Do-it-yourself stand for a grinder made of wood. Cutting machine from a grinder: how to make a handy tool with your own hands. The simplest model

Bulgarian is an indispensable tool for construction, installation and other work. The main task of this design is to cut metal or stones at high speed. If you use special nozzles, you can carefully sand the base of the workpiece, clean it and remove various contaminants. However, in order to be able to use this tool in other areas, you will need to buy or make home-made devices for the grinder.

In some cases, the grinder is used as a wall chaser. To do this, you will need to increase the width of the protective casing, and then make a plate for the support. Such a tool can be used both in a set with one disk, and with several. In the latter case, it will be necessary to improve the attachment point. If necessary, the upgraded cover with the supporting element can be easily removed, and then use the angle grinder in normal mode.

It happens that you need to clean up hard-to-reach grounds. Masters for such purposes use a special nozzle, which is able to take out a disk of small diameter beyond the dimensions of the grinder. The rotation in this case will be transmitted from the main drive using a special belt drive (rubber belts are used). Cutting using a similar design will not work, but you can easily remove scale from the weld seam.

Today there are enough a large number of various nozzles with which you can expand the scope of this tool. Among them, the main ones are the following:

devices for sanding the bases and removing the old layer of paint;
beds;
protractors.

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What do you need to make homemade tools for grinders?

Most owners prefer to purchase ready-made nozzles in building supermarkets. Such elements are not too expensive, and there should not be any problems with the search for devices. However, some people prefer to make similar parts for the grinder with their own hands.
In order to make devices of this type, it will be necessary to purchase items such as:

electric drill with a small number of different drills;

screwdriver;

hacksaw for working with wood;

discs for grinders, the diameter of which is 125 mm;

wooden bars;

metal corner;

duralumin steel plate;

self-tapping screws.

First of all, you need to cut a plate of metal. Next, make a corner out of it. To do this, you need to make a triangle-shaped cutout in the workpiece shelf and bend it at a right angle. In the design of a metal plate, you will need to drill 6 holes with a diameter of 4 mm. Self-tapping screws will be installed in these holes, which can fix the handle, corners and a wooden beam. All holes must have special recesses for the screw heads.

The handle is attached to the bar with several screws. The dimensions of the elements for fasteners should be 3x35 mm. As a result, it will be possible to obtain a part in the shape of the letter G. All elements, together with the plate, are assembled into a single structure. Attachments for the grinder must be fixed with several 3x20 mm self-tapping screws.

At this stage, the basis of the structure is made. Next, you need to install metal corners. There should be several similar elements, with dimensions of 75x30x55 and 45x60x60 mm. It should be noted that the first corner must be straightened from 90 ° to 60 °. If this is not done, then it will not work to fix the manufactured structure on the grinder. After the metal corners are installed, the tool itself will need to be fixed on them. It is connected to the structure with a separate handle on one side, and on the other with a bolt and nut. The latter will be needed so that the screw does not unscrew from the structure in the process of cutting the material. You can not mount the nut on the handle, as it will be held by hand. At this stage, the design for cutting is made.

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How to make a frame for a grinder with your own hands?

Such devices for angle grinders are used in order to be able to facilitate the efforts made by the user to work on cutting workpieces. It should be understood that holding a tool with a large weight in your hands for several hours is quite difficult. Therefore, most craftsmen want to make a special fixture for a grinder, which is called a bed. With the help of such structures, it is possible to carry out work on cutting metal blanks with one hand.

First of all, you need to make a box of wood. You can make only one side, so that it is possible to fix the grinder. All other walls must be removed, and special legs should be attached in their place.

However, for such a tool to be effective, the first step is to adapt it to existing conditions. To do this, you will need to dismantle the casing of the angle grinder for protection. Next, put a disc on the tool. When it is pressed against the side wall of the fixture, you need to make a mark where the gap was made for the stroke of the nozzle or disk. It should not be too wide, otherwise foreign elements may get inside the structure. However, it is worth knowing that the gap can be expanded. This should be done in cases where there is a need to replace nozzles without completely disassembling the entire structure. Several wooden bars can be used as supporting elements. After that, you can start sawing various workpieces.

Such devices for the grinder will allow you to saw off pipes, fittings, cut sheet material and so on. When using any nozzle for a grinder, such a machine can cut or grind even stone or ceramics (for example, tiles or brooms).

It consists of:

bed, welded or screwed from a thick plate and squares;
do-it-yourself triangles from sections of profile pipes;
pendulum part, cut and bent from sheet iron;
handles and fastening unit grinders;
corner limiter.

The bed is a regular slotted plate, to which the squares and the ring for the spring are welded.

The movable part is sawn from the sheet and bent in the appropriate places. Approximately 1/3 of the length of the pendulum part, the axis is strengthened - a metal rod with a caliber > 10 mm. At the back, an axis for the spring is strengthened - a screw (bolt) M8 or M10.

The attachment point of the grinder with a handle is installed in front. It is welded or screwed to the movable lever. The knot must be securely fastened to avoid injury.

Triangles from profile pipes are welded to the bed. The axis of the movable mechanism of the machine is installed on them. Caps are welded or screwed onto the triangles to prevent the axle from jumping off.

Instead of triangles from shaped pipes, ordinary triangles made and bent from a sheet of iron can be screwed to the frame. A spring is attached to the frame ring and the bolt on the moving part.

Attach a vise to the bed for ease of cutting.

Cutting at an angle

You will not find such devices for the grinder anywhere. Very often it is necessary to cut off pipes or squares at some angle with your own hands. The simplest is to make a turntable with holes, which is reinforced with an axle on the bed.

When the mechanism is first fastened, a hole is drilled in the horizontal plate of the bed (straight through the corresponding hole in the circle). This is necessary to fix the circle. A vise is installed on top of the circle with their own hands.

The mechanism works like this:

Turn the vise wheel to the desired angle.
Insert a bolt into the holes in the circle and the bed.
Tighten with a nut.

Advice: To rotate to any angle, make semicircular slots, weld the retainer bolt with the thread up, and change the nut to a “wing nut”.

Machine with rail mechanism

There are other devices for cutting parts. For example, a cutting device using a rail assembly from furniture boxes.

Two such mechanisms are screwed onto the frame. On their upper part, a metal plate with a knot is installed to secure the grinder. A travel stop (angle) is screwed in front of the rails.

The whole device is installed so that when fixing any nozzle for the grinder, its lower part is located at a distance of 1 cm from the frame. This can be achieved by strengthening additional plates between the rails and the frame.

support fixture

In order not to hold a heavy tool in your hands, you can make a simple device that will help you when working with a grinder. Its simplest version consists of two different-sized plates screwed together.

One of them is made of a steel, duralumin or textolite piece 30 * 12 (15) cm. In the third case, 5-6 mm material is taken. The second plate is made of steel 120*50 mm. It bends in the middle at an angle of 60 o. You can take a corner of the appropriate size and bend it.

In a small plate (corner), 4 simple holes are drilled for its installation on the main surface and one with an M8 thread to secure the grinder. The working tool is fixed with an M8 bolt with a lock nut, which is needed so that the bolt does not turn out due to vibration.

For greater convenience of working with this device, additional nodes have been developed. Their main function is precise cutting (along the line).

The first node consists of the same plates, to which are added:

square 30*30*420 mm;
corner 55*30*80 mm;
two bars of wood 27*30*35 mm and 120*60*25 mm.

The bars are screwed together with screws in the form of the letter "G". A triangle is cut out in a square at a distance of 12 cm from the end, and it is also bent "L-shaped". The connected bars are placed on a square, and the whole structure is screwed with screws (caps from below) to the main plate.

A corner is installed on one side of a long bar for more reliable fixing of the handle of the grinder.

A regular board serves as a limiter and guide during operation. The master rests a fixture on it, so that when moving, a perfect line is obtained.

The second node consists of the same two main plates. A square is screwed to the main bottom with their own hands, which plays the role of a cutting limiter. In the main substrate, it is desirable to make several rows of holes for different widths of the part to be cut.

An angle grinder or grinder makes life easier at work and at home. It can be used to cut sharp corner, cut off the protruding part of the profile or pipe, make a hole in the tile, etc. It is inconvenient to keep the tool in your hands all the time. Hands get tired, and the cut is uneven. To make your work easier, here are some homemade options for cutting machines with a holder and a bed that can be made from scrap metal.

Bed for angle grinder from profiled pipes and shock absorbers

The grinder is quite a heavy and powerful tool, so the frame for holding it in hanging must be durable. Profiled metal pipes provide such strength. The manufacture of a holder for a grinder made of wood is only allowed from thick lumber. However, even in this case, it is impossible to guarantee that the structure will withstand the load. When working with profiled metal pipes you will need a welding machine and equipment skills. In addition to the grinder and welding machine, also prepare for work:

two rear used shock absorbers from the car;
pipes suitable for the diameter of the shock absorbers for crimping;
profile pipes and metal square corners 25 mm for collecting the base;
two brands 35 × 25 mm to stiffen the base;
two corners 40 mm for vertical supports;
metal plates for fixing shock absorbers 190 × 75 × 5 mm;
square corner 45 mm L = 120 mm for connecting the angle grinder with shock absorbers;
automotive nuts and bolts 12 mm for tightening the plates.

Before starting work, we are working on a drawing of the future frame. To make it easier for you to do this and avoid common mistakes in the manufacture of the structure, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the analogue in the store. Inspect the bolt fasteners, the location of the supporting elements and other details. It is advisable to be guided by the principle of assembling the frame specifically for your angle grinder model. After familiarization, it remains to transfer the dimensions and make a drawing on paper.

A distinctive feature of this design is the extension of the holder. As a result, we will get an improved version of the pendulum saw with the ability to adjust the holder not only up and down, but also forward. To bring this idea to life, you need a couple of old car shock absorbers.

Since the walls of the shock absorbers are thin, and they will bear the main weight of the structure, it is necessary to give them strength. To do this, take a pipe suitable diameter and cut crimps. In metal plates, we drill holes of a suitable diameter for tightening the holders with automotive bolts, weld cut pipe swages to them.

We proceed to the assembly of the base. Its dimensions are 46.5 × 40 cm. In order not to spend money on buying new pipes and corners, we will use scrap metal, anyway, after assembly, the parts will be painted. The back of the base consists of two squares 25x25 mm, and the front of one. Two corners of the same section are welded on the sides. With an indent of 10 mm from the side parts, we fix the tees 35 × 25 mm. To the back of the base we weld two 40 mm corner-racks 32.5 cm long at a distance of 9.2 cm from each other. From the inside of the vertical corners, we drill holes for mounting the holders. We connect the racks to each other with a plate, which is welded to the right angles of the supports.

The case is made, we begin to assemble the machine. First we fix everything on the wire. We check the correct assembly of the structure, the quality of the cut and, if necessary, adjust. If everything suits you, you can move on.

For the convenience of adjusting the stroke of the holder forward, we cut out a corner of a suitable length (in the photo) and make the appropriate holes in it. Departure at the ends of the shock absorbers is fixed with a threaded stud and nuts.

To fasten the angle grinder, we make a fastener, the parts of which are welded together. It is fixed on threaded fasteners, it is easy to remove and replace if necessary, change the diameter of the disc. Dimensions are selected individually according to the angle grinder model. The finished part is attached to the outside of the shock absorber corner.

After turning, all parts are painted. To keep the position of the holder with the tool in a horizontal position, in addition to the upper compression of the shock absorber and the frame, we attach fasteners for a stud with a diameter of 8 mm. The return movement of the pendulum is provided by a door spring, which can be purchased at a hardware store.

We left gaps of 1 cm between the side corners and the brands for a reason. We need this space to move the desktop. Given the width of the corners and the gap, we make holes on the sides of the table for the adjusting bolts. We paint and attach the table to the base. If you need to move work surface, slightly unscrew the bolts and change the position of the table forward or backward. Additionally, for the convenience of cutting metal, we recommend making guides at 90 and 45 degrees.

Cutting machine with a pendulum lever from a transverse shaft

To assemble the frame part and the pendulum holder, you will need shaped pipes, and for the cantilever mounting, you will additionally need steel strips and a metal rod. The stand, which will also serve as a working platform, is made of steel sheet. To the pendulum lever from the segment profile pipe We weld the transverse shaft, observing the perpendicular when fastening. As bearings that will ensure the rotation of the pendulum, we use ready-made bearing assemblies. We press them on the shaft from both sides. The connection must be rigid, otherwise unexpected longitudinal or transverse displacement may occur. When the bearings are pressed in, we retreat 5–6 cm from the edge of the stand, weld the assembled pendulum with the support nodes.

We make a U-shaped bracket from a steel strip. This will be the bracket that holds the gear housing of the angle grinder. To fix the case, we drill holes in it for bolts on the sides and in the middle. We bend a horseshoe-shaped clamp from a steel bar and make a clamping bar for fixing the tool body to the pendulum. It is a metal plate 1.5–2 cm longer than the clamp width. We insert threaded fasteners into the holes along the edges of the pressure plate, fixing them with nuts. We try on a ready-made U-shaped bracket and a clamp for a grinder. Using welding or threaded connections, we fasten the parts to the console.

We weld a console with a clamp and a U-shaped fastening of the grinder onto the pendulum lever, choosing the appropriate position for the tool. There are different opinions about how to fix the grinder - from yourself or on yourself. Considering that medium or small angle grinders are used for domestic needs, we install the rotation disk "from ourselves". This will give you better control over the precision of the cut. Be sure to secure the protective cover for safety reasons. According to the weight of the grinder, we select a suitable return spring. After assembling the machine, we test it. We do the first check in idle mode. There should be no vibration, extraneous noise and play. If there are problems, we fix them. Next, take a cutting wheel with the maximum thickness that you use for work, and cut a groove for the disc with the machine. If necessary, the gap can always be widened.

The final stage is the installation of an emphasis for metal and wooden blanks. As a rule, two main stops are installed - for washing down at 45 and 90 degrees. The strips can be welded, but it is better to fix them on a threaded connection. Such structures are easily removed and changed. An additional detail that will facilitate your work will also be a limiter with a measuring ruler. It is enough to fix a metal ruler on the stop and the process of measuring and cutting workpieces to the nearest millimeter will never be a problem for you.

Then your imagination works. You can also equip the machine with protractors, vices and clamps. These grinder tools allow you to make a cut or groove in the workpiece at any angle. At the end, don't forget to paint the machine so that it has a finished look and is protected from the "web of rust".

The simplest rack with a holder from a water pipe and corners

If the previous ideas of racks for angle grinders seemed too complicated for you, we offer you another one that is as simplified as possible, but no less convenient option. For its manufacture, you will need corners of different sizes, water pipe, scrap metal, as well as bolts and nuts for fasteners. Let's start with the platform. Its size is selected individually according to the complexity of your work and the dimensions of the workpieces. In our example, the dimensions of the metal platform are 40 × 27 cm. To give it rigidity and prevent slipping, we fasten it to the table at the corners with self-tapping screws, and also strengthen the stand by welding the corners under it.

To attach the holder to the platform, we fix a corner 50 × 50 mm, equal to the width of the stand. We weld another corner of the same section 17 cm high to it in a vertical position.

After that, we move on to the holder itself. We find an old water or other pipe with a diameter of about 25 mm, measuring its length in accordance with the dimensions of the platform and grinder. To fix the cutting wheel on it along with the tools themselves, we weld two metal plates 5 cm wide and 9.5 cm long to the holder. We weld a nut on the edge of the pipe for attaching the side handle, which must be removed from the grinder. So it will be more convenient for you to lower and raise the rack.

Separately, I would like to talk about another fastening of the holder to the vertical corner. To form a plane, we also weld a piece of a 30 × 30 mm corner to the corner-stand and the pipe. We attach the mobility and reliability of the connection of the holder with the frame in this part due to the M-8 bolt, clamping it from the back side with a nut and a lock nut. When raising and lowering the structure in this part of the rack, the bolt is clamped and firmly fixes the selected position of the angle grinder.

The protective casing of the angle grinder is quite rigid, which allows you to make fasteners in it. On one part we fix the plates with bolts, and on the other, we make an additional attachment point for the bracket, screwing it to the place where the handle was removed. We cut the bracket 4 cm wide and 16 cm long with a small angular bevel, also about 4 cm.

The main part of the rack is assembled, it remains to take care of the convenience of work. As in the previous versions, we fasten the stop from the corner 50 × 50 mm to the platform. For better visibility during the cut, a small upper part corners can be cut off. Now it will be convenient for you to clamp the workpiece with a clamp and make an even cut. Also, do not forget to paint the machine or cover the metal with enamel to enhance its aesthetic appearance and extend the period of operation.

Many individuals are trying to make a universal machine for grinders with their own hands, in which various nodes will be involved, allowing you to increase the ability of the angle grinder at times, but not everyone succeeds. The main differences between these models:

the presence / absence of a bed - a massive metal, wooden plate or frame;
feeder (carriage) for a tool or material - forward / backward;
the presence of a transmitting unit - a belt drive on rollers;
knots for tilting, shifting the material or grinder at a certain angle;

We will try to cover different devices and tell you about most of them. The designs of some devices have been developed recently and have not yet been published on the World Wide Web.

The simplest model

She presents a do-it-yourself grinder holder. It serves to facilitate the work with the tool and is necessarily made of metal or metal + textolite. The wooden model of such a node will not withstand the loads and will shatter into chips.

The device itself is a multi-dimensional plates fastened together:

welding, if the device is made of metal;
screws (bolts) if metal and textolite are used.

The first plate serves as a kind of mobile platform and is made of duralumin, aluminum or steel 2-3mm sheet 35 * 12 (15) cm. It can be made of textolite, but then you have to get a 5-6 mm piece.

The second plate represents the emphasis. It must be made necessarily from 4 (or more) mm pieces of steel 125 * 50 (60) mm. It accounts for the main load, so you should not take thin material, in order to avoid injury.

On one half of the plate, 3-4 holes are made with a 4.2-4.5 mm drill to fix it on the platform, and in the middle of the second half - one with an 8 mm drill. Holes are also made in the platform itself and drilled from the back side for countersunk screws.

Instead of the second plate, you can use the usual 4 mm corner of approximate dimensions and drill it accordingly. Then the plate (corner) is screwed or welded to the main platform so that the cutting disc of the tool is 3-5 mm from the edge of the bed.

The corner is bent under 60 about to the frame. The cutting power tool is fixed to its upper part with a bolt with a lock nut, which is necessary to avoid turning the bolt during the inevitable vibration during work. The device is assembled and ready to go.

Additional nodes to the device

First option

To make work easier and more precise cutting(along the line) and the fixture is complemented by two metal squares and two wooden blocks, whose dimensions are:

30*30*420mm;
55*30*80mm;
27*30*35mm;
120*60*25mm respectively.

Measure from the end of a long square 12 cm and bend it with the letter "G". Appropriate holes are drilled in it and in the main platform, which are drilled for countersunk screws. Combine the square and the plate, put bars on it and screw it with screws.

Advice: For easier operation, install an additional handle

Second option

A home-made universal limiter-guide is used, which is made by hand from the following parts:

2 strips of metal 75-100 cm;
1 square 30-70 cm;
2 roller units from drawers.

It's going like this:

Guides from the boxes are fixed to the main platform.
2 strips are screwed on top, making sure that their ends are equidistant from the main plate.
A square is strengthened at the ends of the strips, with a bend down.

To fix the roller units, ordinary clamps or a special screw clamp. It consists of a metal plate 5-8 mm long with the main platform, 5-8 cm wide and 5-6 cm screw (bolt) M5-M8.

in the middle of the bed, a recess or hole is drilled and a thread is made for the M8-M10 screw with a length of about 10 cm with a tap;
screw it from below;
the latch in the middle is “perforated” with a drill 0.5-1 mm larger than the caliber of the screw;
put it on the screw, putting it on the moving elements of the roller mechanism;
fixed with a wing or ordinary nut.
With such a machine for a grinder, you can cut large-sized objects: doors, shields.

DIY cutting machine

For sawing small-sized parts, channels, squares, pipes, fittings, a home-made pendulum cutting machine is used. If you use the appropriate stones, then they can grind things, cut tiles, ceramics.

The cutting machine is made by hand from the parts described below:

bed - made of thick metal and four squares:
racks for the rolling unit, made of the same metal;
a swinging mechanism on which the grinder is strengthened;
guide made from a piece of square;
handles (for convenience) and the lowering limiter of the rocking unit.

Bed - plate (metal not less than 5 mm) with slots. Ordinary squares are welded or screwed as legs. If you don't have the appropriate piece, take a few strips of thick metal and attach them to the leg corners. Then you don't have to make cuts.

The racks are made of shaped pipes, but it is easier to screw on rectangular metal plates of 10 mm or more, drill holes in them from the side and insert the rocking unit on the axis. As it is used a long bolt with a nut and locknut.

The swing unit is made from strips screwed together, or a blank is cut from a sheet. At a distance of one third of the length, a 10 mm axle or a long bolt is fixed. In the back, a smaller axle or a ring for a return spring is strengthened. Front connect the handle and the angle grinder mount

Advice: To prevent accidental injury, securely weld this assembly with your hands/

The limiter and guide stop are ordinary segments of squares. The first is welded from below to the swing unit. The emphasis is set on the frame. At the back, a ring for a return spring is welded to it.

But such a cutting machine is a little dangerous. You have to hold the part in it with one hand, and press the handle with the other. For safe operation, either two people are required (one holds the product, the second presses the handle) or the installation of a conventional vice on the frame.

Cutting parts at an angle

On the design described above, it is impossible to perform other operations, for example, cutting a part at the right angle or cutting a part to a certain size. Simple improvements will turn the cutting machine into a universal machine.

For cutting at an angle, 2 types of devices can be used:

Stationary - rigidly fixed.
Universal swivel.

The first of them is easy to make from several ordinary squares. They are screwed onto the frame at a strictly defined angle to the cutting axis, being a kind of guide for the parts to be cut.

The second one is harder to make. This is actually a rotary device. Usually it is performed in the form of a circle, but a square can also be used. It is fixed on the main frame. A hole with an M10 thread is made in it and a bolt is screwed in from below, which acts as an axis.

A circle is put on the bolt and tightened with a nut with a stopper or with a lock nut so that the gap is at least 0.5 mm. Any clamp, corner (guide) or vice is installed on the circle. The latter option is preferable because of the versatility of the vise.

Three options for fixing the angle when turning have been developed:

Hole-locking.

A number of holes are made in the circle at commonly used angles. They install it and drill another one directly through the disk in the frame (closer to the tool disk), the second through the hole opposite. Then, the M8-M10 thread is made with a tap or left as is (for cotter pin inserts).

Device operation:

scrolling the disk, we combine the holes of the circle and the frame;
we twist bolts (screws) with a wing-head or insert a cotter pin into them.

With the help of special slots and clips.

Has great potential. You can turn your hands to any angle 20 about -160 about. It differs from the first one by the presence of special semicircular slots in the disk.

With the help of swivel or cap strips.

The universality of the third option is obvious. It turns around 360 degrees. If necessary, you can completely rotate the circle with the vise and the trimmed part around the axis several times.

The circle is clamped with ordinary metal strips. 4 screws (bolts) M8-M10 are screwed into the frame from below, locked (for reliability) with nuts. Two of them, located at the instrument, are considered the main ones.

Planks are installed on the circle, making sure that the bolts go into their holes.
Nuts are screwed onto the main screws. As soon as the nut reaches the bar, make another one or two turns and lock with a lock nut.
The other two screws are screwed with “lambs”.

This is how the clamp works. Twist the "lambs", freeing the slats. Remove them from the thread and spread them apart. Expand the circle, throw on and clamp the straps. An extra turn of the nut ensures a reliable clamping of the circle.

Bulgarian is a useful and versatile tool. It is suitable for cutting metal, stone, tiles and grinding surfaces. However, sometimes there are situations in which a stationary machine is more suitable for these jobs. It's good that using certain tools for the grinder, it can be turned into a cutting machine, for example!

Bulgarian machines

Finding a ready-made machine that meets your needs in stores is not difficult. However, the probability of finding a structure that rigidly fixes the grinder and does not telepath during operation is not great, since they are all made of duralumin. For this reason, people who have machines will improve or remake them in every possible way. But there are many serious obstacles here - the materials of the machine are difficult to weld, or, for example, the design does not take into account moments that are important for you - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring. Remaking someone else's is a more difficult task than making your own!

Purchased version of the grinder holder

Making the simplest grinder fixture can be done at minimal cost and within a few hours! In fact, the design will be a metal long pipe, which is both a frame and a handle. From one end, a transverse metal bar is welded, which has two holes for the fasteners of the grinder.

A more reliable homemade version of the grinder holder

From the same edge, the pipe is attached to a small piece of the corner on the movable shaft. Fastening the very same corner to be made on the desktop, or to the floor! On the opposite side of the fastener, a spring must be fixed, returning the entire structure to its original position.

first option

second production option

third production option

That's all - the manufacture of the machine is completed, it remains only to properly fix the grinder. Naturally, this option should be used for the simplest work, and if precise and complex procedures are required, then the design should be more complex.

Making a cutting machine from a grinder for precise work!

Such fixtures for an angle grinder as a cutting machine are made using the following materials and tools: a steel angle, a profile pipe, a metal sheet under the platform (you can use chipboard), a welding machine, a channel, a drill, a shaft, several bearings, a pipe with a small diameter, springs, relays and pedals. Welding, in principle, can be replaced with strong bolts - here you have to use a drill.

It is worth noting that with such an implementation of the machine, it can be easily disassembled if such a need arises.

first version of the design

Details and fasteners

We start making the machine from the frame. An individual scheme will be required for each angle grinder, since each manufacturer produces angle grinders of its own design - in some you will have to remove the handle, and somewhere you will need to invent a stand for the entire angle grinder as a whole! In addition, for different diameters of disks, different frames are needed.

frame

As part of the simplest frame, there are two frames and a common axis. The lower frame must be fixed on top of a platform made of metal or chipboard. For a large grinder, it is better to use metal. It should be ensured that the rotation of the upper frame, on which the grinder is attached, with respect to the lower frame in vertical plane like a pendulum. To fix the starting position, you will have to use a spring. A mount should be welded onto the lower frame, which includes a clamping angle and a movable clamp.

The second design option

Ruler - for this particular case, you can use a movable ruler that has a limiter that is welded onto the tube. It regulates the accuracy of the size, after which it is fixed with the end screw!

Electronics. To increase the usability of your machine, you need to provide things such as a foot pedal or a button (switching using a 12 V low-voltage relay). With the help of this pedal, voltage will be supplied to the angle grinder.

Do-it-yourself video attachments for a grinder

With the help of such a simple device for a grinder, we can free our hands, and at the same time make an accurate, even cut without using a vice, and saving time on measurements also plays an important role. With the help of this design, a cutting saw for metal can be replaced, and if suddenly necessary, the grinder can be easily dismantled.