What is cheaper to build a garage with your own hands. Wooden garage with your own hands. Ceiling cover and roof

Let us consider in detail the construction of a garage with our own hands: which foundation, walls and roof to choose.

We will try to consider the pros and cons as much as possible. various materials and approaches to construction.

The choice of foundation and its calculation is best left to specialists. In the absence of such an opportunity, you need to focus on the weight of the walls and the characteristics of the soil. The strength of the soil can be tentatively estimated by excavating a pit at the construction site. It would be useful to talk with neighbors-developers.

On solid soils, the best solution would be to use strip foundations for garages with brick walls and columnar foundations for wooden buildings. In flooded areas and peatlands, a monolithic slab or screw piles are suitable. If the depth of soil freezing is more than two meters, the use of shallow foundations will provide significant savings. Consider all factors and your garage will serve for many years.

The foundation is the base of the garage, from right choice its design depends on the reliability and service life of the entire structure. The type of foundation should be chosen taking into account the weight of wall materials and the characteristics of the soil at the construction site.

Monolithic strip foundation

The monolithic strip foundation has a large bearing capacity, is one of the most durable and reliable foundations. It is a rectangular strip laid along the perimeter of the building. Strip foundations are used under walls made of brick, betonite and cinder block. The disadvantages of the strip foundation are its high cost and the complexity of construction.

Distinguish between deep and shallow foundations. In most cases, the sole of the foundation should be located below the freezing depth of the soil. This ensures the immobility of the structure when exposed to the forces of frost heaving. The foundation is made 10 cm wider than the thickness of the walls.

The walls of the garage are made as thick as a brick or half a slag block (about 20 cm), so the width of the base is chosen within 30–40 cm. With a significant depth of soil freezing and on heavily heaving soils, shallow foundations are used (by 30–60 cm). Due to the reduction in the area of ​​contact between the foundation and the ground, the effect of frost heaving forces is reduced, but the structure turns out to be floating.

The material for the construction of monolithic foundations are concrete and rubble stone. In some cases (two-story building, weak soils), the foundations are reinforced. For this purpose, 4 bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm are used, laid at the corners of the section of the tape a few centimeters from its surface. Reinforcement significantly increases the strength of foundations, but increases the cost of construction.

The erection of a monolithic strip foundation is performed in the following sequence:

1. They dig a trench with a depth of 5 cm exceeding the height of the underground part of the base.
2. Layers of sand and gravel 5 cm thick are laid at the bottom of the trench, the sand and gravel cushion is carefully rammed.
3. Expose formwork. The formwork serves to ensure that the cement laitance from concrete mix did not soak into the soil. On clay soils that do not allow water to pass through, the installation of formwork is not necessary. A trench is dug along the width of the foundation and its walls serve as formwork.
4. If necessary, tie the reinforcement.
5. Concrete is laid in layers of 30 cm, each layer is compacted with a rammer or vibrator.
6. After the foundation has hardened for 28 days, two layers of roofing material waterproofing are laid on top of it and the walls are erected.

During the construction of the base from buta, the stones are laid in layers of 30 cm on a sand-gravel cushion and poured with a cement-sand mortar.

Tape base of foundation blocks

The use of foundation blocks greatly facilitates construction. The disadvantage is the need to use a crane. For the foundation for the garage, FBS-9-Z-6t blocks with a size of 88x30x58 cm and a weight of 350 kg and FBS-9-4-6t with a size of 88x40x58 cm and a weight of 470 kg are used.

The bottom row of blocks is installed on a sand cushion. Vertical joints are filled with cement-sand mortar. A layer of mortar is applied to the upper surface of the blocks and the next row is laid with overlapping joints. If the height of the foundation is not a multiple of the height of the block, it is increased to the desired level with a layer of concrete.

On subsidence and undermined soils, block foundations are reinforced with monolithic reinforced concrete belts located in the upper and lower parts of the foundation.

slab foundation

The slab foundation is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, on the edges of which the walls rest. It is used on soft soils and when ground water located close to the surface. The advantage of using the plate is a small amount of earthworks, the disadvantages are the impossibility of building a viewing hole and a basement and an increased consumption of reinforcement.

Construction is carried out in the following sequence:

• remove the fertile soil layer;
• lay and ram the sand cushion;
• a layer of film waterproofing is laid on the sand;
• formwork is installed around the perimeter of the garage;
• one above the other, two meshes of reinforcement are mounted;
• laying and ramming concrete;
• the side surfaces of the plate are insulated with foam.

For a garage, it is enough to make a plate with a thickness of 10 - 20 cm. The dimensions of the mesh cell are 20x20 cm, the diameter of the reinforcement is 12 mm. With severe frost heaving and in the conditions of the Far North, the lower surface of the plate is insulated.

Column Foundation

Column bases are used for garages with light wooden, frame or foam concrete walls. They are carried out to the depth of freezing of the soil or shallow. The material for the manufacture of pillars are concrete and concrete blocks, steel and asbestos-cement pipes. Most often, concrete pillars are used.

Work is performed in the following order:

• dig pits under the pillars;
• sand cushions are arranged at their bottom;
• if necessary, tie the reinforcement;
• collect formwork;
• pour foundations with concrete;
• after the concrete has gained strength, two layers of waterproofing are laid on the upper surface of the base;
• the pillars are connected by beams that serve as the basis for the walls.

The beam can be wooden, metal or reinforced concrete. The cross section of the pillars and the width of the beam are chosen 10 cm more than the thickness of the walls. Pillars are installed at the corners of the garage, at the junction of the walls and after 1.5 - 3 m between them.

Screw piles

A screw pile is made from a metal pipe, one end of which is pointed, the other is equipped with a flange. Blades are welded to the pipe near the pointed end. The piles are coated with an anti-corrosion compound that provides a service life of more than 140 years. The advantages of screw piles are:

• the possibility of building on any soil (with the exception of rocky and stony), while the level of groundwater does not matter;
• resistance to frost heaving of the soil;
• savings of 30 - 60% compared to the tape base;
• the minimum amount of earthworks;
• reduction of construction time.

For garages with light walls, piles with a diameter of 108 mm can be used, with heavy ones - 133 mm. Piles are produced in lengths from 1650 to 7000 mm. The length is chosen so that the blades rest on solid rocks and are located below the freezing depth of the soil.

When installing piles, first pits are dug about 40 cm deep. A pile is inserted into the pit and rotated clockwise using a special tool. V winter time pre-drill leader wells. After installing all the piles, they are connected by beams.

garage walls

Foam concrete garage

To begin with, it is worth understanding what is foam concrete? Foam concrete is concrete with bubbles inside. It would be more correct to say, not just concrete, but cellular concrete. It is created from four components: mortar, a mixture of sand, water and a foam forming component.

The material is light, strong and at the same time has good heat-retaining properties. The block size is 20 * 30 * 60 cm. That is, one block is equal, in volume, to fifteen bricks. The cost is about 100 rubles. for 1 foam block

What is the advantage of building a garage from foam blocks?

The main advantages that can be identified:

1. The speed of construction, relative to the brick walls of the garage. Foam blocks are easy to saw and grind.
2. Light weight. The possibility of erecting walls in one hand, i.e. on one's own.
3. The cost of wall material is much cheaper than brick or other traditional materials.
4. Resistant to the appearance of mold, not subject to decay.

• Difficulty in finishing, requires special fastening material.

How to fold a garage wall from foam blocks?

Installation of foam blocks is quite simple. We breed special glue. It is sold in bags of 10 or 25 kg. We breed according to the manufacturer's instructions, but as a rule, it is about 5-6 liters per 25 kg of dry mix. The thickness of the adhesive layer is up to 5 mm, but with a quality material, a seam can be achieved within 2-3 mm.

We put the foam block on the foundation, coat it with the “bottom and side” and put the next block along the pre-tensioned index thread. It is easy to cut the block, you need to take an ordinary hacksaw, although a special device is used for the guide - a metal corner. For applying glue, you can also purchase a special “spatula”. The partition of the entrance, where the future gate will be installed, is reinforced with a beam or a double board. Do the same with windows if you have them in your project.

frame garage

Construction technology frame walls came to us relatively recently from the west. But Russian masters have already mastered it completely and appreciated it. For the construction of walls of materials you will need: timber 100 * 200 or 200 * 200 for the lower piping of the foundation. Board 150 * 50 for the frame of the walls and the top trim. Board 100 * 50 for jib. Batten of your choice, but not less than 40 mm thick.

The advantages of such a construction:

1. Fast installation. In the presence of all materials, the walls can be erected in 2-3 days alone.
2. Low cost. Construction savings. Enough cubic meter boards 150 * 50 for the installation of the frame.

1. At low costs for insulation, freezing of the "pie" of the walls.
2. Not great strength, the roof should be chosen easier.

How to build a frame garage with your own hands?

First, the “bottom” is assembled, that is, we make the lower trim and fill the floor. Next, we assemble the walls and raise them with the help of assistants or a winch / lever system. We align and perform the top trim. We cut the stubs. Next, we wrap the outside with a vapor barrier material of the “isospan” type and upholster the outside to taste. It can be OSB, plywood, boards for further upholstery with siding. Inside, we lay insulation, mineral wool or polystyrene between the boards, and also wrap it with vapor barrier material. The walls are ready for the interior of the garage.

This type of construction is the longest and most expensive, but capital and durable. The walls of the garage, as a rule, are built in one and a half bricks. That is, the thickness of the wall will be equal to the length of the brick plus another half. You can, of course, build in one brick. Perfect for a garage. It will take quite a lot of cement mortar. For 400 bricks - 1 m3, it will take from 0.18 to 0.22 m3 of mortar. You will also need iron for a reinforcing belt, which must be built horizontally into the masonry every 5-10 rows.

1. High strength
2. High heat resistance
3. Available various options exterior and interior finishes.
4. Durability, does not rot

1. The high cost of construction
2. Very long build
3. Mason skills required

cinder block garage

A cinder block is a block of cement, water and slag. The slag can include screenings in the manufacture of concrete, sawdust, etc. The blocks are cast in a mold, pressed and then dried. The main advantage of cinder block is the cost. Such blocks cost at least 1.5-2 times cheaper than foam or gas silicate blocks. But in terms of heat loss, cinder blocks can be compared with them.

1. Low cost of materials. Cheap blocks are stacked on glue.
2. Good heat resistance.
3. The speed of construction.

1. Fear of moisture.
2. Isolation of harmful and radioactive substances. Not suitable for residential areas.
3. Fragility.
4. Not enough durability up to 25-30 years.

Sawdust cinder block option -.

Garage roof

A garage for a car enthusiast is a second home. Here we can spend a lot of time, so it is important that the beloved car is kept in a warm, dry and cozy place. Its condition will largely depend on the quality of the roof. There are many roofing materials on the market. Their choice depends on the structural features of the garage and the financial capabilities of the owner. Slate, metal, tiles are used for roofing, but, most often, the roof is made of roofing material and corrugated board.

roof made of ruberoid

This material is often used for garage roofing, because it is affordable and practical, has good waterproofing properties. It is resistant to temperature changes, sunshine and precipitation. The coating does not require complex maintenance, and there are usually no difficulties with repairing the roof. For the manufacture of roofing material, roofing cardboard treated with special bitumen is used, which is then coated with a refractory compound.

When covering the roof with roofing felt, you need to make a reliable truss system and crate with frequent steps. To prevent the roofing material from tearing, it is better to make the sheathing solid using plywood sheets or OSB. This increases the cost of the roof and the power of the truss system, but allows you not to worry about the roof in winter when ice and snow appear.

Types of roofing material and the rules for its installation

Before starting roofing work, the roof surface must be thoroughly cleaned of old flooring. Laying is carried out only in dry weather, otherwise there will be no sealing on a wet surface, rot may form under the roofing material. Today, three types of roofing material are used for roofing:

Traditional

Before laying, the roofing material must be rolled out and left for a day. After cleaning and leveling, mastic of bitumen and filler is applied to the roof with a brush or roller. Laying is carried out using a burner, heating sheets of roofing material and mastic, and then rolling it with a roller. The roofing material is laid in several layers (at least two) parallel to the ridge, starting from the bottom and leaving 20 cm in reserve. This part is then wrapped under the visor. The first layer of roofing material without crumbs. Each next layer is laid with a shift of 20 cm after the previous one has completely cooled down. The top layer should have stone chips.

Self-adhesive

This is a new generation of roofing materials that do not need to be laid in gas burner. The self-adhesive lower surface of the roofing material is protected with a special film. Before laying, the film is carefully removed, without waiting for the bottom layer to dry. Roofing material is laid on the roof and pressed tightly to the roof. Lay the coating with an overlap of up to 15 cm, avoiding air bubbles.

Euroruberoid

It differs from the traditional coating in improved physical characteristics - increased strength, ductility, endurance to aging and temperature extremes. The top layer of the material is covered with basalt or granite chips, and the bottom layer is covered with a special anti-adhesive film. It protects the roll from sticking, and when heated serves as an indicator. When melting, the film indicates that the euroroofing material is warm enough for laying.

Roof made of corrugated board

Profiled sheeting is called profiled steel sheets, covered with layers of galvanized and protective polymers. The profile gives the sheets the necessary transverse stiffness and sometimes different heights and configuration. For roofing, profiled sheets of marking NS or H with a profile height of 20 cm or more are used.

Hot-dip galvanizing and coating of profiled metal with paint-and-lacquer polymer compounds protects the metal from corrosion and damage, and a wide range of colors of polymers provides visual appeal.

Of the advantages of corrugated roofing, the following qualities should be highlighted:

• relatively low cost of not only the material itself, but also installation work;
• strength and rigidity of the corrugated roof, resistance to all weather conditions;
• low weight of profiled sheets and, as a result, ease and speed of installation;
• durability of the material, resistance to sunlight, the polymer layer is not covered with chips and cracks from time to time;
• safety and environmental friendliness, refractory properties;
• outward attraction.

Due to the light weight of the material, laying sheets of corrugated board on the roof of the garage makes it easier to design the truss system. Roofing from corrugated board is mounted year-round, sheets can be easily cut at any angle, leaving virtually no waste. It can be attributed to its disadvantages the need to use special equipment during installation and relatively expensive maintenance of the roof.

The laying of sheets of corrugated board is overlapped in two waves, fixing them with special roofing screws with rubber gaskets. Unlike slate, self-tapping screws are always screwed into the crate into the recess of the wave, which is much easier to do. The horizontal overlap of adjacent sheets of corrugated board depends on the angle of inclination of the garage roof, It is:

• with a roof slope angle of 13-14 ° - at least 200 mm;
• at an inclination of 15 ° -30 ° - 150-200 mm;
• if the roof slope is more than 30°, the overlap can be 100-150 mm.

With a roof slope of less than 12°, all horizontal and vertical overlaps of corrugated sheets must be sealed with silicone sealant. Profiled sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws measuring 4.8x35 mm, and the ridge is fastened with self-tapping screws, the length of which is 80 mm. It is imperative that when installing the roof from corrugated board, steam and waterproofing of the roof, as well as provide for gaps that will ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.

Roof waterproofing

The roof is the one structural element building, which should protect the contents of the garage from external influences. To guarantee its integrity and durability, many factors are important, among which it is necessary. To fully perform its functions, roof waterproofing must have a number of properties, such as:

1. Moisture resistant. The material should retain water and water vapor well, prevent the formation of roof space fungi and mold.
2. Elasticity. The waterproofing layer must be resistant to elastic deformations. Even with minor loads, the lack of elasticity can lead to the destruction of the material.
3. Thermal resistance. This property prevents cold air from entering the garage through the roof, it helps to maintain a certain temperature in the building.
4. Strength. The waterproofing layer must resist deformation processes and withstand various external loads.

Experts offer two optimal options for waterproofing roofs in garages.

Roof membrane systems

This is a waterproofing material 1-2 mm thick, which consists of several layers hermetically glued together. The length of the sheet reaches 60 m, in width - from 0.9 m. The membrane sheet is resistant to UV rays, is not afraid of temperature changes, the period of its natural aging is less than 50 years. The diffusion properties of polymer membrane waterproofing prevent moisture from accumulating under the canvas and help solve two main problems: do not let moisture in from the outside and prevent steam from accumulating inside the garage.

The membrane sheet is fixed mechanically to the base of the roof. Special equipment using hot air heats up the seams and overlaps the sheets tightly welded. The material on the base of the roof is laid loosely to ensure good ventilation. When insulating the roof, a separating layer of geotextile is laid and basalt insulation as thermal insulation.

For waterproofing garage roofs of small sizes, polymeric liquid mastics are used, which are applied directly to the roof with a special sprayer, brush or roller. Mastic can cover any structure, regardless of the base material and its shape, for example, metal, reinforced concrete or wooden roofs.

Mastic waterproofing perfectly resists the rays of the sun and any weather conditions, including frost. At the same time, the film retains its elasticity, does not deform or melt, is not afraid of vibration and chemicals. After applying the mastic, vulcanization occurs and a rubber-like coating is formed that fills all cracks in hard-to-reach places.

truss system

For a garage, the construction of a shed or gable roof. The truss systems of such roofs are made of coniferous wood,.

A shed roof is made without a ridge, struts and racks for buildings with spans of 6-8 m. It is considered the most convenient truss system for garages, outbuildings, etc. Installation is quite simple: a rafter system is constructed with supports, which is fastened on top with a crate located perpendicular rafters. The reliability of the entire roof depends on the strength of the resulting frame.

A gable roof is made when they want to have an attic space or with a large garage area. The frame of such a roof consists of several pairs of rafter legs, connected at the top point into a ridge. The lower supports of the rafters are the walls of the garage, on which the Mauerlat is installed. Slings are attached to it with anchors or other devices.

Rafter systems pitched roofs are divided into layered and hanging. Their frames consist of triangular-shaped elements, which allows not to lose rigidity. In the first case, the structure has several points of rigid fastening with posts resting on an additional main wall or columnar supports. Hanging systems do not have intermediate supports and cover spans of more than 7 m. The only reference point for the rafters is the garage wall. The second end of the rafter is joined in the upper part of the roof with the opposite rafter.

The construction of any garage ends with a roof, which should provide comfortable conditions inside the building. Your task, using the accumulated experience, is to choose best option roofs for your building, to build a strong and stable roof that will protect from rain and wind, retain heat and be impervious to moisture.

Consider wooden truss systems, which are suitable for mounting a roof for a garage, the walls of which are made of foam concrete, using frame technology, cinder block, brick walls. wooden rafters lightweight, but at the same time strong enough to withstand the load of snow and winds. By type, garage truss systems can be divided into shed - the slope is carried out in one direction, as a rule, the front is higher than the reverse side. And gable - that is, a slope in both directions from the middle. It is easier, of course, to install a shed roof, but the view will be ordinary without beauty. Although, here it's an amateur.

We'll need planks, perfect edged board 150x50 for rafters and a board 100x25, it is also an “inch” for mounting the crate.

Tilt angle pitched roof for a garage will vary depending on the material with which the roof will be “covered”. For example, for metal tiles this figure is 25-30 degrees, and for slate 35-40. If you make a roof according to a “simple” roofing material or, as they say, cover the roof with roofing paper, then you need a slope of at least 40 degrees and the crate should be solid.

The assembly order is as follows, we make a rise from a board or a bar, we put 150x50 boards along the entire garage at a distance of 50-100 cm.

double garage roof

We need boards 150x50 mm for rafters. It is necessary to determine the angle of inclination of the roof. Much depends on the weather and climate conditions. If there are a lot of winds, then an angle of 15-20 degrees will be optimal. If it is rainy and snowy, then it is worth slightly increasing the angle to 25-30 degrees. So, we have decided on the angle of inclination of the roof. Next, let's start making the rafters. We cut them at the selected angle and fasten them in the ridge. We fix the plates on both sides. Next, we make cuts for stability and put on the upper harness.

The number of rafters for a 5-meter garage must be calculated based on a distance of 600-1200 mm. It all depends on the chosen roofing material and its severity. Next, we cover it with a windshield and begin to nail the crate. If the roof is planned to be covered with roofing felt, the crate must be solid. It can be OSB or plywood sheets.

It is quite possible to build a comfortable garage yourself in a month. Of course, if there is an assistant, then the work will go faster and it is quite possible to meet within two weeks. The main thing is to decide on the choice of material.

Consider the most available materials, from which to build a garage, with the lowest cost in terms of complexity:

• Finished metal constructions can be installed in a day on a shallow foundation or concrete slabs. The disadvantage of such a building is the need for high-quality insulation and waterproofing.
• The corrugated board option will cost less, but welding will be required.
• Sandwich panel garage - fast and convenient. Insulated panels with a thickness of at least 100 mm are mounted on a metal frame. A foundation device for such a building is not required; a compacted crushed stone pillow is enough. For a private house, ideal fast and convenient option at minimal cost.
• If there is access to inexpensive wood, then it is reliable and durable. Logs treated with antiseptic and fire retardants are not inferior to stone and brick in terms of thermal insulation and durability, and even better.
• A reliable and warm brick garage will cost more, for it you will need to fill in a tape or slab foundation and take care of the insulated roof. A foam concrete garage will cost less, but in this case you will have to think about high-quality insulation and waterproofing.

Let us consider in more detail each construction option, then it will be easier to decide which garage to build is more profitable for you.

If you compare by price, then cinder blocks are a budget choice. The principle of building from brick or stone is similar, so let's look at the construction of blocks step by step.

Available for sale different variants blocks, but it is important to pay attention to their configuration. Solid blocks should be used for the foundation, they better withstand heavy loads, and hollow blocks for the walls of the garage.

Types of blocks and their characteristics:

• Materials pressed from blast-furnace slag, with the addition of perlite or polystyrene, are the most reliable and durable.
• After construction, the shell stone requires obligatory plastering of the walls from the inside and outside, but is famous for its excellent thermal insulation characteristics.
• Foam concrete is convenient and inexpensive, does not require finishing, keeps heat well.

The disadvantage of any block material is that it is not resistant to moisture. Even on dry soils, it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing on the foundation. With a high occurrence of groundwater in the area expensive pleasure- you need serious waterproofing, it is better to choose other materials.

Foundation device

A brick garage (in one, half a brick) or cinder blocks can be safely laid on a reinforced strip foundation of medium depth. Tape width 40-45 cm, depth 50 cm, no less.

A building made of foam concrete or cinder block must be installed on a low hydro- and heat-insulated base to cut off moisture from the soil. An ordinary rolled roofing felt in two layers is perfect for construction.

After the foundation has been erected, the plinth is heat and vapor insulated with a special material. A universal version of hydro, heat and vapor barrier is a simple roofing material. For vapor barrier, you can choose a special membrane for foundations.

It is important to remember that it will take 28 to 30 days for the concrete to harden, depending on the weather. Therefore, it is better to fill the foundation in early spring, when the soil thaws, but there is still no heat. This Better conditions for perfect curing of concrete and construction of any concrete base.

You can fill the base in the fall, but here you need to focus on the weather. Cinder blocks can only be mounted in dry weather, the material must not be allowed to get wet.

Masters advise a brick base for a garage - it is more reliable and durable. Plinth height, depending on soil moisture 10 - 20 cm.

Be sure to provide for a blind area, 50 cm wide

Wall construction, screed, roofing

Do-it-yourself block masonry is much easier and faster to do than brick or stone. If you need a warm garage, then we lay out the walls using the poke method in one stone. For the southern regions, the floor of the stone, laid by the spoon method, is quite enough.

Important. We install the gate before we start building walls. The same rule is observed when laying bricks.

For the north, it is necessary to build a wall of at least two stones, since a wall of one stone freezes at a temperature of -15 and above, serious insulation will be needed, which is not cheap.

To make the wall of the building even, first lay out the corners, and then lay the cinder blocks along the cord according to the method brickwork overlapping the seam of the bottom row.

The floor screed can also be poured with M200 cement, it is cheaper, but at least ten centimeters thick.

Brick or stone masonry

We also install walls made of brick or stone on a strip foundation of medium depth with the obligatory arrangement of a basement. Sequence and nuances:

• A plinth for brick and stone needs a height of at least 10 cm.
• It is important to lay roofing material waterproofing on top of the basement.
• Before the walls are built, the garage doors must be installed so that they are firmly embedded in the brickwork. Mortgage bars with a step of 30 cm are welded along the perimeter of the gate and embedded in the seams of the brickwork.
• We put the brick in the usual way (chain), starting from the corners.
• Masonry mortar: cement M400, not lower, in proportions of a bucket of cement to four buckets of sand. It is important that the solution is not liquid, the consistency of thick sour cream is better. For plasticity, you can add half a bucket of clay or milk of lime.
• The height of the wall at the gate is 250 cm, the slope towards the back wall to a height of two meters.

If you need a wall height of three meters or more, then the walls need to be reinforced metal mesh. The most reliable reinforcement option is every fifth row of brick laying.

The slope for the roof must be no less than five centimeters per meter of wall masonry. Standard slope for good water flow with a wall height difference of 30 centimeters.

Roof

We choose a shed roof based on the budget - slate will cost less, corrugated board will have to be additionally insulated with a layer of plywood or other sheathing material.

Ceilings for a garage can be made of wood, but metal beams are more reliable and durable. They are embedded in the walls to a depth of 10 cm. For cinder block walls, it is important to strengthen the installation site of the beam with a layer of concrete.

What else is important to pay attention to:

• The pitch of the floor beams is 80 cm with a slope along the level of the walls.
• Protrusion outside the walls at least 20 cm.
• Rough filing from unedged board 40 mm with a minimum of gaps.
• As a waterproofing on the boards - rolled roofing material.
• A layer of insulation along the roofing material - expanded clay, slag, mineral wool. It is undesirable to use polystyrene, it has zero air conductivity, which is dangerous for the garage.

Everything wooden structures be sure to paint or treat with a deep penetration antiseptic for wood. Building a garage with your own hands will cost 50 percent less than hiring a team of builders, but it will also take twice as long.

Prefabricated metal structures with different skins

The disadvantages of a metal garage are cold and high humidity. Building a garage from ready-made sheets on a frame is fast and convenient. On a frame welded from metal, two wall options can be installed:

• Sandwich panels are slabs of two profiled metal sheets with a layer of insulation inside.
• Decking - only marking PS or S is suitable for walls. Sheet rigidity is at least 20. For a light and durable structure, C-20 corrugated board is needed.

Solid concrete blocks or concrete slabs are suitable as a foundation for such a prefabricated structure. Some craftsmen are sure that there is simply no more reliable slab than a flooded slab monolithic foundation, 50 cm deep.

The frame posts are concreted into the foundation. Be sure to provide a blind area, up to 20 cm wide.

Sheets of corrugated board or sandwich panels are installed on the installed and welded frame using screws, rivets or bolts.

wooden garage

Building a wooden garage is inexpensive and fast. Now prefabricated structures using frame technology are very popular. Such buildings are light, do not require a serious foundation, and it is possible to insulate the walls.

Main important steps:

• The base can be monolithic reinforced on a sand or gravel pad with a blind area around the perimeter of 20 cm or made of cheap material - concrete blocks, from 30 cm thick.
• An inexpensive columnar foundation is also suitable for a frame garage.
• Since the tree warps from moisture, the main focus is on waterproofing the foundation and basement. Logs and boards must be treated with water-repellent impregnation and painted.
• Lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material around the entire perimeter of the foundation and along the plinth.
• Corner posts are made of timber, and the rest of the frame is made of boards 50x100, this is quite enough. A 25x100 board is also suitable for the upper logs, but the lower bars must be taken thicker.
• Lower harness with an interval of 120 cm.
• On the frame, you can mount any finishing material - facade siding or lining.
• A layer of vapor and waterproofing between the outer and inner skin - mineral wool in rolls or slabs, vapor barrier film and plain polyethylene.
• The roof can be installed both single-pitched and double-pitched, depending on the chosen building design.

From the inside, you can sheathe the frame with plywood sheets and paint with paint with the addition of flame retardants. In wooden garages, the gates are installed last so that the building does not lead under the weight of the metal.

V modern world each family has its own vehicle, some families can even afford to have several. The most common is the car. He becomes a real member of the family, he is taken care of, looked after and tries to keep in good conditions. Therefore, many car enthusiasts prefer their own garage to street parking, which serves not only as a home for the car, but also as a storage place. necessary tools and a station for the repair of the "iron horse".

Important Features

Having your private house or a cottage, many owners prefer to have a garage nearby for a car. Moreover, it can be built with my own hands, even without having a construction or architectural education.

You just need to study well the materials for creating this simple design, correctly execute the plan and all preliminary calculations.

First of all, you need to decide what kind of building you need to build. Garage can be small standard sizes for one car, have a flat pitched roof. It can also be turned from a parking space into a whole complex of useful premises on a personal plot.

So, it can be two-story or with a gable roof, and under it there can be a small cozy attic, which will serve, for example, as a lounge or guest room.

It is also possible to equip not just a viewing hole, but a real cellar for storing blanks for the winter, extra things. In such a garage, you can organize a small hozblok by installing racks, shelves, a desktop and even a sink.

For owners of two cars or a truck, you just need to increase the building parameters. You can even make separate blocks by building an additional partition. There are many options for building a garage. You just need to decide on the individual needs, desires and material capabilities of the owner.

Choice of material and design

This issue must be approached with all responsibility. Based on how much money will be allocated for construction, whether it will be an economy option or a luxurious room, you can proceed to the choice of the design itself and materials.

In the modern construction market there is a huge variety of materials, both cheap and expensive. Among them are:

• brick;
• sandwich panels;
• cinder blocks;
• gas silicate blocks;
• reinforced concrete slabs;
• polycarbonate;
• shield material.

In the role of auxiliary materials can be used:

• sleepers;
• bars;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• cement.

Currently, the design of garages can be completely different. The most popular and simple can be called the usual rectangular structure. Today, the garages of the “pencil case” or “shell” type, popular in Soviet times, are practically a thing of the past. They could be installed anywhere, as they were more like tents for cars.

Such "pencil cases" garages quickly became popular. They had a number of advantages:

• low price and ease of installation;
• protection of the car from bad weather and theft;
• the ability to place near the house;
• additional storage space.

Today we can distinguish the following types of garages:

1. From brick. This is a solid building that will last for many years. But at the same time, it is the most complex and expensive.
2. From various blocks. It is warm, has less weight than brick, and the material for construction is cheaper.
3. From metal. For its manufacture, professional welding is required. This lightweight design, but such a garage is very cold and requires insulation.
4. frame garage. It is easy to build. Any available materials may be used.

There are even such motorists who build an underground garage. It is not visible to others and saves space on the site. It is easy to bring all communications to it directly from the house: electricity, heating, plumbing, and even sewerage. In addition, it can be accessed directly from the house.

Project

The first and very important stage of construction is the development of the project. Prior to its approval, it is necessary to determine the place of construction. The garage can be either freestanding or attached to any building on the site. The main thing is that it is comfortable to use and it fits into the overall design of the yard.

A detached garage is chosen if, with such an arrangement, it will be more convenient to drive up to it. You can even build it in such a place that the gate will immediately open onto the road.

An attached garage is useful if the main building is close to the outside of the property. With this arrangement, it even becomes possible to combine communications with the house.

As for the construction costs depending on the choice of location, it should be noted that a separate garage will cost less, since in the case of an extension, it will be necessary to strengthen the foundation of an existing building, which will inevitably incur additional costs.

When creating a project, it is not necessary to resort to the help of professionals. It is necessary to make at least the simplest drawing indicating all the dimensions of the planned building. The main thing is that the drawing contains information about:

• Purpose of construction. If the garage is designed only for storing a car, its area will be smaller than if it is planned to equip additional places for storing equipment, repairing a car or relaxing there.
• The size of the building. They depend primarily on the size and number of cars.

Having decided on the location, drawing a project of a capital structure with planned dimensions, you can begin the calculation of materials and, accordingly, the cost of them.

This stage must be taken extremely responsibly, because errors in the calculations can lead to a shortage of materials or, conversely, to unnecessary spending.

Marking and earthworks

In order to transfer finished project on the ground, you will need the following tools:

• strong kapron thread;
• roulette;
• stakes or parts of reinforcement;
• big hammer.

With the help of them, you will need to make the same drawing, only already on the ground and in full size.

After that, you can proceed to earthworks. You can dig trenches either manually or with a mini excavator, if available. Immediately it is necessary to prepare a place for a viewing hole, if necessary. Its depth should be about two meters, although this figure may vary.

The main thing to consider is that the depth is considered optimal, 15-20 cm more than a person’s height. The width will be enough up to 1 meter. The length of the pit, about two meters, is sufficient to repair any car.

For the foundation of the future foundation, the optimal depth of the trench will be from 60 to 100 cm. Although it is worth considering the type of soil and climatic conditions. If necessary, it can be increased.

Foundation: options

Today there is a wide variety of foundations. But the most common can be called a monolithic foundation. You can build it in two ways:

• small stones are laid in a trench, then poured with concrete mortar;
• reinforcement is installed in the trench and filled with mortar.

It must be taken into account that the foundation must be above ground level. Therefore, formwork is additionally manufactured and installed. Its height will indicate the level of the foundation. Thus, the construction of the garage foundation has the following steps:

1. Stone is laid in the trench in layers, each is poured with concrete.
2. Formwork is installed around the perimeter. It is made of boards about 10 cm wide strictly according to the level.
3. The material for moisture insulation is laid on top. Roofing material is good for this purpose.
4. Concrete mortar is poured at the level of the formwork and leveled.

It is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the structure. This will take about three weeks. Otherwise, the foundation will be short-lived.

erection

Quickly, efficiently and for a long time, you can build a garage on your site from brick or expanded clay concrete slabs. The principle of their laying is the same. They differ only in size.

Walls

After the foundation has dried, you can proceed to laying the walls. Be sure to lay waterproofing a little wider than the wall.

The laying of bricks or blocks should take place according to a scheme in which the elements of the upper row overlap the seams of the lower one. Construction is better to start from the corners. The evenness of the walls is controlled by a level and a plumb line.

You need to take care of the mortar for masonry walls. It must be kneaded at the rate of one bucket of cement per 4.5 buckets of sand. It shouldn't be too liquid. To achieve the plasticity of the solution, you can extract half a bucket of clay. In the future, this will prevent delamination.

If the project had windows and doors, then under them, respectively, an empty space is left according to the desired dimensions of these structures.

Roof

There are 2 main types of roofs:

• lean-to;
• gable.

Shed roof has more simple design, it is less costly. But during its construction, you need to remember that you need to make a slope. Its optimal value is 10-12 degrees. With this value, precipitation does not accumulate and completely leaves the roof. Probably the only disadvantage of such a structure is the lack of an attic.

As for gable roof, then it is more difficult in equipment, more expensive due to the need to purchase additional material. On the other hand, under it you can build an attic or attic.

If you still build a shed roof, then you should start from its base. Are taken wooden beams and stacked across the building with an approximate step of one meter. Then they need to be sewn wooden beam at least 4 cm thick as tightly as possible.

The next layer is roofing material and insulation. Next, you need to equip and pour a cement screed. As a final topcoat, for example, aquiazole or rubemax can be used. It is better to build visors on the front and end sides of the roof.

Gates, windows, doors

It is necessary to mount metal-plastic or wooden windows and metal doors.

Windows can be made sash (hinged), lifting or deaf at will. Although the latter option is not recommended, as it will not be possible to ventilate the room, and harmful substances may accumulate in it. chemical substances. Besides at modern windows it is possible to choose type of glasses. They can be:

• patterned;
• sun protection;
• anti-glare;
• unbreakable;
• fire fighting;
• multilayer.

Each type has its own properties, and depending on the needs of the owner, you can choose either the original appearance either ease of use or safety. Naturally, the price of such windows will be much higher.

As for the gate, there are also several options. You can install conventional double-leaf metal gate, or you can choose the more expensive option and install roller shutters, which can be manual or electric. The last option, of course, is the most expensive, and installation and configuration remote control it is better to entrust professionals. On the other hand, this option is the most prestigious, easy and convenient to use.

There are several types of garage doors depending on their design:

• Swing. They are inexpensive and consist of two leaves of the canvas, they are easy to make with your own hands.
• Sectional. They are a sectional canvas, which, when opened, rises to the ceiling with the help of a lifting mechanism.
• Rollback. Open by sliding to the side.
• Roller shutters. They consist of plates, which, when opened, are folded into a specially made box.

Also, the gate must meet the following requirements:

1. ensure unhindered and comfortable check-in and check-out of the car, fully comply with its dimensions;
2. be durable and burglar-resistant;
3. provide protection from environmental influences.

Closing openings

Openings and cracks must be filled. This is best done on 2/3 of the gap. Once the foam dries, the excess can be trimmed to give an aesthetic appearance to the structure. After that, they can be trimmed with corners made of plastic, metal or wood.

Parapet

On the roof along the front and side parts, it is recommended to equip a parapet of about 20-30 cm in height. It can be made of brick or foam concrete.

Floor and wall insulation

The floor in the garage must be arranged flush with or slightly above the basement. The design must be strong and durable.

First of all, you need to level the base well. Lay a layer of crushed stone about 5 cm on it. Then it is necessary to fill the floor with concrete mortar and level it well. The concrete layer will turn out to be impressive, it needs to be allowed to dry well.

The floor in the garage can also be made of concrete slabs, and the space between them should be laid with small stones and cemented.

Since the garage is used all year round, it is better to immediately insulate its walls. To do this, you can use mineral wool or foam. The insulation scheme is simple: a crate is attached to the walls, it is better to apply waterproofing to it. Then the insulation blocks are laid. At the end, sheathing is performed, for example, from drywall, siding or lining.

With this wall decoration, the garage will turn out to be warm, it will not freeze in the winter. And the car will be in comfortable conditions.

Roof waterproofing

Garage roof waterproofing is an important stage of construction. How dry the room will turn out will depend on its correct implementation, because the roof will not let moisture through in bad weather or in winter. In the process of roof waterproofing, every stage is important - from the choice of materials to competent and professional installation.

For its correct implementation, it is necessary to correctly select materials. They should be:

• durable - the material must be resistant to loads and environmental influences;
• elastic - this property should save the waterproofing layer from destruction in case of any deformations;
• have good water-repellent characteristics - the material must not let through not only the water itself, but also its vapors;
• heat-resistant - this is important for maintaining and maintaining heat in the room.

There are several types of waterproofing materials on the building materials market:

1. Membrane systems. The membrane has good properties and can be used even with strong temperature fluctuations. This is a very durable material. It can last up to 50 years. It can be installed in all weather conditions.
2. polymer mastics. They have high strength, reliability and durability. They do not need repair for several decades. Such a coating retains its performance properties even in harsh climates, it is not afraid of either frost or sun, it does not melt or crack. When applying the mastic, there are no seams, which is an additional protection against external factors.
3. Film coatings. The special roofing film has microperforation. Thanks to micropores, air is ventilated. Roofing anti-condensation film is made of viscose, which allows it to absorb moisture well. This type of waterproofing is best used when constructing roofs from metal tiles or corrugated board.

Liquid rubber, mastic is well suited for waterproofing a shed roof. It should be noted that waterproofing works are best done in warm sunny weather.

Finishing work inside and outside

Choice of internal and external options finishing works limited only by imagination and finances. Finishing can be as minimal as possible, using simple and cheap materials such as cement mix, whitewash or plaster, or it can be spent on it and give the garage a presentable look both outside and inside. brick walls can be trimmed with clapboard or siding.

In two-story garages, much attention can be paid to finishing the second floor or attic. From it you can get a full-fledged room, if you dream up and give it an original design.

Finishing the outer surface of the garage can be done in various ways:

• plaster;
• stitching;
• finishing with natural stone;
• facing with sheet materials.

Exterior wall plastering can be produced in different colors. There are various decorative plasters, such as terrasite, stone or lime-sand. Stone ones are the most durable, but when finishing them, you need to invest a lot of effort and money in the work. They are applied in two to four layers with a total thickness of about 10 cm.

Lime-sand plasters are applied with the addition of a small amount of cement. Mica can be added to terrasite plaster to give walls an attractive sheen. After the layer of such plaster has dried, it must be wiped off. With the help of seams, you can give them a different shape and color.

Layers of stone chips can be applied to the outer walls of the garage. It must be moistened with water and applied directly to a fresh primer coat.

Finishing the garage can also be done by painting it. Before this, the walls must be sanded. After painting oil paints you can apply varnish to the walls to give them shine. The varnish is applied to a dry, clean surface, preferably in two layers.

You can also use nitro paints. They are usually released in ready-made and applied with spray guns. They dry very quickly.

Interior decoration is also an important element. It not only protects the garage from harmful environmental factors, but also makes it look attractive. It must meet the following requirements:

• Be nonflammable. Even with a small ignition, the fire can go to it, this should not be allowed.
• Be resistant to contact with chemicals.
• Be carefree.
• Resistant to dirt and damage.

Plaster internal walls garage for today is economical and in a simple way finishes. It is non-flammable, easy to repair and great for almost any garage structure.

Interior decoration can be done using ceramic tiles. It is fireproof, protects against moisture, mechanical damage, chemical influences, and is easy to clean. With this finish, the garage becomes cozy and presentable. By the way, this type of finish is best done on brick or concrete walls that are thick enough.

Another way to finish is to cover with plastic sheets. It is easy to perform and economical. PVC panels are fire resistant and waterproof. They are easy to install and give the garage a well-groomed look.

The ceiling of the garage can also be plastered or coated plastic panels. The material of its lining may depend on the desires and preferences of the owner.

Since there is often not enough light in the garage, you often have to use power tools or electric heaters, then at the finishing stage it is also necessary to supply electricity to the garage in any convenient way. The garage is usually connected to the power supply through a common house machine.

The wiring diagram must necessarily include separate lines for 220 and 380 V. In order to properly equip the building with electricity, it is necessary to draw up a power supply circuit. It takes into account all electrical appliances that will take place in the garage, and their location. These are sockets, and lighting fixtures, and heaters.

It is desirable that each line be connected separately, for this it is necessary to use circuit breakers.

After connecting the power supply, sockets and switches can be installed. Decorative lamps are installed on the walls and ceiling of the garage. If there is a viewing hole, you must not forget about its lighting.

Installation of electricity can be done independently, only if you have special knowledge and skills for this, because this is a very difficult and even dangerous task.

It will be easier and safer to entrust this work to qualified specialists. Of course, their work will cost quite a lot, but you won’t have to worry about the result. Experienced electricians will definitely check the quality of all connections after completion of work and give a guarantee for their work.

Heating selection

But even when the garage is insulated, it is better to additionally equip the heating system in it, especially if it will be used to repair the car. Heating can be of two types - constant and intermittent.

Permanent heating is a reduced copy of the heating system at home. It's expensive and troublesome. With this type of heating, it will be necessary to install radiators in the garage and connect them with an additional pipe to the heating system of the house. You can also use gas heating if there is a gas pipe next to the garage.

Periodic heating is not difficult to organize. But at the same time it is not particularly comfortable and convenient. With this type of heating system, garages are equipped with stoves, always with chimneys. You can heat them with any combustible material. But often it is not possible to achieve uniform heating of the room with their help. Such heating appliances must be placed as far away from combustible objects as possible to avoid a fire.

Therefore, often in garages they use the simplest methods of heating - heat guns. They are mobile, do not cause unnecessary trouble and warm the room well. The heat gun is powered by electricity. They can be placed in several different places if the garage area is impressive.

You can also use the air heating option. It is necessary to build a ventilation duct, select a heat exchanger and a fan. The most effective is the direction of hot air from the bottom up.

You can also heat the garage using infrared radiation. To do this, a heater is bought and connected to the mains. With this method, the heating of the room is achieved in a few minutes. Such heating system works even with the garage door open.

When choosing heating in the garage, they are most often guided by the following important criteria:

• ease of maintenance;
• availability;
• ease of operation;
• reliability and efficiency.

Summing up, it should be noted that the construction of a garage is not too difficult, but a very responsible task. Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the location of the building, because it must be both convenient and safe.

So, for example, it is not recommended to build a garage in the back of the yard, as this can complicate an unhindered access to it. In addition, it is better to erect it on a flat surface or elevation, but in no case in a lowland. Groundwater and precipitation can accumulate there, which will lead to a reduction in its service life.

It is better to place the building away from trees in order to avoid their sudden destruction and the germination of roots under the foundation.

You need to think in advance what the design of the garage will be. The choice of building materials, insulation, waterproofing and even finishing, internal and external, will depend on it. It is immediately better to take into account the features of the building, whether it is the presence of a viewing hole or even a cellar, the type of roof.

On the pitched roof you can build a terrace for relaxation. When choosing a gable, it would be nice to build an attic, an attic, or even a full-fledged second floor. So you can immediately "kill two birds with one stone": get a reliable home for a personal car and additional living space, for example, to accommodate guests.

It is necessary to correctly draw up a construction project and correctly calculate the required amount of building materials in order to avoid unnecessary expenses.

When building a garage, you must strictly follow the sequence, norms and rules of construction. Do not neglect constant measurements, control of the level and quality of the materials used.

Depending on the cost of construction, you can choose either a more economical version of the roof, gates and finishes, or, if possible, use innovative technologies when choosing gates, thermal and waterproofing, heating and building cladding.

It is also possible to partially or completely resort to the help of professionals who can correctly mount various elements of the building.

Particular attention should be paid to the interior and exterior of the garage. They can combine an attractive appearance, and protection from harmful environmental factors, and ease of installation and even safety in operation.

Be sure to take into account the presence of communications in the room - electricity, plumbing and heating. They can be both combined with common houses and made autonomous.

Thus, the construction of a garage is a slow process, quite laborious and requiring great care and responsibility. But if you follow all the standards, rules and regulations, take into account all kinds of factors, then the end result will be of high quality, durable and convenient. Such a garage will not only be cozy home for a car, comfortable for repair work and storing all kinds of tools, but will also become a reason for pride and decoration of a personal plot.

A car for real motorists is not only a means of transportation, but also a reliable colleague, friend and "fascinating designer". The car is looked after, spark plugs, oil are changed, excellent fuel is poured. But the highest manifestation of care is the construction of a garage with your own hands. Such structures are rightfully called the most reliable, since they were erected by scrupulous vehicle owners who know best of all what kind of “living space” is needed for their four-wheeled “iron friend”. In addition, money is saved from the family budget, since unnecessary materials are not purchased and various expensive services are not used.

Assemble a garage constructor in a few days

Paperwork

A self-made garage that is built on a land plot that is not intended for construction is considered a self-build from the point of view of the law. The same applies to the situation when work is carried out on land that does not belong to the owner of the car. Permits for the finished building do not need to be issued if:

• garage is not capital (metal and frame buildings);
• the building was erected for non-commercial purposes on a summer cottage or garden plot;
• The building is an auxiliary building.

All other options for unauthorized development are subject to legalization. A plot of land is also subject to registration, if such a procedure has not been carried out before.

Types of garages

Shelters for the car are built in different ways. It all depends on financial capabilities, personal preferences and the available area for development. The garage can be attached to the house from the end of a country or residential building or behind it, or built under the house itself.

There are built-in garages with offset floors, but such an arrangement creates inconvenience during operation. On sale there are collapsible designs. If desired, you can arrange a canopy. The price of building a garage of this type is tolerable. Such a structure is the simplest, but at the same time an unreliable option.

But the most popular are free-standing garages, which are best located closer to the entrance to the land, so as not to lay access roads through the entire territory, which “eat up” valuable square meters. You can place the garage on the building line of the site so that the garage doors go directly to the street. Similar buildings are capital made of brick with a gable or flat roof, part of the utility block or prefabricated metal structures.

Building a garage on your property

So the long-awaited time has come to start building a garage. Like any other job, building a car shelter will be a lot of trouble, but also a lot of fun, and it also saves a lot. After viewing the photo of the construction of the garage, you will get a lot of positive emotions. And the result will not disappoint you!

garage project

The beginning of any construction is a project. You don't necessarily have to use a roll of blueprints, but if you intend to create something really worthwhile, the object should first be drawn and described.

First of all, at the design stage, you need to determine the following:

1. Tasks that the garage will solve. Decide whether the shelter will serve exclusively as a parking space for the car, or if it will also produce repair work? Do you need a viewing hole? Write down all your wishes on paper.
2. Shelter height dimensions. These parameters are determined based on the characteristics and dimensions of the site on which the garage will be built, and on the tasks that it will solve.

If it is needed only for parking a car, an area of ​​\u200b\u200b3 by 6 meters is enough (if your car is not a Hummer). In such a room, you can freely place a car up to 2 meters wide and 4.5 meters long. At the same time, 50 centimeters will remain along the garage on both sides for opening doors and convenient exit from the car, and in front of it there is a parking space.

The height of the garage must be made sufficient for the passage of the car - 1.5 - 1.9 meters. But it is better to tie this indicator to the size of the gate, having a height of 2-2.5 meters. If you are not the owner prestigious foreign car, which has a length of up to 5 meters and a width of up to 1.9 meters, the size of the garage should be increased.

If it is planned to place an additional cellar and a workbench, the dimensions, of course, must be increased even more. However, in a large garage it is convenient to repair and maintain a car, and on racks and shelves you can place tools, utility utensils and seasonal tires. When arranging a shelter for two cars, in addition to the parking space between vehicles, it is necessary to provide an additional distance of at least 70 centimeters.

Location selection

To choose a place for the construction of a garage, it is recommended to develop a master plan for the land plot and place all the buildings of the estate on it, taking into account fire and sanitary and hygienic standards. It is also necessary to take into account the location of the garage relative to the boundaries of the land and the house, as well as the convenience of access to the garage.

The garage can be placed on the building line and in the depth of the site, if the doors, when opened, do not interfere with the movement of cars along the roadway; at a distance of 1 meter from the neighboring land, if water does not fall on it, flowing down from the roof of the garage.
The entrance to the garage, according to accepted sanitary standards, should be located at least 10 meters from the windows of neighboring houses.

Fire safety standards also dictate their requirements: it is recommended to place a detached garage no closer than 9 meters from the house and no closer than 15 meters from buildings that are finished with polymeric materials.

At this stage, it is necessary to transfer the sketches on a piece of paper to the real area. This stage requires a dozen pegs that are forty centimeters long, a heavy hammer, a five-meter tape measure, as much as possible, and a nylon cord. To bind the garage to the terrain, you must determine the point at which one corner of the garage will be located, and the position of the shelter for the car relative to this point in space.

Construction materials

When building a garage with your own hands, you can use various building materials:

• brick is the most familiar and very common material, the building in this case is quite reliable;
• reinforced concrete allows you to build a reliable garage, which will be collapsible, you can dismantle such a structure at any time;
• slag concrete costs less than brick, but is more labor-intensive in the process of work, and shelter safety is lower;
• metal allows you to quickly build a structure, and the cost of building a garage is not exorbitant, since it does not require large expenses for laying the foundation;
• tree is not the best suitable material for the construction of a garage, not reliable and in need of constant care.

Earthworks and foundation

When building a garage excavation are performed manually. A trench for a monolithic foundation must be dug at least 40 centimeters wide. Depending on the level of soil freezing in a particular region, a depth of 0.6 - 1.2 meters is selected. As a rule, a meter depth is enough.

Make the bottom of the trench not loose, that is, the soil should be selected to a layer with a natural density. Work the walls with a shovel so that they are vertical and even. There are a huge number of options for foundations for a garage. But we will focus on the rubble concrete foundation, which is quite simple and relatively inexpensive.

The concrete foundation is made simply: it is customary to lay a rubble stone in rows in a trench, and pour each row with cement mortar until the trench is filled to the very top. To fill the rubble, take a solution not lower than marking 150. To do this, mix Portland cement grade 400 with sand, based on the calculation of 2.5 buckets of sand per bucket of cement. Pour water until the required mobility of the solution is reached, near the bucket.

Garage basement

Along the perimeter of the trench for the plinth, formwork should be installed from boards about 10 centimeters wide. It is customary to set the formwork according to the level. If you have an uneven platform, then take the highest place as a basis, add ten centimeters to the level of the base and mark the horizon from it.

On the plinth, it is necessary to arrange horizontal waterproofing from several layers of roofing material, which are laid dry. Waterproofing is needed so that the walls of the garage do not absorb capillary moisture from the ground. Before construction of the garage and walls begins, garage doors must be installed, which will be fixed in the masonry as the wall is erected.

Garage Doors

Gates must be reliable and easy to use. They are hinged, sectional, roller shutter and lift-and-turn. Gates can be opened automatically and mechanically. The first option is preferable, since the product is opened using the control panel without leaving the car. However, it is worth considering a manual mode in case of a power outage.

Make the frame of the gate leaves from wooden bars that have a width of 90-100 and a thickness of 50 millimeters. Paint the outer side of the frame and nail 6 mm plywood onto the wet paint. Turn the workpiece over and fill the empty cavity between the bars with insulation directly onto fresh paint to prevent the insulation from sliding down.

After that, paint over the frame on the other side and nail plywood or hardboard, also pre-painted over the entire surface. The result will be a warm sandwich made of plywood, insulation and hardboard. Garage door wings must be hung with three metal hinges in such a way that the leaf enters the quarter that is selected in door block, tight.

To increase the strength of the connection with the wall, embedded parts are welded to the gate frame - round rods with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters. When laying, the rods must be sealed in the seams. The gate is installed vertically, practicing a plumb or level check. Check the vertical on the gate frame, left and right. You can move the gate with a small crowbar, or with flat stones that are placed under the corners.

Walls in the garage

After installing the garage door, it is necessary to start laying the walls, lay the cinder block (foam concrete or brick) with a wall width of 200 millimeters with a “brick” - ordinary chain masonry: the next row should overlap the seams of the previous row. Laying should start from the corners. Next, it is worth pulling a thin cord between them, and lay the rest of the blocks along this cord. Then we raise the corners, and the process repeats.

It is recommended to check the verticality of the walls with a plumb line, paying special attention to the verticality of the corners. Level check the horizontal rows. Take care of an appropriate slope to ensure normal rainwater runoff. For this purpose, perform the end walls of the garage at different heights by making the upper edge of the side wall with a slope.

The slope must be equipped based on the differences in height: for every meter 5 centimeters. For example, with a garage length of 6 meters, the total difference will reach 30 centimeters. To make the slope even, pull the cord along which you will navigate.

In addition, it is recommended to take care of scaffolding, which is necessary when laying walls higher than 1.5 meters. You can make scaffolding from anything - old door panels, boards with the condition that they can easily withstand the weight of one person, several buckets of mortar and 5 - 6 building blocks. The total weight is about 170 - 200 kilograms.

The mortar for laying garage walls is mixed at the rate of one bucket of cement marked 400 per 4.5 buckets of sand. Do not make the solution too liquid, it should reach the consistency of thick sour cream. To make the solution more plastic and not delaminate, add about half a bucket of ordinary clay or lime dough to it.

Make the height of the wall from the side of the gate about 2.5 meters. The height of the wall into which the slope goes should be about 2 meters. The height of the walls, if necessary, can be fearlessly increased to 3, even up to 4 meters, but the masonry in this situation must be reinforced with a metal mesh every 4-5 rows.

Cover and roof

Overlapping for the garage can be made on metal beams with plank filing. To overlap, you need to stock up on steel beams 100 - 120 mm high. Such beams can provide a garage floor, which has a width of up to 6 meters. Choose a length of beams 20 - 25 centimeters longer than the width of the garage so that they go into the wall at least 10 centimeters.

Beams need to be laid across the garage, parallel to the shortest wall in increments of 80 centimeters. Beams are recommended to be laid and sealed in a long wall, and then repeat its slope. After that, proceed to sewing the overlap. Lay 40 mm thick boards on the lower shelves of the beams, trying to move them as tightly as possible.

Place roofing material on top of the boards, rolling a roll across the garage so that the edges are bent 10 centimeters up. Pour slag, expanded clay or a semi-rigid minplate over the roofing material. The roof in front and behind should protrude at least 20 centimeters beyond the garage wall in order to protect the wall from water. Peaks are made from a board, running under the top shelf of the beam.

On top of the slag, make a screed of cement mortar, which is prepared in the same proportion as for masonry. The thickness of the screed is ideally at least 20 mm, and it is better if it reaches 30 - 35 millimeters. The screed must be performed, avoiding strong bumps and depressions. In this form, the roof of the garage will absorb moisture, leaking even with light rain.

To avoid such situations, it is worth covering the roof with waterproof material using rolled roofing materials varieties of ruberoid. Ruberoid and all modifications (bikrost, aquaizol and rubemast) are usually glued onto the roof in two ways: using bituminous mastic or by fusing.

It is recommended to treat the cement screed with a bituminous primer or primer before sticking the roofing material, otherwise it will not stick. You can prepare the primer yourself: to do this, you need to mix molten bitumen and diesel fuel, or bitumen and used engine oil in a ratio of 1 to 3. It should be remembered that bitumen is poured into oil (diesel fuel), and not vice versa.

It is necessary to stick a ruberoid carpet together. Start gluing from the low part of the roof, moving up the slope, rolls across the adhesive, with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters. At the end and at the beginning of the roof, it is customary to overlap the roofing material on the end board of the visor. Before installation, the beams should be painted 2 times, the boards should be treated with an antiseptic and painted on both sides.

Floors and pavement

In the garage, it is customary to arrange the floor at the level of the plinth edge. Since a car will drive into the shelter for the car, the highest requirements are placed on the strength of the floor. The material for the floor is concrete. The thickness of the layer reaches 8-10 centimeters. The earthen base before laying the concrete mass is carefully cleaned and leveled along the horizon.

If backfilling is needed, it can be done with fine gravel, or with the help of sand, followed by tamping. For the floor, ready-made concrete M200 is ordered. Or they prepare the solution on their own based on the following proportion: 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of fine gravel and 2 buckets of sand. Take no more than a bucket of water.

To make the floor even, you need to pull the laces, or set the level of beacons from profile pipe. When constructing a floor in a garage, it is customary to lay concrete in portions without interruption. If you decide to expose beacons, then lay the concrete between the beacons in stripes. Concrete after laying must be carefully rubbed, and if desired, ironed.

Outside the garage, you need to arrange a blind area 50 centimeters wide. They perform the work similarly to the floor, first arranging a crushed stone base and laying concrete on top. The thickness of the concrete on the blind area should be about 4-5 centimeters. The blind area should be with a slight slope directed from the garage, since its purpose is to drain melt and rainwater from the walls.

Finishing and heating

The garage does not require special finishing, but it will not be superfluous to rub the walls with cement mortar, or even plaster and whitewash with lime in one layer. Insulation of a shelter for a car is an open question, however, no insulation will save you in the winter cold without primitive heating equipment. Insulation can be carried out using foam boards 5 centimeters thick, or semi-rigid mineral wool boards.

Attached and built-in garages are usually warm because they are heated by the home boiler. Garage heating is water and electric. It is also possible to install oil convectors and infrared heaters. But in any case, the temperature in winter should be at least 5-6 degrees Celsius.

Remember that in a room that is too warm, cars do not “live” for a long time. High temperatures contribute to the formation of condensate on the body, lead to corrosion of car parts and reduce its service life.

Garage ventilation

Arrange in the garage a good supply and exhaust ventilation, through which the smell of hot oils and gasoline, as well as exhaust gases, will be removed from the room, which helps to dry the car and creates normal air exchange, which for one car is 180 m3 / h.

Effective ventilation implies 6-10-fold air exchange. To ensure it, it is customary to use three ventilation modes: combined, mechanical and natural. The cheapest and easiest way is natural air exchange. Install air grilles at the bottom of the gate. Air will be removed from the garage through a deflector - a special exhaust device that is located at the end of the exhaust duct.

The air duct in the garage is located near the wall opposite the gate. A similar design works in this way: heavy fresh air enters the garage by gravity through the supply grilles, displacing the less dense exhaust air. To ensure effective ventilation, the cross section of the supply system must be 2 times larger than the exhaust cross section. But the natural regime also has its drawbacks, because it depends on various external factors: the difference between internal and external temperatures, as well as wind pressure.

If an exhaust fan is installed in the garage, a combined ventilation system is obtained. It is mounted in an air duct that passes through the roof of the garage, or in a wall. The disadvantages of such a system are the constant operation of the exhaust fan, the lack of filtration and the heating of the air that comes from the street.

Mechanical ventilation does not have the listed flaws, because in this case, special devices of the exhaust and supply system are responsible for the removal and inflow of air. Forced ventilation consists of filter, fan and heater. Air enters the system through ventilation duct, heated, filtered and enters the room through the air distributor. The exhaust air is removed through an exhaust fan.

viewing hole

A viewing hole is considered a necessary part of the garage, since modern cars sometimes require Maintenance and repair. For some car owners, the inspection pit device is most likely a tribute to fashion and habit, rather than a necessity.
But if you have decided to be a pit, then start by marking it on the surface of the garage area. viewing hole it is recommended to shift 10-20 cm to the right relative to the central axis in order to increase the free space on the left side for the movement of the driver and the workbench device.

The length of the hole should be equal to the length of the car minus the width of the bumper. This is done so that you do not accidentally get your foot into an open hole. To repair the rear and front of the car, the car must be moved forward or backward.

It is better not to equip the entrance to the pit with a ladder because of the risk of injury, in addition, there will always be observed in the pit high humidity, and therefore wooden staircase rots very quickly. Instead of a ladder, it is recommended to make several steps with a width of 30-35 centimeters and a step of 30-40 centimeters. The steps must be poured with concrete with the walls of the pit.

The surface of the steps is good to use during repairs for tools, they can be leaned on to create additional force when lifting heavy machine parts. It is advisable to frame the upper borders with a corner to protect against destruction. The corners must be reinforced - weld metal bolts or rods on the side for rigid fastening in the concrete of the inspection pit box.

It is mandatory to install a restrictive bar along the edges of the contour of the pit, while on the outside you need to make an oval, which pushes the car away from the pit - when you hit it, the wheel will slide off the bar to the outside.

Then you can use different options for closing the pit with lids. The framing contour of the pit and the cover are made of shields, which consist of three or four boards, which are 40 millimeters thick. To facilitate movement along the pit of shields, balls are inserted at the bottom of the boards, which differ in diameter of 15-20 millimeters.

Entrance to the garage

The road to the garage must be included in the project documentation. The type of coverage, on the one hand, must correspond to the style of the shelter for the car, on the other hand, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarity of the soil, the level of groundwater and the geology of the site. A lightweight version of masonry involves bonding bricks or tiles with mortar, some solutions involve filling sand, gravel and arranging drainage.

Finally, the access road must be linked into a single harmonious system with garden paths, taking into account the needs of the owners of the house, because such "transport highways" divide the backyard territory into functional zones. It is also recommended to ensure the stylistic compatibility of various coatings.

The driveway to the garage must have a hard and even surface, which can be made of concrete slabs, figured paving elements or asphalt. Such a solid base will protect the track from splitting under the weight of the machine. When building an access road to a garage, it is imperative to follow the technology for building a garage and a road, because without it, with the onset of spring, the path may swell, and the tiles may move apart.

Thus, you already know how to build a shelter for a car with your own hands. To consolidate the material, watch a video about building a garage, after which you can stock up necessary materials and tools and get to work immediately!

Brick is expensive, but recently it has not been in demand, and not only because of the high cost. Yes, the brick looks beautiful, has excellent performance but construction takes too long. Another thing - alternative materials:

Here are the three main building materials used economical builders. Let's explore the details technologies building a garage cheaply and reliably.

from wood

Perhaps, wood- this is the best option, because here, like in no other option, external aesthetics, environmental friendliness, economy and ease of construction are successfully combined. But working with wood has its own nuances.

Please note that there are two ways to build: from round logs and frame technology . The first is more reliable, the second is cheaper. Choose the most suitable option for you.

Technology

How to build a garage cheaply with your own hands from wood? Preparatory stage consists in choosing the location of the future structure and its model. Garages are free standing or attached to the building. The types of gate opening are also multivariate. All of these points must be in advance.

After drawing up a plan and layout, the construction site is leveled, cleaned, and rammed. The site must be perfectly flat so that after that there are no kinks and distortions.

The site is ready, it's time to start the most important part of our construction - pouring the foundation. Along the perimeter of the future development, a trench is dug, on which formwork is installed. Definitely a must do pillow from several layers of sand and gravel, which is carefully compacted.

The base is reinforced with metal rods and poured with concrete. Now you need to let the foundation stand at least three weeks. When the foundation is ready, we proceed to the lower strapping, which is carried out from the board 50x100 mm.

ATTENTION: Be aware of the wood's tendency to absorb moisture and rot. Therefore, pre-treat the building boards antiseptic.

For corner posts and gate leaves, it is best to take beam, while other frame elements are made of boards 50x100 mm. When performing the lower strapping, maintain an interval of no more than 120 cm.

Also, if you want your garage to be as durable, strong, solid and last as long as possible, install braces at the corners. This will give the structure more stability.

The hardest part of the job is foundation pouring and frame erection. For the frame, stronger, thicker boards are needed, while for the arrangement you can already use a 25x100 mm board, even a simple lining will do here. The board is then sheathed with any finishing material, after which it is necessary to carry out hydro- and vapor barriers by laying several layers of polyethylene or polypropylene film.

As you can see, the garage itself is cheap wood not that hard to build.

Garage photo wooden:

cinder block

The second most popular building material for a garage is cinder block. To date, cinder blocks are of several types:

• from blast-furnace slag, which is famous for its excellent performance and durability;
• shell rock;
• brick fight.

To improve performance, some manufacturers add more perlite, polystyrene and other materials.

The cinder block is good for everyone, but there is one in it flaw: like a tree, he absorbs moisture, which is rapidly destroyed. With dry soil, this quality of the material will not be problematic, and with proper construction it will last up to fifty years, but in places where ground water, it is better to choose another material, because, if the tree can still be varnished, carry out such manipulations with a cinder block it is forbidden.

ATTENTION: You need to know that cinder blocks are divided into types not only by composition, but also by configuration into hollow ones, which are used for walls, and solid ones, intended for the foundation. Ignoring this feature can lead to the rapid destruction of the entire structure.

Technology

In the construction of a garage cinder block, we also carry out preparatory work, clearing and leveling the site, developing a plan for the future structure.

A flood foundation is ideal for a tree, but cinder blocks do not need such a powerful support, it will do here. The strip foundation is made as follows: the top layer of soil is removed and a trench is dug about 45-50 cm deep and 40-45 cm wide. Then a pillow is made of sand and broken brick, which is then poured with cement.

You can also do it differently: the trench is covered with sand, and then filled with water. The combination of water and sand gives the construction strength and makes it resistant to time and changes in temperature and humidity. After that, reinforcement is laid on the bottom and the entire structure is concreted.

In a month, you can start building walls. The third way to build a strip foundation even easier: rubble stone is poured into the trench instead of sand and the entire structure is poured with cement raster, not lower than 150 marks.

After the foundation has been erected, the basement is equipped with heat and vapor barrier materials. The most versatile option for hydro, heat and vapor barrier is a simple ruberoid.

• walling;
• floor screed;
• roofing;
• hanging gate.

cinder block masonry identical with bricklaying, only here this work is carried out several times faster. Laying can be carried out in the stone floor (spoon method) or in one stone (poke method).

Masonry in 2 and 1.5 stones is also practiced. You choose the option that suits you, remembering that the thickness of the walls directly affects the durability of the garage and its ability to withstand sudden changes in temperature. A one-stone garage will freeze in winter, even if several heaters are installed in it, while one and a half and two stones will be warm and cozy.

When building walls, you should initially lay out the corners, and only then, stretching the building cords between them, start laying blocks using the brick method, that is, blocking the seam of the previous row.

When constructing the floor, remember that the screed must be at least 10 cm. Concrete is good for screed M200, which is poured in several layers, and then, after drying, rubbed.
The final stage - electrification and interior decoration.

Garage photo from cinder blocks:

Decking

How easy is it to build a garage? For this, a universal material is suitable. corrugated board. It is perfect for fences, for sheds, it also makes good garages. But here the most important condition is the competent choice of corrugated board: only cheaper is suitable for building a garage brand PS or WITH.

Decking is marked with a letter and a number. Letter "WITH" stands for "purpose for walls", number - sheet stiffness. The higher the number, the stronger the sheet. S-20- the best option for construction.

Sometimes sellers, due to their illiteracy or when there is no twenty in stock, advise ten or eight for construction, but! Never fall for this sales trick! A garage made of such a sheet, although it will cost much less, will not last long, besides, it will be icy in winter, and it will be impossible to warm it up. And the walls will shake from the wind. You need it? We think not, therefore, we stop at the standard twenty.

Ideal deck thickness half a millimeter.

Technology

How to build a cheap garage with your own hands from corrugated board? We will need:

• reinforcement and concrete for the foundation;
• elements for the frame: corner, bars, metal rods;
• metal elements for gates;
• self-tapping screws.

Arm yourself next tool:

1. screwdriver;
2. welding machine;
3. Bulgarian;
4. metal scissors;
5. jigsaw.

Garage photo from corrugated board:

Let's get to work. First of all, we fill. Having cut off the soil by half a meter, the resulting trench is covered with sand and poured with water. Under frame racks wells are being made, which will simultaneously become foundation pillars.

This work will help to make the foundation stronger and more resistant to ground movement. Wells are driven to a depth of at least half a meter.

Further, everything is standard: a wooden formwork is erected, on which the bars of the reinforcing structure are installed. For strength, the rods are attached with wire. Now the main thing is not to forget to install frame structure racks in the wells.

IMPORTANT: Before installing racks, it is necessary to process bitumen underground part of the building.

To prevent the racks from warping, they are carefully aligned with level. The last stage of work is pouring reinforcement with concrete. Use mark 300, for this case, this is an ideal option.

Some builders claim that it is possible to build within two or three days after pouring concrete, but professionals advise to wait for the required three weeks, otherwise the foundation may crack, and then it will no longer be possible to correct the error. Patience and again patience is the key to success.

When the foundation is ready, erect metal carcass. Both welding and a grinder with a jigsaw for cutting are useful here. metal pipes right size, and some more welding skills. With the basic skills of a welder, the frame is cooked in a day or two. The newcomer is transported for a week. In order to make a frame, you need to carefully study the drawing several times and cut the material according to its data.

Using welding, we cook horizontal metal rods to the racks. Welding in progress at three points. If the frame is made of timber, then in addition to everything, special fasteners for wooden beams are welded to the racks. The bars are attached with self-tapping screws.

Now the corrugated board is attached self-tapping screws. You can adjust the sheets to size using a jigsaw. This work is best done team out of three or four people, it is almost impossible to cope with it alone.

When the frame is completed, the installation phase of the gate begins. Here you also need to show patience and maximum attention in order to avoid mistakes. The frame of the gate is made of metal corners and sheathed with a profiled sheet. This job can be done in a day or two.

As a rule, it is performed in a single-sided version. The roof frame is made of crossbeams (wooden or metal), on which a crate from a lining is attached. It is important to take into account the climatic features of your region.

In the southern regions, a lightweight construction of the crate can be used. In the north, where the winter period with blizzards and snow drifts is long enough, it is better to make a stronger, more solid structure that can withstand the load of snow.

We have described the main stages of construction technology. Now it's your turn to choose what cheaper build a garage with your own hands for your swallow. And we only have to wish you good luck and a peaceful sky over your head!

Useful video

How to lay the cinder block during construction budget garage, watch the video: