How to sheathe batteries with drywall with your own hands. How to make a drywall box for a heating radiator. Frame made of wooden beams

Concept modern renovation in housing implies the hiding of all engineering communications. But how to close radiators and pipes with drywall, because according to the housing code it is impossible for them to be hidden in the walls, and the efficiency of the entire heating system will immediately decrease.

There are not so many options on how to hide the batteries, because. according to the housing code, they cannot be hidden in the walls.

The way out is to use drywall in combination with decorative grilles or other design elements.

Features of this finish

In order to hide the radiators of the heating system, a material such as drywall fits perfectly. Its versatility allows you to produce almost any shape, and the surface itself is very convenient for further finishing with various decorative materials. The margin of safety is also sufficient, if you do not create too large loads on the structure. And of course, the pricing policy of materials plays an important role, the price is available with any financial possibilities.

by the most in a simple way such a finish can be an assembly of a structure in the form of a box. This option will require a minimum of resources and a little time.

The second method is more laborious, it is the creation of a kind of niche for each of the radiators. To do this, the walls are finished with the design of slopes for the battery. So, how to sheathe the battery with drywall yourself?

What is needed for this

As in any other method, the batteries, closed under the drywall, are inside the frame structure. The list of materials and tools is as follows:

Drywall. Only moisture resistant, which can withstand high humidity without much damage.
fasteners. The same screws and dowels that are used when mounting any other frame under the gypsum board: dowel-nails, "fleas", wood screws 25 mm.
Mounts - "crabs" and direct suspensions.
In case of installation wooden frame mounting brackets are required.
Perforator, screwdriver.
Roulette, level, marking cord.
Metal cutting tool: hacksaw, scissors or grinder.
Metal profile: UD and CD (rails and racks, respectively).
If the frame is made of wood, then the beam is 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 millimeters.
Serpyanka, plaster corner, gypsum putty, spatulas, for fine finishing of the structure.

The list of certain materials is selected individually depending on the features of the plan.

Box installation

You can create a structure in the form of a box to close the battery with drywall in a few steps. First you need to prepare the heating radiators themselves, clean off the old paint and repaint, and also check the functioning of the system itself. After all, when everything is closed, access to the heating system will be significantly limited.

markup

The installation of the box is carried out directly on the floor, from which the entire construction of the structure begins. The floor surface must be solid.

Using the level, mark the place where the guide profile will pass.
The distance from the radiator should be minimal and not exceed 100 - 120 millimeters.
Also, to stiffen the structure, make marks on the wall where you need to install direct suspensions.
Mark the line where the top and side guides will be.

One of the most important points in the installation of a drywall box is a drawing and marking.

Frame assembly

To assemble the structure, you will need a UD marking metal profile and, if necessary, a rack-mounted CD, as well as mounting material - self-tapping screws and dowels.

A guide UD profile is laid on the mark and firmly fixed to the dowels. Fasteners must "tightly" fix the profile, since it performs the function of the entire base of the frame.
An angular structure in the form of two connected letters "P" is assembled from the same material. The connection is provided by small self-tapping screws - "fleas".
The assembled corner structures are mounted in the guide on the marks.
The same structure from the UD profile is attached to the upper part, as well as at the corners.
Guides are also fixed to the wall with dowels.
The whole structure is interconnected by transverse jumpers from the CD-profile, the connection points are rigidly fixed to the "fleas".

Plasterboard sheathing

The resulting structure is sheathed with sheets of drywall, cut into the required dimensions. Drywall cutting is carried out with a clerical knife according to the marks made earlier. To do this, cut through the cardboard on both sides and break off the desired part. Irregularities along the edges are cleaned with a planer or the same knife.

Sheathing occurs in this way: a sheet is installed on the resulting frame and a self-tapping screw is screwed in with a screwdriver, slightly pressing the cap into the surface.

In the future, the corners of the box are reinforced with plaster corners, and the surface itself is puttied and finished in accordance with the plans.

The opening itself is closed with decorative bars.

Installation of a wooden frame for the box

Do not forget about such material as wood. To assemble such a frame, you can use a beam of 40 × 40 millimeters. This design is assembled as follows:

The lower part is assembled in the form of a rectangle. Connections can be made according to the "thorn - groove" scheme.
The resulting base is rigidly fixed to the dowels or anchors to the floor.
Racks are installed in the corners using mounting brackets.
The top can be assembled in the same way as the bottom. Top part also attached to the corners.

received wooden structure treated with an antiseptic or simply painted and sheathed with drywall.

Niche

This method of sewing up the battery with drywall is more laborious, since it is required to mount the frame on the entire wall. But if during the repair a complete finishing of the GKL room is carried out, then a niche is a great option.

markup

Marking is carried out along the entire wall. Marks are made on the floor and ceiling where the guide profile will be mounted, also on the surface bearing walls note where the racks of the frame structure and additional fasteners in the form of suspensions will pass.

Frame assembly and plasterboard sheathing

For this, the technology of assembling a frame for wall cladding with plasterboard is used.

Guides are mounted on the floor and ceiling.
Racks are inserted into them and connected to suspensions and guides.
A niche is assembled from a rack-mount CD profile. As the main bearing racks, two adjacent ones are used.
The same profile is attached to the carrier rails parallel to the floor surface. In order to connect them, stiffeners are cut off at the ends of the profile. The connection itself is made on press washers.
If necessary, then mount rails for niche slopes. At the same time, guides are installed on the wall to the right and left of the radiator, which are connected to the racks of the main frame with crossbars.

Plasterboard sheathing is done using the same technology as the main walls. Stucco corners are glued to the corners of the niche. And the slopes are puttied and trimmed with decorative materials.

The same principle is observed when assembling a wooden frame. Is that the individual elements are interconnected by mounting corners.

The resulting niche can be closed using decorative grilles or other conceived methods.

There is nothing complicated in the question of how to hide a heating battery behind drywall. The availability of the material, as well as the simplicity of the installation technique, make it possible to do this without much effort and cost.

High-quality screen for the battery: how to make it correctly from drywall

Some new heating radiators look so good that they can be used in visible places. However, old cast-iron counterparts can significantly worsen the aesthetic parameters of a modern room. It will not be difficult to eliminate such a drawback if the corresponding functional product is carefully closed with a drywall construction. To finish the created outer surface, you can use paint, wallpaper, and other decorative materials.

Limitations to be aware of

You can beautifully sheathe drywall with different ledges. But already at the stage of preparation for the implementation of this project, it is necessary to take into account the following important practical details.

A convector-type heating system will work efficiently enough only if free air access is provided to the devices and nothing prevents its subsequent free movement upwards. Blocking these flows will not allow rapid heating. The owners of individual boilers will increase fuel consumption, or electricity. Appropriate holes must be present in the drywall construction.

Cast iron radiators emit infrared radiation. The presence of a solid partition that does not let heat into the room is unacceptable. That is why, the main part of the structure should be created from drywall. A rectangular cutout is made directly in front of the radiator. Latticed metal or plastic screens are inserted into it.

Accident in the heating system. Melting snow that fell on the windowsill by accident. Room cleaning. In all of these situations, it is impossible to exclude the ingress of water on drywall. That is why for the manufacture of such skins it is better to use waterproof types of such building materials.

How to sew up a drywall battery: technology basics and useful tips

The consumption of materials, accessories, changes in the technique will depend on the specific conditions, architectural features premises. But the following tips will come in handy in most cases when it is necessary to sheathe the radiator with drywall:

The least amount of funds will be required if the design is made compact. Here it will only be necessary to ensure a minimum distance of 10-12 cm from the surface of the heater to the inner surface of the walls in all directions.
Before carrying out work, it is necessary to restore the damaged coating of the battery, paint it. It will be necessary to revise the connections to the pipeline system, eliminate the identified malfunctions. Wall defects are also eliminated, gaps are closed in all areas, which will subsequently be covered with drywall sheets.
Next, markup is carried out using improvised tools and a level. When designing the box, it should be taken into account that it will be more durable if it is installed on the floor. Lines are drawn on the walls and on the floor so that the contours of the entire structure are accurately defined.
If the entire wall is sheathed, then it will be possible to hide not only the radiator itself, but also all the pipes of the engineering system. In this case, markings are also applied to the ceiling.
The supporting frame is made of galvanized steel profiles with a section in the form of the letter "P". They are connected to each other with screws. To fix the elements on the walls, dowels are used, which are installed in increments of 20-30 cm. To bend the profiles as needed, you can make cuts on their walls using metal scissors.

If the supporting frame is created with high quality, then it will not be difficult to close it with drywall sheets. Cutting this material into pieces with the right size can be done using a regular large clerical knife. Replace its blades on time to make your work easier.
In order to sheathe any frame shape with drywall securely, keep a small step between individual screws, no more than 12-15 cm. To prevent errors, make consistently and immediately fasten the cut parts. Corner parts (if any) are reinforced with additional galvanized profiles "G" - shaped.

The radiator should be carefully sheathed, all irregularities should be eliminated at the joints of individual elements. This can be done using a mounting polymer mesh and subsequent puttying of such areas. Finishing protective and decorative coatings are applied to the created smooth surface. The opening in front of the radiator is covered with a mesh screen.

In apartments built by the hands of Soviet workers, as in some modern buildings, cast iron radiators heating. These elements do not always fit the general interior of the room - in this situation, you need to think about how to close the battery with drywall and not reduce the level of heat transfer.

According to the existing housing code and redevelopment rules, heating systems cannot be hidden directly into the wall. But close them with an additional wall of alternative material can.

How to hang a battery - on drywall and a removable screen

Plasterboard finishing of batteries is more often used - this material allows you to quickly and easily hide the flaw in the room, make appearance more attractive.

markup

The markup of the future design is carried out using:

measuring tool- roulette, ruler, corner;
descriptive tool- a simple pencil, marker;
precision tool- building or laser level.

Carrying out this stage, it is desirable to adhere to the exact dimensions, limited to whole centimeters. Millimeters are used only in the case of a particularly precise design, for example, for an established interior project.

Before you sew up the battery with drywall and get rid of its unpleasant appearance, you need to decide which way to terminate the markup:

box - a simpler and faster method of work (only the area of \u200b\u200bthe battery is closed and, literally, 12-20 cm beyond it);
wall - a more time-consuming method (the wall with the radiator installed is completely sealed; if the heater is installed near the window, slopes must be made).

In terms of the amount of work, the termination of batteries according to the first method is simpler: a smaller amount of material is used and a small number of construction processes are carried out. In the second case, even fewer building processes are used, but more material is used.

box

When constructing a box, the design takes up little space, covering a little more space than the radiator itself. The depth of such a box depends on the width of the heater (most radiators are narrower than radiators with metal plates).

Note! The edges of the structure must protrude at least 10 cm beyond the edge of the radiator - otherwise it will not be possible to install a removable screen on the front side.

Instructions for marking the box:

Depending on the required position of the structure, a horizontal strip is drawn. If the box hangs, measure the distance from the floor and use the level to draw a marking line. If the structure rests on the floor, there will be 3 lines (two along the edges - depth, one front - the edge of the structure).
It is necessary to set a corner to the bottom face and draw vertical marks - we achieve right angle. With the help of the level, we bring the vertical lines to the required size.
The same marks are marked on the vertical lines, between which a connecting segment is drawn.

The result should be a square or a rectangle (in the case of resting on the floor - additionally marking the base).

Wall

After analyzing the room and thinking about how to cover the radiators and pipes with drywall and do it right, the decision to install an alternative wall comes by itself.

The essence of the solution is that together with the radiator, the entire surface to which it is attached is closed. This method wasteful, since you can get by with small volumes of material by arranging a point box. But the wall is the only way to completely hide the heater from the room with your own hands.

For the wall device, the frame is built to the entire height of the room:

With the help of the level, several vertical lines are drawn on the base for the frame. Step - 60-100 cm. Mandatory lines for profiles in the corners of the room.
From each vertical line it is necessary to extend to the floor. For this, a corner is used. The depth of the floor lines is equal to the width between the main wall and the alternate.
Similar to the floor, lines are drawn on the ceiling - of equal depth and strictly parallel.
The last marking lines are drawn above and below the heater, at a distance of 7-10 cm.

Marking is also carried out on the sides of the radiator - along the perimeter of the device, profiles are needed in which a removable screen will be installed. But to get rid of unnecessary work, you can make basic markings (which are the entire height of the room) directly on the sides of the radiator.

Frame device

Before you close the heating battery with drywall, decorating the interior of the room with this, you need to arrange a frame. For its construction, metal channel-shaped profiles are used, 60-70 mm wide.

In total, in the process of doing the work you will need:

profiles - as the main frame;
screws (40-60 mm) - fastening the structure;
dowels (40-60 mm) - fastening in the surface;
scissors for metal - for cuts, if necessary, bending the metal;
pliers, screwdriver, drill or puncher - an auxiliary tool.

The profiles that are adjacent to the wall are attached first.

On our site you can watch a lot of videos on the construction of frames for drywall, but the main instruction is as follows:

a metal profile is attached by either side or center to the marking line;
a screwdriver leaves a small mark on the wall;
a puncher makes a recess for the size of the mount;
a dowel is inserted into the hole made;
a profile is attached to the prepared place;
fastening is carried out with a screw.

After attaching the metal to the wall, bastings are made in increments of 15-25 cm. Holes are prepared immediately for the entire profile.

By the described process, all the necessary parts of the frame are attached. In the case of attaching a corner of two elements, you need to cut the necessary parts with metal scissors.

When the parts that are attached to the wall are installed, we move on to the depth of the frame:

we cut parts of the profiles of the required size;
we cut both edges of the element at the place of the fold by 4-5 cm;
we bend the middle down, and cut the sides to the width of the profile channel shelf;
we attach the segments to the edges of the main long elements at an angle of 90 degrees towards the room.

The last part is connecting the upper and lower short parts, elements.

Note! When constructing a wall covering the battery, long vertical metal elements are used, so two short ones at the top and bottom are not enough - at least 4-5 pieces are needed.

frame in ready-made must be of a solid construction, not to stagger. If the frame staggers, it means that the fastening was not carried out qualitatively, or there are not enough additional short elements.

Assembly of the structure

The most difficult steps in resolving the issue of how to close the radiator with drywall and not deprive the room of heat were left behind. If everything is prepared, installation is a simple procedure.

Drywall fastening is carried out according to the following method:

a sheet of material is attached to a metal base;
a descriptive tool marks the place of the cut - this is how the material is marked into the necessary pieces;
the prepared part is attached to the corresponding part of the frame and fastened with a screw.

The pitch of the screws when fixing the material in the battery box is 10-15 cm, an example of the location of the fasteners can be seen in the photo above.

It is better to prepare and fasten one part of the material, if you cook everything at once, you can make a mistake due to protruding corners in some places.

Note! When screwing in a screw, it is important to feel the measure - if you put the fastener too deep, you can damage the front side of the drywall.

A removable screen should cover the radiator for ventilation and heat transfer to the room. Its first part, the inner one, is attached to the metal even before working with drywall. Then the main material is arranged, and the removable, outer part of the screen is put on at the last stage.

Finishing work

When dealing with the question of how to close the battery in a room with drywall and not spoil the interior, it is important not to use radically new colors. The best option is to arrange a box or an alternative wall in the general colors of the room. But first you need to prepare the surface for the final finish.

The finishing process proceeds according to the following principle:

Sealing joints between parts of drywall (see also article about). To do this, a small piece of a sickle mesh is superimposed on the seam, then the joint is smeared with putty.
Fastener attachment. It is carried out according to a similar technique - serpyanka and putty.
Puttying the entire structure (see also the article). With the help of spatulas, the entire surface of the product is puttied, whether it be a box or a wall. When the mixture dries, it is leveled by cleaning it with fine sandpaper.

The final stage is the finishing of the product - often it is painting or wallpapering. It is better to use the material that is more in line with the overall interior of the room, if its price, of course, is within the budget.

Sewing the battery with drywall is actually easier than ever, a simple process will take 4 hours on the strength. Giving preference to GKL, you get their main advantage. Drywall - incredible comfortable material, it is easy to mount and easy to bend. Therefore, it will not be difficult to make a box of the desired shape for the radiator. Below is a simple method describing how to sew up a battery with drywall.

You can mask the radiator using drywall constructions.

You can cope with this task yourself, the main thing is to have at hand necessary tools and materials, then the installation process will not take much time.

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Preparatory work

So, in order to sheathe the radiator with drywall, you need to properly mount the frame from the profile. To do this, you will need the following consumables:

profiles metal profiles UD and CD (the differences between these profiles are that one of them is used as a guide, and the other as a rack);
dowels;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
putty knife;
putty;
metal scissors;
decorative lattice;
level;
roulette;
pencil;
GKL itself.

You can use a drywall wall sheet or use the ceiling remaining after the repair, it all depends on the size of the structure itself, as well as on your personal preference.

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Stages of work performed

To begin with, make markings on the floor, so you will determine the location of the UD profile. You will need to step back from the wall 40 mm, because the thickness of the plasterboard is 12.5 mm, and the profile width is 27 mm.
According to the markup, a guide profile must be sewn around the entire perimeter of the opening, so we will get a finished frame for the future design. Professionals advise mounting with screws and dowels, observing an interval of 15 cm.
CD profiles are vertically inserted into the frame on both sides of the radiator, which must first be cut with metal scissors in accordance with the required height from the floor to the window sill. Make sure that the profiles are located strictly according to the given level. Fastening to the frame is best done with self-tapping screws of the “seed” type.
If the distance from the installed profiles of the CD type exceeds the distance to the wall by more than 60 cm, then you will need to install additional vertical guides.
Next, you will need to install guide profiles in a horizontal direction above and below the battery. Thus, you will get a finished frame around the entire perimeter of the radiator, which can be safely sheathed with drywall.
After the frame is completely covered with plasterboard sheathing, feel free to proceed to the final stage installation work– puttying and painting the surface.
Install a decorative grille that masks the radiator.

Useful tips when working with drywall.

When purchasing plasterboard in a store, it is best to choose waterproof drywall. Remember that you have to finish a place in the apartment that is most at risk of flooding.
If after the repair you have enough wooden slats, they may well become a worthy replacement for a metal profile during the installation of the frame.
In no case should the window sill stick out from under the plasterboard structure, otherwise this may lead to a violation of air convection, that is, to blowing warm air and unpleasant condensation on the windows. Moreover, if the window sill covers the battery by more than 50%, this leads to an increase in the likelihood of condensation on the windows.
Not only a decorative grille can become a material for decorating heating radiators. It all depends on the personal preferences of the owners themselves. So, for example, in addition to the well-known wooden fences, they have recently begun to use metal constructions chrome and stainless steel. These designs are great for high-tech interiors.
If you want the drywall seams to be invisible, then chamfer along the entire edge of the installed GKL. Their size will depend on the way you putty the seams. If you use reinforcing tape, then the chamfer is removed at an angle of 45 degrees. If you plan to putty without using a sickle, then the chamfer angle is 20-25 degrees. A special edge planer will help you easily chamfer.
Before you start puttying, use a primer, it will allow you to get better adhesion between the gypsum board and the putty mixture. Do not forget also about the places where the screws were screwed in, and the corners.

And when choosing a paint for finishing a finished structure, it is also best to get a heat-resistant one. As heating season long, the colors may lose their brightness or, even worse, crack.

Old cast-iron batteries can hardly be called a model of aesthetics, so many apartment owners want to hide them, fitting them into the interior as much as possible. good decision a drywall battery box is considered, which you can mount without involving professional builders.

Drywall completely covers the radiators, it is easy to handle and enough cheap material. But working with it requires certain skills. We hope this article will shed light on incomprehensible points and help you successfully solve the problem.

Pros and cons of drywall constructions

Our compatriots have been sheathing batteries with drywall for a long time, so there are many useful developments in this area. Why is this material so popular?

Here are the main advantages of drywall:

Environmental friendliness (no harmful substances are emitted in the premises, and the fire resistance of the box is very high).
Multivariance (a wide range of drywall varieties is presented in hardware stores).
Budget (the material is very cheap).
Ease of installation (any adult male can handle the task).
Space for imagination (you can make designs of any degree of complexity).

Before you start lining the battery with drywall, you should find out the whole truth about the shortcomings of such a solution. You will encounter some things during the installation process, others will appear during the operation of the box.

So the cons:

Brittleness (the material crumbles easily, so you need to work with it carefully).
The need for additional finishing (after installation, arm yourself with a spatula).
Low moisture resistance (drywall warps, swells and deforms from water).
Storage features (by placing the sheet vertically, you will find over time that it began to bend).

Preparatory work and markup

Decided to sew up the heater yourself? Any Finishing work require serious preparation.

Let's start with the selection of tools:

building level;
metal knife;
drill (the presence of a screwdriver nozzle is welcome);
pliers;
perforator;
dowels and screws;
ruler-corner;
pencil;
roulette.

In addition, you will need the drywall sheets themselves, putty and U-shaped metal profiles. Then you need to select a design sketch. You can build a locker heating device(standing option), or make the box hang above the floor. Make sure the battery looks decent. If a old paint peeled off, it needs to be completely torn off and repainted the device.

Marking under the box

After waiting for the paint to dry, proceed to the markup. You will have to take accurate measurements of the battery (errors within a millimeter are allowed).

Use this tool for this:

roulette;
building level;
ruler-gon;
pencil.

The width and depth of the structure depend on the dimensions of the radiator. At the edges, the minimum indent should not exceed 10 centimeters. Narrow window sills need to be dismantled, since the gap between them and the battery must be at least 3 centimeters.

Markup drawing is conditionally divided into three stages:

Drawing horizontal lines. You will draw a line along the hanging level. If you plan to install a "standing" box, draw three lines at once (depth and leading edge).
Drawing vertical markings. Attach a square to the bottom face, draw a perpendicular. To mark the required size, use the level.
Markup connection. The lines should close over the battery. The unifying function is carried by a horizontal segment.

Make sure that you have a square (or rectangle) in front of you, the vertical lines of which correspond to the plumb line. Double check the accuracy of the markup - you will not be able to correct the shortcomings later.

Frame installation

Before closing the battery with drywall, it is necessary to mount a metal frame. You have profiles, dowels and screws that will hold the future structure together. Arm yourself with metal shears, a puncher, a screwdriver and pliers. First you need to cut and fix the supporting elements, they are mounted on the wall as follows:

The U-shaped profile is pressed against the wall with either side.
A small mark is made (use a screwdriver).
Holes are drilled under the fasteners.
The dowels are inserted into the holes.
The profile is pressed to the desired location.
Screws are screwed in.

Holes in the profile are marked in increments of 15-25 centimeters. Make the markup in advance, otherwise you will experience a number of inconveniences during installation. Now fasten all the prepared guides to the wall. Use metal shears at corner joints. The next stage is the formation of the depth of the box.

Procedure:

Cut profile pieces to desired length.
Make 5 cm cuts along the edges of the fold.
Fold the middle down.
Cut off the sides, guided by the channel shelf.
Attach the pieces to the edges of the vertical guides at right angles (make sure the pieces are oriented towards the inside of the room).
Connect fragments with long profiles.

It's time to check the quality of the work. If the structure wobbles, you did something wrong. For example, they “regretted” short elements or made a mistake when installing fasteners. When installing long fasteners, it is better to reinforce the frame in short lengths (4-5 pieces are enough), then you will like the result.

Tighten the screws carefully, otherwise the profile will be damaged. A kind of window is left in the frame for installing a removable screen. So you will ensure a constant flow of heat into the apartment.

Working with drywall

The hard work is left behind. Now we hide our battery under the drywall, and for this we need to cut rectangles of the appropriate size.

Sequencing:

Attach drywall sheet to the profile frame.
Mark the surface of the sheet, mark the cuts.
Take a clerical knife and carefully cut the elements according to the dimensions of the box.
Lean the prepared fragments to "your" parts of the structure.
Secure drywall rectangles with screws.

The drywall that covers the battery is very fragile, so the knife must be sharp. There should be 3-4 self-tapping screws per linear meter of drywall. Hats are recessed by a millimeter - so that they do not tear the cardboard cover.

An important point: the room should receive heat. There are two ways to solve the problem, the easiest of which is to drill ventilation holes in the sheets (their recommended diameter varies within 5 centimeters). A more aesthetic solution seems to be the installation of a removable grille. If you decide to equip the front wall with a plastic screen, be patient and use additional fasteners. Plastic does crack sometimes, so be careful with it.

Final finishing

Now you know how to sew up the battery with drywall. In order for the box to take on a finished look, it must be properly finished.

Action algorithm:

The joints between the sheets of drywall are carefully sealed. You should get a smooth surface ready for further processing. First you need to put a sickle mesh on the joints. After that, the surface is puttied.
The places where fasteners are installed are processed in a similar way.
Do you want to strengthen the corners and make the lines clearer? Place perforated corners on the drywall.
The box is spattered.
After drying, the walls are leveled.
The final stage is grinding (fine-grained sandpaper is used for this).

Having coped with the finishing, you can proceed to the design of your box. The finishing technique will depend on the features of the interior and the overall color scheme.