinguishing the burner takes 6-10 minutes, and a change in the flame is observed 20-35 seconds after turning the tap, so you need to get used to the stove.

The second important disadvantage of a diesel miracle stove is the release of combustion products directly into the room. Hence the requirement for instructions on organization supply and exhaust ventilation in a heated room. The minimum amount of exhaust and supply air is stated at 20 m³/h. Will provide so much natural ventilation provided that the hood works well.

Note. The smoke as such from the heater is invisible, but with prolonged use indoors, people experienced headaches and poor health.

The next disadvantage of mini-stoves using diesel fuel stems from the previous one. The fact is that the existing ventilation carries some of the generated heat outside, which reduces the efficiency of the heater. True, for a dacha or garage this nuance does not play a big role, unlike residential premises. And the last point: the unit emits acrid smoke when igniting and extinguishing, so it is better to perform these operations outdoors.

Mini heater on video

Real user reviews about Solarogaz stoves

It must be admitted that the overwhelming majority of reviews about the miracle of the stove are positive, although there are also negative aspects:

Yaroslav, Ryazan, Russian Federation.

I purchased a PO-2.5 Savo diesel device to heat my garage. Before the frost outside was minus 10 degrees, working in the garage became much more comfortable, although the stove does not warm up the entire volume of the room. About one and a half to two meters around you. Considering its mobility, this is an acceptable option. There is no smoke, but there is a slight smell and my head ache slightly.

Source: https://www.drive2.ru/b/288230376152117652/

Sergey, Stary Oskol, Russian Federation.

I bought an Aeroheat HS S2600 diesel fuel heater (analogous to a miracle stove) for a 6 x 4 x 2.5 m garage. While there is no frost, the room is warm, but at minus temperatures it will no longer cope. In principle, the stove is not bad, it burns one and a half liters of kerosene in 5 hours, and when ignited it only smokes a little. Food can be prepared.

Lomaster, Chelyabinsk, Russian Federation.

I have been using this oven for 4 months now. country house 24 m², I only use diesel. It feels like it heats better than a 2.5 kW electric heater. Among the minuses, I will note the soot at the beginning of combustion and the smell of diesel fuel. Pros - it is cheaper to heat than with electricity and the ability to cook and warm up food. In 10 hours it consumes only 2.5 liters, which is acceptable. True, in severe frosts I still switch to wood, the heater does not work.

Source: https://www.drive2.ru/communities/288230376151718545/forum/307544

Hobonod, Moscow.

It warms up perfectly, but is capricious - it smokes and smells, so you can only light it outside. It is my copy that does not digest when it is placed crookedly. You need to install it on a horizontal surface, then everything is ok. There is nothing written about this in the passport.

Source: http://www.mastergrad.com/forums/t26808-solyarogaz-obogreet-ili-net/

After studying the small part of the reviews presented here, a conclusion suggests itself: in general, a miracle stove that burns diesel fuel is an acceptable option, but you need to get used to using it. There is also a contraindication: the heater is not suitable for heating residential premises, except as a last resort.

About diesel heat guns

Heating units of this type are designed to heat large areas (from 30 m²) in all weather conditions. A diesel stove is a warm air blower in the form of a pipe mounted on wheels for ease of movement. A turbine built at the end of this pipe is responsible for creating the air flow. The burner for the stove, which burns diesel fuel, is placed inside the combustion chamber and is washed with air from all sides. There are 2 types of heat guns:

Directly heated. This means that the air passing through the pipe is heated by the walls of the chamber and mixed with the combustion products coming out from there, and then the mixture of gases enters the room. The heater is very efficient, but is not suitable for use in confined spaces.
With indirect heating. The design is similar to the first, but the exhaust gases are not mixed with the air flow and are directed through a separate channel into the chimney, as shown in the diagram. The heater loses efficiency, since part of the heat is lost along with combustion products, but it is absolutely safe and is capable of heating living spaces.

Diagram of operation of a diesel gun with direct heating of the air flow

Note. Due to their design, heat guns are dependent on the supply of electricity. Without it, the fan and automatic heater will not turn on.

Let us list the main advantages of diesel-fired air stoves:

the ability to heat large areas, for which models with a power of 10 to 100 kW are produced;
acceptable diesel consumption;
mobility;
maintaining the required air temperature in the room;
automatic safety system that turns off the pump and fuel supply to the nozzle in case of overheating, power outage and other emergency situations;
high speed of heating the entire volume of the room.

Operating principle of a diesel fuel air heater with a chimney

An example regarding fuel consumption. The well-known manufacturer of climate control equipment Ballu claims the following indicators: a 20 kW unit consumes 1.6 kg/h of diesel fuel (about 2 l), 30 kW – 2.4 kg/h (up to 3 l), and a 50 kW heater “eats” 4 kg/h diesel fuel (up to 5 l).

The main disadvantage of powerful diesel heaters is their high cost. Take products from the same brand Ballu, which is included in the middle price category: a direct heating installation with a power of 10 kW will cost 270 USD. e., and indirect at 20 kW - as much as 590 cu. e.

Diesel stove with forced air - inside view

The second important disadvantage relates to direct heating units that emit flue gases along with the air. This feature greatly limits the scope of application air heaters of this type. It is possible to safely use a heat gun only in industrial or technical premises with forced ventilation or at construction sites for local heating.

Advice. There is a way to reduce the cost of installing a diesel heat gun in your country house or garage. You need to get a small-sized diesel fuel stove, used in trucks, and modify it a little. A unit from the Webasto brand will be suitable (it’s better to look for a disassembly one, a new one is very expensive) or the Soviet analogue OV-65.

Homemade miracle oven and dropper

The design of this homemade garage diesel stove has long been known to everyone: 2 round or square tanks are connected to each other by a vertical pipe with holes for supplying secondary air. We decided to include it in this material due to the popularity of this heater. Despite all the shortcomings, the stove continues to be used by a lot of people - owners of garages and country houses.

For reference. The heater received the name “miracle furnace” due to its ability to cause a fire when burning waste into which water got in. The unit begins to shoot flaming drops of oil in all directions through the holes in the afterburner pipe. When running on pure diesel fuel, the disadvantage does not appear.

A self-made mini-furnace for exhaust and diesel fuel operates thanks to the natural draft of the chimney according to the following algorithm:

The lower tank is half filled with liquid fuel, which is ignited through a hole with an air damper.
After warming up, the diesel fuel actively evaporates, mixes in the pipe with secondary air and burns out in the upper tank.
Combustion products are discharged outside through the chimney.

Heater design running on waste oil and diesel

This diesel furnace can be welded according to the drawing by anyone literally on their knees, if only scraps of metal and pipes were at hand. This is the only advantage of the heater, contrasted with a bunch of disadvantages:

the chimney does not prevent exhaust gases from entering the room, so the stove mercilessly smokes and stinks during operation;
poor heating efficiency with appalling liquid fuel consumption - up to 2 l/hour;
The unit is a fire hazard; you simply cannot leave it unattended; in addition, you must keep a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher nearby.

This is what a do-it-yourself drip stove looks like. A membrane expansion tank is used as a fuel reservoir.

A homemade drip-type stove is not so popular due to its more complex device. The heater body is made of a vertically standing steel pipe, to which the bottom and lid are welded. Inside there is an afterburner made of a pipe of smaller diameter, and under it there is a bowl for fuel. Exhaust or diesel fuel is fed into it by gravity or through a pump, and air is pumped into the afterburner by a fan. The design of a dropper stove operating on diesel fuel is shown in the drawing:

The heater consumes 200-300 grams of fuel in 1 hour, warms up the room well and practically does not smoke, since all gases are directed into the chimney. These are advantages, but the disadvantage is that it depends on electricity and is tied to one place where the chimney is located. More about the principle of operation of the dropper is said in.

Comment. Despite the odors of diesel fuel, the heater can be adapted to heat a house if it is enclosed in a water jacket and thus converted into a boiler connected to a water system. How this is implemented in a garage environment is described in the video:

Of all the diesel stoves, only one is clearly suitable for heating residential premises - an indirect heating heat gun. Heating devices of the Solarogas type can be used as a temporary option if the room has ventilation.
For a garage, box or cottage, it is better to make drip heaters with your own hands. Despite its popularity, we cannot advise you on a homemade miracle stove. This unit is too dangerous and has burned down more than one garage during its existence.
A diesel heat gun is the only right solution when you need to heat a large area in a building where there are no other energy sources.
If a drip-type stove is converted into a boiler and connected to a water heating system, then it can be used to heat a residential building. The heat source is taken out into the annex or separately standing building, where diesel smells won’t bother anyone.

You must understand that all liquid fuel heaters require periodic cleaning to remove soot, which heavily covers internal surfaces combustion chambers and smoke channels. The exception is a factory mini-stove using diesel fuel, where you will have to change the burnt-out wicks.

Diesel fuel (solar oil, diesel fuel, diesel fuel; simply diesel) has a high calorific value to cost ratio and transportability, and in terms of fire hazard it is closer to vegetable oils and heavy petroleum products than to light ones. Therefore, diesel fuel stoves are widely used wherever there is no local fuel or the ability to procure it. Another advantage of a diesel stove (diesel stove) is that it quickly reaches full speed without supercharging. In fact, a diesel stove is the only energy-independent means to quickly warm up an uninsulated, very cold room.

However, making a fairly safe diesel stove with your own hands requires much more care and deeper knowledge of the matter than using heavy liquid fuel, eg. In terms of volatility (evaporation), diesel fuel is still closer to light petroleum products. Under no circumstances should you burn diesel in a pressure-free burner (simply in a bath) with the air supply regulated by a throttle, like oil: the fuel may boil over the entire mass and result in an explosion.

The authors of popular RuNet guides on this topic seem to be more knowledgeable about copying from each other than about heating engineering. The absurdity of the errors reaches a kind of “medical burner” (???). It is possible (but not necessary) to make a feeding reservoir for a furnace with a dropper from a medical heating pad. But if anyone knows what a “medical burner” is, it’s not doctors. This article describes what is possible and how to properly make a diesel fuel stove with your own hands.

Note: Non-volatile stoves that can quickly reach maximum mode and heat uninsulated rooms are most often called miracle stoves. Another meaning of the name miracle stove is multi-fuel, incl. on solid, liquid fuel and gas. Another one is an autonomous furnace using diesel fuel, waste fuel and, possibly, kerosene. In this publication, depending on the context, it is possible to use the term “miracle oven” in any of the indicated senses.

About security

Even the “correct” homemade diesel stove from the point of view of the rules fire safety does not exist - PPB directly prohibit the use of homemade heating devices using liquid and gaseous fuels. The very presence of such a unit in household makes any insurance against fire, explosion and poisoning of volatile substances void, and its owner and possibly the manufacturer, liable for all consequences of any accident due to the stove. Therefore, the task of making a homemade diesel stove comes down to purely technical measures to ensure its safety; the formal side is entirely your risk.

Diesel fuel vapors should be mentioned in more detail. They're not just smelly, they're toxic, carcinogenic, and will even saturate old concrete. Therefore, for residential premises, storage food products, greenhouses, premises for keeping livestock and poultry, only an industrial diesel stove certified for these operating conditions is clearly suitable, and not a stationary one for temporary use.

Stationary liquid fuel heating devices for individual homes are produced and can be manufactured independently, taking into account - see above. But in this case they must be double-circuit, i.e. transfer heat from fuel combustion to the coolant, and be located in a fireproof extension with a separate, i.e. from the street, entrance.

Which one should I do?

Keeping in mind safety requirements, a homemade diesel stove can, in principle, be built under one of the traces. schemes:

Double-circuit gas-air;
Wick;
Drip.

Gun

A double-circuit gas-air heating stove is nothing more than a heat gun or auto-stove, depending on the power. Its advantage is instant heating of the room; In this sense, the heat gun is the most wonderful of the miracle stoves. How it works and how to make a heat gun for a garage from parts and assemblies of unusable devices of the same kind, see the video:

Video: diesel/exhaust heater gun

In addition to technological complexity (you need turned, milled and stamped parts made of heat-resistant materials) and energy dependence (for supercharging and protective and control electronics, without which the heat gun does not work at all), a very serious flaw of heat guns is gluttony. The secondary coolant is air, its heat capacity and thermal conductivity are negligible, so the heat exchanger must be heated strongly and internal heat loss is large. Fuel consumption of the heat gun is approx. 1.15 l/hour per 10 kW thermal power. To warm up an ordinary garage, 3-5 liters of solarium are consumed. At current prices for diesel fuel, such heat is somehow not very comfortable. The only acceptable area for using a heat gun in everyday life is to warm up an unheated garage before leaving, in order to have time to bring it back warm from recharging and install the battery.

Wick

The design of a wick furnace using liquid fuel is similar to the well-known kerosene gas, on the left and in the middle in Fig. Currently, household heating and cooking stoves Solarogas (right) are also produced; Their main fuel is diesel, but they can also run on kerosene, the consumption of which will be slightly higher than in kerosene gas.

Liquid fuel wick stoves can be used occasionally for cooking in ventilated areas, but they are not suitable as stationary cooking stoves - the food becomes flammable. Their main disadvantages are, firstly, technological complexity. Surprised? But the parts of these crude pieces of iron must actually be made very precisely from high-quality materials, otherwise the wick furnace becomes a fire and explosion hazard. Secondly, limited thermal output: technically approx. 5 kW; for safety 2.5-3 kW.

Both of these disadvantages are caused by the same circumstance - in wick devices with a wet wick, the heat release with increasing size of the unit increases faster than the heat transfer. The kerogas boiler will immediately explode from overheating. But this also leads to an important consequence for home-made people: a small wick stove for a summer cottage, camping and fishing can be made completely safe, as far as is generally possible for liquid fuel appliances. Especially if you use a dry wick, i.e. Make a kerosene stove instead of kerosene gas. With a fuel tank volume of up to 0.5-0.7 liters, it will be possible to fill it with any flammable liquid, except ether, from alcohol and gasoline to rapeseed oil.

Drawings and recommendations for making a homemade mini-primus are given in Fig. below. The tank can be soldered from brass of the same thickness; solder - with a melting point of 220 degrees: POS-10, POS-30, POS-40, POS-90. The optimal nozzle diameter for diesel fuel and kerosene is 0.6 mm. With a tank capacity of up to 0.2 liters, you can make an alcohol lamp in the same way, which is more economical and safe than with a wet wick, see fig. right; nozzle – 0.8-1.0 mm.

Note: The diameter of the primus nozzle depends inversely more on the calorific value (energy intensity) of the fuel than on its fluidity. The more heat the fuel generates, the narrower the nozzle should be.

Droppers

The best option for a homemade diesel engine heating device– diesel fuel drip stove:

Economical: fuel consumption in a sufficiently sophisticated design is less than 0.6 l/hour per 10 kW of thermal power.
For thermal power up to 20 kW (which is enough for heating small house or a large greenhouse/poultry house/livestock barn) can be structurally and technologically completed entirely at home.
It is possible to modify any potbelly stove for drip combustion of diesel, and the possibility of starting it on solid fuel remains.
Drip potbelly stove with diesel fuel, acc. technical design (see below) can be used to heat greenhouses, poultry houses, pigsties, cowsheds, etc.
Also, with drip combustion of diesel fuel, it is possible to build a miracle stove using diesel fuel and exhaust gas for heating utility rooms.

Operating principle

In a dropper stove, fuel drips into a bath with a hot, fairly massive evaporator. It heats up when the stove starts with a burning wick (rag, newspaper, toilet paper), soaked in any flammable liquid. When the wick is almost burnt out, but there are still tongues of flame, let out some drops. Drops of fuel falling on the evaporator boil, the vapors ignite, maintaining its temperature, and completely burn in the afterburner, releasing useful heat.

Design examples

Potbelly stove

The easiest way is to convert a potbelly stove for diesel fuel. Thermal power will be up to 5-7 kW with a fuel consumption of 300-500 ml/hour. Fuel equipment of the same design can be used practically without changes in more powerful heating boilers on diesel, as well as for starting on exhaust and kerosene.

The modification scheme for diesel fuel is shown in Fig. below. Deflectors prevent fuel vapors from cooling before they burn. By the way, deflectors increase the efficiency of the stove when running on wood and coal. The height of the side of the flame bowl is 60-80 mm; its capacity should not be less than the capacity of the feeding reservoir (see below). The operation of a liquid fuel stove, so to speak, is reversed: air enters the wide open door of the firebox; the vent is closed. Otherwise, the stove becomes voracious and quickly becomes coked (overgrown with soot).

Power, starting and running

A diesel fuel dropper stove will be quite safe and will show all its advantages only if the fuel equipment is assembled and adjusted correctly. The drip furnace must be fed in a 2-stage manner, with a buffer feed reservoir. The reason is a rather strong dependence of the drop frequency on the outside temperature and pressure in the supply pipeline. The pressure, in turn, is determined by the level of fuel in the tank or the degree of its pressurization. It dripped less often - the evaporator cooled down, the stove went out, the bowl overflowed and fuel flowed out. It drips more often - the drops do not have time to evaporate, there is a smoky flame in the bowl, the stove is wasting fuel in vain. If there is no nutrient reservoir, it can lead to disaster: a flaming stream will flow from the stove. Therefore, manufacturing and launching liquid fuel stoves with single-stage power supply is an activity for rabid extreme sports enthusiasts or those who have nothing else to lose and really want to sleep.

Both capillaries (see figure) are made of red copper. The point here is the wettability of the metal with fuel: it either will not leak through a narrow tube made of another material, or the power system will not be able to be adjusted. Setting up begins with selecting the length of the safety capillary dia. 1.5 mm. The volume of the nutrient reservoir is required 0.25-0.5 l; its height is 7-12 cm. The length of the safety capillary is adjusted so that when the nutrient reservoir is filled to the top, the drop frequency is 25-30 drops per 10 s.

Next, adjust the nutrient capillary to dia. 0.6 mm; the fuel in the tank must be filled to full pressure H. With the needle valve fully open and the minimum permissible outside temperature, the frequency of drops from the fuel line into the feed tank should be 2-3 drops per 10 s less. The same drop frequency is set using a needle tap when starting the furnace at a higher outside temperature.

To start the furnace, a burning wick is placed in the fire bowl (see above). When it burns out as it should, pour fuel into the nutrient reservoir and let drops flow from the fuel line. The stove will be running for 4-5 hours; if shorter heating time is required, close the needle valve. Only from the nutrient reservoir the furnace operation will last 1-1.5 hours.

Note: For heating rooms for pets and greenhouses with a drip stove, sauna stoves with a heater are well suited, see fig. The fuel tunnel and nutrient reservoir are led through a partition into an adjacent room so that the living creatures do not wither away and the meat/eggs do not stink. The heater, unlike a bathhouse, is filled with heavy, non-porous stone - granite, etc.

For garage

A diesel fuel stove for a garage should also be started during testing. Optimal design garage miracle stove is shown in Fig. right; the flame bowl under the drips (extended) is also a container for non-pressure combustion of oil. Power - up to 5 kW per one afterburner column (riser), but making a stove with more than 2 risers is unacceptable, it can explode! Design data:

Materials – square corrugated pipe 180x180x6 for the bed (combustion chamber) and afterburner, and 100x100x6 for risers.
The length of the bed is 380 mm, the afterburner is 1000 mm, the height of the risers is 500 mm.
There are 8 holes in the risers with a diameter of 10 mm on all 4 sides, evenly distributed along the axis.
To start the furnace during mining, the feed tank must be disconnected and the dropper pipe must be plugged from the outside.
A separate deflector is not needed; the sunbed cover serves as one.

Heating with drippers

If a drip stove is used for heating, it needs a power of at least 15-16 kW. This cannot be achieved only by increasing the drop frequency: due to the increased heat generation, the drops will evaporate while still in the supply tube. The stove (now a homemade liquid fuel boiler) will start burning with pops and then go out. Therefore, in a heating boiler using diesel fuel and exhaust, the dropper tube is connected to a flame bowl in a jacket, cooled by an air flow.

But that's not all. Due to the same greater heat release, the evaporation of fuel and combustion of vapors will be more intense. Some of the fuel vapor will be immediately thrown aside, will not burn and will begin to accumulate in the volume of the boiler, which can lead to an explosion. Therefore, a swirler is installed at the outlet of the fuel line, and the design of the deflector will be different than in a drip stove.

The diagram for connecting a homemade diesel fuel drip boiler to the heating system is shown in the figure:

Air supply at power up to approx. 12 kW thermoconvection energy-independent: the intake air is first heated in the air jacket chimney, and then cools down somewhat in the aluminum corrugated hose, which provides the necessary “suction”. At higher power, a boost from the fan is required of approx. 60 W, for example, blowing the radiator of a VAZ-2109.

Note: drawings of a drip heating boiler made from a gas cylinder with a power of up to 12 kW and an air-heating furnace made of pipes for 10 kW with a cooled dripper are given on the following. rice.:

A significant drawback of the described system is that in order to avoid burner extinguishing and the accumulation of explosive vapors in it, the water in the boiler jacket must flow countercurrent to natural thermosiphon circulation, i.e. top down. Therefore, the system requires circulation pump with non-volatile (thermomechanical) automatic emergency shutdown of the boiler in the event of a power failure. All this makes this system very complex and at the same time unreliable.

It is possible to build a drip boiler for a water heating system with natural thermosiphon circulation, but in this case its design becomes more complicated and it becomes necessary to force air into the cooling jacket of the fuel line. If you definitely want to heat yourself with diesel fuel or simply nothing else, then see the following for drawings of a drip heating boiler with natural circulation of coolant in the water jacket. rice.

Also an option

There is another way to start a wood-coal stove using kerosene and diesel fuel: stick an ejection burner into its firebox. It is possible if there is a source of compressed air - the boost required is 1.5-2 ati. Provided that the fuel tank is located below the burner (this is absolutely necessary!), this method is as safe as possible: there is no pressurization - the burner goes out. Assembly drawing The spray head of an ejection burner for gasoline, kerosene and diesel fuel is shown in Fig. Air is supplied to the annular gap (highlighted in color); the missing dimensions can be taken proportionally, because drawing to scale.

Conclusion

So, in what cases is heating with diesel fuel justified? It is impossible to cook food using diesel fuel. First: let’s say you are supplied with, well, let’s say, American shale diesel fuel for free, but procurement of fuel locally is impossible for one reason or another. Second: there is simply no other fuel and no other fuel in sight. In any other circumstances, the use of diesel fuel for heating should be considered as a last resort.