Stove from a 200 liter barrel. Do-it-yourself barrel stove: instructions and recommendations for making. Initial stage: preparation of the barrel

Like any equipment, the Bubafonya oven has both positive and negative sides. Among the advantages are the following:

long burning period;
uncomplicated operating conditions;
simplicity of design;
low cost of fuel raw materials;
cheap components;
availability self-assembly equipment, subject to the availability of skills in working with a welding machine;
easy transport thanks to small size and weight.

The disadvantages include the following points:

Difficulties in care: it is inconvenient to clean the bottom of the tank, remove combustion products, namely soot, ash.
The appearance of condensate on the walls of the pipes, which leads to a decrease in efficiency.
The classic version of the furnace is characterized by insufficient heat accumulation. To correct this moment, it is necessary to construct an additional water jacket, sheathe the furnace with heat-insulating material or make brickwork.
Heating the bottom of the fuel tank requires laying non-combustible material under it or building a small foundation.
The need for ventilation in the room.

So, we examined the main points of operation and characteristics of the Bubafonya furnace. Now let's talk about how to make such a model with your own hands.

materials

To work, you will need the following items:

an iron barrel of 200 liters with a sealed bottom for storing fuels and lubricants (fuel and lubricants);
a metal circle (pancake) with a diameter slightly smaller than the corresponding barrel size;
a metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 5 cm more than the height of the container;
four channels or corners 5-6 cm high, less than the radius of the pancake;
metal pipe for the chimney with a diameter of 150 mm and a length of 5 m.

A cylindrical container can be bought, accepted as a gift, or found in a landfill.

We make a stove from a barrel with our own hands

We will break the whole work into successive steps.

First we make the body:

1. At the top of the receptacle, remove the weld, align the sharp edges. So, we got a cylinder and a cover for it.

2. Using a hammer, we bend the edges of the structure inward, and the upper element outward.

3. Turn the cover over and put it on the cylinder.

4. Using a chisel in the middle of the cover, we cut an opening into which we insert the blower pipe. The hole diameter is 102 mm. This is quite enough for the free passage of a rolled metal product.

If the barrel had a cork, the hole needs to be welded. However, some prefer to leave it, creating the possibility of controlling the combustion process: unscrew the plug and look inside.

5. In the upper part of the barrel, we cut out an opening where we weld a piece of a chimney 25 cm long. An overflow damper must be installed inside the product.

For better rigidity, the edges of the pancake must be bent. So it will not deform under the influence of high temperatures.

In the middle of the circle, it is required to cut a hole into which the blower pipe is welded.

The channels are attached to the underside of the pancake.

The air supply device is ready. Now we place it inside the cylinder.

Construction assembly

In the upper part of the blowing pipe, an adjusting damper is installed, the diameter of which coincides with the size of the rolled metal product. The threaded stud is welded into the pipe. It needs to be placed vertically. On the side of the damper, it is required to cut a hole in such a way that the valve, falling on the pin, tightly closes the pipe.

After the damper is installed, it is required to tighten it with a wing nut. By loosening this element, it can be moved. Loosening and tightening the fastener allows you to adjust the flow of air masses into the furnace.

The last step is to install the cover. Now the furnace structure is ready for operation.

Chimney installation

At the final stage, a channel with a diameter of 150 mm is installed. It is necessary to adhere to this value, otherwise there is a possibility of incomplete removal of combustion products.

A pipe with a length of more than 5 m provides good traction. It should be installed directly next to the oven. It is desirable that she stand on her feet. The lower part of the pipe is welded.

To provide for the drainage of condensate formed in the pipe, a ball valve must be welded under the knee. It is worth noting that the presence of this element is a prerequisite. If the condensate freezes, the weld seam may break. In addition, there is a possibility of liquid entering the combustion device.

How to drown

When the Bubafonya stove is assembled from the barrel, you can start heating the room. How to do it right? It is required to remove the cover, take out the device that supplies air, and put firewood, but not above the lower edge of the chimney elbow. If the logs are placed in a vertical position, they will fit more, and even large firewood will burn to the end.

We lay a layer of chips on top, on them - a rag or paper, which needs to be lightly poured with kerosene.

After the fuel is laid, it is necessary to put a pancake on the air supply device, and then the stove cover. Next, we open the blower damper, throw inside the pipe supplying air, a set fire to a rag or paper. It will not be possible to ignite with matches because of the strong traction that extinguishes them.

When the firewood flares up well, it will begin to crackle. Then it is required to completely close the blower damper, which will provide the unit with a long burning.

Download device project

You can in PDF format. The document contains detailed description how to build a do-it-yourself unit, as well as a few answers to frequently asked questions.

Conclusion

As you can see, the manufacture of the Bubafonya oven is a simple process that everyone can do.

As for the container for the base, the craftsmen use both an old gas cylinder and a large fire extinguisher. It is important that the walls of the device are strong and steel.

A potbelly stove from a 200 liter barrel can be installed in different rooms: in a garage, in a country house, a warehouse, etc. Its main advantage is a high heating rate. It quickly heats the air in the room and cools down just as quickly due to the properties of the metal case.

Collapse

The most popular home-made model is considered to be a potbelly stove from a barrel. For its manufacture and installation does not require expensive materials and special skills. It is arranged so simply that it can be easily assembled by hand.

About design

A home-made potbelly stove from a barrel has a height of 89 cm, a diameter of 60 cm and a weight of 21 - 25 kg, has a blind hearth and a fairly high chimney. Used as fuel sawdust, shavings, dry firewood and fuel briquettes. Due to the rather thin metal walls and the height of the body, the efficiency of such a furnace does not exceed 15 - 20%.

The principle of its operation is quite simple: the wood is laid in the firebox and ignited. When burned, wood emits a large number of thermal energy, which is transferred to the stove body of the potbelly stove. The heated metal gives off heat to the surrounding atmosphere and heats the room. The amount of heat is increased by a long chimney, through which hot smoke moves to the street.

Expert opinion

Nikolai Davydov

Baker with 15 years of experience

For the correct flow of gas-dynamic processes in a potbelly stove from a 200 l barrel, the blower should be located as low as possible. Otherwise, the lower part will take a significant part of the thermal energy and redirect it to the ground. If the blower needs to be placed higher, then you can wall up the lower part of the tank with a brick.

Choosing a quality barrel

For the manufacture of a stove stove, you can use any steel barrel used in the petrochemical, paint and varnish, chemical, metallurgical industries for storing and transporting technical products:

bulk - oils, solvents, paints, diesel fuel, sodium liquid glass;

pasty - thick lubricants, bitumen;

loose - caustic soda, various plasticizers.

They are produced in two types - with open and closed tops, they also differ in the thickness of the bottom, lid and shell.

Any of these containers can be adapted for a potbelly stove, if you first clean and rinse its inner surface well. However, the thinner the walls of the container, the faster they will burn out, and the stove will fail. Therefore, you need to choose a product with a metal thickness of more than 2 mm for a potbelly stove.

Expert opinion

Nikolai Davydov

Baker with 15 years of experience

Well, the best option is a stainless steel barrel. High-alloy stainless steel is the most resistant to high temperatures in the fuel combustion zone, which means that the furnace made from it will last longer.

Additional materials

For the construction of a heater, in addition to the 200-liter metal barrel itself, the following additional building materials and furnace fittings will be required:

small steel sheet

fireclay brick for a vertical model or a reflector for a horizontal one;

a small section of the channel;

steel pipes for the chimney;

fittings for the grate;

sand, clay for making mortar;

asbestos cord;

furnace door;

blower door;

basalt wool for chimney insulation.

Required Tools

In order to qualitatively build a potbelly stove from a 200 liter barrel with your own hands, you need to prepare a minimum set of tools, consisting of:

welding machine;

grinders or hacksaws for metal;

standard hammer, pliers and chisel;

steel brush;

drills with a set of drills;

measuring instruments: tape measure, level and plumb.

We also need personal protective equipment for welding: a protective mask, dielectric gloves, overalls made of dense fabric and closed shoes.

Crafting Instructions

During the operation of the stove, its body is strongly heated, so such a heating device must be placed on a monolithic fire-resistant surface. It can be a layer of concrete, asphalt concrete, a metal sheet, or just earth. The stove must have its own chimney; connecting the appliance to the chimney of other heating devices is prohibited.

There are two options for assembling such a furnace: with a horizontal and vertical arrangement of the barrel.

Vertical model

Vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

Scheme of a vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

The manufacturing process of a vertical furnace model looks like this:

Prepare an opening on the side surface of the barrel to enable loading firewood;

The door can be bought in advance or the cut-out part of the wall can be adapted: hinges and a handle can be welded to it, which provides convenience when closing and opening the combustion chamber;

A little lower than the furnace door, cut another hole for mounting the blower door. For the manufacture of the blower itself, a thick-walled pipe is used, cut along. It should be able to move along the metal rails, but not be removed completely;

At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the tank, install grates - a metal plate with holes or a welded cellular reinforcement structure. For their fixation, an ordinary steel corner is used.
Option 1 - mesh grid

Option 2 - fittings

From the bottom of the barrel, you need to weld metal legs or simply install the structure on bricks;

Role hob will perform steel wire, which can be welded to the top cover of the furnace;

Brick lining (optional)

To protect the walls of the container from burning through, the inner surface of the furnace can be additionally lined with refractory bricks, giving it a semicircular shape with the help of a grinder. Masonry should be carried out on a furnace solution, which includes 1 part of oily clay and 2 parts of sand. The mixture is made with a minimum amount of water and should have a thick consistency;

Next, we make a chimney (more details below).

Hole under chimney with a diameter of at least 15 cm is cut out from the side of the container in its upper part (or from the side). The height of the pipe must be at least 4 m. When installing it, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

it is advisable not to install the pipe strictly vertically, the presence of horizontal and inclined sections increases the amount of heat received, however, the number of turns should not exceed 3 times;

the bending angle should be 30 degrees, and only in exceptional cases reach 45 degrees;

horizontally located chimney elements cannot be longer than 1 m;

to prevent the appearance of condensate, the part of the chimney facing the street should be insulated with basalt wool;

to reduce the load from the appliance body, the chimney must be attached to the wall.

On the chimney of the potbelly stove, you can install a rotary valve or a valve moving along the guides. With the help of this element, it is possible to adjust the intensity of the removal of heated smoke and completely block the chimney during the period when the stove is not heated.

Horizontal model

The efficiency of a potbelly stove stove from a 200-liter barrel will be higher if it is made and placed horizontally.

Potbelly stove from a barrel - horizontal version

Scheme of a horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

Algorithm of actions for horizontal placement capacity will be as follows:

Nikolai Davydov

Baker with 15 years of experience

Flammable things should not be placed near the stove, and when moving, beware of accidental contact of exposed skin with its body in order to avoid burns. The room where the potbelly stove is installed should be well ventilated, at least naturally.

Operation features

During the operation of the furnace, it is necessary to alternate the cycles of its kindling, including:

bookmark fuel;

ignition of the furnace;

directly furnace process with space heating;

cleaning of ash products from the furnace and blower section.

The most responsible stage can be attributed to the stage of laying fuel, which must be laid in a certain order to facilitate the ignition process. First you need to put paper and thin dry firewood on the grate, light a fire and close the door.

After the kindling material has ignited, larger logs can be added. The wood must be loaded carefully to prevent the fire from dying out. At the end of the full laying of firewood, you need to tightly close the furnace door.

The draft in the potbelly stove can be adjusted with a valve on the chimney or by slightly opening the blower door.

In the process of burning the furnace, do not touch its body, so as not to burn yourself.

To restore draft after a long period of burning, it is necessary to periodically disassemble the chimney and clean its elements from accumulated soot.

Output

Potbelly stove - quite simple heater, and it is for this quality that it is considered a brilliant invention. How to make a potbelly stove from a barrel can be understood from the instructions and build it yourself. The potbelly stove will bring considerable benefits: it will solve the problems of heating outbuildings and country houses remote from the central gas supply lines. In addition, it is easy to transport and install, if necessary, it can move to another room.

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"Today we will look at detailed instructions to create a simple oven from a 200 liter barrel with your own hands to heat a garage, a production facility, country house or warming up the water in the pool. This stove was made directly for heating the garage, as well as heating the water in the pool due to the pipe system and the coil, the stove is portable, that is, it can be operated both indoors and outdoors.

It is not so difficult to make a stove from a barrel, especially today you can buy a kit for a potbelly stove, it includes a door, legs, a chimney base with an adjustable damper. Or do everything yourself, which will be much more budgetary and economical.

You will need an empty 200 l barrel, a technological hole is made in the front end part for installing the firebox, in the upper part we make a hole for the base of the chimney with a damper. Inside it is necessary to place a grate, also for a longer service life of the metal, you can lay out the lower part with refractory bricks, or with ordinary red ceramic (for lack of the first one). The legs can be made stationary, removable, or you can come up with a separate frame.

materials

200 liter barrel
kit: door, chimney base with damper, legs
refractory brick
grate
pipe

Instruments

angle grinder (Bulgarian)
drill
screwdriver
hammer
ruler and marker

Step-by-step instructions for creating a stove from a 200 liter barrel.

You can use a ready-made and commercially available kit for ovens from barrels, or do it yourself.
To date, a 200 liter barrel can be purchased for little money, or you can get it somewhere through an acquaintance.
An angle grinder (grinder) cuts a hole in the end part for installing the firebox door.
In the upper part of the barrel, a chimney base with an adjustable damper is installed.
The intensity of combustion is regulated by such a damper.
It is desirable to paint the furnace with heat-resistant paint for furnaces or automotive paint for collectors. The main thing is to withstand high temperatures. Also, the painted stove looks aesthetically pleasing and does not rust.
Inside the furnace, a grate should be made of fittings or pipes, steel mesh.
And it is best to lay out the bottom of the furnace with refractory bricks, so the metal will last much longer and will not burn out.
A neatly painted stove looks quite solid, you can make a stand or bed under it, so the room will warm up much faster.
Also, a stove from a 200 liter barrel can be used to heat the water in the pool, for which you need to make several turns metal pipe around the body of the barrel and loop with the pool. Water will circulate naturally through the pipe and warm up. In such a simple way, you can make a simple oven from a 200 liter barrel with your own hands. We hope the presented material was useful to you. Thanks for attention!

An old metal barrel of 200 liters is an excellent material for making a simple potbelly stove. The resulting stove is suitable for heating any non-residential premises, from garages to outbuildings. The stove from a barrel of 200 liters has the simplest design and does not cause difficulties even for beginners. Let's understand the features of this simple heater and discuss the assembly instructions.

Benefits of a barrel stove

Assembling homemade stoves, artisanal craftsmen often use old gas cylinders or sheet metal. It is problematic to get both, and even almost for free. To the greatest extent, this applies to sheet iron, which is most often simply bought. Barrels of 200 liters are more affordable raw materials for the construction of heating equipment.

200 liters is quite a decent volume. A firebox organized in a barrel will fit a large amount of firewood, which is necessary for the implementation long burning. There will also be room for a large ash pan. In other words, an old metal barrel will still serve for the benefit of a person, providing him with warmth and comfort.

A barrel stove is an excellent solution for heating non-residential premises of any type. It will fit in the garage, give warmth to a small workshop, and allow you to heat the basement. Its assembly does not take much time, but you need to pay attention to the choice of source material. The selected barrel should not be rusted through - the thicker the metal, the longer the stove itself will last. Therefore, there is no need to save on assembly materials.

Other advantages of a barrel stove:

A volume of 200 liters is enough for the normal burning of the flame in the furnace.
The ability to organize a capacious and easy-to-clean ash pan.
Unpretentiousness to fuel - the furnace will be able to work on everything that burns.
Easy to operate.

A potbelly stove from a 200-liter barrel is in some demand among those who need an inexpensive and easy to use self assembly heating equipment.

There are also disadvantages:

High case temperature.
Low efficiency - part of the heat simply flies into the chimney.
Thin walls - durable furnaces require metal 3-4 mm thick.

You should not try to heat the stove from the barrel with coal - it has a high combustion temperature and can thin the metal.

Assembly sequence

A barrel stove is easy to assemble and requires an equally complex tool. We will need:

angle grinder (grinder);
welding machine;
a hacksaw for working with small parts (it’s more convenient);
grinder machine.

Supporting materials will also be required:

pieces of sheet metal - for scalding doors;
door hinges;
metal for the chimney;
metal for legs;
brick and cement for organizing the base for the stove;
fittings for creating a grate.

Prepare cutting wheels for the grinder and electrodes for the welding machine (if electric welding is used).

Making a potbelly stove from a barrel is not the most difficult task, the main thing is to follow our instructions exactly and observe safety precautions.

Initial barrel preparation

Making a stove from a barrel with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. The first step is to prepare our "source". A barrel of 200 liters must be cleaned of paint (if it has been painted). Those who neglect this step will have to inhale the aromas of burning paint. Our task is to make the barrel shiny, and at the same time get rid of rusty spots. Use a grinder to grind metal.

In the next step, arm yourself with a grinder and carefully cut out two rectangular windows in the barrel. Work with the tool carefully, as the cut out rectangles will be useful to us as doors. We process the edges with the same grinder or file so that they are not so sharp. The door for the firebox should be larger than the door for the ash pan. In addition, the ash pan door will serve as a blower.

Cut off the top of the barrel completely. We will need to assemble and place a grate inside the 200 liter barrel. Therefore, the absence of a top cover will ensure the convenience of its installation.

Assembling the grate

For the manufacture of a grate, use fittings. The diameter of a standard barrel of 200 liters is 571.5 mm. Therefore, the lattice must be smaller in diameter in order to pass through the internal volume. At the level between the firebox door and the ash pan door, we make arbitrary protrusions - the grate itself will rest on them. For example, you can make them from sheet metal and weld them to the inner walls.

The potbelly stove from the barrel will generate quite a lot of ash falling into the ash pan. Therefore, it must be large - the recommended height is 100-130 mm. Do not make the door too narrow, otherwise there will be problems with ease of cleaning.

We prepare the doors

The doors of our stove will be clearly smaller than the boot and ash windows. Therefore, they must be scalded around the perimeter with pieces of sheet iron about 20 mm wide. We also saw out handles from sheet iron, rivet or fasten them to the doors. At the next stage, we carefully weld the hinges, after which we weld the doors to the stove itself - now our 200-liter barrel is almost ready to serve a second life.

Making the foundation

For our 200 liter barrel, it is desirable to make legs. Adapt pieces of thick reinforcement for this or make them from metal corners 2-3 mm thick. The optimal distance from the bottom of the barrel to the base is 100 mm.

Intending to make a potbelly stove from a barrel, think about the place of its installation. You will need a reliable non-combustible base. It is best to make it out of brick or pour a concrete screed. The space in front of the stove is made of non-combustible material - for example, from sheet iron laid here. If the floor in the heated room is concrete, just lay a sheet of iron on it and place a barrel on it.

We prepare the chimney

The design of the stove from a barrel of 200 liters implies the obligatory presence of a chimney. It would be nice if it was removable - a pipe-in-pipe system is suitable for this. That is, we weld a pipe of a smaller diameter with a height of 100-150 mm to the stove, and already we put on it the main chimney pipe of a larger diameter. You can also use ready-made factory collapsible chimneys. The bottom line is that the stove can be quickly cleaned by removing it from the base - a volume of 200 liters does not mean at all that it will never become clogged with soot and soot.

Final assembly of the furnace

We take our 200-liter barrel with legs welded to it, install it on a pre-prepared base. Inside we lower the grate. At the next stage, we weld the top cover with a short chimney. Next, we put the main chimney on it and go for firewood.

Put some paper and small wood chips on the grate, kindle a fire, achieve a steady flame. Now start laying the main firewood - it is best if they are dry. Wet logs burn worse, and even smoke, clogging the chimney. Close the firebox door and adjust the intensity of combustion with the blower. Do not forget to periodically add more and more portions of fuel until the set temperature is reached.

Structural modernization

A barrel with an internal volume of 200 liters can produce a decent amount of heat. But the heat transfer efficiency will be small. Part of the thermal energy will completely fly away into the pipe. Therefore, the stove needs to be slightly retrofitted. This is done in the following ways:

These steps will help you make your barrel stove more efficient. If you don’t find a sample for 200 liters, you can take 150 liters - there will be a little less space in it, so you will have to throw firewood more often.

Brick walls are being built to the right, left and behind the barrel - they will work as a kind of heat accumulator.
The stove is scalded round pipes small diameter (for example, ¾ inch) - a convector is formed, which will cause air circulation in the room and effectively remove heat from the stove.
By extending the horizontal part of the chimney - run it through the entire room in order to take away the maximum thermal energy from the combustion products.

We will offer you some more ideas for upgrading the stove from a 200 liter barrel. For example, you can line its inside with refractory bricks. For organization hob use the cast iron insert in the top cover. Try to make a stove with increased heat dissipation - weld two barrels together in height. There are also modifications with a horizontal arrangement of barrels.

Interesting potbelly stove with stone masonry

A barrel of 200 liters can serve as the basis for another interesting stove - with masonry inside. To assemble it you will need:

the barrel itself;
thick metal wire or fittings;
large rounded river stones;
chimney pipes.

There is no ash pan in such a stove, so there will be some difficulties with cleaning. We immediately recommend that you make the firebox door at a level with the bottom of the barrel - it is more convenient to rake out the ashes. We make a kind of grate from reinforcement or thick metal wire. Only here it will fulfill a different role - it will support the masonry.

To assemble the stove, it is necessary to cut off the top cover from a 200-liter barrel and equip it with a pipe for connecting the chimney. In the lower part we cut out a door for laying firewood with a height of 150-200 mm. We fix a grate at a height of 250 mm, on which we pile stones to the top. Please note that it is precisely large stones that are needed so that combustion products pass quietly in the space between them.

Recently on the Internet I saw a message about a stove for heating greenhouses and garages. This stove attracted me with its ease of manufacture and a very long burning time - up to three days. Having carefully studied all the nuances of manufacturing, I decided to make the same oven and test it in operation. Even if you order it on the side, it will come out very cheap.

This simple stove has been standing and heating at the moment for 58 hours on one firewood tab.

I took a two-hundred-liter metal barrel, two pipe sections of 110 and 90 mm, two pipes with a diameter of 150 mm (for the chimney), a piece of iron the diameter of the barrel. And then - a cutting machine and a welding machine. The whole process took half a day of work. We heated the stove once, twice, figured out how everything works and loaded it with all sorts of waste from woodworking (for me it was cutting boards 5-10 cm long, plus a few buckets of sawdust).

Launched it the day before on the street. After working for more than a day and a half, she burned only half of her load. The stove is working fine, the snow around it has melted by 50 cm. So for the greenhouse it will be just right: the burning time is more than two days, and, most likely, more. There are no drawings of the barrel-stove as such, everything is done based on the size of the barrel. The author of this invention told and provided photographs of its manufacture. The stove is called "Bubafonya". Here is his story:

- Friends, comrades, I decided to put on public display the design of the stove, the use of which can be found everywhere. The version that I made is still raw. Together we will refine and improve it. I must say right away that the principle of combustion was borrowed from Lithuanian boiler builders, who produce Stropuva boilers. I will also add that I am not an expert in exact calculations, so please do not judge strictly. We made it from improvised materials. It's available to anyone. This is a big plus. Another big plus is the very long operation of this stove on a single load of firewood. Saves a lot of time and wood.

1. First, I installed a pipe seven meters high from the horizontal part of the chimney of the furnace. Then I found the usual large barrel of 250-300 liters from Soviet times. A very strong quality barrel, albeit an old one (photo 1).

2. Completely carved with an ax upper part barrels and leveled sharp edges (photo 2).

3. Cut off a piece of pipe at 150 to exit the smoke from the furnace.

4. I adjusted it in place and welded it (photo 3).

5. I cut off the bottom cover from a two-hundred-liter barrel and cut a hole for a 100 mm pipe in it

6. Prepared a pipe 100 mm long a little more than the height of the barrel. Prepared a U-shaped iron channel.

7. I cut out four parts from the channel and tried on the lid of a 200-liter barrel in this way (photo 4).

8. Welded them to the bottom cover. Channels with ends of different heights. I do not know if they play any role in the combustion process, but there is an opinion that they distribute air more evenly. And they support the lid over the firewood.

9. On the reverse side, right up to the prepared hole in the center of the cover, I welded a pipe (photo 5).

10. For the top cover, I prepared a sheet of metal and cut a hole for the pipe with a chisel.

11. The stove is basically ready. I connected it to the chimney pipe with a clamp, winding fiberglass under the clamp. Immediately decided to test it a bit. I threw a little firewood inside the barrel - a third of the volume. From above, right on the firewood, I hoisted the air supply pipe. I first leveled the edges of the “pancake” of the air supply so that when moving down it would not cling to the walls of the furnace (photo 6).

12. Top closed with a lid (photo 7).

13. He splashed a little kerosene directly into the blower pipe and threw a lit match there.

The stove immediately flared up with an open blower. The barrel got very hot, it became very hot. There is no smell - everything is drawn out by traction. The noise from the thrust is decent (photo 8).

For some time the stove worked with an open blower pipe, which made it unbearably hot. I found a metal circle and half covered the pipe. And the heat is still going on, I had to cover it up more (photo 9).