How to make a lawn in the country with their own hands. How to make a lawn in the country with your own hands - a detailed step-by-step instruction for arranging a lawn (145 photo ideas). How to care for lawn grass

Hello, dear readers of our blog, who want to give their site an impeccable look!

Growing the perfect green cover yourself is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. This article is for those who are not afraid of difficulties and are ready to sacrifice a fair amount of their time for the sake of a beautiful front lawn.

Soil landscaping should be started on final stage arrangement of the territory - at the end of all construction works, wiring communications, and installation of the main elements of decor.

Think over the site plan in advance and determine the places where the emerald carpet will be located. by the most suitable options lawns for a private house are meadow or park. They are resistant to trampling and other mechanical influences, have a decent appearance and do not require painstaking care.

In such clearings, you can break flowerbeds, put sun loungers, and it’s not even scary to play ball or badminton. To create them, perennial cereal plants are usually used:

meadow bluegrass,
ryegrass,
bent,
fescue,
comb.

It is easier to achieve a uniform cover if you use one variety of seeds, rather than a grass mixture. In this case, the probability of avoiding fragments is higher. different shade and textures.

In the case of a meadow lawn, one type of grass is taken as the basis, which should make up at least 80% of the seed, and then the rest are added to it in small quantities.

If you want the turf to be hardy, durable and endure various natural phenomena, the onslaught of weeds, pest attacks and diseases, in this case you need to combine several types of herbs.

When choosing seeds, pay attention to the following aspects:

Climate . Consider the ability of plants to tolerate certain weather conditions that are characteristic of your region. For example, harsh winters are not afraid of meadow bluegrass, various types fescue, bent grass. What can not be said about ryegrass, which, in addition, does not tolerate drought.
The degree of shading of the site . For sunny areas, meadow bluegrass, thin bent grass, clover and perennial ryegrass are suitable. In dimly lit places, it is better to plant fescue.
Soil moisture level . Bluegrass, clover, red fescue and thin bent grass are unpretentious in this regard. Moisture-loving plants include sheep fescue and shoot bent grass. While perennial ryegrass does not take root on damp soils.
Manufacturer. Give preference only to proven, well-established firms. These include Danish and Dutch brands, but domestic brands, unfortunately, rarely please with their quality.
Price. A good product, respectively, and is not cheap. Therefore, trying to save money on grass seeds can lead to even more significant expenses later.
Best before date. Often they simply forget about this nuance, and if the material turns out to be overdue, all further actions to create a lawn will be meaningless.

Preferably in specialized stores with a good reputation and a high rating.

Preliminary work before laying the lawn

This is the most responsible and troublesome stage in the formation of the lawn. After all, the more thoroughly you prepare the ground, the better your future lawn will be.

It is better to start activities in the spring, so that in the summer the herbage is properly rooted and strengthened:

In an overgrown area, you will need to remove all foreign objects(garbage, stones, branches, etc.), uproot roots and stumps.
After that, completely remove the weeds. For a more effective result, it is better to use continuous herbicides containing glyphosate (Hurricane, Roundup, Argument, Napalm), since it is impossible to select all the roots mechanically, and even small particles cannot be left - they will definitely germinate again.

till the soil chemicals should be at temperatures above 25 ºC in dry weather without wind and only growing plants.

Then it is necessary to pour a generous layer of fertile soil and plow with it or properly dig the earth to a depth of at least 30 cm, breaking up large clods.
With excessive moisture at the lowest level, make drainage from crushed stone or gravel. Dilute clay soil with sand, and sandy soil with compost. It is also important that the acidity is within the normal range: for lawn grass 5-6 pH. At increased rate you can correct it by adding acidic peat, and if it is low, you can add limestone, dolomite or calcite.

Then, with the help of a cultivator and a rake, proceed to loosening and leveling the site. You should end up with a completely smooth surface. You can use a wide board, dragging it with an edge along the surface, or a special roller. This will fill in all the depressions and smooth out the bumps.

Moisten the soil well a few days before planting. If puddles have appeared in some places, add earth there, otherwise later bald spots will form in these areas or moss will grow.
Now deposit mineral fertilizers to strengthen the root system and stimulate growth, it is best to use a nitrogen mixture (nitroammophoska) or a starter complex, which, in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, includes iron, zinc and other trace elements.
Immediately before sowing the seeds, the earth must be tamped to prevent subsidence (for this it must be completely dry), and then lightly walk on it with a rake.

How to sow seeds of lawn plants?

There are several ways to landscaping the soil:

regular planting,
turf laying,
hydroseeding.

For the lazy, the third option, the so-called liquid lawn, is more suitable. He does not need such a thorough preparation of the site. Yes, and spraying seeds with a special solution containing everything necessary for maximum germination, mulch, fertilizers, herbicides, requires less effort.

You can get a green carpet quickly with the help of ready-made rolls. True, in order to properly lay them, you need to know the technology.

These methods have their own advantages and disadvantages. We will consider in detail the first traditional method, especially popular among gardeners. He impresses me more than others.

Most importantly, ensure an even distribution of seeds over the surface of the site. If you do choose a mixture of herbs, then first mix it well with your hands. Don't skimp on material. Focus on the upper consumption rate indicated on the package. This way you will more likely achieve a thicker cover.

You can sow lawn grass only in dry, calm weather. For planting, it is better to use a mechanical seeder, but in the absence of one, you can also handle it manually.

It is best to use the technique of cross-seeding, i.e. first spread the seeds along the site, and then across, to a depth of no more than 1.5 cm.

After planting, rake over the surface again, roll it again with a roller and pour abundantly over the area through a fine sprinkler. Irrigate the lawn in this way for the first few weeks, until the bulk of the sprouts appear. Lay out mulch to protect seedlings from wind, washout, and protection from birds.

When the herbage reaches a level of 8 - 10 centimeters, mowing can begin. First, they make a light haircut, removing only the very top, and after the sod is finally rooted, you can proceed to a more thorough mowing.

We offer you help detailed video about how to properly sow lawn grass on the site. Perhaps, looking at the whole process from the outside, you will come to the conclusion that doing it yourself is not so difficult.

How much does it cost to make a lawn?

The price mainly depends on the desired quality, as materials are selected and carried out on the basis of this. preparatory work. Not the last role in the formation of the cost is played by the specifics of the relief and the properties of the soil.

A conventional sowing lawn is the most economical, especially if you do it yourself. In this case, you will only have to spend money on plant seeds, fertilizers and herbicides.

On average, one hundred acres of grass cover will cost 20,000 rubles. For comparison, a hydroseeding lawn will be about 1.5 times more expensive, and a rolled lawn will be 2 times more expensive.

It is worth noting that with any option you can get an excellent result. A reasonable question arises: why pay more?

Typical mistakes when landscaping a site

Why is it that not everyone succeeds in growing a beautiful lawn? Let's look at the main reasons:

Wrong selection of seeds. Often the significance of this issue is neglected and they buy lawn grass, like from a neighbor or from an advertisement, without going into the features of the relief, soil, location of the lawn, climatic conditions. The grass mixture may have excellent performance, but simply not suitable for your area.
Haste in preparing the site, especially when leveling it. It is important to perform all actions in the correct sequence. After leveling the lawn area for the first time, be sure to let the soil stand, and then repeat the procedure to identify and eliminate possible irregularities after the soil has settled.
Lack of drainage system. Excess moisture is just as damaging to the lawn as its lack. Therefore it should Special attention pay attention to the composition of the soil. In the case of the predominance of clay or black soil in it, it is necessary to ensure an unhindered outflow of water. Otherwise, you will have to constantly fight mold, moss and bald spots.
Heterogeneous sowing of grass. At this stage, too, you can not rush. It is better to spend a few extra hours landing than to fill empty places all summer long here and there.

Conclusion

By following our advice, you can avoid such mistakes and achieve the best result.

Now you know all the stages of creating the treasured green lawn in the yard of your house. But in order to preserve its beauty for a long time, you need to know how to properly care for the lawn. On our blog you will find comprehensive information on this subject.

Stay with us and improve your gardening skills. Write in the comments what difficulties you encountered when laying the lawn and how you overcame them. And we wish you an easy landing and soft juicy grass!

Well-groomed grass in a summer cottage looks no less aesthetically pleasing than flower beds. In addition, if you do all the work on planting the lawn correctly, then in the future lawn care will be very simple. A beautiful lawn will become not only a part of decorative design site, but will bring a lot of benefits. For a year, half a hectare of planted grass absorbs about 40 tons of dust, which means that you will breathe healthy air. The second plus is that the humidity will increase, which in the summer will help the owners to endure the heat more easily. Every summer resident can make a lawn with his own hands, because this does not require special equipment and in-depth knowledge of an agronomist. The main rule here is to do everything slowly and efficiently.

Prior to the start of earthworks, they are determined with the type of lawn. It is selected taking into account the further use of the grass area, because the arrangement of the lawn for outdoor games and for the patio area can radically differ in the quality and variety of cereals that make up the grass mixtures. There is, so before going to the store, clearly define what you need.

When buying a lawn mixture, read the instructions on the package, which indicates for what purposes such a lawn can be used.

It is sown in places where a playground, a children's area or a pet walking area is planned (for example, if someone breeds dogs). Sports mixtures include herbs that are not afraid of trampling, so over time your lawn will not appear "bald" spots. Such lawns are dense, hard and unpretentious. True, a stronger substrate is being built under them to avoid grass breaks.

English (parterre) lawn

This lawn is the exact opposite of a sports lawn. It is designed not for movement, but for contemplation. Mixtures are made up of expensive tender herbs that require good soil, constant care and shearing, are afraid of shady places and trampling. In the landscape, the English lawn looks very luxurious and expensive, but it is clean. decorative corner, in which picnics and tea parties are excluded.

Along with beautiful aesthetic parameters, the English lawn is very delicate, demanding to care for and does not tolerate movement on it.

Garden lawn

Do-it-yourself gardening lawn in the country is the easiest to do. The cereals that make up its composition are unpretentious, tolerate both shade and scorching sunlight well, grow on poor soils. Therefore, for recreation areas, patios, areas near pools, this option is most often chosen.

Meadow (Moorish) lawn

If you like field forbs and meadows dotted with flowers, then choose this type of lawn. It will be a lawn blooming all summer with a bright palette of colors. You can create a mixture for a meadow lawn yourself by choosing plants so that they bloom alternately throughout the summer season.

An easier option is to buy ready-made, where herbs have already been selected that get along well together, do not drown out each other and are different bright colors. Naturally, such lawns are rarely mowed (only to remove faded plants and allow the next generation to germinate). But walking on them is not recommended, because high, about 10 cm grasses will be crushed underfoot and are unlikely to restore their former appearance.

Meadow lawns, especially Moorish lawns, are great for rustic landscaping styles and look naturalistic.

Universal lawns are created very quickly, because they use ready-made rolled grass strips. They are sold with turf and quickly take root in a new place. Via roll materials equip any areas on the site in which movement is planned. As a decorative parterre lawn, this option is not suitable, because unpretentious hard grasses that do not have high aesthetic qualities are used for its cultivation. It should be borne in mind that such a lawn will cost you much more than sowing grass for a lawn, because rolled strips require special soil preparation and the ability to properly line them.

Rolled lawns are a universal type of lawns (albeit expensive!), on which you can create recreation areas, playgrounds

Rules for choosing a landing site

When dividing the landscape of the site into certain zones, keep in mind that not all lawn mixtures will grow equally well where you have allocated a place for them.

So, the English lawn needs complete openness, the absence of shade and winds.
Any grass will not grow normally in the area of permanent shade, which is in the immediate vicinity of buildings.
If you are planning to sow a lawn under an orchard or ornamental trees, then within the crown radius, the lawn has little chance of survival. Firstly, most of the nutrition will be taken by the root system of more powerful trees. Secondly, the branches will give a large amount of shade that interferes with the processes of photosynthesis. As a result, the grass will have a pale appearance. You will either have to sacrifice the lower branches of the trees and cut them off, or refuse to plant grass in this place.
If country cottage area located in a low-lying, waterlogged area, then the roots of the grasses will constantly rot. The lawn does not like waterlogging, so you will have to make high-quality drainage. True, there are mixtures of herbs that grow even with stagnant water, but even they do not show a constant excess of moisture.
If elevation changes are observed on the site, then at the transition points the soil is subject to erosion and leaching. You need to smooth the slopes so that their steepness does not exceed 30˚ and additionally reinforce with a mesh that will hold the soil, preventing it from crumbling.
You should not make a lawn path in a place of constant movement of people and cars, for example, from the gate to the house. By trampling the same track every day, you will compact the earth so much that the grass will lose oxygen to the roots and “suffocate”. Even sports mixes will not work in this case, because they are designed for heavy traffic of people throughout the site, and not in one narrow lane. If the desire to keep the area green is so great, then lay strips of tiles or wooden chocks between the lawn so that you step on them, and not on the grass.

Features of proper sowing

It is desirable that the drawing up of a rough draft of your future lawn should take place in the winter. Then, with the beginning of spring, you will immediately begin earthworks. Lawn mixtures show the best survival rate in early spring, when the earth is saturated with moisture and there is no strong heat. If the moment is missed, then you should not sow the lawn in the summer. Wait until the autumn days when the rains nourish the soil, and then proceed to sowing. But do not be late: before winter, a young lawn should leave after 1-2 mowings.

Preparing the soil for planting seeds

The order of work is as follows:

Clearing. First of all, the future site is cleared of all kinds of construction debris, stones. Stumps are uprooted, low-growing branches on trees are cut.
Destruction of weeds. Then it's time for weed control. They must either be weeded out by hand, destroying them along with the roots, or chemically treated. In the first case, you will spend a lot of physical strength on the destruction of weeds, but you can immediately proceed to the next stage of work. With chemical weeding, you will have to wait at least a week until the drug begins to have a destructive effect. That is why it is recommended to treat the soil with chemicals in the fall. Then the weeds will disappear during the winter, and the chemicals themselves will have time to decompose into safe elements and will not harm when planting the lawn.
Creation of a drainage system. If your site is in a lowland, then you need to save the earth from waterlogging. To do this, before digging up the lawn, make drainage. After rain, mark the places where water accumulates and dig deep holes (about a meter) in them. Line the bottom of the pits with broken bricks, then with coarse gravel, and over it with a layer of sand. Leave 40 cm on fertile soil. After planting, the water will go into the soil and through the soil into the drainage pit.
Site leveling and digging. On uneven areas, it is necessary to level the terrain so that the lawn has a flat horizontal. To do this, pull the cords to the pegs at different ends of the site and look at the level of the difference. The pits fall asleep, the bumps are cut. After that, the entire area is dug up. Perennial weed roots, debris and stones are removed. Sandy soils are fertilized with black soil or peat. Too greasy diluted with sand.
Ramming and loosening. Before, it is necessary to compact the soil tightly, walking on it in small steps or using a board. It is placed on the edge of the plot and jumped over it until the earth settles. Then they move the board and continue until they trample the entire area. You can also roll a thick log. As soon as you step on the ground, and it does not wash under your foot, the soil is ready for planting. It remains to slightly loosen it with a rake and sow it with a lawn mixture with the density recommended in the instructions.

After the earth is compacted, it is necessary to move the upper layer with a rake so that the seeds gain access to air and moisture.

grass sowing process

If you sow seeds with your own hands, then it is difficult to make the lawn even, like a brush, because the grass is scattered unevenly. As a result, some places will germinate densely, while others will grow weakly. To achieve uniformity, a portion of seeds calculated per meter of space is mixed with the same volume of fine sand and then sown. It is optimal to sow with a manual seeder, but you will not always find it on sale.

Sprinkle the seeds with earth and roll them with a log so that the birds do not peck. If the ground is dry, it is recommended to water from a small sprinkler under low water pressure so as not to wash the crops.

Information about lawn care technology will also be useful:

A manual seeder helps to save lawn grass seeds and at the same time the quality of plantings is more uniform.

Seeds are rolled with a special roller, and if it is not there, then they are slammed with a board or carefully trampled down with flat shoes

It remains to wait for the shoots and enjoy the beautiful lawn. By the way, along with the blades of grass, weeds will also climb. But they are no longer afraid of the lawn. After one or two mowings, annuals disappear without a trace, and the grass becomes a rich, thick carpet.

A country house with a plot does not have to be considered only as an object of permanent agricultural work. More and more owners prefer to turn their property into a zone for a comfortable stay, as close as possible to wildlife. Of course, there are masters striving every free square meter plow for planting certain garden crops. But you must agree that a well-groomed green lawn is also needed, which will delight the eye with its emerald color, and on which there will be expanse for children's games.

However, a neat grassy lawn is not at all a hindrance for gardening and horticulture work, as berry shrub plantings will fit perfectly on it, fruit trees. Gazebos, flower beds, alpine slides will help to complement the landscape. You will get a very well-groomed view of the entire site, and a minimum amount of dirt in the premises. But it should be correctly understood that a beautiful green lawn will never appear on its own - it takes a lot of effort to create it. Such services in our time are offered by many companies specializing in landscape design, however, the cost of such work is very considerable. But why not try it yourself? - of course you can and should! Let's consider this difficult, but very interesting question - how to create a well-groomed grass lawn on your site with your own hands.

You should not blindly take the word of someone who writes that, they say, "the lawn is simple." As you will soon see, a high-quality lawn will require a lot of work and time, mandatory compliance with all recommendations for its creation and maintenance. But the more significant the result will be!

Which lawn to choose?

Before starting any work, it is necessary to clearly understand what result you need to achieve. This also applies to lawns, as there are several varieties of them.

Parterre lawn

If we look at photographs in advertising tourist brochures, then many state residences, castles, palace complexes, museums, memorial sites are surrounded by an amazingly even, bright green, always evenly trimmed lawn. This is the most prestigious type, which is called parterre. He is able to please the eye with lush greenery from early spring and literally before snow falls, and his main, or rather, even the only role is only decorative.

Parterre lawns are characterized by very dense, dense, uniform, always short-cut grass growth. For planting, perennial grasses with thin stems and narrow elongated leaves are used, which tend to intensively bush. These include meadow bluegrass, thin bent grass, red fescue, but only special varieties that have passed breeding selection.

The main thing dignity parterre lawn - its exceptionally high decorative effect. But shortcomings in terms of creating such a lawn on your own site - more than enough:

The price of seeds for parterre lawn is very considerable, much higher than for all other types.
Grasses used for such lawns germinate much more slowly and “conquer space”. That is, the final result is relegated to a rather significant perspective.
To get a "carpet", as in advertising illustrations, it is necessary to carefully level and prepare the area for sowing grasses. Even very small irregularities will “cut the eye” against the general background of short-cut grass.
Characteristic appearance such a lawn is achieved by a constant, almost daily care. The set of measures includes regular watering with strict adherence to norms, fertilizing the soil with specially selected compounds, weed control, and, of course, frequent mowing, since the height of the grass must always be maintained at the same level.
The parterre lawn is only a decoration of the territory, and not only the organization of children's games, but even the simple movement of people is not allowed on it, with the exception of the need to perform lawn maintenance work. Such a lawn is not resistant to the load, trampled down and quickly loses its exclusive appearance.

In a word, there is something to think about - are the efforts to create such a lawn worth the fact that in the end there will be a well-groomed, “lordly”-looking territory, but completely “isolated” from the rest of the life of a suburban area?

Garden lawn

This type of lawn is also called universal or ordinary. All this is absolutely fair, since it is this variety that is most in demand.

Lawn prices

Such lawns are resistant to external mechanical stress - you can move freely on them, arrange zones for children's games on such lawns, have picnics, or just sunbathe in the sun. Properly selected grasses (depending on the climatic conditions and the specifics of the territory) have the proper resistance to shading or, conversely, to drought, are tenacious, quickly recovering, capable of winning the "competition" with weeds if planted correctly.

For a garden lawn, grass mixtures are usually used, which may include plants characteristic of the parterre variety, as well as forest and common bluegrass, sheep and furrowed fescue, rootless couch grass, common comb, perennial ryegars. Of course, planting material must be adapted to local climatic conditions.

By the way, this sometimes becomes a problem. Although this direction of landscape design has recently been actively developing in the regions of Russia, planting material is often imported from abroad. And many cases are already known when the seeds showed extremely low germination, or the resulting lawn could hardly be called such, since the grasses did not receive normal development. In any case, before purchasing seeds, it is worth consulting with local experts in the field of botany and agricultural technology. This, of course, applies to all types of lawns, and not just landscape gardening.

It should be added that a well-planted and well-groomed landscape gardening lawn from the side looks not much worse than the ground floor, and this at incomparably lower costs and efforts!

meadow lawn

If the owners do not like the excessive "combing" of the house lawn, they can choose a meadow lawn. By the way, it can be created from an existing landscape gardening plant by planting certain herbs that diversify the appearance of the territory with their flowering.

Grasses for overseeding are chosen such that they do not gain a large height before the period of their flowering. For these purposes, hybrid, red or white clover, blue, yellow or hop-like alfalfa, sowing sainfoin, and horned lyadvin are usually used. You can use several plants for overseeding - you get multi-colored lawns that look very nice against the general green background.

moorish lawn

It is in many ways similar to the meadow, but it only looks even brighter and “richer”. This is achieved by the fact that special flowering plants of various shades are used for overseeding, which creates a surprisingly beautiful living "carpet" on a green background. In fact, the Moorish lawn turns into a huge flowering flower bed. Moreover, if you choose the right seeds for it, then flowering can continue all summer - some plants will replace others.

It is even difficult to list all the flowering plants that are used in the Mauritanian lawn - there are more than forty of them. Cornflowers, poppies, calendula (marigolds), gypsophila, flax, nemesia are widely used. And yet, the composition of the mixture should be dominated by cereal plants, which create the necessary herbal background and are designed to displace weeds as much as possible. Usually, meadow bluegrass or shoot-bearing bent grass is used for these purposes. Other options are also possible - this is more dependent on local climatic conditions.

Of course, such a lawn will become a decoration of the site, and its popularity is growing steadily. But it should be noted that, nevertheless, the reviews about him are somewhat contradictory, since the owners of the plots place emphasis on both the merits of such lawns and their shortcomings.

Moorish lawn prices

Blooming moorish lawn

O virtues say the following:

First of all, it is the beauty and maximum proximity to the natural nature of such colorful lawns.
There are no particularly high requirements for the quality of the soil in the area where such forbs are planned.
Moorish lawn does not require frequent mowing - on the contrary, it is necessary to let the flowering plants fade and shed their seeds. Therefore, as a rule, they cut it only from one to three times per season.

However, there are also very important limitations :

Meadow flowers are always very demanding for regular abundant watering - such is their nature. The lack of moisture will lead to the rapid inhibition of flowering plants, depriving them of the possibility of reproduction, and such a lawn will be extremely short-lived even on the scale of one season, not to mention its revival after wintering, with the advent of next spring.
Since mowing is not expected, you will have to deal with the inevitable weeds literally by hand. And this is a very painstaking and very difficult task.
The abundance of flowers is sure to attract many insects. And, these are not only butterflies, but also bees with bumblebees, which will never lose sight of such a honey field. There is certainly nothing wrong with this, but if small children live in the house, then their games in the immediate vicinity of such a lawn or on it will be associated with a considerable probability of contact with these stinging, and often becoming quite aggressive insects.
Mass flowering on the lawn can be an irritant for people prone to allergic reactions due to the abundance of wind-blown pollen.

Nevertheless, such lawns are popular, and the developers of seed for them are trying to at least partially reduce some of the shortcomings. So, recently, planting mixtures with such plants have begun to appear on sale that do not impose excessively high requirements on the regularity and abundance of watering. They include sage, meadow cloves, echinacea, cornflowers, and even annual stem roses, which will stand out perfectly with their growth against the general background of the lawn.

sports turf

As the name implies, such a lawn is intended for sports games, but it is also often used in domestic conditions - it is excellent for places for active family recreation, for organizing play areas for children.

The main feature of such a lawn is its high resistance to loading and trampling. This quality is achieved by a specific selection of plants that create grass cover. Not only is only a very limited range of herbs selected - the material must also be of special varieties, which, through selection, were bred specifically for this purpose.

These herbs are usually

- Perennial or perennial ryegrass, varieties Stravinsky, Platinum, Neruda;

- Meadow grass meadow, varieties "Julius", "Miracle", "Panduro";

- Red fescue, varieties "Maritsa", "Blenheim", "Trophy";

- Shooting bent grass, varieties "Kromi", "Cobra Nova".

It must be said right away that a sports lawn is a rather expensive “pleasure”, which also requires very careful maintenance. Therefore, often for such purposes, they find another way out, which is the use of artificial lawns.

artificial turf

Polymer turf was originally designed as a replacement for natural sports turf. But gradually their scope is expanding - new types become almost indistinguishable from natural grass, even when viewed from a close distance. And now they are widely used, including for decorating areas where it is either impossible or extremely difficult to grow a natural lawn. They are also excellent for areas with maximum traffic intensity - this is again, for example,.

Children will not be able to trample such a lawn, besides, even after rainy weather (subject to high-quality drainage), children will not get smeared in mud and will not put it into the house.

Initially, the main material for the manufacture of artificial blades of grass was polypropylene. However, given the complaints of athletes who played in similar fields that when falling and sliding on such a coating, skin burns were not ruled out, manufacturers mainly switched to polyethylene.

There are many varieties of artificial turf. They can be without a drainage base - they are used only indoors, or with a drainage base that freely passes water - for outdoor placement.

Lawns can be non-filled - intended solely for decorative purposes, since it is not recommended to walk on them - there are “grass” bruises. Most common- semi-sleeping species, in which the space between the blades of grass is filled to a certain height clean fine quartz sand. This creates the necessary rigidity of the pile, ensures its resistance to constant loads. It is these lawns that will be the best solution for children's playgrounds. Well, the most rigid and durable, designed for high-intensity loads (real sports grounds and arenas) are backfill lawns, in which as aggregate, in addition to quartz sand, you also use rubber granulate.

Advantages artificial lawns:

They are good for specific purposes - which have already been mentioned above.
They are often chosen by those owners who wish to turn their site into a well-groomed lawn in a very short time. Lawns are sold in roll mats, and are laid end-to-end on the prepared surface when rolling. The seams between the strips, thanks to a special glue or tape, become invisible.

Such a coating allows you not to make special efforts to maintain its appearance. Yes, sometimes it may be necessary to wash the "grass" with water from a hose or "comb" it with a rake. But no haircuts, watering, fertilizing, weed control! And the service life of high-quality coatings from leading manufacturers can even reach 15 years!
You don’t have to worry about artificial turf that it will freeze out in an abnormally cold winter, and will not rise on time in the spring due to prolonged cold weather. Or, conversely, it will not wither or turn yellow in too hot summer weather.
The range of artificial turfs on sale is not limited to "sports-type" surfaces. Modern technologies allow to produce very reliable imitations of meadow grass, up to 100 mm high, with "floral" patches or "mossy" fragments. Coloring of various tones is used, creating a special effect of naturalness. So, even looking closely, it's hard to believe that in front of you - just synthetics, not to mention a distance of a couple of meters - the lawn is almost indistinguishable from natural grass.

Disadvantages of artificial turf:

The most important and obvious is, even with the maximum visual similarity, it is still unnatural grass, and it still cannot afford to recreate the atmosphere that is inherent in natural lawns. Supporters of environmental cleanliness in the countryside completely reject such coatings, or make them only in very limited areas, for example, on a playground.
The simplicity and speed of laying a lawn does not at all exclude very laborious preparatory operations - cleaning and planning the site, creating drainage, backfilling a sand cushion with subsequent careful ramming with a vibrating plate, and other events.
There can be no normal biological background in such a “grass”, but pathogenic microorganisms in it take root quite well. Therefore, the risk of injuring the skin to bring any infection is quite high.
On a hot sunny day, plastic blades of grass can get very hot, up to 60 degrees. This, of course, makes staying on such a lawn very uncomfortable.
Artificial turf does not have the ability to recover - if the coating is damaged, then it must be completely replaced.
The cost of such materials is very impressive. And, by the way, this also suggests that such lawns should be laid only near houses with permanent residence hosts. It is dangerous to leave them unattended even for a week, as the "lawn" can simply be stolen.

Since artificial lawns stand apart, we will not consider them in the future in the course of the publication - we will still focus on natural lawns.

Above was considered, so to speak, the main classification of lawns. However, in practice, one has to deal with more "mundane" selection criteria, closely related to the characteristics of a particular site and the expected specifics of its operation.

artificial turf prices

artificial turf

By the way, companies specializing in this area often offer an extremely scrupulous division of lawn types into small classes. Most often, it “smells” like a marketing trap here. For example, very expensive planting material is offered to create a special “lawn for a children's zone”, in the expectation that parents will definitely not spare money for children. However, if we consider the composition, then it turns out to be practically identical to a quality sports turf which is already much cheaper.

Below is a table that may give a "first impetus" to right choice lawn.

Features of the plot under the lawn, the expected conditions of its operation	Which lawn is the best
Perfectly flat areas with fertile soil. The movement of people on the lawn is not expected - the lawn will have an exclusively decorative purpose.	Parterre type lawn with grass mixture, including white bent grass and meadow fescue. The coating will be uniform and even, but unstable to loads and requiring especially careful maintenance.
Plots with not particularly fertile soil, areas along garden areas are more expensive, in a garden with high beds, trees and shrubs, along fences, and in other “inconveniences”.	Universal garden lawn. It is unpretentious in care, able to withstand minor loads, tolerates other adverse effects well. The predominant plants are meadow bluegrass, ryegrass, red fescue. Feature - the lawn requires a fairly frequent haircut.
An area with a high intensity of movement of people. Territory for family recreation in nature. Areas allocated for children's games, for dog walking areas.	Sports lawn. Regular mowing is necessary, but as a result, the grass surface becomes quite rigid and able to withstand a very significant regular load. The composition of the grass mixture: the predominance of meadow fescue and ryegrass.
Heavily shaded areas - among densely planted trees, along high fences on the north side, between adjacent capital buildings.	Special landscape gardening lawn for shady areas. The composition of the grass mixture will certainly include bent shoots, ryegrass and red fescue. The resulting "carpet" does not look too dense, but it is able to grow in heavily shaded conditions without additional artificial lighting.
An open area in a region with a predominance of summer hot sunny and dry weather. In other words, where ordinary grass burns out very quickly in the sun.	Special garden lawns for sunny areas. The grasses included in the planting material are highly resistant to droughts, retaining a picturesque green color even under the influence of direct sunlight and hot wind. Such mixtures are usually dominated by fescue - cane and red.

Planting a lawn with your own hands

Activities for the creation of a natural grass lawn can be divided into several successive stages. This is pre-training. plot, tillage and preparation of the soil, planting seeds of the grass mixture, followed by watering and primary cutting of the sprouted grass.

Grass area preparation

You should never make a lawn in sections, they say, this year I will plant only a part of the territory allocated for it, and next year I will continue. Experienced masters of landscape design unanimously advise - the entire site should be prepared and sown at the same time. No matter how hard the host tries, with such a vicious approach, to dock the fragments executed in different time, the lines of such "seams" will still appear. So, just one at a time!

By the way, on topic. In many countries where the lawn culture is extremely developed (for example, Great Britain or Canada), the continuous arrangement of green lawns is generally practiced, especially in the territories of mansions put up for sale. Thus, the new owners then decide for themselves where to lay gardens, where to place beds and flower beds, where to organize recreation areas and playgrounds. Well, a continuous lawn is taken by buyers for granted.

The amount of preparatory work largely depends on the initial state of the territory.

First of all, the primary marking of the territory is carried out, that is, the boundaries of the future lawn are determined. This place can be marked, for example, with pegs driven into the corners.
It is necessary to remove all debris, large and medium stones from the intended site. It may be necessary to remove shrub plants (they must be dug up with the roots), uprooting of stumps. If fragments of wood are found half-submerged in the ground, they also cannot be left, since this place can become a breeding ground for toadstool mushrooms.
If the site has not been previously cultivated, then it is almost certainly covered with a dense turf "carpet". Such an area without preliminary preparation is unsuitable for planting a lawn. So there is a very laborious operation ahead - cutting the sod.

Performing this operation with a conventional shovel is rather inconvenient. And in order to facilitate their work in this matter, and the turf was cut at about the same height from the ground level (usually it is 20 ÷ 30 mm), home craftsmen come up with various devices. One of them is shown in the figure below.

You can also call local firms specializing in the field of park management or landscape design - many of them are “in service” with special sod removal machines.

Yes, such services, of course, are not free. But on the other hand, the quality of cutting the turf sharply increases - a single thickness of the removed “carpet” is ensured, there is a very significant gain in time and effort expended on this operation.

The next important operation will be the quality leveling of the site. It is necessary to achieve evenness of the territory, without bumps, mounds, pits, ditches and other pronounced irregularities. In general, the smoother the area, the better the green lawn will look.

The following should be understood correctly - we are not talking about making the territory flat, like a table, and bringing it to an exact horizontal. This is sometimes impossible, but from a practical point of view - and completely no need. It is necessary to proceed, probably, from the fact that on the created lawn there should not be interference for the lawn mower, and a complete insurance from the fact that a running child stumbles over a bump or gets his foot into a hole.

And so, if the site has a slope, or there is a gentle hillock on it - yes to health: it’s not bad for draining rainwater, and it looks very original. But bumps, bumps - will have to be cut to a general level. Well, pits, ditches or other depressions - on the contrary, fill them very tightly with soil. For such filling, soil is used, cut from protruding irregularities, or delivered from other areas. But - necessarily fertile, so that unnecessary bald spots are not created, which may appear after the germination of lawn grass. Sometimes there is a need to purchase high-quality soil for such purposes - it is better if it is on a peat basis.

At the same stage of work, if necessary, one more cleaning of the soil from stones and other foreign inclusions is carried out, which will be revealed after cutting the sod and planning the surface.

This leveling is still rough, as there are still a number of operations related to the cultivation of the land before planting.

By the way, if the site is located in a lowland, or stagnation occurs - rain or melt water does not leave it for a long time, then you will have to immediately provide for an effective drainage system. We will not talk about it now - a separate article is devoted to this issue.

Don't forget about the water drainage system from the site!

Since the gasket drainage pipes and the installation of wells is always associated with a large amount of excavation work, it is more rational to carry it out in parallel with the preliminary leveling of the area for the lawn, so as not to return to this issue later. When you need it, and how to organize it yourself - read about it in a special publication of our portal.

Digging up the site, loosening the earth, eliminating weeds

Next milestone will be digging the site. It's on small areas it is carried out manually, with a pitchfork or a shovel, and on large sites it is better to use equipment, for example, a motor cultivator. The depth of digging should be approximately 200-250 mm (shovel bayonet), however, on soils with a thin layer of humus, the depth may be less (but not less than 150 mm).

Prices for popular motor cultivators

During the digging of the territory, sometimes the necessary fertilizers are immediately applied (their composition is selected individually, depending on the degree of soil fertility). With heavy, clayey soils, sand is added to the soil to “lighten” it, increase its fertility and drainage capacity.

In the course of work, inclusions that were not previously identified are very often found - stones, half-rotted snags, and other debris. All this is subject to unconditional removal - a wheelbarrow or a bucket for collecting such garbage should always be at hand. Often, hardworking owners literally shake up the whole earth by hand, breaking up clods and also removing the rhizomes that previously grew here. perennials to keep the soil clean.

Particular care must be taken to ensure that all clods are crushed to the depth of digging, so that the maximum clod size does not exceed, say, a grain of wheat. Judging by the reviews posted on the relevant forums, they even resort to cultivating the land three times.

If there is no cultivator, then all hope is in the hands and repeated passage with a landscape rake. Such a tool can be purchased at the store, but sometimes it is also made independently, especially since once the lawn is sown, the rake will subsequently be constantly needed to care for it.

For example, for the manufacture of such a rake, a sheet of duralumin with a thickness of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm and a size of 1000 × 200 mm is suitable. One side of the plate remains flat - it will be convenient to distribute and level the soil if necessary, and teeth are cut on the opposite side. Their optimal size: tooth width - 10 mm, height - 40÷50 mm.

In the center of the plate, a long handle is fitted in an accessible way for the master (you can make it 2 meters long, and even more if it is convenient to work with). And, in fact, the tool is ready.

Learn how to do and also check out useful homemade for cultivating the land, in a special article of our portal.

Clods of earth can not be broken immediately only if the digging was carried out in late autumn, with the expectation of final processing and sowing of the lawn in the spring. It will be even better this way - during the winter and early spring, snow, melt water and rains will do their job, and loosening and breaking up lumps will be greatly simplified.

But even after this operation of digging and loosening the earth, it is too early to move on to planting a lawn. It is recommended to immediately resolve the issue with weeds, the seeds of which are likely to be in the upper layers of the soil. As you know, digging up the earth is always followed by a literally explosive growth of weed plants, and this must be used. Therefore, the following algorithm of actions is considered optimal: plowing and loosening - waiting for weeds to germinate - treating them with herbicide over green mass - rolling the site - shallow loosening and planting seeds.

For the destruction of weeds, as they say, "on the vine", they use proven herbicides, for example, Roundup.

This is a compound of continuous action, that is, it will destroy all plants indiscriminately. Penetrating through the leaves root system, he oppresses and gradually kills her, as a result of which the whole plant dies - the main thing is not to let it fade. A few hours after spraying, the drug becomes completely harmless, and dead plants do not have any effect at all. negative impact on the fertility and purity of the soil.

After germination, processing and subsequent death of weeds, deep tillage can no longer be carried out - firstly, at a depth there may be unsprouted seeds, and everything will then have to start all over again. And secondly, the site is already planned, and it is probably not worth disturbing the leveled surface much.

The whole point of treating the site with a herbicide is that this creates favorable conditions for the germination and primary development of lawn grasses. In the future, a high-quality lawn will cope with many weeds on its own - it will not give them a “move”. Well, with others - you will need the help of the owners.

Soil rolling on the site

The lawn must have a solid foundation. A penny will be the price of a grassy “carpet”, which will begin to sag under the weight of a person, or on which a rut is made from an ordinary lawn mower. Therefore, the next stage of preparation is a thorough tamping, or rather, rolling the territory.

By rolling, another goal is also achieved - loose areas or even air cavities may well remain in the ground, which subsequently will necessarily appear on the finished lawn in sagging places. So, in order to achieve a high-quality appearance of the lawn, rolling is carried out very carefully, preferably in several passes.

A roller is required for this operation. It can be purchased or rented, but many owners get out of the situation in another way. So, for example, they make peculiar drags from boards or a steel profile (cutting a channel or an I-beam). You can also make a full-fledged ice rink - for this, a piece of pipe with a diameter of 300 mm or more is poured with concrete, while not forgetting to place an axis in the center, for which the handle loops of steel reinforcement will be hooked. The old ones go gas cylinders, metal barrels, logs - in a word, a creative owner will find a way out.

Rake prices

One more nuance: it has already been said that when rolling, areas with low soil density can be detected - they will begin to sag under the weight of the rink. But close up, this is not always possible to notice, without having any guideline. Therefore, it is recommended that before performing this operation, drive in pegs and pull the cords at a level parallel to the surface of the future lawn. The cords are pulled so that they cross the site in several directions.

So it will become much easier to immediately notice the deviations of the surface from the general level after rolling - here it will be necessary to add loosened soil, and then roll it again. If there are indentations from the soles of the shoes, they do the same - they make a backfill, level it with a rake, and then roll it again. Leaving such dents is by no means impossible.

Usually, this stage of work is completed by applying pre-sowing fertilizers, which are scattered in the right amount on a leveled surface. The very first rain or watering will ensure their penetration into the surface layer of the soil, which is necessary for the rapid growth of young grass. As a rule, for a good “start” of lawn planting, compounds containing nitrogen, potassium and, of course, phosphorus are used - it is this microelement that stimulates the active development of the “young growth” root system.

As a rule, pre-sowing fertilizer is applied approximately 7-10 days before planting seeds. The rules and amount of fertilizer application are prescribed by the manufacturer on the package, but it is best, of course, to consult with specialists in your region - a lot depends on climatic conditions and the specifics of the soil.

By the way, often the seeds of lawn grass mixtures are sold already mixed with starter fertilizers - this is convenient from the standpoint that both operations can be done, as they say, in one go.

First of all, you need to correctly determine the time of planting grass. There are no ready-made "recipes" here, since much in this matter depends on the characteristics of the region of residence. But general recommendations can be given.

Most often practiced spring or autumn lawn planting. Each of the options has its own advantages and disadvantages.

It is recommended to carry out spring sowing of seeds as early as possible. The grass will have time to germinate, get stronger during the summer and autumn, and it will no longer be afraid of winter frosts. It seems to be - everything is simple and clear. But it is not so.

For early landing, the territory must have already passed all the phases of preparation, which were mentioned above. That is, in fact, the site must be cleared of weeds, dug up and leveled in the fall, so that in the spring, immediately before planting, all that remains is to fertilize, roll the soil and then proceed to sowing.

If you start to carry out the whole range of work in the spring, then the planting itself will shift to about the beginning of summer. And this, let's say, is no longer very favorable for a young lawn, on the eve of the hottest and driest summer period.

However, early landing, even if the site is ready, is also fraught with certain inconveniences. It is in the spring that weeds have their “explosive power. And the seeds of weeds, even if a “major cleaning” was carried out in the fall, will inevitably fall on the site - they are carried by the wind, birds and animals, rain and melt water. So there will be much more problems with the destruction of weeds on an already sprouted lawn.

Planting a lawn in late summer or early autumn still looks optimal.

In the spring, site preparation begins - all in accordance with the list of activities discussed above. There is time to calmly wait for the shoots of weed grasses to qualitatively kill them in the bud with herbicides. If necessary, such treatment can be repeated if there is a “second wave” of summer weed plants.

This period of summer “downtime” is often also called “fallow fallow”. By the way, the land may not just stand "naked" - it will be very nice if, after the "battle with the weed" is completed, it is sown with green manure herbs. In this capacity, mustard, vetch, lupine, phacelia, field peas, rapeseed, oats, oilseed radish can be used - often they are even sold in in the form of a ready-made planting mixture.

Green manure planting is usually carried out about a month and a half before the proposed sowing of lawn grass. During this time, the plants will have time to rise well, gain strength and juices, and grow. And already a few days before the planned planting, the green mass is first mowed without removing the cut grass, and then they are dug up along with the roots. Such a measure will significantly improve the structure of the soil, enrich the soil with nitrogen and other essential microelements, and in exactly the form that is optimal for assimilation by young shoots of lawn grass. After that, of course, you will have to level and roll the ground in order to proceed to planting the lawn, but the rapid growth of grass on such enriched soil fully compensates for the additional effort.

When planting a lawn before autumn or autumn, it is very important to correctly calculate so that the seedlings have time to get stronger and, as they say, “prepare for wintering”. But here it is already necessary to carefully calculate all the specifics of local conditions, the features of the herbs used for planting and the possible risks.

- For example, it should be borne in mind that ryegrass sprouts and gains strength very quickly, and it can be mowed, even repeatedly, before the onset of cold weather. But the bluegrass, in comparison with it, loses significantly in this matter, and if you are late with planting, then the seedlings may well be hit by the first serious frosts.

- It is not particularly recommended to sow in the second half of September and later. The probability is too high that the seedlings will be unfriendly, since the optimal weather conditions have, to be honest, already missed. And young shoots run the risk of being destroyed at the first "breath of winter", which often occurs in October.

- Late autumn planting is fraught with danger even if in the region of residence December is often marked by sharp warming, up to 10 degrees and above. The plants "deceived" by the heat begin to develop actively, and if then such a "pseudo-spring" is replaced by long frosts without snow, then the lawn can be hopelessly damaged. True, for the most part, this refers to the primary, only sprouted shoots. According to experienced masters in the field of landscape design, if a young lawn managed to survive the first haircut before the onset of cold weather, then it is almost guaranteed that it will successfully winter and actively grow in the spring.

So in those cases when the owners hesitated, and the optimal disembarkation time has already been missed, there are two ways to do it:

- The first is to postpone the planting of the lawn until the spring. This case has already been considered above.

- The second option is to carry out a late planting, but this will be possible only with a guaranteed onset of cold weather before the seeds germinate. In this case, they simply overwinter in the ground. They are not afraid of frosts - they will even harden at the same time, and in the spring, at the time appointed by nature, they will begin to develop.

In any case, it will never be superfluous to get qualified advice from a specialist familiar with the characteristics of local agriculture.

Find out how to do it, and also read the tips for landscaping the site in a special article on our portal.

Lawn planting

By itself, landing should no longer require a large number time and effort. True, there are some nuances here.

On packages with grass mixture seeds, their approximate consumption per unit area is usually indicated, for example, 20 g / m² - this should be followed. But how can this be controlled in practice?

Of course, the best way out is to use special seeders. They can be wheeled or portable, but the main thing is that they allow you to set the approximate consumption of seeds. If it is possible to purchase or rent such a device, landing will be much easier.

By the way, their acquisition is not such a big waste, and these convenient devices will come in handy for the owner of the site more than once: for fertilizing and fertilizing, for sowing grass on the bald spots that have appeared, for “exploring new territories” under the impression of the resulting lawn.

However, “folk remedies” are also practiced, from scattering seeds according to the ancient “method” of sowers, to making homemade gadgets from cans or plastic bottles.

How to properly distribute the seeds over the site in order to ensure the required sowing density? It's best to do it this way:

To begin with, divide the territory of the future lawn into several sections of a certain area, for example, by stretching the same cords.
It is necessary to walk along the surface of the soil with a fan or lawn rake to form shallow grooves.
Before sowing, after opening the package, carefully move its contents to ensure even distribution of plant seeds throughout the volume. different types and additives that accelerate their growth.
Then, the prepared mixed inoculum must be divided into portions required for each of the plots, in accordance with the recommended population.
After that, divide each of the portions in two more.
Sowing of each of the designated areas is carried out in two steps, first scattering the seeds in one direction, and then, the second half of the portion divided in half - in a perpendicular direction. This will ensure proper seed density per square meter of land.

After the seeds are distributed over the surface, they are shallowly planted into the soil (cultivation of the upper layer). So the seeds will be a little buried, protected from wind and birds. A large cultivation depth is not required - 10 ÷ 15 mm is enough.

The next stage is already familiar to us - this is again compaction, that is, rolling the top layer of soil, but already with the seeds introduced.

Moreover, it is desirable to carry out this procedure twice - the second time the direction of rolling the soil is changed to perpendicular.

After such a planting, you can proceed to watering, unless, of course, according to forecasts for today or tomorrow, they do not promise rain. You need to be very careful with watering - strong jets can damage the evenness of the surface of the future lawn, wash the seeds out. Therefore, it is best to use sprinkler irrigation systems, which give a fine spray of jets, like a light drizzle.

If the weather is dry, then watering planted lawn carried out daily, but not in the heat of the day, so that the earth is not covered with crusts and cracks. Watering should be plentiful, but not excessive, so that the site does not turn into a "swamp".

Learn how to do and also check out 2 the best options, in a special article of our portal.

Quality seeds begin to appear as sprouts, usually within a week. But this is a conditional period, which largely depends on the climatic region, landing time and current weather.

At first, the seedlings may not seem quite uniform. You should not be afraid, since the seeds of various plants were included in the mixture, and they may have slightly different pecking periods. And the lawn will start to really please the eye in about two or three weeks, when it will turn into a solid green lawn.

It is clear that the lawn has not yet grown strong and has not entered into full force, but the grass has already taken root and should develop successfully, conquering the “living space” allocated to it. So quietly comes the time for the first haircut, but it should be preceded by one recommended procedure.

After the sprouts rise to a height of about 50 to 80 mm, it is advisable to sweep the lawn, remove fallen leaves from it. Then they walk through the grass with a light roller, in order to crush the soil that has swollen during seed germination, which will ensure the emergence of new shoots. True, rolling is not recommended on loamy soil. This can lead to the formation of a surface crust, which will interfere with the further development of plants.

After that, a pause is made until the grass rises again - and now the first haircut is being carried out, while removing no more than 20 mm. At this stage, the sharpness of the lawnmower blades is extremely important, since the blades of grass are not yet rooted enough, and they can simply be torn out of the ground.

After that, in fact, we can say that the creation of the lawn was successful.

The lawn is created and pleases the eyes of the owners. But their troubles with him do not end there. Ahead - a lot of diverse activities to care for him. These are regular watering and mowing, fertilization and aeration of the soil, weed control and “resuscitation” of bald patches. It is very difficult to consider all such a complex of tasks on the scale of one publication. Therefore, a separate article will be devoted to all these issues, which will continue to be called “Lawn Care”. It will appear on the pages of the portal in the near future - stay tuned!

Video: How to properly plant a lawn on your own

Today, more and more owners of private and country houses pay attention to landscape design. Many people want the summer cottage to have not only a practical function (garden, kitchen garden), but also a decorative one. And just having a picnic on the green grass is an unpleasant pastime.

A neatly trimmed lawn looks beautiful in any area. But with natural grass, there is a lot of trouble: watering, fertilizing, treating weeds and insects, etc. Artificial turf can be an excellent alternative to natural, since today its manufacturing technologies make it possible to make it as close as possible to real grass, both in color and in texture.

Artificial

This type of lawn is most often used on children's and sports grounds, tennis courts. The benefits of artificial turf are obvious. Firstly, it has increased frost and wear resistance. Secondly, it does not need watering and additional processing. And, thirdly, it does not leave stains on clothes, which usually appear after contact with real grass.

artificial turf

When laying artificial turf, the main thing is to follow the instructions clearly. First you need to lay out the lawn on a flat surface so that the blades of grass straighten. Next, use a construction knife and divide it into several parts, depending on the project and the area of \u200b\u200bthe site. You can fix the lawn on the surface using special glue, which is included with the purchase.

Caring for artificial turf is also effortless. General cleaning is recommended about once every two months. In inclement seasons, the frequency can be increased. If you treat this duty in bad faith, the lawn may not only lose its original appearance, but also deteriorate due to the formation of moss or mold on damp areas.

Liquid

What is liquid turf? This is a mixture of fertilizers, seeds and a special compound that allows the grass to grow quickly. Applying it to the ground is very simple: a hose is connected to the container with the composition. Thanks to a convenient sprayer, the composition covers the desired area of \u200b\u200bthe land evenly. It is instantly absorbed, and the result is noticeable after a week. Within 14 days after "planting" the area will be covered with even grass of juicy green color.

liquid lawn

In what cases can such a lawn be suitable? For example, when the soil is infertile. The amount and combination of fertilizers and other substances allows grass to grow even in it. Or if you need to cover a large area of land. The sprayer will allow you to do this in a short time.

Hello, dear readers of our blog, who want to give their site an impeccable look!

Soil landscaping should be started at the final stage of arranging the territory - at the end of all construction work, wiring of communications, and installation of the main decorative elements.

Think over the site plan in advance and determine the places where the emerald carpet will be located. The most suitable lawn options for a private house are meadow or park. They are resistant to trampling and other mechanical influences, have a decent appearance and do not require painstaking care.

In such clearings, you can break flowerbeds, put sun loungers, and it’s not even scary to play ball or badminton. To create them, perennial cereal plants are usually used:

meadow bluegrass,
ryegrass,
bent,
fescue,
comb.

It is easier to achieve a uniform cover if you use one variety of seeds, rather than a grass mixture. At the same time, the probability of avoiding fragments of different shades and textures is higher.

In the case of a meadow lawn, one type of grass is taken as the basis, which should make up at least 80% of the seed, and then the rest are added to it in small quantities.

If you want the turf to be hardy, durable and endure various natural phenomena, the onslaught of weeds, pest attacks and diseases, in this case you need to combine several types of herbs.

When choosing seeds, pay attention to the following aspects:

Climate . Consider the ability of plants to tolerate certain weather conditions that are characteristic of your region. For example, harsh winters are not afraid of bluegrass meadow, various types of fescue, bent grass. What can not be said about ryegrass, which, in addition, does not tolerate drought.
The degree of shading of the site . For sunny areas, meadow bluegrass, thin bent grass, clover and perennial ryegrass are suitable. In dimly lit places, it is better to plant fescue.
Soil moisture level . Bluegrass, clover, red fescue and thin bent grass are unpretentious in this regard. Moisture-loving plants include sheep fescue and shoot bent grass. While perennial ryegrass does not take root on damp soils.
Manufacturer. Give preference only to proven, well-established firms. These include Danish and Dutch brands, but domestic brands, unfortunately, rarely please with their quality.
Price. A good product, respectively, and is not cheap. Therefore, trying to save money on grass seeds can lead to even more significant expenses later.
Best before date. Often they simply forget about this nuance, and if the material turns out to be overdue, all further actions to create a lawn will be meaningless.

Preferably in specialized stores with a good reputation and a high rating.

Preliminary work before laying the lawn

This is the most responsible and troublesome stage in the formation of the lawn. After all, the more thoroughly you prepare the ground, the better your future lawn will be.

It is better to start activities in the spring, so that in the summer the herbage is properly rooted and strengthened:

In an overgrown area, you will need to remove all foreign objects (garbage, stones, branches, etc.), uproot roots and stumps.
After that, completely remove the weeds. For a more effective result, it is better to use continuous herbicides containing glyphosate (Hurricane, Roundup, Argument, Napalm), since it is impossible to select all the roots mechanically, and even small particles cannot be left - they will definitely germinate again.

Treat the soil with chemicals at temperatures above 25 ºC in dry weather without wind and only growing plants.

Then it is necessary to pour a generous layer of fertile soil and plow with it or properly dig the earth to a depth of at least 30 cm, breaking up large clods.
With excessive moisture at the lowest level, make drainage from crushed stone or gravel. Dilute clay soil with sand, and sandy soil with compost. It is also important that the acidity is within the normal range: for lawn grass 5-6 pH. With an increased indicator, it can be corrected by adding acidic peat, and with a reduced indicator, limestone, dolomite or calcite can be added.

Then, with the help of a cultivator and a rake, proceed to loosening and leveling the site. You should end up with a completely smooth surface. You can use a wide board, dragging it with an edge along the surface, or a special roller. This will fill in all the depressions and smooth out the bumps.

Moisten the soil well a few days before planting. If puddles have appeared in some places, add earth there, otherwise later bald spots will form in these areas or moss will grow.
Now apply mineral fertilizers to strengthen the root system and stimulate growth - the best is a nitrogen mixture (nitroammophoska) or a starter complex, which, in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, includes iron, zinc and other trace elements.
Immediately before sowing the seeds, the earth must be tamped to prevent subsidence (for this it must be completely dry), and then lightly walk on it with a rake.

How to sow seeds of lawn plants?

There are several ways to landscaping the soil:

regular planting,
turf laying,
hydroseeding.

You can get a green carpet quickly with the help of ready-made rolls. True, in order to properly lay them, you need to know the technology.

These methods have their own advantages and disadvantages. We will consider in detail the first traditional method, especially popular among gardeners. He impresses me more than others.

You can sow lawn grass only in dry, calm weather. For planting, it is better to use a mechanical seeder, but in the absence of one, you can also handle it manually.

It is best to use the technique of cross-seeding, i.e. first spread the seeds along the site, and then across, to a depth of no more than 1.5 cm.

To help, we offer you a detailed video on how to properly sow lawn grass on the site. Perhaps, looking at the whole process from the outside, you will come to the conclusion that doing it yourself is not so difficult.

How much does it cost to make a lawn?

The price mainly depends on the desired quality, because on the basis of this the materials are selected and the preparatory work is carried out. Not the last role in the formation of the cost is played by the specifics of the relief and the properties of the soil.

A conventional sowing lawn is the most economical, especially if you do it yourself. In this case, you will only have to spend money on plant seeds, fertilizers and herbicides.

On average, one hundred acres of grass cover will cost 20,000 rubles. For comparison, a hydroseeding lawn will be about 1.5 times more expensive, and a rolled lawn will be 2 times more expensive.

It is worth noting that with any option you can get an excellent result. A reasonable question arises: why pay more?

Typical mistakes when landscaping a site

Why is it that not everyone succeeds in growing a beautiful lawn? Let's look at the main reasons:

Wrong selection of seeds. Often the significance of this issue is neglected and they buy lawn grass, like from a neighbor or from an advertisement, without going into the features of the relief, soil, location of the lawn, climatic conditions. A grass mixture may have excellent characteristics, but is simply not suitable for your area.
Haste in preparing the site, especially when leveling it. It is important to perform all actions in the correct sequence. After leveling the lawn area for the first time, be sure to let the soil stand, and then repeat the procedure to identify and eliminate possible irregularities after the soil has settled.
Lack of drainage system. Excess moisture is just as damaging to the lawn as its lack. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the composition of the soil. In the case of the predominance of clay or black soil in it, it is necessary to ensure an unhindered outflow of water. Otherwise, you will have to constantly fight mold, moss and bald spots.
Heterogeneous sowing of grass. At this stage, too, you can not rush. It is better to spend a few extra hours landing than to fill empty places all summer long here and there.

Conclusion

By following our advice, you can avoid such mistakes and achieve the best result.