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Technology of installation of a fence from a metal chain-link mesh. TTK. Installation of fences and railings made of steel mesh

3d mesh made of metal rods is one of the most sought-after materials for building a fence structure. The mesh fence is distinguished by high strength, long-term performance, low price. Such characteristics cause a wide demand of customers for a 3 d grid.

How a 3d mesh is made

3d mesh is made of hot-dip galvanized wire. The production process is fully automated. Processed wire of various diameters is cut into metal rods required diameter, from which the panel is subsequently welded. For welding, a point method is used, the use of which does not deform the 3d mesh.

On the finished panel a V-shaped bend of 100 mm is made, which increases the rigidity of the structure.

After cleaning, washing and drying, the panel is painted, followed by baking in a polymerization oven, due to which a high-strength polymer layer is formed on the section, which protects the finished product from corrosion.

Assortment of 3 d fence meshes

Our company offers a wide range of 3d mesh for the fence and all the equipment necessary for a complete fencing device.

Components of the standard line:

    3d fence mesh - 1730x2500 mm, 2030x2500 mm, 2030x3000 mm, section bar diameter - 3-5 mm;

    pillars 60x40x1.4, height 2000 - 3000 mm;

    gates 1530x1000 mm, 1730x1000 mm, 2030x1000 mm, dp 3 - 5 mm;

    gate 1730x4000 mm, 2030x4000 mm, 3.4 mm.

    fasteners - set Clamp 40x60, bracket with bolt or self-tapping screw;

    V-shaped and L-shaped pommel set SBB 500

    AKL SBB 500/50/3 Bay (10m)

    wire clamp

Color of ready decisions of a standard line - green (RAL 6005).

Coating type: just galvanized and galvanized + polymer

Our company has its own production, so we can also make a custom-made fence according to the size of an existing project.

Size range of non-standard solutions:

    3d fence mesh - height 1530 - 2930 mm, width up to 3100 mm, dp 3 - 5 mm;

    pillars - wall thickness 1.4 - 3.5 mm, section 60x40, 60x60, 80x80, height 1000 - 12000 mm;

    gates - height 1530 - 2930 mm, width 1000 - 1000 mm;

    gate - height 1730 - 2930 mm, width 3000 - 6000 mm.

For painting, any color of the RAL range is used.

How to buy a 3 d fence mesh

It is profitable to buy a 3 d mesh for a fence in our company due to the absence of an intermediary margin. In addition to the low price, you get high quality, backed by product test certificates and a service life guarantee of up to 60 years.


In our company, you can buy a 3d mesh of any standard size from a standard line of ready-made solutions or place an order for production.

To contact a customer service specialist, leave a request for a call back or call the regional office yourself. You can also request a calculation for your volume by sending an application by e-mail.

The manager will advise you in detail on all positions, inform you about availability, calculate the cost, organize door-to-door delivery and turnkey installation. A wide network of warehouses throughout the country allows the customer to buy a 3d mesh directly in his region.

How to install a 3d mesh fence.

Installation of a 3d mesh fence is quite simple. Most often, the involvement of special equipment is not required, as is the case with concrete and brick fences.

You will need a team of at least 3 people and working tools for installation. Before starting work, we recommend that you read the installation instructions for the fence mesh 3 d.

A metal mesh netting is a building material made of steel wire, which is woven into a kind of bundle. Its dimensions: length 10-20 meters, width 1.5-4 meters. Cells in the grid are square, diamond-shaped or rectangular. Each cell has a size of about 25-60 millimeters.

There are several types of this grid:

  • Mesh made of black wire. It is called non-galvanized and does not last long;
  • Galvanized is quite reliable, serves more than 20 years, is resistant to different types corrosion;
  • The mesh is plasticized, has an anti-corrosion polymer coating. This makes it look aesthetically pleasing.

To determine the required amount of material needed to install the fence, you need to mark the land. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the land plot, then a cord (cable) is laid through them. The length of the laid cord or cable must be equal to the length of the fence being installed.

Installation and strengthening of pillars

After marking the site, it is required to install poles for the future fence. Their number directly depends on the length of the metal mesh, as well as on the distance between the installed pillars. The recommended step should be equal to 2.5-3 meters. You can use poles made of metal or wood.

It is better to use metal poles. They last longer. For this purpose, pipes with a diameter of 60 to 120 millimeters are suitable. The walls of the pipe must be no less than 2 millimeters. Wooden poles can be made from bars or sanded poles. The height of the pillars should be 1-1.5 meters above the installed fence. This difference in size is buried in the ground. At the corners, the posts should be 20 centimeters longer. It is at the corners that the greatest load occurs.

At the bottom of the pit it is necessary to pour crushed stone, then sand. After that, everything should be tamped down. This is done in order to prevent subsidence of the pillars. To protect the metal from decay, its underground part is covered with mastic, which provides waterproofing. It is necessary to install the poles only in a vertical position, checking the correct installation using a plumb line or level. The pit is filled with soil. If required, concrete can be poured over it.

Do-it-yourself grid installation

There are two ways of fastening the mesh: sectional and tension. The second is more popular than the first. Strengthening the grid starts from a pillar located at the corner. TO wooden pole the edge of the metal mesh is attached with nails.

Special hooks must be made on metal poles so that the net can be fixed on them. It will be more reliable if a wire is passed through it vertically, the thickness of which is 5-6 millimeters. Next, it must be attached to the pole using electric welding.

After strengthening the grid to the first pillar, you need to move on to the next one. And so to the end of the fence. The mesh must be constantly stretched. Otherwise, it may sag. In the upper and lower parts of the grid, it is necessary to skip and fix the wire at a distance of 10-15 centimeters from the edge. Instead of wire, you can use a metal cable. When the mesh roll ends, it must be connected to another roll with wire at the ends.

Installing sectional fence

Installing a sectional fence is much more complicated than installing a conventional fence. But the sectional fence has more strength and more beautiful
view. Sections are made from corners, the size of which is 1.5 by 2.5 centimeters. In the frame that is formed, the mesh is fixed to the corner with wire. From the opposite end, the same operation is performed.
Strips are welded to the upper and lower parts of the metal poles at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the edge, to which the structure is attached. The length of these strips should be no more than 30 centimeters, a width of 5 centimeters, and a thickness should not be less than 5 millimeters.

It is desirable to paint the non-galvanized mesh before use. If this is not done, then it will last less than 3 years. Poles made of metal also require painting, but this must be done after welding is completed. top pillars are closed with plugs. This procedure protects the pipe from moisture, which can destroy the pole.

Chain-link mesh is enough cheap material. Due to this, it is often used for fencing land. In addition to the cost, the chain-link mesh is quite easy to install. Installation of such a fence can be done by everyone. A fence made from this material sunlight. This fence has good ventilation. Its safety is not lower than the safety of a fence made of wood or metal. Thanks to all this, the chain-link mesh is very popular.

When designing a dacha fence or country house many property owners choose a chain-link fence. There are logical reasons for this. This structure, which is based on a light wire mesh, is ideal for fencing a site, garden or vegetable garden.

1

Installing a mesh fence allows you to mark the boundaries of your site immediately after its purchase. In order to build a chain-link fence, there is no need to involve heavy construction equipment and hired workers. It is quite possible to install a fence of this type with your own hands.

In most cases, garden fences are made from this material. The dacha is a place that is rarely visited. Based on this, the installation of a capital-type fence is unprofitable, since its price will far exceed the cost of the property that is in the house.

Chain link fence

The chain-link fence has such undoubted advantages:

  1. Affordable price. The cost of components for the fence is quite small. This allows you to install a fence of great length without much expense.
  2. Ease of installation. You can install a fence of this type in an open field, without electricity and sophisticated equipment. Enough ordinary household tools.
  3. Installation speed. Unlike the construction of capital fences, the installation of a chain-link fence is carried out within a few days.
  4. The fence freely transmits sunlight. This allows you to plant plants in close proximity to the fence.
  5. visual lightness. The wire fence practically does not create a visual barrier to observe the surroundings. This allows you to create a feeling of unity with nature, get rid of the effect of an enclosed space.
  6. Can be combined with berry bushes or flowers. Such combinations are quite effective and practical.
  7. Ease of maintenance, repair or replacement. Damaged wire can be taken out in the trunk passenger car to a scrap metal collection point.

Advantages of this design

The durability of the fence directly depends on the material from which it is made.

2

The mesh fence is pretty simple. It consists of a grid and supports. Before you put up a mesh fence, you need to decide on the choice of it constituent parts. The main part of the fence is the mesh. It is made from steel wire. Available in rolls 10 m long and 150 cm wide.

According to the execution options, you can purchase a grid of the following types:

  1. Raw. It is a regular black wire. Has the lowest cost. The service life of such a product is no more than 10 years. You can protect the material from corrosion by painting or treating with special compounds. This procedure is quite long and costly.
  2. Galvanized. The fence made of such material is immune to corrosion. However, due to the constant friction that occurs when the fence is deformed, the zinc coating wears out. After 3-4 years, it becomes necessary to regularly treat the mesh against corrosion. Partial painting will be needed every 2-3 years.
  3. Plasticized. These types of mesh have a polymer coating on the wire. Polyvinyl chloride is used as a coating. This material is immune to temperature changes, humidity and ultraviolet radiation. PVC is resistant to mechanical stress and abrasion. country fences made of plasticized mesh can stand for decades. On sale you can find products of various colors.

Galvanized mesh in rolls

Supports are of great importance for the strength, durability and aesthetics of the fence.

The construction of a chain-link fence can be carried out using supports made of materials such as:

  • round pipes;
  • steel profile;
  • reinforced concrete pillars;
  • wooden racks.

Steel profile fence

The most acceptable and convenient option is the use of a steel profile of square or rectangular section. This configuration is better suited for wire attachment.

Manufacturers produce ready-to-use supports with welded strips and hooks.

This slightly increases their cost, but significantly reduces the time to build a fence. So let's build a fence.

3

Before you make a wire mesh fence, you need to decide on the method of fixing the supports.

There are two ways:

  1. Concreting. It is applied in places with normal and weak soil. This method is quite lengthy, but gives a guarantee of the strength of the fastening of the supports.
  2. Clogging. It is used where the soil is rocky or has a high density. As a rule, it serves for the quick installation of temporary fences.

Since the fence around the cottage should stand for a long time, the choice is made towards concreting.

Pole concreting

To work, you will need tools and materials such as:

  • manual, electric or motor drill;
  • building level;
  • roulette;
  • Bulgarian;
  • welding machine;
  • wire rod or steel corner;
  • paint brush;
  • bayonet shovel;
  • shovel;
  • steel supports;
  • Rabitz;
  • dye;
  • ingredients for concrete mortar (cement, sand, gravel);
  • tracing cord.

A wire rod or a corner is purchased depending on what kind of fence is planned, tension or sectional. Sectional is much stronger. Tension fence is cheaper and faster to install.

Sectional view of the fence

After all the property is prepared, work can begin.

The production of the fence begins with tracing the place where it will be installed. For this, a cord and stakes are used. Considering that one roll has a length of 10 m, the distance between the posts is taken to be 2 m or 2.5 m. You should not make more distance, as the wire rod will sag.

Thus, to find out how much wire mesh is needed, you need to divide the total length of the route by 10. You can get the required number of supports by dividing the length of the route by 2 or 2.5. In places where there will be holes, marks are made. After the markup, practical work begins.

4

Since the supports will be loaded by the weight of the wire mesh and the wind, they must be firmly anchored into the ground. Depending on its density, the depth of the pits varies from 60 cm to 120 cm. The pits can be dug with a shovel or a drill. Since this event is quite time-consuming, it is advisable to rent or buy garden drill. Such an acquisition would be useful, since there is always a need to make pits in the private sector. Pits should be made with a diameter 2-3 times larger than the diameter of the supports.

Drilling holes for supports

After the holes for the pillars are made, the following manipulations are carried out:

  • the poles are being prepared for installation (they are cleaned of rust, primed and painted);
  • the bottom of the pits is well rammed and covered with a layer of sand;
  • sand is abundantly wetted with water;
  • the supports are lowered into the pits, leveled and rigidly fixed with spacers made of broken brick or stone;
  • corner supports are reinforced with braces;
  • the level of installed pillars is checked in height and their adjustment;
  • concrete mortar is poured into the holes;
  • after pouring, air is removed from the solution with a steel bar.

Pole installation

On supports from steel pipes or rectangular profile, it is necessary to install end caps. This will protect the supports from corrosion and the accumulation of debris in them. The best option are PVC inner plugs. In this way, it is possible not only to isolate the pipes from the inside, but also to decorate them. The installed supports must stand still for at least 3 days in order for the concrete to gain the necessary strength.

5

After the concrete in the pits has hardened, the wire mesh is installed. Given the specifics of this process, it is better to involve an assistant.

Wire mesh installation

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Tensioners are installed on the corner supports. Purchase 6 devices for each pole.
  2. The wire is measured right size. As a rule, 3 lines of wire are used. This avoids sagging of the mesh in the center.
  3. The carrier wire is inserted into the tensioners and stretched as much as possible.
  4. The wire rod is fixed on the supporting pillars. This is done with wire, hooks or a plastic tie.
  5. The mesh roll unfolds.
  6. Spirals unwind from above and below. The mesh is attached to the wire.
  7. Steel pins are inserted into the side edges of the mesh.
  8. The pins are rigidly attached to the support.
  9. The mesh spirals are attached to the middle guide wire.

After that, you can think about how to decorate finished structure. The decor can be varied. You can hang various crafts and light souvenirs in the form of plates on the fence.

Chain link fence decoration

Sectional fences are built somewhat differently. The frames are made first. They are made from a steel corner, pipes or timber. Then the mesh is fixed in the frame. This is done using reinforcing pins, steel staples or welding. The next step is to attach the sections to the planks on the supports. It is advisable to leave a small gap between the frame and the ground. This will protect the structure from dampness and accumulation of debris. In conclusion, the entire structure is painted.

Chain link fencing is a practical and affordable way to mark your land holdings. By being creative, you can quickly and inexpensively make a beautiful and practical fence that will last for many years.

GOSTs normalize a lot, including how it is possible or impossible to delimit areas. So, for example, the regulations prescribe to delimit neighboring areas with transparent fences. Since the boundary is usually long, it is desirable that the fence be inexpensive. Actually, the choice is small - a chain-link fence or. Wattle, although cheap, is extremely short-lived, so that only a mesh fence remains. In general, it is correct to say “chain-link fence”, but for the ear it is more common to incline the name.

Popular and inexpensive - chain-link fence

Whatever this fence is called, it has a solid number of positive aspects. The first and important plus is cheapness. This applies to both the filling itself - the grid, and the rest of the structure. To stretch the grid, the foundation is not required. It is enough to drill holes for about a meter, insert a pole and, having fallen asleep rubble, compact it well. Everything, no concrete work. On most soils, this installation method for this filling works for "five".

Structures and installation methods

The fact is that the chain-link fence is light. Moreover, it is light both in terms of its own weight and in terms of perceived wind loads. No matter how strong the winds blow, the pressure transmitted by the net to the poles remains negligible. Due to the low weight, such a technology for installing pillars can be used: in a hole, under filling with sand or gravel, without concrete. Moreover, such a fence stands without problems even on heaving clay soils with a high level of groundwater, and even with a large freezing depth.

Without guides

Here's how it works. We are talking about the simplest design: just pillars, between which a grid is stretched. As you can see, the pillars are buried to a depth of less than a meter. What happens to such a fence on soils that normally drain water? All the water near the column goes down through the sand or gravel to the bottom of the hole. There it leaves in a natural way - it seeps into the underlying layers. Even if frost hits and the sand or gravel around the post freezes, the moisture content is not enough to have at least some significant effect on the post.

On clays and loams, you can use the same principle, only it is necessary to fill it with gravel. And be sure to pour 10-15 centimeters of gravel at the bottom of the hole, and only then install a pole. What happens in this case. Water still accumulates at the bottom, but it leaves very slowly. It may well happen that by the time of freezing, the rubble will still be wet, or even be in the water.

What will happen then? It will freeze and become hard. But since the soil also freezes, it puts pressure on the rubble. The forces are considerable, and the ice breaks, the rubble becomes mobile and compensates for most of the pressure created by the ground. As a result, if there are movements of the pillars, then they are quite small - from a few millimeters to several centimeters. Since the design is not rigid, the mesh will easily transfer it without any harm. After everything thaws, the poles will lower into place. But such a scenario is only if they are placed perfectly vertically. Otherwise, the poles may tilt and you will have to fix everything.

With guides (legs)

Sometimes, in order for the fence to be more solid and keep its shape better, two longitudinal guides are attached to the posts. They can be from a pipe, or they can be from a bar. Wood, as a plastic material, will tolerate soil movements remarkably, but a welded pipe will create additional difficulties.

The degree of rigidity of such a fence is higher, and when heaving, if the posts are squeezed out, it is quite possible that in some places the pipes may be torn off. To prevent this situation, you will have to dig below the freezing depth in your area. Everything else remains in effect: the hole is 15-20 cm deeper than required, there is rubble at the bottom, then a pipe is inserted, covered with well-packed rubble.

Sectional

There is another design of a chain-link fence. Frames are welded from the corner, on which the mesh is then stretched. Finished sections are welded to exposed poles.

As you can see from the description, the design is also quite rigid. This means that on heaving soils (clay, loam) it is necessary to bury the pillars 20-30 cm below the freezing depth of the soil, but it is also desirable to do without concreting. If you fill crushed stone with concrete, the probability that the pillar will “squeeze out” increases many times over.

Types of chain-link mesh for a fence

Even such a seemingly simple material as a chain-link mesh can be different. Moreover, the difference is solid both in price and in service life.


Plastic or polymer mesh - 100% polymer

Besides different material, the chain-link has a different cell size. It varies from 25 mm to 70 mm. The larger the cell, the cheaper the mesh, but the lower the bearing capacity it has. If you put a chain-link fence on the border with a neighbor, they take mainly the middle link - from 40 mm to 60 mm.

What to look for when choosing a grid

Carefully inspect each roll. Its edges should not be curved. The upper and lower cells should be with curved "tails". Moreover, it is desirable that the length of the folded part be more than half the length of the cell. This mesh is easier to pull.

Edges should be straight and folded

Pay attention to the thickness of the wire, how even the cells are, how ugly they lie. All deformations are a sign of low quality.

If the mesh netting is in polymer coating Check the manufacturer's warranty period. The cheapest ones, not only do the wire often bend, they also use ordinary plastic, which, under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, becomes brittle after a couple of seasons and begins to crumble. A normal coating can last up to ten years or more. Therefore, in this case, it is not worth chasing cheapness.

Which poles to use

There are several options:


Most convenient option of all those mentioned, it is profile pipe, and better - a rectangular section. It is easy to attach the mesh to it, and you can weld hooks or wire if necessary. If possible, put them on. The optimal section for the post is 25 * 40 mm or so. You should not take a larger section - the fence is light.

The order of installation of pillars

First, put up the pillars at the corners of the site. If only one side needs to be fenced, one pole is placed at the beginning, the second at the end. Their verticality in all planes is strictly checked, the height is adjusted. At the very top and 10 cm above ground level, two cords are pulled. The rest of the pillars are placed on them. The height is aligned along the upper lace, the lower one serves to facilitate orientation: by attaching a plumb line to a point on the upper thread, you can find the place where the hole will be drilled.

The installation step of the pillars is 2-3 meters. Less is too expensive, more is pointless, the mesh will sag. When installing mesh without a guide wire, it makes sense to put posts every 2 or 2.5 meters. This makes it easier to stretch the mesh without sagging. For other models - with wire, slides (guides) or sections - the step can be 3 m.

If the grid is stretched between the posts, the extreme ones have a considerable load. so that they are not "led", they put jibs. They are exposed, dug in, welded to the installed pole.

Netting net installation

It only seems at first that it is easy to put up a chain-link fence. As soon as you start to think about how to fix the net on a pole, how to stretch it, everything is not so obvious and simple ... First, about general rules. The mesh is attached to one of the corner posts. Fasten in at least four places. In principle, you can simply fasten it with wire, passing it into the cell.

The method is simple, but not the most reliable. If the fence is in the country, during the absence of the owners, the grid can be easily removed and carried away.

You can at least fix it more securely on the first and last pillar. To do this, take a steel bar with a thickness of at least 4 mm, thread it through the cells, weld it to the pole, grabbing every 40-50 cm (in the photo on the left).

Another way: weld three or four rods with a diameter of 6 mm to each post. A mesh is put on them, they are bent.

If you are still paranoid about the fact that I will remove the grid, you can drill two in the column through holes, insert a bar bent in the form of a horseshoe - U, capturing the mesh with the "back". On the side where the ends come out, twist them and rivet them, or weld them.

Stretch

There is another problem: how to stretch the grid. If the design is simple - without slegs (transverse guides that are fixed between the posts), you can simply stretch the grid from one post to another. Just note that it is necessary to fasten sequentially to each pole. Fastening first through one, and then intermediate ones is a bad idea: there will definitely be uneven tension and sagging.

How to stretch the chain-link mesh so that there is no sagging? Insert the rod, grab it and pull with all your weight. The stretch will be quite significant. It is necessary to work with an assistant: one pulls and holds, the second fastens.

with wire

This type of fence is good because it is put up quickly. But the top edge may sag. If someone climbs through it, the top will definitely jam. It's unlikely to straighten it out. So that the top does not sag and “wrinkle”, a wire is pulled through the first row, it can be steel, or it can be in a plastic sheath so that it does not rust.

If wire is used, the technology can be simple: make a loop at the end, throw it over the last post. They unwind the wire trying to pull it, after two or three pillars make another loop, wrapping the wire around the pillar. So until the end of the flight. With the use of muscle strength, it will not be possible to pull enough, and the wire will inevitably sag. This is easy to fix. Take a thick metal rod, and use it to twist, pulling the wire. Is one twist not enough? A little further you do another one. So you tighten all the "spans". After that, you can begin to “pull” the grid, tying it to a stretched wire.

If you weld “ears” at the top of the column - a metal bar with holes, the wire can be attached to them. Pulling a piece of 2-3 meters is easier, but the work is slower.

You can also use special wire tensioners. Then, having fixed the wire on one pole, on the second it is passed into such a device as in the photo. It is fastened in a clamp, and then with the help of a key, the excess is wound onto the drum.

You can use a cable and lanyards - hooks with tie-clamps (in the rigging store). On one side, a cable is twisted around the pole, secured with a clamp. On the other hand, a lanyard is placed. Its middle part is threaded, so you can pull the cable.

A lanyard with a cable is another option.

Since the cable is more flexible, it can be passed through the links. Each one will be too long, after two or three cells - it's normal. One more thing: take a cable with a polymer sheath: it will not rust.

With welded wire

A steel bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm is threaded into the upper cell, or slightly lower. It is cut into pieces equal to the distance from one pillar to another. The threaded rod is welded to the pole.

Pay attention to the top of this chain-link. In this photo, you can clearly see that it has already begun to bloom. This is exactly the reason why it is necessary to take a mesh with curved ends. It just doesn’t unravel, and even without a wire or a bar, it holds the edge well.

With slugs (guides)

In even more rigid structures, after the pillars are installed, slugs are welded to them. These are cross pipes or wooden planks attached between posts. There may be one guide, or there may be two or three.

As you can see in the photo, in this case, you can also fasten the mesh with a wire. Obviously, all methods described above can be used. The only difference is that the mesh is attached not only vertically, but also horizontally. The photo below shows another way - with plates bolted, the ends riveted. This method can also be used when attaching to poles.

Chain link fence decoration

No matter how pleased you are with the fence at first, after a while there is a desire to either decorate it, or make it less transparent in order to close from prying eyes.

The first way - the most obvious - is to plant plants. If the neighbors do not mind, bindweeds or any other annual or perennial plants can be used.

The most natural way is to plant plants

If you just want to decorate your fence, you can do "embroidery". The cells are the same size, so you can embroider like on a canvas. There are two materials for embroidery: wire and colored twine.

Colored twine is good because you can "embroider" color pictures. Any that seem appropriate to you.

Not very aesthetic, but quite effective way- pull on a camouflage or shading net. These methods are good because they require a minimum of effort: they pulled it, grabbed it in a couple of places.

The shading mesh is almost opaque and the wind load will hardly change

The same effect is achieved if twigs or reeds are woven into the cells. The disadvantage of this option is the high labor intensity. It will take a lot of time.

Ready-made reed mats can reduce manufacturing costs. They are sold in rolls. All you need to do is unroll and fasten. But the cost is much higher than the previous option.

Another way is to use artificial needles sold in rolls. It is used in the manufacture of baskets and wreaths, but it can also be adapted to the fence.

Green wall - chain-link mesh decorated with artificial needles

Not so long ago, another way of decorating and, at the same time, reducing the visibility of a fence from a chain-link mesh appeared - a photo grid. This is a pattern printed on a polymer mesh. Sold in rolls (for tension fence) or fragments (for sectional). It is fastened with the help of eyelets and wire or clamps built into the surface. You can see an example of the effect in the photo below.

From the chain-link mesh and decorate the fence, and close the area from prying eyes

A chain-link fence is a good option for suburban area. Why? Because the current requirements for the fencing of the dacha provide for the impossibility of installation between neighboring areas. This is due to poor lighting of plants located along the fence. The Rabitz mesh is a good way out of the current situation, since it transmits enough light, and the movement of air masses is not limited. And yet, you can install such a fence yourself. This type of fence is used not only in country conditions, but also for technical zones, reservoirs, sports grounds. You can install a mesh fence with your own hands, without seeking help from professionals.

Chain-link fence options: on a metal frame, on wooden frame; sectional, continuous tension.

What is the chain link grid? This is a wire made of steel (low carbon) woven into a fabric. For its manufacture, a special machine is used that twists the spirals with each other and rolls the mesh into rolls.

The main advantage of the chain-link mesh is the cost. It is an order of magnitude lower than for other materials suitable for fencing.

To equip a mesh fence, in addition to itself, you will need poles, a cable or wire (4-6 mm). It itself is distinguished by ease of installation and the ability to do it yourself.

Of the tools you may need:

  • plumb;
  • shovel;
  • wheelbarrow;
  • hammer;
  • pliers;
  • roulette.

What is the chain-link mesh?

Such a building material as a mesh is produced in three main types:

  1. The first of them is a mesh made of non-galvanized black wire. This option is short-lived and easily rusted. Usually this type is used in order to make a temporary fence. If you decide to make a fence from just such a mesh, then get ready for the fact that every 3-4 years you will have to renew the paint layer on it.
  2. The second option is galvanized mesh. It is resistant to corrosion. And its price category is not much different from the above type. This is the most popular type of chain-link mesh.
  3. Another type is the plasticized mesh Netting. It is made of metal wire coated with a layer of polymeric substance. This layer is designed to perform a protective function. Her appearance different in a variety of colors, another advantage is resistance to a humid environment.

But not only the material of manufacture differs different kinds grids. Their cell shape and size can also be different. The size range varies from 25 to 60 millimeters. The shape of the cell can be rectangular or diamond-shaped.

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Mesh fence device

There are two main ways in which you can build a chain-link fence. Which installation you prefer is up to you.

The first involves the tension of the mesh between the posts, the second is the manufacture of sections from the corner in which the mesh is fastened. The first option is very simple, and its installation is cheaper. Its disadvantages include not quite aesthetic appearance and lack of practicality.

The second method implies a more durable and aesthetic. But you will also have to spend more money on this option, since the purchase of a metal corner necessary for the manufacture of sections is not a cheap pleasure. Pillars are needed in both cases.

Since we are talking about pillars, let's see what material they can be made of:

  1. For example, wood is a material that is quite light and easy to access. The only downside is the short lifespan. Mandatory conditions for this are their painting and treatment of the underground part with a waterproofing compound (mastic).
  2. Another option for poles is metal. This is a more durable and reliable material. For them, pipes of both round and square section, with a diameter of at least 60 mm.

To date, ready-made poles for a chain-link fence are on sale.

They are covered with a layer of paint and equipped with special hooks. However, the cost of such poles is a bit more expensive. The fence device with their use will be easier and faster.

Another option is asbestos-cement or concrete pillars. But such poles are not very practical in terms of attaching a grid to them, since fastening can only be done with a clamp or cable, which takes a lot of time and causes a lot of inconvenience.

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