Do-it-yourself scaffolding: a reliable assistant for repair work. Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood (photo). How to make scaffolding with your own hands? Make your own scaffolding simple

Many works in the construction, maintenance and repair of private houses have to be carried out at height. To facilitate and make the process of performing such activities safer, scaffolding, which is easy to purchase in ready-made or assemble by hand. Independently, such structures are made from profile pipes or from wooden elements according to fairly simple schemes.

The main elements of scaffolding made of wood and metal

Scaffolding (SL) is an auxiliary supporting structure. They are used for mounting wall siding and roofing, filing gables, installing gutters, decorating the facades of private houses, and performing other events. Do-it-yourself scaffolding is made of wood or metal. Regardless of the material used, they consist of the following main elements:

Vertical racks. These parts take the load from the structure and transfer it to the ground.
Jumpers. Parts of the structure that serve for the installation of the flooring. Jumpers are installed on the sides of the scaffolding.
Ties. They are horizontal and diagonal. They are necessary to give the SL frame maximum spatial rigidity.
Railing. They are the simplest fence that protects a person performing construction work from falling from a height.
Flooring. The structure is made of boards knocked together. The flooring serves as a working platform.
Stairs. Allow builders to climb up and down scaffolding.
Stubborn cuts. Important element structure to prevent it from tipping over.

Wood scaffolding is easier to assemble. They are light in weight. Their parts are attached to each other with screws or nails. But wooden structures not suitable for heavy loads. The dismantling of such scaffolding takes a long time. They are allowed to subsequently collect a few more times to perform high-altitude work. But the strength of re-mounted structures is reduced, since holes from hardware remain in the beams and boards.

SL from profile pipe much more reliable. They are quickly dismantled and then promptly assembled, retaining their initially high strength characteristics. If necessary, they can be increased with additional elements.

Types of structures and their performance characteristics

All scaffolding is divided into several types depending on the design and the fasteners used to assemble them. There are the following types of structures described:

Frame.
Pin.
Wedge.
Suspended.
Clamp.

Frame structures are strong and durable in operation. They are made from metal parts with low weight (for example, from aluminum pipes). Such scaffolding has several vertical frames, which are reinforced with spacers. Often they are equipped with wheels to quickly move the structure along the surface to be treated (walls of the house, gable).

Pin scaffolding is clumsy and heavy. They are considered the most stable and durable. Gathered from metal pipes, connected into a single structure by socket locking elements and welding (with its help, curved pieces of reinforcing bars are welded to the structure). Pin SLs are recommended for brick (stone) masonry, as they can easily withstand the heavy weight of the materials used.

Wedge scaffolds are mobile and strong enough. They combine the advantages of pin and frame structures. This is achieved through the use of special fasteners-holders, which are special slotted flanges. Wedge SL are optimal for the installation of complex facades and their maintenance.

Suspended structures, called cradles by home craftsmen, are used when decorating walls with tiles and other types of facing materials, for washing facade windows. They are not very functional, which cannot be said about clamp structures. The latter are recognized by experts as universal structures. Making clamp scaffolding is not at all easy. But with their help it will be possible to process (decorate, repair) buildings of the most complex and unusual configuration. Such structures, if necessary, easily change their shape vertically and horizontally.

Reliable wooden construction - how to do it yourself?

Frame wooden scaffolding is assembled from boards with a section of 10x5, 3–5 cm thick and a beam of 10x10 cm. A circular saw, a drill and a hammer are required from the tool. Nails (self-tapping screws) are used to fasten structural parts. Marking work is carried out with a tape measure and a building level. Boards with a thickness of 3 cm are designed to create stiffeners, 5 cm - for the construction of flooring. The scaffold drawing is developed taking into account the following requirements:

The maximum height of the structure is 600 cm, length - 400.
The minimum deck width is 100 cm.
The distance between the supporting posts of the structure is 200–250 cm.

For the construction of scaffolding, well-dried wood is taken. It does not allow the presence of cracks and other defects. All wooden elements are treated with solutions that prevent the development of mold and decay. Work begins with the manufacture of frames. According to the planned height of the SL, four beams are cut. The resulting blanks are placed on a flat piece of land. Two beams 360 and 400 cm long are attached to the support beams (from the inside). The second are fixed along the lower edge of the supports, the first - along the top. The result is two trapezoidal frames. They are reinforced with struts. The installation of the latter is carried out diagonally.

Frames are lifted from the ground, placed vertically, connected (temporarily) by sidewalls. The distance between the upper edges of the support posts is taken as 100 cm, between the lower ones - 115 cm. The level checks the accuracy of the horizontal mounting of the sidewalls. The made frame is connected into one piece with self-tapping screws or nails. It is preferable to use nails as fasteners. They are made from soft metal heavy load does not break, but bends. Self-tapping screws are made from hardened steel, which is characterized by increased fragility. If variable or tangible shock loads act on the scaffolding, such fasteners break. This causes the SLs to fall apart.

The flooring is made from boards. They are attached to the transverse upper bars. The boards are mounted without gaps - the denser they lie, the more reliable the construction will be. On the sides of the structure, additional crossbars are being installed. These jumpers give the structure additional rigidity and serve as stairs.

Metal scaffolding - how many years are they designed for?

Profile pipe structures consist of 2–4 sections 160–200 long, 100 wide and 150 cm high. The specific number of the latter depends on the height and length of the house. Sections are made with aluminum or steel racks. In cases where scaffolding will take on serious loads, it is better to build them from steel. To assemble a metal structure, you need a welding unit, an electric drill, a level, a grinder, fasteners (bolts and self-tapping screws). Scaffold decking is made of edged boards (recommended thickness is 4 cm). Supports, crossbars, adapters and other parts of the structure are made of round and shaped pipes with a section of 1.5, 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm.

Spacers are cut from 1.5 cm diameter products. Diagonal parts are made 200 cm long, horizontal - 96 cm. Cuts are made at the ends of the pipes (two meters). Their length is 6 cm. After that, the tubular products are flattened at the points of cuts. The operation is performed to facilitate the connection of the bearing supports-racks and struts.

Pipes with a section of 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm are cut into segments 8 and 30 cm long, respectively. Adapters are made from the obtained blanks - special elements for increasing the height of the SL. Segments of shorter length are put on longer ones and welded together.

With the help of spacers and vertical racks, two frames are created. It is not difficult to make them - you should weld the spacers to the racks every 0.3 m of the length of the latter. The result is products that visually resemble stairs.

Plates measuring 7x7 cm are welded to the lower ends of the supports. They are cut from sheet steel. The plates will not allow the massive structure to fall under its own weight and the weight of the people working on it into the ground. If necessary, wooden bars are additionally placed under these plates during the use of scaffolding.

Welded frames are placed vertically. The fixing points of the diagonal braces are determined. Holes are made in the marked places with an electric drill. Bolts are screwed into them. All parts of the scaffolding are connected. After that, the horizontalness of the crossbars must be checked using a level. In the presence of a skew, parts of the SL are adjusted. It is forbidden to operate a home-made structure with non-horizontal crossbars due to its low stability.

Fabrication of flooring and painting of pipe structures

The flooring of metal scaffolding is made of boards. They are laid across or along the section. In the first case, wooden blanks are fixed to pipes that are installed on the sides of the scaffolding (fastening is done with bolts). In the longitudinal direction, it is allowed to lay boards with a length of more than 200 cm. They are knocked into one flooring (without gaps) and reinforced from deflection by transverse bars. The latter are mounted below the boards.

At the ends of the flooring, a U-shaped metal profile is mounted. Its width is 1.7–2 cm. The profile is cut to the size of the flooring and fixed to the latter with self-tapping screws. This design eliminates the possibility of shifting the boards.

Scaffolding from a profile pipe is used repeatedly. They are easily disassembled and assembled as needed. To prolong their service life, it is recommended to paint SL. Painting is carried out according to a simple scheme:

all elements of scaffolding are carefully sanded;
metal surfaces are dedusted;
pipes are primed.

After the soil dries, painting is carried out. It is advisable to apply a layer of paint on the flooring from the boards, having previously treated the wood with an antiseptic composition.

It will not be difficult for the owner of a private house to make scaffolding with his own hands, if he has the skills to handle welding equipment and various tools. Prefabricated structures are needed to organize work on cladding and repair of surfaces of facades of buildings at a height. The structure is erected around the entire perimeter of the house or at one of the walls of the facade.

Scaffolding is assembled from metal rods, timber, boards and wooden shields. The construction of the structures is a frame of vertical supporting elements with horizontal braces. Platforms are floorings made of wooden boards or other materials. message between different levels construction is carried out with the help of stairs. Forests are made up of structural elements, such as:

Shoes.
Vertical racks and horizontal connections.
Flooring.
Railing.
Stairs.
Net.

shoes

Supports for vertical racks are shoes (thrust bearings). Usually these are metal platforms with vertical nests for racks. For horizontal correction of shoes, gaskets and rolling shoes made of wood or metal are used.

Shoes are the final structural elements of scaffolding, transferring the entire load from the structure to the soil base. Before erecting scaffolding, it is necessary to accurately determine the places for supports. The surfaces of the sites must be in the same horizon, otherwise the facade fencing will warp, and the structure will become unusable. To prepare the support sites, a level or laser level is used.

Vertical racks and horizontal connections

Racks perform the main load-bearing function. For forests of low height within 2 - 3 storey building use a wooden beam. Much more often used racks of metal pipes.

Vertical supports are installed in stages - as horizontal connections are installed. Connection nodes between frame elements are performed in several ways. The main requirement for fastenings is to ensure the safe presence of people on the sites of structures.

Flooring

Work platforms are formed from wooden, steel and aluminum panels. The flooring is laid on horizontal frames formed by frame elements.

The flooring, in addition to the role of supporting platforms, performs the function of connecting elements that ensure the rigidity of the entire scaffold frame.

railing

All openings facing outward must have railings. Fences are made of timber 50 × 50 mm. The railing is located at a height from the flooring within 1.1 - 1.2 m.

stairs

Transitions between different levels of the sites are made by installing stairs. Stairs can be completely wooden or welded from a steel profile. Dural ladders are not uncommon in the arrangement of forests.

It is advisable to install the stairs at an angle of no more than 450. This allows the worker to easily move from one floor to another, while carrying any load.

Net

According to requirements building codes and rules (SNiP), all forests must be covered with a net. The mesh is a fine mesh polymer coating green (international standard).

The grid performs several functions simultaneously:

Prevents accidental fall of workers.
Prevents various objects from falling out of the working area.
Protects from bright sunlight.
Protects the facade of the building during painting work from the penetration of dust from the outside.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands

There are certain standards for wooden scaffolding. The distance between the posts along the facade of the building is made from 2 to 2.5 m. The width of the flooring, which determines the transverse dimension between the outer and inner fencing of the scaffolding, must be at least 1 m. The height of the wooden structure must be up to 6 m.

To build a lumber frame, you will need the following materials and tools:

Hand or circular saw.
Hammer and pincers.
Roulette and level.
Nails.
Wooden beam with a section of 100 × 100 mm, 50 × 50 mm.
Boards with a section of 100 × 30 mm, 100 × 40 mm.

The thickness of lumber may be different, but not less than the above dimensions. Lumber must be dry, without large knot formations and cracks. Under no circumstances should raw wood be used. In addition to the fact that a wet tree has a lot of weight, it can significantly deform when it dries.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

On a flat area, 4 beams are laid, cut to the size of the height of the scaffolding.
Every 2 beams are placed between each other at the width of the flooring.
Racks are knocked down with nails by crossbars. The transverse lower beams are fixed at the rate of not more than 50 cm from the ground. The top beams should be level with the deck.
The resulting frames are laid on their side, securing the position with temporary supports.
The frames are connected by two boards diagonally.
The structure is turned over to the other side and the steps to secure the diagonal ties are repeated.
During assembly, the dimensions of the openings are constantly monitored with a tape measure.
Platforms from pieces of board are nailed to the supports from below.
On the places where the forests will stand, roofing felt or roofing material is laid.
The scaffold is raised to a vertical position in such a way that the legs of the structure fit exactly into the intended places.
With the help of linings, the vertical marks of the supporting platforms are corrected.
Install the flooring. The flooring is a downed longitudinal boards with a transverse beam.
Floor boards are nailed to the cross beams of the frame frames.
On the outside of the scaffolding above the flooring, railings from boards are nailed.
Install a ladder leading to the upper platform.
For convenient and safe movement of workers, a railing for the stairs is installed.
As the structure is erected, based on the individual characteristics of the facade, temporary fixation of the scaffolding can be applied with the help of additional connections with the elements of the building. These are struts, slopes and so on.

At the end of the work, the forests are dismantled into separate elements that can serve to meet other needs of the household plot.

Types of homemade scaffolding from metal pipes

The supporting structures of metal profile scaffolding may differ in the way the load-bearing elements are connected. These are wedge, clamp and pin fasteners.

Wedge scaffolding

Connection nodes include support platforms with mounting holes, which include wedge-shaped holders of support elements. Making such designs yourself is quite difficult and expensive.

Clamp fasteners

The frame rods are fastened with special clamps. The process is quite laborious and time consuming. The advantage of clamp scaffolding is that the structures can “hug” the facades of the most complex configuration without carrying out any complex work.

Pin designs

Due to the simplicity of design and high reliability, pin scaffolds are especially popular with home craftsmen. They are quickly assembled and disassembled. This feature of pin structures attracts amateur craftsmen.

Manufacture and assembly of pin scaffolding

Before you start making multi-level pipe scaffolding, you need to prepare the following tools and materials.

Tools:

Electrical block.
Corner machine (Bulgarian).
Electric drill.
Bending device.
Level.

Materials:

Steel pipes ø 48 mm.
Steel pipes ø 20 mm.
Steel sheet 12 mm thick.
Smooth reinforcement ø 16 mm.
Wooden beam 40×40 mm.

Step-by-step instruction

Smooth reinforcement is cut into segments, 40 cm long.
On the bending device, the pieces of reinforcement are bent at an angle of 450, receiving support pins.
The device for bending the pins is made from two pieces of pipe. One is welded to a massive metal blank. Half a piece of smooth reinforcement is inserted into the pipe. A long piece of pipe is put on the other end of the pin and the reinforcement is bent.
A pipe ø 48 mm is cut into racks, equal in length to the height of the scaffolding.
Sleeves 200 mm long are cut from a pipe ø 20 mm with a grinder.
A tape measure and a marker mark the places for welding vertical sleeves.
The sleeves are welded to the vertical posts. On the corner supports, the sleeves are placed at an angle of 900 between them.
On ordinary racks, 3 sleeves are welded - in the center and on the sides.
Pins are attached to the horizontal sections of the pipe by welding, the free ends of which are turned down.
Shoes made of sheet steel measuring 20 × 20 cm are welded to the lower ends of the racks.
The height of the nests (sleeves) is set in each individual case. Usually nests are placed at a distance of 2 m from each other vertically.
The horizontal opening is made from 1.5 to 2 m.
Shields are knocked down from boards and timber with nails, which will serve as flooring.
Where the flooring will rest on the extreme beam, 2 pieces of timber are nailed to the bottom of the shield. Wooden pieces are nailed to the boards in such a way that the beam from the pipe passes between them. This will give additional stability to the entire frame of the scaffolding.
In the joints of the shields, segments from a steel angle are welded to the transverse beam on both sides so that the horizontal shelves of the angles are flush with the pipe.
Pins of horizontal connections are inserted into the nests.
In places where stair passages will be adopted, openings are left between the flooring boards.
If it is necessary to lengthen the racks in height, then sleeves from pipes of a larger diameter are welded to the upper ends of the supports, which form the nests for attaching the upper racks.
Ladders are welded from segments of the same pipes.
Racks lead to a vertical position.
The pins are inserted into the sockets.
Lay the flooring.
Install stairs.

The forests are ready for use. At any time, the structure can be quickly dismantled and its elements stored.

Clamp scaffold assembly

Structures of this type do not require welding. All connections are made by hand using steel clamps. Of the tools, only wrenches are required.

Along with this, it should be noted that the installation and removal of clamps require a significant amount of time. Clamps are quite expensive. The assembly of such scaffolding will require a large number of fasteners, which will significantly affect the cost of structures.

Painting metal scaffolding

When preparing pipe elements before installation, the structures are cleaned of rust. To do this, it is good to use a grinder with an emery wheel.

After that, the structures are primed with an agent for outdoor work on metal. Dried pipes are covered with two layers of paint intended for steel products.

With intensive use of scaffolding, metal elements are tinted once a year. If the scaffolding is stored disassembled, then the products are tinted as needed. Store scaffolding in a dry ventilated area.

Armenian forests

This is the popular name for simple devices in the form of wooden scaffolds. For laying walls made of bricks or cinder blocks one-story houses, use a simple fixture, which is triangles with a right angle.

The triangular structure consists of two wooden panels, between which a console is placed on the axis. The console at one end presses the vertical structure with one of the legs against the wall of the building, and at the other end rests against the ground. Two such structures form horizontal platforms on which the flooring is supported.

Do-it-yourself "Armenian scaffolds" are far from safe, and they must be treated with caution. The owner, using such scaffolding, puts his health at risk.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be rented out, which will quickly pay for all the costs of manufacturing structures. When working at height, it is imperative to comply with safety requirements.

If you have a need to perform work on the facade, you need to do without scaffolding.

They are temporary structures metal constructions, which are used in construction, finishing and restoration work on buildings and structures. The advantages of these structures are that their installation and dismantling is carried out directly on construction sites. If necessary, the structure can be easily moved along the wall. In addition, building scaffolds are a convenient structure for temporary use, being on which you can perform work related to the facade: insulation, finishing, painting. You can perform minor work on the restoration of wooden window frames, make slopes of window openings.

Not only professional builders, but also many ordinary summer residents, as well as owners of private houses and country cottages need to purchase scaffolding with removable decking (scaffolding) - after all, when it will be necessary to tint the roof gables or renew facade finishing at home, you may need not just a ladder or stepladder, but something more serious.

Scaffolding on "envelopes" has recently become quite a popular design option that you can make yourself. As you can see in the photos below, these scaffolds have a wide range of applications, from masonry production to finishing works. Due to the simplicity and cheapness of their design, it is easy to organize paving at the desired height and perform painting, whitewashing, surface restoration, window cleaning, installation of slopes and trim, etc.

Why is this option popular among builders?

The main advantage is that the scaffolding can be made independently. At the same time, not much building material is spent at all. Well, plus everything: simplicity and ease of assembly / disassembly of the structure. After completing the work, they disassemble and fold until better times in a secluded corner of the barn.

What are scaffolding with "envelopes" made of?

"Envelope" is a scaffolding, which is a support platform in the form of a triangle. Supports are made from various lumber that is on the construction site, for example, edged boards. The main thing is that the board is strong, with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. (see fig. 1).

Rice. 1, Supporting platform - "envelope". 1 - L-shaped bracket; 2 - jibs.

Then, it is necessary to build L-shaped brackets - the boards are knocked down, after which they are sheathed on the sides with wooden slats.

The dimensions of the site must be constructed based on the safe operation of the structure. On the support platform, it is not large in size, it is quite inconvenient to work, and besides, you will often have to move it. Having made scaffolds of a large area, you can expose yourself to a traumatic situation, there is a possibility of envelopes tearing off the wall. Taking this into account, the size of the platform must be calculated in this way: the size of a human leg is on average 350-400 mm, taking this size of the horizontal platforms of the scaffold, a person can become a full foot, while not being afraid to fall from a height.

Now that the platform is ready, the support platform is fixed, it remains to set it to the desired height so that you can reach the required level. You will also need a couple of props, it is quite possible to use edged board 150x50 mm. Before installing them, the supports must be made sharp at the base so that they rest against the ground, and the upper ends along the contour of the "envelope" cornerslightly beveled for a tight fit, as shown in Figure 2.

Rice. 2 Installation of scaffolds: 1 - prop-slightly; 2 - "envelope"; 3 - flooring boards; 4 - supporting surface.

Then, after the flooring from the "envelopes" is raised to the required height, it must be fixed. The vertical part of the L-bracket should be nailed to the wall with ordinary long nails. It is advisable not to hammer the nails all the way, otherwise it will be difficult to pull them out during dismantling.

Now you can lift and install the flooring itself. The boards are laid at the desired height and nailed to the horizontal shelf of the brackets. Nails in these places can be driven completely into the boards, this will make the structure more durable.

Advice: to make it easier to get the nails, they can be driven into the boards through thin spacer rails; when dismantled, they are simply split with a nail puller.

!Attention Be careful when working at height. Follow the safety precautions for. Remember that when making your own construction scaffolding, it is necessary to check the strength of each of the structural nodes.

During construction work outside and inside the premises (if they have high ceilings), scaffolding is often needed - it is not necessary to carry out drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repair

Scaffolding is widely used in construction and repair. Even the usual do-it-yourself wall plastering it is not easy to carry out without them, and the installation of a roof or wall siding becomes a very difficult task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily put together goat-stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement along the facade or the wall being repaired of everything you need. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs - the main benefit from scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so that their cost can be entered in the column "payment for the speed and convenience of repair."

Any design of scaffolding must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and Supplies. If there is even the slightest doubt that the scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a finished, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such products is quite diverse.

Scaffolding classification

The very term "forests" is associated with the historical experience of finishing facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter "shelves" were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to posterity only its name and the principle of construction.

Modern options are based on a frame and are made taking into account reusable use. Structurally, scaffolding can be performed in the following options:

Pin forests - from steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. Heavy and clumsy, it takes a lot of time to assemble and move - but very strong. For example, stone or brickwork it is best to do it with them. Pin scaffolding can be loaded with a large number of heavy building materials, they are very stable and durable;
Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and/or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a solid frame. They may have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plaster or balcony siding- when the weight of building materials is small, and the work is associated with fast moving along (up and down) the object being repaired;
Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. Withstand heavy loads and are mobile at the same time. Fastener nodes are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
Clamp scaffolding - universal structures of small carrying capacity for the repair and restoration of curved facades;
Suspended - the well-known "cradles", with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. Between two stationary scaffolding, a structure without ground support can also be suspended.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only purchased, their independent "production" is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with their own hands with the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step by step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material- the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are quite doable on their own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and battens.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step by step diagram

Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood

To work, you will need several types of wood. Bearing supports are made of timber 10x10 cm in size (a smaller section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from scaffolding). Horizontal floorings are knocked together from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffeners - from boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more. Fencing rails with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. Wood for supports and platforms should be free of knots and cracks, it should be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.

Step 2: Frame planning

The end sides of the wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not interfere with the repair of walls.

In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports from a 10x10 cm beam that are solid, and not composite - then the strength of the multi-storey structure will be higher. The minimum allowable width of homemade wood scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise the risk of overturning the scaffolding during operation is high. For work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a planer, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Building the frame

Two beams with a height of not more than 6 meters are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two fit right next to each other. The upper part of the bars should slightly converge upwards for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding at the bottom convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then from above it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapeziums.

Sidewalls from a bar are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, so they are mounted from the inside. In general, wooden scaffolding own production can have no more than three "mounting floors", so there will be only four sidewalls from a bar. Three correspond to the levels of the forests, and the lower one serves for strength, it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: Making a three-dimensional frame

To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (and preferably two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the docking accuracy will certainly suffer. Side crossbars are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The fact is that sustainable forests should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required angle of convergence is small, otherwise between top scaffolding and the facade being repaired, an inconvenient gap will appear. Say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be enough.

Having installed the wooden sidewalls vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side crossbars with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work, the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and folded in a barn or garage.

Step 5: Final and optional

It remains to nail boards for flooring and a fence above each platform to the transverse bars. On the sides of the scaffolding, additional crossbars can be filled, which will act as stairs. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching scaffolding to earthen soil - it is removed on flat surfaces, and the whole structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.

It is difficult to imagine a construction site without scaffolding. With them, walls are erected and finished, roofs are made, gutters are installed, etc. In each case, they must be strong and reliable. If renting factory-made scaffolding is expensive, make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands. This is often done in individual construction, where the height of houses rarely exceeds two floors. How to assemble these simple designs, this article will tell

Types of scaffolding

Construction scaffolds are made entirely of wood or metal pipes combined with boards.

On a note! Homemade scaffolding should not be subjected to heavy loads. No more than 2 people are allowed on them at the same time.

Scaffold materials

For the construction of frame scaffolding, steel racks and frames will be required. The flooring is made from wooden planks. Aluminum structures are lighter and can withstand less stress. For one section, the following dimensions are recommended:

height - 150 cm,
width - 100 cm,
length - 165-200 cm.

The number of sections determines the height of the building and the perimeter of the outer walls of the house.

A simple option for homemade scaffolding

Before proceeding with the assembly of frame scaffolding, the following materials should be purchased:

profile for vertical racks with a square section of 3x3 cm and a length of 150 cm;
pipe (diameter 15 mm) for the installation of horizontal and diagonal struts;
profile for connecting inserts with a square section of 2.5x2.5 cm (the flooring rests on them) and fences;
boards for flooring 2-2.5 m long and 4-5 cm thick;
a ladder for lifting (if there is no finished product, it is assembled from a profile and placed between the side posts);
bolts with nuts and washers for connecting structural elements;
self-tapping screws for fastening wooden elements.

Note! In the course of work, you will have to use a hacksaw or grinder, a drill with a drill for metal, a welding machine. Connections can also be made with special threaded fasteners.

Frame construction rules

Before starting the assembly of scaffolding, the ground should be carefully compacted in the area where they are placed. When carrying out work in the rainy season, it is desirable to make a drainage system. So the soil under the scaffolds will not be washed away, and the structure will remain initially strong and reliable. For the stability of the structure, boards are placed under the support posts.

Wooden frames designed for light weight

Important! Even a small play at the joints or incompletely screwed threads can cause the scaffold to tilt or collapse, and this poses a danger to people's lives.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is assembled in the following sequence.

Cut pipe blanks - for diagonal struts 2 meters long, and for horizontal struts - 1 meter. Pay attention! Two-meter spacers are cut 7-8 cm from each end and flattened. In the future, this will simplify the connection of parts to the profile.
Connect the two vertical posts together with spacers. Make sure they are in a horizontal position.
Connect the horizontal sections of the scaffolding with ties (the distance between them should be 30 cm). Subsequently, you will lay the boards on them.
Fasten the connecting elements.
Drill holes for the bolts on the supports and racks.
Finally assemble the structure from the profile pipe (fix the boards with self-tapping screws).
Clean the scaffolding and cover it with paint.
Check the drawings according to which scaffolding was made from pipes with your own hands.

On a note! Temporary structures from several sections are connected by adapters. To do this, cut off 8-10 cm pipes with a section of 3x3 cm, thread a section of the profile with a section of 2.5x2.5 cm into it. The parts are connected by welding.

The feasibility of facilities

Some people are concerned about the question of whether it is advisable to make scaffolding on their own. The following arguments are presented as an argument against them.

Scaffolding is not a small structure, like a scaffolding goat. And this bulky structure after the completion of construction will need to be stored somewhere.

After completion of the work, the wooden scaffolding is dismantled, but this takes a lot of time. Boards, if they are not urgently needed, will also have to be folded somewhere. It should be borne in mind that wood scaffolding is knocked down with nails, and not assembled using self-tapping screws. Boards after such disassembly will not remain intact, moreover, they are often stained with mortar or paint.

Temporary structures of their pipes can be rented out

Note! Do-it-yourself metal scaffolding can be rented out.

Home-made construction scaffolds are used for work that is carried out at a height not higher than the second floor. With a higher number of storeys, the use of such scaffolding is associated with a danger to the life of workers.
The need for this design rarely arises (when repairing the facade). At the same time, you have to spend a lot of time on its assembly and disassembly, which may seem unprofitable.
Often long temporary structures are required, made of a profile pipe. They differ in considerable weight and it is difficult to rearrange them even for a group of people from 3-4 people.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is a matter of personal choice. They help at different stages of construction and after completion of construction can be rented out. So you pay for your labor and materials.