Supply and exhaust ventilation in the steam room. Ventilation in the bath: the right device on ready-made examples. Ventilation design in the dressing room

The presence of ventilation is a prerequisite for a comfortable presence in the bath. For the intake of fresh air and the output of the exhaust, ordinary ventilation is most often performed - they open the windows, doors, and vents. Such ventilation is called natural. Unfortunately, it is not always effective. For example, in large baths with a washing compartment (pool), forced ventilation is more effective in order to eliminate unpleasant odors, quickly dry surfaces and create an optimal microclimate.

The principle of operation of such a system

Any ventilation system consists of at least two holes. One of them is inlet, the other is exhaust. Fresh cold air, entering the steam room through the inlet, mixes with warm "local" air. The heat flow is distributed throughout the room. At the same time, the exhaust air is repelled to the exhaust opening and removed through it to the street or to other rooms of the bath.

If there are not enough natural reasons for the circulation of air currents, a forced ventilation system is arranged. Its essence is that fans are installed on one or both ventilation openings - supply or exhaust. They provide forced air movement. The supply fan draws in fresh air from the outside with its blades, and the exhaust fan, on the contrary, pushes the exhaust air out.

Often, gratings (slotted, louvered) or plugs are placed on the ventilation ducts, with the help of which they change the size of the hole and the intensity of air circulation.

If the supply opening is less open than the exhaust opening, then ventilation is enhanced. If the air flow speed reaches 0.3 m/s, there is a feeling of draft. This cannot be allowed. Ideally, the air movement should be smooth, slow, which means that the vents should open approximately the same.

Types of forced ventilation

There are the following types of forced ventilation (depending on the purpose of the fans):

exhaust;
supply;
supply and exhaust.

Let's talk in more detail about each.

Exhaust ventilation

In the design of exhaust ventilation there is a fan-exhaust. It is installed on the exhaust hole ventilation system. There is also a supply hole in this type of system. Usually these are air ducts with ventilation grilles, windows with plugs, a gap under the door, etc. Exhaust ventilation reduces the air pressure in the steam room (creates a vacuum), which is compensated by the influx of fresh outside air.

Exhaust ventilation effectively removes harmful gases, unpleasant odors, excess moisture. This is especially true in showers, washing rooms, rooms with a pool, bathrooms of a bath.

The exhaust ventilation device is simple. Usually it includes a fan and a ventilation duct. Sometimes, when a powerful hood is used, the system is supplemented with a silencer.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation almost completely copies the exhaust system. But the fan is not installed to remove the used, but to supply fresh outdoor air.

When the supply system is operating, the pressure in the room increases, respectively, the exhaust air is drawn out through the exhaust ducts, doors, vents, gaps in the floor, ceiling, and walls.

Supply fans work to take in cool (and in winter - cold!) street air. To prevent this from reducing the temperature in the steam room, the ventilation system is equipped with special air heaters. Filters are used to purify the supply air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

This is a combined system consisting of a forced air supply and a mechanical exhaust. In addition to fans, it can be equipped with recuperators, filters, silencers. It is possible to make the supply and exhaust ventilation fully mechanical by equipping it with an automatic control unit.

The design of supply and exhaust ventilation is the most complex. It is very important at the stage of its design to calculate the air exchange in the bath room. The amount of displaced air must be equal to the amount of supply air. This is ideal. But sometimes this balance is deliberately violated in order to create air flows of the desired direction. For example, if there is a bathroom in the bathhouse, then in order to prevent unpleasant odors from entering other rooms, it is artificially created underpressure. By installing a hood with high power. After that, the air from the room is more high pressure will independently go to the zone of low pressure. That is, go to the bathroom, and not to the steam room, showers, sinks.

Organization methods and ready-made schemes

Consider several ready-made schemes for performing forced ventilation.

Scheme #1. Exhaust ventilation

Behind the furnace, 0.3 m from the floor, a supply air vent is equipped. The exhaust fan is equipped on the opposite wall, a little higher - 0.4-0.5 m from the floor. Fresh air, getting into the steam room through the inlet, passes through the stove, warms up and rises to the ceiling. Gradually cooling down, it goes down and is drawn in by the exhaust fan. This forced ventilation scheme is quite popular due to the simplicity of the device and the rapid change in air flow.

Scheme #2. Forced ventilation

In a large steam room for a quick change of air, it is advisable to equip forced ventilation. For better circulation, air flows are directed not from the bottom up, as with natural ventilation, but from the top down. An inlet with a fan is equipped behind the furnace, 0.5 m above its level. The exhaust hole is placed in the lower part of the opposite wall, at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the floor.

Supply ventilation according to this scheme works as follows. With the help of a fan, cold air is forced into the steam room through the inlet. Once in the range of the furnace, it quickly warms up and rises to the ceiling. Cooler streams are forced down and out through the exhaust port.

Scheme #3. Supply and exhaust ventilation

This scheme is intended for ventilation equipment in the bath steam room and shower room. A supply air vent with a fan is placed above the stove. The minimum distance from the heater is 50 cm. An exhaust hole (without a fan) is made on the adjacent wall next to the floor, away from the stove. In this case, the diameter of the exhaust duct should be 2 times larger than the diameter of the supply duct.

Another exhaust outlet with a fan is located in the shower room adjacent to the steam room, under the ceiling. Air enters the shower room from the steam room through a gap under the door.

Some mounting features

After choosing a ventilation scheme, it's time to move on to its installation. To do this, you will need the following devices and materials:

Fan. Heat-resistant, moisture-resistant fans with the ability to control the speed are suitable for the bath. According to the installation method, they are channel or radial. Channel pipes are placed directly in the duct, and radial ones - at its outlet.
Ventilation box. Can be solid - made of plastic or galvanized steel. Or flexible, made in the form of a corrugated pipe on a metal frame.
Ventilation grates. Production material - according to your preference.

The ventilation system is mounted according to the following plan:

According to the chosen scheme, holes are made in the walls (top and bottom). It is desirable that they be planned at the stage of building a bath.
Ventilation boxes are installed in the holes.
Mount (in a box or outside the hole) a fan - exhaust or supply.
Connect the fan to the electricity network. The connection scheme will depend on the desired way to turn on the fan. The fan can be turned on in the following ways: simultaneously with lighting, by pressing a separate switch, through a motion sensor. Shutdown can also be done in different ways. For example, either when the light is turned off, or after a scheduled time (when using a timer).
Ventilation grilles are placed on the ventilation openings.

Here is an example of a fan installation:

Competent installation of forced ventilation will help you organize active air exchange in the bath rooms. As a result, you will get rid of unpleasant odors in washing and bathrooms, provide " easy breath» in the steam room, protect yourself from defeat carbon monoxide.

The scheme of the steam room is such that it maintains a constant high temperature, and the air must be moist, saturated with water droplets. But indoors with such climatic conditions, mold will definitely breed, and combustion processes will be disrupted due to the lack of oxygen, not to mention the fact that people inside will have nothing to breathe. Therefore, it is necessary to design ventilation in the bath. We will talk about it in this article.

Do you need a ventilation system

When building a steam room, novice builders try to fit all the rails and lamellas as tightly as possible, thereby ensuring the absence of temperature losses. This is actually true, but if you do not leave natural openings or artificially created bends, then significant smoke is possible if the stove is powered by wood or coal. Any fuel leaves traces of burning. Carbon monoxide in high concentrations will lead to loss of consciousness and the possibility of death, especially if people in the room are steamed, with unstable pressure, dilated blood vessels.

Required for the following tasks:

creating the necessary microclimate;
airing and drying wood so that mold or fungus does not occur;
the removal of carbon dioxide, there are people in the steam room, so a constant supply of fresh air is needed;
facilitating the combustion process, for which oxygen is important;
elimination of unpleasant odors;
preservation of lamellas and shelves in their original form.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system in the bath

The entire ventilation network can be divided into natural, which is located in the walls, roof and foundation and is laid at the beginning of construction, and forced, which is activated only when using the steam room.

Both types work as follows: the exhaust oxygen is displaced and the space is filled with fresh air. The flow has two ends - inflow and outflow, respectively, you need at least two holes located according to the rule: supply hoods are lower than outflow ones.

Another nuance of the principle of operation - all the gas is taken from where it goes. That is, if the message occurs with the street, then everything should go there. Similarly - if in the next room, which is also possible. If the inlet and outlet are in different temperature conditions, then the flow will not form. However, it is recommended to do the inflow / outflow of air from the street, since even in the dressing room the air will be humid and insufficiently enriched with oxygen.

Proper ventilation in the bath in the steam room

When designing a building, you immediately need to calculate where the mines will go, what diameter they will be. And the holes themselves and the dampers on them are placed directly after facing with lamellas. There are 4 types:

Finnish - 130mm inflow, 100mm exhaust.
Swedish - 100mm inflow, 80mm exhaust.
Russian - 100mm inflow, 100mm exhaust.

The most common solution, alas, is the lack of a ventilation system.

The size of the holes directly depends on what you want to end up with: a Russian steam room or a sauna.

Consider an example calculation. If the steam room is 3 m by 1.5 m with a height of 2.5 m, that is, approximately 10-11 m3, you need a 20 kW stove. In this case, it is better to use a natural type of air exchange - with an air inlet 10 cm from the floor at a distance of 30 cm from the stove, and a diagonal outlet - under the shelves at a height of 80 cm.

At the same time, it should be taken into account: from under the lining, the valve works only in the only closed position or in the open position. It should not be regulated, as it is made airtight, otherwise the steam will leave. Both outlets do not need to have the same radius, but if more efficient and faster circulation is needed, the first one can be made a little larger or two valves can be installed in different places. It is strictly forbidden to make it smaller than the supply device. This is against the safety rules.

It is imperative to make valves on the ventilation openings, which will hermetically adjoin the opening in the closed state - at the time of kindling and heating the steam room. In winter, these doors will be half closed, because the greater the temperature difference, the more air circulates. The hoods should be at the top, and the inflow should be at the bottom. This will allow oxygen to ventilate naturally. The most popular option today: 100 mm - supply, 80 mm - exhaust.

Types of ventilation

Some 5 years ago, no one spoke about the ventilation system in the bath, moreover, many argued that it was not needed in the bath. Enough presence of a window leaf. Times have changed, and now everyone is for ventilation in the bath. There is forced and natural. The chosen option depends on the area of the steam room, climatic conditions, as well as on the desire of the owner.

Natural

It works on the difference in temperature and atmospheric pressure differences inside and outside. This is a very effective and long used method. There is a nuance for arranging such circulation in the steam room. In the most heated room, due to the natural laws of physics, it is difficult to provide uniform heat. Usually the higher, the hotter, and the floors can remain quite cold. The task of the builder is to think over the system so that the draft does not blow on the legs, and unbearable heat does not accumulate on the ceiling. This can be achieved by dividing the flows into two or three extracts.

Forced

This is an electronic control that depends on temperature regime. You can turn the fresh air supply on and off as desired. Can be controlled with digital device- how many degrees should be maintained throughout the entire time of the procedure, as well as what humidity the system needs to be adjusted to.

Typically, such complexes are created for commercial purposes, therefore they are much more expensive than elements for natural outflow, and installation can only be carried out by specialists.

One of the main disadvantages of using electronic systems is the possibility of leaving the fan on, which can lead to ignition of the wiring and fire.

Combined

When buying an electrical device, pay attention that they have the maximum protection of all wires and electronics from moisture.

How to make ventilation in the bath through special products

These are gratings made in the walls at the floor level (20 cm from it) and the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to achieve the maximum distance from each other, this can be achieved if they are mounted diagonally, for example, one is installed between the door and the stove, the second - on the opposite wall.

Elements for the device of the circulation system, as well as chimneys and tanks for the Russian steam room can be ordered from Ferrum distributors, which are represented throughout Russia. Wide choose and the quality of products will help you build a bath complex with your own hands with Ferrum products. can be viewed on the website.

Where to place the cold air inlet

It is located below. You can create it in the wall, but then it is necessary at the design stage to lay a pipe or shaft that will lead inside. In this case, it should be taken into account that fresh air will come from an adjacent room, and, therefore, it should not go out into the street, but into the same room. There is a minus - usually the shelves are installed opposite the entrance structure, and the circulation is felt by everyone present.

Another option involves the installation of air under the sun loungers. In many ways, this is the optimal location - it does not see through, does not spoil appearance. But just reaching out to it can be difficult to adjust the position of the damper. In such cases, during the bathing procedure, the upper outflow doors are moved, and then both are opened for ventilation.

And another common and winning option is to place the inflow behind the stove. This simultaneously promotes circulation and heating of coals. But there are a few "buts" - sometimes the stove is installed in the wall, then there is simply no way to organize a damper there. And one more thing - because of the intense heat, plastic doors will melt here and wooden doors can start to ignite, so only metal ones will do.

With the output outflow is easier, it can be mounted:

in the ceiling, but then you have to make an additional box for output through the roof, because if the wet steam is in the attic, they will rot wooden rafters;
in the wall - best option, is laid even at the time of the construction of the building.

How to make ventilation in a steam bath: hole sizes

The exact size of the airflow depends on humidity, temperature difference, minimum and maximum values. Experience suggests that the most optimal non-parameters are 10-15 cm, if desired, the outflow diameter can be increased, while flow systems cannot be larger.

In this case, it is necessary to install dampers. It is with their help that you will achieve the required radius when weather conditions change.

It is a common misconception that a person does not have enough oxygen to breathe if the supply is too small. This is not true. For an ordinary person, one cubic meter of air is enough for 1.5 hours.

Floor ventilation device

Why it's important: Wood flooring is affected by a number of factors, with moisture coming in from below, from the ground and foundation, and from above, from steam. Plus, condensation builds up. Such conditions are favorable for the onset of decay and for the spread of fungi and mold.

The most effective is the installation of vents under the floorboards. At the same time, there is no draft and the system can be used in the process of taking bath procedures. Another plus - ventilation occurs as if from the inside. That is, when aired, it dries top part floor covering, and when the hood is working - lower.

To make this as productive as possible, when draining the steam room, take it to the side so that moisture does not spread under the floorboards.

Ventilation of the foundation of the bath

If you already take care of this when laying the foundation, then you will not have rot and mold in the construction. Air vents with a diameter of 110 mm or more should be installed on all four sides. This will ensure acceptable circulation even if the bath complex is located in the middle of other buildings. It is best to lay these pipes opposite each other.

Ventilation of various auxiliary rooms

The rest of the rooms should also have their own circulation.

Attic

A gable window is not enough, as steam often enters this space and can negatively affect the rafters. It is optimal to arrange the inflow under the roof canopy, and the outflow - on the ridge. So the flows will pass from bottom to top on both sides.

Washing

For the organization of air exchange, forced ventilation is most often used, which directs the flows towards the vestibule.

Ground floor

Owners of private houses can use the basement for a bath. It's possible, but it comes at a cost. Now the integrity of the whole house depends on the safety and efficiency of the circulation system. Already at the design stage of the building, it is necessary to provide for the distance between the walls and the insulation, otherwise condensate from the temperature difference will accumulate on the surface.

It is required to create forced ventilation, since natural ventilation cannot be provided due to the impossibility of installation near the floor (after all, it is underground). We recommend entrusting this issue to professionals.

shower room

Taking into account the fact that in the rest of the rooms there is already an inflow and outflow of oxygen, it is enough to design air from the fans in the ceiling or at the top of the wall so that the unpleasant smells of dampness come out. You should also do if the bath complex has a toilet.

dressing room

Here, you should also take special care of the circulation of air flows, since due to the close proximity to the steam room, a strong temperature difference and condensation on the walls form in the room. Similarly, the intake-outflow option is suitable. You can also arrange windows that allow you to quickly ventilate.

How to arrange ventilation in the bath and steam room - calculation of the scheme

We have already said about the standard value: 1 cubic meter of space requires 24 cubic centimeters of bends. When choosing pipes, they often stop at pipeline pipes - they are inexpensive and effective, but we recommend assembling such a system from Ferrum stainless chimneys, they have a long service life and do not deteriorate from constant interaction with moisture. The standard diameter is 10 centimeters. So, the cross-sectional area is 78.5 cm2. One such box is enough for 3.27 m3 of room volume.

We calculate the number of cubic meters. Suppose that the steam room has dimensions of 2 by 2 m2, the ceilings are also 2 m high. We multiply everything, we get 8 m3. We divide this by 3.27=2.45. Round up to three. As a result, you need to organize 3 boxes with a diameter of 10 cm for the entire steam room.

Ventilation device

There are several solutions:

The location of the window next to the stove or under it. At least 25-35 cm should remain above the floor. In this case, the flow moves down, then rises along the opposite wall.
Both holes are on the same surface, which is not recommended, but occurs. Then, be sure to install a fan on the hood. This is true when the steam room has only one wall facing the street, and the rest are adjacent to residential areas.
The cracks in the flooring, if you have a multi-layered leaky floor, can draw in air, pass it through the space under the covering, and then return it up again. This ensures good ventilation of the floorboards.
If the inflow is located opposite the stove, then it will work only if the heating is on.

All these types are presented schematically in the picture:

In the article, we talked about how to properly ventilate the bath, showed diagrams and explained the structure of the steam room. Design your bath complex together with high-quality products from Ferrum. On the site you will find chimneys and accessories for arranging a bath. Bathe in pleasure with Ferrum.

Useful videos

Arranging a sauna is a very interesting process, but troublesome. It is necessary to take into account a good hundred little things, so that it is not only comfortable, but also safe for health. The latter also depends on air exchange - improperly equipped ventilation in the sauna can form a draft or, conversely, lead to too much heating of the room!

The steam room is a key place for ventilation

The most important room of any sauna or bath is, of course, the steam room. And in the steam room, the high temperature largely depends on ventilation, and not only it, but also the quality of rest. What is the use of hot air if it is stale and saturated with damp smells and sweat products?

In addition, we must not forget that any steam room is a place with high humidity, and therefore an increased danger for all elements (especially wooden ones) to become a breeding ground for mold and fungus. And what sauna can do without electrics now? Even with a minimum of electrical equipment, you need to conduct a banal light, make a switch - that's the risk of getting an electric shock when high humidity!

In order not to have to constantly think about high humidity, it is better to think about high-quality ventilation once. Thinking, of course, will not be enough - you also need to implement the plan correctly! Since school days, we all know that hot air has one pronounced feature - it always tends to rise up, pushing cold air down. Thanks to this, the natural circulation of air in the atmosphere on a global scale and in each room in particular is ensured. Applied to the steam room, thanks to this law of physics, we get the hottest places on the upper shelves and relatively cool on the lower ones.

According to generally accepted standards, the air in the steam room should be updated at least three times per hour., optimal recommendations - all seven times! Such air exchange can be ensured using conventional supply and exhaust ventilation - hot air, rising to the ceiling, exits through the exhaust vent, as a result of which a slight vacuum is created in the intake duct, and fresh air enters the room. Such a system is applicable to the toilet, but, unlike them, has its own characteristics.

But the task is complicated by the fact that the hottest steam, which is located at the top level of the steam room, should not immediately slip into the hood, otherwise you will be left in a cold sauna, which urgently needs to be heated. If this happens, it means that the hood is equipped incorrectly! Sometimes this is due to the impossibility of the correct arrangement of elements due to the architectural features of the building, in which case it is necessary to consider options for ventilation combined with a mechanical method.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the sauna - arrangement scheme

To begin with, consider the classics - natural supply and exhaust ventilation. This type of drawing law is correct location inlet and outlet openings. The correct one is when the inlet is located near the stove or under it (if we are talking about the electric version), while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Also, cold fresh air will enter the steam room through a specially left 5-7 cm gap under the door.

The inlet openings must be located strictly below so that the cold air can have time to heat up before it enters the area where people stay.

For proper air circulation, one exhaust opening will not be enough. On the opposite side of the inflow, the first hood is located at a height of about a meter, the second is under the ceiling. Both openings must be connected by an exhaust duct, which leads either to the main ventilation system or to the chimney. If the air duct goes separately, then you need to remember that the higher the pipe rises above the roof level, the more thrust will be in the system - it is important not to overdo it!

So that you can regulate the intensity of air exchange, it is imperative to install shutters on the air outlets. How does such a system work? Let's imagine a standard steam room with a stove-heater at the far wall and a door at the near one. As expected, a gap was left under the door, and the hoods are located on opposite walls: near the stove and at the door.

Before heating the steam room, it must be properly ventilated so that there is fresh air in the room. The doors and outlets are then closed, leaving only the inlet valve open. The steam room will heat up quickly enough, since the hot air will soon have nowhere to go, which means that there will be no air discharge in the inlet.

When the sauna has warmed up, we still leave the upper channel closed, while opening the lower channel a little - thanks to this, air circulation in the steam room will begin, while the upper layers of the warmest air will not leave the room. Cold air will again begin to enter through the supply channel, but due to the proximity of the heater to the resting people, it will get already warmed up, gradually rising up and replacing the stagnant air.

Thanks to this air exchange, the room will have fresh and warm air. Vacationers may not even notice such a change, enjoying the process. Such a system provides economical handling of already heated air, which means you will save on coolant consumption. In addition, problems with mold and fungus will not affect you - thanks to this circulation, all elements will dry properly.

Combined system - when there are no other options

Structural features do not always give us the opportunity to provide ventilation strictly according to the above scheme. For example, a steam room has three adjacent walls with other rooms, and the inlet and outlet must be placed on the same wall. In this case, the correct location must be observed: the supply should be at a distance of 20 cm from the floor, while the outlet should be located at the same distance, only from the ceiling.

Cold air currents, entering the room, will pass through the stove, heat up and rise up, refreshing and warming the room. The disadvantage of this method is that the air circulation is too intense, which must be tightly regulated using valves on the holes.

There is also an option in which the inlet is not located below, under the stove, but above the heater. If the outlet channel is located at a higher level on the opposite wall, we will get a relatively normal movement of air masses. True, it may not be enough, therefore, in such cases, a fan is placed in the outlet to drive air. This will be combined ventilation.

Classic mistakes - what not to do

The most common mistake in the arrangement of supply and exhaust ventilation is the location of the ventilation openings at the same level. As a result, we get a draft below, and hot air at the upper levels will practically not take part in air exchange.

If you make only one hole for the air outlet under the ceiling, even with the correct placement of the inlet and outlet, the mixing of hot and cold air flows will be too fast - the steam room can cool down in a few minutes! Usually, the upper opening is used only in cases where you want to quickly reduce the temperature or completely ventilate the room.

Ventilation in the bath is not only comfort, but also an urgent need. It is needed both during and after bath procedures:

In the process, it is important so that no one gets burned. The danger of carbon monoxide poisoning is always present - it is the result of incomplete combustion of fuel. Therefore, ventilation is necessary for the safety of people in the bath.
Besides air that is inhaled and exhaled becomes "waste", and it must be removed, replacing it with a new one, with a greater proportion of oxygen.
regulate the temperature, monitoring the condition of people, you can also use ventilation, especially when you need to do it urgently.
Any stove runs on oxygen (combustion is oxidation), so it needs ventilation. And with a competent device, you can also get fuel economy.
And, finally, drying after, on which the durability of the structure, especially its wooden parts, directly depends. Ventilation can be good prevention of fungus and decay.

At the same time, bath ventilation is quite complex and diverse in design. Of course, the issue can be reduced to financial investments, but in fact, you just need a good ventilation specialist who will find the best solution in each case. We will consider all the possibilities and features of the device.

The ventilation system in the bath: what can it be?

Ventilation systems in baths are divided at once according to several parameters:

forced or natural;
exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust;
local or public.

Let us explain that the forced one differs from the natural one by the presence of fans that forcibly drive air in or out, the local one differs from the general exchange one in its local character, for example, the chimney above the stove is local ventilation, and the vents are part of the general exchange.

As for the supply, exhaust and their combination, these are indications of which air is directed where: the exhaust drives the exhaust air out, the supply air drives fresh air in, and their combination creates a balanced air exchange inside the room.

This general terms for any ventilation, but our task is to consider a bathhouse that has its own specifics. We advise you to familiarize yourself with (8 types) along the way.

Useful video

Watch a short video, as one of the options for organizing ventilation in the bath:

Natural ventilation in the bath

It works on the principles of physics, which say that heating makes air lighter and causes it to rise. And an increase in the volume of cold air accelerates the movement of hot air. Knowing about this property, you can not install any devices at all, there are enough ventilation holes, the location of which will make some of them supply air, and others - exhaust.

And in the bath there is a stove, and this is a very favorable circumstance for the direction of air circulation. If the natural ventilation inlet is located near the floor next to the blower, then the stove itself will draw in fresh air, without any fan. Also, traction is improved by raising the finished floor just above the hole under the firebox.

The exhaust opening is usually made on the side that is opposite the wall with the supply opening, but this is not the only option.