Proper insulation of the balcony and loggia from the inside. Do-it-yourself internal insulation of a balcony and loggia - step-by-step instructions with photos, videos and descriptions Warm loggia how to properly insulate a loggia

In most apartments, balconies require additional insulation, on which comfort throughout the apartment directly depends. With basic finishing in the summer it is very hot on the balcony, and in the winter it is cold. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to insulate the balcony with your own hands. The step-by-step photo and video from this article will help you properly insulate at minimal cost.

Where to start warming the balcony

The method of insulation and the type of materials directly depends on the location of the apartment. If the apartment is located on the top floor, the roof often overheats in summer, creating a strong greenhouse effect, which contributes to overheating of the balcony.

If the balcony was made of low-quality slabs, they crack and let moisture through.
In any case, the balcony is insulated if it faces the north or south side. The south side provokes heat on the balcony, and the north side does not warm up in winter.

During thermal insulation, the balcony further improves the quality of sound and moisture protection.
Qualitatively insulated balcony makes it possible to use it at your discretion. There are practically no disadvantages of such thermal insulation, and the advantages are noticeable immediately.

Balcony floor insulation scheme

Before insulating the balcony from the inside, the surfaces are prepared with their own hands.

Cabinets, shelves, fasteners, cabinets are taken out.

Ceiling, walls are cleaned from exfoliating particles.

If there is a floor covering, it is removed.

After that, the integrity of the balcony slabs is checked. If the plates have a lot of cracks, chips, they need to be removed.

These areas are then covered with cement mortar.

The end result is a rough ceiling, walls and floor that are ready for further insulation.

In some cases, finishing plaster is carried out before insulation. This is necessary if the surfaces interfere with the installation of insulation and have irregularities.

Photo of a balcony with foam insulation

Before warming the balcony must be glazed. The best option for glazing the balcony there is a double-glazed window with argon filling. In severe frosts, it is better to install three-chamber double-glazed windows.

Step-by-step instructions for warming a balcony

Loggia insulation is divided into several steps:

Step 1. After installing the windows, all the cracks are filled with sealant, foam for installation. If there are large potholes and gaps, they need to be repaired.
Step 2 For waterproofing balcony surfaces, roofing material, bituminous mastic, and deep penetration liquid compositions are used.
Step 3. The insulation material is fixed, and then the vapor barrier.

Step 4. Do-it-yourself balcony decoration.

Step 5. The floor covering is installed.

How to insulate a loggia with penoplex

Penoplex insulation allows you to protect the balcony from cold and dampness. This material is mechanically resistant. The side part can be ribbed or smooth. The first option allows you to more effectively fix the plates together.

Photo of foam insulation

If the average annual temperature is low, material up to 7.5 centimeters thick is used. If in winter time the temperature does not fall below -25 degrees, a material 4 centimeters thick is required.

Penoplex fastening methods depend on the further finishing. When finishing from drywall, lining, fastening is done on dowels-mushrooms. If the surface is plastered, then the foam is glued.

To carry out the insulation of the balcony with penoplex, follow these steps:

• Plates are fixed on the primed surface.
• Penoplex is fastened in a tongue-and-groove or butt-to-butt manner.
• On top of the plate are fixed with special dowels.
• The joints are sealed with adhesive tape.
• The joints are filled with mounting foam (composition without toluene).
• From above there is a vapor barrier, crate and surface finish.
• Insulation with foam plastic can be done after the installation of the crate.
• Insulation is placed between the bars.

An interesting article: how to insulate a cottage with your own hands

Do-it-yourself insulation of the balcony with polystyrene foam

Penoplex is durable, but if this indicator does not play an important role, then you can use standard foam to insulate a balcony or loggia.

Photo of foam insulation

Styrofoam for insulation is produced in the form of sheets with a thickness of 5 to 15 centimeters.
To insulate the balcony from the inside, sheets 10 centimeters thick are used.

Before insulation, the surfaces are coated with a primer with deep penetrating properties.

Glue is applied to the sheets.

The sheet is pressed against the surface and fixed with plastic dowels.

Joints are sealed with mounting foam.

The seams are closed with tape.

A reinforced fiberglass mesh is fixed to the glue.

On top of the grid, you can do any kind of finish.

Styrofoam can be mounted on the principle of foam in the crate.

How to insulate a balcony with a clapboard with your own hands

Clapboard insulation cannot be of high quality if the balcony does not have sufficient heating. If there is no heating, then a base insulation material is placed under the lining.

Photo lining on the balcony

To install the lining, a wooden crate is required, which is mounted horizontally. Styrofoam or foam plastic is fixed in between. A lining is installed on top of the insulation. It is fixed on the crate. Such insulation can be carried out on a durable, reliable balcony.

Mineral wool for balcony insulation

Thermal insulation of the balcony with mineral wool makes it easier to design. This material allows you to protect the surface from cold, heat and moisture. Poor installation worsens the properties of the insulation by almost half.

Photo of mineral wool

A crate is stuffed onto the surface covered with a waterproofing compound. The plates are fixed with special glue and dowels. In the corners, fixing is done with extreme care. The insulated surface is closed with a vapor barrier.

Balcony insulation scheme

Then the surface is ready for finishing. When installing any insulation material, compliance with certain rules guarantees high-quality insulation of the balcony. Before starting work, carefully study the features of the selected material and how to properly lay it. Remember that the heat in your apartment or country house directly depends on the insulation.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands now you know and can choose suitable material for execution thermal insulation works.step by step photo- a good helper during do-it-yourself repairs. If you learn how to insulate the loggia with high quality at home, then you will have a new profession that is in demand today.

Recently, more and more apartment owners in high-rise buildings decide to expand their area with a balcony. This is a great option if you figure out how to properly insulate it from the inside and equip it.

If the balcony is not glazed, windows must be installed before insulation. It is better to choose high-quality double-glazed windows without saving, because the amount of heat in the apartment depends on them. Elements window structures should fit as tightly as possible to each other so that drafts do not penetrate the house.

The balcony is a part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people are beginning to equip their balconies for additional space, for example, Personal Area. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to produce competent insulation of the structure from the inside.

Stages of balcony insulation

In modern technologies for insulating open suspended structures (balconies), four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol and mineral wool. Consider the technological features of installation and types of cotton wool insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

playlist

1. First, existing gaps are sealed. It is necessary to carefully examine the balcony and determine their location. You can fix the problem with mounting foam, even if the slots are quite wide, you just need to choose a quality one, for example, Macroflex, Soudal, Moment Installation. After the foam dries, the excess is trimmed with a clerical knife.

2. Waterproofing the balcony from the inside. For these purposes, you can use penetrating waterproofing "Aquatron", "Penetron" and the like. They are applied with a brush, roller or by spraying. The advantage of penetrating waterproofing is that it penetrates inside the walls, as a result of which they become more resistant to low temperatures and more durable. In addition, waterproofing eliminates all microcracks that are not visible to the "naked" eye.

3. Laying thermal insulation material. For this purpose, you can use expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, foam plastic, mineral plates, etc.

Vapor barrier installation. You can use polymer "breathing" membranes, vapor barrier films "Izospan", "Rockwool" and the like, or in extreme cases penofol, which is laid with the foil side towards the apartment. So the heat leaving the room will return back.

4. Exterior finish ceiling and walls on the balcony.

Insulation option in which there is no additional insulation

This technique can be used provided that materials with low vapor permeability are available (we are talking about materials such as polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, or extruded polystyrene foam).

No. 1. Balcony insulation with polystyrene foam: sequence of work

If you chose expanded polystyrene as a heater, then the sequence of work is as follows:

After all the cracks are sealed and waterproofing is completed, the surface is treated with a deep penetration primer, for example, Ceresit. This can be done with a brush or sprayer. The primer is poured into a bucket or other container, which is not a pity, then applied to the surface. Carefully work out the walls, ceiling and floorto achieve maximum adhesion of the insulation boards with them.

After applying the primer, you must wait at least six hours, then continue work. If the wall is made of cinder concrete, then the primer is carried out twice.

Rest - continue. We unpack the styrofoam boards. They are attached with glue and fasteners. Glue must be prepared according to the instructions and mixed thoroughly. Then apply it on the first sheet, which is glued to the surface (do not forget to step back three centimeters from the edges, and leave small gaps between the sheets). Mount sheets of expanded polystyrene in a checkerboard pattern.

To lay a vapor barrier or not - it's up to you. In this case, it is not necessary to do so.

Installation of reinforcing mesh. When all the plates are securely fixed to the walls or ceiling, a reinforcing mesh should be mounted. To do this, the surface of the plates is worked out with glue, perforated corners are fixed at their corners. The reinforcing mesh is rolled to the glued surface with a roller, then another layer of glue is applied. When the wall dries, it is primed and plastered

No. 2. Insulation of the balcony with foam

Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of rooms. You can fix it to the surface using bituminous mastics, mounting foam or mushroom dowels. Consider the option of mounting on mounting foam.

So. Waterproofing done. Mounting foam is applied to the insulation plate around the perimeter. It's enough. After applying, wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next plate is laid end-to-end to the first. After two days, you can fix the plates with additional dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in the same order as described above. Do the finishing to your liking. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels, they look very original.

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

No. 3. Balcony insulation with mineral wool: technology features

Warming of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached over the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is the building recommendation to carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the remote structure.

Types of mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Minvata is soft material, which has no rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (before laying they are unwound into a track) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Important! During installation, the foil should be located on the side of the room. The internal heat of the room will be reflected from the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any type of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between outer wall(ceiling, roof) and frame supports. Wooden sticks or metal profiles can be used as supports, depending on which cladding will be used in the future.

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the frame-lathing is constructed of wood. Wooden sticks with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2 are installed, while you can save a little the interior space of the balcony by installing rectangular sticks, and not square section(30×50 cm2, 30×70 cm2).

All racks and horizontal laths of the crate are installed under the level. Fastening of vertical racks to the concrete surface of the ceiling and floor is carried out with anchor bolts. Horizontal ones are attached to the vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, horizontal slats are attached at three levels: knee, thigh, shoulder.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. By itself, the cotton material is breathable, it easily passes gaseous substances (air, steam).

Given that during internal insulation, the point of condensation is shifted into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the ingress of steam or air from their living quarters into the building wool. For this purpose, a vapor barrier film is laid between the mineral wool and the finish.

Interior decoration

purpose interior decoration:

1. Close the heat insulator material from the living space.
2. Create an aesthetic interior wall covering of a room or insulated loggia.

Exist various materials for interior decoration of balconies (drywall, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed crate frame, the finishing is done by hanging various kinds panels: plywood, MDF, lining made of wood or plastic.

Finishing with clapboard is done by lining the walls with wooden (or plastic) carload panels, which have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and fastening density. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper imitator. wood flooring laid by interior walls balconies (or loggias). It is characterized by less strength and rigidity.

Wooden wagon panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, have sufficient rigidity for flooring. Plastic clapboard you can sheathe the ceiling of the loggia, the floor is covered with wood, as for the walls - both types of wagon cover (plastic and wood) can be used here.

Clapboard lining is recommended to start from the corner. Each panel is checked for verticality by a level and fixed to the crate with a special fastener (clamp). You can fix the wagon panel with small carnations.

After finishing, the inner surface is treated with a composition that protects the wood from moisture and from destruction.

Problems faced with internal insulation of the balcony

1. When sheathing walls, ceilings and floors with insulating material, the area of ​​​​the room inevitably decreases. And this drawback is not the only one.

2. Condensation often occurs in many structures, which is difficult to get rid of when all construction work has already been completed. Why does excess moisture appear?

The insulation structure installed on the balcony includes the following elements:

1. outdoor fencing located on the street; warming material; warm room.

Air masses tend to get outside, and their moisture, which has passed through the insulation, settles on the outer fence in the form of condensate. The insulation gets wet and completely loses its performance characteristics.

Warm vapors, colliding with a cold fence, also turn into a liquid state. Excess moisture in the room causes many problems: for example, the appearance of mold or rotting of wooden structural elements. That is why you need to know how to properly insulate your balcony.

From the inside, this can be done in two ways.

Hydrobarrier

Hydrobarrier - a special design that prevents moisture condensation on the outer fence. The technology of its installation includes certain stages:

1. installation of vapor barrier;
2. facing materials.

The hydrobarrier makes it possible to use even materials that do not tolerate moisture when insulating from the inside. Polyethylene or foil serves as insulation.

Important! All seams must be sealed with construction tape.to best insulate the balcony.

The disadvantage of this method of insulation is that the walls cannot breathe.

Warming without additional insulation

It is possible to insulate a balcony from the inside in this way only if there are materials with low vapor permeability: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. The design includes:

1. fiberglass mesh, also mounted with glue; finishing.

Advice! For better fixing of the insulation, you can use plastic dowels.

For thermal insulation with polystyrene foam, glue is not required. This material is applied to the surface to be insulated with a sprayer, foams and dries.

Innovative insulation from TechnoNIKOL LOGICPIR Balcony is suitable for walls, ceiling, floor. saves space - plate thickness from 20 mm.

1. keeps warm due to the unique thermal conductivity of 0.022 W / m ° K (compare with glass wool 0.032-0.041 W / m ° K);
2. protected from moisture, rot, mold and fire (combustibility group G1 according to GOST 30244-94);
3. will last for many years (the insulation retains its properties for 50 years).

Advice! When insulating a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam, it is better to make a layer of material about 80 mm thick. The vapor permeability of extruded polystyrene foam is lower than that of a simple one, so its layer can be even smaller.

Floor insulation

Behind the insulation of the walls of the balcony, the floor should be insulated. If you correctly calculate the amount of insulation and the thickness of its layer, you can make the floor on the balcony at the same level as in the rest of the rooms.

At the first stage of work, the slab is cleaned of dirt, debris and crumbling plaster. Then the floor is covered with foil and penofol. The second stage is the fastening of the crate, previously cut with a jigsaw. Insulation plates are laid between its bars (preferably foam), and the gaps between them are filled with foam. The final stage- installation of flooring, linoleum or parquet and skirting boards.

This design can raise the floor on the balcony by about 150 mm.

Electric heated floor

You can insulate the floor using modern technologies. Then the balcony will not differ from other rooms in almost nothing. Installing electric heat tracing is a relatively simple process, but electricity costs increase significantly.

To heat the balcony floor from the inside, a special electric cable is installed.

Important! Moisture must never get into the cable.

Insulation components:

Ceiling insulation

Advice! If the neighbors living on the floor above have already insulated their balcony, there is no need to insulate the ceiling.

The most optimal material for ceiling insulation is foam. It weighs very little, which is very important in this case. Its main layer is supplemented with foil, which acts as a vapor barrier and heat reflector. Foiled polystyrene foam is fixed with polyurethane foam glue and dish-shaped dowels. All seams are sealed with a special metal tape.

The foam plastic is attached to aluminum hangers using the same combined method.

Important! Insulation sheets should fit together as tightly as possible.

All cracks are filled with mounting foam with great care, so every, even the smallest, hole can make all work absolutely useless.

You can insulate the balcony from the inside both independently and using the services of professionals. However, these construction works can be simple if you use the tips and carefully understand the technology.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos and instructions

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Errors when warming a balcony

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I did not dwell much on highlighting the question of how best to insulate the loggia from the inside. But right choice thermal insulation material - the key to the effectiveness of ongoing activities.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions that I give below will tell you how to choose the right material for insulation yourself.

Requirements for heaters

Before telling you how to insulate the loggia inside with my own hands, I want to give a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what is worth paying attention to:

1. Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, for the thermal insulation of the room (whether it be a separate loggia or combined with the main room), you will have to use a smaller layer of material. So, more usable area of ​​​​the room will be saved.
2. Ease of installation. The more complicated the procedure for installing the heat-insulating material you have chosen, the longer and more laborious the repair process will be, especially on your own. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside. If you need, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
3. Strength. It is better to choose a heater that tolerates external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, the subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
4. Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the heat-insulating cake. In addition, air vapors, which are formed as a result of human activity, can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, fungus and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
5. Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have an optimal ratio of cost and performance. And then you yourself choose what material is better to perform insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's start the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - polystyrene foam or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. It turns out some kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I will briefly describe the main technical characteristics of the material:

1. Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W / (m * K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you get for work.

I'll warn you right now. Do not confuse foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are relatives, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

1. Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional building foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulation layer.

Therefore, the insulation of the loggia with foam plastic from the inside requires additional measures to be taken to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation is different with water absorption. When in contact with liquid, the foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-retaining properties do not deteriorate much from this, therefore it is not necessary to carefully waterproof the insulation layer.

1. Strength. For insulation, building foams are used that meet the requirements of DIN 7726 and are classified as "rigid". That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when a dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you use polystyrene foam for the internal insulation of the loggia, you immediately need to decide how to finish the inside after insulation. You need to choose this way decorative finishes, which would simultaneously protect the insulating layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of the foam is largely dependent on its density. But with an increase in density, heat-preserving properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam for internal insulation is 25. You can also buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is already an unjustified waste of money.

1. Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bituminous resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalts.

However, I myself saw how the foam “melts” when some varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances get on it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, you should take care of its thorough protection.

1. Sound absorption. If you want the insulation layer to act as a sound insulator at the same time, then you will be disappointed with the foam. It is able to protect a little only from impact noise, and even then, if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Other noises that are transmitted through the air, the foam does not jam. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves do not absorb.

1. Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the United States finally proved that biological life on the surface of expanded polystyrene is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and fungus.

As for the issues of environmental protection (for some, this is very important), everything is also fine here, since the use of freon, which is harmful to the ozone layer of the planet, was abandoned in the production of insulation. In addition, the foam itself serves for a long time without losing its performance properties. And regardless of the number of cycles of freezing and thawing.

However, the insulation in question is subject to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:

• benzene;
• toluene;
• formaldehydes;
• methyl alcohol;
• acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

1. Fire safety. According to the current Russian standards (GOST under the number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth flammability classes. In other words, they are very dangerous when viewed from this point of view.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to what standards the expanded polystyrene is certified. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most combustible material is wood, but they do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed during the ignition of the foam.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive studies. And buy polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants (it is marked with the letter “C”). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just takes a longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite it.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to the foam, it continues to be a rather combustible material. Therefore, if you are going to arrange a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, flame retardants disappear over time.

1. Lifetime. Subject to the foam installation technology (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material) it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you do not make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this is the wrong choice of a warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam board 30 cm thick, then the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not so, because a thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a dwelling. Among other things, this method of installation allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I kind of summarize everything that has been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

1. For internal insulation, I advise you to purchase polystyrene foam with the PSB-S marking with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances but not for construction.
2. Sometimes manufacturers label the foam with the number "40", which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the package or provided separately at the request of the buyer.
3. Buy foam produced by extrusion (should be listed in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
4. To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece from it. If you see balls at the break point, which are also easily separated, then you have packaging material in front of you. Styrofoam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedrons, along which a fracture occurs.
5. If we talk about specific manufacturers, then I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

I recently used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And he chose the material of a domestic manufacturer for work - foam plastic. That's why I'm going to talk about it in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States of America about half a century ago. essence technological process is as follows: expanded polystyrene granules are placed in a chamber where they are melted under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto the conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foams are used, that is, substances that, when heated, emit gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene tape is cut into slabs and packed in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

• polystyrene;
• ground perlite;
• sodium bicarbonate;
• lemon acid;
• barium stearate;
• tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of foams in the production of foam gives the latter a porous structure, like foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly interconnected into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are isolated from each other, so they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this whole structure has greater strength than classic expanded polystyrene (styrofoam).

The exact technical characteristics of the penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam on the building materials market, which differ in the characteristics and dimensions of the plates. Accordingly, they must be used for insulation different designs.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some of the parameters:

1. Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex, this figure is approximately 0.03 W / (m * K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing heaters. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, protect it with additional waterproofing membranes not necessary.
2. Hygroscopicity. When in contact with water or moist air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the upper layers of the insulation are impregnated, which positively affects the integrity of the material.
3. Vapor permeability. The material does not pass moisture vapor dissolved in the air through itself. Therefore, the surfaces finished with foam are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
4. Compressive strength. This parameter is at a height, which is achieved due to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used to insulate floors on the loggia (laying the insulation under the cement screed). If a significant force is applied to the insulation, a dent with a depth of no more than 1 mm may form on the surface.
5. Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, during operation it releases a small amount of chemical compounds that can be hazardous to health.
6. Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freeze and thaw cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia and even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a method of decorative finishing.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex on sale. To make it easier for you to choose the right variety, I will give the following table.

Marking	Scope of application
Penoplex 31	Used for insulation of industrial tanks with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C	A material that, like the previous one, is not very durable, therefore it can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish when ignited.
Penoplex 35	Material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of the loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45	Very durable and moisture resistant insulation. It is used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that experience a large static and dynamic load. On the loggia, it can be used to warm the floor.
Penoplex 45C	Self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for thermal insulation of industrial and commercial buildings.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex has its own names. I will give a detailed description of each brand in the following table.

Name	Density, kg/cu.m.	Purpose
Wall	25-32	It is used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and basement floors above ground level.
Foundation	29-33	It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of foam is very durable and able to withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof	28-33	It is used for insulation of attic rooms. The insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subjected to a constant load.
Comfort	25-35	Material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. Differs in that it can be used in rooms with high humidity air.

If you ask my opinion, then I would advise using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged crate.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from a volcanic mineral - basalt. Basalt wool is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the vicinity.

Now basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a melting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. Then the mixture enters the drum, where it is blown by a jet of air and rotates. The result is fibers with a thickness of 7 microns and a length of about 5 cm.

After that, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I will tell you the most important thing about this heater:

1. Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, wool, although it does not overtake penoplex, is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

In order for you to understand what we are talking about, I will compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with others building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 1 m 20 cm. Silicate brick will need even more - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

1. Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate inside the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor) increase their thermal conductivity, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take exactly basalt wool, and not from glass fibers. Do not confuse. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

1. Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, on the loggia, where you use such a heater, a comfortable microclimate for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

1. Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high melting point, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation of engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which is very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST under the number 30244 and SNiP under the number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when warming residential premises.

1. Soundproof properties. Unlike expanded polystyrenes, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are arranged randomly.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces the reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

1. Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of the basalt wool. Although it is less than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction works, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this indicator does not decrease depending on the operating time.

Nevertheless, it is impossible to install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend equipping the crate, on which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova), which are specifically designed for insulating floors under a cement screed.

1. Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion of metal parts. In addition, mold and fungus do not start inside the insulation layer and on its surface, insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia in the country. Unlike foam, which mice love to chew on.

1. Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together with phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to assure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of production of basalt wool. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of a person.

Material disadvantages

So that you do not get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for warming the loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

• high cost of insulation;
• the presence of seams in the insulation layer, which make it leaky;
• the possibility of the formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers in the process of working with it;
• high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all the necessary information to choose the right insulation for the thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

Creating a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be airtight. The floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

• self-insulation ( personal experience)
• . The most useful from youtube
• On the example of Moscow

The choice of heat insulator

Advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common options for heat insulators:

• Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
• Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
• Polyurethane foam (PPU);
• Styrofoam;
• Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw materials:

• Stone;
• slag;
• Glass.

An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material is placed in the prepared structure. The frame for mounting can be made of metal profiles or wooden bars.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

When laying mineral wool, the foil side should be directed into the room. This principle allows heat to be reflected off the aluminum cladding and returned to the room.

This method is quite common, despite the existence of cheaper heat insulators. The insulation is resistant to fire, does not contribute to its spread. When mineral wool is heated, no harmful substances are released into the air.

The main disadvantage is that moisture acts destructively, a vapor barrier device is necessary.

Pay attention to the integrity of the mineral wool packaging before buying. Moisture adversely affects the properties of the heat insulator. For high-quality insulation, it is necessary that the space of the loggia be dry.

Polymer-based insulation

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compounds.

Advantages:

• The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also a small weight of the plates;
• High degree of moisture resistance;
• The materials are durable;
• Antifungal resistance;
• Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (polyethylene foam);
• An economical repair option, subject to the choice of foam as a heater.

Main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire, emit harmful substances in the combustion process.

When choosing foam and other materials based on polymers, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density

If you plan to use the space in winter, in this case, choose a thickness of 50 mm. Density is determined by further coating - a value of 25 kg / cu is suitable for putty. m.

1. Styrofoam sheets

Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) in the process of laying.

Styrofoam refers to budgetary methods of warming a loggia, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, therefore, a crate is necessary for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.

2. Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam boards (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with mounting foam. Penoplex is attached with the help of special dish-shaped dowels ("fungi").

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator, and with the help of penofol it is possible to provide a vapor barrier of expanded polystyrene. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.

In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, however, many have managed to evaluate the performance properties of PPU. This heater is characterized high performance thermal insulation, due to the finely porous structure.

Polyurethane foam spraying is carried out by specialists, on installation work one day is enough, it also does not take much time to dry completely.

The main stages of work on the insulation of the loggia space

In order to increase the usable area in your home and operate the premises all year round necessary:

1. Close the gaps, if any. Carefully study the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, the gaps are filled with mounting foam, even if they are of a significant size.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Arrange a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - Penetron, Aquaton, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become maximally resistant to adverse weather, and strength characteristics are improved.

The device of the waterproofing layer allows you to eliminate the most minor surface cracks that may not be visible visually.

4. Thermal insulation layer. To organize a warm structure, we use the selected material (polyurethane foam, foam plastic, polyethylene foam, polystyrene, etc.).

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, special polymer membranes (“breathing”) should be used, as well as films “Rockwool”, “Izospan”, penofol.

When using penofol, lay the insulation in such a way that the side covered with foil is directed into the room. Under this condition, the heat will be constantly reflected from the foil, lingering inside the space.

6. Final finishing of walls, floor and ceiling surfaces.

With detailed description each stage can be found in the article: .

Balcony decoration

Purposes of creating interior decoration:

• External masking of the heat insulator;
• Organization of a favorable internal environment in the room.

To create an interior balcony, you can choose various options finishes. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, plasterboard sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.

The lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden frame crate.

The walls of the loggia are lined with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

The plastic panels have grooves for connecting elements. Plastic variant lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of GKLV sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or lined with decorative plaster.

Wall decoration with wallpaper over GKLV sheets.

Bamboo wallpaper. The basis for finishing - drywall.

Video

1. The result of warming the loggia.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical outputs. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam plastic with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, wall finishing with putty. Concrete floor screed over insulation boards.

2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.

Sequential process of arranging the premises. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with foam plastic and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, OSB cladding, installation of laminate lamellas.

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Welcome site visitors!

Today's post will benefit people who are going to insulate the balcony from the inside.

My relatives decided to increase the area of ​​​​the living room due to the adjoining balcony. So, as the apartment has two balconies, so such a decision has long been suggested.

There was no project, I had to figure out all aspects of the work myself. And now I am publishing comprehensive instructions for warming the balcony. The information provided in the article will serve you well when you decide to do the same.

How to quickly and correctly insulate a balcony?

How to insulate a balcony?

The vast majority of owners of apartments with balconies sooner or later think about how to use this area more functionally by insulating it.

Typically, such premises are used for one of the following purposes:

• in the first case, many years of rubbish accumulates on them, everything unnecessary is thrown off. An outward-facing pantry is formed. It was this role that was assigned to balconies and loggias in most Soviet apartments;
• the second case is when the owners of the apartment try to expand the often too cramped living space at the expense of the balcony, turning it into a room, an office, winter Garden.

But for the second solution, you need reliable insulation. According to experts, in apartments located in old houses, significant heat losses occur through balconies if they are not insulated.

Therefore, you don’t even need to ask yourself the question: “Should the balcony be insulated?”. Of course, this is necessary, even if a full-fledged heated room is not supposed to be arranged from it.

So how to insulate the balcony with your own hands and what nuances should be taken into account (floor insulation, room insulation from the inside, etc.)?

The first steps

First of all, you need to complete the glazing of the balcony or loggia, otherwise the meaning of warming is simply lost. With glazing, even a balcony open on all sides becomes more like a loggia.

Recently, more and more people have begun to use wooden frames, but metal-plastic structures are also very popular. Wooden glazing can be no worse than using PVC structures, if the material is treated with the necessary materials - antiseptic compounds, several layers of paint, etc.

Deviating from the topic: we hope that no one needs to talk about the differences between a loggia and a balcony.

But just in case, we briefly note: the balcony is a platform protruding beyond the facade, fenced around the entire perimeter; the loggia does not protrude beyond the plane of the facade, it is built into the wall and is surrounded by walls on the sides.

The insulation technology is almost the same in both cases.

Of course, the owner of the balcony would like to quickly complete all the work and move on to other urgent tasks. So the work gets done quickly. The cracks are patched carelessly. And immediately installed heating devices (heating radiator or underfloor heating system). After that, the owner believes that he can relax, he is reliably protected from the cold.

But in winter, all the shortcomings and haste will certainly translate into very unpleasant discoveries. Even on an insulated balcony, it turns out to be a difficult task to maintain a comfortable temperature. The reason for this is that hastily performed insulation does not provide a sufficient reduction in heat loss.

When deciding to heat a balcony, it must be borne in mind that it is not allowed to use a central system for this building codes. Therefore, it is necessary to qualitatively insulate all surfaces - walls, floor, side and front side.

An example of warming a loggia with accession to a room, see the video:

You will have to solve a number of problems:

• seal cracks and seams with mounting foam and special sealants. If this is not done or done carelessly, there is simply no point in insulating the balcony further;
• install waterproofing, which will avoid the formation of mold, the development of pathogens that prefer to appear and grow in wet places. Waterproofing will be the first layer of the whole “pie” that we use to securely protect the balcony. Among other things, the waterproofing layer will allow you to move the freezing point to the outside;
• installation of thermal insulation. In this case, it is necessary to install a heat-insulating layer, as in the previous case, on all concrete elements. This will eliminate the risk of cold bridges and allow you to maintain optimal temperature in room;
• followed by another waterproofing layer, with the help of which an additional heat-insulating layer is also provided;
• cladding frame installation;
• decoration of a balcony or loggia from the outside.

How to insulate a loggia?

We have already found out that any insulation of a loggia or balcony begins with proper glazing. Also, work is needed on the surfaces of the floor, walls, etc.

Now you need to choose materials for insulation.

There are a huge number of materials on the market to achieve this goal, and it is time for an inexperienced person to get confused in such a variety. But some materials are preferable to analogues, so we will consider their properties in more detail.

The final result depends very much on how correctly the choice of raw materials for the hydro and thermal insulation of the balcony was made.

We will start from two factors. The first is the effectiveness of a particular material at a certain thickness. The second is the economic feasibility of acquiring just such material.

Note that, despite the similar parameters of loggias and balconies, in the first case, it is easier to perform reliable insulation than to create conditions close to living conditions on the balcony. This is not surprising, because in the case of a balcony, a large area will have to be glazed, and heat loss through the windows is the most significant.

First, consider materials for sealing gaps and seams on all structures and surfaces (frame, parapet, ceilings, etc.).

Gap filling materials

In principle, you can choose almost any composition intended for sealing.

Usually they rely on sealants, foams and mastics from polyurethane, basing the choice on the fluidity of materials until the moment of curing.

You can choose other similar materials. To prevent the sealant from leaking out during use, large gaps are sealed with foam or other improvised materials.

Balcony / loggia waterproofing

In the process of waterproofing a balcony, it is necessary not only to process the internal surfaces. It is also required to mount a drain, due to which the access of water under the frame is excluded, process the frame itself (if it is wooden structure). For the frame, various hydrophobic compounds- varnishes, oil paints, enamels, antiseptics, etc.

In other details, the balcony and loggia are insulated from the inside using a single technology.

For waterproofing concrete floors and parapets, both penofol and more traditional roofing material can be used. You can resort to the use of penetrating and coating compositions.

Flooring materials (roofing material) must be overlapped, providing high-quality sealing of seams, for which we can recommend the use of a burner. The torch will provide reliable gluing of roofing material to a surface of overlapping.

Begins to gain popularity and other material. This foil isol, which has a thickness of only 4 mm. It is a good sealant and also provides additional thermal insulation.

The choice of materials is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the work and the budget. Most often, roofing material is used for self-insulation. It has been tested by generations and is very affordable.

So how to insulate a balcony or loggia?

Now we turn to the choice of the insulation itself. In this case, it is necessary to build on the most important characteristic of such a material - this is the coefficient of thermal conductivity (delta). For thermal insulation compounds, this indicator usually ranges from 0.02 W / mS, the average value is 0.03-0.04 W / mS. The higher the value, the lower the insulating properties.

That is, you can go in two directions:

• the choice of insulation with a minimum value of the coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• increase the thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

In the first case, you will have to spend more on the material. With an increase in the thermal insulation layer, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will decrease.

T how to insulate a balcony, what materials are optimal for this?

Today, extruded polystyrene foam used for thermal insulation has become very common.

This material has excellent performance characteristics. Among the popular materials of this type are Penoplex, Technoplex.

You can resort to another method. Buy mineral wool, remembering that when using it, the layer of insulation will be thicker to provide the same result as when using polystyrene foam. And to do everything quickly and inexpensively, you can use ordinary foam sheets - this material is also often used for self-insulation of a loggia or balcony.

As an example, let's talk about extruded polystyrene foam. URSA XPS. This is a practical, high-quality insulation, very beneficial for warming the loggia. URSA XPS combines high thermal insulation performance and reduced heat loss.

URSA XPS can be used to finish floor and wall surfaces.

Another characteristic of URSA XPS is its small thickness, only 5 cm.. So, if you are still wondering what material to choose for the internal insulation of a balcony, pay attention to URSA XPS. It might just be the solution you've been looking for. It is convenient to transport it, the material does not crumble, and you can cut it with a regular knife.

For convenience of consideration and comparison of different solutions, we will compile a list with a description thermal insulation materials which can be used for our purposes.

About the nuances of warming the balcony and loggia in the video:

https://youtu.be/c6JY3f0yKvk

So, how can you insulate a balcony or loggia?

The modern building materials market provides us with a lot of options:

• mineral wool materials(basalt fiber). The fibrous structure provides a high efficiency of such a solution. The advantages of mineral wool: stability of shape and volume during operation, bio- and fire resistance, resistance to destruction under the influence of an aggressive environment, good sound and heat insulation characteristics;
• materials based on PPS(polystyrene foam). Extruded material has the highest performance. Expanded polystyrene is very light, while it has a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity. Other advantages of PPS: ease of installation, cost-effectiveness. Of the shortcomings - in the process of heating in environment harmful substances may be released;
• materials based on fiberglass. This very common option is rightfully considered traditional. Fiberglass is quite a budget solution, but its disadvantage is the high value of the thermal conductivity coefficient (as it was found higher, the higher this indicator, the worse) compared to other heaters. Materials are produced in mats and slabs, which can be conveniently used in the internal insulation of a balcony;
• reflective heat insulators. This is an innovative solution for the insulation of various structures. Reflective thermal insulation works on the principle of a thermos. The impermeable foil sheath in them is laid on foam polyethylene. Such heaters are distinguished by a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity and a sufficiently thin layer of such material for reliable insulation. Due to this, the space occupied by thermal insulation is significantly reduced.

How to fix materials

When using flooring waterproofing materials, they are glued to special compounds or (like roofing felt) they are fastened with heating of the connected parts with a burner from the fastening side.

The choice of method for fixing thermal insulation depends on the material used.

Styrofoam or polystyrene boards can be glued or mounted on plastic dowels. If glue is used, it is very important to choose the right composition, excluding toluene, which is contraindicated for use with such heaters.

Glue is applied to the mounting pad, a thin layer over the entire area. It is convenient to use a notched trowel for application. Additionally, it is possible to apply glue dropwise on the heat-insulating boards in several places.

When using dowels, they are installed along the perimeter of the slab at the rate of 8-10 points per square meter. For perfectionists, we can recommend using both fasteners at the same time: additionally fasten the initially glued plates to plastic dowels.

To seal the seams between the insulation boards, a mounting foam that does not contain toluene is used. The seams between the elements of the waterproofing layer are closed with a special self-adhesive sealant.

Mineral wool in most cases is attached only to dowels. Vapor barrier (inner waterproofing layer) is installed together with heaters on dowels or glued directly onto thermal insulation materials.

Finishing

After installing the heat and waterproofing layers, proceed to the exterior finish. To do this, it is necessary to install frames from the profile used for the installation of drywall sheets. Also, the frame can be mounted from wooden bars.

The same actions are performed when finishing walls, ceilings, parapets. But in this case, thinner materials are also suitable for the frame. 25-30 mm boards or drywall profile can be used.

After installing the frame, it must be sheathed with plasterboard sheets or clapboard.

When using lining, the balcony resembles a veranda in appearance and comfort. country house, GKL allow you to embody any creative ideas on such a surface. Self-plating a loggia or balcony with drywall allows you to then glue wallpaper on it, paint, draw, etc.

Another, quite convenient and affordable option for interior decoration of the balcony is plastic panels. Manufacturers offer the widest range of such products, with different colors and textures of the material. You can embody any design, depending on your taste and the style of the interior of the next room.

Action algorithm

Step-by-step warming of a balcony or loggia is carried out as follows:

• glazing is in progress, without which any insulation loses all meaning;
• floor insulation. At this stage, holes and slots are blown out with mounting foam, after which waterproofing is applied to the surface of the lower part of the wall and slab;
• floor leveling. To do this, you can use self-leveling building mixtures;
• laying URSA XPS boards. To seal the joints formed between the insulation plates and the walls, vapor barrier tape is used. If the joints are not sealed, during the operation of the room, moisture will collect on the walls, and this is a direct path to the development of mold and fungus;
• laying polymer concrete with a layer thickness of approx. 4 cm on which you want to install a wire reinforcing mesh;
• wall and ceiling insulation. These procedures are easier to perform than floor insulation. It is enough just to lay the URSA XPS boards and cover them with sheets of moisture-resistant drywall. Allowed use suspended ceilings, in which you can safely hide the wiring from the eyes. This ensures the lighting of the balcony;
• vapor barrier- a moment that should not be forgotten. To implement it, you can install a special vapor barrier in front of the heater. Another option - the vapor barrier is not used, but the insulation is installed with a thickness at which moisture is not formed.

Having decided to insulate the balcony with your own hands and perform all the above types of work, you will not only make the room warm and minimize heat loss from the apartment, but also protect your home from outside noise.

Pay attention to the soundproofing characteristics of your chosen double-glazed window.

An example of complex insulation of a balcony, see the video:

https://youtu.be/YKO00flP1tA

Foam insulation

So, you have already decided all the questions regarding the glazing of your balcony or loggia. Now it remains to insulate all surfaces (ceiling, floor, walls) with foam. It is advisable to use EPS.

Why is this option so popular?

It is EPPS that is the optimal solution to the problem of insulating a balcony with your own hands at an affordable price. Let's get started!

Note that the following instructions are recommended for internal insulation of the balcony. External thermal insulation it is undesirable to do it yourself. For obvious reasons, such work should be entrusted to industrial climbers with the necessary experience and equipment.

First of all, you need to prepare the work surfaces. Joints, cracks, holes are blown with mounting foam. It is important to choose a material that does not contain toluene. Irregularities are leveled with cement mortar. After that, a 50-60 mm foam sheet is attached to the surface with dowels.

To seal the joints formed between the plates, mounting foam is used.

This is how the walls and ceiling of the loggia or balcony are insulated with their own hands using foam. Next, you need to install the finish or leave the surface for wallpapering, painting, etc.

It is very important to use paint without an organic solvent on the balcony - such substances can destroy the PPS.

Work on the floor is carried out in exactly the same way, with the exception of one moment. You need to apply a screed to the foam and then, if desired, equip the underfloor heating system and finish the surface to your liking.

A few words about the warm field on the balcony (loggia)

Now let's talk about the underfloor heating system on the balcony. No matter what quality materials you use to insulate such premises, the most comfortable conditions, even in the coldest season, can only be created with the use of a heating system.

Compared to any other solutions, electric underfloor heating is the most cost-effective solution for this. The following is a brief description of the technology for making such a floor with your own hands.

So, on the floor slab of a balcony or loggia, we only have a screed, and now we need to warm this surface well. For thermal insulation, we recommend choosing a convenient and reliable extruded polystyrene foam, the properties of which have already been described above.

The thickness of the XPS board must be at least 10 cm. The plates are glued to the floor surface with glue, the joints between the individual elements are sealed with mounting foam. Now is the time to start laying electric cable for underfloor heating system. The cable is bent by hand in a shape that will cover the maximum area.

After laying the cable, a 4-5 cm screed is installed. The solution for it is prepared from cement grade m-400 and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. Tiles are laid on the screed - that's all, our “pie” is finished and a warm floor is installed on the balcony!

Finally

You can take a fresh look at your usual balcony or loggia! To implement all of the above, it will take much less effort than you might think. But the results will definitely please you: the apartment will be supplemented with a full-fledged, even habitable room, where you can comfortably sit down with a cup of coffee even in the most severe cold.

Balcony insulation step by step

Decided to insulate the loggia and do not know where to start? How to choose the best materials, how to do all the necessary work correctly? Our experts provide answers to these and other questions.

How to make a balcony warm?

First of all, you need to take care of reliable glazing of a balcony or loggia with metal-plastic profiles with double-glazed windows. Thickness of double-glazed windows - from 32 mm.

When ordering glazing from a specialized company, consider the need to install additional expansion profiles that are installed on the main structure from above and on the sides. These elements are necessary for further work on the insulation and finishing of the balcony.

After glazing, the loggia will already acquire a more presentable appearance, it will become more comfortable. But before warm room she is still far away. In cold weather, the temperature in such a room is usually a couple of degrees higher than the outside, which is not at all enough.

If you want to turn the loggia into a real living room with a comfortable microclimate, you will need to carry out a series of works on its insulation. Among these works - insulation of walls, floors, ceilings and parapets.

Preliminary work

In addition to glazing, you need to complete a series preparatory work before the direct insulation of the balcony.

Such works include the laying of a parapet, if necessary (if the existing parapet does not coincide with the upper floors in the vertical level, or if it is a metal “leaky” structure). The side walls are built from lightweight bricks or foam blocks. If it is required to perform these works, they are carried out even before the installation of double-glazed windows.

What materials are preferred?

For high-quality thermal insulation of the balcony, it is recommended to use modern heaters - rolled or extruded.

Such materials include PPE, Penoplex, Penofol, Izolon etc. All of them are distinguished by excellent heat-saving characteristics with a small thickness.

This combination of characteristics makes such solutions indispensable for thermal insulation. small areas where every centimeter of space is very important.

So what is better - polystyrene or Penoplex?

As a heater for a loggia, one and the other material can be used. The difference between them lies in the installation technology and properties. Styrofoam has a high vapor permeability, which is not the best quality for our tasks.

The thickness of the layer is also different, Penoplex in this parameter is also a more profitable material, since it saves more space.

Compared to foam plastic, foam plastic retains useful heat-saving characteristics twice as long.

We must not forget about fire safety. Styrofoam is a combustible material, and in the process of burning it also releases substances hazardous to health. Penoplex is a self-extinguishing material.

Only one point in which Penoplex loses in this comparison is the higher price compared to foam.

How to finish the walls insulated with Penoplex?

Finishing on penoplex can be done with VGKL, GKL, Knauf aquapanels. And all these materials on top can be finished at your own discretion - wallpapering, painting, puttying, etc.

How to ensure not only reliable insulation, but also soundproofing of the balcony?

For high-quality sound insulation, you can use a special material brand ISOVER

For high-quality sound insulation, you can use a special material brand ISOVER. This material has both heat and sound insulating properties. If thermal insulation is more important than noise protection, it is recommended to choose ISOVER Extra material. If it is more important to provide acoustic comfort in the room, it is better to choose "ISOVER SoundProtection".

The technology of insulation and decoration of the balcony in the video:

https://youtu.be/J6L5tZS6gN8

Is it possible to perform double-sided insulation of the loggia?

Loggia parapets can be insulated not only from the inside, but also from the outside. But this solution is not always advisable, since it is difficult to carry out such work outside at a high altitude. It is recommended to resort to insulation on both sides, if necessary, at the same time achieve a certain thickness of thermal insulation and save maximum usable space inside.

The effectiveness of thermal insulation does not depend on whether the insulation is installed only inside or on both sides, whether it is interrupted in thickness or not.

With double-sided insulation, additional vapor barrier is needed inside.

Double-sided insulation is necessary in order to preserve the space of the loggia as much as possible. So, a concrete partition 5 cm thick and external insulation with 10 cm foam. What is the best way to insulate?

For good thermal insulation, stone wool in slabs (“Light Butts”) can be used. Their thickness is 5 cm, the installation takes place in a frame mounted on the parapet. Further, everything is closed with a vapor barrier and sheathed.

How to insulate the floor on the loggia?

A common way is to arrange the floor along the lags.

First you need to install a waterproofing layer.

Excellent results are obtained by insulation with a special material "ISOVER Classic". After completing this work, you can perform finishing.

Will a heating system be needed on an insulated loggia?

Unfortunately, even with very good thermal insulation of the loggia, heat simply will not come from anywhere in the absence of an appropriate source. Insulation allows you to save heat, but heaters cannot generate it.

According to building codes, central heating on balconies and loggias is strictly prohibited, so alternative heat sources will have to be considered.

Is it necessary to install thermal insulation under the condition of installing a floor heating system?

If you install underfloor heating, thermal insulation must be used without fail. This will ensure that heat loss is kept to a minimum. Exceptions are cases in which heating mats are used.

Is it possible to install a warm floor system on the walls of a loggia?

It is permissible to use heating mats on the walls. To do this, they are attached to the surface so that the heating cable does not kink in the corners (that is, the cable cannot be bent at right angles).

The tile mixture is applied in a uniform layer without voids, otherwise overheating may occur.

Is it possible to insulate part of the loggia?

Insulation of only part of the loggia can be used if the norms of thermal insulation are observed. For this case, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene up to 50 mm thick. It is imperative to insulate not only the floor, but also the walls and ceiling. It is clear that double-glazed windows are also required.

Where does condensation form on the insulated loggia?

If you notice this negative phenomenon, most likely there is an unheated room under your loggia. Another option is insufficient thermal insulation of the outer walls.

Experts distinguish the concept of dew point - this is the temperature of air cooling at which water vapor is boundary saturated. That is, at this temperature, the relative humidity of the gas reaches 100%.

Condensation is caused by air cooling or the influx of water vapor.

Explain on practical example. If something is brought into the room from the cold, the air above it can cool to a temperature below the dew point under conditions of a certain humidity and air temperature.

In this case, condensation forms on the surface.

For typical rooms, you can roughly calculate the dew point as follows.

If the temperature of the underfloor heating on the screed is 30 degrees and the relative humidity is 60%, the dew point will be 21.4 degrees. That is, when the underfloor heating is turned off, condensate will appear when the cement is cooled to this value.

To solve the problem, you can use one of two options:

• reduce air humidity, for which air dryers, electric convectors and similar equipment are used;
• keep the screed temperature above the dew point.

If the loggia floor is not insulated, will the tiles crack on it?

If you have chosen a frost-resistant tile designed for outdoor use, then such a nuisance will not happen. It is also necessary to use a special frost-resistant glue.

But another problem may arise. If there is a non-insulated loggia below, and at the same time you have good glazing installed, then when heat escapes into the door open into the room, condensation may appear on the floor. In cold weather, it can even freeze.

The algorithm for warming and finishing the loggia in the video:

Insulation of the balcony and loggia from the inside of the room

In our country, you can observe a real boom in the insulation of balconies and loggias. This is due to the desire of people to increase the living space of cramped apartments at the expense of these premises. After all, balconies and loggias can be quite functional, instead of playing the role of cluttered outdoor pantries.

The role of the loggia can be any, it all depends on your needs and imagination, you can equip it with an office or a gym, a winter garden or just a place to relax. Often a balcony is combined with a room, making it much larger.

Repair must be carried out thoughtfully, otherwise the result will be very sad!

Since the loggia and balcony are cold rooms according to the project, their ceilings and walls do not have thermal insulation. The thermal conductivity of such walls is too high, they pass cold with very little resistance.

Warm vapors should not penetrate under the insulation, otherwise it will lead to condensation inside. As a result, the walls can freeze, frost forms on them, mold appears on the neighbors, and not the most comfortable environment is created in your apartment.

The way out of this situation will be almost hermetic thermal insulation. A vapor barrier must be installed.

So how do you properly insulate a balcony?

The transformation of cold rooms into warm ones begins with the processing of the parapet. It should be made of foam blocks or concrete. It is impossible to insulate metal parapets.

Balcony glazing should be warm, it is best to use metal-plastic profiles with double-glazed windows. More details about them can be found in the corresponding section on glazing.

After glazing, it is necessary to exclude drafts, due to which wind can walk under the thermal insulation. Foam insulation is used to seal cracks.

After these works, the surface is checked for leaks or mold. If such shortcomings are identified, they must be eliminated.

The warming process is carried out in a circle y. All surfaces are insulated, except for the wall adjacent to the room (ceiling, side walls, floor).

On the walls, it is best to use extruded XPS polystyrene foam as a heater. Foamed foil polyethylene can be used for vapor barrier and as an additional insulation.

XPS extruded polystyrene foam is a material in which polystyrene granules are mixed with a blowing agent at high temperatures and pressure, which is then extruded from an extruder.

The foaming agent in this process is usually a mixture of light freons, to which CO2 is added. After the production of the plate in the cells of the material, the residual freon is quickly replaced by air.

This structure of the material provides it with excellent thermal properties. lasting for a long time, as well as high compressive strength.

For the production of polyethylene foam, polyethylene is used high pressure, hydrocarbons are taken as a blowing agent.

The surface of the material is smooth, the structure is with small pores, there are no open-pore cells. This ensures low moisture absorption. The stiffness of the material is between the values ​​of the same indicator for foamed polystyrene and foamed rubber.

Advantages of XPS extruded polystyrene foam: high resilience, flexibility, elasticity, excellent resistance to chemical and biological degradation. The material is distinguished by high shock-absorbing performance, it is durable and environmentally friendly, resistant to shock loads, hydrophobic, and has low water absorption.

Moving from theory to practice

Now we will put into practice the selected materials - extruded XPS polystyrene foam and foil-foamed polyethylene. They are offered by different manufacturers. When choosing a particular brand, it is best to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's website, compare the characteristics of products from different brands.

Both materials can be different thickness. With an increase in the thickness of the insulation layer, the thermal conductivity decreases, the warmer it becomes in the room. That is, a thicker layer better resists heat loss to the outside.

On the websites of manufacturing companies, there are usually tables indicating all important features their products, so you can produce necessary calculations for a specific room.

However, such calculations are the prerogative of experienced engineers, and not people who have encountered such work for the first time.

Therefore, one can resort to more simple solution, based on the rules:

• on uncombined balconies and loggias, it is necessary to install polystyrene with a thickness of 30 mm or more;
• on the balconies combined with the room, polystyrene with a thickness of 50 mm or more is used.

The vapor barrier layer in the first case should be from 3 mm, in the second - from 5 mm.

These simple rules almost always work. Of course, for this it is necessary that the apartment is well heated, the windows in it are installed in compliance with all GOST standards, and the balcony has its own heat source. These parameters are suitable for climatic conditions middle lane Russia.

Polystyrene is produced in sheets of 1200x600 mm. At the edges of each plate, a step is provided to form a “warm seam” with the previous sheet, fastening takes place step by step.

Where it is impossible to install sheets with each other in this way, they are mounted end-to-end, and mounting foam is used to fill the seams. It is more convenient and economical to use a special gun for this.

The room is insulated in a circle according to the principle described above. First you need to drill the polystyrene and the wall to the required thickness, and then install the dowel in the hole. Two such fasteners are enough for each sheet.

After fixing the polystyrene plates between the wall and them, the resulting seams need to be foamed. In the same way, seams are processed, which are obtained by connecting sheets not a step to a step. Further, all seams are glued with adhesive tape.

Already after passing this stage, you will notice that the room has become much warmer.

Now you need to protect the polystyrene from the penetration of wet vapors from the room. This step is a must! Polyethylene foam foil provides not only vapor barrier. This material also reflects heat and sounds.

To install the vapor barrier, you need to roll out the roll and cut into pieces of calculated sizes. Double-sided adhesive tape is glued on the back of the material, then the vapor barrier is attached to polystyrene. When working, it is desirable to avoid overlapping joints.

The seams are sealed with foil tape. And so we got a room that already works inside on the principle of a thermos and is reliably protected from external cold.

We have completed the warming phase! It's time to start decorating the room.

Pay attention to an important addition.

Insulation can not be laid between the laths of the crate or joists.

The insulation must be integral, the heterogeneous structure of the insulation layer is not allowed. Otherwise, the formed cold bridges will subsequently negatively affect the result.

And one more important digression. Do not forget that all balconies and loggias are different rooms, houses are built from different wall materials, different heating systems are used in apartments. Accordingly, these individual characteristics must be taken into account. The use of the same materials and technologies on two completely different balconies does not guarantee an equal result.

Balconies and loggias are cold rooms from the very beginning, therefore, it would be right to simply finish them without changing the design functionality.

But if you decide to insulate one way or another, then resort to the technology described by us. It has been proven over the years own experience, optimum creation of comfort and a cosiness.

Is it possible to insulate the balcony with your own hands. Definitely possible! But you will need to stock up on strength and patience.

An example of warming a loggia with P-44T foam, see the video:

Proper insulation of the balcony

Most of our apartments are too cramped for living and many people resort to connecting rooms with kitchens, balconies, loggias, trying in this way to expand the living space. Therefore, questions about proper insulation balconies are always relevant.

If we start from the laws of physics, then the insulation of balconies must be performed on the cold side of the building envelope of any surface. At the same time, the old fence is in the zone of positive temperatures, and moisture vapor from a warm room easily passes through the insulation, does not accumulate and does not linger, but penetrates.

The multi-layer construction, together with the insulation, works reliably, and the heat-insulating characteristics do not decrease. If all the work was done correctly, the best materials were chosen, it will be very comfortable in such an apartment, which received additional usable space due to the balcony.

But in many houses, external insulation is often not possible. Therefore, it is necessary to resort to internal insulation of balconies and loggias.

At first glance, this is the simplest task. It is enough to buy a heater, stick it to the wall, sheathe it with sheet materials, install a heat source - and that's it, for many years of comfort and warmth are provided.

Everything is not as simple as it seems.

If you have already insulated your balcony or loggia in this way, you probably noticed that in cold weather condensation appears near the wall - water taken from nowhere.

Condensation on the floor - where does it come from?

Internal insulation of a heated balcony transfers the building envelope to the area of ​​negative temperatures, which are always below the dew point. At the same time, moisture vapor from a warm room (when moving from an area of ​​high to an area of ​​low partial pressure) passes through the installed heat-insulating layer as more loose and stops at a dense cold fence. Steam condenses on a cold plane. Further, after the transition of the steam into a drop-liquid state, depending on the weather conditions and microclimatic indicators in the apartment, the process turns into the wetting of the fence and insulation.

The insulation loses a significant part of its heat-saving characteristics, with an increase in wetting, the material becomes unable to retain water and it flows out of the wall.

Even if water does not flow out of the wall, this is not a reason to rejoice, because the thermal insulation gets wet anyway, its properties are lost. Favorable conditions are created for the development of mold fungus. Thus, the meaning of insulation is lost - it seems to be there, but at the same time it is not there.

And what to do, how to avoid such troubles?

There is a way out of this situation. We will consider two solutions that allow you to insulate a balcony or loggia from the inside and at the same time avoid the described phenomenon.

According to the first option, you will need to install a special vapor barrier in front of the heater. This will prevent the penetration of water vapor into the insulation. This is reliable way even when using insulation with maximum vapor permeability (for example, if mineral wool is used for thermal insulation). For this option, dry construction technology is recommended, which occurs according to the method of wall cladding.

At the same time, instead of drywall and metal profiles, it is enough to use PVC or MDF bars and wall panels.

The vapor barrier is polyethylene film, foil or membranes specially designed for such tasks. Internal insulation involves the installation of a structure in the form of a “pie” with the same order of layers (the same for walls, floors and ceilings).

The advantage of the first method is that there are practically no wet processes during operation, with the exception of the stage of filling the seams and joints between the gypsum boards. The disadvantage of the method is the lack of the ability to “breathe” in such a system.

According to the second option, the vapor barrier is not installed separately, but the insulation is performed using certain materials with minimal vapor permeability. These materials include conventional and extruded polystyrene foam.

According to the second method, mineral wool, which has too high vapor permeability, cannot be used.

In this case, it is necessary to choose such a thickness of the insulation at which moisture will not accumulate - that is, at which the necessary resistance to vapor permeation is provided.

Let's take an example. When using ordinary expanded polystyrene with a density value of 25 kg / m3, according to the standards given in SNiP, the thickness of the insulation should be from 80 mm. This thickness will also provide good heat saving.

If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the calculation is carried out taking into account the much lower vapor permeability of such material (3-10 times, depending on the manufacturer, lower than that of conventional polystyrene foam). Accordingly, a 30 mm layer of such insulation is sufficient to achieve the same result.

But this thickness is insufficient if we talk about the thermal protection of the room. For achievement optimal performance it is recommended to install extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 50-60 mm. In general, to determine the required thickness of the insulation, it is required to carry out a heat engineering calculation of the building envelope, which takes into account local standards and climatic features.

Both types of expanded polystyrene are attached to a brick or concrete base using special compounds. For example, you can use Knauf-Sevener or Ceresit ST85.

When the primary hardening of the glue has occurred, the plates are also fixed with dowels-fungi.

On the surface of expanded polystyrene plates, it is necessary to equip a protective reinforced layer, created from the same adhesive composition.

The glue is applied to a sheet of expanded polystyrene, which must first be processed with coarse sandpaper. Layer thickness 2-3 mm. Alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 5x5 mm is embedded in this layer. Immediately on top of the grid you need to apply a second layer of adhesive.

The fiberglass mesh should be inside between the layers of glue, it should not be applied immediately to the insulation and glued to it with glue. In this case, it will not be able to perform the reinforcement function assigned to it.

When the reinforced layer hardens, you can start puttying the surface, and then paint it, glue wallpaper, plaster with decorative compositions with different textures, etc.

An example of insulating a balcony with polystyrene foam in a video: