Do-it-yourself vase made of wooden slats. Wooden vases - how to do it yourself. Bright painting of a bottle decorated as a vase

Vases can be a wonderful interior decoration. Some of them can even be made by hand. Vases can be decorated and transformed very quickly, even with your own hands. This will allow you to create more and more distinctive features in the interior.

1. Original vase filling

A great option is to fill the vase with wine corks, with the help of which the vase is immediately transformed.

2. Lemon vase

Simple yet very bright option decorating a vase with lemon decor, which will be just a godsend.

3. Small bottle vases

A beautiful option to create many mini-vases with your own hands from ordinary bottles.

4. The vase is decorated with beads

It is possible to transform and decorate a vase with the help of beads, which will create a truly beautiful vase in a minimum of time and money.

5. Wooden vase decor

Nice design of the vase with the help of branches, which will give lightness and unobtrusiveness in the interior of any of the rooms.

6. Stylish and simple vases

Beautiful design of small vases that will decorate any home.

7. Vases decorated with cord

With the help of a thread or a cord, it is possible to create unforgettable vases that will become just an excellent solution for decoration.

8. Making a regular bottle

An excellent option to decorate an ordinary bottle in the form of a beautiful vase, which you will definitely like.
9. Bottle makeover

A cute solution to create beautiful vases from ordinary bottles that will be a godsend.

10. Decoration of vases with sparkles

An original solution for decorating vases with gold sequins.

11. Pretty sparkly vase

A great option to create an original and pretty shiny vase that will decorate any interior.

12. Vase decorated as a candlestick

One of the fastest and simple options, so this is the creation of a candlestick from a vase.

13. The perfect combination

If you combine several bottles of the same shape, then it is possible to get such a non-standard vase with cells.

14. Vase of tree branches

Cute and very interesting option create a vase from tree branches that will transform the interior of any room.

15. Bright painting of a bottle decorated as a vase

An excellent and very interesting option for painting a bottle, which became a vase very quickly and simply.

16. Original tied bottles

Decorating bottles is a very interesting and difficult moment that should be taken into account and used to the maximum in practice.

17. Vase decor with pencils

The original option to decorate a vase with ordinary colored pencils, which will be a godsend for any interior.

18. Making bottles with thread

A nice idea to decorate ordinary bottles with a thread, which will be a real discovery and will allow you to create original vases.

19. Decoration of an ordinary transparent vase

Quick and easy decoration of an ordinary vase, which will transform the interior in the shortest possible time.

20. Painting wine bottles

Decorating wine bottles with hand painting, which can be even more attractive than this.

21. Vase decor with wood

The original decoration of the flower vase with the help of wood, which looks charming and delicate.

22. Custom wire vases

A wonderful and perhaps very original option to create a wire vase that looks very interesting.

23. Excellent table decor

One of the best and easiest table decoration options is with a pretty vase that you will love.

24. Cute DIY vases

With your own hands, it is possible to decorate any of the vases in the most diverse way, which will definitely please and inspire.

25. Successful vase decor

A cute solution to ennoble an ordinary transparent vase with burlap and accessories.

26. Christmas vases

An interesting decoration of vases in the New Year's style, which will be just a highlight of any interior.

27. Original vase with transparent bottom

A nice and very interesting example of designing a vase with a transparent bottom, which will become a feature of the interior.

The second important condition for the safe operation of a finely grooved chisel is the requirement to always direct it down the slope, i.e. to a smaller diameter. The sharpening of this tool is usually done at 30°. this operation is very convenient to carry out

using a special device that I made for sharpening deep-grooved chisels, slightly changing its setting. The chamfer is perfectly smooth without edges. This device will be described later in another article, but now it should be clarified that instead of a finely grooved chisel, a deeply grooved one with a less burrowing character can be used to form a vase profile, which I often do.

Photo 6 shows a fine scraping of the turned outer surface of the vase with the wings of a finely grooved chisel, which is led at 45 ° to the surface of the part. The final alignment of the workpiece with a longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers can also be performed using a kosyachkovy chisel, as shown in photo 7. True, it has a very burrowing character and even poses a danger, since when buried it can fly out of hands and injure the turner. At the same time, in the hands of an experienced specialist, such a tool is universal, allowing you to grind almost everything, but only with a fractional arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., with transverse turning, a chisel chisel is absolutely inapplicable. By the way, its blade is sharpened at 25 ° necessarily on the platform of the handpiece of the electric grinder.

Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and leveled its surface, as well as applying small decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel (photo #), I wet polish the product with P220 sandpaper. for which I dip the “skin” into a plate of water, and spray the surface with a sprayer. This polishing is preliminary. and in the future, after drying, the product will require final finishing. Next, I cut off the supporting ledge on the bottom of the vase with a thin cutting chisel (photo 9) and clamp the bottom in the cartridge with the support of the product by the tailstock (photo 10) for a snug fit of the front plane of the sponges to the bottom of the vase. The next step will be drilling a deep hole in the neck of the vase, but since it is long, for reliability, I decided to additionally fix the neck in the lunette (photo 11), the use of which is a common practice when turning vases.

Lunettes for small lathes are not for sale, you have to make them yourself. My three-wheeled steady rest (there are also two- and four-wheeled ones) is made of 40 mm thick plywood. The workpiece hole diameter is 220mm, and the inline skate wheels with precision bearings ensure relatively quiet operation. As soon as I installed the lunette, I had to interrupt the work: I had to take a roll of cling film and wrap a vase with it (photo 12), otherwise the item made of wet apple wood (an extremely “crackling” breed) would certainly crack during my absence. By the way, I also wrap half-finished bowls of weak, heavily rotted wood with this film to prevent them from flying into pieces when boring the inner cavity. The vase I conceived was to become universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and natural flowers. In the latter case, water should be poured into some suitable small vessel, such as a glass test tube 200 mm long and 20 mm in diameter, placed inside the vase (photo 13).

I did not find a suitable long drill (such as a Lewis spiral or a feather drill with grooves for chip removal) to make a hole in the neck of a vase. I had to put a simple flat "perk" 22 mm wide from a Soviet-era production set onto a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drilling chuck with a Morse taper (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow the cartridge to be inserted into the pi-zero of the tailstock, and the thickness of the rod of the device created did not make it possible to fix it in a 10 mm chuck of a conventional drill (9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of a rotating vase, I simply had to hold the cartridge in my hand with great effort, resting the rod on the handpiece. Photos 15 and 16 show the initial and final stages of this process. By the way, for the convenience of further use, the test tube inserted into the neck of the vase should protrude from there by approximately 5 mm.

At the stage of finishing the bottom, i.e. removing dents from the cams of the cartridge and leveling the end, it was necessary to unfold the almost finished vase on the machine. Previously, I carved a support faceplate with a recess for the diameter of the neck (photo 17). I placed it there and backed the bottom with a crowned center, into which I inserted an additional home-made narrow nozzle. When later I turned other vases of approximately the same shape, I simply carefully clamped the neck in the cartridge using small F-type cams, placing a strip of plastic more than 1 mm thick under them. A piece of coaxial (antenna) cable will also work as a softening pad.

Photo 18 shows the search for the center on the bottom, when for some reason it was not marked or disappeared. The beating is marked with a black felt-tip pen, then it is necessary, tapping on the mark with a mallet, to shift the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After that, the bottom is processed using a deep grooved or finely grooved chisel (photo 19)

After turning, the vase must be dried without cracking. Cracking in the air is almost inevitable, which is exacerbated by the large thickness of the vase in the lower part (the thinner the walls of the product, the higher the chance of avoiding cracks, as well as some warping). I dry my raw wood products in one of two ways: either I put them in a kraft paper bag filled with wet shavings from the same wood (photo 20), or I fill the product itself with these shavings, which I then wrap in two layers of newspaper and put on a shelf in shed. The latter method is especially convenient and effective for bowls and plates with walls 4-8 mm thick, which, without cracking or warping, dry out in about two weeks in summer.

Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the lower thick part of the apple tree vase could not be avoided even after two months of drying in a kraft bag, and circumstances did not allow drying longer. The cracks had to be repaired by gluing thin sheets of the same material, sawn on a band saw and then processed with a Proxhop grinder with a carbide disc and a Black & Decker electric file. The stickers were almost invisible, but this extra work forced me to reconsider the technique of turning vases in order to make their lower parts hollow to reduce the likelihood of cracking.

I must say that from the very beginning I had doubts about the legitimacy of a simplified approach, limited to simply drilling a narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to bore the cavities in the bottom of the vases, but there were always various difficulties. True, I rarely made vases. Last summer, I made a series of vases of a similar shape, and the problem had to be solved radically. From the very beginning, at both ends of the cylindrical workpiece, it is machined along the ledge. Having formed the outer profile of the lower part of the vase, you should immediately start boring its cavity using a steady rest, holding the workpiece in the cartridge by the protrusion in place of the neck. Using a deep or finely grooved chisel, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is bored. through which it will then be possible to introduce one of the curved chisels - articulated, with a carbide nozzle or a nozzle cutter (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly controlled by a caliper.

At the end of the boring process, it is necessary to separately turn the plug from the same wood material suitable diameter and paste it into the hole of the protrusion (bottom). Here it is necessary to estimate the depth of protrusion of the plug into the cavity in such a way that the test tube, which will later rest on it, goes out by the above-mentioned 5 mm. If the test tube falls into the neck, there will be an additional hassle with gluing a piece of wood to the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.

That part of the glued plug that protrudes outward, I cut off on a band saw. Next, the bottom will be finally processed in the manner already described above.

If the vase has a different shape with a much wider mouth, then

a tag as a vessel with water will not work here. What to do? The decision came pretty quickly when I took a half-rotten birch suvel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and carved a vase from it with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm. Further, in my stocks, I found a two-meter plastic tube of bright green color with a diameter of 32 mm and cut off a piece about 160 mm long from it on a band saw, deciding to turn it into the required vessel. First, using a gas microtorch, I made sure that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e., it will not be possible to weld the desired container from it. I had to turn to gluing, first sawing off another small piece from the original tube and making an additional fractional cut on it. With the help of an industrial hair dryer, I heated the cut to a soft state. unfolded it flat, put it under a press, and after cooling the leveled piece of plastic with a compass, I applied a contour of a circle on it, which will play the role of a bottom in a vessel from a tube. Further, I quite accurately, albeit by eye, brought him

size according to the internal diameter of the tube (28 mm) using a Black & Decker electric file (photo 22). I drove the circle into the tube to a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and filled the outside with a thick layer of a fairly universal waterproof superglue "Master" based on vinyl acetate copolymers, which I had been keeping for ten years (photo 23). Bright color vessel seemed vulgar to me, and I painted it with brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. Subsequent exposure to water for a month showed the tightness of the made vessel, and the general aesthetic properties of a chiseled vase with a live goldenrod branch can be seen in photo 24.

Finally, I would like to note that the stores sell a wide variety of plastic water pipes, from which you can easily make any vessels for fresh flowers and place inside chiseled wooden vases. Photo 25 shows a number of such products that I created last summer from various types of wood according to the method described above.

DIY wooden vase - photo

Photo 1. Cross-cutting a log on a goat. Photo 2. Sharpening a peeling chisel on an electric grinder. Photo 3. Rough processing of the workpiece with a peeling chisel. Photo 4. Forming a protrusion at the end of the cylinder for the cartridge using a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Forming the outer profile of a vase using a finely grooved chisel. Photo 6. Fine scraping of the surface with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 7. Finishing the surface with a jamb. Photo 8. Application of decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 9. Cutting the support ledge with a thin cutting chisel.

Photo 10 Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in a homemade lunette. Photo 12. Sealing a vase with cling film. Photo 13. Glass tube. Photo 14. Homemade perk
Photo 15. Start drilling a blind hole for a glass test tube.

Photo 16. Cork in the opening of the vase. Photo 17. Turning the support faceplate with a hole for the neck of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and search for the center on the bottom. Photo 19

Wooden vases look very beautiful. Usually made on a lathe. But 90% of the wood turns into shavings.
There is a technology that allows you to make a vase from a flat shield.

Here's what happens:

It took a long time to choose the material for the sample. On the one hand, I want something interesting, on the other hand, so that it would not be a pity to spoil it.
As a result, I settled on walnut, with oak and wenge inserts.

A walnut board 75mm wide and 15mm thick is cut into 3 parts.
Oak 4mm veneer must be cut into 15mm slabs.

How to do this if there is no circular saw, but there is a pair of clamps and a scoring saw?
So - the pist is clamped between the nut dies ...

And drinking.

The result is an even die of the desired thickness:

I glue the walnut into a shield with spacers - two oak dies, between them a thin wenge veneer. (which was sawn using the same technology)
Scratches from the saw are visible. A little sloppiness, plus solid oak that sawn along the grain.
It's not scary, anyway, the shield will have to be sanded to even out the gluing errors.

And again I glue it with spacers, leave it overnight:

I level the shield with a belt grinder, remove the remaining glue. Probably it was worth making the wenge continuous:

The result was a shield with a thickness of 14 mm. On each side it took 0.5 mm.
Based on the shield and the desired dimensions of the vase, the angle and step are selected:

I print the drawing, with the help of an awl I combine the centers of the shield and the drawing, I glue the drawing:

I saw a small rail at an angle of 38 degrees:

I fix the shield with clamps on the jigsaw table and using the rail as a guide, I drill 2mm holes at an angle of 38 degrees with a drill:

I pass a file into the hole:

And let's go!
Cut through the first ring:

And here it is - the bottom!

The wood is very hard, it is sawn slowly, if you squeeze it a little, the file bursts. To replace the file, you need to return the table to a horizontal position, unscrew the fasteners of the file, thread the shield, adjust it again to 38 degrees, adjust the tension ... Moreover, the file almost always breaks when 3 cm remains before the end of the ring.

The second ring, the picture is beginning to emerge.

Bottom view:

And after the fourth ring, the saws ran out. Used half a pack. No more, I'm saving it for tomorrow.

I drove to the store, bought 8 packs of files (to be sure to have enough), sawed:

I'll move the rings:

Sleight of hand and no cheating, the rings stack in a vase:

Can be combined with shift. You can insert between layers. Lots of options.

I start gluing, while without a bottom, so that it would be more convenient to grind the inner surface:

Checking layer alignment:

I leave it overnight under load:

Result. The surface is rough, but the alignment of the lines without serious violations.
Darkening - traces of sawing with an ultra-thin file (41 teeth per inch), which sank in sawdust and the wood burned.

It is necessary to level the inner surface.
Attempt number one - a steel rod with sandpaper glued to double-sided tape.
Not an option, too flexible.

Attempt number two, sanding drum on the same spindle.
It doesn’t fit either, the machine is light (as I intended it to be). It does not hold, plus it is inconvenient to work.

Attempt number three. Grinding drum on a flexible sleeve.

The drum is small, sawdust fly to where it is least needed, but you can work:

For fine grinding, I collect petals of 400 sandpaper:

But it doesn't grind. I continue with my hands.
It takes a lot of time, the surface is far from ideal.
I find an error - the penultimate ring is glued with an offset of 180 degrees.
Well, as a reminder... After all, it could have been a lot worse. Let it give charm - it will be a border. The main thing is that the spacers are normally combined.



Most of all, the sweat flooding the eyes and falling on the vase interferes.

The respirator was once snow white:

I glue the bottom. To speed up the process, I use my weight with dumbbells in my hands as a press ... The vase can withstand more than 100 kg without creaking, despite its lightness and thin walls. Now I think, what would happen if the vase shattered?

The history of wood processing on a lathe has more than 2 millennia. Progress does not stand still, the tools and the machine itself are improved. Instead of 2 people, as at the very beginning of the turning business, it is served by one master, and the rotation of the part is set using electricity. As before, wood is conducive to creative process, which allows craftsmen to create original decor elements for the interior, souvenirs, wooden utensils, carved furniture and much more with their own hands.

For the manufacture of do-it-yourself wooden cans for bulk products, cylindrical jewelry boxes, nesting dolls and other souvenirs, wood with different characteristics of density, fragility and moisture indicators is used. Before turning, it is necessary to calculate the load that the type of wood taken for work can withstand. In many ways, success in production will depend on this, especially if a sharp narrowing of a wooden part is expected, for example, for a carved thin leg. A small miscalculation with the pressure of the cutter on the workpiece, and you can start all over again.

On a lathe desktop machine with a manual type of processing, a lot depends on the skill of the master - the fidelity of his hand and the accuracy of the eye. Turning can be carried out both along and across the wood fibers. In the manufacture of wooden utensils, drawings are not required. The beauty of deep bowls often depends on the choice of wood. Coniferous trees have more even outgrowths of annual rings, which allows, with uniform turning on wood, when the center of the trunk is aligned with the axis of rotation, to create products with a pattern repeating in the period. Hardwoods depend on the dryness or humidity of the year, so annual rings can vary greatly. True, for storing vegetables and fruits fresh, wooden containers made of them are less effective than coniferous ones due to the lower resin content.

In order for the container with the lid to close tightly, do not neglect the drawings. To make a whole set of identical containers with your own hands, the easiest way is to create a stencil based on the drawing and repeated verification of dimensions. You can work with a template only if there is a device for attaching cutters and a copier on the lathe. On such a machine with your own hands, you can not only create single products, but also put on stream the production of sets of wooden household utensils.

Turning such products as balusters for decorating a porch and stairs, building a gazebo, it is better to have a copier on a lathe - this is more reliable than relying on your own eye. No matter how skillful the master was and how well he did not use the cutter, it would not be possible to reproduce the previous product more reliably than using a copier. For craftsmen who are fluent in the cutter, there are no barriers to creating multilayer carvings on a lathe with their own hands, which will become a worthy decoration for furniture - chair backs, headboards.

Turning paintings and faces of saints can be considered a separate type of art - high-class masters who are able to think in volumes and create multi-layered copiers can do this. It is less difficult in terms of transferring the intended pattern to a wooden blank using CNC machines. It will take a lot of time to produce a single product. Turning a carved picture on a CNC machine differs from manual woodcarving in the absence of physical effort on the part of the master. Unlike a person, the “hand” of the machine will not falter - all elements will be produced in accordance with the programmed program.

For playgrounds, even in cities, not metal playgrounds are increasingly being installed, but wooden ones. The tree gives a greater flight of fancy to the masters. When making swings for their children and grandchildren, many will remember horses on bent skids. On a home lathe, you can turn individual elements of such a rocking toy, after which, using carpentry glue, assemble the toy together.

With your own hands, wood can be made on a conventional lathe with an additional mount - a faceplate, a carved box. Having chosen a suitable pattern or ornament, it must be transferred to flat blanks of the lid and walls with a pencil and carbon paper. Ornament cutting is carried out hand tool. Decorative carving on rounded or cylindrical boxes is also done with a hand tool, only the workpiece can be fastened in the spindle without clamping the tailstock, which will interfere with the application of vertical elements of the pattern to a horizontally fixed part on the machine.

The peculiarity of making souvenirs on a lathe is that first all actions are performed to create the outer and inner silhouettes of the product, a decorating carving is applied, only after that the finished item is separated from the total volume of the workpiece.