Methods for laying tiles on wood in the house: dry floor leveling, wet screed, express option. How to lay tiles on a wooden floor: subtleties of technology and recommendations Tile on a wooden floor in a bathroom

This type finishing material for flooring is very popular and there are no serious problems with its installation today.

Fortunately, manufacturers produce a lot of adhesive compositions characterized by high adhesive qualities.

There are, however, difficulties with installation, only in private households.

And the most important ones are the presence of floors made of... Here the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor is especially acute.

And, if this is possible, then how is this done correctly, what is the emphasis, what nuances should be taken into account, and what should not be done? Detailed instructions and warnings for novice masters are fully outlined below.

Usage flooring The use of tiles in private houses is also justified by the fact that under it you can install a water-heated floor or an electric one.

This will save you money cash in terms of payment, as well as in view of a number of advantageous qualities of the material:

High wear resistance
Long service life
Fire resistance
Tiles can withstand high loads
Ease of care
Easy to install

Preliminary work and calculations

After everything has become more or less clear with the choice of material, you need to make the correct calculation of the tiles. There won’t be any particular difficulties in this if you have at least the slightest idea about the costs of laying tiles. And it happens:

Straightforward
Diagonally (oblique)
Herringbone
With offset

It’s worth focusing a little more specifically on the choice of tiles for a private sector bathroom.

Here preference should be given to non-slip ones. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathhouse in principle? You can read more about the installation process below, in the following subsections.

Formulas and nuances of calculating the number of tiles

calculate the area of the room
add 7% to the resulting figure
divide the calculation result by the area of one die
divide the result by the number of tiles in one package
round to whole number

If the “diagonal” laying method is chosen, then approximately 12% is added to the final result (for trimming). With the herringbone layout method - 15%. The simplest and most economical is “straightforward”. If a floor with a pattern is laid out, then the materials for it are completely different and more complex.

Proper preparation of wooden floors

This is the most important stage work, since the quality and final result as a whole depend on it.

There are several ways to prepare a wooden base for laying tiles; the choice of one directly depends on the condition of the floor at the moment.

A wooden floor is a complete structure, not just the upper floorboards.

This includes: joists, beams and underlayment.

And they all need to be double-checked before installation.

Floor check

Experienced craftsmen recommend using exclusively tongue-and-groove boards for new floor coverings, which involves complete disassembly of the structure. Even if, at first glance, the floor looks perfect, it doesn’t make any squeaks, the floorboards are securely fastened and don’t wobble at all.

Pay attention! If the logs are installed at a distance from each other in increments of up to 50 cm, it will need to be additionally redesigned; in this form it will not be able to withstand the weight of the new flooring.

Algorithm verification work in wooden base:

Floorboards are removed
Beams and joists are being inspected
The level checks the evenness and horizontality of supporting structures

If there is no possibility of raising the lag, then a wedge or a piece of wood is driven under it, secured, and the excess is simply trimmed off.

Surface preparation

Wood is an organic material by nature, which means it cannot be considered stable and reliable. When humidity increases, it swells; when there is a lack of it, on the contrary, it dries out and decreases in size.

This raises the question: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a private house, with such technical specifications basics.

Experienced craftsmen give a positive answer, provided that before installation a damper layer is installed to absorb the movement of the floorboards. Where it turns to the base of the tile with a hard surface, and elastic to the wooden one, taking on the shocks.

Important point! When constructing such a layer, it is important to remember that the wood must breathe, otherwise it will begin to rot or deteriorate from fungus and mold.

What is important to do when treating the floor:

Treat thoroughly with antiseptics and impregnations
Fill the distance between the joists with fine expanded clay
Prepare new or old floorboards
Important to consider! When using old floorboards, they should be additionally prepared - completely remove the paintwork.
Lay floorboards on the structure with a gap of 5 mm between them (for expansion)
If there are cracks or knots on the floorboards, they need to be puttied and sanded
Sand the coating completely after roughing
The gaps between the boards are filled with tape or foam
To organize monolithic insulation, the surface is coated with latex impregnation or heated drying oil.

Lightweight screed device

Third stage preparatory work a solid base for the tiles is being created. It is rational and correct to organize an ordinary monolithic screed, only lightened because the foundation in question cannot withstand a full screed.

In principle, for laying clinker, porcelain stoneware or tiles, three screeds are used:

Standard monolithic - thickness no more than 3 cm. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the waterproofing layer, secured with self-tapping screws and filled with concrete mortar.
Liquid glass or KS glue. You can also use polyurethane two-component glue. They are used to create an elastic coating to prevent cracking of tiles from wood movements.

A screed based on liquid glass can be prepared.

To do this, you need to prepare: liquid glass, water and washed coarse sand in proportions respectively - 2: 1: 2.

If the bathhouse in a private house is dry, then the surface of the floors can be leveled with GVL or DSP slabs.

They are laid at an angle of 30 0 C, but so that the joints of the slabs and the joints of the subfloor do not coincide.

The seams can be protected and additionally secured using a special adhesive for drywall.

Key points for installing tiles on wood floors

The entire installation process consists of the following stages: marking, preparing glue, laying and grouting tile joints. We won’t dwell on each one individually this time, but we’ll look at the most important ones right now:

It would be a good idea to place the tiles on the floor before “setting” them on the glue. This way you can distribute the material as accurately as possible by removing trimmed parts, select a more precise pattern, and so on.
It is very important to adhere to the line of the window opening when laying. The lines must be strictly parallel to it. To make it easier to keep the seams the same width, you can use crosses in your work.
To increase the adhesion of the tile base and the floor, you can use a special cement-based adhesive.
To increase the strength characteristics of the coupling, you can use compositions containing plasticizers or add them to the glue yourself at the rate of no more than 15% of the total mass of the glue.
It is important to remember that the glue must be used completely within three hours.
The working surface (the area where the glue is applied) should not be too large - optimally one meter square.
If errors are made during installation, they must be corrected within 10 minutes, otherwise it will be impossible - the glue will begin to stick.

Important point! You need to start laying from the farthest corner, moving towards the doors, focusing on the center lines.

The only and nevertheless important disadvantage of laying tiles on a wooden floor is its fragility, but with proper care it is guaranteed to serve as a reliable and durable base for 7 years.

Despite its fragility, this is the most optimal solution to the immediate problem of organizing flooring. Moreover, there are no particular difficulties or problems in installation. The main thing is to properly prepare the wooden base, and everyone who reads the material will know how to do this.

About laying tiles on wooden bases - in the video:

In many houses, the floor is made of floorboards along the joists. When walking, it bends, so the correct installation of tiles or porcelain tiles on a wooden floor becomes not an easy task. In this article we will tell you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor and how to prepare the base.

Unlike wood, tiles have a number of advantages. Its qualities are excellent for use in the hallway, kitchen, bathroom and toilet. Tile:

does not ignite;
non-toxic;
not afraid of contact with chemical solutions;
withstands heavy loads;
does not conduct electric current;
doesn't lose appearance from moisture, sunlight or frost;
ceramics are easy to clean.

The main disadvantage of tiles is that the surface is cold, so walking barefoot will not be very pleasant. To get rid of this, heated floors are often used. They can even be installed on a wooden base.

Laying process

Installation of tiles is designed for a durable and rigid surface. Therefore, you first need to inspect the existing floor.

As a rule, old floors consist of several layers:

coating (laminate, linoleum, parquet, painting);
substrate (chipboard, boards, plywood), which is fixed to the joists;
Logs that lie on a concrete base along the entire floor with an interval of about 50 cm - they serve as the frame of the structure.

Preparing a Wooden Floor

First option

Suitable for those who have sagging.

1. Remove old coating and backing. If the old logs are in good condition, then you can leave them as a base.
2. Remove the floor covering using a nail puller. Then install the joists on the substrate in a horizontal position using a level.

For greater preservation of the wood, treat the logs with protective impregnation.

1. Fill the joists to the top level with fine expanded clay. This will prevent the boards from sagging when walking.

We cover the surface with boards (see article about) or thick plywood. The boards should be fastened with 2 self-tapping screws approximately 5 centimeters long.
For ventilation, leave small gaps between the boards or drill holes later.
Place parchment paper on top of the boards and lay down a new backing. For this purpose, gypsum fiber sheets with a thickness of 20 millimeters or cement bonded particle board 10-20 millimeters. The sheets need to be fastened at intervals using self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the logs, in increments of 15-20 cm.
The gap between the wall and the floor can be filled with polyurethane foam.
Now prime the surface and lay the tiles as you would on a regular floor.

Second option

Suitable for those whose floors are in poor condition, but the conditions allow for screeding.

Remove old floor sheathing. To prevent moisture from penetrating inside, the wooden floor is waterproofed under the tiles.
The simplest method of waterproofing is the use of polyethylene film.
Using a laser or water level, mark a horizontal floor line around the perimeter of the room.
Install the beacons at a distance of about 1 meter from each other and about 10 centimeters from the walls. To do this, use metal profiles, screwing them to the concrete with dowels.
The screed is made either with a solution of cement and sand (composition: 1 part M-400 cement to 3 parts sand), or with cast concrete.
The average consumption will be approximately 15 kg per square meter. meter with a layer of 1 cm.
If you need to fill a layer that is too large, then first pour expanded clay between the beacons, 2/3 of the layer thickness. Fill it with screed and wait for it to dry overnight.
After drying, clean the surface from floating expanded clay. Prime and fill with mortar. This time you need to level it using the beacon rule so that the floor is level. Start leveling from the far corner towards the exit.
After three days, prime the screed and preferably fill it with a self-leveling solution.
All! The screed is ready - now feel free to proceed with the usual methods.

Third option

Suitable for those who have a floor in good condition and covered with chipboard sheets.

Waterproof the gaps between the wall and the wood with polyurethane foam.
Soak the chipboard several times with protective impregnation or heated drying oil (be careful, this is flammable).
Then apply a thick layer of latex to the surface of the chipboard.
Immediately after applying it, place a painting net on the surface and leave until dry.
When the latex has dried, the mesh must be secured to the floor with self-tapping screws.
Treat the surface with a mixture of the following composition: 1 part water, 2 parts liquid glass, 2 parts coarse sand.
It is advisable to additionally level the surface with a self-leveling solution. When everything is dry, tiles are laid on the wooden floor.

Video on laying tiles on a wooden floor in an apartment:

That's all the basic methods on how to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor. As you can see, this is not an easy task and will require a lot of additional preparation. And if you put tiles directly on wood, the tiles will quickly crack and fall off due to constant movement.

The level of comfort in our homes is constantly increasing. Even wooden houses must have bathrooms. What kind of floor should be in the bathroom? From tiles or porcelain stoneware. But to avoid problems, you need to know how to lay tiles on a wooden floor. There are techniques and rules that allow tile and wood to coexist peacefully.

Floor tiles are one of the most convenient coverings for the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen. Some people prefer this covering on the hallway floor. Owners of floor joists often wonder whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Can. There are materials that make the idea real, but first let’s look at the difficulties that can be expected.

If you do not take into account the mobility of the floor, the tiles may bounce off

Mobility of a wooden floor

To decide whether it is possible to lay tiles on your wooden floor, you need to inspect the joists and boards. If the joists and boards are in good condition, the floor under your feet does not “walk”, the tiles or porcelain tiles will also lie without problems. Is there a slight deflection? Perhaps it will be eliminated by sheet material, which is still placed on boards under the tiles. If the deflection is large, it is better not to take risks. Still, the materials cost a lot.

If the floorboards are in poor condition or they are sagging, and the joists will last for another thirty years, there are three options:

The first option is the least realistic - this is an almost complete overhaul of the floor. In this case, it’s better to do it. All the same, after all, the floor was practically dismantled, and a cement base is always more reliable, and not only for tiles. And you can make a warm floor. Just one note. A screed can be made if the load-bearing capacity of the floor or foundation or both allows it.

If the logs are no good and the board is no good, it is best to make a screed. You can have a lightweight one, or you can have a regular one. You need to look, as we have already said, at the load-bearing capacity, but laying tiles on rotten joists and boards will not lead to anything good.

Different temperature expansions

Wooden floors and tiles or porcelain tiles have different values of temperature and humidity deformations. To put it simply, when temperature and humidity change, they change their sizes in different ways. Wood changes a lot, ceramics - only slightly. The difference is significant. If you do not pay attention to this, the tiles will crack or cracks will appear in the seams. But there are methods for laying tiles on an unstable base and materials that can compensate for this difference.

This is how the problem of different expansion of wooden floors and ceramics is solved. Let's say right away that tile adhesive and grout for wood floors are more expensive than usual. This is due to the polymers that give elasticity to the compounds. But it’s clearly not worth saving and buying regular glue.

Will the floor rot under the tiles?

When humidity is high, wood rots. While the wood is open, covered only with paint or varnish, moisture evaporates. But if there are ways for moisture to leak in, you can’t lock it in the floor. It is necessary to eliminate the sources, dry the structure and only after that, lay the tiles on a dry floor.

Wooden flooring must be done correctly. Then the tiles in the bathroom, kitchen, hallway can be laid without problems

If you are going to lay tiles on a plank floor in an apartment, and it is on the second floor or higher, there are no questions at all. Inspect the logs and boards, if everything is fine, then continue using the chosen technology. How to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor in a house? If the floor is ventilated, has been sitting for several years and nothing has happened to it, the insulation (if any) is dry, the boards do not rot, the house is dry... There are also no problems. You can lay tiles on the sheet material fixed to the boards with glue. Just like that, without much fuss.

If problems are found during the audit, or there is high humidity in the house, this problem is solved first. Then, after time has passed, you can lay the tiles on the floor.

Dry screed on wooden floors under ceramic tiles

Proper laying of tiles must meet several conditions. First. The cake must be thought out so that the boards and insulation (if any) are not in a humid environment. That is, if there is a possibility of increased humidity, care must be taken to ensure that the moisture is removed. Second. Different thermal expansions must be compensated for. For this purpose, special tile adhesive and grout are used for wood and unstable substrates.

To minimize the possibility of cracks in the tiles, it is better to take tiles that are not too large in size. The ideal option is mosaic. When laying, do not forget about the technological gap around the perimeter of the room - the coating should not rest against the walls.

With or without waterproofing

If you are going to lay tiles on a wooden floor in the bathroom, waterproofing is a must. It is placed on leveled and prepared boards, under sheet material. The waterproofing is laid out over the entire area, extending onto the walls, where it is hermetically sealed. Moreover, the material must simultaneously perform the functions of a vapor barrier. That is, it should not allow water and water vapor to pass through. Most cheap option— polyethylene film with a density of 200 kg/m². But it should be laid in two layers, not in one. They sell it by the sleeve, so they put it away. Without cutting. You can also use other materials. There are many different ones, but keep in mind that it should be a vapor barrier.

If everything is done exactly like this, then you can simply and without any fuss lay two layers of sheet material on top of the boards, and tiles on top of it

There is no need for waterproofing in the corridor. There's no need to put it there. There is no such amount of water that can cause any harm. It is better to use hydrophobic grout for joints (which does not allow water to pass through). It will be better and more reliable.

In the kitchen, installing a hydro-vapor barrier is desirable. But you have to look at how the floor is designed. If it is without insulation and there is a well-ventilated underground underneath, it is possible without waterproofing. Take waterproof sheet material, go through the joints of the sheets with silicone, use hydrophobic tile adhesive and seal the seams with hydrophobic putty. This will be sufficient even for short-term emergencies.

Pie for laying tiles with waterproofing and mineral wool insulation

If a wooden floor is insulated with mineral wool, measures must be taken to prevent water from getting into it, but everything must also be organized so that moisture is not trapped inside the insulation. This means that in each specific case a different solution is chosen. But the correct sequence of layers is this (bottom to top):

With this device, it turns out that moisture that somehow got into the insulation will be removed through a vapor-permeable membrane from below. This arrangement is typical for ventilated subfloors. If you don't know how to lay tiles on wooden floor second floor, a counter-lattice and ceiling lining of the first floor will be added below.

How to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor

First you need to level the floor as much as possible. Old boards can bend and it is advisable to remove these irregularities. Sanding, plane, putty. Than there is a possibility. There are ways to lay it this way, but it’s safer to lay it on a flat base. There will be fewer problems during operation.

It is advisable to level the boards as much as possible so that the sheets lie flat

The second stage is to additionally secure the boards with self-tapping screws to the joists. This will reduce the possibility of sagging. The result is an almost monolithic slab. If only some boards sag, you can connect them to neighboring ones by screwing in screws at an angle or driving in nails.

What to make a base for tiles from

Sheet material is placed on cleaned and leveled boards in two layers, spacing the seams. Everyone chooses what they like. Most often used:

Plywood remains the most popular. It is the most durable and does not bend, but its cost is now inhumane. There are cheaper materials - the same, gypsum board, . They have their drawbacks, but they are also used. A combination of materials can be used. For example, for rigidity, lay plywood on the boards, and on it - DSP. This cement-based material is good for tile adhesive. But if you lay it directly on the boards, over time it will repeat the shape of the base. If the floor is uneven, the same unevenness will appear on the sheet. If there is a tile on it, it will either break or bounce off. So this combination - plywood + fiberboard - is more optimal in terms of costs and characteristics.

How to attach sheets to the floor

There are three options for attaching sheet material to the floor:

They are simply laid on a flat plank floor and secured with self-tapping screws.
Curved floors require a different approach. The sheet material is placed on polyurethane foam. You only need a little bit of it. It will even out the unevenness.

On enough smooth boards sheets can be nailed or screwed
self-tapping screws

You can use tile adhesive instead of foam. Apply to the floor, spread with a comb (notched trowel). Under the weight of the slab, the glue will be redistributed, filling the gaps. The sheets of the second row are laid at intervals between the seams (so that the seams are shifted at least 50 cm). They are attached to the first one with self-tapping screws. You can also immediately use foam and screws. They do this, but there is no particular need for it.

Rules for laying sheet material

In order for the flooring to be sufficiently strong and reliable, the sheet material is laid in two layers. The sheets are cut so that the seams in the layers are spaced 50 cm apart. This will reduce the likelihood of through cracks and prevent water (in case it somehow gets into the gap) from getting onto the boards. The sheets are not placed end to end, but leaving gaps of 3-7 mm. These are so-called expansion joints. The width of the seam depends on the type of material. The joints under the tiles do not need to be puttied, but if you want to achieve complete tightness, fill them with elastic sealant.

When laying sheets around the perimeter of the room - between the flooring and the walls - leave a gap of at least 1 cm wide. This is a compensation gap. It will allow the coating to change size with changes in humidity and temperature. To prevent the gap from remaining empty (this reduces sound insulation), it is filled with foamed polyethylene (used as a backing for laminate). The height of the damper tape is not lower than the level of the tile. The tiles should not rest against the walls. If you forget about it, it will fly off.

Laying tiles on a floor covered with sheet material

Before laying ceramic tiles, consider choosing a tile adhesive. There is tile adhesive for unstable substrates. This is just wood. It differs from the usual composition in that it remains elastic.

If you are laying tiles on a wooden floor in the bathroom, make sure that the adhesive has improved water-repellent characteristics. Paired with hydrophobic grout for joints, such a coating will be completely waterproof. Otherwise, laying tiles is no different. The whole process is identical to laying tiles on concrete.

There are, perhaps, a couple of points. But this is not necessary, but from the “how to do better” series. First, it will be easier if the tiles are small in size. Smaller tiles are less likely to cause cracks. There are more seams, they remain elastic. All advances are compensated at their expense. Mosaic is ideal in this regard, but not everyone can afford the price. Second. If you do use large-format tiles, when designing the tile layout, try to select it so that the seams of the tiles are above the seams in the base. It is desirable that the spacing of the seams be no more than 5 cm. This, again, will ensure that the seam “plays out” and the tile remains intact.

TsPS screed

If the bearing capacity of the foundation or floor allows, you can pour a screed on top of the wooden floor, and then lay tiles on it. Why is this tile laying technology better? The fact that all movements of the floor are taken over by the screed. It also ensures tightness. The concrete is simply laid with tiles as usual. Using regular tile adhesive.

Screed on a wooden floor under tiles - if beams and boards allow

If the bearing capacity of the foundation, joists and boards allows, a hydro-vapor barrier is laid on the floor surface. It must be placed on the walls and secured there. You can lay the same PVC film in two layers on this layer, but it will most likely tear. But torn insulation doesn't work. Therefore, it is better to take something more durable. Membranes or reinforced films much stronger, although more expensive. But redoing the entire floor because it will rot will cost more.

When laying waterproofing in the corners, where the material is lifted onto the wall, make small folds. This margin will not allow the film/membrane to stretch. This will increase the likelihood that it will remain intact. Reinforcing material is placed on the laid waterproofing metal mesh. For a regular floor, 100*100*3 mm is suitable. The mesh is welded, not chain-link. You don't want to have a trampoline instead of a floor. Therefore, you definitely need a welded one - with welded joints. The mesh sheets are laid overlapping one another by 15-20 cm. It is not necessary to tie them together.

Next, the beacons are placed and the screed is poured or laid. Wet or semi-dry - your choice. Minimum thickness 35-40 mm. By the way, you can lay heated floor pipes in this screed, but then you will need to lay a layer of insulation under the film.

The composition of the mortar for floor screed under tiles is standard. Cement + 4 parts sand + water. To reduce cracking, reinforcing fiber is added. This combination - reinforcement in the screed and micro-fiber reinforcement - increases the likelihood that the tiles on the floor are in wooden house will lie without problems. After the screed has matured - after 28 days - you can lay the tiles. There are no restrictions here. All movements will be leveled by a concrete slab.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

The vast majority of apartments, especially those built during the Soviet period, were equipped with wooden floors. But for rooms with high operating load or high humidity– such as corridors, kitchens, bathrooms, showers, tiled floors are more suitable. Ceramic tiles (tiles) are superior to wood in durability and practicality. It is much easier to keep it perfectly clean. But will the tiles fit on a wooden floor if you don’t want to dismantle it? Or is it not possible to do this?

What are the problems with laying tiles on wood?

The installation of tiled floors requires a perfectly flat, stationary base. Wood is sensitive to changes in the microclimate of the room: it swells with excessive humidity, dries out and shrinks when used at high temperatures. This type of base is not suitable for tiles: they will crack or begin to “walk”. When using tiles small size cracks will appear along the seams between the floor elements.

In turn, wood is also uncomfortable under the ceramic layer. Wooden parts deprived of natural ventilation will deteriorate much faster under the influence of dampness and microorganisms.

But modern materials and appropriate technologies make it possible to create an intermediate layer that allows tiles to be laid on a wooden floor.

Revision of old coating

Before choosing a method for preparing the base for laying tiles, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of it. The sequence of future work will largely depend on the condition of the old floors.

Under no circumstances should it be installed on newly constructed wood floors. They need to be given at least two to three years to shrink. So in new buildings you cannot lay tiles on wood. You must either wait or completely dismantle the floors and construct a fundamentally different base, for example, a concrete screed.

It should be noted that the tile covering is laid for a very long time. Therefore, you need to be absolutely sure that the elements of the old coating will last no less. There is no point in fussing with the tiles if they will soon have to be opened due to rotten elements of the base.

Professionals insist on a complete overhaul of old floors to find and replace all defective elements.

Be sure to check the condition and distance between them. It should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise the base may not withstand the weight of tiles, glue and other materials.

Strong boards that do not have visible defects can be used, but first they must be freed from the old coating: paint or varnish. This can be done in different ways:

Mechanical - clean the coating using an abrasive tool: sandpaper, grinder, grinder with a special attachment.
Thermal – heat the paint with a hair dryer. It will swell and be easily removed with a spatula. Some craftsmen manage to use a regular blowtorch for these purposes, but we must remember about the possibility of fire.
Chemical - remove varnish or paint using various reagents. But the tree, saturated with them, will continue to emit unpleasant odors, so this method is used very rarely.

Preparing the base

So, you should carefully disassemble the wooden floors and assess the condition of the joists. Replace defective ones, add additional joists if necessary, securely fasten them and level them.

All elements wooden structure the floor must be treated with an antiseptic. After it dries, you can update or replace the insulation. This could be a layer of expanded clay, mineral wool slabs or another type of thermal insulation. When laying, the recommendations for using the selected material must be followed.

Between the subfloor boards and the insulation it is necessary to leave a space of 5 cm to create natural ventilation.

When installing the flooring back, you should not pack the boards tightly, but leave a gap of a few millimeters between them so that the wood can breathe. A 10 cm gap is left between the floor and the walls. Then it can be sealed with polyurethane foam.

The progress of further work depends on the chosen method of preparing the base. The main ones are the device of lightweight screeds, or polyurethane adhesives.

A layer of solution consisting of sand (2 parts), liquid glass (2 parts) and water is applied to the floor surface. All components must be thoroughly mixed.

The tiles are fixed with two-component polyurethane adhesive. It retains its plasticity after hardening, so it will not only ensure reliable fastening of the tiles, but also compensate for slight vibrations of parts of the subfloor.

Lightweight screed

The point of this method is to create a solid and level base that is not connected to walls or wooden floors. This floating structure will ensure the integrity of the tile covering. The optimal thickness of the screed is 30 mm: a smaller thickness will not provide sufficient strength to the base, a larger thickness will significantly increase the weight of the floor.

A layer of waterproofing is created. It could be roll material: glassine, bitumen paper or even thick polyethylene. Waterproofing mastics or heated drying oil are often used. In this case, reinforcement with fiberglass mesh is used.
Damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the room between the floor and the wall.
A thin metal mesh is attached to the waterproofing layer with self-tapping screws.
A screed with a height of 30 mm is poured.

You can use a regular solution of cement and sand, but it is better to use self-leveling mixtures: they dry much faster and are more convenient to work with.

After hardening, the screed is primed, and then the tiles are laid in the same way as on a regular concrete base.

Plywood base

To create a flat and durable base for the tiles, sheets of plywood are used. It is better to cut them into 4 parts. Installation is carried out following the following recommendations:

After impregnating the base with an antiseptic and laying the waterproofing layer, the plywood is fastened in a checkerboard pattern.
A compensating gap of 5 mm is left between the individual elements. In the future, it can be sealed using sealant or foam.

Plywood is also subject to thermal expansion, which is why a compensating gap is needed between the individual sheets. A 10 mm wide gap is also left around the entire perimeter of the room.

The resulting surface is processed with a grinding machine along, across and diagonally. Then it is primed.

A waterproofing layer is formed from latex impregnation, paint mesh and liquid glass solution.

The tiles are attached with polyurethane glue.

Plywood can be replaced with slabs of moisture-resistant plasterboard or gypsum fiber. The technology will not be much different, but it is worth using components designed specifically for these materials.

Laying tiles

Tiles are laid on wooden floors in the same way as on a concrete base:

Laying begins from the middle of the room or from the far corner opposite the entrance.

For lightweight screeds or gypsum boards, it is recommended to use cement adhesive mortars; for plywood or boards, use two-component polyurethane adhesive.

Floor surface made of ceramic tiles ideal for bathroom, toilet, kitchen. But what if the base is wooden flooring and the event budget is limited? Many people have a question about how to lay tiles on a wooden floor in order to avoid completely dismantling the previous structure and constructing the floor base from scratch.

Features of a wooden floor

By its nature, wood is not a stable building material. With changes in temperature and humidity, wood products “play”, constantly expanding and then losing volume. The situation is considered normal when products and structures, even made from dried and carefully treated wood, shrink over several years, changing their geometry. Visually, minor movements that occur over a certain period are not noticeable. But for tiles, even slight instability in the geometry of the base can be disastrous - the lining peels off, the seams come apart, the tiles themselves crack and become unusable.

Based on what has been said, it seems that the answer to the question whether it is possible to lay tiles on wooden floors automatically becomes negative. But not everything is so sad. After proper preparation and some preparatory measures, the installation of facing ceramics on an initially unsuitable base becomes quite feasible.

The first step to success will be audit and proper preparation wooden floor. The durability of the base itself and the service life of the ceramic floor finish will directly depend on the thoroughness of the preparatory work. The second stage of creating a stable base for laying tiles will be the use of additional materials, which will give the wood base the necessary qualities.

Inspection and preparation of wooden floors

Wooden floorings are extremely rarely smooth, with boards that are not affected by time, moisture and insects, so preparation has to begin with unpleasant, time-consuming, but necessary dismantling. I'll have to start removing the layer. old paint, partial replacement of logs and floor boards, possibly by reducing the pitch of the load-bearing bars and correcting their position in the horizontal plane. The final goal of the preparation is to restore the wooden floor, provide ventilation between the structural elements, and, if necessary, insulate the base. Now everything is in order.

Sequence of stages of preparatory work

The first step in the preparatory process is to remove floor skirting boards(if they exist). After dismantling the wall decor, cracks will appear through which it is convenient to grab the first board from the wall and tear it off the supporting beam. It is convenient to remove the board with a nail puller or similar improvised tool. After dismantling the entire board, an inspection of the elements of the wooden floor structure is carried out. Boards and joists that are unsuitable for further use are discarded, while a suitable replacement is selected.

The second stage of preparation for laying tiles on a wooden floor will be removing old paint from boards suitable for further use. There are three ways to accomplish the task.

Exposure to layers of old paint with special chemicals(solvent), sold in construction markets. The substance is very caustic, so use protective equipment while working. Wetting the painted surface causes the paint to begin to flake off, after which it can be easily removed with a metal brush.
An angle grinder will help you mechanically clean a wooden surface. with a special wire attachment. The process is labor-intensive and very dusty, so it is better to do this in an open space, again, without neglecting protective masks, goggles, and mittens. A respirator will not be superfluous for this work.
The third method is to strongly heat the paint, As a result, it peels off and disappears on its own. A hair dryer is used as a heating device; if it is not available, a regular blowtorch is used.

The boards and joists, freed from old layers, are treated with protective impregnations, after which they dry, they begin to install a new wooden floor. First, logs are installed and fixed at one horizontal level; it is important to pay attention to this process special attention, since the evenness of the boardwalk will depend on the correct position of the bars. If you plan to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a wooden house, it is advisable to insulate the floor structure so that the floor cladding is not too cold in winter. To do this, fill the spaces between the joists with expanded clay or stove ash.

Next, the updated board is re-sewn along the joists, being attached to the beams with self-tapping screws. If necessary, the flooring is puttied (differences between adjacent boards are leveled), after which the created wooden base must be finally leveled for the direct laying of the floor cladding. How to lay tiles on a wooden floor without additional care for the stability of the base? The top layer of the prep cake will serve two functions.

The use of the following recommended techniques allows you to finally level the rough wooden base and give it additional stability:

use of plasterboard sheathing (GKLV);
leveling with OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood;
device of a relatively thin “wet” screed.

Let's consider these methods in more detail, because the quality of the base for installing tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom, kitchen or hallway depends on their correct implementation in practice.

Leveling with plasterboard sheets

To carry out the process of final preparation of the floor surface for laying tiles using the described method, you will need moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm (wall plasterboard). Alignment plasterboard sheets It is appropriate if the floor is relatively flat, without sudden changes. Installation of gypsum boards to a wooden base can be done in the following ways:

screw with self-tapping screws;
glue on polyurethane foam;
glue it onto the foam, then additionally tighten it with self-tapping screws.

The first method is advisable to use on a flat surface. wooden flooring. If there is a curvature of more than 3 cm per linear meter, it is advisable to use polystyrene foam, which is used for gluing polystyrene boards - this will make it possible to level out minor differences. In addition, the foam layer acts as a buffer between the unstable wood base and the plasterboard deck. Some craftsmen recommend a third method, when the glued gypsum board is additionally fixed to the underlying wood with self-tapping screws.

Alignment method wooden base plasterboard is good because it is fast and inexpensive. Additional insulation of the floor surface will also be a plus. But some experts criticize the fragility of the gypsum board base under such operating conditions.

Surface for tiles made of plywood and slabs

Tile tiles do not lie on a wooden floor, so to eliminate deformation movements of the wood, a multi-layer flooring structure is created, where moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is mounted on top. In the space between the top layer and the rough flooring wooden planks add a layer of buffer material - expanded clay of the smallest fraction (3-5 mm).

First, a layer of expanded clay bedding is distributed over the existing wooden surface and leveled as much as possible. One of the sheet materials is laid out on top. OSB boards or plywood must be laid out so that the seams in adjacent rows do not coincide. When the top layer of the floor cake is formed, the seams are puttied and reinforced with fiberglass mesh. Gaps of 1-1.5 cm are left between the slab flooring and the walls and filled with polyurethane sealant. Thanks to the existing gaps, the installation structure for laying ceramic tiles does not depend on the walls (floating) and the wooden floor (thanks to the buffer layer).

When leveling the surface with chipboards using an intermediate layer of expanded clay, backfilling of insulation between the joists is not necessary.

Wet leveling

This technology is the most expensive, but gives the best result, since it results in the creation of a cement-based floating base that has the best affinity for the tile adhesive. Levelers (packaged polymer-cement mixtures) or self-leveling solutions are used as materials for forming screeds. You can also use self-prepared cement-sand mortars, but we must not forget about the qualitative strengthening of the base wooden structure.

Step-by-step instructions for preparing a floor using the wet method look like this.

Strengthening the base. With this leveling method and a floor rough board thickness of 30 mm, the logs are placed in increments of 40 cm. With a board thickness of 40 mm, a distance between the load-bearing beams of 55 mm is allowed. If during inspection the pitch of wooden supports turns out to be large, it must be reduced to normal.
Formation of the flooring. Boards are sewn along the joists with a gap of 5-10 mm between them (for ventilation). Sheets of plywood or OSB are laid on top of the boards in a checkerboard layout and screwed to the boards with self-tapping screws.
Waterproofing. A thick polyethylene sheet is used, with which the flooring is completely covered, extending onto the walls at least 7 cm. If there are joints, they are carefully taped.
Filling the screed. Ready-made mixtures are used according to the manufacturers' recommendations. Self-prepared cement-sand mortar is poured and leveled along pre-installed orientation strips (beacons).

After the poured leveling base has dried, it is primed with an acrylic or polymer specialized mixture. The primed base is ready. Next, we’ll look at how to lay tiles on a wooden floor that has been prepared and leveled using one of the suggested methods.

Stages of preparation for facing work

For successful floor tiling tiles need to prepare a set the necessary tool, stock up on tile adhesive, calculate the number of tiles and decide on the method of laying the facing material.

The following tools will be useful:

two spatulas - toothed (comb) and regular, up to 100 mm wide;
mixer attachment for drill – needed for preparing polymer cement glue;
suitable cutting tool for tiles - manual or electric tile cutter, grinder with a diamond blade;
bubble building level - you can’t do without it when adjusting the position of individual cladding elements;
aluminum rule 1.5-2 m long - will be needed to control the evenness of the surface to be coated.

The consumption of tile adhesive will depend on the degree of curvature of the surface and the method of applying the solution. On average at floor installation tiles, one package (bag) of dry mixture (25 kg) is consumed for tiling 2.5-3.5 m2. This means that with a floor area of 9 m2 in a room, you will need 3 bags of polymer cement mortar.

The working adhesive solution is prepared approximately as follows.

Water is poured into a clean container to fill approximately 1/6 of its volume.
The dry mixture is gradually poured into the water until a slide grows above the water surface.
Using a mixer, thoroughly mix the dry substance with water until a homogeneous solution is obtained.
After 5-10 minutes, the solution is mixed again, after which it is ready for its intended use.

Tile adhesive is a “long-lasting” solution. Freshly prepared working mixture can be used for 2-3 hours. This time is quite enough to, at a low speed of laying tiles on the floor surface, produce a full capacity of 10-12 liters, so there is no need to rush with the cladding, even if this is the first experience.

To understand how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, thereby speeding up the work process, it is better to first lay out ceramic tiles without gluing. You immediately need to decide how the cladding will be done. Floor tiles can be placed like this:

classically, when the cladding elements form continuous longitudinal and transverse seams;
with offset tiles in adjacent rows (imitation brickwork);
diagonal layout.

There are more complex options When elements of different sizes are combined, patterns are formed. But this is the lot of professionals. A novice master should not get into the weeds and settle on one of the listed methods for forming floor cladding.