DIY heating boilers with high efficiency. How to make solid fuel boilers with your own hands types, step-by-step installation guide. The process of making solid fuel boilers for long burning with your own hands: drawings and assembly

Owners of private houses who decide to install a solid fuel heating boiler are primarily concerned with 3 parameters - thermal power unit, its price and duration of combustion from 1 load. These parameters are interrelated, the more power and duration of operation, the higher the cost of the heat generator. The only way to cut costs is to make a boiler long burning do it yourself or entrust the work to the masters. We present 2 designs of TT-boilers, detailed drawings and the procedure for manufacturing heaters.

How the burning time of solid fuel increases

The dream of many homeowners is that you don't have to run around with wood every 4-6 hours. Taking advantage of this, manufacturers and sellers of heating equipment apply the prefix "burning duration" to all heat generators in a row, including pellet ones, which operate independently for up to 7 days.

Varieties of classic boilers with an enlarged fuel chamber

The duration of the combustion process is usually justified by using the smoldering mode with a limited air supply. But burning wood and coal in this way is ineffective, and here's why:

Wood and coal boilers achieve their efficiency of 70-75% during maximum combustion. When smoldering, the efficiency of the unit is reduced to 40-50% (like a conventional potbelly stove).
Smoldering wood produces little heat energy. Who needs a “long-playing” heat generator that does not fully heat the house?
Freshly felled wood of certain species (eg poplar, willow) and low-calorie fuel cannot be burned normally in the smoldering mode.

Factory boiler with an enlarged firebox, where firewood burns from top to bottom

In reality, solid fuel boilers long burning - these are those that have an enlarged fuel chamber, only its size affects the duration of the process, all other things being equal. The principle is simple: the more wood in the firebox, the longer it burns and produces heat.

Household boilers, capable of working from one tab for 8-12 hours on wood and up to 24 hours on, are of the following types:

classic, with forced air supply;
operating on the principle of upper combustion (like the Baltic "Stropuva").

It is quite possible to make these designs of TT-boilers at home with the necessary tools and practice in welding. Even on the Internet, you can find drawings of mine boilers for solid fuel and sawdust, but such heaters are rather bulky and difficult to manufacture, and therefore deserve a separate topic.

Long burning classic boiler

In this section, we offer you a homemade wood and coal heating unit, designed and made by our expert. The master assembled several dozen similar heat generators of various capacities to order, constantly improving the design. For a brief overview of the TT boiler, see the video:

The reliability and efficiency of boilers has already been tested by time at various facilities. Specifications the presented model of the unit are as follows:

power - 22-24 kW;
burning time (on average) on wood 10-12 hours, minimum - 8 hours;
the same, on coal - up to 1 day;
Efficiency - 75-77%;
maximum working pressure in the heating system - 3 Bar, nominal - 1.5 Bar;
the amount of water in the boiler tank - 50 l;
product weight - 150 kg;
loading opening size (width x height) 360 x 250 mm;
total volume of the furnace - 112 liters, useful (for loading fuel) - 83 liters;
the depth of the firebox is 46 cm, the optimal log length is 40 cm.

For reference. The master manufactures long-burning boilers of various capacities, the line includes units for 16, 24, 36 and 130 kW. The price of a finished product for 24 kW when ordering from a master is about 450 USD. e. All questions and clarifications related to the device of a solid fuel boiler and its manufacture can be discussed personally with Vitaly, whose contacts are listed on the page.

The device and overall dimensions of a wood-burning boiler for long-term burning for do-it-yourself manufacturing are shown in the drawing:

The heat generator successfully operates both on wood and coal. The useful capacity of the firebox is calculated up to the lower edge of the loading opening, since it is undesirable to fill the chamber to the top. The boiler operates in the following order:

After filling and lighting solid fuel, the doors are hermetically closed.
The desired coolant temperature is set on the electronic control unit, it is recommended not lower than 50 ° С. Then the unit is turned on by pressing the corresponding button, the fan is started.
When warming up to the set temperature, the fan is turned off, air access to the firebox stops. The TT boiler is in standby mode, the firewood smolders very weakly and practically does not give heat.
After the temperature in the boiler tank drops, the controller gives a command to start the fan and the combustion process in the furnace resumes.

The controller adjusts the fan capacity at its own discretion in order to achieve maximum combustion efficiency. There is no smoldering combustion in this home-made boiler, it is either in a standby state, or it burns wood and coal in an intensive mode.

The internal structure of the unit is shown in the boiler drawings in section:

The heating system implements the classic method of burning solid fuels with direct heat transfer to the walls of the water jacket and the vault, which is the bottom of the boiler tank. A fire-tube heat exchanger is immersed in this tank, which takes away the heat of the flue gases. The air heated in the duct is fed into the furnace from below, through the grate. The duration of burning is ensured by:

Large volume of the firebox.
Complete blocking of air access to the firebox in standby mode. After turning off the fan, a gravitational damper is activated, closing the air duct and thus preventing the chimney draft from blowing up the coals.

The arrangement of the rear end and the fire tube heat exchanger is shown in the following drawing:

Tools and materials for manufacturing

Low-carbon steel grades St 3, 10, 20 are usually used for workpieces for assembling a long-burning solid fuel boiler. The best way- Art 20, heat generators made from it serve up to 15 years. Steel containing more carbon (St 35, 45) tends to get hot from high temperatures, and therefore is unsuitable for welding a heat generator.

If you have sufficient experience in welding and the ability to buy metal at a higher price, then the combustion chamber can be made of heat-resistant steel alloyed with chromium and molybdenum (for example, 12XM, 12X1MF). How to independently determine the grade of steel with sufficient approximation is described.

The list of blanks from which you will begin to assemble a solid fuel boiler with your own hands is given in the form of a table:

Advice. It is best to cut the workpieces with guillotine shears somewhere in the workshop. This will save you a ton of time in manual cutting and deburring.

Additionally, you will need the following materials:

equal flange angle 50 x 4 mm for the manufacture of grates;
pipe DN50 - to the heat exchanger and heating system connection pipes;
pipe DN150 - to the flue pipe;
profile pipe 60 x 40 mm for the air channel;
steel strip 20 x 3 mm;
basalt insulation with a density of 100 kg / m³ and a thickness of 2 cm;
smooth sheet metal 0.3-0.5 mm with polymer paint;
ready-made door handles;
cord, asbestos cardboard.

Of the tools, it is worth noting a welding machine, a grinder and a drill; ANO-21 or MP-3S electrodes are used for welding. The rest is a standard set of measuring devices and tools available in every home.

Polish-made fan and control unit suitable for any home-made TT-boiler

The automation set used in the TT boiler, consisting of a control unit, a fan and a temperature sensor, is made in Poland (do not confuse it with the Chinese one, it looks the same). Marking of the control unit - KG Elektronik SP-05, fan - DP-02.

Assembling the heating unit

First stage the manufacture of a long-burning boiler consists in assembling the body of the firebox from metal 4 mm thick by welding on tacks. It all starts from the bottom of the unit, to which the side walls, vault cover and door openings are attached, as shown in the photo:

The bottom sheet is released in each direction in accordance with the drawing, at the same time it serves as the bottom frame of the ash pan door. Inside the chamber, welded shelves are fixed from the corners, where the grate will rest. The assembled firebox is carefully boiled at all joints and checked for leaks.

Second phase- installation of a 3 mm metal water jacket. Its thickness at the side walls is 2 cm, therefore, pieces of steel strip should be welded to the body of the firebox, releasing them by 20 mm. Steel sheathing sheets are attached to them.

Attention! The water jacket starts at the level of the grate and does not wash over the ash chamber.

The so-called clips are placed in the middle in a checkerboard pattern. This is a steel circle passed through the holes in the wall of the boiler tank and butt welded to the firebox. The second end of the clip is scalded around the hole, as shown in the photo:

The photo on the right shows where the bottom of the water jacket is, on the left is the boiler tank

A few words about how to make additional clips around the edges of the water jacket of a homemade solid fuel boiler. You need to take a strip of 20 mm and insert it from the end between the walls to a depth of 50-100 mm, and then weld on both sides.

Third stage- installation of flame tubes in upper part boiler tank. For this, holes are cut in the rear and front walls, according to the drawing, into which pipes are inserted. Their ends are hermetically welded, like all the joints of the water jacket.

The flame tubes of the heat exchanger fan out from the chimney

Fourth stage- manufacturing of doors and grate. A strip in 2 rows is welded to the doors from the inside, and an asbestos cord is inserted between them, this will seal the porch. The grates are made from corners No. 5, welded with the outer corner downward. So they serve as diffusers of the air supplied by the fan to the ash pan.

At the fifth stage fittings for connecting the supply and return pipelines are cut into the walls of the boiler tank, a chimney pipe and an air duct from a 60 x 40 mm pipe with a fan mounting flange are installed. The air duct enters the ash chamber in the middle of the rear wall, just below the water jacket.

Stage six- welding door hinges and embedded parts 2 cm wide for fastening the decorative casing of a long-burning boiler.

Stage seven, last. The boiler tank is enclosed from the sides and from the top basalt insulation, the latter is fixed with a cord. After that, it remains to fasten the sheets of painted metal with self-tapping screws to the embedded parts and install the doors.

Dense basalt fiber insulates the body well and easily withstands high temperatures. Glass wool should not be used

At the end, a fan is attached to the counter flange of the air duct, and the control unit is installed on the boiler from above. The temperature sensor must be inserted under the basalt insulation from the rear wall of the unit. In addition, a number of useful additions can be made to the design of a home-made long-burning boiler, if you wish:

integrate a hot water heating circuit into the boiler tank;
provide an immersion well for installing a thermometer - in case of a power outage when the controller display goes out;
the same - for the installation of a security group;
install an electric heating element, heating the coolant after the firewood has burned out.

A few words about how to make circulation hot water in a solid fuel boiler in order to heat it for household needs. You need to take 10 m of copper tube with a diameter of 8-12 mm and bend a coil from it in the form of a spiral. The latter is wound inside the boiler tank around the flame tubes, and the ends are led out from the rear of the unit. We get a long-burning double-circuit boiler.

Note. The practice of operating these heat generators has shown that the installation of an electric heater is necessary for those homeowners who wish to heat the house at the night rate. In other cases, the duration of combustion is sufficient so as not to run into the boiler room in the middle of the night in order to throw firewood.

It is better to remove the film from the painted metal immediately, and cover the doors with heat-resistant enamel

The legs can be attached to the unit at any stage by choosing suitable lengths of rolled metal. For details and secrets of the TT boiler assembly, see the author's video of the master - the creator of the heating unit:

Top fired boiler

In the post-Soviet space, these heat generators are known in two varieties:

Baltic aggregates from Stropuva and their derivatives from other manufacturers.
Wood-burning stoves of the Bubafonya type.

It is not known which of the heaters appeared earlier, but the Bubafonya stove gained wide popularity as a heater for summer cottages, garages and other buildings with low requirements for the aesthetics of the product. The same cannot be said about upper combustion boilers, although for some reason many of them are considered the only possible version of solid fuel heat generators for continuous combustion. In fact, their only trump card is still the same - a large firebox.

The principle of operation of such boilers consists in burning fuel pressed down by a load from top to bottom. Moreover, air is supplied to the combustion zone from above, through a telescopic pipe connected to the load. The working diagram of the unit is shown in the figure:

The original diagram of the boiler, taken from the site stropuva.ru

During the operation of the Stropuva boilers, many shortcomings appeared, as evidenced by the reviews of the owners on the forums:

You cannot put logs into the firebox until the previous tab has burned out. Physically it is possible, but then the principle of overhead combustion will be violated, the flame will cover all layers of the fuel.
When working with fresh sawdust and other small debris, the remaining fuel "hangs" on the walls.
The efficiency of the TT boiler is not very high, since there is no heat exchanger in it. There is no room left for the heat exchanger because of the air heating chamber and the large firebox.

The heat generator has no more critical flaws, but something in the homemade version can be corrected at your own discretion. For example, put the bottom and grate bars by organizing an ash chamber. It is also possible to get rid of the lack of additional loading by placing an additional door between the loading and ash opening. This idea of modernizing the upper combustion boiler belongs to our other expert, Vladimir Sukhorukov, about which he talks in his video:

Preparation of materials

The round case creates some inconvenience in manufacturing, but you can't make it square either - the fuel will "hang" in the corners. There is also a problem with assembling a telescopic tube with a load, so it is better to take this part from the Bubafonya stove. A drawing of a long-burning boiler, comparable in size to the classic version, looks like this:

Before making a boiler, we select materials according to the drawing:

pipe DN 400 with a wall of 5 mm - on the firebox;
the same, DN 50 - for air supply and water connections;
the same, DN 100 - for the chimney;
workpiece from a 10 mm thick sheet of round shape with a diameter of 38 cm;
strip 40 x 4 mm - for air distributors;
reinforcement with a diameter of 16-20 mm of a periodic profile - on grates;
basalt wool with a thickness of 3 cm and a density of 100 kg / m³;
polymer coated sheet metal.

The choice of the material of the water jacket depends on the method of its installation, because home master there are hardly any rolls in stock that can shape a metal 3 mm thick into a cylinder. The options are as follows (shown in the diagram below):

Scheme No. 1. Take a thin-walled pipe of a larger diameter, although it is not easy to find one, and an ordinary one will greatly weigh the boiler.
Scheme No. 2. Bend two sheets of metal in 2 places at an angle of 60 °, and then weld the two halves together. You will need a press - bending machine.
Scheme No. 2 in a different design. Boil a shirt of 6 sheets - segments with clips.
Scheme No. 3. Weld a rectangular box, which will increase the volume of the boiler tank.

Scheme number 2 can be implemented in two ways - welded from 2 bent halves or 6 flat sheets

You will also need 3 mm sheet metal for the door framing, the bottom with the lid and the air damper.

Heat generator manufacturing

The production of work begins with cutting out blanks and openings in the pipe wall according to the dimensions in the drawing. Doors are made from the cut parts, awnings and purchased handles are attached to them. The grate is cooked from the fittings, shown in the photo:

In general, the assembly algorithm for the upper combustion boiler looks like this:

Cut a hole in a round blank for cargo, insert a pipe into it and scald it.
Weld 6 curved strips to the bottom of the load to serve as air distributors.
Attach the bottom to the firebox, install the grate inside.
Cut a hole in the center of the cover for the air pipe and fit it to the firebox. Before that, you need to put the pipe with the load in place.
Weld the chimney pipe.
Mount the water jacket according to the selected scheme, weld all joints hermetically.
Make inserts for the coolant pipes.
Insulate and casing the boiler, install the doors.
Place the damper on the top of the air pipe.

Six distributor strips are sufficient for air distribution

It is difficult to install automation and pressurization on a boiler for long-term upper combustion, since you cannot attach a fan to a moving pipe. It is necessary to make a flexible sleeve, and provide an immersion sleeve for the temperature sensor. It is impossible to put it under the insulation, because the combustion zone in this type of heater is constantly shifting downward.

It is better to test the boiler, of course, on the street.

Conclusion

Both designs of solid fuel boilers for long burning, made by hand, have the right to life. But making a reliable heating unit is not easy - the metal joints must be welded efficiently and tightly. The experience and qualifications of a welder are indispensable. Hence the conclusion: if you see that you will not overcome the self-assembly or you do not have time for this, contact the masters. This will save you up to 50% of your money compared to buying a factory-made TT boiler.

A solid fuel boiler is an expensive unit, and many home craftsmen want to make it on their own, reducing the costs of the family budget for heating and maintaining the system. The schematic diagram of a long-burning solid fuel boiler is rather complicated, but with appropriate theoretical and practical training, everyone can make this heating device, and in some respects it can surpass industrial models of solid fuel boilers.

Types of pyrolysis boilers

The first step in assembling a long-burning boiler with your own hands is to choose the type of unit, which will depend on the training of the master, the use of professional and special devices and materials. It is not difficult to find a drawing of a solid fuel boiler for long burning, and the following diagram can be taken as a basis:

This is the simplest, but reliably working boiler circuit that uses the pyrolysis effect. What designs of pyrolysis combustion heating boilers still exist, and how do they differ from each other? The main difference is how the direction of solid fuel combustion will be constructively formalized:

Bottom combustion apparatus - the fuel must be ignited from below. This is the traditional scheme for most pyrolysis devices. Such units are divided into two subspecies:
- With a standard combustion scheme, in which coal, peat or sawdust ignite and burn in one combustion chamber, which works simultaneously as a loading (stowing) chamber and a firebox. Exhaust gases and smoke are discharged through the chimney in the upper section of the firebox;
- Shaft boiler - the fuel storage shaft performs only its functions. Fuel ignites from below, fire and hot products of fuel combustion move through a heat exchanger, equipped in an adjacent chamber;
Apparatus with top combustion of fuel work the other way around - the combustible material is ignited from above, and a long combustion process takes place, directed from top to bottom under the influence of forced pressurization.

By the type of fuel combustion, the units are divided into:

Boilers with standard combustion type;
Units with gas generator or pyrolysis combustion - fuel burns at high temperatures in the chamber and with a lack of oxygen. This produces wood gas, called pyrolysis gas, which also burns out during its removal from the boiler.

Also, solid fuel boilers can have different schemes and designs of heat exchangers. The heat exchanger itself can be made in the form of a coil encircling the fuel chamber and pipes, or in the form of a solid metal jacket that covers the firebox from all sides.

Solid fuel boiler - how to make it yourself

The most efficient in terms of efficiency (≥ 90%), easy to manufacture and reliable in operation are solid-fuel gas generator devices. Such a heating device works on the principle of "slow" combustion of fuel when there is a lack of oxygen in the firebox. Due to the lack of oxygen in the chamber, a large volume of combustible gases is generated, the combustion of which takes place in the next chamber. It is noteworthy that combustible materials are cheap and affordable firewood, peat or straw in briquettes (pellets), oil mill waste (sunflower husk), coal, shavings or sawdust, household waste.

An industrial pyrolysis boiler is expensive (at least $ 600-700), although many people like it for its characteristics. For this reason, assembling an upper combustion boiler at home is a demanded problem that solves economic family issues.

The difficulties of assembly do not scare off the craftsmen - you need to be able to handle electric welding, read drawings and diagrams. Heating equipment with a lower chamber is more expensive and more difficult to make, therefore, for self assembly For the boiler, a scheme with pyrolysis combustion is recommended, the chamber for which is mounted in the upper part of the body.

Design and manufacture of a boiler with top combustion

For the manufacture of the boiler body, it is necessary to prepare two metal molds with different sizes, which are connected by welding to each other. The easiest way to find cylindrical bodies, for example, from gas, oxygen or other cylinders. A larger cylinder will serve as an outer casing, a smaller cylinder will serve as a boiler combustion chamber;
The distance between the cylinders will work like a shirt - the coolant will pass through it;
A smaller cylinder is divided by a steel partition into two compartments - one part works as a firebox and an air distributor, in the other compartment the gas released during the pyrolysis reaction is burned;
The distributor is made in the form of a telescopic structure, from one end of which a plane with petals is attached by welding, evenly distributing the burning discharge;
Air enters the combustion zone from the back end to maintain constant fuel combustion;
Burning out, the volume of the bookmark decreases, and the distributor moves lower, redistributing the air supply;
To control the combustion, special devices are installed that run on electricity;

For the manufacture of pyrolysis boilers by the craftsman, you will need simple tools, inexpensive materials and clear schemes:

It is necessary to develop your own drawing or make a solid fuel boiler for long burning with your own hands, drawings for which can be found in the public domain. As a last resort, you can work with a common or schematic diagram, which will indicate the main dimensions of the structure;
DC machine for metal welding, electrodes 3 and 4 mm;
Grinder and discs for metal (grinding and cutting);
Metal cylinder ( steel pipe or balloon) L = 1.3 m, Ø = 0.5 m, H = 3 mm (L - cylinder length, Ø - cylinder diameter, H - cylinder stack thickness);
Metal cylinder (steel pipe or cylinder) L = 1.5 m, Ø = 0.45 m, H = 3 mm (L - cylinder length, Ø - cylinder diameter, H - cylinder stack thickness). If there are no cylinders or suitable pipes, bodies can be made from steel sheets measuring 1250 x 2500 x 2.5 mm, rolled at the factory and round bodies can be welded from them;
Steel pipe Ø 60 mm, product length - 1.2 m;
Two narrow iron cylinders Ø 0.5 m, 25 mm wide. Such elements can be formed from sheet iron and welded;
Steel sheet for the door of the loading and ash chambers;
Awnings, handles for opening doors, air valves;
Trimming the metal corner for the legs of the body and for the manufacture of blades;
Asbestos cord or asbestos cloth for thermal insulation of the furnace and ash doors;

How to make a boiler drum from pipes

Steel pipes 0.5 and 0.45 m are inserted into each other and connected by a metal ring made of a 25 mm wide plate;
A workpiece Ø 0.45 m is cut out of sheet iron, one end of the pipes is welded to obtain a cylinder with a thermal circuit 25 mm wide;
A rectangular hole of 150-100 mm is cut at the end of the cylinder for the ash chamber door. Then the hatch is welded, the door itself is hinged and equipped with an air damper;
Above the body, a rectangle is cut out for fuel insertion. The dimensions of the combustion door are calculated based on the dimensions of the fuel. A hatch is welded on and a door is attached to the hinges, which is also equipped with a latch. It is recommended to cook doors with double walls and with asbestos gaskets to reduce heat losses;

A pipe section is welded into the top of the body for the release of fuel combustion products;
According to the dimensions of the jacket, sections of pipes Ø 1 "or ¾" are welded to the top and bottom, through which the heating of the house will be connected. Threads are cut on the pipes;

It remains to check all seams by pressure testing with water under a pressure of ≥ 2 kg / cm 2.

How to make an air distributor

It is necessary to cut out a workpiece from sheet iron by two to three centimeters less than the inner diameter of the boiler. In the center of this workpiece, a Ø 60 mm hole must be cut by welding (the same as the diameter of the distributor pipe);
After the boiler distributor has been manufactured, it must be fixed. To do this, cut out a steel circle Ø 500 mm and cut a hole Ø 60 mm in the center. The distributor is installed in the unit, the upper part of the distributor must be threaded through this hole, after which the boiler cover can be welded tightly. To raise and lower the distributor, a steel cable is attached to the loop;
Sections of a corner or channel are welded onto the circle below, which will act as blades. They can be bent, as in the photo, but you can leave them straight;
At the opposite end, an iron loop is attached by welding to raise the distributor, a damper is installed, which is designed to regulate the air stream in the fuel combustion zone.

Do-it-yourself pyrolysis boilers for long-term burning, drawings of which can be found in a wide variety in the general access, can be with a lower chamber, but such structures are much more difficult to make with your own hands. Such units are constructively performed with a smoke exhauster or with forced pressurization.

In this embodiment, air is forced into the chamber for burning off the fuel. This boost creates high pressure, due to which there is an almost complete burnout. The fan can be mounted either directly on the firebox door, or on the side, connected to the chamber with a metal sleeve.

Advantages of boilers with bottom combustion of fuel:

The blower fan can be absolutely anything;
It is possible to combine the combustion chamber with the afterburner, since the required air volume is provided by the pressurization, and it can be regulated by the fan power.

But this advantage also has negative sides:

Due to the high speed of the air stream, not all of the air is directed to the center of the combustion site, and the fuel will not be completely burned;
Also, due to the high speed of air, a small percentage of pyrolysis gases do not burn, getting into the chimney in their original form, therefore, it is impossible to obtain an efficiency of more than 80-90% with such an organization of the combustion process.
If the pressurization is too strong, the boiler can simply explode, therefore it is necessary to carefully calculate the pressurization rate and the amount of pressure generated.

Not! But this does not mean that I live in a world of limited space.
I do not have a car equipped with gas equipment, but this does not mean that I do not understand this issue and do not have personal experience maintenance and operation. But I have two welding machines, a fashionable mask (certified in Europe), but I DIDN'T LEARN to cook.
And I don’t want to study. That's not mine and that's it.
If there is no clear understanding. Do it, buy a universal one. What's the question? Someone forbids? I will put myself a second one if it becomes necessary to heat with wood, which is unlikely. Obviously, I will not grind firewood in the three-section Viadrus on an ongoing basis. And if the gas is supplied, I will buy a gas boiler, obviously I will not push the burner into Viadrus. I don't need to think about versatility not all occasions. Previously, I changed the car every year, and I did not find a universal one for myself. It will be necessary, I will collect boilers.
I didn’t delve into it, I don’t know ... it will be good. I do not care.
I don `t need it...
Watch the video link, at 6min 39 s a man of normal height, normally cleans a vertical heat exchanger ... That's the catch: put at least 10 sections of heat exchangers vertically in width, the height does not change from this. Therefore, you can make what you like. In this case, only the width or length will change as it is more convenient. And with a significant boiler power, of course, there will be a need for inflation.
Practice shows that under optimal conditions, the temperature of the extinguishing gases increases and the efficiency increases, and during smoldering, the temperature of the extinguishing gases drops, but the efficiency sometimes drops by more than two times. I tested this in practice. I can burn a full firebox with a strangled draft and not heat the room
Because in the design of the boiler you are talking about, the entire furnace flares up and there is no way to control the intensity of combustion.
In the boiler design that I suggested to the person, as an option, the annealing goes below. And it is controlled by the amount of air supplied. Above the annealing zone, not intense pyrolysis occurs, and the upper part of the bookmark is dried ... When the closed space is filled with pyrolysis gases, they have one way, only through the annealing zone, through the nozzle ... I already wrote about this.
And if you look more broadly, your practice is not a regularity for all types of fuel ... That is why I called the proposed design, clearly a wood-burning boiler ... And the main plus is the controllability of the combustion intensity.
The pursuit of a wildly low temperature of dead gases on wood (I did not check it on anthracite) is an erroneous direction and a consequence of narrow thinking due to flushing it ...
In my proposed design, by controlling the intensity of combustion. You can easily keep Tukh gases 130-150 * С. Is it a wildly low Tukh on the wood? But again, this is a calculation for mass production. For yourself, you can further increase the area of the heat exchanger and even lower will be Tukh. But here the question of the quality of firewood and chimney arises. And do not confuse Tukh with direct heat transfer and when you heat TA ...
On anthracite, there are such miracles when the system works around the clock, with direct heat transfer WITHOUT TA. The boiler is loaded 100% at this moment, overboard + 8 * C, in the house 22-23 * C.
As you can see, the combustion is easily controlled, the whole firebox does not flare up and everything is in order with efficiency. TA - three hundred years old goat button accordion.

For water heating of a private house, many designs of heating devices have been developed. Mine boilers stand out for their efficiency and low maintenance. Their cost is quite high, so many craftsmen repeat factory models at home or make them according to their own design.

Mine boiler - design and principle of operation

Mine differs from others in the duration of burning and the features of the device. Often it is not required to add fuel, it has a large volume of fuel chamber, and combustion is slow. Two types of mine boilers have been developed: with conventional combustion and pyrolysis. Each has a similar device of two chambers: one burns fuel, the second has a heat exchanger.

A mine boiler with conventional combustion is simpler in design. Half of the entire volume is occupied by a firebox with a height of almost the entire unit, but of small width and depth. On the side or on top there is a hatch for loading fuel. When viewed from above, the combustion chamber resembles a mine, hence the name. An ash pan is located under the combustion chamber, separated from it by a grate. Through the ash-pan door, access opens not only to it, but also to the firebox. The air intake is regulated by a gate located under the door.

The second important part is a chamber with a heat exchanger filled with water or, if the boiler is not used for, a fire tube. Gases enter it from the firebox through the hole and exit through the chimney, simultaneously heating the heat exchanger. From it, water enters the system through pipes or hot air heats the room.

The shaft-type pyrolysis boiler has a similar design, but is manufactured with some additional elements:

1. Chambers in which carbon monoxide burns and burns out. Located at the bottom of the heat exchange space, the walls are lined with fireclay bricks.
2. Several pipes with many small holes. Through them, air is supplied for the combustion chambers and afterburning.
3. At the top of the wall there are valves for separating the two chambers.

The principle of operation of the pyrolysis boiler is somewhat different. When firing, the flow of air is limited, slow combustion causes the formation of a large number gases that enter additional chambers and burn. Any solid fuel is burned in boilers: coal, wood, pellets. One load of coal is enough for five days, firewood - no more than thirty hours. Due to complete combustion, such boilers have a high efficiency - up to 90%.

Continuous burning device - classic scheme

The proposed design has a power of 22 kW, an efficiency of 75%. It works on wood for 10 hours without additional loading, on coal - for a day. The firebox has a volume of 83 liters up to the lower edge of the loading opening. The boiler is equipped with Polish-made automatics: a control unit with a KG Elektronik SP-05 temperature sensor and a DP-02 fan. General view is shown in the drawing.

The device works as follows:

1. Firewood is loaded into the firebox and set on fire. The doors are hermetically closed.
2. The required heating temperature is set on the control unit, not less than 50 °. The unit button is pressed and the fan starts to blow air.
3. When the set temperature is reached, the air supply by the fan stops. Firewood smolders slowly, they give very little heat.
4. After a while, the temperature drops. The fan switches on again and combustion continues.

The electronic unit regulates the combustion process, which takes place at maximum efficiency. There is practically no smoldering, intensive combustion and standby modes are used.

The following figure shows an inside view.

Solid fuel is burned according to the classical scheme: heat is directly transferred to the walls of the water jacket and the roof of the tank. It has a built-in heat exchanger that takes heat from the gases. Heated air is fed into the firebox through the air duct from below. The fuel loaded in large quantities ensures a long operating time of the boiler. While waiting, when the fan turns off, the air is completely blocked off by a gravitational damper, triggered by automatic equipment, the natural draft is blocked.

The drawing shows the rear with a flame tube heat exchanger.

Manufacturing a heater - assembly sequence

When assembling with our own hands, we use the drawings, we adhere to the specified dimensions. The sequence is as follows:

1. Cut out the body from 4 mm metal: bottom, side walls, lid, doorways. Everything sticks to the bottom, which is released to the sides, as in the drawing. Inside, we fix the corners by welding, which will serve as a shelf for the grate.
2. Carefully weld the joints and proceed to a 3 mm metal water jacket. It retreats from the walls of the case by 20 mm and, to install it, we weld steel strips onto the case. We weld the skin to them.
3. Installing the flame tubes on top of the boiler. We cut holes in the back and front walls, insert several pipes, weld at the ends.
4. Cut out the doors, weld two strips from the inside, put asbestos between them for sealing. We cut the grates of 360 × 460 mm from the corners and weld them to the shelves with an outer corner.
5. In the walls of the tank we cut the fittings on the supply and return pipelines, the branch pipe of the smoke channel. We weld the air duct from shaped pipe 40 × 60 mm. A fan will be attached to it through the flange. The air inlet is through the back wall.
6. Weld on door hinges and tabs for fixing the decorative frame. We wrap the boiler tank with basalt insulation, fasten it with a cord. We fasten the frame with self-tapping screws to the tabs, install the doors.

We install a fan on the air duct, an electronic unit on top of the boiler, and hide the sensor under a heater.

Mine pyrolysis boiler - device features

Boilers with additional chambers for complete combustion of gases generated during the combustion process are more efficient than classic long-burning boilers. The gases are released at high temperatures and, thanks to the special design of the boiler, completely burn out, giving additional heat. Only very dry firewood is used; the system does not work with wet fuel. The use of wood pellets allows you to automate their feeding.

When starting the manufacture of a heating boiler, you should carefully study the diagram, understand the work, and familiarize yourself with the working drawings. In any design, you can make some changes that do not relate to the principal device. Changes are usually associated with external dimensions, connection and are caused by specific conditions. We offer drawings of a 40 kW pyrolysis boiler, which can be taken as a basis for self-production.

The diagram shows: A - controller; B - loading door; C - ash pan; D - smoke exhauster; E - the place where the sensor is installed; F - branch pipe for installation of a safety valve; G - hot water pipe; H - protective heat exchanger - cold water; K - heat exchanger - hot water; L - return flow; M - expander.

To make a boiler, you will need:

sheet metal 4 mm thick;
thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 32 mm, 57 mm, 159 mm;
profile pipe 30 × 60 mm and 40 × 80 mm;
electronic control unit, fan.

The number of materials is calculated based on the specific dimensions of the product. For greater clarity, consider the inside view of the pyrolysis boiler body.

At the first test run, we determine the efficiency of the structure, the easiest way to do this is by smoke: if you do not smell carbon monoxide, Efficiency is high. Instead of a water circuit, an air-heated boiler is sometimes used. Such a system is beneficial for summer cottages, where the owners are on short visits, and the water in the heating system is threatened with defrosting. Hot air is supplied through pipes, and comes by gravity from the floor. We install the mine boiler on a solid concrete foundation.

Brick and metal option - cheaper and easier

The use of bricks will facilitate and reduce the cost of creating a mine boiler with bottom combustion. We make only a vertical type heat exchanger of metal. It can be crafted

from sheet material;
from metal sheets with cut-in pipes;
only from pipes.

A pure tube heat exchanger is the most efficient, but also the most difficult to manufacture. Appearance shown in the figure, dimensions are selected by the manufacturer.

We lay out the blowing chamber on a solid concrete foundation, install the grate. We put a heat exchanger, make high-quality brick walls around it. When laying, we install two doors. The lower door is placed so that it is possible to ignite the fuel and clean the firebox and the ash blower. You can install two separate doors instead of one large one. The upper door serves for loading firewood, coal, it can be placed on the front of the boiler, or it can be in the form of a hatch from above.

The picture below shows general form mine boiler with brick walls.

A few notes on masonry brick walls boiler and installation. The thickness of the facing in half a brick will be sufficient. We expose the heat exchanger so that the hot water outlet is in the very high point... This will prevent the creation of air pockets and improve water circulation. Laying is carried out with bandaging of seams, rises 2–3 cm above the exchanger. We lay out the chimney from brick or install it from metal.

The popularity of suburban housing is growing. But due to the remoteness of the site for the house, it is often necessary to look for extraordinary types of heating without the use of gas or electricity. The most efficient unit for such independent heating is a solid fuel boiler. Let's figure out the intricacies of making it with our own hands.

The device and diagram of a solid fuel boiler

This installation is a classic stove with wood or other similar fuel, connected to cavities for a heat transfer fluid. The fuel in this equipment is ignited, during its combustion, a liquid (usually water) heats up and, plying through the pipes, it gives off heat to the house.

All solid fuel boilers have basic elements:

a firebox with a door - a chamber for burning fuel;

ash pan with a door - a section under the firebox where ash is poured;

a grate separating the chambers, or a grate;

water jacket - a heat exchanger in which water runs to heat the house;

chimney - a pipe for removing smoke.

Fuel heats up the liquid that runs through the pipes and gives off heat to the house

The described units for heating the coolant differ only in the internal structure.

Various types of solid fuel boilers

Depending on the combustion scheme, there are two types of installations:

boilers with top ignition (long burning);

boilers with bottom ignition.

The latter are traditional type when natural raw materials are ignited from below. The first option includes units with delayed combustion of fuel. The fuel ignited from above is also dosed from above with air. So solid fuel burns very slowly inside its chamber from top to bottom, and its loading is extremely rare.

Among boilers with top firing, pyrolysis boilers stand out. They use a phenomenon called pyrolysis. This is the decomposition (smoldering) of wood (or other similar fuel) with the release of gas. In such installations, with a lack of oxygen, the fuel actually does not burn, but decomposes in one chamber, while in the second, adjacent chamber, the pyrolysis gas burns out. Here, solid fuel is usually pressed through by a piston aligned with a pipe for supplying air to the primary chamber (firewood compartment).

In pyrolysis boilers, firewood slowly smolders, while gas burns out in the next chamber

The result is extremely slow combustion of fuel. At the same time, the boiler gives off a lot of heat. Such heating in a house with a coolant in the form of water is very effective.

At the same time, according to the type of fuel burned, boilers are divided into:

wood-burning;

coal;

pellet.

There is a firebox at the top of the wood-burning boiler, and an ash pan at the bottom.

The first two are clear. As for the pellet unit, special compressed sawdust braces are burned in it. They are called pellets.

In any described boilers, the design of the heat exchanger can have one of the following layouts:

simple bent pipe or bent pipe system;

bent pipes, supplemented with sheet registers like a car radiator.

The second option is usually purchased in finished form in a heating equipment store.

The heat exchanger consists of bent pipes, supplemented with sheet registers

Preparation for work

Consider the principle of constructing the described boilers separately for each type, however, the set of tools will always remain unchanged. Billets for assembled units should only be made of cast iron, as of the most resistant to fire and heat metal.

Applied tools and materials

The following arsenal will come in handy:

a simple welding machine with a voltage of 220 volts with a set of protective equipment and electrodes;

angle grinder with a set of discs;

electric drill with a set of drills;

tape measure, level, square.

You can do without welding, but in this case, the walls of the boiler will have to be fastened with brickwork. In this case, the heat exchanger will need to be ordered at the enterprise.

Approximate calculation of materials

For the manufacture of a solid fuel unit, it is initially necessary to calculate the dimensions of its furnace. And they are taken based on the power of the boiler. These kilowatts, in turn, are calculated as follows: the area of the heated room with a height of 2.5 m is used as the initial value, on average, the boiler power is taken equal to the number square meters home divided by ten.

Let, for example, we have an area of the heated room equal to 80 sq. m. Then the required boiler power:

N = 80/10 = 8 kW.

When burning 1 kg of solid fuel, according to reference data, about 4 kW is released. According to the above calculation, 8 kW is sufficient for heating 80 m 2.

This means that from the above it follows that our firebox must hold at least 2 kg of fuel (8 kW / 4 kW = 2). It is known that 500 kg of dried solid fuel takes an approximate volume of 1 m 3. It turns out that the required size of the furnace can be found by dividing a cubic meter by 500 kg and multiplying by 2 kg.

We will be satisfied with the following dimensions:

unit height - 0.5 m;

width - 0.2 m;

combustion chamber depth - 0.3 m.

To check the volume, we multiply these values. V = 0.2 x 0.3 x 0.5 = 0.03 m 3.

This parameter is greater than our calculated value, equal to 0.004 m 3. This means that the accepted dimensions will suit us. Now you can sketch.

The chimney outlet can be positioned behind the boiler

Based on the dimensions of the unit, we stock up on rectangular sheets of cast iron with a thickness of 8 mm for the manufacture of the boiler, as well as a heat exchanger. We need the following details.

side walls with dimensions of 0.5 x 0.3 m - 2 pieces;

back wall with dimensions of 0.5 x 0.2 m - 1 piece;

the bottom of the unit with dimensions of 0.2 x 0.3 m;

In front of the heat generator complete with chamber doors (0.5 x 0.2 m) - 1 piece;

top sheet with a hole for the chimney (0.2 x 0.3 m);

heat exchanger.

We will make the last element from a cast iron pipe using a bending machine. If necessary, we will use a welding machine.

Heated water runs through the heat exchanger

The front part of the heat generator complete with doors is best purchased at the flea market - there are many of them! It is also necessary to purchase a grate installed above the ash pan. Ash from the firebox will pour through it. The heat exchanger can be ordered separately at the welding shop.

Materials for long burning boilers

We use a cylinder for the pyrolysis unit, as well as for a product with the possibility of occasionally laying firewood. It should be a cast iron barrel or pipe about 400 mm in diameter. Its height will be about 1 meter. For the top part, as for the bottom, a round billet with the same diameter of 400 mm is required.

For a pyrolysis boiler, you need a top-like partition. It will be a cast iron circle with a diameter of 400 mm. It will separate the solid fuel chamber from the pyrolysis gas afterburner compartment. For the penetration of gases, holes are needed in it. The same circle is useful for the piston.

Offhand, you can see that the volume of these installations will also exceed the calculated value of 0.004 m 3.

Step-by-step instructions for making a solid fuel boiler

First, we will assemble a classic wood-fired unit with a bottom ignition.

Wood-fired heating boiler

In the manufacture of such a unit, you should proceed in stages:

The lower part - the cast-iron bottom of the future heat generator - is installed horizontally on a flat surface. The rest of the workpieces are pre-cleaned with an angle grinder in the places of future welding.

Then all the walls of the product body are placed vertically. With the help of a square, their mutual perpendicularity is observed. The parts are welded with electrodes at the joints. It turns out while the box is without a top.

When connecting the walls of the case, perpendicularity should be observed, for this you need to use a square

To form a chamber for the blower or the so-called ash pan, a cast-iron grate is installed in size inside the box. The height of its fastening is equal to the height of the formed compartment (about 10 cm is sufficient). The part to be mounted must be tightly fixed. It can be grabbed with short welding seams.

Ash from fuel combustion is poured into the ash pan

Next, the top sheet of the heat generator with a hole for the chimney is welded.

Then working part the heat exchanger is mounted to the firebox in the place of greatest contact with the emitted combustion products.

Now connect the upper opening of the unit to the chimney, in which the damper assembly is present.

At the next stage, the tubular outlets of the water jacket are docked with the heating circuit of the premises. Threaded connections with a seal are used here. At the inlet, if necessary, install coolant temperature sensors or drain valves.

Inside bent pipe

The unit is only tested after complete installation the entire heating system.

Video: DIY solid fuel boiler

DIY pellet boiler

This unit practically does not differ from the wood-burning one. It uses pressed sawdust - pellets only as a solid fuel.

Pellets are easy to use

Based on the foregoing, the instructions for assembling the boiler using this type of fuel will be identical to those described earlier. Only the ash pan grate is used here with narrower slots so that the granules do not immediately fall down.

DIY solid fuel boiler for long burning

This unit differs from the one described above in that firewood or pellets are loaded and ignited in it from above, and not from below. Also, the body of the product is cylindrical. The manufacturing instruction looks like this:

We install the bottom with a diameter of 400 mm on the platform for the boiler.

We weld a cast iron pipe of the appropriate size to the bottom. This will be the body of the assembled unit.

A pipe with a diameter of 400 mm can be used for the boiler drum

On the side of the cylinder, in the upper part of it, we cut out holes opposite to each other - one for laying firewood, and the second for igniting fuel.

We weld a circle to the body for the upper part of the product.

In this part, we cut out two holes - one for connecting to the chimney, and the other for air supply. However, a chimney outlet can also be made on the side of the case.

In the boiler, for combustion, an air supply pipe is required.

We connect the chimney and the air supply to the boiler. The latter can be equipped with a fan.

Diy pyrolysis boiler

The device in this product resembles the one just described. But a few details need to be added.

Since it is very difficult to make a pyrolysis boiler yourself, it is usually purchased as a whole. The instructions described below are an approximate plan of action when installing a homemade installation.

Initially, the same cylinder is used as in the previous technology. Then the following actions are carried out:

A partition is welded inside the container. It is a cast iron circle with holes. In the future, it will separate the upper wood combustion chamber from the pyrolysis combustion chamber of the emitted gas.

Next, a piston is made. This part is designed to push solid fuel during its combustion. The element should be heavy, and its diameter should be slightly less than the corresponding size of the cylinder.

The piston pushes the fuel during combustion

Finally, the piston is installed inward. Next, the upper part of the unit is welded with holes for the piston rod, for connecting to the chimney and for loading firewood or pellets.

Connect to the chimney.

All boilers are connected to the general heating system in the same way, therefore the further description is the same for all the instructions given.

Installation of piping

The piping is connected to the heat generator in stages:

To begin with, install the supply water supply. It must be connected to the upper outlet of the solid fuel boiler by means of a valve, the role of which is usually played by a ball valve.

The supply water pipe is connected to the boiler using a ball valve

At the top point, at the beginning of the supply pipeline, it is desirable to set an expansion capacity of 10 liters. After all, the coolant tends to expand when heated, and this tank will serve as a kind of pressure stabilizer in the system.

The expansion tank serves as a pressure stabilizer in the system

Next, you need to mount the radiators under the windows of the room, in accordance with building codes, and connect the supply line to them.

The heating supply line is connected to the radiators

Then the return line is mounted. After the radiators, closer to thermal unit, a three-way valve is installed on this line.

A jumper pipeline is connected to the three-way valve, which directly connects the supply and return. A jumper is needed for emergency shutdown of the boiler from the system.

A branch pipe with a valve should be attached to the straight outlet of the three-way valve, after which, if necessary, a pump is built in.

Next comes the installation of the circulation pump. It can be mounted on the supply line, but it is better on the return line. For the installation of this unit on the "return" is justified, since the temperature of the coolant is lower here, which means that the operating conditions of the device are better.

The circulation pump is best mounted on the return line.

Finally, the final element is a ball valve, from which the "return" pipe goes directly to the return outlet of the boiler.

The boiler is installed in accordance with building codes... The main thing here is compliance with fire safety rules.

The distance from the walls to the boiler must be at least 35 cm.

The place for the heat generator is chosen in a private house for the following reasons:

the boiler should be located in the center of the building, in the corner of walls adjacent to other rooms;

the unit is located close to the house chimney;

the installation site of the heat generator (floor and walls) is covered with metal or other material that protects against fire.

The above instructions prove that making a solid fuel boiler with your own hands is not so difficult. Most importantly, you need some skill in plumbing. You also need to be able to handle a welding machine. At the same time, a solid fuel boiler built in accordance with all the rules practically does not require maintenance. It is enough to clean it from ash only once a season.