How to insulate a wooden floor in a private house. How to insulate a concrete floor in a private house How to better insulate floors

In any living space, floor insulation reduces heat loss by 15-27%. And in order to achieve maximum results, you need to carefully approach the choice of material and follow the work technology. In this article we will describe both aspects in detail and show how to properly insulate floors with your own hands.

For convenience of consideration, we will divide all heat insulators into two fractions:

1. Mineral;
2. Polymer.

The common quality of all heat insulators is the presence of air in the body of the material itself. Air is the best heat insulator (after vacuum). But the structure of the material, its physicochemical characteristics and biological activity have a decisive impact on the properties of the insulation as a whole.

Mineral insulation

This group includes:

• Mineral wool;
• Foam concrete;
• Expanded clay;
• Foam glass.

Mineral wool. Basalt, granite and glass wool are all materials with almost the same production process. The raw material melt is sprayed onto the cooled surface. The resulting thin threads are collected and packaged.

A similar process for producing cotton wool leads to similar pros and cons. All mineral wools have extremely low hygroscopicity, they cannot withstand any serious compressive load, and are capable of forming air suspensions of particles. That's why, to insulate the floor with cotton wool you will have to lay it between the joists in the floor, which is not always applicable for an apartment. Overall, in terms of price/quality ratio, this is an excellent option.

Expanded clay. Bulk material obtained by firing clay. Relatively high water absorption, low thermal conductivity. Environmentally friendly.

Foam concrete. Depending on the production technology, it may be:

• Structural;
• Thermal insulation (monolithic).

The difference is in compressive strength and physical characteristics. Accordingly, thermal insulating foam concrete has exceptionally good performance characteristics, but is somewhat inferior to other insulation materials in terms of thermal insulation properties.

Foam glass. Ideal material for floor insulation with unique performance characteristics and the highest price among all insulation materials.

Material\ characteristic	Foam glass	Expanded clay	Mineral wool
Water absorption	Practically zero	High	Very high
Thermal conductivity	Very low	Low	Low
Mechanical strength	High	High	Absent
Biological stability	Absolute	High	Average
Vapor permeability	Very low	High	High

This table deliberately does not indicate numerical values, because it varies greatly among different brands of the same material. For example, for foam concrete with a density 200 kg/m 3, thermal conductivity 0.048 W/(m * K), and at a density of 1200 kg/m 3, thermal conductivity increases by almost an order of magnitude, up to 0.4 W/(m * K). Expanded clay has the same variation, only the changes depend on the fraction and feedstock. But the general conclusions are as follows:

1. All mineral wools are very hygroscopic. When wet, they lose their thermal insulation ability. Rodents love this material (basalt fiber), but fungus does not grow on it. Not used for floor insulation.
2. When wet, expanded clay increases thermal conductivity by ≈20 times. When used as insulation, high-quality waterproofing is required.

Foam concrete Very good material for floor insulation, but its drawback lies in the subtleties of its manufacture. In principle, it can be done right on the spot, but failure to adhere to technology leads to a sharp deterioration in physical performance.

Foam glass generally leads in performance characteristics on the insulation market. Rodents (unlike foam polymers) and fungus avoid it, it is almost vapor-permeable and does not absorb moisture. Chemically inert. It is quite durable and can be easily processed with carpentry tools. But it has an exceptionally high price: 1 m2 of foam glass 3 cm thick will cost ≈900 rubles.

Polymer insulation

This group includes foamed polymers. But in order not to consider the entire range of such materials, we will focus on those that are suitable for floor insulation and are widely available. For example, “Penoizol” is extremely rarely sold in sheets, and rigid “Vinipor” is mainly produced and used in China.

Expanded polystyrene. For floor insulation, the best option is extruded polystyrene foam. It is produced under the brands “TechnoNIKOL”, “”, “Technoplex”, etc. It is a fairly rigid material with low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability. Rodents pay attention to it last. But it has two serious disadvantages:

• Flammable;
• Decomposes on contact with chemical solvents.

And if they fight flammability using carbon dioxide for foaming, then even contact with penoplex paints should be avoided.

Cross-linked polyethylene foam. Please note that only cross-linked polyethylene foam can be used for floor insulation. In this material, after physical or chemical treatment, additional bonds between oligomers appear. They give polyethylene foam increased strength and resistance to pressure loads. Plus, this polymer is not affected by household solvents. Produced under the brands “Penolon”, “Izolon”, etc.

Additionally, we can say that mold does not grow on polystyrene foams, although rodents easily destroy them.

If you want to save money first of all, use regular polystyrene foam. However, it is not as durable and is capricious to the conditions of the floor.

How to insulate the floor in an apartment

If there is a warm floor under your apartment, then all the work comes down to laying a cross-linked polyethylene foam underlay for the finishing coating. "Penolon" 8 mm thick, replaces 25 cm brickwork by thermal insulation ability. Immediately, on top of such a layer, you can lay linoleum or carpet, lay laminate or parquet.

And for the first floor, the process of floor insulation becomes more complicated. First, remove the floor covering. Concrete floors in the apartment are treated with a primer. A layer of cross-linked polyethylene foam 3 mm thick is laid on top. Then the logs are laid in increments of 0.6 m.

IMPORTANT: 60 cm should be between the sides of the joists, and not between the centers of the beam.

50X50 timber is used as logs in the apartment. Expanded polystyrene (or mineral wool, depending on specific conditions) is laid between the lags. In this case, extruded polystyrene foam is not required, because no load will be applied to it, and the price will be three times cheaper. Polyethylene foam is necessary to avoid the formation of cold bridges, because wood conducts heat 7 times better than polystyrene foam.

This structure should be closed in accordance with floor covering. If you intend to use floorboard, then it is simply sewn on top. Otherwise, it is necessary to lay plywood on the joists so that form a subfloor. At the same time, instead of one layer of plywood 12 mm thick, it is better to use 6 mm plywood, but lay it in two layers, spaced apart.

The base prepared in this way is suitable for laying any floor covering. Moreover, such a design is suitable for both concrete and wooden foundations. Of course, on the subfloor you will need to lay a 2 mm thick cross-linked polyethylene foam underlay. But it will already play the role of a shock-absorbing and leveling layer, and not insulation.

If you plan to install in the apartment tiles, then instead of 6 mm plywood, use sheets 14-16 mm thick. The total thickness of the plywood must be at least 30 mm. Then the top layer is primed and the tiles are laid on it. It should be glued with special adhesives, for example “Moment Universal” or “Bustilat-M”.

In this case, the floor was insulated and covered with OSB sheets on top

Floor insulation in a private house

Insulation of the floor in a house (on the first floor) is usually carried out directly on the ground. There are no restrictions for its construction, except perhaps a house on stilts. But its organization must be approached scrupulously.

Floor pie on the ground can be roughly divided into two parts. The first part includes at least four layers:

• Sand;
• Crushed stone;
• Polyethylene;
• Skinny concrete.

Sand is poured in a layer of 10-20 cm and compacted well. The same is done with crushed stone. At the same time, a layer of less than 10 cm loses its functionality, and if you pour more than 20 cm, then compact it well hand tools It won't work anymore. This has been proven empirically. And the functions of these two layers are to cut off the capillary rise of groundwater. In this case, the crushed stone must be on top. If you fill it with sand, the latter will gradually seep through the rubble. A double layer of thick polyethylene film is laid on top. It is needed to ensure that the concrete layer does not seep into the crushed stone. The film is laid overlapping, and the joints are taped.

The layer of rough screed should be 8-12 cm. Expanded clay may be used instead of crushed stone. This will increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor pie. The proportions of lean concrete are as follows: cement 1 hour: river sand 3 hours: expanded clay 4 hours. Dispersed steel fiber reinforcement will have an extremely positive effect.

After two days, sprinkle the moistened surface of the rough screed with a thin layer of cement, and then rub it in using grout. Ironing of this layer significantly increases the strength. They wait another week for the concrete to gain primary strength. And only then can you proceed to the second part.

It also consists of four layers:

• Waterproofing;
• Insulation;
• Finish screed;
• Flooring.

For waterproofing, use ordinary roofing felt, laying it in two layers. Due to the fact that the rough screed has not yet matured, it is preferable to use cold laying. For this purpose, bitumen mastic is used.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to fix the roofing material on the walls with a spacing upward of 10 cm.

Thermal insulation is performed with sheet extruded polystyrene foam. Minimum thickness 50 mm. The joints between the plates are taped. It seems more preferable to use 30mm thick insulation, laid in two offset layers.

The minimum thickness of the finishing screed is 5 cm. To prepare the solution, use high-quality river sand for 3 hours and cement for 1 hour. Exclusively good feedback obtained from the use of dispersed steel fiber reinforcement ( 0.7% by volume). In this case, you can do without the use of reinforcing mesh. Otherwise, it is necessary to lay a mesh with a cell size of 100 mm and a wire thickness of 3 mm. The mesh is laid so that it is at a height of 2-2.5 cm from the insulation. Before pouring the screed, damper tape is glued along the walls. The maturation time for a 1 cm screed is 1 week. As a result, you will get a warm, reliable and durable concrete floor.

It is worth approaching the process of floor insulation with maximum attention, because... A well-organized “floor pie” will help you save serious money on heating in the future.

Cold air comes from the ground, which is not able to hold the floor covering. And, as a result, 20% of the heat leaves the room through an uninsulated floor. Owners of their own homes, caring about creating a comfortable microclimate in them, often ask the question: how to insulate the floor in a private house?

Technological methods for thermal protection of floors laid on a concrete base

The procedure is quite simple, so you don’t have to be a great craftsman. Insulating the floor in a private house with your own hands can be done by an ordinary man if he is not lazy.

First, let's decide how to insulate the floors in a private house on a concrete base.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation from inside the room is carried out using the following thermal insulation materials:

• Foam plastic;
• extruded polystyrene foam;

The concrete base is cleaned of dust, dirt and impregnated with a deep penetration primer. The top is covered with a waterproofing layer. A good waterproofing material is isospan, which is placed with the white side facing the insulation and the shiny side facing the concrete.

Then the floor is thermally insulated with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. Sheets of insulation must be laid close to each other, connecting with tongue-and-groove ends. The gaps are filled with special glue with pieces of insulation. The insulating layer is covered on top with a vapor barrier membrane.

As a vapor barrier layer, roofing material, polyethylene or foil film is used, the sheets of which are overlapped. To ensure tightness, the joints are taped with reinforced tape. The next stage of floor insulation in the house is laying reinforced mesh and pouring a 100 mm thick cement mortar or concrete screed. Next perform decorative finishing linoleum, laminate or parquet.

Thermal protection of a wooden floor from the room side

Wood retains heat well. But this warmth of wooden floors is not enough if there is a basement under the house. Insulation of a wooden floor in a private house can be done from inside the room using heat-insulating building materials based on natural components:

• Mineral wool;
• basalt wool.

First, they dismantle the existing finished floor in the house and check the condition of the joists. If necessary, they are replaced or repaired. Then the logs are impregnated with bio and fire retardant compounds. Between them, bars are nailed, on which the cranial flooring of edged boards is laid. Before laying the insulation, overlapping sheets of waterproofing material - plastic film or roofing felt - are laid on top of the flooring and joists, secured with a construction stapler. The joints are sealed with adhesive reinforced tape. Next, between the logs, insulation is laid with a layer thickness 2 cm less than the height of the logs. This gap is necessary for ventilation.

If the height of the joists is not enough, then a counter batten is nailed along them, thus providing the required clearance. Then the vapor barrier material is spread overlapping on the floor, with the joints sealed with tape. Finished wooden floors are laid on top of the insulating “pie”, secured to the joists with nails.

Thermal protection of a wooden floor from the basement side

If the height of the basement allows, then on its side it is possible to insulate a wooden floor in a private house.

The technology for insulating the floor in a house from the basement side consists of:

• Preparations wooden beams. They are inspected, repaired if necessary, and impregnated with fire retardant and antiseptic compounds for wood.
• Waterproofing devices. Sheets of polyethylene or foil film are attached with a construction stapler to the beams with an overlap.
• Installation of insulation. Mineral or basalt wool mats are placed against existing beams and secured with wooden slats or wire. You can insulate it with a cheaper synthetic material - polystyrene foam. It is light in weight and easy to use.
• Vapor barrier devices. The vapor barrier membrane is attached to the beams with a stapler, sealing all joints with reinforced adhesive tape. As vapor barrier material use glassine, isospan, foil or polyethylene film.
• Installation of rough flooring. Edged board a subfloor is installed underneath, nailing it across the beams.

It is not difficult to insulate a wooden floor in a private house from the basement side. All work can be done with your own hands.

Thermal protection of the floor located above the ground

How to properly insulate the floor in rooms that do not have a basement, without reducing the height of the ceiling?

If there is no subfloor under the floor, then it should be insulated from the outside at the construction stage. Under the part of the house area located above the ground, the bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted. A crushed stone base 25 - 30 cm thick is placed on top, on top of which a sand cushion (5 -10 cm) is poured.

The made layer of sand is covered with overlapping sheets of polyethylene film, the seams are taped with reinforced tape. The installation of a sealed waterproofing layer is necessary to prevent groundwater from seeping into the thermal protection. Then lay bulk insulation - expanded clay or slab - extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex).

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer must be at least 15 cm. Penoplex slabs are laid as tightly as possible to each other, the seams are filled with sealant, expanded clay is compacted. If we insulate with penoplex, then a waterproofing layer must be laid on top of the thermal insulation layer. Then the insulating layer is covered with reinforced mesh and the screed is filled with cement mortar or M200 concrete. After the rough rolling of the floors has dried, you can begin installing the finishing coating.

Insulation of floors above an unheated room

For rooms located above an unheated room, you can insulate the floor of the house from inside the room.

What is the best and cheaper way to perform thermal insulation on the interfloor ceiling? It is better to insulate with lightweight building material - polystyrene foam, which has a low thermal conductivity coefficient and does not accumulate moisture. Thermal insulation of the floor begins with the dismantling of the existing floor coverings before the ceiling. Then the ceiling is cleaned of dust and construction debris, leveled with a cement screed and coated with a primer with high adhesion. A wooden lattice frame is mounted on the surface of the floors. The cells are lined with plastic or foil film, the edges of which should extend to lateral surface timber. Polystyrene foam 50 mm thick is laid on the floor in the compartments of the frame, sealing the gaps with silicone glue and pieces of insulation.

The top is covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, using methods to achieve tightness when laying its sheets. Next, a reinforced concrete screed is produced for finishing the floor of a private house.

Polystyrene foam 50 mm thick is laid on the floor in the compartments of the frame, sealing the gaps with silicone glue and pieces of insulation.

With easy-to-use polystyrene foam, you can cheaply insulate the floor with your own hands.

Thermal insulation of attic floors

By properly insulating the attic floor, you can prevent heat loss through the ceiling without lowering its height indoors.

To insulate the attic floor in a private home, natural-based insulation is used - mineral or fiberglass wool. A frame made of timber is mounted on the attic floor. The compartments are filled with a layer of waterproofing. Cloths of polyethylene film, glassine, foil or roofing felt are laid overlapping, attached to the frame with a construction stapler and the joints are sealed with double-sided adhesive tape. The insulation is placed on top at odds with the elements of the frame cell.

A vapor barrier is installed on top. To construct a vapor barrier layer, isospan, glassine, foil and polyethylene film are used. A vapor barrier membrane with one mirror surface is laid with the white side facing the insulation, reflecting towards the room. There should be a gap of 3-5 cm between the insulation and the vapor barrier. The frame compartments are covered on top with wood-fiber boards or a reinforced cement screed can be used.

To construct a vapor barrier layer, isospan, glassine, foil and polyethylene film are used.

The attic floor can be protected from heat loss with bulk building materials. Bulk insulation - expanded clay or ecowool - is poured into the compartments, completing the necessary hydro- and vapor barrier.

How to make an insulated attic floor with liquid thermal insulation building material? Liquid insulation, polyurethane foam, creates a continuous layer, without cracks or gaps. It is easily sprayed with a special tool and dries instantly. Installation of hydro and vapor barrier layers is not required under the laid polyurethane insulation.

Many owners who have their own home, trying to make the floor warm with their own hands, are not familiar with the rules and regulations thermal insulation works. Therefore, if you do not know how to properly insulate a floor, contact a specialist.

Video about floor insulation:

When choosing how to insulate a wooden floor in a private home, they proceed, first of all, from financial capabilities. Thus, expanded polystyrene is the most economical option, expanded clay is more expensive but is the most environmentally friendly, and mineral wool is easy to install and unattractive to rodents.

A warm base is the key to a warm floor

Before you start insulating the floor, you need to make sure that the base is thermally and waterproofed. At the same time, we must not forget about ventilation, which will prevent the development of fungi and mold in the underground. Because it destroys wooden base and the floor will last very little.

Insulation of the basement floor

If the house has a basement or ground floor, you need to take care of their insulation and waterproofing. This will prevent the basement from freezing in the winter and keep it cool in the summer. After all, the basement non-residential floor is often used specifically for storing food, and if it is located above the freezing level of the soil, such measures are mandatory. But there is no need to insulate an unheated basement underground.

The basement floor is insulated from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam, since it is not hygroscopic, unlike ordinary polystyrene foam. The insulation must be laid on waterproofing, such as bitumen and roofing felt. The base is dug out a meter and the EPS is attached to a special glue.

After this, the soil is backfilled layer by layer.

On the ground part of the basement floor, the insulation is laid with glue, and fixed on top with dowels and reinforcing mesh. The final stage is facing the base. The material can be any - from decorative stone to PVC panels. But it is better to choose a damage-resistant and moisture-repellent material.

If the base is low, about 50 cm, it is better to fill the space under the subfloor. This option will turn out to be much warmer - there is no cold air under the floor of the house, there is no need to install vents that will have to be closed for the winter.

Backfilling is done with ordinary soil, and the last 10 cm to the floor is filled with sand. Both soil and sand must be compacted separately in a wet state.

It is not economically profitable to fill a higher base. In this case, it will have to be insulated according to the same principle as the basement, but with ventilation vents that remain open in the summer and closed in the winter. Special attention should be paid to insulating the basement for a house on a columnar or pile foundation.

Freely “walking” cold wind significantly increases heat loss from the floor.

General features of wooden floor insulation

When the base is in order, you can proceed directly to the floor. Regardless of the stage of work (during the construction process or in an already inhabited house), do-it-yourself insulation includes:

1. Laying or checking and replacing joists.
2. Laying waterproofing on the joists (or under them if the joists are lying on sand).
3. Laying insulation between joists.
4. A layer of vapor barrier on top of the insulation.
5. Installation of a counter-lattice for the gap between the finished floor and the vapor barrier.
6. Finished flooring.

For waterproofing you can use any roll material- from thick polyethylene to innovative, but expensive, materials.

For vapor barrier, it is best to use foamed polyethylene with an aluminum coating on one side.

This will provide both additional insulation of the floor and prevent condensation from entering the insulation. If the winters are not very cold, sometimes only a layer of polyethylene foam is enough without additional insulation. But it is better to insulate the floor as well as possible, because then you will have to remove the covering again if the insulation is not enough.

The vapor barrier is laid with the “shiny” side facing the finished floor. Both hydro- and vapor barriers are laid overlapping with an allowance of at least 10 cm, and the joints are sealed with metallized tape.

Insulation with roll and tile materials

Even at the stage of installing the log, you need to decide what material will be used for insulation. Depending on its width and length, the lag pitch will be selected, between which the insulation is laid very tightly and without gaps.

Ideally, the height of the logs should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool layer, but given the need for an air gap between the vapor barrier and the finished wooden floor, you can simply not make a counter-lattice. In this case, the vapor barrier is attached with a construction stapler to the sides of the logs so that it lies on the mineral wool without an air gap between them.

It is important to remember that the sides of the slabs have different hardness. This type of insulation is installed with the hard side up. For convenience, the desired side is already marked with a blue stripe, so it’s difficult to make a mistake.

It is best to use slabs with corrugated edges - this will provide the best adhesion. Lay the slabs as tightly as possible, starting from the corner. The next row begins with an offset of half the slab. The last slabs must enter with force. Possible cracks are sealed with construction foam.

Insulation with bulk and sprayed materials

There are also more “exotic” ways to insulate floors in a house. For example, sawdust is increasingly being used as a natural and environmentally friendly material.

The technology is not very different:

• on the slabs fixed under the joists, a vapor-permeable material is laid, not polyethylene;
• sawdust is poured out between the joists and watered with a weak lime mortar from a watering can;
• As soon as the material dries and settles, the finished floor is laid - no vapor barrier is needed.

But here you need to pay attention Special attention hydro- and vapor barriers, as well as dryness of the expanded clay itself. Because of its pores, it is very hygroscopic, but practically does not release moisture. Therefore, if installed incorrectly, expanded clay that has accumulated moisture will only worsen the situation.

Insulating the floor of a house with sprayed materials - polyurethane foam, ecowool or foam insulation - is practically impossible to do on your own, and in some cases it is dangerous. This will require special equipment, and purchasing it to insulate a small house is extremely unprofitable.

The process of installing a wooden subfloor, its insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier is revealed in detail in the video:

Proper floor insulation is necessary to maintain warmth and dryness throughout the entire house, reduces heating costs, and helps maintain cozy atmosphere in room. To carry out the work efficiently, you need to become familiar with the basic technologies, and then master the procedure for laying the material and install the insulation, following the recommendations.

Cold concrete floors, even if there is a basement, can be easily insulated with polystyrene foam. It is important to create a layer of insulation on the basement side, since an uninsulated basement is a source of cold. High-quality insulation becomes a barrier to the penetration of cold into the building.

For proper insulation Usually they use sheets of slab foam, the thickness of which is 5-12 cm. You can purchase sheets with chamfers, since their installation is easier than the classic version. If the walls in the room are uneven, you need to mask deviations from the norm polyurethane foam. To level out uneven floors, foam of different thicknesses is used.

The foam is attached to the base with plastic dowels, the average length of which is 150 mm. Their size should be selected according to the specific parameters of the selected insulation. Work should begin from distant, hard-to-reach areas. The sheet is applied to the base, and the holes necessary for further fastening are drilled using a puncher. The sheet is removed, the designated places are drilled further until the required depth is obtained for the full installation of the dowels.

If whole sheets to specific floor contours in certain places it is not possible to adapt, you need to carefully cut out the parts that fit the shape and continue laying. Upon completion of installation, the surface of the insulation is plastered. You can lay a thin reinforcing mesh and apply plaster mixture and wait for it to dry.

The floor surface must be level. A concrete screed is poured and, if necessary, a slight slope is artificially created. If any cracks are noticed in the subfloor, they should be completely repaired.

Mineral wool must be protected with a sealed layer of vapor barrier. You can use plastic film or select the material individually. The layer is laid with a large overlap, which extends to the walls, and is secured with thin anchors.

Installation of guide beams is necessary to create a clear frame for laying each mineral wool tile. The distance between the logs should be equal to the width of the insulation boards or be slightly smaller so that the mineral wool is additionally held without fastenings.

Mineral wool slabs are placed in the slots between the grooves. If the material is used in rolls, it should be pre-cut. If a decision is made to lay mineral wool in two layers, then the joints of the second should, if possible, be placed on the middle part of the elements of the first.

A layer of waterproofing should be applied to the mineral wool, which should reliably seal the coating. It is necessary to prevent the absorption of moisture into the insulation, since it will linger in the material and can come out of it extremely slowly. After installing all layers of preparatory materials, you can lay the finished floor.

An expanded clay cushion is poured onto the pre-prepared, leveled floor. The thickness is 15-30 cm; depending on the required reliability of the insulation, the layer can vary in thickness, but should not be lower than 10 cm, since a coating that is too thin will bring minimal benefit.

Expanded clay is poured in an even, uniform layer, so the installation of additional beacons is required. Metal profiles divide the workspace into several equal parts. The distance between them should not exceed 70-80 cm. If necessary, wooden supports are constructed under the metal profile, since the material must be poured as evenly as possible.

For waterproofing, you can use polyethylene film. It should be slightly larger than the floor area. The edges are fixed at the top, the material rises slightly onto the walls. You can make a concrete screed on the waterproofing layer. Sand, cement and water are thoroughly mixed in a ratio of 3:2:2. When pouring the mixture onto expanded clay, you need to carefully level the coating.

Waterproofing can be done in another way. An expanded clay screed is installed for it. The insulation pillow is not covered with film, but is immediately filled with a homogeneous liquid solution - “cement laitance”. This is necessary to prevent the possibility of moisture affecting the expanded clay granules. The solution should envelop the insulation, so you should not make it too liquid so that it does not go into the thickness of the material.

If necessary, additional components are added to the solution after the mixture is created. Typically, such cement is produced in a 1:3 ratio with sand. To properly mix the mixture, use a construction mixer.

Foil materials can also help reliably insulate the floor. The finished surface is filled with concrete screed or laid with a layer of any insulation. Izolon or penofol is glued to it. These materials do not allow moisture to pass through, so to avoid settling, they should be mounted so that there is a small, ventilated cavity above them to allow excess moisture to escape.

To form a corresponding cavity, thin layers are placed on top of the insulation. wooden slats, the height of which is not less than 1.5 cm, the step is 30-50 cm. The laying level is controlled; if necessary, slats can be placed under the folding logs.

Floorboards are placed on the joists perpendicular to their location. Their thickness may not exceed 4 cm. An even layer of plywood can be laid on top of them, for which sheets 8-14 mm thick are suitable. If very thin sheets are selected, then the coating is laid in 2 layers. The floor covering is laid on the insulated floor structure. To make a warm floor on a foil base, the selected insulation is laid, and the heating systems are laid out on it. The logs and finishing part of the floor are installed.

If you plan to pour a cement screed onto penofol, you must purchase the “ALP” type; it is equipped with a protective coating that prevents cement from affecting the penofol. This condition must be met, since cement is an aggressive environment to which aluminum, which acts as a coating for this insulation, reacts.

Video - Izolon

Thanks to the possibility of insulating the floor with foam, there is no need to use special protective films; there is no need for additional leveling of the surface or its restoration after a few years. The frame is constructed by aligning guides and modeling profiles. Foam is sprayed. The flooring is being installed.

If it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of an already finished floor, then foam insulation will reduce the volume and duration of work. The old coating is dismantled, foam is sprayed, and it swells almost instantly. To complete the work, it is enough to install a new floor covering. If produced renovation work For additional insulation of an already constructed wooden floor, you can only partially dismantle the boards to obtain the access inside the floor necessary when spraying foam.

Insulating the floor with foam allows you to provide airtight thermal insulation, since the material forms a homogeneous consistency.

There is no need to install waterproofing or any vapor barriers, since the foam independently performs their functions. The foam hardens within a few minutes after application, so it can be covered with floor coverings on the same day. It contains no nutrients, so there is no risk of deformation by harmful insects or rodents. It does not emit harmful substances, and its base is water. When purchasing, you can receive a manufacturer’s warranty for 50 years of operation, respectively, the actual terms are much higher.

Experts advise using the method of spraying ecowool from a special dispenser. The insulation is distributed from a previously rented or purchased installation. After drying, it can be covered with a floor covering. The thickness of the insulation should not be less than 30 cm to avoid heat loss.

Without the use of special installation, ecowool can be laid manually if required small area coverings. The material consumption for manual installation exceeds the amount for a similar installation from a spray gun by up to 50%. Hard-to-reach areas are not easy to fill, so there is a risk of them remaining empty. The positive side of this method is that there is no need to purchase a blow molding machine.

After opening the package, the insulation is placed in a large container. It needs to be fluffed using a special drill with a mixing attachment. When selecting suitable container It should be remembered that when fluffed, the volume of ecowool increases three times.

A vapor barrier, such as clad kraft paper, is installed. Ecowool is laid out on the surface; a bucket or other capacious but not heavy object can become a dispenser. When manually laying ecowool, before covering the finishing floor, you should wait some time until a moisture-impermeable crust forms under the influence of lignin. After finishing the work, you can lay the floorboards.

Video - Blowing ecowool

It is recommended to lay polystyrene foam boards using logs, since in this case they will take the greatest load. The thickness of the coating should not be less than 10 cm. The cavity between polystyrene foam and joists, a special technological gap around the perimeter of the walls, can be sealed using fiberglass insulation, since its price is lower than that of polyurethane foam.

When laying a thermal insulation layer on top of a concrete base, you should select a material with the maximum strength characteristics available to the developer. To level the base, you can limit yourself to laying slabs of varying thicknesses, however the best option It is considered to create an even screed that will hide all the unevenness of the concrete, ensure the most even position of the slabs, and therefore increase their resistance to heavy loads. If necessary, you can use a leveling screed to change the angle of inclination by a few centimeters.

The prepared base is covered waterproofing film, which is fixed along the walls, extending slightly onto them, therefore, when calculating this material, the margin required for hemming should be taken into account. When laying expanded polystyrene, the fastening solution is applied to the entire surface of the insulation; its thickness should be about 2 cm, and if possible it is distributed evenly. The structure is fixed with reinforcing mesh.

The finishing screed is applied after the glue has completely dried, its thickness is 6-8 cm. All gaps formed for technical reasons or due to delamination or cracking of the material are sealed with polyurethane foam. If not available, you can use fiberglass. Rolled waterproofing is installed. It should be secured with an overlap of at least 10 cm. All strips are fastened with construction tape, sold in strips. A floor covering is laid on top of the insulating layers.

Video - Floor insulation with polystyrene foam

Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam avoids seams. It is beneficial to save space, since the thickness of the insulation layer does not exceed 10 cm. A layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing is optional. Polyurethane foam resists condensation and does not allow or absorb moisture. The entire floor can be covered in one day, since the application speed is record-breaking in comparison with other insulation materials. All components for preparing the solution are stored and purchased in liquid form. The service life of the material is from 60 years.

The use of polyurethane foam is not harmful environment. The components of the composition do not evaporate, so it is completely harmless to human health. The material is not subject to rotting, mold cannot grow on it, since it is not a favorable environment for bacteria. Rodents and other pests also do not live in polyurethane foam, since it is not suitable as food. The mixture must be prepared immediately before pouring it. After applying and drying the layer of polyurethane foam, you can make the final screed without the use of additional coatings.

To ensure high-quality floor insulation, an analysis of the loads that will be placed on it should be carried out. The insulation must be installed following the rules, since working according to the instructions will help ensure its long service life and protect the floor as much as possible from heat loss.

Properly insulated floors in the house are the key to comfortable living. This event is worth thinking about at the stage of construction work on the construction of your home. In this case, insulation can be carried out with minimal costs and a greater degree of convenience when creating a warm floor.

When purchasing housing on the secondary market, you will have to carry out insulation work in relation to the finished coating. In such situation technological process carrying out the work will be significantly more complicated.

Rules for floor insulation

When carrying out floor insulation work during construction work, the following rules must be followed:

1. If groundwater is located at a distance of less than two meters, waterproofing methods must be applied.

2. Laying the subfloor.

It should consist of layers:

• underlying;
• leveling;
• intermediate;
• insulating.

3. Laying a layer of thermal insulation.

4. Design of the finished floor.

Which can be made from:

• planed boards;
• Chipboards;
• OSB boards.

What and how to insulate floors?

The floors are insulated various materials, including:

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• expanded clay.

The mineral wool material has the property of excellent moisture absorption, due to which its rapid destruction occurs. To avoid this, it is necessary to lay waterproofing under the layer of this insulation.

In the world modern technologies It is possible to carry out floor insulation in three ways:

1. insulated screed method;
2. insulated wooden flooring;
3. using various systems and devices for floor heating.

Selection of insulating material

To make an objective choice of insulating material for the purpose of floor insulation, it is necessary to familiarize yourself in advance with all the options offered by the market. Typically, polystyrene foam, mineral wool or expanded clay are used. Each material has many modifications with various properties and characteristics. Also, each of the above substances has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Polystyrene foam and expanded clay are the main insulation materials

Styrofoam – comfortable material for floor insulation. It is a white gas-filled polymer consisting of small foamed polystyrene particles. It consists of ninety-seven percent air, which is the best heat insulator. Has moisture-repellent properties. The manufacturer produces the material in the form of sheets, differing in different characteristics in terms of strength and thickness.

There are several varieties of foam, including:

• polyurethane foam;
• polyethylene foam;
• polypropylene foam.

The disadvantages of polystyrene foam are:

• inability to pass air;
• susceptibility to mechanical damage, including as a result of rodent activity;
• ability to be destroyed under the influence of paints and varnishes.

Expanded clay It is an oval glassy material of brown color with a sintered shell.

It is produced in the form:

• gravel;
• crushed stone;
• sand.

The material is made by firing clay or shale, which begins to “swell” when exposed to high temperatures. Depending on the temperature regime chosen by the expanded clay manufacturer, it is possible to obtain a product of varying density.

Main characteristics of expanded clay:

• granule size;
• hardness;
• layer density after filling;
• ratio of weight and volume.

The advantageous properties of expanded clay over other floor insulation materials are:

• thermal insulation characteristics;
• sound insulation;
• low cost.

Thermal insulation of the floor in an old house

When insulating the floor in a house that has already been built and put into operation, two options are possible:

1. With low ceilings, when an additional layer of building materials used will reduce the distance between the ceiling and the floor, it is necessary to completely remove the old floors. In some cases, even some deepening is carried out in order to improve the comfort of the home.
2. Overlaying elements of the new floor onto the old version.

Sequence of work

1. Carrying out a deepening with a decrease in the floor level relative to the original zero ground level.
2. Applying a layer of waterproofing.
3. Attaching the heat insulator.
4. Installation of rough and finishing floors.

Insulation of a wooden floor

To carry out insulation work in an old house with a wooden floor, it is necessary to check its strength. To do this, you need to remove several boards and evaluate the condition of the joists. If they are not rotten or damaged by rodents, then you can safely proceed to the stages of insulation.

Sequence of work:

1. Cover the floor surface with a waterproofing material, which can be used as:

• roofing felt;
• glassine

2. Apply to waterproofing wooden beams sixty centimeters thick and attach them to the surface of the old floor.

3. Fill the distance between the beams with heat-insulating material.

4. Lay the finished floor on the beams, which can be in the form of:

• edged boards;
• OSB slabs.

Thermal insulation of concrete base

In private homes, the base of the floor is often a concrete surface. If it is not insulated, then the temperature in the room with any heating method will not rise above thirteen degrees due to the fact that any heat will be absorbed by the concrete floor.

Sequence of work

When insulating a concrete floor, you need to follow the sequence of certain actions.

1. Cleaning the concrete surface with a broom or vacuum cleaner.
2. Location of the waterproofing layer on the floor
3. Laying wooden logs in a perpendicular position relative to the expected direction of the main movement around the room

Floating floor insulation method

The design of a floating table consists of many layers of various building materials, between which there is no rigid fixation. The use of polystyrene foam as insulation is effective due to its excellent heat-retaining characteristics and ease of installation.

Sequence of work

1. Laying waterproofing on an old concrete floor.
2. Laying the insulating layer.
3. Applying a second layer of waterproofing.
4. The product of the screed is six centimeters thick.

Heated floor installation

Depending on the nature of the heat source, there are several options for heated floors.

Such as:

1. Water floor. It is the most economical option for insulation and heating due to the low costs of its installation. However, this type of floor insulation is prohibited in multi-storey buildings due to increased accident rates with potential flooding of the floors located below.
2. Electrically heated floor belongs to the category of environmentally friendly methods of insulation and floor heating. Characterized by rapid heating of the floor and air in the room. As heating element an electrical cable is used.
3. Infrared heated floor easy to install and consists of laying a thin film, which is a source of infrared radiation.

Insulating the floor in a house with a basement

Insulation of the entire house must begin from the basement. It is necessary, first of all, to prevent groundwater moisture vapor from destroying construction material, from which the house is made. Therefore, the main measures for carrying out insulation work will be waterproofing and vapor barrier. It is also important to ensure sufficient ventilation of the space under the ceiling.

Sequence of work

1. Ensuring the ventilation process is sufficient.
   • Making ventilation holes in the part of the foundation that rises above the ground level. The total number of vents must be at least four. Their location should be in different parts Houses. Ventilation is carried out due to the temperature difference, which ensures air movement.
2. Thermal insulation and waterproofing of soil.

Insulation of the floor in a house located on the ground

When the floor is located on the ground, the soil layer is influenced groundwater, due to which the moisture content in it increases. To insulate such a floor, it is important to provide adequate waterproofing for better heat retention in the house.

Sequence of work

1. Before starting insulation work, it is necessary to assess the location of the floor relative to ground level. It is also necessary to take into account the presence of a basement.
   • If the house has a basement, then it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation thinner than if it does not exist, and above the waterproofing.
   • In the absence of a basement, thermal insulation is placed depending on the depth of groundwater.
2. Destroy vegetation.
3. Add crushed stone and gravel to the soil.
4. Lay a layer of sand to cover the previous laying level.
5. Make a concrete screed.
6. Apply a waterproofing layer, followed by a thermal insulation layer.
7. Cover all layers with cement screed, at least four centimeters thick.
8. Secure the screed with steel mesh.
9. Create a finished floor.

Insulation of floors between floors

between floors it is necessary to carry out only in the case when in the rooms located on both sides of the ceiling there are different temperature regime. This method of insulation is also suitable for a house with an attic. The choice of insulating component depends on the method of its application, on joists or on floors.

Sequence of work

1. Laying a vapor barrier layer between joists or on slabs.
2. Fastening the insulation in such a way that there are no gaps between its sheets. In some cases, installation with overlapping seams is allowed.
3. Application of waterproofing material.
4. Laying the finished floor.

If there is an attic in the house as a non-residential space, a windproof structure is laid on top of the insulation.

How to insulate a floor in a country house?

Cold floor in country house is the reason:

• the formation of black wet spots of rot on the walls;
• the appearance of a specific unpleasant odor deceit.

As a result of constant dampness in the cold season, building materials gradually deteriorate.

An insulated floor in a country house helps save on heating costs due to heat retention.

Sequence of work

1. Floor insulation begins in the basement due to the fact that heat loss through this room is up to twenty percent.
   • Cleaning the walls and floor of the basement from various types pollution.
   • Treatment of the entire surface with chemicals to destroy fungus and mold.
   • Leveling by applying plaster.
   • Treatment with a primer that has moisture-protective characteristics.
   • Fastening thermal insulation material using dowels, or applying an adhesive composition to them.
2. Insulation of the floor in a country house.
   • Remove debris and dust from the floor surface using a broom or vacuum cleaner.
   • Elimination of traces and causes of wood damage.
   • Surface treatment with special chemicals that have antiseptic and moisture protection agents.
   • Fastening the insulation using glue and self-tapping screws.
   • Laying and fastening of vapor barrier film.
   • Exterior finishing work.
3. Insulation of the foundation. This procedure must be carried out from the outside of the house.
   • Digging a trench around the perimeter of the house seventy centimeters deep.
   • Cleaning the foundation freed from the earth.
   • If necessary, carry out its restoration.
   • Covering the walls with a layer of waterproofing, which can be used as mastic, impregnation or roofing felt.
   • Fastening the insulation - polystyrene foam.
   • Filling the trench with sand to a depth of fifteen centimeters, and gravel to a depth of fifty centimeters.

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