How to fix small holes in the walls. How to close a hole in a concrete, brick and plasterboard wall. How best to putty

Today we will learn how and with what to close a hole in the wall and on the ceiling. When making repairs, you will certainly face the task of preparing perfectly smooth walls for wallpapering or painting. The path is not fast and is associated with many construction operations.

How to patch a hole in a concrete wall

First, let's look at how to close a hole in a concrete wall. Let's get closer to our wall and take a look at it:

Terrible, nothing to say. When you completely remove the wallpaper and peel off everything superfluous, then something like this it will look like. Everything must be removed to concrete. White spots on the wall may remain if they are pieces of ingrained old putty or adhesives that have already bonded to the concrete and are not subject to intensive cleaning.

After some time, you saw that somewhere the foam did not fit well (or a piece of foam fell out); in another place, an unfinished chip was found in the wall with a depth of about 1-2 cm; Plus, in 2, 3 places it would be nice to close up small potholes. So imagine that in order to solve such a seemingly simple task, you again need foam, plaster and putty.

But you threw out the remnants of dry mixes, and the polyurethane foam is over. At the same time, no one in the store will sell you 0.5 kg of putty, 0.5 kg of plaster and 2 “zilch” of foam. So you need to buy everything new, in large quantities, while spending a lot of money.

Someone will say: oh, why did I throw out the remains of the plaster ahead of time, they would be so useful to me now. But, there's nothing you can do, you need to go to the store. And then, the worst thing, having again bought more than necessary, take out the rest in the trash. And this happens quite often.

Some manage to store materials, as they say, until the next repair. However, it must be remembered that all materials have an expiration date: usually it is 6 months, a year, two, and then they must be thrown away. What to do in this situation? It turns out there is a way out!

If you look in stores, then there is the so-called putty-putty. In some cases, it can replace the usual putty, and in others, plaster. I worked with putty putty on mounting foam. It looks like this:

A distinctive feature of this material is that the thickness of the embedded layer can reach up to 10 cm! Yes, yes, not mm, namely cm! Putty-putty is sold already in ready-made, has good (adhesion), environmentally friendly, does not crack even with a large thickness of the seal.

If you take the putty on the mounting foam, then it is also moisture resistant, has protection against fungi and mold. It is intended for finishing both internal, and external rooms. Here is an example of when this putty can be used. As I said earlier, the part of the wall that was not foamed in the junction with the ceiling:

Putty here will come in handy. For work, it is better to take a rubber spatula. The material must first be mixed well:

The foamed joint of the double-glazed window adjoining the wall is also perfectly sealed with putty putty:

In general, you leveled the walls, closed up the holes. Don't be lazy, walk around and look around again. And if it suddenly turns out that there are places for embedding, then do not rush to buy huge packages of dry mixes for making solutions from them. Just remember the wonderful putty-putty.

How to fix a hole in drywall on a wall

Consider two options for solving the problem, when the hole is small and large.

How to close a small hole

If the hole in the drywall is small - up to 5 mm in diameter, then plaster, putty will not be required for this:

You can seal such a hole with acrylic sealant. The sealant should be acrylic, not silicone. After all acrylic sealant easy to stain, but silicone does not. So, we take a gun and begin to carefully fill our hole with acrylic:

Excess that got out, smear with a spatula:

If the acrylic has rubbed in, take the gun and push it into the hole until it comes out. And then again gently smear with a spatula.

The hole is sealed. The next day, when the sealant dries, it remains just to lightly sand it with zero-grade sandpaper:

How to close a big hole

If the damage is more extensive:

then no sealant is needed. For these purposes, putty is required. But first you need to remove the chamfer:

and cut off excess paper that may later peel off. This will require a blade or knife, you can even clerical. So, the chamfer was removed, the protruding paper was cut off:

After that, you need to prime the hole. We take a brush, a primer and carefully prime it so that the primer gets both inside and outside:

When the primer is dry, take the gypsum adhesive mixture and carefully fill the hole with it:

You need to score properly, do not rush:

After the mixture has dried:

sanding with sandpaper:

Then we take a knife and in this area we draw a rectangle about 10 cm by 15 cm with the tip of the knife, cutting through only the paper so that the damage is in the middle of the rectangle:

and remove the paper:

Moreover, you need to remove the paper carefully, completely, to the plaster, so that there are no paper scraps left in the area of the rectangle.

After removing the paper, prime our surface:

When the primer dries, we glue a piece of sickle (plaster mesh) cut to its size into our rectangle:

After that, we apply putty to this area and begin to putty:

As the putty dries, it remains only to lightly sand the repaired area with sandpaper.

This is where the article ends. Today we have discussed in detail how and with what to close a hole in a wall and ceiling on a concrete and plasterboard basis.

Concrete coatings are used in a wide variety of areas: in the installation of floors, concreting surfaces in both industrial and residential facilities, construction of highways and much more. However, concrete has a low tensile strength, so during the hardening process, the mixture shrinks slightly and the structures shrink. Because of this, small and more serious defects appear on the surface. In this case, it is required to seal cracks in concrete, which is carried out using different technologies, depending on the type of damage and the cause of its occurrence.

Types of cracks in concrete

Some novice or unscrupulous builders prefer to simply cover up a hole or any other defect with putty or mortar. However, before closing a hole or crack in a concrete wall and other foundations, it is worthwhile to figure out what exactly caused such troubles.

Defects are of several types:

Surface. Such cracks often appear after pouring the foundation during the drying of the sand-cement mortar, if the mixture was prepared without observing the required proportions of the components, poor-quality components were used, or there was not enough water in the mixture.
Shrinkage (also called hairline cracks). Defects of this type are considered the most dangerous, since they cause not only the deformation of the fundamental foundation, but also the entire building as a whole. This leads to a decrease in strength. Flaws of this type appear with an uneven load on the foundation and with the wrong selection of the cement composition.

Temperature shrinkage. Cracks of this type appear during the hardening of the concrete base due to the exothermic reaction that occurs between cement and water. Very often, when erecting walls and ceilings, novice builders do not take into account the freedom of deformation, as a result of which thermal stress occurs in the concrete mass and defects appear on the surface.
Cracks and holes that appear due to poor-quality reinforcement. If the frame to reinforce the structure is too weak, then it will sag under loads, which will also lead to the formation of defects. In addition, reinforcing rods may begin to oxidize. Due to the appearance of corrosion, the material increases in size, breaking the concrete mass from the inside.

Outdoor concrete surfaces are also prone to cracking. The external environment contains chemically active substances that create favorable conditions for the appearance of defects.

In addition, sharp temperature drops, which can occur both on the surface and in the very thickness of concrete, have a destructive effect. At the same time, not only cold air, but also ultraviolet radiation has a detrimental effect.

It is also worth paying attention to the width of the cracks, since in some cases such defects are not critical.

Permissible crack sizes

In the construction industry, there is such a definition as the permissible crack opening width, which is determined according to DBN V.2.6-98:2009 based on operating conditions:

The size of cracks should not exceed 0.5 mm if the concrete surface is not exposed to weather conditions. That is, it is not affected by moisture, low temperatures and ultraviolet radiation.
The allowable crack opening width may not exceed 0.4 mm, provided that the structure is exposed to the weather.
The width of the crack should not exceed 0.3 mm if the concrete base is in an aggressive environment.
It is not recommended to allow the formation of gaps of more than 0.2 mm when it comes to reinforced structures that differ reduced resistance to the formation of corrosion.

Also considered harmless are horizontal cracks with a small opening, which often appear in reinforced concrete columns.

However, it is important to consider that there are certain operating conditions under which cracking is not allowed at all:

if we are talking about reinforced concrete structures that constantly interact with liquids and gases (that is, they must be impermeable and airtight);
when using structures that are subject to more stringent requirements for their durability.

Having determined the type of defect and the need to fix it, it is much easier to choose than to fill holes in a wall or any other concrete surface.

cement mortars

These compounds are very popular due to their low cost and the ability to repair minor shrinkage cracks in concrete.

Crack repair

Before proceeding with embedding, it is necessary to check the crack itself for the presence of chips around it. If there are any, then in the near future they can turn into holes, so it is imperative to eliminate all exfoliating pieces of concrete. After that you need:

Perform stitching. To do this, using a chisel and a hammer, you need to walk along the entire length of the crack so that its depth is at least 5 mm. If necessary, you can use a spatula to create a recess.

remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and rinse the cavity with water.
Remove excess water and cover the crack with cement mortar (3 parts of sand per 1 part of cement with the addition of PVA). In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the composition covers the entire space of the recess.
Moisten the poured cement with water.

hole patching

If a hole has formed in the concrete surface, in which reinforcement is visible, then the defect can be repaired as follows:

Clean the hole in the concrete and treat its surface with an anti-corrosion compound.
Lay pieces of steel wire with a diameter of about 4 mm in the recess.
After that, the recess is covered with a primer, evenly applying it to the entire surface. In this case, the thickness of the layer of the mixture should be about 3 mm.
Without waiting for the mixture to dry, fill the depression with cementitious concrete cracking compound and make sure that it fills the entire depression. If the hole is too deep, then the cement is poured in several stages. In addition, each subsequent layer must be moistened with water from a spray bottle.
Level the surface with a lath (metal or wood) by moving the tool from right to left.

After the mixture has hardened, the excess cement composition must be removed with a spatula and the surface must be plastered. If the crack was too deep, then leveling is done with a grinder.

Healthy! The cement composition must be poured with a margin so that it is slightly above the floor surface. The mixture will shrink as it cools.

After 24 hours, the concrete floor can be painted or any finishing material can be laid on it.

However, it should be borne in mind that such sealing of cracks in concrete will not give a sealing effect and is not suitable for surfaces to which increased requirements for waterproofing. In addition, the cement composition can be considered as a temporary solution to problems. Sooner or later defects will appear again. If you want to “majorly patch” holes and avoid their appearance in the future, then in this case you can repair defects with resins, specialized repair compounds based on them or sealant.

Long-term repair of defects

When deciding how to repair cracks in concrete for a long time, you should pay attention to this method of processing defects. Resin and mixtures for embedding based on it are suitable for the restoration of screeds, blind areas and various concreted areas or horizontal surfaces.

Repairing cracks in concrete using such compounds has several advantages. First of all, this is the cheapness of the mixtures, as well as their quick drying. On the other hand, the resin allows you to securely fix the seams and keep them from further increase.

So, to eliminate defects, you will need to prepare:

angle grinder and diamond-coated discs;
a vacuum cleaner;
spatulas and a trough for diluting the composition;
primer for concrete;
Epoxy (base A and hardener B);
Fine-grained sifted sand.

Before you close the crack, you need to clean it from dust and dirt. After that, we perform the termination in the following sequence:

We make crack jointing. In this case, the width of the resulting recess must be at least 5 mm.
With the help of a grinder, we cut transverse seams in concrete with a step of 400 mm (the length of the grooves is about 100-150 mm).
We remove the loose layer of concrete and dedust the surface with a vacuum cleaner.
We treat the surface of the defect with a primer, and fix the transverse grooves with repair brackets.
We prepare a solution of resin (base), hardener and sand according to the instructions on the package with the composition.
We close the defect with the resulting mixture and quickly level the surface, since the setting time of the resin is only 10 minutes.

The best epoxy compounds

When it comes to the best materials for repairing cracks in concrete walls and other surfaces, the most effective today are:

Epoxy resin of domestic production ED-16 and ED-20 costing about 2,000 per 3 kg. The hardener will have to be bought separately (it costs about 300-500 rubles).
Epoxy 520 resin from the Czech manufacturer Spolchemie worth 3,500 rubles per 5 kg.
German composition UZIN KR 416, which will cost 2,700 rubles for 0.75 kg.

Also, compositions from the Italian manufacturer Sika are very popular.

However, it should be borne in mind that this method of correcting defects is not suitable for processing holes that form in concrete bases that are under strong pressure from water. In this case, it is worth using a sealant.

Use of sealants and self-expanding tapes

It should be said right away that this method repairing defects is very expensive, so it is most often used in the repair of concrete bowls of suburban pools. However, despite its high cost, the use of sealant and self-expanding cords has its own advantages:

the possibility of processing a defect of any type;
complete tightness;
possibility of installation work in cold weather conditions.

For work, in addition to the standard set of tools, you will need:

mounting gun;
self-expanding tape or cord;
chisel and brushes;
concrete sealant.

However, before you cover up the flaw, you need to measure the dimensions of the cracks and purchase the right type of sealant and tapes, depending on this. For example, if the hole is 60 mm deep, then an 18 x 23 mm cord will do.

Not the next step is necessary:

Expand cracks and remove dust from them.
Install the cord in the recess.
Fill the remaining space with sealant.
Smooth out the protruding composition with a spatula.

After completing the work, you do not have to guess how to putty the surface or caulk it. It is enough just to apply the composition and level it.

If speak about the best lineups of this type, the most popular are:

Domestic ELASTOSIL PU 20 worth 280 rubles per 600 ml.
Composition from the French manufacturer Rubberflex, which today is sold at a price of 300 rubles per 310 ml.
Tape PLUG Russian production cost about 260 rubles per linear meter.

injection

Also, when deciding how to seal holes in a concrete wall in the most effective way, especially if not only a crack has appeared, but water also flows through it, you should pay attention to this method.

Injection technology involves the introduction of a special composition (polyurethane or epoxy resin, microcement or waterproofing mixture) into the thickness of the concrete using special injection pumps that create strong pressure.

To perform such restoration of defects, it is necessary:

Make holes in a checkerboard pattern on both sides of the gap.
Install packers in them (special tubes through which the solution is supplied resemble a dowel) at an angle.

Pour in the solution.
Pull out the tubes and cover the surface with building compound.

So, we looked at how to fix a hole in a concrete wall on our own, but what if we are talking about aerated concrete?

Features of sealing cracks in aerated concrete

Cracks in aerated concrete are formed as often as in conventional cement-sand monoliths. To close them, work is performed in the following sequence:

A layer of collapsed building material is removed from the wall or any other aerated concrete surface and dust and dirt are cleaned.
The gap is primed. For this, it is recommended to use a 50% aqueous dispersion of PVA and water (ratio 1:3).
Cracks are sealed depending on their dimensions. If the damage is single and its width does not exceed 0.4 mm, then the gap is expanded to 10 mm and any building compound is poured into it (cement or special glue for aerated concrete can be used). If the width of the defect is up to 10 mm, then it is better to use a porous adhesive for sealing and widen the gap to 20 mm. In the event of a defect up to 20 mm wide, it is recommended to use an adhesive or cement composition, after adding coarse-grained crushed stone from aerated concrete to it.

After completing the work, it is necessary to close the treated surface with a plywood sheet (fix with self-tapping screws) for 3-5 hours.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

It often happens that when preparing an apartment for repairs, it turns out that all the walls are full of holes and resemble Swiss cheese. Holes and strobes remain from old wiring, nails for cabinets and shelves, former sockets and switches, and simply from plaster that has fallen off with a piece of wall. The ceiling window in the bathroom is also an eyesore. But it is not in vain that they say that the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing. Let's roll up our sleeves and start repairing defects, especially since there is nothing complicated here.

Closing small holes

To begin with, we clean small holes on the wall from screws or dowels with a nail of a smaller diameter. We blow it with a compressor to expel dust from there, we moisten it with plenty of water to equalize the surface moisture and the raw repair composition. The resulting holes are filled with putty to the maximum depth. The final touch is sanding flush with the main surface.

What to do with the middle hole in the wall?

Repairing a hole from an old outlet or a carefully removed utility pipe is not much more difficult than getting rid of a small hole. The principle of surface treatment is the same:

We remove all parts falling off the wall. Including suspiciously staggering ones - they can bring a lot of trouble at the end of the repair.
Using a brush or vacuum cleaner, remove crumbled pieces and dust.
Spray the surface liberally with water from a spray bottle.

For better adhesion of the solution to the wall, it is necessary to use
We fill the hole with a solution of sand, cement and water (3: 1: 1) or use a ready-made plaster mixture let dry.
We control the drying process: if cracks appear, we rub it with a primer, leveling the surface. Dry, and then, if necessary, repeat the priming.
Finish with a sander or by hand using medium grit sandpaper.
After complete drying, we can assume that the hole is sealed and the surface is ready for finishing.

Drying of the solution takes at least 12 hours. During this time, no manipulations with the treated surface can be performed.

Through holes from pipes are pre-supported on one side with a piece of plywood. Having closed the surface on one side of the wall, we similarly carry out the procedure on the other.

How to close a large hole?

Sometimes it happens that when repairing walls, not only pieces of plaster fall out. They can be joined by broken pieces of concrete or brick. In this case, it is necessary to use additional reinforcement of the wall surface.

Similarly to the previous cases, we clean the hole from everything superfluous.
We drive in dowels or screw in powerful screws. If the pothole is large enough, they need to be additionally tied with wire.
We remove debris and dust with a dry brush or vacuum cleaner.
Wet the surface with plenty of water.
In a standard cement-sand mortar, add broken brick or crushed stone.
With the resulting mixture, we close up the fallen piece of the wall, let the solution stand and dry.
If necessary, we plaster the surface of the entire wall or locally a section of the hole, followed by drying and overwriting the cracks.
Now you can start finishing.

Apply cement mortar in thin layers, allowing them to dry thoroughly. A thick layer is guaranteed to crack or fall off.

What to do with large holes in the wall?

After inaccurate dismantling of pipes, large holes remain in the walls. To restore the integrity of the surface, you will first have to lay the main part of the breach with bricks. We expand the hole so as to make the masonry even. Then we lay out the brick on the mortar as the main patch. Further manipulations are carried out according to the algorithm described above.

Fixing holes in drywall

Carefully remove a small piece of old wallpaper around the hole. On a wet surface, we apply gypsum diluted with water with a knife. Glue a new piece of wallpaper on top of it. You can also stick a decorative application on the damaged surface.

If the GKL is damaged by a “fallen” locker, the repair algorithm will be as follows:

Draw a square or rectangle around the hole with a pencil, capturing the cracked surface.
With a hacksaw, cut a hole along the marked lines.
From the wrong side, we fasten two parallel tires to the drywall with screws, on which the patch will hold. The number of tires increases depending on the size. Can be used as a frame wooden slats, durable plastic, metal profile.
We transfer the contour of the cut piece to a new sheet of drywall and cut it out as accurately as possible.
We fix the patch to the rails previously screwed to the wall, driving the screws so that the caps do not protrude above the surface of the sheet.
We seal the seams with gypsum putty.
We remove irregularities with sandpaper.
We produce further primer either in the area of the former hole, or on the entire surface of the wall.

Construction or overhaul houses are usually entrusted to professional builders. Minor defects (for example, holes in the wall) are most often eliminated on their own. To do this quickly and efficiently, you should familiarize yourself with different approaches to solving this problem.

To repair a damaged wall, prepare a suitable mortar, with which it is easy to repair the damage yourself, ensuring optimal strength and durability. The composition is selected taking into account the area and type of hole or crack, as well as the defect location zone. Before you give preference to any option, you should familiarize yourself with their pros and cons.

1. Putty.

With its help, various bases are leveled, including a concrete wall. There are several types of putty mixtures, each of which has its own characteristics.

Cement putty. Judging by the name, its basic component is cement. Such a mixture can close up holes in concrete both from the inside and from the outside of the building. The material is characterized by high strength and resistance to moisture. The disadvantage is the long drying time. Cement is non-plastic, so the patched wall is often covered with a network of cracks. For this reason, there is a need to apply a second layer of finish.
Gypsum putty. It is not prone to cracking, it can be applied immediately in a thick layer to close the defect. Its minus is instability to moisture, fear of temperature changes. The scope of the material is dry heated rooms.
Acrylic putty. She is not afraid of dampness, the wall after repair is perfect. However, the polymer mixture refers to the finish. It is applied in a thin layer and does not allow covering a badly damaged base. Another disadvantage of this variety is the rather high price.

If the cracks in the concrete are small, it is enough to mask them with a thin layer of the finishing mixture. For deeper gaps, a cement or gypsum composition is chosen. But none of the putties are used for sealing through holes: The connection will be leaky.

2. Mounting foam.

This universal material, irreplaceable at installation of window and door blocks, and also at elimination of cracks and cracks in concrete walls. When buying, please note that there are two types of mounting foam:

one-component - it can be used without prior preparation;
two-component - the components are combined using a special mixer or a construction gun.

Foam at an exit from a cylinder increases in volume, filling cracks of any size. At the same time, the mass adheres well to concrete and quickly hardens, providing high density enclosed area. The only negative is the possible shrinkage of the material. Mounting foam allows you to close deep holes of small sizes due to the fact that it is supplied from a pressurized cylinder.

3. Repair mixture.

This best material, in order to cover up large holes and reliably repair a wall of a house or a balcony from the outside or inside. The repair mixture has the following advantages:

high degree of adhesion;
frost resistance;
mechanical strength and durability;
stability of characteristics regardless of temperature;
antiseptic properties.

Having decided to eliminate a hole in a wall or ceiling, you need to choose the appropriate mixture - for a vertical or horizontal surface.

Step-by-step technology for eliminating defects

To eliminate a small hole in the wall, prepare the following materials and tools:

knife, nail or screwdriver;
paint brush;
a vacuum cleaner;
narrow spatula;
sandpaper;
deep penetration soil;
one of the finishing and repair materials: cement or gypsum putty, alabaster, mounting foam, a mixture of cement and sand (1: 3).

With a hole depth of more than 50 mm, the list is supplemented with pieces of brick or foam, as well as a wide spatula for applying plaster. To get rid of a defect in a concrete wall with your own hands, proceed in the following order:

With the help of a knife, an awl or a nail, a crack or hole is cut. The loose layer of the previous finish is cleaned so that the fresh “patch” does not fall off after drying.
The remains of the old putty or plaster are carefully cleaned with a dry rag, brush or vacuum cleaner.
After cleaning the hole, it is wiped with a wet sponge or cloth, impregnated with a primer for better adhesion of the repair material to concrete.
Now you can close the hole with the prepared mixture (a large hole before this is laid with a brick or foam). After the surface has dried, it is rubbed with sandpaper to a smooth state. If mounting foam was used, before stripping, you must first cut off the excess.
To finally repair the problem area, it is sealed suitable wallpaper or treated with finishing putty followed by painting.

Choice of hole filling methods

It is necessary to understand in more detail how to seal holes in concrete in specific situations. For each of them there is a standard scheme, supported by practical experience.

1. Holes in the wall on the balcony.

In this situation great importance has the preservation of a thermal protective circuit. To eliminate a small hole or crack, a frost-resistant sealant is used. If the wall is badly damaged, it will be more difficult to repair the balcony: To get rid of the defect in the concrete wall with your own hands, the steps are performed in the following order.

Cracks or holes are filled with foam (the transverse dimension of the insert must be 20 mm less than the diameter of the hole).
The gaps between the foam and the contour of the hole are foamed with sealant.
In order for the wall of the balcony to acquire a flat surface, it must be covered with a repair mixture. To do this, a polymer plaster mesh (cell 10-15 mm) is attached to the foam plastic with metallized adhesive tape. Then a layer of DSP is applied, after which it is puttied and treated with sandpaper.

2. Holes from drilling.

Extra holes in the wall appear if you need to re-hang the picture, attach the lamp in a different place or change the place where the wall cabinet is attached. How to close the resulting hole? To this end, the unnecessary dowel is first removed. A self-tapping screw is screwed into it to a depth of 15 mm (so that bursting does not occur), its cap is captured with pliers. The chop is swung in different directions, then taken out.

To cover up a hole in the wall, proceed according to the standard scheme:

dust and concrete chips are removed from the hole with a vacuum cleaner;
richly moisturize the cavity;
close the hole with putty or repair mixture.

Layer-by-layer application of putty with intermediate treatment with abrasive sandpaper will help to carefully cover the defect. Thanks to this technique, the wall will turn out to be even, without deepening.

3. Holes after pipe replacement.

During such work, the wall breaks through, and deep cracks are obtained along the perimeter of the hole. There are two ways to carefully close a through hole.

Scheme with concrete solution. To close the hole, pick up a piece of cotton fabric right size. Cooking concrete mix from sand and cement, moisten a rag in it, fill a hole in the wall around the pipe with it. The homemade "seal" is carefully rammed so that its ends do not stick out. When the insert dries, it remains to cover the irregularities with liquid concrete and putty the surface.
Scheme using mounting foam. The hole is filled with sealant, the dried mass is cut off. The height difference is leveled with a sand-cement mortar. To make the wall smooth, it is rubbed with sandpaper.

Concrete is strong, durable and solid construction material. However, over time, it undergoes various deformations (cracks, chips, holes, cracks). There are many reasons that affect the formation of defects - from the rearrangement of furniture and sockets to the shrinkage of the building. The process of sealing holes in your own hands is simple, but you must adhere to right technology and sequence of elimination of defects, as well as to take into account the nature and size of the gap.

Reasons for the formation of defects

Concrete, like other building materials, has a degree of wear and a service life. The quality of a building material is determined by such parameters as the composition of the material, the proportions of the components, the type of aggregate, vibration, weather conditions, etc. In addition to low-grade material, the formation of holes and holes in the concrete wall is caused by many factors:

Uneven shrinkage of the structure and vibration. It occurs due to incorrect distribution of the load on the walls of the building or improper laying of the foundation. Subsequently, gaps and cracks form in the wall. With significant deformations of the structure, collapses of floors and walls occur, therefore, the root causes are first eliminated - the supports, the foundation are strengthened and issues with shrinkage and vibration load are resolved. Only after that work is carried out to seal the holes.
Impact of natural conditions. Temperature fluctuations, active solar radiation, strong wind negatively affect the condition concrete masonry. First of all, external seams, stair floors and the upper floors of the building are affected.
Drying of the concrete solution over time leads to the appearance of holes and cracks. Reinforced concrete structures are characterized by through cracks and gaps.
Repair work. Relocation of sockets and switches, pipe laying, rearrangement kitchen furniture, fastening cabinets, chandeliers, plumbing, air conditioning leads to the formation of various kinds of structures.

Tools and materials for restoration

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the scale of the restoration and prepare the right tools. concrete pavement restored using the following tools:

cement;
sand;
ready-made concrete solution;
brick fragments, stones, rags;
gypsum;
primer;
antifungal agents for walls;
putty.

Necessary tools for sealing most defects:

vacuum cleaner to remove dust;
eye protection goggles;
sandpaper for cleaning the surface;
brushes of different diameters;
narrow and wide spatula;
dowels;
knife, screwdriver.

Depending on the size of the hole, the amount of materials and the set of tools changes.

Step-by-step instructions for sealing small holes

After removing a nail, screw from the wall, moving a shelf or cabinet, small holes are formed. You can cope with sealing such a hole with putty or concrete mortar and a few tools. The sequence of work on the restoration of minor defects includes the following activities:

expanding the hole with a screwdriver, knife or nail for deeper penetration of the mixture;
cleaning the hole with a vacuum cleaner or a brush from dust and small debris;
spraying with water for moisturizing;
priming the surface with a sponge or spray gun for better adhesion and less consumption of putty material;
after the primer dries, putty is applied and the surface is leveled;
cleaning the surface with sandpaper after drying.

Fixing big gaps

Holes of significant dimensions are a consequence of dismantling work (transfer of electrical sockets, switches). To seal such holes, you will need a primer mixture, cement mortar or gypsum, crushed stones or chipped bricks, finishing putty, spatulas, sandpaper.

Work on eliminating defects includes 5 stages:

Cleaning gaps from debris and dust. A vacuum cleaner or brush is used.
Treatment of the problem area with a primer mixture.
Filling the hole with crushed stone or brick fragments mixed with cement (gypsum) mortar. Thus, the problem area will be strengthened, and the consumption of putty material will be reduced. The resulting mixture is well compacted to avoid the appearance of voids. Cement mortar is prepared from 3 parts of sand and 1 part of cement with the addition of water. Ready-made compounds for concrete walls, tile adhesive or building gypsum are also used. The mixtures are diluted according to the attached instructions to the consistency of thick cream.
After the patch has dried, puttying work begins. If necessary, the remaining voids and cracks are filled. Putty dries out within 10-12 hours.
The finally dried area is leveled with sandpaper or a grinder to the level of the main wall.

The mixture may fall out of large holes after drying. To restore the integrity of the surface, the main part of the pothole is laid with bricks on a concrete mortar. The hole is pre-expanded. Further restoration work is carried out according to the above scheme.

Proper timely assessment of defect size and selection the right materials will make it easy to cope with the restoration on their own.

Elimination of through holes

Often, through cracks and holes appear in concrete structures after the transfer of communications and plumbing. The technology of laying a through gap consists in alternately closing the hole with plywood or a board from 2 sides. First, a filler is placed in the hole, after which a concrete or gypsum mortar is applied.

With closed access to one side of the hole, installation is carried out according to the following instructions:

the site expands, excess debris, dirt and dust are removed;
the opening is moistened;
a primer is applied;
a fulcrum is created for the filler using either self-tapping screws (4-5 holes for dowels are drilled in the concrete wall along the edges or self-tapping screws are screwed in);
after installing the fastener, empty areas are filled with filler (stones, foam plastic, chipped bricks or a cloth soaked in the solution) and filled with the prepared mixture;
the dried area is puttied;
after hardening, the putty is rubbed with a fine-grained mesh or sandpaper to the level of the wall.

When using rags as a filler, it is necessary to saturate them with a solution. After that, the entire fabric fits tightly into the hole and is filled with a solution with the addition of small pebbles (so the filler is better compacted).

The concrete mixture is easily prepared with your own hands from cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. Water is added until the solution has the consistency of thick sour cream. Ready mixtures are also diluted with water until a homogeneous mass is obtained. The technique for filling such holes is shown for both wet rooms as well as dry.

Repairing a gap with polyurethane foam

Large holes, cracks and potholes in the concrete wall are sealed mounting foam:

The problem area is deepened, cleaned of dirt and dust.
The area is moistened with a spray for better adhesion of the foam to the surface.
Before spraying, the foam can is shaken, the product is applied from the bottom up. The foam increases in volume, so the area is not filled to the full depth.
After drying, the excess foam is cut off with a sharp knife a little deeper than the wall level.
The required area is leveled with a solution until completely solidified.
The patch is puttied, and after drying it is polished.

Foam has a high ability to penetrate into the most inaccessible and shallow areas. In 24-48 hours, it fills the desired area, after which the excess is removed.

For repair work with potholes in rooms with low air temperatures, frost-resistant mounting foam is used. Restoration of deep seams, cracks and interpanel discrepancies requires the presence of a special device - a foam gun, which will provide the best quality and convenience of work.

The sequence of sealing the seams with foam does not differ from the elimination of holes. deep cracks and the gaps foam up in layers. After complete drying of one layer, the next one is applied. When working with polyurethane foam, care must be taken, as it adheres tightly to clothing and the body.

Elimination of other defects

In addition to holes and gaps, cracks, joint cracks and chips form in concrete walls. Repair work to eliminate cracks in the joints is slightly different from sealing holes:

The gap expands along its entire length by 1 cm with a grinder, the edges are aligned.
The crack is cleaned with a sharp object from the remnants of dirt and dust.
For better adhesion, it is wetted twice with a primer mixture. The second layer is applied after the first has dried.
The crack is sealed with a mortar, and after solidification, it is polished with sandpaper.

If gaps occur at the junction of concrete with brick, a building mesh is used. The cavity is filled with a mixture, a steel mesh is placed on top. After drying, the remaining area is filled with a cement mortar with the addition of lime.

In addition, water-resistant mixtures of concrete and paint are used to fill the gaps. Cement is poured into a container with paint and mixed until a thick mixture is formed.

Small cracks are lubricated with a composition of wood glue and powdered chalk, brought to a creamy consistency. The resulting mass is applied to the cracked area, the excess is removed.

Small holes after laying cables, pipes of small diameter are covered with silicone, large gaps are foamed.

Delaminations of plaster and chips are cleaned, treated with special antifungal agents (if necessary), primed and plastered in several layers. Each layer dries completely before applying the next. This sequence of application will save the surface from further cracking. The final step is to clean the area with sandpaper or a grinder. Cracks are repaired as soon as they are discovered, as they grow rapidly.

The time and method of eliminating defects in concrete structures are closely related to the size of the hole, hole or crack. Minor damage is covered with a ready-made putty mixture. Large holes require following step by step instructions for restoration. All problem areas are pre-prepared, cleaned, plastered, and then sanded.

Subject to the technology and algorithm of actions to restore the gap, the solution securely fixes the patch, keeping it from cracking and peeling. Guided by restoration schemes various kinds damage, even an inexperienced person can easily close a hole in concrete with their own hands.