Lay tiles on the wooden floor in the bathroom. Tips for laying tiles on a wooden floor

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

base under tile most often it is a cement screed, but sometimes for various reasons it cannot be done. Is it possible in this case to lay tiles on a wooden base? And if so, how to do it, because wood and tiles are poorly compatible materials? The answer will be this: it is possible, but only if the surface is carefully prepared and a special technology is followed. Let's find out how to lay tiles in the bathroom on wooden floors with your own hands in accordance with all the rules.

The nuances of laying tiles on a wooden base

The tree is subject to deformation, it can dry out and swell, and these properties do not at all contribute to the creation of high-quality and durable tiled flooring. Due to the lack of static, the glue will crack, the tile will lag behind the surface. Therefore, it is necessary to create an insulating damping layer or to give the base greater rigidity.

When it comes to wooden floors in the bathroom, it is important to take care of protection from moisture, which leads to the formation of mold and mildew, rotting boards, and wood deformation. Ceramics is a reliable protection against moisture, if you properly prepare the base, and then process the seams with high quality.

After installing tiles on a wooden base, you need to be prepared for the following problems, which can only be eliminated before laying the finish coat:

deflection of the surface with a step between the lags of more than 0.5 m or with a subfloor thickness of less than 20 mm;
backlog of tiles from the base;
a creak, from which a layer of ceramics will not relieve.

We will analyze the process of preparing the base and laying the tiles in stages.

Tile is not placed on a dilapidated floor, since the creak will not be eliminated, and the tiled floor will always be at risk.

Preparation procedure wooden base:

A complete dismantling is carried out with the removal of coatings, finishing and subfloor. Disassembly is time consuming, but must be done for good results.
The base is leveled.
The dismantled floors are treated with a deep penetration antiseptic and flame retardant. Layers are applied several times with complete drying. If the ceiling is concrete, it is necessary to treat the surface with a primer and putty the cracks.

The sheet piles are dismantled and replaced if wear is found.

The distance between the lags should not exceed 0.5 m. The tree may not withstand the load and the floor will sag. If this distance is greater, it is necessary to add logs, the optimal step is 0.4 m.

In the presence of distortions, the structure is leveled with a screed or by using linings for logs.

Waterproofing should be laid under the logs: roofing material, polyethylene or special films that do not allow moisture to pass through and prevent the formation of condensate on the surface.

The space between the base and the lags is filled with fine expanded clay. It serves as a heat and sound insulator, and also absorbs excess moisture. A gap of 5 cm is left on top for ventilation. It is necessary to ensure the release of air from the underground space.
The basis for the tile is a board or thick waterproof plywood. Lacquer or paint is removed from old surfaces. A gap of 3-5 mm is left between the boards to compensate for deformations from moisture. The floor is leveled with a grinder, the cracks are puttied.

Creating an insulating layer

The rigidity of the screed or tile adhesive is much higher than that of wood used as a base. Therefore, between the tile and the floor there is a layer that compensates for the movement of wood, and also forms a waterproofing layer.

When using a special multifunctional film, the shock-absorbing layer should be placed with the hard side against the tiles, and the elastic side against the boards. For them to breathe, the material must allow steam and air to pass through, but block the penetration of moisture.

A damper against the movement of wood can be an elastic substrate made of glue, on which the tile is attached.

Intermediate layer between tiles and wood: options

It is not recommended to lay tiles directly on a wooden floor. The floor covering may warp and crack. Under the ceramic tiles there must be a rigid base, which is used as one of the following materials:

plywood, OSB;
self-leveling compound;
gypsum fiber.

Preparing plywood and edged boards

When laying tiles on wood without additional stabilization of the base, a special adhesive with elastic properties will act as a layer that will compensate for fluctuations in the parameters of wood, which remain after hardening. Compositions of Lacrysil, Liokol, Kreps, Ceresit are suitable. Before applying the adhesive, grinding and sealing the seams with putty will be required.

Laying plywood or OSB boards on boards will increase the reliability of the base, although it is recommended to use the same epoxy-polyurethane composition as glue.

self-leveling floor

For a tree, dry self-levelling mixtures compatible with it are selected. They do not contain casein, a substance that destroys the structure of the tree, and there are fibrous additives to improve adhesion.

The perimeter is pre-pasted with a damper tape to the height of the fill and tiles.
The prepared mixture is applied to the thoroughly cleaned floor. The layer thickness is 2.5–5 mm.

While the composition is liquid, air bubbles are removed from it using spiked rollers.

Tiles on such a base are laid in the same way as on a regular screed.

Dry screed (GVL)

First, gypsum fiber is laid on the boards, and tiles are mounted on it. There are no wet processes near the tree at all, which prevents it from getting wet. The ideal option is.

GVL slabs are laid on a flat subfloor with offset adjacent strips in a checkerboard pattern.
They are connected to each other using locks with glue or sealant applied to the protruding parts.
After laying each block, gypsum fiber sheets are attached to the floor with self-tapping screws.
Before fixing the tiles, a primer is applied to the GVL surface, which must be compatible with the composition of the adhesive.

The process of laying tiles on wood flooring has changed a lot in recent decades. If earlier tiles were laid on top of wood on cement mixed with sand, and such a mixture heavily loaded the wood base, today everything has become easier. Here is the step by step workflow for different options foundation state. The amount of work and, of course, their cost depends on the quality of the foundation.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor - scheme

Case 1. If the wood floor is in good condition

We inspect and process the surface under the tile - the base must be rigid. We check the boards, fix the floor, eliminating the creak. We treat the surface with a sanitary composition from mold.

We lay a waterproofing layer: PVC film or roofing material with bitumen.

The prepared surface is covered with sheets of gypsum fiber. They are screwed to the floor with screws. Further, directly laying ceramics on GVL. Drywall must be moisture resistant. You need to lay it apart, then compress it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter, step 15 cm.

We glue GVL at the joints with special glue, drill arbitrary holes for ventilation, prime GVL (deep penetration primer) and let it dry.

We apply glue suitable for working with drywall on the finished surface and lay the tiles as on a regular surface.

Laying tiles: prepare the tools, dilute the dry adhesive mixture. Now you need to choose the most illuminated corner and apply glue to a small area. Lay the tile on top, not forgetting the crosses, press it firmly to the surface. Tap the tile with a rubber mallet to remove excess adhesive. Check the horizontal laying level. After completion of work, wipe the ceramic coating from the adhesive. The seams are overwritten in a couple of days, when the solution dries. Crosses are removed first.

Case 2. How to lay tiles if there are only logs and the floor is rotten

If the floor is rotten or the boards are worn out, you need to replace them and then lay the ceramics.

Remove the old top layer (linoleum, parquet board etc.), remove the middle layer - chipboard (there may be DSP / plywood, meaning any coating), then we remove the plank surface with a nail puller, which is attached directly to the logs.

We check the bearing bars for integrity, cover them with a moisture-proof composition, set them according to the level. Between the lags we lay a waterproofing layer (film, coating), leaving allowances.

We pour expanded clay on the coating between the lags, with a layer equal to the height of the lag, fasten the boards on top. This guarantees heat and good sound insulation.

We attach the boards to the screws across the bars, always remembering the gaps, on average, 5-10mm. Then we foam the cracks at the joints. We cover the base with a hydrosubstrate, lay the GVL, and then everything, as in the first case.

Case 3. Screed instead of an old wooden floor

This is the most expensive option for preparing the base for tiles - more details here - floor screed with expanded clay. If it is possible to make a screed, instead of the previous coating that has become unusable, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

we dismantle old materials to the cement itself. We coat the joints of the walls and ceilings, covering them with a sand-cement mortar.

we mark the space, exposing the "beacons", priming the concrete.

we fill the space to the very top of the beacons with a screed (it can be pure concrete, a sand-cement mixture is also used in the ratio: 1 to 3). One batch from 15 liters.

in the case when the screed is planned to be thick, expanded clay is backfilled between the layers (the height can reach up to two-thirds according to the level indicated by the beacons). After a day and a half, clean the base so that the expanded clay on the surface does not interfere, and pour again.

after 3 days, you need to prime the screed or use a self-leveling mortar.

Case 4. There is chipboard on the board base, the floor surface can be used

Chipboard can become the basis for tiles if processed. For this:

The butt points where the wall and the DC-plate meet are foamed.

The top of the plate must be oiled or impregnated twice with a special compound.

We process the DS-plate with latex sealant, fixing the paint grid there, let it dry. Then we fix the mesh with self-tapping screws, ensuring a snug fit to the DS-plate.

It is necessary to cover the mesh with the composition: part of the water + a couple of parts of sand and a couple of parts of liquid glass.

Then follows the usual laying of ceramics.

09-11-2014

Ceramic or tile as a covering for walls and floors is very popular. This finish is beautiful, durable, easy to wash. Laying tiles is not difficult, with some skills you can do it yourself. Especially common is the tiling of domestic premises, kitchens, bathrooms, that is, those places where maintaining cleanliness is especially important.

Laying tiles with your own hands will cost much less than the work of a master.

Problems, on a cement-concrete base, in the presence of modern adhesives, grouts, laying tools, do not exist.

What do you recommend to owners? wooden houses Deciding to ceramic tile your wood floor or tile your bathroom walls?

Why is it difficult to lay tiles on wood?

The question of whether it is possible to reliably lay tiles on a wooden base causes a lot of controversy among specialists and amateurs. The fact is that wood is a living material, under the influence of atmospheric moisture or gravity, the wooden coating slightly changes its size, deforms, and then, when the action of deforming factors ceases, returns to its original form.

If you lay a tile, for example, directly on the floor boards, then it will surely burst or rebound over time, unable to withstand constant, albeit small, stretching and compression. But there is a way out. Craftsmen have developed several rules for laying tiles on wooden surfaces with minimal risk. These rules take into account different types tiles and various surfaces.

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How to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

Do not lay ceramic tiles on a new wooden floor. This process can be carried out only after 2-3 years, when the intensive shrinkage of wooden structures ends.
To prepare the base for ceramic tiles, you need to create a flat, almost motionless surface. This can be achieved various methods, depending on which floor is available. If the boards are deformed, and the underground space is small, then it is better to remove the old boards, fill the gaps between the lags with insulation and make a high-quality cement-concrete screed.
If this option is not suitable, you need to revise the wooden structures, replace the destroyed logs and boards and impregnate all the wood special means from decay. Then, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard, OSB are laid on top of the old floor covering. They are attached to the old boards with self-tapping screws. In order for the surface to be the same in height, the laying of sheets is constantly controlled using a level, if necessary, enclose wooden slats. The joints between the sheets are insulated with silicone sealant.
A so-called technological gap is left between the walls and the new coating. Wood-shaving materials, although to a lesser extent than boards, swell with increasing air humidity, so the base under the tile is made “floating”, and after laying, the gap is closed with a plinth.
Some experts advise making the base for tiles not from wood chip products, but from sheets of moisture-resistant drywall or its variety of gypsum fiber boards. This material is more environmentally friendly, absolutely not subject to deformation and decay.
A novelty in the construction industry are polymer floor leveling compounds. They are also used to create a base for ceramic tiles. As indicated in the instructions, it is possible to use them on wooden surfaces. Only if you are going to make a leveling layer of more than 10 mm, a plastic reinforcing mesh should be laid on the floor.
After the substrate has been prepared, it is sanded if necessary, treated with a primer compatible with the tile adhesive and allowed to dry. Then the tiles are glued on. Moreover, most experts advise using a special polyurethane two-component adhesive composition, which is characterized by elasticity.

Tiled flooring for the kitchen and bathroom is practical and durable, but is it possible to lay tiles on existing wooden floors without resorting to large-scale construction work? The answer will be positive. In this article, we will study in detail all the nuances of the "cooperation" of such different materials.

According to its characteristics wooden coverings at first glance, they are completely incompatible with tiles. Wood during operation is not static. Even floors made from well-dried and treated boards still shrink for another 2-3 years.

Daily temperature and atmospheric fluctuations lead to the fact that the surface "plays" - either expanding or shrinking. These processes go unnoticed by a person, which cannot be said about the tile: it can peel off, crumble, literally burst at the seams.

In order to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to study the causes that affect the deformation of the ceramic coating and, if possible, eliminate them.

The main factor in the stability of the tile coating

Much attention when laying tiles is paid to the preparatory work. The aesthetic appearance of the finished coating and its further performance characteristics depend on how well the surface is prepared and leveled.

We have already found out that wood is not a static material, so our main task is to make a universal surface that will be the basis for laying. This basis should "reconcile" the two different coatings, then the main factor in the stability of the tiled coating will be observed - static and strength.

Advice! You can not lay tiles on "fresh" floors - the shrinkage period is at least 2-3 years from the time of installation.

Preparatory work: checking and

Before creating a stable base for tiles, you need to revise your wood flooring. Then create a multi-layer cake from existing and additional materials, which will preserve the solidity of the floor covering, provide ventilation to the wooden parts of the structure and minimize the load on the wood.

Important! Indiscriminately wooden structure we can't do it. Regardless of the external condition of the upper boards, they must be removed and the damaged elements replaced. If necessary, shorten the laying step of the lag and align them horizontally with a level. Antiseptic treatment of all wooden structures is required.

Stages of work

Step #1 We remove the wooden coating, having previously cleaned it of paintwork.

Important! If the condition of the boards is deplorable, skip this step, they are still unusable.

There are three ways to speed up the process: chemical, thermal and mechanical. They are all quite time consuming, so choose the one that is acceptable to you.

The chemical method consists in treating the floors with a special reagent that dissolves varnish or paint.
Thermal method - heating the surface with a building hair dryer. Thereafter paintwork removed with a spatula.
The mechanical method of removing varnish or paint is done using a power tool: a grinder with a special nozzle, and then with a grinder or just sandpaper, the surface is sanded.

Step #2 We check the condition of the beams and the log.

Replacement of damaged items is required. After that, horizontal alignment is carried out.

Step #3 Antiseptic treatment.

Do not spare money for this procedure - good antifungal products are not cheap. It is necessary to process strictly according to the instructions, observing the time interval and the number of coatings. Perform the next step only after complete drying.

Step #4 Expanded clay insulation.

Expanded clay should be taken small fraction. The entire space between the lags is filled. For natural ventilation, a gap of 5 cm is left (the distance from the bottom of the log to the insulation).

Indicators	10-20 mm	5-10 mm	0-5 mm
Bulk density, kg/m3	280-370	300-400	500-700
Crushing strength, N/mm2 (MPa)	1-1,8	1,2-2	3-4
Grading, %	4	8	0
Frost resistance 20 cycles, weight loss of gravel, %	0,4-2	0,2-1,2	not regulated
Percentage of crushed particles, %	3-10	3-10	No
Thermal conductivity, W/m*K	0,0912	0,0912	0,1099
Water absorption, mm	250	250	290
Specific effective activity of natural radionuclides, Bq/kg	270	270	290

Step #5 Rough coating laying.

If batten in good condition, it can be used as a rough coating. We fix it with galvanized screws and putty. A gap of 1 cm must be left around the perimeter, which is filled with mounting foam.

When the board is unsuitable for further use, then moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard treated with special impregnation will play the role of a rough base. Sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, technological gaps are processed with foam.

Now you need to create another layer of "sandwich" - a strong and stable surface on which the tiles will be directly glued. There are three ways to create a base:

Express method;
"Dry" leveling method;
Cement-concrete screed or "wet" method.

Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider them in detail.

Express method of surface preparation

This method is best used on wood floors in good condition or with minor imperfections.

You will need sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, which will be fastened with screws to draft boards in two rows. GKVL can be glued to wood using polyurethane glue. Its two-component composition is strong enough, so the glued sheets will practically not be affected by wood.

Main advantages:

fast and cheap installation of the structure;
good resistance to temperature fluctuations of wood.

Important! At the stage preparatory work described in the relevant section, when leveling the surface using the express method, you can not fill up the insulation. This will significantly reduce the time to complete the work and reduce the cost of their cost.

Main stages.

"Dry" method of leveling the surface

The key task of the method is to create the most stable draft layer from moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard, OSB. These wood waste materials are more static than wood due to the binders used during manufacture.

Advantages:

increase insulating properties due to the laying of an additional layer of insulation;
execution time is significantly reduced due to the absence of work requiring technological waiting.

Flaws:

this method of leveling the surface involves raising the height of the floor, which is undesirable in rooms with initially low ceilings.

If the ceiling height allows you to use this method, then keep in mind that the difference between the leveled and unfinished surface will be visible. You can visually hide this nuance by equipping a small step or threshold.

Step-by-step instruction

First stage. Laying the insulating layer.

After the floorboards have been treated with latex impregnations, a masking net is laid and attached to them. Along the perimeter of the room, it is overlapped to a height slightly higher than the level of the future screed, and is fixed on top with a wide edge tape.

Second phase. Pouring dry mix.

The dry leveling mixture consists of fine fraction expanded clay, expanded clay sand and other additives. The mixture must be carefully and evenly distributed over the surface.

Third stage. Laying sheets of chipboard or plywood.

The material is laid in two rows in the " brickwork»: The seams between the sheets must not match.

Fourth stage. Sanding and priming.

Sheets of plywood or other wood-based panels must be sanded along the seams. The joints are filled with sealant and covered with a primer layer.

"Wet" leveling method

The method of leveling the surface with a "wet" method is similar to the usual preparation of the screed before laying the tiles. The difference is that the layer of leveling compound is much smaller than usual, since the load force on wooden coatings is limited by their characteristics.

For pouring, self-leveling polymer or cement-sand mixtures are used. Choose products from trusted manufacturers so that the performance of your floor does not deteriorate in the end.

Advantage: with this alignment method, you will get a “floating” screed that will be resistant to the “whims” of wooden structures.

Main limitations- this is increased labor costs and an increase in floor height. The financial component of the issue is higher than in the previous methods.

Stages of work.

Step #1. Strengthening the wooden structure.

If the distance between the lags is more than 500 mm, then the preparatory work will include, in addition to revision and replacement of damaged parts, strengthening the structure with additional wooden beams.

Step number 2. Install the intermediate flooring from the floorboard.

For this, you can use boards that were in use, if their strength leaves no doubt, and the thickness is at least 40 mm. The boards are attached to the logs with a gap for ventilation (10 mm).

Step number 3. Installation of the main flooring.

Chipboards or plywood are attached perpendicular to the draft boards. The thickness of the material must be at least 12 mm. Laying method - "brickwork" with gaps between the plates of 2 - 3 mm.

Step number 4. Waterproofing.

We create a good insulating layer of paper, oiled or impregnated with paraffin, a thick polyethylene film. It is necessary to carefully line the entire floor surface, as well as the perimeter of the room to a height along the wall of 10 cm and above. The material is overlapped and carefully fastened with double-sided tape. An insulating wide tape is glued around the perimeter.

Film floor waterproofing

Step number 4. Fill in the self-leveling compound. The layer thickness should not exceed 10 mm.

Prepare the mixture according to the instructions on the package. Distribute by gender. After the composition has hardened, you can start gluing the tiles.

Some builders, in order to save money, have gotten used to making floor levelers on their own. For its preparation, purified sand and liquid glass are used in a ratio of 2: 2. The mixture is brought to the desired consistency with purified water.

Name. Short description	Packing kg	Consumption kg/mm/m2	Price	Strength MPa	Layer thickness in mm
ALFAPOL VP - self-levelling self-leveling floor M200 F200 Pk5 W12 on a cement basis	25	1,75	375-471	20	2-40
REAL Floor leveler, High-quality cement-based dry mortar	25	1,7	360	20	2-80
Bergauf BODEN ZEMENT MEDIUM, a self-leveling floor for the final leveling of horizontal surfaces, ideal for further installation of any floor coverings ( ceramic tiles, parquet, carpet, linoleum)	25	2	289-324	20	6-60
Forbo Eurobond 915, fast curing screed, low shrinkage, self leveling, fast drying. Suitable for underfloor heating. For indoor use incl. in damp rooms. Withstands load from furniture on casters.	25	1,7	405	20	3-50
Petromix PS, for leveling floors on concrete and other hard substrates in dry, wet and damp areas. Serves as a base for floor coverings (parquet, ceramic tiles, textile carpets, plastic coatings, linoleum, etc.)	25	1,5	441-471	25	2-30
Founded T-42 Niplain, Self-levelling, high-strength, moisture-resistant, non-shrinking sand-cement based leveler using special chemical additives.	25	1,7	342-433	25	3-30
Ceresit CN 178, for the manufacture of screeds operating under conditions of low and moderate mechanical loads, incl. with constant exposure to moisture (in residential and public buildings, on exploited roofs, balconies, terraces, open areas etc.), for external and internal works, in civil and industrial construction.	25	2	370	35	5-80
Vetonit 4100 cement-based mixture for leveling concrete floors indoors	25	1,6	520-537	20	2-30
vetonit 4150, suitable for quickly leveling concrete floors and creating screeds in residential buildings, offices and public buildings. Used for renovations and new construction different kinds floor coverings. Used in underfloor heating	25	1,6	520-550	20	2-30
Bergauf BODEN ZEMENT FINAL, cement-based self-levelling floor for perfectly smooth surfaces. For rooms with normal and high humidity(bathroom).	25	1,8	435-490	20 If you are on a tight budget, then the last styling method is the most economical and advantageous in terms of trimming. Important! Before gluing, you need to make a trial laying on a dry one - this will help you choose the best way of laying. Installation process step by step Now you know what to lay the tile floor on wooden floor- the task is feasible, but whether the game is worth the candle - it's up to you. Video - How to lay tiles on a wooden floor Video - Laying tiles on a wooden base

The floor surface of ceramic tiles is ideal for bathrooms, toilets, kitchens. But what if the basis is wooden flooring, and the budget of the event is limited? Many people have a question about how to lay tiles on a wooden floor in order to avoid the complete dismantling of the previous structure and the installation of the floor base from scratch.

Features of a wooden floor

By its nature, wood is not a stable building material. With changes in temperature and humidity, wood products "play", constantly expanding, then losing in volume. A situation is considered normal when products and structures made even with dried and carefully processed wood shrink for several years, changing the geometry. Visually insignificant shifts occurring over a certain period are not noticeable. But for a tile, even a slight instability in the geometry of the base can be fatal - the lining peels off, the seams diverge, the tiles themselves crack and become unusable.

Based on the foregoing, it seems that the answer to the question whether it is possible to lay tiles on wooden floors automatically becomes negative. But not everything is so sad. After competent preparation and some preparatory measures, the installation of facing ceramics on an initially unsuitable base becomes quite feasible.

The first step to success is to review and proper preparation wooden floor. The durability of the base itself and the service life of the ceramic floor finish will directly depend on the thoroughness of the preparatory work carried out. The second step in arranging a stable base for laying tiles will be the use of additional materials, which will give the wood base the necessary qualities.

Inspection and preparation of wooden floors

Wooden flooring is extremely rarely even, with boards that are not affected by time, moisture and insects, so you have to start preparing with an unpleasant, time-consuming, but necessary dismantling. Will have to remove the layer old paint, partial replacement of the log and the floor board, possibly by reducing the pitch of the bearing bars and correcting their position in the horizontal plane. The ultimate goal of the preparation is the restoration of the wooden floor, the provision of ventilation between the structural elements, and, if necessary, the insulation of the base. Now everything is in order.

The sequence of stages of preparatory work

The first step in the preparatory process will be the removal floor plinths(if they are). After dismantling the wall decor, gaps will appear through which it is convenient to grab the first board from the wall and tear it off the supporting bar. It is convenient to remove the board with a nail puller or a similar improvised tool. After dismantling the entire board, an inspection of the elements of the wooden floor structure is made. Boards and logs unsuitable for further use are discarded, while selecting a suitable replacement.

The second stage of preparation for laying tiles on a wooden floor will be the removal of old paint from boards suitable for further use. There are three ways to accomplish the task here.

Exposure of layers of old paint to special chemicals(solvent), sold in construction markets. The substance is very caustic, so use protective equipment during work. Wetting the painted surface leads to the fact that the paint begins to peel off, after which it is easily removed with a metal brush.
The grinder will mechanically help to clean the wooden surface with a special wire nozzle. The process is laborious and very dusty, so it’s better to do it in an open space, without neglecting, again, protective masks, goggles, gloves. For this work, a respirator will not be superfluous.
The third way is to strongly heat the paint, as a result, it peels off and disappears on its own. As a heating device, a building hair dryer is used, in its absence, an ordinary blowtorch.

The board and logs freed from old layers are treated with protective impregnations, after which they dry, they begin to install a new wooden floor. First, lags are installed and fixed in one horizontal level - it is important to give this process Special attention, since the evenness of the boardwalk will depend on the correct position of the bars. If you plan to lay tiles on a wooden floor in wooden house, it is desirable to insulate the floor structure so that in winter the floor cladding is not too cold. To do this, fill the spaces between the lags with expanded clay or furnace ash.

Further, the updated board is re-sewn along the lags, being attracted to the bars with self-tapping screws. If necessary, the flooring is puttied (differences between adjacent boards are leveled), after which the created wooden base must be finally leveled for direct laying of the floor cladding. How to lay tiles on a wooden floor without additionally taking care of the stability of the base? The top layer of the preparation cake will perform two functions at once.

To finally level the rough wooden base and give it additional stability allows the use of such recommended methods:

the use of plasterboard sheathing (GKLV);
leveling with OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood;
the device is relatively thin "wet" screed.

Let us consider these methods in more detail, because the quality of the basis for installing tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom, kitchen or corridor depends on their correct implementation in practice.

Leveling plasterboard sheets

To carry out the process of final preparation of the floor surface for laying tiles using the described method, you will need a moisture-resistant drywall with a thickness of 12.5 mm (wall GKLV). alignment drywall sheets it is appropriate if the floor is relatively even, without sharp drops. Installation of GKLV to a wooden base can be done in the following ways:

fasten with screws;
glue on polyurethane foam;
glue on the foam, then additionally attract with self-tapping screws.

The first method is advisable to use on a flat surface. wooden flooring. If there is a curvature of more than 3 cm per linear meter, it is advisable to apply mounting foam, used for gluing polystyrene plates - this will make it possible to level minor differences. In addition, the foam layer acts as a buffer between the unstable wood base and the drywall deck. Some craftsmen recommend the third method, when the glued GKLV is additionally fixed to the underlying wood with self-tapping screws.

The method of leveling a wooden base with drywall is good because it is quick and inexpensive. Additional insulation of the floor surface will also be a plus. But some experts blame the fragility of the GKLV base in such operating conditions.

Surface for tiles made of plywood and boards

The tile does not lie on the wooden floor, therefore, to eliminate the deformation movements of the wood, a multilayer flooring structure is created, where moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is mounted on top. Between the top layer and the rough decking of wooden planks pour a layer of buffer material - expanded clay of the smallest fraction (3-5 mm).

First, a layer of expanded clay bedding is distributed over the existing wooden surface and leveled as much as possible. One of the sheet materials is laid out on top. OSB boards or plywood should be laid out so that the seams in adjacent rows do not match. When the top layer of the floor cake has been formed, the seams are puttied and reinforced with fiberglass mesh. Between the flooring of the plates and the walls, gaps of 1-1.5 cm are left and filled with polyurethane sealant. Due to the existing gaps, the installation structure for laying the veneering ceramics is independent of the walls (floating) and the wooden floor (due to the buffer layer).

When leveling the surface with chipboards using an intermediate layer of expanded clay, filling the insulation between the lags can be omitted.

Wet leveling

This technology is the most expensive, but gives the best result, since the result is a cement-based floating base that has the best affinity for the tile adhesive. As a material for the formation of the screed, leveling agents (packed polymer-cement mixtures) or self-leveling mortars are used. Self-prepared cement-sand mortars can also be used, but one should not forget about the qualitative strengthening of the basic wooden structure.

A step-by-step instruction for preparing the floor with a wet method looks like this.

Strengthening the base. Logs with this leveling method and a floor draft board thickness of 30 mm are placed in increments of 40 cm. With a board thickness of 40 mm, a distance between the bearing bars of 55 mm is allowed. If, during the revision, the step of the wooden supports turns out to be large, it must be reduced to the norm.
Floor formation. Boards are sewn along the lags with a gap between them of 5-10 mm (for ventilation). On top of the boards in a checkerboard layout, sheets of plywood or OSB are laid and screwed to the boards with self-tapping screws.
Waterproofing. A thick polyethylene sheet is used, with which the flooring is completely covered with at least 7 cm on the walls. If there are joints, they are carefully glued with adhesive tape.
Screed filling. Ready mixtures are used according to the recommendations of the manufacturers. Self-prepared cement-sand mortar is poured and leveled according to pre-installed reference levels (beacons).

After the poured leveling base has dried, it is primed with an acrylic or polymer specialized mixture. The base treated with a primer is ready. Next, consider how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, prepared and leveled in one of the proposed ways.

Stages of preparation for facing work

For the successful implementation of facing the floor surface with tiles, you need to prepare a set necessary tool, stock up on tile adhesive, calculate the number of tiles and decide on the method of laying the facing material.

The tools are useful:

two spatulas - notched (comb) and regular, up to 100 mm wide;
nozzle-mixer for a drill - needed for the preparation of polymer cement glue;
a suitable cutting tool for tiles - a manual or electric tile cutter, a grinder with a diamond blade;
bubble building level - you can’t do without it when adjusting the position of individual elements of the cladding;
aluminum rule 1.5-2 m long - will be needed to control the evenness of the surface to be lined.

The consumption of tile adhesive will depend on the degree of curvature of the surface, the method of applying the solution. On average at floor installation tiles one package (bag) of dry mix (25 kg) is spent on facing 2.5-3.5 m2. This means that with a floor area in a room of 9 m2, you will need 3 bags of polymer cement mortar.

A working adhesive solution is prepared approximately like this.

About 1/6 of its volume is filled with water into a clean container.
A dry mixture is gradually poured into the water until a slide grows above the water surface.
The mixer thoroughly mixes the dry matter with water until a homogeneous solution is obtained.
After 5-10 minutes, the solution is stirred again, after which it is ready for use as intended.

Tile adhesive is a "long-playing" solution. Freshly prepared working mixture can be used for 2-3 hours. This time is quite enough to, at a low speed of laying tiles on the floor surface, to develop a full capacity of 10-12 liters, so you should not rush with facing, even if this is the first experience.

To understand how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, thereby speeding up the workflow, it is better to first lay out ceramic tiles without gluing. Immediately you need to decide how the cladding is to be done. Tiles on the floor can be positioned as follows:

classically, when the cladding elements form continuous longitudinal and transverse seams;
with offset tiles in adjacent rows (imitation of brickwork);
diagonal layout.

There are more complex options when elements of different sizes are combined, patterns are formed. But this is the lot of professionals. A novice master should not climb into the jungle and stop at one of the listed methods of forming floor cladding.