Grouting tile joints with your own hands. Grout for bathroom tiles – choose quality. Choosing the composition of the grout mixture

Wall and floor covering tiles in the bathroom - a traditional type of decoration in rooms with high humidity. The gaps formed between the tiles are filled with special materials.

They maintain the tightness and integrity of the coating for many years. How to grout joints DIY bathroom tiles? The answers to this and other questions will be found in this article.

What type of grout is there?

Before rubbing seams, you should understand what grout is, what it comes in, and how to use it correctly. Grout – special building material, designed to fill gaps between finishing parts. It serves practical purposes, creates a certain decorative effect. Depending on the component composition, grouts can be cement, epoxy, or silicone. The most popular are the first 2 types.

Cement grout is made using Portland cement. It consists of cement clinker, gypsum, mineral additives.

Thanks to these ingredients, it acquires the necessary plasticity, viscosity, strength, and moisture resistance. IN wide range it is produced by the German company Cerezit (products CE33 Super, CE35, CE40 Aquastatic).

Epoxy grout for tiles is a two-component composition. It is more effective than cement filler, as it is used as decorative and moisture-proof material. This tile joint filler contains a hardener (cement) and epoxy resin. For tiling bathroom surfaces, the use of epoxy products is optimal. They have a number of advantages:

excellent resistance to moisture: droplets of liquid roll into balls and do not penetrate inside;
special strength, high degree of hardening;
long service life in aggressive environments: 10 years or more;
no cracks during hardening;
use of chemical components that are harmless to health;
excellent decorative characteristics: wide range of colors.

Attention! Colored epoxy grouts do not lose their shade from bright sunlight and do not fade from water.

When using this filler, work is carried out quickly: it has high speed solidification. For application, special tools are used that require certain skill. If you need to remove the product, you will have to remove it along with the tiles.

The most popular two-component fillers are Fuga Epoxi 710, Cerezit CE44. These are expensive but highly effective products.

Used in construction silicone, latex, furan fillers tile joints. They have good decorative properties, but are slightly inferior in basic characteristics of cement and epoxy materials. They are rarely used in bathrooms.

On construction markets You can buy expensive and budget formulations from famous brands. In addition to the German Ceresit, grout ceramic tiles produced by the Italian company Malay and the Polish concern Atlas. Products from Finnish Kiilto and Italian Litochrome are in consumer demand.

Attention! Before choosing a grout, you should read the information about it and consult with specialists. Epoxy fillers are difficult to work with. To acquire the skill, you should try other types first.

Do-it-yourself grout for seams

Gap Filler tiles you can do it yourself. To do this, just buy a dry mixture. It is diluted with water or liquid latex in the proportions specified by the manufacturer. The result should be a viscous, plastic mass. It is made in plastic container using a mixer (drill with a special attachment).

Homemade grout can be made from cement. Many masters use it.

Components:

Portland cement M 300-400 – 1 part;
sifted sand - 3 parts;
water.

Preparation

Cement and sand mix thoroughly with each other.
Gradually add water Using a power tool, mix the solution until the components are completely dissolved and a homogeneous mass is obtained.
The resulting composition leave for 15-20 minutes. Then they start working with it.

This mixture is used for finishing floors and walls in bathrooms. To obtain colored material, a tint agent (dye) is added to the water.

Carrying out processes for filling tile joints

Experts know how to properly grout tiles. They willingly share the secrets of the correct use of plastic materials and advise performing the work step by step.

Preparatory process

At the preparation stage collect tools(devices) and make a solution according to the instructions (if a dry mixture is used):

container (bucket, basin);
rubber spatula (scraper with a rubber attachment, a piece of thick linoleum);
paint roller (paint brush);
jointing (toothbrush);
sponge, piece of cloth.

For protection you will need p rubber gloves, goggles, respirator.

A novice craftsman may find it useful to use a construction bag for grouting joints with his own hands.

It reminds pastry bag, which has a hole in the bottom with a nozzle. Through it, the mixture flows freely into the spaces between the tiles.

The master has the ability to control the quantity extruded composition. The tiles practically do not get dirty.

Attention! Using a bag is especially good for grouting the seams of clinker tiles with your own hands. It has a textured front surface, which is difficult to clean from mixture residues.

Grouting work

Before applying tile grout over the entire area of the bathroom, make a control sample. Prepare part of the composition and fill the gaps in a small area with it. Allow the material to set. If something is not satisfactory, the composition is adjusted according to consistency, shade, degree of filling.

The main work is performed in the following order:

The finished composition is scooped with a spatula onto a piece of plywood or another spatula;
rubber product take part of the mixture and fill the seam with it, carefully running it along the edges of adjacent tiles;
using jointing compact the building mixture and add material when voids form;
wipe the tiles with a damp sponge (rag), removing any remaining residue;
After the aggregate has hardened, the tiles can be washed.

In this way they perform work on walls and floors. A video of the work performed by professionals will show you how to properly grout tiles in the bathroom.

Important points

During operation The grout may crack and fall out. This is due to the characteristics of the room, shrinkage of the material, its low quality, and violation of technology. You can correct the situation yourself. The mixture used for repairs is diluted until the consistency of sour cream and rub into the seams with gloved hands.

If the inter-tile filler spills out, it is cleaned with a brush and filled with a new, more durable composition. The best grout for bathroom tiles is one that has moisture-resistant structure. It does not crumble and holds perfectly in the seam.

Useful video

Filling the joints between tiles in the bathroom is not difficult. It is important to choose correctly and carefully perform the work, following the technology for using grout mixtures.

It doesn’t matter whether you decided to lay the tiles yourself or called a specialist - this knowledge will be useful in any case! Knowing the process in theory, you can easily apply the acquired information in practice, as well as monitor hired workers. After all, it is you who will then have to face possible problems.

Choosing materials – classic cement or modern epoxy?

It was once upon a time that tilers used the same solution for all operations, but today craftsmen have access to mixtures for each individual stage of installation. The grout mixture for tile joints must not only be durable, but also have high decorative qualities and resist moisture, household chemicals and dirt. In order not to get lost in the names, let's consider the very essence of grout. First, let's divide them into two groups: cement and epoxy.

Cement grouts consist of especially finely ground cement, fine sand, color, plasticizers and other additives that improve the physical and chemical characteristics of the hardened mixture. Like any cement mixture, such grouts are mixed with water or latex, resulting in a very plastic mixture, somewhat similar to putty. It should be noted that cement grouts are very easy to work with, which cannot be said about their main competitor - epoxy grouts, which require remarkable skill and diligence.

Cement grouts begin to harden 20–30 minutes after application, as evidenced by a decrease in color brightness. At this time, you should remove the remaining grout from the surface of the tile - a damp foam sponge is best for this; you can also use an ordinary rag. After a few more hours, wipe the surface of the tiles with a damp cloth or mop.

Cement grouting compounds have one significant advantage - low price and availability. However, there are also a number of disadvantages - the rough surface of the grout quickly becomes clogged with dust, which is why the seams acquire a dirty gray color; due to exposure to moisture and household chemicals, the frozen mixture begins to crack and crumble; cracks.

The problem is partially solved by water repellents or polyurethane water-repellent varnishes, which should be applied to each seam with a thin brush.

Epoxy mixtures are devoid of all these disadvantages, but still it would be hard to call them ideal - their price is not at all ideal, and as mentioned above, working with them will require a lot of experience. The fact is that the mixture obtained after mixing the components is quite hard, and great effort is required to apply it; moreover, the grout hardens quickly, creating problems when cleaning the mixture from the tiles. Therefore, even experienced craftsmen make very small portions, mixing the hardener with epoxy resin.

But then you will forget about tile joints forever. After hardening, epoxy compounds acquire a flat, smooth surface that perfectly repels dust and dirt, is absolutely indifferent to the effects of acids and alkalis and can easily tolerate cleaning with a wire brush. The decorative properties of such compositions are enhanced with the help of all kinds of sparkles, and even glow-in-the-dark components. Please note that the only way to remove such grout from the seams is with the tile itself.

Grouting joints - do it yourself

Step 2: Prepare your own grout mixture

The cement grout mixture is prepared by adding the dry composition to water. The thickness of properly prepared grout is similar to the consistency of sour cream. Mix the composition in small volumes, since even cement grout hardens within 20 minutes. Under no circumstances try to dilute the hardened solution with water - even if you manage to get a homogeneous mixture, it will crack very quickly after hardening.

Epoxy grout is prepared by mixing two components - the epoxy resin itself with dyes and fillers, and a hardener. At first it may seem to you that epoxy resin is very hard and unyielding - don’t worry, everything is correct, a little diligence, and you will be able to mix the components until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To be sure, watch the video on how to handle this composition.

Step 3: Apply grout to the seams

Don’t be afraid to use a wide spatula - take more grout onto the spatula and apply it in a wide strip to the seams, hoping to capture 1 square meter. Don’t be afraid to use force, as if pressing the grout into the seams - the harder and more tightly you press, the better mixture distributed inside the seams, the smoother they will look. The spatula should be held at an angle of 30° and moved diagonally towards the tile. Remove the remaining mixture with a spatula and use for the remaining areas. Using one batch should take you no more than 15 minutes for cement grouts and even less time for epoxy grouts.

Step 4: Remove dirt

Immediately after applying the solution, you can begin to do it yourself. To do this, use a soft foam sponge, which should be washed often and squeezed out well. The sponge should be barely damp so as not to wash the solution from the seams. The sponge should be drawn along the seam, this way you will form the final shape of the line. However, the most the best option is smoothing the line with the index finger or thumb. Please note that the grout should be below the level of the tile, as if in a recess. After all, the tiles should be wiped dry with a clean cloth. Afterwards polishing will help to achieve perfect cleanliness. Grout from tiles can be easily removed by means such as table vinegar, lemon juice, ammonia or toothpaste.

Grout renewal - we carry out restoration work

Cement grouts quickly lose their presentable appearance, but there are no difficulties in updating the joints. The easiest way is to coat the grout with special paint, which is sold in every hardware store. In addition to the paint itself, you will need a thin brush, sandpaper and a vacuum cleaner. Before applying the composition, the seams should be treated with sandpaper, and the resulting dust should be removed with a vacuum cleaner. This method allows you to update the color in a matter of hours, however, the effect will not last long.

If the seams are deep and there is at least 2 millimeters to the plane of the tile, a new layer is applied on top of the old layer. To improve the quality of the connection of layers, the previous one should be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, and the roughness should be increased using coarse sandpaper. The joints should be wetted before applying fresh grout.

The most radical option for updating tile joints is to completely replace the grout yourself. The previous layer should be completely removed. To do this, it is moistened with a special acidic cleaner, which is used to impregnate the surface of the joints - after some time, the grout will tighten softer, and it can be removed using a joint remover. You will find this tool in every hardware store - it is a curved, durable handle with a kind of nail file at the end.

When the old compound is removed, thoroughly vacuum the seams and go over the sandpaper again over any residue that was not removed the first time. Then wash the seams with soap and water to neutralize any remaining acidic cleaner. After a day, when the seams are completely dry, you can start sealing them - the instructions given above will help you with this.

Quite often for cladding walls and floors in various rooms tiles are used. It is not only practical, but also nice option finishing. However, everything can be ruined by careless or unprofessional rubbing of the seams. The joints are filled with a special composition, and this process has many nuances.

How to grout grout on tiles so that beautiful view Has the decorated room been preserved for a long time? Knowing the intricacies of such work will help you understand this.

How to choose a grout mixture?

Before grouting the tiles, you need to purchase grout. It is selected depending on the following factors:

chemical composition;
operating conditions of the facing coating;
compatibility with the composition of the adhesive solution;
the width of the space between adjacent tiles.

When choosing a color, many experts advise purchasing grout mixtures in darker tones than the tile covering itself. This will strictly emphasize the geometry of the tile and practically hide the dirt that appears during operation.

Types of grout mixtures

Before starting the tiling process, you should find out what can be used to seal the tile seams in each specific case. To do this, it is important to understand what types of mashing compositions there are.

Based on their chemical components, they are classified into the following types:

cement-sand based grout;
polymer cement compositions;
epoxy-cement mixtures;
epoxy grouts;
silicone-based polymer mixtures.

Cement-sand compositions are made from white cement with the addition of fine-grained clean sand. They are used for decorative design seams in rooms characterized by moderate humidity and gentle conditions. The base must be concrete or brick that is not subject to deformation. If you can't find the shade you want, you can purchase white and add coloring when cooking.

Polymer-cement mixtures are similar in composition to cement-sand grout, but also contain polymer additives that make them more durable and moisture-resistant. The seams lined with them are not susceptible to the formation of various defects, for example, cracks. Cement-sand and polymer-cement grouting specialists prefer for residential buildings and office premises.

Epoxy-cement and epoxy compounds are used in both internal and external tile work. Thanks to their composition, they are able to withstand even the most aggressive operating conditions: bases subject to deformation, increased humidity and adverse influences environment. The composition of epoxy-based grout is viscous and tends to harden quickly, so it requires active and skillful work. It is not suitable for grouting narrow tiled spaces in residential premises, the width of which ranges from 3-6 mm, but it will be an excellent solution for tiling work on wide joints of various non-standard objects, for example, swimming pools. This type of paste is used more often in industrial facilities.

Polymer mixtures are resistant to temperature fluctuations, therefore they are successfully used for cladding floor tiles with a "warm floor" system. They are injected into the seam using a special syringe.

Tools

Before grouting the seams on the tiles, you must prepare a construction kit. It consists of the following components:

special grout float or rubber spatula;
a small tray for mixing grout;
water container;
soft cloth;
foam sponge;
Some professionals wear safety glasses, rubber gloves and a respirator when working.

Preparation

Before grouting the seams between the tiles, specialists carry out preliminary measures to clean the spaces between the tiles. They remove all remaining dividing crosses, despite the opinion of many manufacturers that they can be left and grout applied on top. Professionals claim that in areas where the separator remains, the tone of the grout after hardening will be lighter - this will ruin the final result.

After this procedure, everything is washed with ordinary water using a foam sponge. Before grouting the tiles on the floor, the room being treated should be thoroughly vacuumed.

For unglazed materials, preliminary light moistening of the top and side surfaces is required. This event will help get rid of excessive moisture suction when applying grout. When heavily moistened, the grout often spreads, so it is important not to overdo it. Grout can be applied to glazed tiles without first wetting the side and top areas.

Mixing grout paste

Before grouting the joints on the tiles, you need to properly prepare the grout. The quality of the work performed will depend on it. This mass is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. A grout mixture that is too thin can lead to cracking of the joint after drying; if it is too thick, it will not fill the space of the entire joint. The mass should be homogeneous and resemble sour cream in consistency. It is convenient to use a construction mixer for mixing.

The finished paste should be used quickly, so mix it in small portions (about 300-500 grams at a time).

Applying grout

Before grouting tiles on the floor or wall, read these recommendations from experts:

rubbing is not done along the perimeter of the tile, but first in the horizontal direction, then in the vertical direction, or vice versa;
do not cover the entire area at once, but allocate areas of approximately 1 sq. meter;
the more paste that goes into the seam, the better quality and stronger it will be during operation;
The grouting area must be moist.

A small amount of prepared grout paste is applied to the seam area and distributed over it using a grout float, which must be held at an angle of 30-40° to the surface to be treated.

It is important to know how to properly grout tile joints in order to get a high-quality and neat result. To do this, you need to run along the seam 3-4 times, rubbing and deepening the mixture as thoroughly as possible into all the voids and corners. The area between the tiles must be filled tightly to eliminate the formation of voids between the tiles as much as possible. Excess grout paste is removed by running a float diagonally to the seam. The tool is positioned at an angle of 90° to the area being treated. Some experts recommend having another spatula for this.

Finishing touches

After about 15 minutes, the grout paste will dry out a little. It's time to wipe the seams with a damp sponge in the same sequence in which they were rubbed.

Only when you press on it with uniform force do you get seams with the same depth. This must be done at this stage; later it will be difficult to correct the result. The sponge is washed plain water. The treated area is left to dry (on average this process lasts 12 hours).

Important nuances

You need to know how to grout tile grout in the corners. To do this, use a special small spatula designed for hard to reach places. Many experts prefer to fill the corners and crevice spaces around the perimeter of shower cabins, bathtubs, and washbasins with silicone, which will guarantee the tightness of the entire seam and will prevent the formation of cracks in the future. Before filling the space between tiles silicone sealant You need to seal the edges of the tiles with masking tape to avoid contamination. The sealant is pressed in continuously, then leveled using a moistened rubber spatula. After removing the excess silicone, you can remove the strips of tape from the tiles.

You should know how to grout grout on floor tiles so that you don’t accidentally ruin the result. To do this, many craftsmen recommend that after grouting, cover the treated area with a sheet of plywood and leave it until the grout paste has completely hardened. Once the grout has hardened, you need to start cleaning the tiles. It is washed well with a wet sponge and then rubbed with a dry cloth.

Specialist prices

Everyone who carries out repairs on their own is interested in the question of how much it costs to grout the tile seams and lay it, that is, what the savings will be for the budget. The cost of a specialist’s services in this work depends on the status of the master himself, the rating of his company, the size of the tile covering and total area, intended for laying and rubbing. On average, professionals request about 600 rubles per 1 sq.m. for laying tiles of ordinary size followed by grouting, and within 950 rubles/1 sq.m. for the same work with mosaics. A separate service for grouting the area between the tiles will cost approximately 100 rubles/1 sq.m.

The final stage of laying tiles is processing the joints between the tiles. If you do it yourself, you need to know what and how to grout the tiles; these skills are necessary not only to make the final work look beautiful and complete. The service life of the coating, as well as the issue of hygiene, depend on the correctness of its implementation.

Grouting tile joints is the final stage of any tiling work.

Why is this necessary?

At the very beginning, the question arises: when and why do you need to grout the seams on the tiles? You need to understand this in order. Seams are the space between the cladding fragments at the junction. The laying technology predetermines the standards and norms that need to be followed during the installation of tiles. It is recommended to leave an average of 2 to 5 mm of space between elements. How more tiles– the wider the seam can be.

This is done for several reasons:

As the walls shrink, the tiles may move slightly, so they need to be left with space to move;
The wall “breathes” through these cracks in the cladding;
The grout protects the walls in the bathroom from the penetration of excess moisture; if this is not done, fungus and mold will sooner or later form in the seams, and the situation will be aggravated by dirt clogged in the joints;
Grouting joints improves adhesion between fragments;
Plays a certain decorative role. Neat and even seams look quite aesthetically pleasing and mask mortar residues and small defects along the edges of the tile, such as chips and nicks.

How long you seal the seams between the tiles determines how long the coating will remain in good condition.

Grouting affects the quality and performance characteristics of the entire coating

How to choose a mixture

In order to properly grout the seams on the tiles, and in the process there will be no unnecessary problems It is important to choose the right mixture. This nuance is given no less importance than the process itself.

You need to select material based on the following criteria:

Color. Perhaps this point is fundamental for most people. It largely depends on the color of the grout appearance finished coating. White is considered universal. If you want the surface to look like a single monolith, you need to choose a shade that matches the tile. Today this is quite easy to do; you can simply add color to the standard white mixture. You can also play with contrast, but this approach is used much less often.
Composition and properties. Mixtures for grouting joints on tiles may contain materials such as gypsum, alabaster, Portland cement, epoxy resins, etc. Depending on the composition, the properties of the mixture change. For rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, you need to choose water-repellent components, and for surfaces with high load and wear, more durable and coarse compounds. The best option- epoxy mixture.
Purpose. Standard grout is intended for processing wall joints between tiles. However, it still wears out over time and requires updating. On the floor it is better to use a more tenacious mixture, since the tiles are constantly subject to stress and contact with shoes and other objects. That is, a loose structure is absolutely not suitable in this case.

Tile joints can be filled with grout of any color

How to prepare grout

Most often today, grout options from manufacturers are used. This is convenient, and you can choose the ideal composition for a particular case. Grout is available in two types. The first is dry powder. Not everyone is able to correctly calculate the required amount of material. The powder can be used as needed; it can be stored for quite a long time if necessary conditions. You regulate the thickness of the mixture yourself, the proportions are indicated on the packaging, so there will be no difficulties with preparing the grout.

The second option is ready-made mass. This is an elastic mass, most often produced in cans or buckets. The advantage is that you do not need to dilute anything; the material is already completely ready for use. The obvious disadvantage is the short shelf life of an opened can. Therefore, the leftovers will most likely have to be thrown away. Since it is more profitable to make grout for tile joints with your own hands, purchase dry mixtures.

You can prepare the grout yourself. The simplest option is a mixture of water and alabaster. The result is an elastic white mass, but when it dries it can crumble, so this putty will not last long. Gypsum additives can strengthen the mixture, but will not fundamentally change the situation.

So how to cook high-quality grout It is very difficult to make tiles with your own hands; it is better to give preference to the purchased option.
Application

To complete the work you will need a fairly modest list of tools and auxiliary materials:

container for solution;

small rubber spatula;

foam sponge;

water;

brush;

construction mixer.

Since you need to dilute the tile grout in small portions, you will need a small container. The mixer is used only when preparing large quantity mass, in other cases you can achieve uniformity by kneading it with a trowel or spatula.

A “pastry” bag is designed to facilitate the process of grouting joints between tiles.

How to apply grout to tiles:

Clean the seams from dirt and dust, degrease and treat with an antifungal agent.

Using a brush, wet the seams with water for better adhesion to the material.

Dilute a small amount of mastic.

Apply the elastic mixture with a rubber spatula directly onto the seam itself, tamping it inward so that there are no voids left.

Remove excess using a spatula.

When the mixture dries, lightly moisten it with water to prevent it from cracking.

It is better to seal the joints of tiles with a bathtub or countertop where the baseboard will run with silicone sealant. It will provide one hundred percent protection against water leakage and fungus formation along the wall.

The grouting of the joints between the tiles on the walls and the floor has some differences. Direction of work in vertical plane is done from top to bottom. The sealant is applied last. It is convenient to work with it, since the tube has a special narrow nozzle. If you are working on the floor, you need to move from the far corner to the exit, just like when laying the tiles themselves.

Final processing

The next day, after the grout has dried, in rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, you need to re-surface the grouted seams with an antiseptic, this will reduce the likelihood of the formation of fungus and mold in the most vulnerable places of the wall and flooring. On horizontal surfaces, no matter how hard you try to prevent it, water will accumulate and it can leak through the seams, so in addition, to prevent moisture penetration, they can be opened with epoxy resin. At this point, grouting the tile joints with your own hands can be considered complete. Next you need to take care of the tile itself.

How to clean the surface

In order for the tile covering to acquire a finished look, you need to take care of its cleanliness and remove all traces of putty. The tiles usually need to be grouted in two or three approaches; if the mastic sags when drying, the surface is cleaned at the very end.

It is better to apply grout and remove its excess using special tools.

To do this, wet the foam sponge with water and rinse the tile so that the grout on its surface becomes slightly wet. Next, use a spatula or scraper to remove all excess, holding the tool perpendicular to the surface. Stains and residues are removed with a sponge or damp cloth; you can use it to correct the seams. Please note that they should not be convex or extend onto the tile itself. You can use an old toothbrush and water to clean grooved tiles.

Please note: you need to work with putty that has not yet completely dried, otherwise it will be very difficult to soften it, which will significantly complicate and slow down the cleaning process.

By scraping off the hardened mass, you risk damaging the tile, especially if its surface is glossy. It will be almost impossible to remove such material from relief tiles. Finally, treat the shiny tile with glass cleaner and polish it.

It is not enough to know only the specifics of performing grouting work. In addition, you need to familiarize yourself with basic rules for the care of such a surface.

People love tiles because they are very practical and easy to care for.

First of all, remember that clean seams prevent the proliferation of pathogenic microbes and fungi. It is necessary to carry out general cleaning once every one to two months. To do this, you can use a soap solution, lemon juice, vinegar or special detergents with a disinfecting effect. You can disinfect the surface with bleach, and whiten it with peroxide and soda. It is convenient to clean the seams with an old toothbrush. A steam cleaner does an excellent job of removing stubborn dirt and germs.

Do not throw away the remaining mixture, if any, as you will need to grout the seams on the tiles more than once, especially in the bathroom and kitchen. Re-treatment should be carried out regularly as needed. If the seams have darkened, crumbled, or fungus has appeared on them, you need to clean out the old layer. After this, the joints are coated with an antiseptic, then new grout is applied. The sealant is removed with a blade and then a new layer is applied.

The correct choice of mixture, adherence to the basics of grouting, regular maintenance and timely updating not only guarantee the aesthetics of the coating, but also significantly improve the performance characteristics of the surface.

When the main work of laying the tiles is left behind, you can begin its final stage - grouting the joints. This work plays a very important role, because high-quality grout will be able to mask defects in tile laying if they exist, and, conversely, poor grout will completely destroy the impression of a flawlessly executed installation. In addition, the empty spaces between the tiles with poor-quality grouting turn black over time from fungus and mold. Therefore it is worth paying attention special attention the question of how to grout the seams on the tiles in order to improve the overall appearance of the coating, as well as provide it with additional protection.

Video instructions

What types of grouting compounds are there?

There are two types of grout for tile joints:

cement-based;
epoxy based.

Cement grouts inexpensive and easy to use, and therefore the most popular in home use. They are presented in the form of dry mixtures with the addition of modified polymers and are diluted with water or latex before starting work. Modified polymers make the grouting material resistant to moisture, and this allows it to be used even on outdoor surfaces. open areas. Ready-made mixtures are also available for sale, which do not require additional preparation, but they usually cost much more.

If the seam during installation is wider than 3 mm, then it is better to purchase cement grout with the addition of sand, and if the seams are smaller, then it is recommended to use regular cement-based grout.

Safety tip: Cement grout can cause inflammation of the skin, eyes and lungs. Therefore, when working with these materials, be sure to wear safety glasses, a respirator and rubber gloves.

Epoxy grouts contain epoxy resin and hardener. Such compositions withstand mechanical, chemical and thermal influences well; they are much more stable and stronger than their cement counterparts, but they are also more expensive. They are used mainly in industrial premises. At home, it is reasonable to use such grout only if the width of the joints between the ceramic tiles is more than 6 mm (since it is quite viscous, it will not be able to penetrate into narrower joints).

Epoxy grouts are a mixture of 2 components: paste and catalyst, which are mixed immediately before use. The proportions of these two components must be accurate, so you need to use a scale.

Which grout is best for tiles? Experts recommend buying epoxy grout for ceramic tile joints, as it is more beautiful, stronger and more reliable. It will last up to 50 years, perfectly protecting the cladding from moisture, fungi and bacteria, as well as from exposure to chemicals. If you still decide to buy cement-based grout, then it is advisable to buy latex for it.

As for the color of the grout, it is a matter of taste: the grout can be matched to the main color of the ceramic tiles or you can prefer a classic light tone.

Width of grout joints

What should be the width of grout joints? This largely depends on personal preference. Some, for example, like narrow seams. Excessively wide joints seem to suppress the tile visually. Square ceramic tiles ranging in size from 10 to 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm joints. The irregular shape of the tiles becomes less noticeable with wider joints, but not more than 12 mm. A joint with a width of more than 12 mm will become stronger if you add coarse sand to the grout, but even this will not always protect it from cracking.

To the same extent, it is not recommended to make the seams too narrow, since it will be impossible to fill them properly with grout, as a result of which water can seep into the cladding. Good masters they know that the quality of the cladding will be at a high level if the joints are sufficiently wide, when they can be well filled with grout. This means that the seams will be waterproof and will also be able to absorb the deformation of the tiles during expansion or contraction. This ability of seams is reduced many times when their width is less than 1 millimeter.

Grouting ceramic tiles: how to do it

How to properly grout ceramic tiles? First of all, check whether the glue is completely dry. Then we thoroughly clean the seams from residual glue, dirt and dust, and remove the remaining spacers. When working with unglazed tiles, they must be moistened before grouting, otherwise they will draw water from the grout mixture. Glazed tiles do not need to be wetted.

All grouting materials must be kept for some time in the room where the grouting work will be carried out. Optimal temperature for grouting – 18-25°C.

You can watch the grouting process in detail in the video below - grouting ceramic tiles video. It consists of the following steps:

mixing the grout composition;
keeping the grout mixture for better wetting;
re-mixing the grout;
grout distribution;
cleaning up excess grout.

Mix the grout with water or latex additives. Dry polymer grouts are mixed exclusively with water. In any case, add such an amount of liquid so that the resulting mixture is easily distributed. This is important to remember, because excess liquid will weaken the grout (we adhere to the proportions indicated on the packaging of the material).

The grout is mixed by adding the dry component to the liquid

We mix by gradually adding the dry component to the liquid (at first we pour only three-quarters of the total amount of liquid). After mixing all the dry components with the liquid, add the remaining liquid in small portions, constantly checking the consistency of the grout. Mixing is done using a rectangular trowel or electric mixer. The stirrer must be completely immersed in the solution so that air does not get into the mixture, because air bubbles weaken it.

All components are mixed, most of the lumps are broken. Let the solution stand for 10 minutes to wet. Mix the grout again so that no lumps remain. If you need to prepare several portions of grout, you need to be sure that their composition will be identical. Therefore, when mixing new portions, we try to maintain the proportions and order of combining the components, and so that the color of the grout remains constant, when mixing the next portion, we add grout from each package to it.

Advice! When purchasing several packages of grout, you must make sure that they are all produced under the same serial number.

The finished grout must have sufficient density so that it remains heaped when distributed.

Materials and tools required for applying grout

Scraper with rubber nozzle
Grout
Sponge
Bucket
A wooden stick with a pointed end, a jointer, or a toothbrush
Plywood
Clean cloth
Paint roller
Respirator (for working with cement grouts)
Rubber gloves
Safety glasses

We spread the grout in a heap on the surface of the cladding.

The grout is laid out in a slide on the surface of the tile.

To distribute the solution, use a grout float (for walls or floors, respectively). Apply grout to the tile diagonally, holding the float at an angle of 30° to it. We try not only to cover the seams with mortar, but also to forcefully press it into the seams in order to fill them tightly, because their strength depends on the density of filling the seams.

The grout is applied at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile

We do not grout over the entire surface at once. First, distribute the solution over a small area (no more than 2 square meters) to find out how quickly this grout sets. If it sets quickly, you need to stop and clean it. Sometimes it is possible to distribute the grout over an area of up to 9 m2, and only then begin cleaning; in other cases, you only have to cover small areas and clean them.

The first grout removal is dry.

To do this, we use a trowel, holding it at right angles to the tiles and moving it diagonally towards the grout joints (so that the edge of the tool does not accidentally remove part of the grout from the joint). Once the excess has been removed, the grout should be allowed to set before cleaning. While we are grouting and cleaning, do not forget to stir the grout solution periodically so that it retains its softness before applying to the next areas.

During the grouting process, stir the grout solution periodically so that it retains its softness.

The second removal of the grout mixture is wet. When should it start? The time it takes for grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly. It may take 5 minutes, or it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of moisture evaporation from grout directly depends on the adhesive and tiles, the type of base, and weather conditions.

Wet cleaning of the cladding surface

For wet cleaning, you need a bucket of water and a sponge (it is advisable that the sponge has rounded edges - this will prevent grooves from forming in the seams). Use gentle circular movements to remove sand and cement particles. We act carefully to avoid the formation of grooves in the grout joints. We clean only a small area (1-2m2) at a time, wetting the sponge often enough to wash away the grout particles that have penetrated the pores of the tiles. We try to rinse the sponge well and squeeze it out as hard as possible, shaking off excess water from our hands.

At the second stage we examine grout joints so that they are all neat. Using a jointer, a toothbrush or a wooden stick with a pointed end, we align and smooth the seams.

Using jointing, the seams are aligned and smoothed

Then we trim their edges with a sponge. Ideally, the seams should be smooth on top, not convex, although most seams then become slightly concave, but this is acceptable. It is important that in the end they all turn out to be the same depth and shape.

The seams have been leveled, now all that remains is to thoroughly clean the surface of the cladding from any remaining traces of grout. We act carefully so as not to wipe the grout from the seams with a sponge. After this cleaning, any remaining grout must be completely removed from the surface of the tiles. The seams should dry in about 15 minutes.

Remove grout residue remaining on the surface of the tile using gauze or a soft, clean cloth.

The work is finished, place a sheet of plywood on the floor and do not allow anyone to walk on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Some grouts take up to two or more weeks to dry (check the drying time in the manufacturer's instructions).