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Do-it-yourself wooden terrace. How to build a wooden veranda - phased construction Ideal material for summer outdoor areas

The veranda attached to the house allows you to expand the habitable area, get a place for a comfortable stay. Closed (glazed), it still reduces the heat loss of the house. The best part is that you can make it yourself. And there are options that require solid costs, there are inexpensive ones. There are a lot of varieties both in structure and in the materials used, you can decorate in any style.

What are

According to the method of arrangement, the veranda attached to the house can be closed - with glazing - or open. Open ones are used mainly in the warm period, closed ones can serve as a place to relax. all year round. The veranda attached to the house can be of two types at once: part can be glazed (closed), part can be open.

There are also walkways - this is when in order to get into the house you pass through it. Such extensions are located from the front of the house, sometimes from the side of the courtyard, if there are two exits from the house. Entrance to impassable only from the house. It is impossible to get outside from such a veranda.

An extension can cover one, two or more sides of the house. If it covers two adjacent parts of the house, it is called a corner. Some of them occupy only part of the wall.

The forms are different. More often it is a rectangle, less often - a hexagon, a semicircle, other non-standard shapes (it is more difficult to build such ones). In short, these are all types of verandas attached to the house, but without taking into account materials.

An addition around the perimeter gives the house an extravagant look.

What materials are they made from

Most often in our area they make wooden verandas. It is easier to work with wood, and it is not as expensive as in other countries. In areas where wood is very expensive, structural elements made of metal, and the skin is selected to your liking. It can be glass (double-glazed windows), polycarbonate.

They build the walls of the veranda from brick, shell rock, rubble stone, building blocks. Just like a house, they are then finished or not, depending on the design of the main building. They can just make a fence, as in the photo above.

If the tree is expensive, or reluctant to regularly work with its processing, the frame of the veranda is assembled from metal. For this, it is most often used profile pipe, corners or channel - depends on the material and size of the extension. It is easier to attach glass packs to metal, you can make not glazing, but use polycarbonate. This material can be of different colors and different degrees of transparency. Despite the apparent fragility, there is a fairly durable material that is used to build greenhouses. And if so, then in the veranda, if it is closed, it will keep warm well.

Veranda attached to the house: construction stages

First of all, you need to decide on the type - open / closed, from what material, choose the type of foundation. You also need to decide what size it will have, where and how to be located. All this is desirable to draw on the plan. Even better - order a project. Construction according to the project is rather an exception for us, but at least a plan with dimensions and an indication of the location, binding to paths, etc. you should have.

Do-it-yourself construction of a veranda to the house follows the following plan (we build it from wood):

  1. With the help of pegs and twine, mark the contours.
  2. Remove the sod and fertile layer. If this is not done, the vegetation under the deck will rot, spreading aromas.
  3. Lay out the foundation. At this stage, questions may arise: how high should it be. If you make the foundation incoherent and “floating”, the level of the veranda flooring should be 5-10 cm below the floor level. This is necessary so that even when raised, the extension does not block the front door. If you do not want the floor to be lower, you will have to make a high threshold in the front door: to guarantee the freedom of opening the door. The height of the support beam depends on the height at which the floor of the extension will be located. It is nailed to the wall of the house, floor beams are attached to it. The height of the foundation is beaten along its lower edge (these are the next two steps).
  4. Nail a support beam to the wall, along the lower edge of which the height of the foundation is beaten off.

    How to mark the extension: nail the support beam at the required level, beat off the height of the foundation along its lower edge

  5. Build a foundation.
  6. While the concrete is gaining at least half the strength, you complete the preparation of the site. If at the bottom of the pit (the fertile layer was removed) the soil passes water well (sandy, sandy loam), crushed stone is poured to the bottom. It can be compacted, but you can do without it. If there is loam or clay under the fertile layer, you will have to fill the pit with either the same soil (but not fertile) or pure clay. It must be well compacted so that voids are not created in which water will accumulate (it is better to lay layers soaked to a paste state).
  7. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the finished foundation.
  8. Support racks under the roof are exposed and fixed.
  9. They make the strapping of the racks: they nail a timber 100 * 150 mm thick around the perimeter. It can be nailed outside the racks or between them. Sometimes the racks are nailed after the floor has been laid. This is not the most the best way: the floor will quickly become unusable. With such a structure, in order to replace it, you will have to disassemble everything, up to the roof. If you first set the racks, and then the floor, it can be repaired without problems.

    This is how the assembled frame of the veranda attached to the house looks like. Intermediate racks are needed only if the width of the veranda is more than 3 meters.

  10. Floor beams (beam 100 * 150 mm) are attached to the foundation and the supporting beam. The step of their installation corresponds to the step of installing piles or posts.
  11. Assemble the truss system.
  12. Side railings (for open) or walls (for glazed) are installed. At this stage, the general technology ends. Further, for indoor it is longer, open veranda easier to fit into the house
    • For open beams, floor boards are nailed.
    • For glazed make insulated floor. A draft floor is nailed to the beams. Above - logs, between them - a heater, on top - a finishing floor.
  13. Roof laying.
  14. Wall decoration inside and outside.

These are just general steps. To have a more complete picture of how to make a veranda to the house, we will further consider the most problematic moments of construction in more detail.

Perhaps you are interested in building a gazebo?

Foundation

If the veranda is attached to the house, the foundations are very rarely made connected. Firstly, the house has already settled, the shrinkage has passed. If a “fresh” building is rigidly attached to it, problems will inevitably arise. If it is possible to tie them, then only on stable, reliable soils, on which there are no movements. Secondly, heavy foundations are rarely made for extensions of this type. The building itself turns out to be light - especially open from wood or frame - and the bearing capacity is enough.

In general, they put verandas on the same foundations as at home. Another thing is that most of them stand on columnar bases: the costs are small, it takes a little time. And although all architects and designers claim that it is much more difficult to put up the correct columnar foundation than (although the tape one is much more expensive), people put the pillars.

Column and pile foundation

If you decide to attach a veranda to wooden house, you can put a columnar foundation. To make it yourself, you need to find out at what depth and at what distance the supports are placed. The distance between the posts depends on the material from which the extension will be built. If these are light materials - wood or light frame construction - you can set them in increments of 1.5 meters. For heavier ones, the distance should be from 1 meter.

Columnar foundation for the veranda - the columns are made of bricks. This open veranda is attached to a wooden house. The house stands on a strip foundation. The foundations of the extension and the house are not connected

When choosing the depth of columns, there are two approaches:

  • Bury below freezing depth. This is done on water-saturated soils prone to heaving. In this case, the veranda will stand on the same level, without changing its position, regardless of the heaving forces. For a columnar foundation, this only makes sense if the freezing depth is not more than 1.2 meters. At great depths, it is easier to make a pile foundation (better -). Pile holes are not very difficult to make even if you need to drill 2 meters. For the construction of columns for each of them, digging a pit of the same depth is difficult and time-consuming.
  • Make a shallow foundation: 20-30 cm below the fertile layer. In this case, get a floating veranda, which will be understood and lowered during frost heaving. It is much easier to build such a structure, but every spring you will have to deal with the consequences of heaving. Different pillars will “walk” in different ways and you will have to somehow rectify the situation. But this is on heaving soils (clay, loam). On stable soils that are not prone to heaving, there will be no such problems.

What is good about this option for a foundation for a veranda to a house? Quickly built, the cost of work and building materials is small.

Veranda attached to brick house on a strip foundation. They put it on . It differs from the columnar one in that the piles are either screwed in / hammered ready, or poured into the formwork and turn out to be monolithic

Disadvantages: It is difficult to predict its behavior. And both deep and shallow. With a shallow foundation, everything depends on the winter and the degree of saturation of the soil with water, which is impossible to foresee and calculate. With deep laying, there is also a problem: it is not known what is under each of the piles. After all, you cannot do a geological survey at all points. And in those areas where the soil has a complex layered structure, it is quite possible to get into some kind of pocket, because of which the pile will not behave as expected. Also in the case of piles or deep-buried columns, it is necessary to remember the lateral heaving forces. They may well break long and thin piles or poles. Therefore, on problematic soils for piles, a strong formwork (metal, asbestos) is taken and they are also reinforced: in the manufacture of pillars, a steel pipe coated with a primer is inserted inside, around which masonry is carried out. It is also possible to lay reinforcing belts. In the manufacture of bored piles, three or four reinforcement bars are necessarily inserted inside, which add strength to them. Attach a veranda with your own hands on pile foundation, can be fast and inexpensive, but the risks on heaving soils are great.

Monolithic: tape and slab

If you are going to build a veranda from brick, rubble or other similar heavy materials, and even with heavy cladding, you need a monolithic foundation. You will either have to pour the tape, or make a plate. They are made according to all the rules without any exceptions: with formwork, reinforcement, vibration, etc. Fully tech.

When building such a foundation, it can already be connected with the main one: you will have to make it to the same depth and, most likely, it will behave stably.

Advantages: high reliability and stability. Disadvantages: significant cost and duration of the construction process.

bedding

If the house is located on dry soils or in a region where frost heaving is just a scary tale, if it does not have a plinth, a veranda attached to the house can do without a foundation. In this case, the fertile layer is removed along with the vegetation, the bottom of the pit is rammed, then rubble is poured, rammed, then sand, which is also compacted. Flooring can already be laid on this base: wooden, paving slabs or slabs.

The veranda attached to the house can be without a foundation

One “but” of the racks on which the roof will rest still needs to be strengthened in some way. For them, small piles are made or columns are folded (from about the same depth where they started laying rubble under the flooring).

How thick should the bedding be? It depends, firstly, on the thickness of the fertile layer, and secondly, on the choice of floor covering. If these are wooden boards (as in the photo), you need to choose the layers so that they lie flush with the ground. If you plan to lay paving slabs, you will have to consider its thickness. Although, it can be slightly raised above ground level to separate it from the yard. But then a curb is placed along the edge.

In this photo, an open veranda is attached to the house without a foundation - it is rather a summer canopy with a polycarbonate roof and an open wooden fence

How to attach the rack and bottom harness

Work on the construction of the veranda frame begins after the foundation concrete (if used) has gained some strength. Enough 50% of the calculated, and this at a temperature of + 20 ° C, will occur in 4-5 days. Then, on top of the concrete, in those places where the racks or strapping will be attached, waterproofing is laid in two layers. It can be roofing material, roofing felt, folded twice. You can double coat with bituminous mastic or use other modern materials.

Then there are two ways:

  • fix the racks and then the strapping;
  • first strapping, racks to them.

If the first option is chosen, special holders are inserted into the foundation for racks during pouring. These can be different devices (see photo), but the most convenient is a metal plate in the form of an inverted letter "P", to the bottom of which a stud is welded, which is walled up in the foundation. A rack is inserted into this plate (the end must be treated with an antiseptic), its level is verified, and it is fixed with bolts or nails.

How to fix the racks to the foundation

After all the racks are exposed and fixed, strapping bars are nailed between them.

In the second option, the situation is different: the racks will have to be attached to the harness. The strapping bar is attached first. It is more convenient to do this if studs are embedded in concrete with some step. Then holes are made in the beam in the right places, it is put on studs and fixed with bolts. Then, using one of the methods suggested in the photo, racks are installed.

Options for attaching racks to the strapping beam

Any of these methods does not exclude the use of metal corners. They make the mount more reliable, which is very important in this case. After all, the roof will be held on the racks, and the walls or the fence.

Fastening the lag to the harness

They can be mounted on top of the harness, or on the same level with its upper edge. It is necessary to decide exactly how you will do this at the very beginning of the work: it will depend on what level it will be necessary to attach the support burs to the wall of the house (the height of the lag is taken into account or not). Methods for fixing the floor lag are shown in the photo below.

How to attach the floor logs to the strapping

Veranda roof connection

The veranda attached to the house is usually covered with the same type of roofing as scrap. There may be several options and the organization of the adjoining of the roof depends on how and to which wall you attach it. If the roof will be a continuation of the roof slope of the house, you need to splice two truss systems. In this case, they say that the roof of the veranda adjoins the roof of the house.

Then the procedure is:

  • Top trims are attached to the veranda posts.
  • Transverse ceiling beams are nailed to the strapping. The ceiling is then hemmed to them.
  • The long rafter legs of the house are shortened. They should not protrude beyond the wall.
  • The rafters of the veranda are made from a planed board, which are cut off at an angle from the side of the roof so that they adjoin the existing ones (see the photo below). To make it easier to work, you can make a template, according to which you can then prepare the rafters on the ground. rafter legs fastened to the house system through nails, you can put metal reinforcing plates on the side.
  • To increase the rigidity of the structure, spacers (anti-snow supports) are installed between the rafters of the house and the extension. They are shown in the photo explaining the design.

If the width of the veranda is more than 2 meters or heavy roofing material will be used, spacers are installed so that the support beam does not sag. It is better not to nail them on the side, namely, to insert them by surprise between the ceiling beam and the rafter leg.

In order to prevent sagging of the roof, spacers are installed between the ceiling beams and rafters.

More often it turns out that the roof of the veranda attached to the house adjoins the wall. In this case, a strobe is made in the wall, a special wall profile is laid into it, which is laid on the roofing with the second side. The place where it adjoins the wall is sealed with sealant.

The second option differs only in the shape of the wall profile: it can be made independently from a sheet of roofing iron. This design is distinguished by the presence of a beam, which allows you to move the bend away from the wall of the house and cover up possible errors when laying the roofing material at the junction. Also, in this embodiment, the apron is not attached directly to the wall material, but to a beam with a beveled edge mounted in a strobe.

The second option for adjoining the roof of the extension to the wall of the house

Some questions may arise on how to attach the rafters to the outer upper harness, because its dimensions do not allow making cuts, as on a Mauerlat. The usual solution: with the help of corners (see photo). Instead of corners, small cross-section bars can be used.

Maybe not the most elegant solution, but reliable. After the top is closed roofing, from below they will beat up the lining, they will not be visible.

The veranda allows you to profitably expand the usable space of a residential building. In a properly erected and well-equipped extension, you can comfortably spend time both in the warm and in the cold season.


An extension is best built so that it closes the front door to the main house. Therefore, you will not be able to build a veranda from any desired side of the already finished main building. Otherwise, the veranda will be torn off from the main building and you will have to enter it through the street.


Extension dimensions are selected individually. For a family of 3-6 people, a 3x4 m veranda is enough. It is also important to consider general form from the street. For example, if you live in a large two- or even three-story house, and the veranda is very small, the overall architectural ensemble will turn out to be inharmonious. For compact houses, you can safely attach verandas the width of the entire wall of the main building - it looks great.


Important note! Regardless of the chosen size and, in general, the features of the extension, its construction must first be legalized. To do this, you must have a project in hand. You can find it in open sources or order it from a specialized company.

With the finished project, go to the local architectural department. Employees of the department will study your project, make the necessary changes and issue a permit. Keep in mind that it takes an average of 2-3 months to review and approve a project, so it is best to deal with this issue in the winter, before the start of the construction season.




Construction site marking

We are starting to prepare our construction site.

First step. We remove about 150 mm of the top layer of soil around the perimeter of the future building and take it to flower beds, a garden or another place.

Second step. Align the resulting recess.

Third step. We do markup. First, focusing on the project, we drive in metal or wooden pins at the corners of the site, then in the same way we drive in intermediate pegs every 1-1.5 m, and then we pull the rope between the pins. We will be guided by it in the process of arranging the foundation.

We make the foundation

Most often, verandas are built on the bases of a columnar or tape type. The depth of the support is taken equal to the depth of the foundation of the main house. It is strongly not recommended to connect the main support with the foundation of the extension, because. these designs will have widely varying weights. Therefore, the degree of their shrinkage will also differ. To prevent a heavy house from pulling a relatively light extension, the latter must be erected on a separate foundation. To do this, leave between the foundations of approximately 3-4 cm gap.

Important point! When choosing the type of foundation, consider, first of all, the characteristics of the soil in your area and the total mass of the veranda. For the construction of heavy structures on heaving soils, monolithic ones are best suited. Lightweight structures, for example, made of wood, can be built on columnar supports.

Tape base

The tape type foundation is optimally suited for the further construction of a veranda on it from building blocks or bricks. The thickness of the base, as already noted, is maintained equal to the thickness of the foundation of the house. If this is a new building, we keep the thickness at the level of 70-80 cm.

First step. We dig a trench along the perimeter of the walls of the extension.


Second step. Align the bottom and walls of the trench, from wooden planks or shields according to the height of the future concrete support.

Third step. We successively fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-cm layer of sand and the same layer of gravel with the obligatory tamping of each ball of backfill.

Fourth step. We lay the reinforcing mesh of 10-12 mm bars. The recommended mesh size is 10x10 cm. So the base will be as strong as possible.

Fifth step. We pour concrete prepared from a portion of cement, three portions of sand, 4-5 portions of gravel and water.

Carefully level the fill and leave it to dry and gain strength for 3-4 weeks. In the heat, we pour concrete every day to prevent it from cracking.


columnar base

Perfect for a veranda made of timber or polycarbonate. Pits for poles are recommended to be made with a depth of 80-110 cm. If the veranda is small (up to about 3x4 m), it will be enough to install supports in the corners. However, professional builders recommend installing intermediate racks for any size of the veranda. We maintain the distance between the supports within 0.8-1 m.


First step. We dig holes in the places of future pouring of the pillars. The best way to do this is with a drill.

Second step. We fill the bottom of each recess with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. Additionally, it is recommended to pour about 10 cm of gravel. We compact each layer.

Third step. Pour the concrete to the ground level and let it harden.

Fourth step. Finished concrete supports are coated with bitumen.

Fifth step. We fill the cracks between the ground and the supports with sand.


Sixth step. We are building above-ground part brick pillars. We make the height equal to the height of the foundation of the main house.




Making a subfloor

The floor can be wood or concrete. For example, in a frame veranda made of wooden beam a wooden floor would be more appropriate. Concrete pouring will best fit into an extension made of bricks.


We do the wooden draft floor like this:

  • we fix the beam of the lower trim on the foundation. We use suitable fasteners, for example, anchors. To connect the beams directly, we first make samples at their joints and additionally fasten them with galvanized nails;
  • fasten to the bottom harness wooden logs. We maintain the step at the level of 50 cm - so the floor will definitely not fail. We use the connection option described above;
  • we fill the space between the lags with expanded clay;
  • we make flooring from unedged boards or plywood with a thickness of about 50 mm. We fasten the flooring elements to the logs with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

We do the concrete screed like this:

  • we fill the base with a 10-centimeter layer of sand;
  • pour a layer on top;
  • laying reinforcing mesh. For the floor of the veranda, a grid of bars with a diameter of 6-8 mm with cells of 25x25 cm is enough;
  • pour concrete.

Important! The screed should be as even as possible. We carry out the work with the obligatory use of the level.

We build a wooden veranda

Basic material properties

Wood is one of the most popular and ancient building materials. Even after the appearance on the market of all kinds of blocks and other budget and easy-to-arrange elements, wood practically did not lose ground.

With the construction of a simple frame wooden veranda, almost everyone can handle it. It is only necessary to properly mount the frame racks and sew them up with shields, clapboard or other suitable material.

The indisputable advantage of wood is its environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance and relatively light weight. The latter property allows you to abandon the arrangement of expensive and difficult to build foundations.

The main disadvantage of a wooden veranda is its fire hazard - installing a barbecue in such an extension or in its immediate vicinity is a very important undertaking that requires taking into account many nuances and trifles. Therefore, it is better to take the source of fire somewhere far away from the wooden veranda.

Another significant disadvantage of wood is its poor tolerance. high humidity, which is why the material needs serious pre-treatment with special ones. Without such preparation, the wood will rot very quickly.

Construction order

For the construction of the frame, we use a high quality wooden beam with a section of 100x100 mm. We already have the lower trim and the subfloor, so we continue to work following the instructions below.


First step. We cut grooves in the beam of the lower strapping for the installation of vertical supports. We maintain a half-meter step.

Second step. We install vertical racks. To fasten the frame elements, we use staples and screws or nails.


Important! The roof of our veranda, as noted, will be sloping. So vertical bar, installed at the bottom of the slope, we make 50 cm below the opposite racks.



Third step. We mount the beam of the upper trim. On higher racks, no questions will arise - we perform the connections in the same way as in the previous stages.

When installing the strapping of lower supports, we do the following: first we connect the posts longitudinally with a strapping beam, and then we fix the transverse crossbars connecting the high and low racks at the height of the low racks. We fasten the crossbars with high racks using pre-created samples and nails.

Fourth step. The top harness is ready. The resulting slope will allow us to lay the rafters for the roof. Additionally, we nail a girder near the roof slope. To fasten the beam with all supports, we use anchor bolts. For greater reliability, it is recommended to fasten the strapping beam with transverse boards or beams, if possible and necessary (we focus on the weight of the future roofing material). We will attach racks and struts to them for greater strength of the truss system.

Fifth step. We mount in increments of 50 cm. To do this, we use a wooden bar with a section of 100x200 mm. We perform the connection of structural elements by any of the previously discussed methods.


Sixth step. We sew the frame. Lining is perfect for interior cladding, siding or other material is perfect for exterior. Between the materials of the outer and inner skin we lay layers of hydro- and thermal insulation. We attach the film to the frame. The position of the insulation is fixed by transverse rails. The finishing material is also attached to them. When sheathing, do not forget to leave openings for windows and doors.




Prices for various types of timber

brick verandas

Basic information about building material

Brick is great for building capital verandas. In a building made of this material, it will be cool in summer and, if properly insulated, warm in winter. Brickwork durable, fireproof and unpretentious in care.

The main disadvantage of a brick building is a lot of weight. Such structures are built exclusively on, which does not have the best effect on the total cost of construction.

The order of the construction of the veranda

The foundation is ready and waterproofed, the screed is poured, the base is even and does not require any additional preparatory measures. Let's start laying out the walls.


We first select the appropriate type of masonry. The simplest options that are perfect for self-construction of a veranda are as follows:

  • spoon masonry. The final wall thickness will be 120 mm;
  • poke masonry. Wall thickness - 250 mm;
  • chain laying. Allows you to get walls with a thickness of 380 mm.

First step. We attach a mooring cord at two opposite ends of the foundation with a coupler. It should run along the edge of the base.

Second step. We expose the corner bricks along the cord, and then fill the space between them in accordance with the chosen masonry method. To fasten building elements, we use a standard cement mortar.


Third step. We check the evenness of the first row and similarly lay out the walls to the desired height, not forgetting to leave openings for doors and windows.

Important! will be inclined, therefore, the wall falling on the bottom of the slope, as well as the side walls adjacent to it, are made a row lower compared to the wall supporting the top of the roof.

Having laid out the last row of walls, we equip the armored belt. To do this, we fix a formwork about 70 mm high on each wall on the upper surface of the walls, put anchor bolts in the corners, lay reinforcing bars and pour concrete.

We let the concrete harden, and then we attach a strapping of a wooden beam with a section of 10x10 cm to the anchor bolts. The further procedure for arranging the truss system remains similar to the situation with

If the veranda is planned to be used throughout the year, the walls can be laid in two rows, filling the gap between the rows with heat-insulating material. With single masonry, we carry out insulation, moisture insulation and interior decoration by analogy with a wooden veranda. The exterior finish is up to you. You can simply gently embroider the seams and finish it.










Masonry sizeLength, L
Width, VHeight, HNumber of bricks
thickness not included
mortar joint,
PC.
Number of bricks
taking into account the thickness
mortar joint 10 mm,
PC.
1 m3 single brick laying250 120 65 512 394
1 m3 thickened brickwork250 120 88 378 302
250 120 65 61 51
1 sq. m of masonry in half a brick (masonry thickness 120 mm)250 120 88 45 39
1 sq. m of masonry in one brick (masonry thickness 250 mm)250 120 65 128 102
250 120 65 189 153
1 sq. m of masonry in one and a half bricks (masonry thickness 380 mm)250 120 88 140 117
250 120 65 256 204
1 sq. m of laying in two bricks (masonry thickness 510 mm)250 120 88 190 156

250 250 65 317 255

1 sq. m of masonry in two and a half bricks (masonry thickness 640 mm)
250 250 88 235 195

Prices for building and facing bricks

Building and facing bricks

We make the roof of the veranda

And the rafters have been installed. It remains to make the crate, mount the insulating layers and lay the finishing roofing material.

The crate can be continuous (for roll materials) and sparse (for sheet roofing). We make a continuous crate from OSB boards. To do this, we attach them to the rafters with a 1-centimeter gap. We fasten the beams of a sparse crate with a step recommended by the manufacturer of the selected roofing material. On average, it is 30-35 cm. To attach the battens to the rafters, we use galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

The cells between the bars of the crate are filled with mineral wool for thermal insulation. From above we lay waterproofing film and attach it to the crate using a stapler with staples. In the case of arranging a continuous crate, we fix the thermal insulation from the inside of the room. We fix the insulation plates with the help of transverse rails, nailing them to the crate.

In conclusion, it remains to mount. It is better that it matches the roof covering of the main house. Otherwise, we focus on our preferences and available budget.



Finishing the floor

If the subfloor is wooden, we put insulation in the space between them and stuff the flooring from edged boards. Boards are painted and varnished.

On top of the concrete screed, you can also equip a boardwalk, similar to the previous method, or lay another material of your choice, such as linoleum.



At the end, the doors remain, furnish at your discretion and connect lighting if necessary. We will not pull the wire. It is enough to take the extension cord out of the house and turn on the necessary lighting fixtures.


Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself veranda

Little things help make a country house cozier, for example, a small fountain in the garden, an old fireplace or a large terrace overlooking the surroundings. Building a terrace is not as difficult as it seems. The main thing is to make a plan in advance, moreover, with the maximum number of details. First of all, it is about choosing a suitable place, calculating the area and buying building materials.

Note that a terrace can be built anywhere - near the house, on the roof, in the form of a balcony, etc. But the option is more common at the level of the house, so this design will be considered.

Terraces are divided into many types, depending on architecture, style, design, etc. We will consider the classification according to design features, according to which terraces are divided into:

  • open;
  • closed.

The open design is different in that it is used exclusively in summer. It is a small canopy installed on a specially equipped platform and fenced with decorative half-walls.

The closed terrace, unlike the open one, can be used all year round. This is a medium-sized room equipped with ventilation, in which, with high-quality heating, you can relax and winter time.

Note! Separately, it is worth mentioning the universal terraces, both summer and winter. In principle, this is an ordinary open structure, which is equipped with doors and ready-made double-glazed windows for the winter. Such a transformation must be thought out in advance.

What will be required in the work

It is impossible to build a terrace without necessary tools, so first you need to prepare the following equipment:

  • jigsaw;
  • building level;
  • roulette;
  • chisel;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver
  • drill;
  • marker;
  • staples;
  • shovel;
  • brushes.

In addition, you will need Decoration Materials- boards, cement, antiseptic, iron blank for construction, paint.

Stage 1. Design

If possible, the presence of a terrace should be provided for even when drawing up a house project. This will allow you to build it on the same foundation with the building, which will only strengthen the structure. But if the terrace is built later, then you will have to draw up a new project, for which you need to contact one of the specialized architectural companies.

This project specifies:

  • climatic conditions;
  • type and depth of soil freezing;
  • average thickness of snow cover;
  • the state of the wall to which the structure will adjoin;
  • the area and dimensions of the future terrace;
  • planned building materials.

Note! For the construction of an open-type terrace, no permits are needed. It does not even need a foundation, as it is officially considered a temporary extension.

For a closed structure, permission is required, because this is already a redevelopment of the house. Finished project provided to the chief district architect. If the project is approved, then all the necessary adjustments are made to the documentation for the house (without this, the property cannot be sold or inherited).

Stage 2. Choosing a place

If everything is in order with the documents, you can decide on the place. This is one of the most important stages of work, since the aesthetics and ease of use depend on it.

In most cases, an extension is made to the wall on which it is located. Entrance door. So the design will serve not only as a recreation area, but also as a vestibule and a porch. In addition, a terrace can be built around the entire perimeter of the house - with one exit or several at once.

The front door is not the only option. You can arrange a terrace, say, from the side of the living room and equip a door in the room.

Note! In the northern regions of the country, it is better to build an extension on the south side and equip it with a wide canopy. In warm regions, a recreation area is located on the east or south side, moreover, in absolute shade.

Also, when choosing a place for future construction, it is worth considering the wind rose, especially where strong winds are often observed. The extension should be placed so that the walls of the main building protect it.

Stage 3. Selection of materials

A great way to save money is to use building materials left after building a house. Bricks, stones - all this can be used when building a foundation. But if the materials are bought, then you need to choose only the highest quality ones, because the design must withstand both the winter cold and the scorching heat.

Stage 4. Form of extension

The choice of geometric shapes in this case is practically unlimited. The best option is a rectangular terrace, but for the sake of originality, you can resort to more complex shapes, such as, for example, a hexagon or any other polygon.

Regardless of the form, any terrace consists of three main elements:

  • foundation;
  • auxiliary elements;
  • flooring.

Stage 5. Foundation

First, find out if a foundation is needed for the extension. If you believe the experts, then yes, it is needed, especially for long-term operation. And let for this you need to draw up a plan, get permission from architects and neighbors, but then you can be sure that the terrace will stand for more than a decade, and will not need annual reconstruction. Of course, only with proper care.

The sequence of actions when laying the foundation is as follows.

Step 1. The place of the future structure is marked, after which metal pins are driven in around the entire perimeter, and twine is pulled over them.

Step 2. Temporary supports are placed on the corners (for example, a pair of paving slabs) and side logs are installed. It is necessary to focus on the fact that the terrace should be located about 0.5 m above the ground.

Step 3. Horizontal level is leveled with a building level, if necessary, construction waste is placed under the tile. It is worth remembering that the logs must be made at a slight slope (at least two degrees) from the house to drain precipitation.

Step 4. The twine is aligned on the top of the log and firmly fixed.

Step 5. The lags are removed and the actual construction of the foundation begins. First, stone columns are placed in the corners, their height should be equal to the height of the support.

Step 6. A trench breaks out between the two columns. It is poured with concrete and curbs for sidewalks are inserted so that they are ½ underground. The surface is leveled, the solution hardens.

Step 7. A similar structure is created on the opposite side of the foundation, and the voids formed next to the curbs are covered with sand.

Stage 6. Flooring

Step 1. Logs are installed on the columns and fastened with screws.

Step 2. Places of future fastening of wooden beams are marked.

Step 3. The bars are stacked and connected to the logs by means of metal corners.

Step 4. Boards are creeping. The best option larch is considered because it is perfectly adapted for outdoor use. The approximate dimensions of the boards are 3x15 cm.

Note! The boards are not laid end-to-end, but with a small gap for air circulation - this will prevent the terrace from rotting.

Step 5. The edges of the flooring are aligned with an electric jigsaw.

Step 6. The coating is painted and varnished.

It is worth remembering that if decking is used instead of boards, then laying should be started with a centimeter indent from the wall.

Stage 7. Auxiliary elements

Such elements include everything that will make the summer extension more comfortable - for example, fencing, roofing, flower pergolas, and so on. It is the auxiliary elements that give the design originality.

Usually terraces are fenced with wooden parapets or screens, but there are also expensive forged products covered with climbing plants. Although this is an optional structural element, without it the safety of the residents of the house may be at risk, even if the height is small - 50 cm.

To protect from rain, the terrace must be equipped with a roof. In our case, the extension is located close to the house, so it is preferable to apply the same coating as on the main building. In addition, there are several other options.



In conclusion - a thematic video.

Video - Do-it-yourself terrace to the house

The thick main walls of the house serve as an excellent protection against bitter frosts, but in the summer, when the surrounding world is filled with greenery, sunlight and the chirping of birds, I really don’t want to hide behind them. However, constant stay on the street - in a hammock or on a garden bench - is not always convenient: there is no protection from gusts of wind, insects or unexpected rain. An ideal place for a summer pastime would be a terrace - an extension to the house, filled with light, air and the sounds of nature, but at the same time well equipped and protected from unwanted atmospheric phenomena. It will also come in handy in winter - as a vestibule or vestibule, preventing the penetration of cold into the house. How to build a terrace with your own hands, read on.

Terrace options for summer cottages

First of all, terraces can be divided into three types:

open buildings

An open terrace is an area attached to the house without a roof and walls. Elegant fencing made of stucco or hand forged, a sleeve built into the floor for installing an umbrella from the sun, simple lighting - all these elements can often be seen on outdoor terraces.

Partially covered

A terrace of this type may have a light canopy above it, which covers the entire area or only part of it. It is possible to have one or two walls made of light materials, or in the form of openwork structures entwined with plants, which serve as protection from the wind. What shutters exist on windows and how to install them is indicated in.

Closed

The closed terrace in the country house is already a full-fledged room with various equipment and furniture that can be used throughout the year.
In order for the closed terrace to be brighter, they arrange a large number of glazed openings. This applies not only to walls, but also to the roof, in which translucent lights are installed. There are also those that are just perfect for a country holiday.

Heavy and fragile glass is being actively replaced by more practical polycarbonate.

In addition to the affordable cost, the aesthetic qualities of this material play an important role, because it can be used to create curved surfaces of various colors. Also, tiles can be laid to the terrace, but which ones can be, the information on the link will help to understand.

Materials: wood, polycarbonate, stone

For each type of terraces, it will be appropriate to use materials of a certain group. So, for finishing open and partially covered areas, it is best suited natural stone or its imitation. The advantage of this material is the combination of external beauty and resistance to climatic factors. Quite suitable indifferent to corrosion plastic panels, aluminum and cast iron.

Terraces closed type in most cases, they are light buildings, so they are preferred to be built according to the frame scheme. The most comfortable and environmentally friendly option is a wooden terrace, in which the frame elements are made of timber, and the lining is made of clapboard or chipboard. Wood is an affordable and easily processed material, but it is subject to decay, and therefore requires careful maintenance.
Often, the supporting elements of the frame are replaced with a steel profile, which has a much smaller cross section with higher strength.

If it is decided to make the walls of the terrace stone, as a rule, light building materials are used, for example, aerated concrete.

Building a terrace for a finished house with your own hands

If the terrace is provided for by the project of the house and is being built simultaneously with it, the homeowner does not have any questions. It is a different matter if the decision to build a terrace is made after the building has been erected. In such a situation, a number of nuances will have to be taken into account. Moreover, if you plan the construction of a one-story bath with a terrace, you will have to carefully calculate everything. All calculations for the construction of a one-story bath are available.

The simplest structure around country house or at the dacha of additional landscaped space - minimum work, and maximum pleasure. This is a veranda, patio, covered barbecue area or outdoor terrace. Here, in any weather, you can enjoy lunch and dinner outdoors with your family or with welcome guests. Or, in the afternoon, chat online with friends, inhaling the aromas of a flowering garden over a cup of mint tea with a berry pie. But it is better to read a book in solitude during the midday heat or in rainy weather and indulge in pleasant memories and dreams under the measured rocking of a sofa swing. But you never know what you can do in the most pleasant part of the garden - at the junction of wildlife and urban amenities with garden furniture and sofa cushions?!

Terrace format selection

No matter how beautiful new house out of town, without garden paths, flower beds, porch and thoughtful outdoor terrace, it looks unfinished. Yes, and in the summer, no matter how comfortable it is in the house, I want to take out an armchair and a table to eat outdoors with the whole family. And it is better when the rain does not drip behind the neck, and the sun does not blind. A veranda and a terrace, a covered barbecue area, a gazebo, a patio and a covered gallery, a shady arcade with grapes or climbing rose bushes… All these are close concepts, although each structure has its own characteristics. But we will not go into details and differences, although it is worth telling more about the open terraces, photo:

1. An open summer terrace is the simplest building in the form of a canopy on one side of the house, used in the warm season. At the base it has a landscaped area, and can be with or without a fence, on a foundation or paved with paving slabs, with piers between the bases for ceilings or decorative ornaments with carvings or forging.

2. A closed country terrace is used all year round, therefore it involves a wall and insulation. Usually this is a more solid building with waterproofing and a foundation, which should be built according to the project, preferably simultaneously with the construction of the house. It is more like a lightweight extension at the entrance to the house, that is, there is another opportunity to increase living space. A medium-sized room involves heating and lighting, air conditioning and ventilation, as well as stationary furniture that is not taken out into the garden. Often there is winter Garden or early seedlings are germinated, and if full heating is provided, then the family rests there in the winter. Such a structure is also an additional thermal buffer between the house and the external environment in cold climates.

3. Another variety is a universal open terrace to the house, for example, with frameless glazing, which is maximally open in summer and closed and insulated in the cold season. Sometimes it is advisable to install ready-made double-glazed windows and doors in ready-made window openings or niches for the winter, which are removed in the summer. The enclosed space is heated for the duration of the visit by the owners of the dacha with efficient electric heaters, and if not needed, heating is not used. This is convenient when a suburban household is visited periodically, and the general heating is designed only for the residential part of the house. Such a terrace is designed initially according to the needs of the owners, so that seasonal transformations are possible.

Attention: It makes no sense to plan the costly construction of an insulated covered terrace if the cottage is used only in the summer season. If this is a country house or a cottage where it is not supposed to live all year round, a simple canopy or an open terrace is enough. And when visiting a private household every weekend, it is better to use the 3rd option.

Tip: It is not necessary that an open terrace in the country house be built right next to one of the walls. It can be a landscaped area between two auxiliary buildings, for example, a bathhouse and a garage, where grapes are used instead of a roof.

One wall of a staging area with a full roof without vines is best made of a translucent material to limit drafts. And you can build an open terrace near the barbecue in a remote part of the garden, where it is convenient to relax with your family in the evenings.

If you have already understood what type of terrace you need, then it is important to decide on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding. Do not make it too big if there is not enough space in the yard or on the site. In addition, it will require a lot of building materials, even if it is the simplest foundation and planed boards. An example is an open terrace to the house, photo:

A terrace or a veranda is a patio decoration, so it makes no sense to save on construction, thanks to waste materials at hand and the use of low-quality “humped” wood. It is better to make a small platform soundly without a foundation, in the form of a simplified design, and then decorate it with carved half-walls or neat wooden sides.

Tip: Any construction is done once and for a long time, therefore, with a lack of high-quality building materials, it is better to carry out part of the work in stages, and when new funds arrive, complete the spectacular building. For example, an open terrace in the country, photo:

If an open extension is made near big house on a grand scale, it is important to take into account the style and overall landscape design of the site. Everything should be in harmony with the appearance of the estate. It makes no sense to "zababahat" a terrace more luxurious than a small country house, although the modest porch of a luxurious house also looks somehow "scanty". A single architectural ensemble creates a magnificent impression.

You can also make a patio with a pool, which is different from the terrace - it is more tied to the house and raised above ground level. Sometimes an open terrace is a modified or extended porch that includes steps and railings. And the ennobled area in the courtyard of the house is sometimes zoned with a hedge, laid out with paving slabs and a crate is made instead of a roof under climbing plants- also the simplest option for garden furniture.

Tip: Until your site has a full roof during the construction process, use an awning or beach umbrella using the unfinished terrace for its intended purpose.

Is it possible to make an open terrace on your own?

There is nothing easier than the construction of the simplest summer cottages, such as outdoor terraces with your own hands. Main stages of work:

  • allocate space for a construction site for a terrace;
  • draw a rough sketch or draft a structure with dimensions;
  • remove all objects, debris and vegetation residues;
  • make markup according to the project or drawing;
  • we prepare a place for the foundation and make it;
  • we lay beams and logs under the flooring;
  • along the perimeter of the foundation we strengthen the bearing supports of the structure;
  • we make the basis for the roof or visor;
  • lay out piers between the supports;
  • we complete the decoration or sheathing, leaving room for window openings, if this is an insulated option;
  • we complete the construction of the roof in accordance with the general plan;
  • engaged in interior decoration and arrangement.

Tip: Whichever version of the proposed illustrations you like, it is important to adjust it to suit your conditions. The construction of the terrace should be functional and practical, adapted to your site and home, and also take into account the lifestyle of the owners and the seasonality of the use of the building.

We will discuss the choice of a place for the construction of a terrace and its shape

The best place for an open terrace is to combine the functions of a porch or veranda, that is, at the entrance to the house. Sometimes a large country house is supposed to have 2-3 doorways, then it is most convenient to make an exit from the kitchen or hallway leading to the living room. It happens that there is nowhere to make a terrace below, since everything has already been paved up to the garage. As an option - an open terrace on the second floor, like a vast balcony with a canopy. This is convenient to do if the living room is located in the same place, next to the bedrooms.

Most often, the construction of an open terrace is done instead of a porch, and this is reasonable, especially at the main entrance. Even if there is no separate exit to a covered canopy that functions as a terrace, it can be made from the side of the kitchen so that food and drinks can be served through the window. Then it is desirable that the window has a wide window sill on both sides, like a tabletop.

Attention: In winter, snow will fall on the terrace and roll off the roof, so a light tarpaulin awning or a weak structure may not withstand the load!

When a landscaped area in a small courtyard is built arbitrarily, without reference to windows and doors, they always take into account:

  • in what climate zone is the cottage;
  • where and how the sunlight falls to shade;
  • are there drafts and strong winds to close the wall;
  • whether there are prolonged heavy rains in the summer;
  • is there enough lighting or a lot of shade from garden vegetation;
  • is it possible to organize artificial lighting in the evening, especially if the family sits up for a long time at dinner in the evenings.

Tip: In a cold climate, a terrace is built on the south side of the dacha, and in a hot climate, at the north wall. Additional shade is created by climbing plants. If there is little light, then the roof or visor is made transparent - glass, polycarbonate, plexiglass.

It is also important what kind of view will open from the terrace, because you want the garden ensemble to please the eye. If there is a need to hide the family from prying eyes, then it is better to relax in the patio. For those who want to impress the neighbors landscape design and the beauty of home ownership, you can make an open terrace at the entrance to the courtyard. When for high fence no one can see anything, except for periodically invited guests, the location of the equipped site is not important, it would be convenient for the owners.

The shape of the terrace does not have to be rectangular; a semicircular platform looks original or in the form of a polyhedron. However, such an arrangement of an open terrace will require much more building materials, the amount of lumber waste will increase, and there is a need for additional finishing. The same can be said about the configuration of the roof. And don't forget the roof drain!

Do you need a terrace project?

Before making an open terrace in the country, they usually make a project. It could be simple drawing or a sketch indicating all dimensions for the simplest design canopy against the wall. If this is an integral architectural ensemble of a country estate, then the design should be done by a specialist.

Everyone knows that any quality work begins with a well-thought-out plan and cost estimates, down to the smallest detail. Then a common foundation is made for the house and the terrace, the structure can be combined under a common roof.

If the terrace is built later, it is still preferable to complete it from common roofing materials. At the same time, it is important how it will be “sewn” to the main structure through reinforcement, and sometimes it is made as an autonomous covered structure. Careful study of all details during the design reduces construction time and minimizes unaccounted factors that have to be eliminated along the way.

A light covered terrace is not a permanent structure, so it can be without a foundation and tied to a house. All these points are important to take into account in the project, which makes it easier to calculate construction costs. And the more competently it is compiled, the clearer the stages of the construction of a covered area and the consumption of materials.

If the project is made by an architect, he takes into account:

  • soil features;
  • climatic conditions;
  • precipitation intensity;
  • foundation load;
  • dimensions and overall dimensions;
  • type of supporting structure;
  • roof configuration and slope angle;
  • terrace glazing type;
  • ladder structure;
  • decorative trim.

Building materials for outdoor structures are selected resistant to moisture and fire. It is better to take wood with antiseptic impregnation and fungicides, with fire-fighting treatment. It is an ideal material for the construction of structural supports, its finishing and floor arrangement. Brick for piers is used light (hollow inside).

It is undesirable to make thick walls in order to minimize the shrinkage of the building. Lightweight foam concrete blocks are ideal for an insulated "winter" terrace. You can also use composite materials and homemade adobe bricks, if appropriate for the design of the country house. Waterproofing is required between foundation, concrete structure and flooring.

Any terrace project should be as economical and thoughtful as possible, taking into account the proposed furniture and free space. If there are only a sofa swing and a couple of chairs at a folding table or console, then 2-3 meters wide will be enough. In the case when a whole set of soft garden furniture from rattan with soft pillows, a full table and chairs for 6 (or more) persons, then the area of ​​​​the covered building can be increased up to 5-6 meters from the wall of the house.

When choosing material for an open terrace, it is important to know that a full-fledged roof is not always justified. In the garden, climbing plants, grapes or flowers will successfully replace it, but it is important to decide:

  • what type of green spaces is preferable;
  • how often they will be planted;
  • on which side of the terrace is it more comfortable for them to develop;
  • how watering and fertilizing will be organized;
  • whether harvesting is convenient if it is fruit plants.

Attention: Honey plants and strongly smelling plants should not be used. This will attract insects - bees, wasps and flies to the landscaped outdoor dining area. It is worth considering how to scare them away.

Advice: Right choice materials and competent design - a guarantee of quickly completed work. As a rule, it is proposed to take on the construction of such structures for those who have elementary building skills, tools and practice in working with wood. If certain stages cause difficulties, for example, laying the foundation or roofing, then it is better to entrust this to specialists.

Final stage:

  • exterior and interior decoration of the terrace;
  • landscaping and furnishing with garden furniture.

In a very modest dacha, you should not order an expensive project, which is usually entrusted to specialists. Here you can limit yourself to 2-4 pillars to support ceilings for an awning canopy or a polycarbonate visor. For such an accomplishment, it is enough to lay out the floors of the terrace with pebbles or tiles, decorate with plants in pots, adding hanging planters with flowers. Against the wall, you can make a sofa bench with handrails in the form of a small table - this is the simplest version of an open structure in the form of a veranda or terrace.

We build a terrace in the country (video) - we warm country house and attach a terrace to it.

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