Table: material, manufacturing technology, schemes, designs - simple and complex. We make a table from boards with our own hands: instructions for work Assemble a wooden table with our own hands

A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is fairly straightforward and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for an overly small kitchen. Buying custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up tools and design your own “work” on your own, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or gazebo of a suburban area. If you have on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use finished project and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for the job

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

1. Planer, which level the wood and drive the parts to the desired size.
2. Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
3. Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
4. Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
5. Screwdriver Set.
6. Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
7. Sandpaper for grinding.

Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:

• An electric jigsaw will do all the work for which the various saws mentioned above were previously used.

Jigsaw rating

• The grinder will help to make the surfaces even and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious manual sanding procedure.

• Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.

• will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes twisting each screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

• The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

So that the finished furniture does not turn out "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

Make a similar country table- for everyone

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:

1. Timber, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
2. Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
3. Joiner's glue.
4. Board size:

• 1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
• 850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame details);
• 1580×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
• 950×100×25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, it is carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the faded raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the details for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.

Frame or "box" of the table

• The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards 1680 × 100 × 25 mm in size and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the location of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection will be made by tie-in.

The connection of elements can be carried out in different ways:

Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners

- using a steel corner - this is the simplest and most reliable way;

- the tie-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of tongue and groove connection

- “groove-thorn”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for beginners with no experience;

- dowel connection is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.

• All connections, as a rule, are carried out using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
• The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building corner and measure and compare the length of the diagonals.
• If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

• When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, cladding boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their fastening also needs to be marked, since along their edges there should be a distance for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also planted on glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be sunk into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

• The next step is the transverse sheathing of the tabletop with boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The worktop protrusion above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

• Further, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. To prevent cracking of boards installation work through holes must be drilled.

• After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the table top.

The next step is to install the legs.

• The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
• The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. With this home-made putty, fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire countertop, and especially the places covered with “corks” of glue, must be sanded well.

• After that, the table can be varnished or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in summerhouse, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.

If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

1. Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
2. The presence of a double-sided capacious bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
3. The table is equipped with a worktop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting at it, can do homework.
4. In addition, on the tabletop there is a place for a laptop or books necessary for studying.
5. If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if a soft cloth is laid on its surface.

Given all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Learn how and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article of our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a comfortable piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Scheme of the table with the assembly part numbers affixed (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

part number on the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Production material, thickness, mm
1	Folding table top.	1	600×600
2	Fixed table top.	1	600×475	Plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530×30
4		2	120×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
6	Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop.	2	530×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
7	Groove element for the movement of the legs on the table top.	2	120×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
8	The lower end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table.	2	720x520	MDF 19 mm
10	The horizontal details of the pedestal, forming shelves.	3	520×312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the pedestal.	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the pedestal.	1	312×184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the pedestal.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477×346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
16	The front panel of a drawer of a curbstone.	1	346×209	MDF 19 mm
17	The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front).	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341×250	MDF 19 mm
19	Back panel of the drawer.	1	272×120	MDF 19 mm
20	Bottom panel of the drawer.	1	341×272	MDF 19 mm
	Drawer handles and drawer doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg piece.	1	80×80×18	Plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture hinges for doors.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the pedestal.	2	20×300×5	Plywood 5 mm

The drawings show a drawing of the table, which can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)
Separate nodes of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electric tools will be required that are able to bring the workpieces to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

It is worth starting the manufacture of the table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact pedestal.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or a circular saw, is to cut blanks for the countertop, 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm in size.
	Further, marking is carried out on a larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or you can make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or a circular saw with the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Further, a milling cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will dock with the second part of the countertop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the countertop. Furniture hinges may have different shape, so they should be laid in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. In the finished holes, the loops are fixed with self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the table top with hinges, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, markings are made to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a milling cutter: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm - 1 pc., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the rails, are cut off at the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the legs along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the countertop, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest rails, having a size of 530 × 20 mm, are screwed with self-tapping screws, then the part 122 × 20 mm blocks the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places for screwing in the screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the tabletop. All elements must be processed to smoothness and perfectly evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. In extreme cases, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, with the help of a dowel and glue, a guide square plate made of plywood, measuring 80 × 80 × 18 mm, is fixed exactly in the center.
	Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with a water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured plywood pattern. After that, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of cabinets.
	The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. Holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case, the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before drilling, it is necessary to carefully mark out. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door walls are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a comfortable position in height, a point is marked through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protect the material from damage. negative impact specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the nightstand. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on even bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws after assembly will have to be masked with various compositions. The build process goes like this: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels and its location are marked with a pencil using a building corner. -Immediately, the location of fasteners is simultaneously outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, places for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf-holder brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable jumper shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried out well. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and compressed with clamps for drying.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the drawer can also be done using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for mounting fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are smeared with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	Between themselves, the sidewalls are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be drowned in wood, and the holes are sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sidewalls from the inside with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended that, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is used to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together by four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries in the center facade panel a hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the cabinet and countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be properly positioned. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm.
	Having fixed the countertop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws. Then a drawer is inserted, and shelves are installed on the shelf holders.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or there is simply a great desire to prove oneself in carpentry, then you should not postpone self-production. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting option round table, which may well serve both at home and on the site.

Video: round table assembly example

And another idea kitchen table, independently realize which, incorrect, will also be within the power of a skilled owner:

Video: lightweight collapsible kitchen table

There is none home master who would not want to assemble a wooden table with their own hands, and this desire does not depend on gender and age. It is important to observe many aspects in order for the result of the work to be of really high quality.

Figure 1. Scheme of a wooden table with legs in the form of crosses.

In the beginning there was a tree

Initially, the type of table is selected, and then the material with which the work will be carried out. Tables are different (Fig. 1,2 and 3), and in each case different materials are used.

Chipboard among all the cheapest and easiest to work, therefore enjoys the highest popularity. The thickness usually borders 1.5-3 cm, the color scheme is limited only by fantasy, and the density depends on preferences. But chipboard also has its drawbacks: low strength characteristics, all colors of artificial origin (even if desired, you cannot style it as original wood), as well as harmful chemical emissions from non-laminated places.

The array, in turn, is the least popular because of the high cost. In this case, the work is quick and easy, because. the cut just needs to be shaped to get a countertop, after which it can be mounted, and shapes can be from simple to the most intricate.

Figure 2. Diagram of a coffee table.

Edged board and timber are the main elements that are present in most cases as a supporting structure, but sometimes they are used as the main material, which makes the work much more difficult, but the result is much more interesting.

It is a table made of boards and timber that will be considered as an example, because. Starting with the complex, you can easily learn to do the simple.

Working activity

Tools and materials:

• jigsaw;
• grinder;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• timber;
• bar;
• edged board;
• rail;
• steel corners;
• furniture plugs;
• stain and varnish;
• the brush is flat.

Initially, you need to decide on the dimensions of the future table, and only after that proceed with sawing. Let the table have the standard 110 cm height, 90 cm width and 150 cm length, although any of the given data can be changed depending on desire. And after an accurate definition, you can start cutting:

• timber 75 * 75 mm - 4 pcs. 105 cm;
• bar 45 * 80 mm - 2 pcs. 75 cm and 2 pcs. 135 cm;
• edged board 50 * 150 mm - 6 pcs. 135 cm and 1 pc. 90 cm;
• wooden lath 10 * 40 mm - 5 pcs. 145 and 2 pcs. 85 cm.

After the cut is completed, you need to carefully grind each work item with a grinder or sandpaper, and collect all the remaining dust with a barely damp sponge. From above, the wood is covered with an antiseptic solution from moisture and insects, and only after complete drying can work be continued.

Figure 3. Scheme of the assembly of the round table.

To begin with, a supporting structure is formed from bars and bars. To connect them, the bars will have to be rounded at the ends by 2.5 cm, and at the very top of the bar, make round holes with the corresponding diameter to a depth of 2.5 cm. a few drops).

The tabletop is made much more difficult, because. first you need to cut a 90 cm board in half lengthwise exactly. Between the resulting 2 cuts, all the rest are laid in turn. The result is a formed tabletop, but not yet linked.

6 wide holes are made in the front and back boards to a depth of 2.5-3 cm, and all holes should be located exactly in the center of those boards that are on the other side. After that, full-fledged holes are made with a thin drill to the depth of the screw, and if this is not done, then with a high probability it will be possible to split the wood.

Galvanized screws are used for coupling, because they are not subject to rust, and for wood this is very important. A rail is screwed from below to all joints, and the fixation is carried out in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 20 cm for the longitudinal ones, and in pairs on each board for the transverse ones. Thanks to this tabletop, nothing is scary anymore.

At the very end, it remains only to combine the legs and the tabletop into 1 design, for which dowels and steel furniture corners are used. At the junction on the dowels, you will again have to use glue, after which for 5-6 hours press down the table with a load of 20-30 kg, so that everything is fixed in this position. The corners, in turn, will play the role of a control fixation.

At the very end, caps of the color of interest are put on the heads of all visible screws.

Completion and additional aspects

After you managed to assemble the table with your own hands, it must be completely varnished and stained. What is especially important in this case is the ability to give the appearance of any breed. The varnish dries for 30-36 hours, so after coating, you need to leave the finished work for this time. Often misleading is the fact that after 4-5 hours there is no smell, and the fingers completely stop sticking, but at the same time, harmful chemical compounds still continue to be released into the environment.

For making holes large diameter special drill bits and drill bits are used, and they allow not only to form an internal contour, but also to cut out an external one.

Before you make a wooden table, you need to set aside 1-2 free days for the whole process, because. interruption would be very inopportune. Sometimes errors and shortcomings occur during work, but this is within the normal range, so you need to have a stock of all materials of 10-15%.

In total, with a stuffed hand, the table is made in 1 day, after which it dries, and you can start using it.

In the conditions of modern small-sized apartments, it is quite difficult to give free rein to imagination and purchase pieces of furniture that would suit everything. Among other things, it is quite difficult to find such interior elements that would be attractive not only in design, but also in price. These two problems can be solved by the method of self-production wooden furniture. It could be, for example, a table. You can complete it by preparing everything necessary materials and tools. You can use this piece of furniture both in the kitchen and in the living room.

Preparatory work

In order to make a wooden table with your own hands, you will need to prepare some materials. You will need a furniture shield, the thickness of which is 19 millimeters. This material is highly durable and looks very attractive. Shields on preparatory stage it will be necessary to mark, and then cut blanks out of them. It is important to stock up on the necessary fasteners for assembly. Thus, it will be necessary to prepare 6 boards that will make up the lower support. Their size is 19 x 100 x 965 millimeters. There will be 4 legs, their dimensions are 19 x 215 x 680 mm. The molding of the legs will also come in handy in the same amount, however, the dimensions of these elements should be equal to 1938 x 470 mm. The tabletop supports will be blanks with dimensions of 19 x 125 x 610 mm. A wooden table for a gazebo with your own hands can be made according to the same dimensions. The master must prepare two dowels for legs with dimensions of 10 x 32 mm. Two jumpers with dimensions of 19 x 140 x 1100 mm should also be distinguished.

Additional elements

You will need a steel coupler in the amount of two pieces, its size should be equal to 150 mm. The table top will be limited to the following dimensions - 19 x 1020 x 1900 mm. The worktop plank must be cut in two pieces and have dimensions of 19 x 19 x 1750 mm. Screws, washers, ties, and dowels will be used as fasteners.

Instrument preparation

It will be impossible to make a wooden table with your own hands if you do not stock up electric jigsaw, circular saw, hacksaw, drill with drills, planer, milling machine, file, clamps, brush. To fasten the parts, you will need carpentry glue; you can process the wood with sandpaper. The table will look good if it is treated with polyurethane varnish, which can be glossy or matte.

Manufacturing technology

If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, then you need to know that each support structure has 3 blanks glued together. An opening should be formed in the central part. Immediately you need to cut out 6 elements for two supports. Next, the master must make straight cuts using a circular saw for this. The corners must be rounded. In two blanks, it is necessary to cut the central part so that the groove falls on the central part of the support. The width of the groove should be slightly less than the thickness of the spike in the leg. This will prevent loosening of the structure during swelling and drying.

The next step is to glue the supports. After applying glue to the surface of the parts, they must be folded so that the upper edges are flush. Reliability of fastening will provide clamps. After the supports are dried, it is necessary to get rid of excess glue. After the clamps are removed, you need to plan the lower and upper edges.

Work on the legs

When a wooden table is made with your own hands, you need to prepare four legs. After the vertical edges, it is necessary to plan and round them with a milling machine. At the ends of long blanks, it is necessary to mark and then cut the spikes, placing them from above and below. This can be done with a circular saw, which must be equipped with a combination disc. After the moldings are cut out and brought to the required dimensions, all 4 ribs can be rounded. On the reverse surface of the moldings, it is necessary to make grooves for glue.

Work on supports

If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, a design photo will help you decide what features this piece of furniture will have.

The next step will be cutting blanks for supports. For gluing, a 10 mm groove should be selected in each blank. It is preferable to perform these manipulations immediately. In order to simplify the task, it is necessary to prepare a cardboard template by marking the location of the grooves on it. Further, pairwise gluing can be carried out so that the cut is located in the central part. Everything must be tightened with clamps. Once the glue has dried, you need to clean the saw cuts with an emery cloth.

Leg mounting

If a wooden table is made with your own hands, the photos must first be reviewed by you. It is important to initially fit all connections without using glue. From the wide edges of the connection should be tight. On the side, it is necessary to provide a gap of 1.5 millimeters to compensate for changes in the size of the wood. When edging, these elements will be decorated.

The walls and spikes must be treated with glue, after which you can proceed to pair the legs with vertical supports. Without waiting for the glue to dry, it is necessary to make holes and strengthen the pairing with dowels. If you decide that you will make a wooden table with your own hands, it is recommended to prepare the drawings at the initial stage. For the legs, moldings of the required length should be cut. They need to be glued and pulled together with clamps. The glue is applied, and then left until dry.

If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, the drawings can be borrowed from the article. The jumper should be installed high, so that those sitting at the table do not touch it with their feet. It is necessary to glue using two strips, which are preliminarily edged with a molding.

After the glue dries, you need to remove the clamps, and then chamfer. Holes must be made on the short sides for installing fasteners. The tabletop can be made independently, its dimensions may differ from those presented above. At the ends, you need to select the spikes using a jigsaw.

Next, the saw cuts are cleaned with a file. Along the long edges of the workpiece, it is necessary to install strips that are attracted by clamps and dried. Using an edge cutter, you need to align the edges of the moldings. They should be fixed to the planks, and then dry and clean the joints with a grinder.

When a wooden table is made for a summer cottage with your own hands, the drawings will make it possible to understand how the table top and legs are connected. To do this, use U-shaped brackets. On the long sides of the base, quarters should be chosen to fix the sidewalls. The ends of the last elements must be rounded and cleaned. After that, everything is glued and compressed with clamps, and then left until the moment of drying.

Final works

Before you make a wooden table with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work. At the next stage, with a deviation from the edges of the base by 100 millimeters, it is necessary to make holes, the diameter of which should be equal to 20 millimeters. A through groove should be placed between them. Holes are required so that the base does not split. If you will be making a wooden table for giving with your own hands, the drawings should help in carrying out the work.

Now the master can assemble the table, for this it is necessary to fix the jumper to the legs. Using a pencil, you need to mark the position of the legs so that they are perpendicular to the ends of the lid. Brackets should be installed according to the markup. In the countertop, you need to make 10 holes for installing screws. Next, you can strengthen the brackets. A washer must be placed under each screw, this will compensate for shrinkage, this is the only way to make a folding wooden table with your own hands.

You can change the technology and dimensions of the table at your own discretion. However, it must be remembered that the design should be as strong and reliable as possible. It is important to protect wooden elements from the negative effects of the external environment, especially for those pieces of furniture that are supposed to be used in the kitchen or outdoors.

Whatever the size of the kitchen, be it a small cell in a small family or a huge spacious kitchen in country house, in any case, a table is an obligatory piece of furniture in it. Despite the abundance modern materials and the possibility of choosing designer tables made of metal, glass, plastic and stone, wooden products continue to be invariably popular. A wooden kitchen table creates an atmosphere of comfort and harmony in the house, somehow you don’t even want to quarrel behind it, the mood becomes calm and balanced. You can buy such a table in any furniture store, the range of finished products is large and varied. But also a wooden table can be ordered in a carpentry workshop according to an individual sketch. Of course, both of these options will cost a pretty penny, so many people prefer to make a wooden kitchen table with their own hands. Thus, you can save up to 70% of the cost of a finished similar product in the store. True, to perform carpentry work, you will need special tools and carpenter skills, but this depends on the material chosen and the complexity of the table design.

Wooden dining table - optimal dimensions

The size of the table for the kitchen directly depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe kitchen and the place where the table is planned to be installed. It is believed that a person feels comfortable if his personal zone is at least 70 cm, i.e. there is no one around him within a radius of 35 cm. Based on this, a square table 90x90 or 100x100 cm will be quite enough for a family of 4 people, if the room allows you to move the table away from the wall so that everyone sits on their own side. If the dimensions of the kitchen do not allow you to move the table, then you can install a rectangular table 120x75 or 120x80 cm. In this case, two people will sit at the long side of the table, and two people from the short sides.

In a large room spacious kitchen or in the dining room - you can safely put a large wooden dining table, the length of the tabletop of such a table is 160 cm. Usually the dimensions of large tables are 160x90 cm or 180x90 cm. There is enough space along the long side of the table to freely accommodate two people, and two people behind the ends will feel just kings. And that's on normal days. If an event is planned with many guests, then 10-15 people can safely fit at such a table.

But how to accommodate guests to residents of apartments with small kitchens? In such cases, a sliding dining table and a transforming table come to the rescue. Sliding tables are equipped with additional inserts for the tabletop, the width of which is usually 40 - 50 cm. There can be from one to three such inserts, they are all located in the middle of the table or hidden under the tabletop cover in a special niche if the table is in the assembled state. unfolded length extendable table can reach 230 - 280 cm. This is enough to invite guests to a wedding. When folded, the length of such a table is from 120 to 180 cm.

The height of the dining table is usually 70 cm, but a lot depends on the height and build of the residents, sometimes kitchen tables are made 60 - 65 or 75 - 80 cm high.

Choosing the size for the dining table, be guided by the space allotted for it. After all family members sit down for him, there should be enough free space around for the hostess to move, so that she does not create inconvenience to those sitting and vice versa.

Wood for the kitchen table

The choice of material for the kitchen table is a responsible task, not only the durability of the countertop and its resistance to mechanical deformations, but also the final cost of the table as a whole depends on the right choice. Solid wood kitchen tables are considered the most durable, environmentally friendly, aesthetic and are the most expensive. To make a solid wood table yourself, you will need the skills of a carpenter and carpenter, as well as a woodworking tool and a workshop for work.

The density of wood for the kitchen table has great importance. There may be marks and scratches on the surface of softwood, although it all depends on the accuracy of the owners. And hard rocks can be difficult to handle for a beginner. Masters distinguish three categories of wood by density: soft, hard and the hardest.

Softwoods include: pine, cedar, fir, spruce, poplar, aspen, linden, alder, juniper, willow and chestnut.

Hardwoods include: oak, beech, elm, ash, larch, birch, apple and rowan.

To the hardest: white locust, yew, iron birch, dogwood.

Any wood is suitable for a dining kitchen table, even pine, which is considered the softest, but its surface must be varnished in several layers. The walnut table will be strong and heavy, and its surface is exceptionally durable, because even in the process of making openwork carving on the walnut there are no chips.

Oak wood for the kitchen table is ideal. In addition to being strong, hard and durable, it is also easy to work and varnish, does not warp, split or warp, and is resistant to decay, which is extremely important for a wet kitchen.

Larch wood is considered healing, but given that the surface of the table must be covered with protective agents, it will not have the opportunity to release therapeutic phytoncides into the atmosphere. Linden wood is suitable for the manufacture of turned elements, plastic and durable, but it is affected by pests, and therefore also requires staining.

The most common types of wood that are used to make kitchen dining tables are pine, oak, walnut and wenge. Remember that you need to buy only well-dried material, with a moisture content of not more than 10%, otherwise the tree may warp, and this is fatal for the table.

In addition to solid wood, kitchen tables are made of laminated chipboard (laminated chipboard) with a thickness of 18 to 22 mm, as well as plywood and MDF. The ends of these materials are closed with a special PVC or melamine tape. These materials can hardly be called environmentally friendly and, of course, they are inferior in strength and durability to solid wood, but the ease of processing and low price tempt many. The laminated chipboard surface does not need to be additionally coated with anything, it already has a finished look. And plywood is used only for strapping or embedded parts, so it is not visible.

To make a table from solid wood or prefer a chipboard that is easy to process depends on the preferences of the owner and his carpentry and financial capabilities. After all, a kitchen table made of chipboard will cost much less.

Types and configuration of kitchen wooden tables

After you have decided on the size of the table and the material of manufacture, you can proceed to the choice of shape and configuration. Diversity design solutions of tables is able to satisfy any requests and choose a table model that best fits into the interior of the house and complements its sophistication.

Legs for kitchen wooden table

The number of legs for a dining kitchen table, their shape and size directly depend on the shape and size of the table, as well as on the material of manufacture. For example, it will not work to make a table completely from chipboard on 4 legs, which are attached to the corners of the tabletop, since the chipboard material has insufficient thickness and strength. But if in such a model the tabletop is made of chipboard, and the legs are made of wooden beam, you get a very strong and durable product.

The legs for the kitchen dining table can be made independently according to the sketch, or you can buy ready-made ones in the furniture fittings store. Self-manufacturing legs is a time-consuming task, the complexity of which depends on the configuration of the legs. That is why many people prefer to buy ready-made products. In the furniture fittings store you can buy metal legs for the kitchen table, which are hollow pipes with a diameter of 70 - 90 mm, but you can also pick up wooden carved legs that look like balusters for a wooden staircase.

The dining kitchen table can be supported by one or more legs. It depends on the weight of the tabletop, the shape and configuration of the table. How different dining tables look with different amount, the shape and size of the legs, you can see the photos showing the wooden dining tables below.

To set the dining table on one massive leg, it is necessary to perform a high-quality cross-shaped strapping.

Also the table can be about two massive legs separated by a certain distance. Usually such tables have a rectangular or oval shape. Tables on two legs are convenient because the people sitting at it do not beat their feet on the legs of the table. At the bottom, these two legs expand to increase the area of ​​support, and are also connected at the bottom by a jumper board or reinforcement board.

Dining tables with four legs- the most common category and the easiest to perform, since complex calculations for strength and stability are not needed. It is enough to choose the legs of the correct size and set them at the correct distance from the edges of the table. The shape of the tabletop of such tables can be round, oval, square and rectangular.

The shape of the legs for the kitchen table can be very diverse. Remember that the aesthetic appeal of the legs is even more important than the beauty of the tabletop, as it will be hidden by the tablecloth, while the table legs will be visible to all guests.

Countertops for the kitchen table

The tabletop of the kitchen table can be made of solid wood (furniture board, which is boards glued together), as well as chipboard or glass. Naturally, massive tables look more refined and resemble a work of art, while chipboard tables are just an ordinary, unremarkable dining table. The end of the chipboard must be edged, so the cut must be perfect. Cutting chipboard at home, and even so that the cut is even, is quite difficult. Especially if the cut is semicircular. Therefore, sawing chipboard on the machine is better to order. Trimming laminated chipboard is best with PVC tape 2 mm thick or more or melamine tape. The first option is preferable, since the edges are smooth, even and rounded. If you paste over the end of the laminated chipboard with melamine tape, then the edges will be sharp, they may cause puffs on clothes, cuts on the skin, and the melamine tape is short-lived and does not withstand frequent water procedures.

Important! The thickness of the countertop should be more than 25 mm, preferably 28 - 35 mm. If a laminated chipboard with a thickness of only 18 mm is used, then from below it is imperative to make reinforcement in the form of a false plywood table top.

The shapes of the tops of wooden tables are not as diverse as the shapes of the legs.

Round tables for the kitchen - an option for an amateur. The main problem is that, oddly enough, such a table requires more space. You can’t put him in a corner, and even if you move him up to the wall, it’s all the same that people need free space around him to sit down. The round wooden dining table will look great in the dining room or large kitchen, living room, where it will stand in the middle of the room. In a small kitchen round table not appropriate. Unless, if only one or two people live in the house, and the table is small - no more than 90 cm in diameter. Round tables allow you to experiment with support. For example, use only one leg or three legs, but for greater stability, four legs are still used, installed at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from the edge of the table top. You cannot use two support legs in tables with a round top - this design is unstable.

Oval kitchen tables come in a variety of sizes, from small tables for oversized kitchens to huge tables that occupy the center of a dining area.

A small oval wooden kitchen table is designed for compact kitchens, it can be installed in a soft corner set, as shown in the photo. But the most common are still large tables and medium-sized tables, as they fit in average domestic apartments and at the same time many guests can be accommodated behind them. If there is nowhere to put a large table - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe living room and kitchen does not allow, then an oval sliding wooden dining table comes to the rescue.

Such a table usually has a table top divided in half, the halves of which can be moved, and additional inserts can be installed in the middle part of such a table. By the way, the shape of such a table in the folded state can be round, and the table acquires an oval shape only in the unfolded position.

Sliding wooden kitchen tables

It is worth highlighting in a separate category sliding tables for a large number guests. They can have different shapes: round, oval and rectangular. The most common are still rectangular and oval models. It is easier to make a rectangular sliding wooden dining table on your own than an oval one, since there is no need to round the corners with a carpentry tool.

Sliding mechanisms for such tables can also be different. Old Soviet tables were not equipped with roller guides or full roll-out guides, and the table had to be pushed apart with effort, as wood rubbed against wood. Especially if the table was folded for a long time, sometimes it was extremely difficult to move the wooden surfaces that had stuck to each other. Modern sliding tables have a special roll-out mechanism, which greatly facilitates the work, and also prevents damage to wooden parts and surfaces. Metal guides for the sliding table can be purchased at the hardware store.

Sliding wooden kitchen tables: photo examples.

Additional wooden inserts-sections, which are installed in the middle of the table, can be stored under the tabletop when the table is folded. The easiest way is to make special fasteners for them into which they will be inserted.

In modern sliding dining tables, the insert consists of two halves connected by hinges, folded in half and hidden under the table top using a special mechanism. To do this, under the main tabletop, an additional false tabletop with a hole in the middle must be required.

Tables on wooden legs, but with a glass top, are suitable for rooms in a style close to high-tech or minimalism. Sometimes a glass top is installed on top of wooden frame or a wooden tabletop with holes. In any case, the product is futuristic. The table top is usually made of tempered glass, it is not only impact resistant, but also much stronger than wood, and the surface is quite difficult to scratch. The legs are attached to the glass top with special fasteners. Such a table can be easily made on your own if you order glass cutting in an organization specializing in this.

Transforming tables are a separate category of tables, which, when folded, are a small compact bedside table. If you put it near the wall, then it will take no more than 50 - 60 cm. When unfolded, such a table can accommodate from 10 to 15 people. Hinged tabletop covers are attached with hinges. The most common form of transformer tables is rectangular, but round tables are also found.

DIY wooden dining table

To make a wooden table with your own hands, you need to have a workshop, since there will be a lot of dust, and it makes no sense to litter in an apartment or house. First you need to draw a sketch of the future table with the exact dimensions. Then sawing of wooden elements can be ordered at the sawmill, if it is not possible to do it yourself. Consider the manufacture of the simplest wooden dining table.

We will need the following materials and tools:

• Hacksaw;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Drill;
• Milling machine;
• Plane;
• Paint brush;
• bolts;
• Sandpaper and grinder;
• Wooden boards 22 mm thick;
• Furniture shield.

The first step is to cut out all the elements according to the sketch. The legs in our case will have a simple straight shape with cutouts that are easy to make with a jigsaw, and then clean with a grinder and chamfer.

The legs of the kitchen table according to the drawing consist of two horizontal elements (supports) with which the table rests on the floor surface, and two vertical elements (rack legs). They are connected to each other by a simple bolted connection (bolts 8 mm). The bolts are fastened through and on the reverse side are locked with a nut. The assembly starts from the bottom, first one vertical leg-rack is attached to the supports, then the same is done with the second leg. Then, a longitudinal connection is inserted into a special groove between the vertical legs-racks - a jumper board. It is fixed by the second vertical elements of the legs-supports.

The next step is the installation of the countertop. We put the finished furniture board and in the place where it is planned to mount the vertical elements of the legs, we install horizontal transverse stiffeners. These elements have a length equal to the width of the countertop. Then a flanging of wooden bars is installed on top. The technology for attaching the flanging to the tabletop and horizontal transverse stiffeners is easier to understand by watching the video at the end of the article. The strapping / flanging beam is fastened through the straps of the stiffeners with two self-tapping screws.

First, the bars are attached to the long sides of the tabletop, then perpendicular bars are attached to them with screws, located along the narrow side of the table. As a result, a free space remains between the tabletop and the flanging bars, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. To close it, a decorative wooden plank is used. To fix it to the bars, dowels are used. Holes for dowels are made in the bars and planks. Then wooden cylinders, which are called dowels, pins or dowels, are inserted into the holes of the strapping bars, having previously lubricated the hole with glue. Then a decorative strip is put on the protruding dowels. The tabletop is ready.

It remains only to screw the legs of the table to the table top. For this, the same bolts are used as for attaching the vertical leg-racks to the horizontal supports. Holes for them are best done in advance.

The design of this table turned out to be collapsible, after the feast it can be disassembled by screws and hidden in the pantry or behind the closet. More clearly, the sequence and technology for making a wooden table with your own hands can be viewed in the video instruction below.

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means toning and protecting wood, like wood stains, emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is easy to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not kept at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and the juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

Free means of protecting wood from decay - used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this option is not the best. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

The first steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, it turns out garden table like a magazine, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. The table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

table top

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer is applied to the surface of the end silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed out into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a table top. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

Table base with non-removable legs - simple wooden frame, on the left in Fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But the table top made of boards in this case is not the best. the best way: due to availability sharp corners it is without a frame, very complex and laborious, subject to splitting. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the table top made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from a stump saw cut to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be striking for the time being, and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. It's basically 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern mechanisms extensions with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "alive" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class