The best insulation for the walls of a frame house comparison. We choose a heat-insulating material for warming a frame house. Wall insulation inside and out

The owners of suburban areas, when choosing a material for summer cottages, begin to analyze the available alternatives from timber, brick or log cabins, undeservedly ignoring the frame technology. But the construction frame house with proper insulation is good decision for fast results on a limited budget.

In this article I will talk about which heaters are best used for frame houses and which parts of it need to be protected from the ingress of cold air.

What needs to be insulated in a frame house

When building frame houses, customers sometimes agree to insulate only the walls, which leads to some cost savings during the construction phase, but greatly affects the level of comfort and the cost of heating in the future.

For optimal heat and sound insulation (provided that people will live in the house at least occasionally during the cold season), it is necessary to insulate all places where air from the street can enter the premises, i.e. in addition to walls, it is also a floor and under-roof space.

Only by observing the specified norms, it is possible to achieve the correct heat-saving effect.

Types of insulation for frame houses

In the most general case, heaters can be divided into two large classes: natural and synthetic. Natural (or organic) materials are mainly natural substances such as peat, clay or. Currently, they are rarely used due to their low energy saving and moisture resistance characteristics.

They were replaced by synthetic materials with a much higher thermal insulation ability. Among them, for the insulation of frame houses, the following are most often used:

Styrofoam;
mineral wool;
polyurethane foam;
ecowool;
expanded clay.

Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages, which we will discuss below.

Styrofoam

In the last century, it was the best insulation for a frame house - quite cheap, easy to cut and fit, has a small specific gravity and does not absorb moisture.

The main advantage of foam plastic is that when it is laid, no additional protection in the form of moisture-absorbing films is required, so the cost of installation is very attractive in comparison with other means of insulation.

However, polystyrene also has serious disadvantages:

flammability - upon contact with fire, very caustic and toxic substances are released;
low noise insulation - there are heaters that simultaneously protect the building from extraneous noise, which cannot be said about foam;
rodents love it, building their nests in it;
fragility - the material does not tolerate physical impact, so you need to work with it very carefully.

In general, polystyrene has a fairly high popularity among developers (due primarily to its low price).

Mineral wool

High-quality insulation, which is gradually coming out on top in popularity. For laying inside the walls of a frame house, rectangular mats are used, which are easily cut with a knife.

Among other advantages of mineral wool, it should be noted:

Light weight;
Good heat and sound insulation;
fire resistance;
Durability.

The main disadvantage is the presence of small particles that can penetrate the body and cause serious illness. Therefore, when installing mineral wool, the walls of the frame house are covered from the inside with special vapor barrier films - not so much for their intended purpose, but in order to avoid the penetration of mineral wool particles into the room.

Another disadvantage of this insulation can be considered susceptibility to the destructive action of moisture - when wet, even by a few percent of the volume of mineral wool, it can lose up to half of its heat-insulating properties. Therefore, when insulating walls and roofs, the openings of the frame block must be protected from the outside with waterproofing materials.

polyurethane foam

One of the most modern materials, which is characterized by high thermal insulation properties, resistance to water and fire, as well as a high speed of application to the surface.

This insulation belongs to the class of sprayed substances. It is obtained by mixing two components that are delivered to the facility separately, under the action of air.

In the process of spraying, toxic substances are released, so work with this material is done in protective clothing.

The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam is its high price - if the work on insulation with foam plastic or mineral wool can be done independently, then polyurethane foam requires the use of special equipment, so it will cost several times more to insulate something with it. And since the choice in favor of a frame house is often dictated precisely by economic considerations, polyurethane foam as a heater is still quite rarely used here.

Ecowool

Ecowool is a completely natural insulation, consisting of 95% cellulose (shredded paper, most often newsprint) and special fillers that make it non-flammable. It does not require the use of any protective films, so the entire structure of the house will be protected exclusively by environmentally friendly materials. This material has other advantages that provide it with increasing distribution:

very high performance heat and sound insulation;
resistance to decay and fire;
lack of shrinkage and moisture resistance;
lack of seams and cold bridges.

The disadvantage of ecowool is the same as that of polyurethane foam: its application requires special equipment and qualified performers, which seriously increases the cost of work.

Exists different ways applying ecowool, but the most productive of them is “wet”, after which the material must dry for several days.

The laying of this insulation in the walls can also be carried out in a “dry” way, with a certain skill it can be done independently.

Expanded clay and other bulk materials

The use of bulk insulation for a frame house is possible, but has some limitations. The main problem when working with expanded clay, slag and other similar materials is that over time they can cake and settle, leaving part of the previously insulated surface unprotected. This greatly reduces the quality of all thermal insulation, therefore, when filling such heaters, they must be very carefully tamped.

Bulk materials are mainly used for. They can also be used for heat treatment of walls, but only in those areas where the average daily temperature does not fall below -20 ° C.

Before backfilling, waterproofing must be done to prevent the insulation from getting wet from the outside. At the same time, the use of any membrane films is undesirable; glassine is best suited for these purposes. In general, work with bulk insulation is quite complicated and time-consuming, in this they are much inferior to the same mineral wool.

Summarizing all of the above, two conclusions can be drawn:

that in most cases, when the main goal is to build a reliable and solid house for little money, it is worth choosing mineral wool or polystyrene;
If the environmental component is more important to you, your choice is ecowool (or mineral wool, subject to the installation technology).

For this, I round off, and I look forward to your questions and opinions in the comments.

Frame houses are being built very, very actively. But even such reliable and high-quality structures in the Russian climate cannot do without insulation. And this means that the choice correct option a quiet life in the house depends on it and on the literacy of work.

Why is it necessary?

Panel buildings are very popular among summer residents: they are attracted by the opportunity, having started work in late autumn, to have a full-fledged house by the beginning of the season. At the same time, such structures:

environmentally friendly;
are inexpensive;
serve for many decades.

But all these advantages are realized only if the insulation of the frame house is done properly.

Otherwise, it will be quite difficult to call it comfortable. It is worth immediately distinguishing between two types of buildings.

Buildings for permanent use by default should have solid thermal protection.
If it is planned to be there only from the end of spring to the end of autumn, thermal insulation should be minimal - strictly to maintain the stability of the structure itself.

The "framework", intended for the summer period, has a wall thickness of no more than 70 mm. In the cold season, the required figure is at least twice as high. If you limit yourself to a thinner layer of material, the heat leakage will be disproportionately large, and you will either freeze or lose a lot of money on heating.

Important: for winter living, it will not be necessary to insulate the entire volume of the frame, but only its individual details, first of all:

slopes;
cellars;
attic planes;
plinth structures.

It will not work to get by with only a warm floor, even if its power is excessive. Through basements, external walls and other parts of the structure of the panel house, heat will flow away all the same cheerfully. Given the variety of conditions where heaters will be placed, it is impossible to give a universal answer about the best option. Basement walls are equipped with some types of thermal protection, bearing walls- by others, the overlap of the cold attic - by third. But in any case, the choice of suitable insulation formats always comes first.

Types of thermal insulation

Cross (additional) insulation of frame structures is carried out, as its name implies, by adding an auxiliary volume of insulation to one layer. Such a solution allows you to reliably close the existing cold bridges. Most builders prefer outdoor insulation- because it does not take away precious interior space, which is always lacking in dachas and rural dwellings. In addition to thermal protection of the facade plane, Special attention It is worth paying attention to preventing heat from escaping through corners.

They are the most problematic points in any home; now you can find out which solutions to all these problems should be preferred.

What should be insulated?

Insulation for a frame house cannot be bulk; standard technology involves the use of only tiles or rolls. The difference is not only that "one is put down, the other is untwisted." Technologists are aware of the differences in nominal thickness. Usually, increasing the layer thickness increases the energy efficiency of the material.

But it is worth remembering that even a material that is impeccable in itself can be applied incorrectly, and this immediately devalues all the advantages. Therefore, it is better to either turn to professionals, or study the slightest subtleties and nuances of each coating.

The vast majority of amateur builders and official firms use the "brilliant four":

mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene;
mineral plates;
isolon.

There are many other options, the main division of which is carried out by chemical nature (organic or inorganic substances in the base) or by structure - solid blocks and bulk substances. You can even choose expanded clay, metallurgical slag and other bulk reagents. But the problem with this solution is the gradual shrinkage of the thermal protection layer. You will have to thoroughly ram the layer to be laid, and not just fill the entire volume of the wall, floor, and so on with the selected composition. Slab materials do not cause such problems - but they also have their own "pitfalls".

So, use mineral wool in pure form for external insulation walls is pointless: it will not hold well, and it will retain its thermal qualities only until the first rain or snow. An indispensable condition for success is attachment to a special structure made of bars stuffed vertically. Each beam is placed only where the border between the mineral wool slabs passes. You should also take care of external protection against getting wet.

It is important to wear respiratory protective equipment, wear special goggles and do not remove gloves when working.

Styrofoam is a substance of organic nature. Its undoubted advantages are:

low specific gravity;
protection of walls from strong winds;
exclusion of decay.

But these advantages also have a downside: high fire risks. Therefore, it is impossible to finish the walls with foam plastic that has not undergone special processing.

Mineral wool is absolutely non-flammable. A similar advantage can be obtained when using basalt wool, but it has another significant plus - ease of processing and perfect safety for builders.

The use of penoizol is called by many the ideal solution.

But he also has weaknesses - after a few years, areas are formed where the material will not fit snugly. Therefore, the heat loss will increase sharply. The liquid version of the coating has a more powerful adhesion and lasts 50–60 years (a guarantee is given for such a period). The disadvantage is also, however, obvious - without special equipment, success will not work. But penoizol is in any case acceptable for keeping heat in the floor, roof and walls.

Internal insulation of the walls of frame buildings with rolled materials is impossible. More precisely, it will be possible to attach them to the walls, but then the walls themselves will shrink, and the thermal insulation will inevitably be damaged. Regardless of the option chosen, and whether the work is done inside or outside the house, it must be carried out very carefully. It is useful to keep this in mind whenever the thought arises of saving money by working on your own. If among all the materials the choice fell on penoizol, its installation is preceded by the installation of profiles.

Expanded clay frame structures are extremely rarely insulated, and such a choice does not justify even its low cost. Yes, the material is very dense and does not absorb water well. But if he has already absorbed the liquid, its return will be very slow. Expanded clay is very heavy, and even with a minimum dry density, it presses on the walls, the foundation is very strong. This circumstance will have to be taken into account when decorating the exterior, choosing the most durable solutions for it.

But the main thing is not even this, but the fact that expanded clay is three times worse in terms of thermal qualities than mineral wool and polystyrene. Be sure to use therefore layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. Solid competition to this material is made by stone wool insulation. Working with her plates is a pleasure, there is no need for complex tools. Cutting into the desired fragments is done with a knife or a saw with fine teeth.

For your information: stone wool blocks cannot be compressed, rammed and squeezed. This will certainly lead to negative consequences. Ecowool also needs to be used wisely. So, in its pure form, ecological cotton wool is very flammable, but if you mix it with borax and boric acid, the level of fire danger will drop sharply. In addition, such processing will avoid interest from microscopic organisms and certain animal species.

Near the surface, ecowool can contain up to 20% water (by mass) and retain its basic insulating properties.

When the material dries, it fully restores performance. Such advantages as an optimal microclimate, damping of extraneous sounds, the absence of seams and sanitary safety will also be attractive to people. Concerning possible problems, they are:

you will have to limit yourself to vertical backfilling in order to guarantee thermal protection;
you will definitely need specialized equipment;
if the fastening control was poor, the material may settle;
ecowool is not very appropriate where high humidity may be present.

Insulation of frame houses with sawdust is another traditional, even centuries-old technology. But there is no reason to consider it exclusively primitive, as modern people often do. Careful consideration of the features of the material makes it possible to profitably embody its positive features and weaken the negative ones. The undoubted advantage of sawdust is its natural origin, affordable price and decent heat retention. It is only necessary to deal with the risk of ignition and with the settlement of rodents in the material.

Antiseptic components, lime, clay, gypsum or cement help to solve such problems.

Important: when choosing an additive for sawdust, you should pay attention to how hygroscopic it is.

In many places high humidity can lead to very unpleasant consequences. Large fraction sawdust is usually taken on the draft insulating layer, and heat retention is mainly provided by a finer substance. When buying or self-harvesting, you should pay attention to the dryness of the material, the quality of thermal protection depends on it.

Adherents of modern materials and the latest technologies can insulate frame houses with extruded polystyrene foam. It is quite widely used when working on floors, including:

over unheated basements and technical undergrounds;
under attic ceilings;
to enhance the acoustic protection of structures separating the floors of the house.

Usually, on the floors of frame houses, expanded polystyrene is placed in the intervals of the lags; at the request of the owners or craftsmen, it can be mounted under a reinforced cement and sand screed. The disadvantage of the material (easily eliminated, however, with a careful approach) is the need to strictly observe the specified gaps between the plates. Expanding when heated, polystyrene foam can be damaged - gaps are needed to prevent such a development of events. It is important to remember the flammability of this synthetic substance, it should be used with caution.

It is unacceptable to glue it on mixtures containing any flammable or simply caustic component.

In addition to insulation, it is worth remembering that reliable, well-thought-out ventilation should be provided in a frame house.

The input of fresh air is always organized from the utility rooms, and the overflow is carried out under the doors separating the rooms. If you do not take care of the presence of a gap under them, then not only freshness, but even distribution of heat in the home will not be achieved. When it is not possible to form such a gap, they come to the rescue:

special channels for overflow;
lattice through the wall;
separate channels for the passage of air into a particular room.

Specifications

The more monolithic the insulation layer, the more stable it usually holds heat. That's why the density of the structure should be given paramount attention, it is much more important than a big name or a whole series of certificates. The only particularly lightweight material that deserves attention is expanded polystyrene (including its modification such as polystyrene). Even mineral wool is already in the light category, although its specific gravity can vary widely. It is this circumstance that allows you to choose the optimal solution for a variety of conditions and situations.

If the strongest cold blocking is needed (in living rooms and on the floor), the tightest versions are required. For non-residential attic requirement bar below. With a density of 75 kg per 1 cu. m. cotton insulation is suitable only on surfaces that carry a relatively low load, as well as for thermal protection of pipes.

The P-125 brand is already more worthy, it can be used in different procedures:

sheathing of ceilings and floors;
thermal insulation of walls;
thermal protection of partitions;
suppression of external noise.

Cotton wool category ПЖ-175 has increased rigidity and is not used in frame houses, to a greater extent it is used in stone and concrete buildings. If you plan to cover the walls with siding, you can use basalt wool with a density of 40 to 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Moreover, the most dense material is recommended to be used in the upper parts of the walls. Under the plaster, experts advise taking cotton wool with a specific gravity of 140–160 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Less high requirements for heaters used in the interior of the frame house.

When the dwelling is covered pitched roof, the optimal parameters are 30–45 kg per 1 cu. m, and if it is planned to insulate the attic, the lower bar is already 35 kg.

Five times higher than the minimum value for mineral wool under flat roof, and for expanded polystyrene it is much more gentle, only 40 kg per 1 cu. m maximum. In the floors, loose insulation is allowed to be used only when laying in the intervals of the lags. Otherwise, the thermal protection will be a mechanically loaded element, which will adversely affect its characteristics.

Residents of frame houses naturally strive to ensure that their habitats are not only warm, but also environmentally friendly; errors in the selection of insulation can interfere with the achievement of this goal. More recently meet ecologically safe way thermal protection was possible only in elite areas, but now such schemes have become much more accessible. In the first place, quite predictably, are the fibers of natural raw materials:

woody;
linen;
hemp and some others.

The advantage of such substances is the zero degree of allergic and toxicological risk. The softness of the structure makes it difficult for individual components to penetrate into the outer space. In an environmentally friendly house, there is absolutely no place for mineral and glass wool. Shards of glass and stone fibers, insignificant in size, cannot be seen without a magnifying glass. But they can cause quite large-scale harm to health.

Important: no matter how great the desire for cleanliness and health protection is, this is not a reason to refuse antiseptic treatment of a number of materials - where it is really needed.

Flame retardants are most often made from borax, a natural mineral that is completely safe. The vast majority of thermal protection components, however, do not pose a danger only under strictly specified conditions. One of them is always the preservation of the integrity of the insulating "pie", from which one or another substance cannot escape normally. Linen insulation is relatively cheap and at the same time quite normal, based on data obtained from medical studies in different countries.

Peat blocks are now becoming increasingly in demand in frame construction. 1 cu. m of such material costs about 3 thousand rubles, and it will last from 75 years, all this time being a sharply unfavorable place for microbes. What is important in our troubled era, such a heater is able to reduce the entry of penetrating radiation into the house by 80%. The only problem is that there is still little operating experience, and it is not clear how peat blocks will behave in different conditions after many years.

Cork structures are easily placed under the wallpaper, on internal walls and under the floor but due to the very high price, it is unlikely that many people will be able to appreciate their quality in the foreseeable future.

Manufacturers Overview

Reviews allow you to appreciate not only different kinds insulation materials, but also the professionalism and conscientiousness of individual firms.

Attention: you need to take into account that we will talk only about the really best of the best companies that have shown all their capabilities over the years of competition.

Firm "Rockwall" supplies the market with fireproof thermal insulation made of stone wool. At the same time, it focuses on ensuring the highest environmental and sanitary performance of its products. You can use such mineral wool as part of thermal protection:

pipes;
facade walls;
room partitions;
roof structures;
areas under heavy load.

100 mm of such a slab is enough to replace almost 2 m of brickwork.

french corporation "Isover" sells glass wool to its customers in roll, slab or mat configuration. Of course, environmental safety is somewhat less, but the cost of products is noticeably lower and optimal fire-fighting properties are guaranteed. The thermal conductivity is also necessary requirements. The company's line includes pressed materials that are easy to put even without the use of fasteners.

Glass wool is also supplied under the brand name URSA, which uses a significantly smaller amount of phenol in production, and in some cases got rid of it altogether. The product range includes:

plates of moderate rigidity;
products adapted for medical and children's organizations;
hydrophobic structures of increased density;
products resistant to deforming loads.

Calculations

Regardless of which particular substance is used, it is required to carefully calculate the thickness of the insulation. If you miscalculate with this indicator, you will get either an insufficient effect, or excessively high costs for the purchase of thermal protection and for working with it. When the work is entrusted to a professional team, you still need to control the measurements and calculations made by it. As practice shows, installers left without supervision, making sure that no one checks them, sooner or later they will “mistake” in their favor.

The main role in the calculations is played by indicators such as thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

Glass wool has a very high resistance to heat escape - but its shortcomings prevent the widespread use of this material. When calculating, it is worth focusing on the climatic properties of a particular area. So, in Moscow and its environs, the recommended layer of the majority good heaters does not exceed 0.2 m. If you use such a number of them in the Far North, the result will be deplorable for the residents.

The standard formula of the form δut = (R - 0.16 - δ1 / λ1 - δ2 / λ2 - δi / λi) × λut has the following components (successively):

heat resistance of structures in a particular area;
total thickness of all layers;
coefficient of thermal conductivity;
the ability of the insulation to transmit heat.

Raw materials and tools

When the type of insulation is selected, the calculations are made, it's time to get ready for work properly. Must choose necessary tools as carefully as possible, taking into account the smallest nuances.

With a dry version of insulation, "raw materials" can be considered, along with the selected thermal protection, timber or metal constructions frame being created. It is also useful to choose those that are consistent with the material. decorative materials, waterproofing films, membranes, vapor barriers.
The "wet" scheme is implemented using water-based adhesives.

Typical tools for wall and roof insulation include:

screwdriver;
guns for applying polyurethane foam;
hammers;
jigsaws for precise cutting of wood and metal;
perforator;

spatulas;
hydraulic levels;
roulettes;
metal scissors;
containers for preparing solutions and so on.

The exact set cannot be predicted in advance, because it strongly depends on the chosen technology, on the nuances of the frame house and the amount of work. In any case, it is worth trying to purchase high-quality tools and Consumables. All devices purchased specially or already on hand should be carefully checked before starting work. Otherwise, it will not be possible to guarantee the quality and safety of manipulations during insulation. In almost all cases, craftsmen benefit from a square: it is able to both mark exact right angles and measure the actual angles formed by the sides of the part.

Among all hammers, the locksmith type is the best.

It is suitable for processing any kind of surface. On the one hand, such a tool is even and allows you to strike, and on the other, it is pointed, like a chisel. If you have to dismantle building elements and structures, you need a nail puller. Divide into parts foam and other insulating, decorative elements can be done with a saw with a fine tooth. The teeth should be specially bred and honed in a special way.

For the preparation of building mixtures, only mixers with a spiral working part made from strong steel grades. Using rollers, it is easy to apply primers and various paints, even if the surface is very rough or rough. To apply the adhesive solution for the subsequent introduction of the reinforcing mesh, it is recommended to use Swiss ironing tools with teeth. The optimum tooth size is 8 x 8 or 10 x 10 mm and is determined by the manufacturer of the façade systems.

Self coating

Step-by-step instruction in any case, it requires to mount a layer that protects against moisture. The only exception is made for those situations where such protection is already on the outside (or inside). The reason is simple - bilateral blocking of water deprives it of an exit. The liquid will accumulate inside the walls and gradually destroy them.

The first step is usually to measure the external surfaces and cut the waterproofing material according to their size.

Next comes the vapor barrier. It will not be possible to get around this point even in the case when hydrophobic or substances that neutrally tolerate contact with water are used for insulation. Indeed, besides them, the “pie” includes other details that are much more sensitive to getting wet. When insulating inside and outside, it will be correct to use a special film or polyethylene foam to contain water vapor. Such materials are attached to the racks of the frames, ensuring the tightest possible pressure on the insulation.

Important: wrapping thermal protection blocks in a film is a violation of the standard scheme - until all components of the frame, without exception, are covered from water, the work cannot be considered completed.

Only when all this is finished, they begin to work with the filler itself.

At the same time, safety requirements are strictly observed, which are especially relevant when choosing mineral or glass wool.

The final step is the lining of the walls from the inside. Out of competition in terms of the sum of their qualities, there will be drywall and oriented particle boards. GCR is recommended to be installed if the frame is perfectly flat, then the outer surface will be smooth. But OSB, due to its rigidity, will cope with flaws as efficiently as possible. But in any case, this is only a preparation for a real finish.

Master classes from professionals

Master classes organized by professionals allow you to get the most recent and adequate information on all the problems of insulation and related topics. As a result of the consultation, it will become clear what the width of the frame board should be in a particular case, and how to calculate the thickness of a fundamentally new material.

Experienced craftsmen understand safety measures and storage mode, transportation of each insulating coating is better than ordinary amateur builders. Many mistakes are made when attaching structures, drawing up diagrams and determining the sequence of layers in the "pie". But communication with knowledgeable people helps to correct this situation.

When mineral wool is used, care should be taken to prevent condensation from warm rooms from getting on it. But waterproofing and vapor barrier are also fraught with many "pitfalls". The choice of material for sheathing is often dictated by tradition, personal tastes or stereotypes - but meanwhile, thoughtful design is much more pleasant. Professionals will tell you when you can use natural heaters, and when it is better to use artificial ones. It is very important to understand the compatibility of materials with each other: here, again, master classes help.

For information on which insulation keeps heat better, see the next video.

Recently, the popularity of frame houses has been steadily growing. For such a house to stand for many years, it is necessary to responsibly and seriously approach the choice of insulation.

insulate frame house necessary complex. Roofs, walls, floors and basements require thermal insulation materials with different properties.

All types of heaters can be divided into two types: synthetic and natural.

Natural heaters

TO natural insulating materials includes: moss, peat, wood, straw, and other materials of natural origin. They have been used since ancient times.

Their dignity:

low price;
availability;
environmental friendliness.

Their limitations:

very susceptible to biological attack (insects, rodents, mold, rot);
fragility;
time-consuming installation and transportation;
combustibility.

Synthetic insulation

To synthetic thermal insulation materials include: polystyrene foam, foam plastics, glass wool, mineral wool, penoizol, polyurethane foam and others. These materials appeared relatively recently.

Their dignity:

incombustibility;
high biological stability;
convenient for installation and transportation;
high thermal insulation properties.

Their limitations:

rather high price;
when burning, they emit acrid smoke;
not environmentally friendly, except for mineral wool.

Comparison of properties shows that the use of synthetic materials is much more convenient and efficient. It is these materials that are most often used in the construction of modern frame houses.

Characteristics of heaters and methods of their application

Synthetic heaters for warming a frame house are divided into two types: hard and soft. Consider and compare their main specifications.

Solid types of insulation

Solid type of insulation is produced in the form of dense, rigid slabs, which are fastened between the racks of the frame and are the basis for facade coating and waterproofing.

Styrofoam- cheap, light, but fragile and short-lived insulation. Represents the balls of the made foam polymer pressed among themselves. This material is fixed between the racks of the frame with a special glue.

Necessary very well protect against environmental influences, against fire and against rodents. The joints between the sheets are carefully foamed. Styrofoam is most suitable for wall or roof insulation. For living in winter, a layer of 200-250 mm thick is required, excluding finishing.

Main characteristics:

Plate length: 1 m.
Slab wide: 2m; 1m; 0.5 m
Plate thickness: 100mm, 50mm, 40mm, 30mm, 20mm, 10mm.
Board density: 15-35 kg/m 3 .

Expanded polystyrene or penoplex- a more functional analogue of foam. Very small foamed polymer particles in the plates of this insulation create a fairly dense and resistant to various influences. thermal insulation material.

Mounted between the racks of the frame using special glue. On top of the insulation boards can be applied decorative trim and waterproofing. This material is used for insulation of roofs, walls, floors and basements.

Foam boards have special marking depending on their purpose. For living in winter, a layer of 150-200 mm thick is required, excluding finishing.

Main characteristics:

Slab in length: 1.2 m; 2;4 m.
Plate width: 0.6 m.
Plate thickness: 150mm, 120mm 100mm, 50mm, 40mm, 30mm, 20mm.
Board density: 25-35 kg/m 3 .

Soft types of insulation

Soft insulation also fill the space between the racks of the frame, but it is impossible to apply a decorative coating or waterproofing directly to the insulation itself, because it is subject to deformation and mechanical stress. This insulation is sewn up with sheathing sheets on both sides.

Mineral wool- material from thin fibers from the melt of igneous rocks. It has a low thermal conductivity.

Produced in the form rolls or mats. It is placed without sealing between the racks of the frame and covered with sheathing on both sides. It is suitable for insulation of floors, walls and roofs. For living in winter, a layer of 200-250 mm thick is required, excluding finishing.

Main characteristics:

Mat length: 1.25 m; 7 m; 10 m
Mat width: 0.6 m; 1.2 m
Roll width: 1.2m.
Roll thickness: 50 mm.
Density: 18-35 kg/m 3 .

glass wool- material from thin fibers from molten glass. It is mounted in the same way as mineral wool and has very similar characteristics and properties.

The main difference between glass wool- shorter service life, but it is much cheaper than mineral wool.

For living in winter, a layer of thickness is required 200-250 mm, excluding finishing.

Main characteristics:

Mat length: 1.25 m; 2 m; 5 m; 7 m; 10 m
Mat width: 0.6 m; 1.2 m
Mat thickness: 150mm, 100mm, 70mm, 50mm, 40mm.
Roll length: 5m, 6m, 7m, 8m, 9m, 12m.
Roll width: 1.2m.
Roll thickness: 50 mm.
Density: 12-50 kg/m 3 .

Ecowool- environmentally friendly insulation in the form of cellulose powder and special additives. It is mounted between the cladding slabs by dry filling, dry blowing or wet-glue method. All work is performed by the manufacturer.

Sold in compressed form, in packages. This material can be used to insulate walls, ceilings and roofs. Insulation thickness for winter living 250-400 mm.

Main characteristics:

The volume of straightened cotton wool in one package: 2.5 m 3; 3 m 3; 4m 3 .
Density: 30-70 kg.

Penoizol- Styrofoam, which is produced and poured in the form of foam, between sheathing sheets, right on the construction site. It turns out seamless plates with high heat-insulating properties. Installed by the manufacturer. In this way, you can insulate the basement, roof, floors and walls. The thickness of the insulation for winter living is 120-150 mm.

Main characteristics:

Penoizol density: 5-35 kg / m 3.

polyurethane foam- insulation, which is applied to the slab-sheathing by spraying. The result is a very dense and rigid slab without seams. Today it is the most effective way of warming. In this way, you can insulate the basement, roof, floors and walls. The manufacturer installs the insulation. Thickness for winter living 120-150 mm.

Main characteristics:

Density of polyurethane foam: 5-40 kg/m 3 .

How to choose the best insulation for a frame house?

To date, there are a huge number of heaters for frame construction. All of them have different prices and physical and mechanical properties. You can choose the most suitable, based:

The thermal conductivity of the insulation, the lower it is, the better insulation retains heat.
The climatic conditions of building a house, which affect the thickness of the insulation, as well as its coefficient of thermal conductivity. How to calculate the thickness of the insulation, read the article "The thickness of the insulation for walls."
Insulation surfaces and, as a result, the density of the insulation, for floors, a heater with a high density value is suitable, which is accordingly more durable, and for walls and roofs, an increased density is not so important.

The improvement of each of these parameters leads to an increase in the cost of insulation and insulation of the house as a whole. Based on this, each owner of a frame house builds priorities prices, quality and terms of insulation, which leads him to an individual choice of insulation.

How to properly insulate a frame house with URSA TERRA, look at the video:

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Today I want to talk about how to choose a heater for a frame house. This is a specific structure, consisting of a timber frame sheathed with sheet material, so the comfort and energy efficiency of the entire building depends on the quality and efficiency of the heat-insulating layer. Therefore, special requirements are imposed on the materials used.

The specifics of the insulation of a frame dwelling

A comfortable microclimate in the room and the amount of energy required to maintain it directly depends on the heat-insulating material used for the walls of the building. And to the greatest extent this rule applies to a frame house, since the materials used in its construction have a fairly high coefficient of thermal conductivity, and their thickness leaves much to be desired.

Therefore, the only barrier to cold or heat from the outside is only a heater. At the same time, the dimensions of the walls and the material of the enclosing structures significantly limit the choice, because the thermal insulation for such a building should have several features that I described in the table below.

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material for insulation must have excellent heat-preserving properties. The lower the thermal conductivity, the thinner the insulation layer should be.. For a frame house, the optimal thickness of thermal insulation is from 10 to 15 cm. But the final decision on how much insulation to put is made depending on the climatic conditions of the area where the house is operated.
light weight	I advise you to choose a material that does not have a significant additional load on the building envelope of the house. The frame dwelling is not distinguished by increased strength anyway, so you should not exacerbate the problem by mounting heavy heaters.
Vapor permeability	The sheet materials with which the walls are sheathed pass air well. Therefore, I would advise buying a heater that does not prevent its infiltration.. This will extend the service life wooden structure and provide a comfortable microclimate for living inside with a normal level of humidity.
fire safety	A wooden house that is safe for living can only be built using non-combustible insulation that does not ignite in a fire and does not support combustion. In extreme cases, it is necessary to purchase thermal insulation containing fire retardants.
Environmental friendliness	To protect the people living in the house, I advise you to use environmentally friendly thermal insulation material that does not release toxic chemical compounds into the air, regardless of operating conditions.
Hygroscopicity	The walls of a frame house, regardless of the method of exterior decoration, are constantly exposed to atmospheric moisture (during rain and snow melt). Therefore, it is better to use waterproof insulation materials or those that do not change their technical characteristics depending on the moisture content inside.
Antiseptic	The insulation layer must be protected from the appearance of harmful microorganisms inside, which can not only worsen the effectiveness of insulation, but also have a destructive effect on building envelopes (wood is susceptible to decay). In addition, I would advise you to select a material that insects and rodents do not start inside.
Strength	For a frame house, it is very important that the insulation used retain its original dimensions throughout the entire period of operation, and its shrinkage is minimal. During construction, the distance between the racks for insulation is calculated in such a way that the material slabs fit as closely as possible to each other, without forming islands of cold.
Affordable price	Considering that the estimated cost of building a frame house is low (when compared, for example, with a brick building), insulation should also be chosen cheaper, but by no means sacrificing quality.

In the next section, I will talk about the popular types of insulation, and based on this information, you can decide for yourself which insulation is best for a frame house.

Characteristics of the materials used

Consider what kind of insulation to use for thermal insulation of a frame dwelling. In my opinion, several varieties are best suited, which are displayed in the diagram below:

Well, now let's define the most best material for work.

Basalt mats

This thermal insulation material is made from a mineral of volcanic origin - basalt. The collected raw materials are melted at a high temperature, after which ultra-thin threads are formed from the melt. In the future, mats or plates are formed from them by gluing with phenol-formaldehyde resins.

Thanks to the use of basalt and a special production technology, the material in question acquires some features, especially from the point of view of its use for thermal insulation of a frame structure.

I will describe the most important of them in more detail:

Low thermal conductivity. The insulation is a large number of thin fibers oriented in different directions and glued together with resin in such a way that there are many gaps filled with air between them.

Due to this, the material acquires a very low coefficient of thermal conductivity. The exact value of this parameter is between 0.032 and 0.048 W / (m * K) and depends on the density of the boards used. To reliably insulate a frame house, it is enough to use several layers of basalt mats with a total thickness of 10 to 15 cm.

This just corresponds to the cross section of the bars, which form the basis of the building. In other words, the insulation is completely placed inside the frame and sewn up with sheathing sheets. It is not necessary to construct an additional crate on top or inside.

Low hygroscopicity. Basalt mats can be safely attributed to the category of hygroscopic heat-insulating materials. Unlike, for example, fiberglass, insulation fibers do not absorb water. And to increase the water-repellent properties, the necessary substances are added to the resins used for bonding.
Water absorption of basalt insulation boards is no more than 2% of its own volume. In this case, the liquid that has got inside does not increase the thermal conductivity of the material and is quickly removed to the outside. For its evaporation, ventilation gaps are usually made in the outer skin of a frame house.
In some cases, the material is covered with vapor-permeable membranes, which do not allow the insulating layer to get wet during rain and prevent mat fibers from fraying.
High vapor permeability. Basalt insulation has an open structure, so it does not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. As a result, the liquid contained in the wood has the ability to evaporate freely during the operation of the building, and the humidity level in the living quarters is automatically adjusted.

The vapor permeability coefficient of mineral wool (0.49 mg / (m * h * Pa)) is much higher than, for example, plywood (0.02), which is usually used for wall cladding frame house. Therefore, the insulation will not become a bottleneck, limiting the "breathing" of the building.

High fire safety. Basalt fibers are made from a mineral of volcanic origin, therefore they have a very high melting point (over 1000 degrees Celsius).
According to the requirements of fire safety standards (NPB number 244-97), mineral mats made of basalt fiber are classified as non-combustible heaters. They do not ignite when exposed to an open flame and limit the further spread of fire.
What is very important, during the burning of the walls of the dwelling, the insulation does not emit toxic smoke, which can harm human health and make it difficult to evacuate the inhabitants of the house.
Mineral wool, due to its open structure and chaotic arrangement of fibers, perfectly absorbs structural (shock) and airborne noise. This is very important for a frame house, the enclosing structures of which do not differ in thickness.

Another important point– reduction of the reverberation time of sound waves. In other words, mineral wool insulation protects the inhabitants of the dwelling not only from external noise, but also limits the propagation of sound waves through internal ones.

High strength. Basalt mats can withstand very heavy load. At 10% deformation, the insulation has a compressive strength of up to 80 kPa.
The special charm of the material is that it retains its geometric dimensions throughout the entire period of operation, regardless of temperature and humidity. Installed inside the walls, it does not shrink and does not fall off, forming gaps through which heat flows.
Usually, the step of the racks for insulation is calculated in advance and brought into line with the size of those mineral mats that will be used in the construction of the house.
High antiseptic and chemical resistance. The material is not subject to biocorrosion, regardless of the humidity of the air and the way it is used. Inside the mineral mats and, accordingly, the frame walls, mold and fungi do not start, which can destroy the wood.

The advantage of mineral wool is that its fibers are not destroyed by mice and insects.. Therefore, I recommend using such a heater for construction country houses and similar suburban dwellings.

The heat-insulating material tolerates contact with many chemicals well and does not create an acidic environment that promotes corrosion of metal elements used during the construction of a house using frame technology.

High environmental friendliness. The insulation considered in this section is made from gabbro-basalt, therefore, by definition, it cannot harm the environment and human health.
However, formaldehyde resin is used for bonding resins, which during operation can release toxic substances. To reduce the negative impact of this substance on the human body, mineral mats are subjected to thermal effects during production. The level of formaldehyde emission fully complies with the established standards.

Moreover, with use, the possible harm from mineral wool decreases.

I believe that mineral wool - the best way for home insulation. The only limitation is the rather high price of the material. Therefore, for people who want to save as much as possible, I offer another option for insulation - foam.

foam boards

This insulation material is made from polystyrene by foaming it with steam. As a result, a large number of thin-walled polymer granules are formed, filled inside with atmospheric gas. Plates are formed from them by the non-pressing method, which are used for insulation. various buildings, including frame houses.

As in the previous case, I will focus on the description of the important technical characteristics of this material:

Low thermal conductivity. Styrofoam is a material that is 98% air and the rest is very thin walls that hold the gas in place. Due to this, it acquires a very low coefficient of thermal conductivity - less than that of mineral wool.
The thermal conductivity coefficient of the material is from 0.028 to 0.034 W/(m*K). In other words, the heat-preserving properties of the frozen polystyrene foam are quite enough to save heat inside the frame house in winter and prevent it from overheating in summer.
If we take a block foam plastic with a density of 34 kg per cubic meter, then the sufficient thickness of the insulating layer for central Russia will be 10 cm, which fits well into the standard section of the timber used in the construction of the frame.
Low hygroscopicity. Given the closed cell structure of the foam, it absorbs liquid very poorly. When wetting the surface of the material, it absorbs no more than 4% of the liquid during the first 24 hours. After that, water absorption stops completely.

Two conclusions follow from this:

Firstly, the material does not require additional protection in the form waterproofing membrane, and its performance does not deteriorate as it gets wet.
Secondly, the heat-insulating layer is able to withstand a huge number of freezing and thawing cycles, since there is no water inside it, which, during crystallization, destroys the structure of the material.

Low vapor permeability. According to this indicator, the insulation differs sharply from the mineral wool described above. Its vapor permeability coefficient is 0.05 mg / (m * h * Pa), which is comparable to monolithic concrete. Therefore, the heat-insulating layer sharply limits air infiltration, although it does not stop it completely.
When using polystyrene foam to insulate a frame house, I advise you to install the insulation in such a way that the frame of the dwelling has contact with environment, that is, moisture was removed from the wood during operation.
It is also desirable to equip a reliable house inside the house. ventilation system, otherwise water vapor generated as a result of human activity will accumulate inside.
High fire hazard. According to the regulatory documents regulating the fire safety of building materials, polystyrene foam belongs to the category of very combustible materials (G4). Combined with the wood used for construction, this makes the dwelling very dangerous to operate.

The problem is aggravated by the fact that in the event of a fire, the insulation spreads the flame further and emits black poisonous smoke, which limits visibility, makes it difficult to evacuate people and eliminate the source of fire, and can also cause serious poisoning.

To avoid at least part of the negative consequences, I recommend using a material marked with the letter “C” for work, which contains fire retardants that contribute to self-extinguishing of the flame. Well, no one has canceled the processing of wooden parts of the house with fire-fighting impregnations.

High soundproof properties. Styrofoam well protects the premises of a frame building from structural noise, but poorly absorbs sound waves propagating through the air.
If you want to achieve complete silence inside your home, it is necessary to use additional material with a high sound absorption coefficient in addition to foam. As an example, I can give foam rubber (polyvinyl chloride foam) or mineral wool.
High strength. Despite its brittleness to fracture, the material has an excellent coefficient of compressive strength. Like mineral wool, insulation of sufficient density is able to withstand a force equal to 80 kPa at 10% surface deformation.

Another important point is dimensional stability. Once installed between the racks of the frame, the insulation retains its width, length and thickness throughout the entire service life.

The only feature is a little elasticity. The insulation cannot be bent and placed between the frame, so it is important to carefully observe the dimensions when installing the beam or cutting the foam boards.

High antiseptic and good chemical strength. Studies have long proven that it is impossible for microorganisms to exist on the surface and inside the foam. That is, it is not necessary to be afraid of rotting and molding of the insulation layer.
But the foam is subject to destruction by rodents. Mice like to gnaw through the material and make nests, although they themselves do not feed on it. Therefore, when using the material, I recommend that you additionally provide for the protection of the material.
The considered insulation well tolerates the effects of most chemical substances used in construction. Antiseptic and fire impregnations, as well as (with the exception of oil), which are used in the construction of frame houses, do not destroy the material.
An important point - the foam should be reliably protected from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Direct sunlight can destroy the material.
Environmental friendliness. The insulation described in this section, subject to the conditions for its installation in a frame structure and subsequent operation, does not harm human health in any way.

As you can see, polystyrene foam is suitable for insulating a frame house, but with some reservations. And I would advise using it only if the cost of the material is the determining factor in choosing for you.

Polyurethane foam

This is a porous material resulting from chemical reaction two components, which occurs immediately before applying the insulation to the heat-insulated surface.

I consider polyurethane foam separately due to the fact that it is almost impossible to use it for self-insulation of a home:

firstly, it is necessary to purchase or rent a spraying machine with a compressor;
secondly, you need to be able to work with it.

But no one bothers me to tell you about the features of this heater. Perhaps this will help you make a choice in favor of innovative polyurethane foam, and not obsolete, but no less popular mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Low thermal conductivity. When applying polyurethane foam to the treated surfaces, it is possible to control the density of the material. The thermal conductivity also depends on it, which is between 0.019 and 0.035 W / (m * K).

Therefore, the cured polyurethane foam fits perfectly into the rule I have deduced that all the insulation should be placed in the space between the sheathing sheets of the frame structure. It is enough to place a layer of polyurethane foam 10 cm thick in the gap between the frame bars so as not to have problems with unproductive losses of thermal energy during the heating season.

Low hygroscopicity. Like foam, polyurethane foam has a very low water absorption coefficient. The frozen layer of insulation can absorb no more than 2% of its own volume, which is even less than that of other cellular insulation.
To further enhance the water-repellent properties of the foam, castor oil is added to one of its components.
In other words, it is not necessary to take any measures to isolate polyurethane foam from moisture. However, this does not mean that the heat-insulating layer does not require external decorative finishing. After all, this substance is destroyed by other natural factors.
Low vapor permeability. The material is among the leaders in this indicator. The vapor permeability coefficient of polyurethane foam with a density of, for example, 40 kg per cubic meter is not more than 0.05 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, after solidification, the foam completely stops air circulation through frame walls.

A particular danger (when compared with polystyrene) is that when sprayed with foam, the elements of the frame of the building are covered with foam, so the moisture inside the not completely dry beams is locked inside and can cause premature destruction of the building.

To avoid this, when building a frame dwelling, I advise you to use only well-dried lumber and provide ventilation for wooden parts.

High fire safety. Despite the fact that, like foam, PPU is made of polymer components, it belongs to the category of slow-burning, self-extinguishing and flame-retardant materials. Increased fire resistance of insulating foam is given by special additives.
The wooden parts of the frame house treated with polyurethane foam receive additional fire protection. In special cases, you can use a specialized, fire-resistant, polyurethane foam, a layer of which is applied on top of the main one. However, it costs much more and this method of insulation can be used only in rooms where there is a high risk of fire (furnace in a bathhouse or a boiler room in a house).
High soundproof properties. The ability of polyurethane foam to absorb sound waves directly depends on the rigidity of the frame on which it is applied, as well as the density of the material itself.

In any case, sprayed insulation protects the interior living quarters from structural impact noise and partially shields from airborne sounds. There is a special highly elastic polyurethane foam that can act as a reliable sound insulator.

Strength. A material of a certain density (over 35 kg per cubic meter) has such high strength characteristics and resistance to compression that it can be treated on top with a thin layer of cement plaster.
An important property of the considered insulation is the almost zero shrinkage coefficient. When applied, the foam increases in size, and after the end of the chemical reaction, it hardens and retains its size until the end of operation. Moreover, the geometric parameters of the insulation are not affected by the ambient temperature and humidity.
Plus PPU also lies in the fact that when applied inside the frame structure, it fits snugly to the surface and fills all the cracks, defects and irregularities. As a result, the appearance of cold bridges, which reduce the energy efficiency of the building, is excluded.
Antiseptic and chemical resistance. Like mineral wool, polyurethane foam is neutral to biological damaging factors. Mold and fungus, as well as other harmful microorganisms, do not appear on the surface of the insulation. But unlike polystyrene, mice don't like polyurethane foam.

With regard to chemical resistance, the insulation foam is not damaged by chemical solutions contained in other building materials. Due to low vapor permeability and chemical neutrality, the insulation reliably protects the metal fasteners of the frame structure from damage.

However, polyurethane foam has an inherent disadvantage of foam - poor resistance to ultraviolet radiation. The frozen insulating layer must be protected from the sun by the outer skin.

Environmental friendliness. After polymerization, the foam has an almost zero level of emission of harmful substances. However, during spraying, the material emits harmful substances, so it is necessary to work with it only in a special suit and carefully protect the respiratory and vision organs.

If for some reason you do not want to use mineral wool, I advise you to try polyurethane foam. But to obtain a high-quality result, it is better to seek help from special companies that deal with thermal insulation of buildings using polyurethane foam.

Summary

Based on the considered characteristics of heat-insulating materials, you can independently decide which insulation to choose for a wooden frame house. With your own hands, the instructions presented in the video in this article will help to warm up such a dwelling.

And what do you think, what is the best material to use for thermal insulation of a frame house? You can leave your thoughts on this issue in the comments.

Insulation is a necessary component of any residential building. A large temperature difference is the main reason why you need to choose this material very carefully. The comfort of living in the house will depend on the right decision, especially in the coldest and hottest seasons. To make the best choice will help information about the characteristics of popular methods of thermal decoration of the house.

Insulation for the walls of a frame house - what functions does it perform

Almost half of the heat supplied by the heating system is lost due to poor quality wall cladding. In order to make it warmer in winter, we simply turn on the boiler harder, and the temperature becomes comfortable again. A caring and practical owner will definitely think about good thermal insulation.

The benefits it provides:

saving gas fuel, leaving for heating water in the heating system;
effective sound insulation;
no need for air conditioning in the summer;
constant comfortable temperature;
increase the service life of the frame and the "stuffing" of walls, roofs and floors.

It's hard to believe, but it is the insulation for the frame house that gives all this. The heat will not go outside the room, which means the heating boiler will operate at minimum power. You will save on fuel. Walls with a dense filler will delay the noise coming from the side of the road and the street, even if the house is located near the highway, it will be quiet and calm in it. In summer, the heat will not pass in the dwelling - you can do without air conditioning. With an optimal microclimate inside the wall, the filler and load-bearing components will be protected from premature destruction.

The best insulation for a frame house - types, properties, characteristics

Before going to the building materials store, analyze such components as:

what state is it in;
terrain characteristics, climatic conditions;
your experience in construction works ah - if you decide to insulate your home yourself;
the budget that can be allocated to purchase the necessary materials.

The specificity of the structure of the frame house is that it is completely made of wood. On the one hand, such a cottage is quickly built and environmentally friendly. On the other hand, the wooden base is not able to retain heat. The entire load falls on the heater. The better to insulate a frame house and what you should pay attention to when choosing a material:

Heat-preserving properties. The material must have low thermal conductivity. The smaller its coefficient, the smaller the thickness will be the width of the insulation sheet. For a frame structure, the optimal value is in the range from 10 to 15 cm. This is suitable for the middle band. The further north, the greater the thickness, and vice versa.
Weight. The frame house is not able to withstand heavy weight loads, so you should not choose heavy materials for its sheathing and insulation. Lightweight items are easier to install.
Vapor permeability. The life of a wooden structure will be significantly extended if you choose a heater that allows air to pass through. The walls of the frame are usually sheathed with sheet materials that "breathe" well. Properly selected filler will provide good infiltration and a normal indoor climate. If excess moisture comes out of the house, then its level will always be normal. You do not need to additionally ventilate the rooms.
Environmental friendliness. Living in a house will be safe if you use environmentally friendly materials for its construction. The health of the residents will depend on what kind of insulation is inside the wall.
Hygroscopicity. Regardless of the method of exterior decoration of the building, its "stuffing" will be exposed to moisture contained in the atmosphere. The direct culprits are rain and snow. Choose waterproof materials or those that will not change their characteristics due to water on them. Actual for areas where atmospheric humidity is high.
Strength. Insulation for the frame structure must retain its original shape and dimensions. If shrinkage is minimal, then cold will not get inside the room. During installation, the dimensions of the insulation boards are calculated so that they fit together as tightly as possible.
Price. This figure depends on your budget. How to insulate a frame house if the amount of funds is limited? The main rule - do not take the cheapest. This will lead to loss of money in the future.

Look at the characteristics of the most popular heaters and choose what works best for your application.

Basalt mat or mineral wool

Basalt is composed of minerals of volcanic origin. First, they are melted, then ultra-thin threads are obtained, which are glued together with phenol-formaldehyde resin. Slabs or mats are formed from the resulting mass.

What is interesting about basalt:

has very low thermal conductivity. This indicator provides the air between the fibers;
due to the resin contained in it, it does not absorb water;
open structure does not interfere with normal air infiltration;
the mineral from which the cotton wool is made burns only when a temperature of 1000 degrees is reached;
absorbs air and impact noise;
has antiseptic and chemically resistant properties, is not subject to biocorrosion, mold or fungus will never start here;
very strong in compression, retains its geometry throughout the entire period of use, does not fall off inside the wall and does not shrink;
environmentally safe.

Minus mineral wool in its high cost. Among the options for warming the frame of the house, it is considered one of the the best materials.

Styrofoam - inexpensive and convenient

It is obtained by foaming polystyrene with steam and under high temperature. Styrofoam consists of thin-walled polymer granules, which are filled with atmospheric gas inside. In construction, it is used in the form of slabs of various configurations and sizes. Advantages:

Since this insulation is 98% air, its thermal conductivity is lower than that of basalt wool. For located in middle lane, several layers with a total thickness of 10 cm are enough. Choose foam with a density of 34 kg/m3.
The closed cell structure inside the foam does not allow moisture to pass inside. The total water index will never exceed 4%. During construction work, the material does not need to be covered with films from the outside - it will not warp or become damp if it rains.
The material does not deform inside the wall, despite the fact that it is quite fragile for fracture.
Blocks out noise.
Mildew resistant.
It is inexpensive. If you are looking for a budget option with good characteristics, it is best to insulate with foam.

The heat-insulating layer of foam plastic withstands freezing and thawing in unlimited quantities. This does not affect its condition in any way, because water, which usually destroys the structure during crystallization, is almost absent here.

Styrofoam does not conduct air. Its vapor permeability coefficient is comparable to monolithic concrete. In order for the walls of the frame to breathe and release moisture from wooden beams, they do not need to be closed tightly with plates. In a house with foam insulation, it is necessary to arrange a good ventilation system.

The disadvantage is destructibility under the influence of sunlight, a high level of flammability. This can be dealt with by treating the plates with protective compounds.

Polyurethane - a new word in the field of wall insulation

Building technology does not stand still. A new method of insulation has appeared - with the help of polyurethane foam. It is obtained in the process of a chemical reaction of the components that are interconnected using a special installation, right before application. PPU is applied by experienced specialists; during operation, a special spraying unit equipped with a compressor is used.

Positive traits:

To date, PPU is the leader in low thermal conductivity. During application, it can be adjusted.
Compared to foam, the material is able to absorb only 2% of moisture from its volume. To enhance the water-repellent properties, castor oil is added to the composition.
Does not burn thanks to special additives.
Doesn't let noise through.
It has a high level of strength at a density above 35 kg/m3. On top of the PPU, it is enough just to process it with plaster, because. shrinkage factor is zero. When applied, the foam first expands, fills the space and hardens. Ideally keeps geometry for all time of operation.
Ecologically pure.

The disadvantages of the latest material include low vapor permeability. The foam applied to the frame walls completely blocks the air circulation with the street. The frame should not be foamed tightly - the moisture inside the tree should evaporate. If you completely cover everything with foam, then the water will be locked inside the material. This will lead to premature destruction of the building. Before working with polyurethane foam, all wooden components must be well dried.

Which insulation option is right for you? Weigh all the pros and cons, visit hardware stores, look at how the materials look, compare prices. Take your time, study the characteristics again, this will help you make the right decision.