Wooden flooring for a bath with your own hands. How to make a floor in a bath: device, varieties, installation technology. Laying the floor covering

The floor in the bathhouse differs from living quarters in that, in addition to strength, it requires the construction of a sewer outlet. If you build it correctly, it will not rot, will not absorb moisture, but will ensure its constant drainage and dryness in the room at a time when it is not vaping.

Before the construction of the floor in the bath, the owner must decide on the requirements that he makes to him. Usually the choice has to be made between a concrete structure and wooden planks:

a concrete base is laid long and expensive. It is guaranteed to last more than 50 years, and with proper updating and correct operation, there is no need to replace it;
wood flooring is simple and cheap to build. It looks great, but it needs to be changed regularly, about once every 5-10 years.

If wood is chosen as the material for the floor, you should decide on the type of construction. There is leaking and non-leaking. The first one is easier and looks more interesting. The boards laid in the bath do not need to be nailed to the logs. They are installed at a distance of at least 3 mm from each other. When you need them to dry quickly, you can simply collect them and take them outside to dry. It is not necessary to build boards with a gap in the dressing room. In the rest of the rooms, a gap of about 2 mm is left from the walls around the perimeter, a conditional frame around the floor is obtained, indicated by a small indent.

Advantages and disadvantages of a leaking floor

Pros.

The structure is being built very quickly.
Leak-proof floor is the leader among other types in terms of cheapness.
A drainage pit is made for the sewer underground. No other systems need to be installed.
Waterproofing and thermal insulation are not laid.

Minuses.

It is intended for temporary use; in winter, you cannot take a steam bath (in cold climates).
To be able to operate a bath with a leaking floor constantly, it is necessary to build it in a warm climate.
Choosing poorly hewn planks or placing them unevenly will make the floor unstable.
Fragility.

Construction of a standard floor for a bath

In the steam room, the floor should rise slightly compared to the ground level. You can make it only 8-10 cm higher, and the desired effect will already be achieved - maintaining a high temperature in the room is ensured. In the washroom, the floor is made below the finishing level. This improvement will help prevent excess water from entering the rest of the bath.

The most common floor construction in a bath (layers from top to bottom).

Finish coating.
Wood or concrete (final row).
Small airspace.
Lining (small layer).
Insulating layers (hydro and thermal insulation is mandatory, sometimes sound insulation is added separately if there are industries, clubs, other establishments that are a source of noise next to the bath).
Lathing.
Insulating layers (in cold winters to protect the floor structure from cold or moisture).
Rough floor.
Wooden beams for lathing.
Waterproofing (laid on the ground).

Larch is considered the best material for the construction of an aesthetic and durable floor. If it is impossible to purchase it, it is allowed to use the rest of the common types of wood: pine (one of the cheapest), birch (unusual color), fir or alder. Sometimes wood species are combined. The finishing coating is made from more expensive boards, and the cheapest species, for example, pine, are installed below.

Preparation of the topcoat (carried out in advance)

Before laying, the boards must be dried. If you cancel this stage, there is a high probability of deformation of the floor if the natural moisture from the trees leaves quickly. They can decrease in volume, bend.

Massive boards are more susceptible to deformations. It takes longer to dry them, and the risk of deformation is greater. The situation is saved by the possibility of laying thin beams. They can withstand less load, but this disadvantage is compensated by the laying of transverse logs (additional layer). The tendency to deformation of a board with a thickness of 2.5 cm is practically insignificant, so it is advisable to choose approximately the same (or slightly larger) boards for lag. The optimum thickness is up to 4 cm.

Composition and design features of a wooden floor

To correctly and quickly make the elevation necessary in the steam room, use additional bars for lining. The optimal cross-section is about 7 × 10 cm. With their help, the composition of the base is strengthened, because the bars carry a significant part of the load.

How to install a classic wooden floor.

The base is pre-covered with several layers of roofing material.
Massive bars are laid out along the perimeter of the foundation. They pass through a certain distance, occupying the entire future floor. Each center beam is supported by two opposite webs. It is additionally supported by specially installed two massive pillars.
Lags are installed on the uneven bars. They are systematically trimmed, an artificial slope is created towards the sewer. It is desirable that the total slope difference is at least 2 cm. Before installing the lag, cranial bars are nailed, together they form a rough floor.
The moisture-proof membrane is attached to the logs, while the free ends remain 20-30 cm in order to further attach them to the waterproofing layer of the walls.
A pre-cut to size layer of insulation is placed in the lumen of the subfloor boards. It is advisable to combine protection from cold and moisture in one coating. Now there is a large selection of such materials. Mineral wool is preferred.
The finishing floor is laid from grooved boards, it should be done as accurately as possible.

Video - Construction of a bath. Arrangement of a wooden floor

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden floor in the bath

Required clearances

The ventilation gap between the vapor barrier membrane and the floor is at least 2-3 cm. This layer has additional outlets that must be connected to the vapor barrier of the wall. This is necessary to connect free air under and above the membrane, to ensure free air circulation. The warm air flow, when circulating under the floor, will displace the cooled and damp air, which will ensure the dryness of the floors for the entire duration of the bath's operation.

The underlays are made of such a size that the gap from them to the lag is more than 1 cm. If the frame shrinks slightly, then this distance compensates for the pressure on the floor and protects the structure from deformation.

Video - Sex in the bath. Arrangement

Fixing elements

The quality and reliability of the floor depends not only on the selected materials, but primarily on compliance with the standards of their fastening. Possible ways connections of parts.

Concrete floor

To fill the floor with concrete, you need to carry out a number of sequential measures.

Formwork is installed on the prepared (covered with primary waterproofing, for example, sand) base. Wood planks fastened together with anchor bolts, if necessary, secured with reinforcing posts with a cross section of 2-4 cm.
The concrete solution is harvested in the ratio of cement, sand and gravel. The components are connected in a 1: 3: 5 ratio. Sometimes a solution is prepared without gravel, but it is considered more durable classic recipe... It is necessary to add as much water as is required for the correct consistency of a homogeneous but liquid mixture. The concrete is poured in a uniform layer, the optimum thickness is 5 cm and more. This is the primary covering on which the rigid framework is installed.
Reinforcement is evenly spaced inside the formwork. The rods are connected to each other with a wire with a thickness of 2-5 mm or welded at the joining points. First, vertical pegs with the greatest thickness are driven into the ground, and then connected with one or two rows of vertical long reinforcing rods. The frame can be located at a distance from the formwork around the perimeter, but it should not exceed 5 cm.
The rest of the concrete solution is poured onto the reinforcement to the top. To make it more homogeneous, it is necessary to tamp it. You can purchase a vibrator separately and work it on all areas of the floor. If this is not possible, holes are made in the wet layer of concrete with an iron or wooden bar through which the air formed when pouring the mixture comes out.
So that the space under the floor is not filled with moisture, from the inner backfill to wooden base thanks to the large beams, a gap of about 15 cm is created.
To make movement on the floor inaudible, you need to put fiberglass pads under it. They are located on the waterproofing layer. Sold in rolls, produced in the form of a thick tape.
Wooden materials are treated with an antiseptic. It is advisable to use such chemical composition, with which you can get rid of all microorganisms and prevent damage to the tree.
All boards are pre-dried or purchased already dried from a trusted company.
When installing ventilation, it is necessary to organize its competent removal. From the underground, it is led out along the wall to the attic, for this a separate pipe is being built. If the foundation is monolithic, then you can make holes connecting the ventilation gaps with the air outside.

Recommendations for the construction of a floor in a bath should be applied to your own structure, sometimes adjusting the instructions. It is advisable to leave the basic standards according to which the floor should be constructed, as they are due to the natural properties of the materials and the specific state of the air in the bath.

Video - Errors in the construction of floors in the bath

How to make the correct floor in the bath? It is quite an urgent question if you decide to build the indicated room on personal plot... In this article we will tell you about several options. flooring for a bath.

Such knowledge will be very useful in the case of independent execution of all installation manipulations.

Choosing a material

Advice!
It is worth noting that the floor in the bath almost never warms up to a temperature exceeding thirty degrees.
Due to the specified characteristic, this element of the room can be made of any building material that is suitable for this role.
However, the coating itself is categorically not recommended to be made of synthetic materials, since when heated they can emit various toxins into the atmosphere.

The most important point in the construction of the floor, it is necessary to ensure the unimpeded outflow of water from the bathhouse.

Tree

Let's start a conversation about installation with how to properly make a floor in a bath, using wood for this. The most important thing here is to choose the most suitable type of building material. Experts advise conifers, as they are not susceptible to the harmful effects of moisture.

The rules for laying the floor are as follows:

Brick posts are installed on the ground, the height of which should be thirty centimeters, at least. The sides of the rectangular section of these elements should be equal to a quarter of a meter.
On top of the mentioned posts are mounted wooden logs that serve as a support for the flooring.
Edged boards are laid on the crossbars, the thickness of which can vary in the range from two and a half to three and a half centimeters. The design is shown in detail in the photo:

The steam room can be equipped with a leaking or non-leaking floor. The first ensures the outflow of water directly through the available slots. The second is equipped with special channels that direct the liquid to the sewer.

The leaking floor is quite convenient in that the floorboards are laid on top of the log, without fixing. This makes it easy to remove them when they need to dry, or when the subfloor needs to be cleaned.

As for the non-leaking floor, here the boards are fixed thoroughly, which implies their dismantling only in case of expiration of the service life.

When installing such a floor, a prerequisite is careful processing of all components. special means... Besides, .

The boards are knocked down quite tightly. Along with this, a certain slope is made to direct the water in. At the end of the drain, a reservoir is installed to receive the liquid.

The photo shows both versions of the wood bath floor. In the photo of a non-leaking floor, you can clearly see the drain hole - an indispensable element of this design.

Clay and concrete

The advantage of a clay floor is its simplicity. However, when exposed to water, clay turns into mud..

At a distance of half a meter from the foundation, it is necessary to make a recess. The height of its walls should be equal to five tens of centimeters.
The bottom of this depression is covered with a bedding consisting of gravel or sand.
A concrete screed is made on the constructed bedding.

Advice!
The best option is to pour the screed over the crushed stone litter, on which a mesh of reinforcement was previously laid

As a covering, in this case, you can use a tile (photo). Or you can leave bare concrete.

Thermal insulation

As mentioned above, a non-leaking wooden floor must be sufficiently insulated with good quality. This is due, first of all, to the fact that the specified element warms up poorly in comparison with other surfaces, as well as the air itself in the steam room. Of course, this does not mean that you will freeze, however, some discomfort upon contact with this surface will be very noticeable.

It is possible to insulate a wooden floor only with building materials that are not able to absorb water, and are also not subject to freezing.

Thermal insulation material (it can be polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or other similar building material) is placed between the transverse logs, see photo:

It lends itself to insulation. In this case, thermal insulation is laid between two layers of concrete. Glass wool, polystyrene and some other building materials can be used as insulation.

Draining

When building a floor in a bathhouse with your own hands, it is important to know that it is necessary to drain the drains at a sufficient distance from the steam room. The value of the indicated value should not be less than three meters.

At a distance of fifty centimeters from the foundation of the room, a hole is being dug, one and a half meters deep, no less.
Then it is necessary to dig a trench leading from the previously mentioned hole to the outside.
At the end of this trench, it is required to build a special well in which the spent water will accumulate. Its volume should not be less than one and a half cubic meters.

The bottom of all the indicated recesses must be coated with clay. The thickness of the clay layer should be ten centimeters. This layer should be well leveled and smoothed out. The work must be done in such a way that the water from the trench can flow freely into the well without the help of any technical means. Or you can use plastic pipes as in the photo:

Inside the paired room, the trench and the pit must be filled up to half with gravel, and sand must be poured over it.
Outside, both the trench and the well are half filled with rubble, and then, previously extracted, with earth, which must be carefully compacted.

Above is an example of the simplest drainage system. But there are also more complex options.

Conclusion

Remember that any floor should have a slight slope in order to ensure the movement of water towards the drain.

The price of a bath floor depends on the materials and the way of doing the work. If you do everything yourself, then you can save a lot.

The video in this article will give you a clearer idea of how to properly fill the floor in the bath, so that it is of high quality in all respects.

The arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given Special attention... The level of comfort during use and the functionality of the bath itself depends on how competently its design will be thought out and implemented.

Materials for arranging floors in the steam room - what to use?

The floor base in the bath performs several important functions at once. It not only ensures the safety of a person's movement while taking water procedures, but also is part of the water removal system. A properly constructed floor in the bath does not wear out ahead of time, does not rot due to high humidity, effectively retains heat in the room. In private steam rooms, the bases of interest to us are most often made of wood and concrete. Brick coatings are used much less often. They are expensive and quite difficult to arrange with your own hands.

If you want to build a capital bath room made of stone or brick with a rest room, washing room, dressing room and use it all year round, experts advise you to opt for a concrete base. It must be equipped with a well-thought-out water drainage system and effective waterproofing. But for small banks, operated exclusively in the summer, simpler wooden floors are suitable. They are built much faster and easier, are environmentally friendly, and have a very presentable appearance.

Wood bases have been used for a very long time. They create special comfort in the steam room, saturate the room with pleasant natural aromas, make each bath procedure a small holiday for the true Russian soul. True, there are many disadvantages of wooden floors. The durability of such structures is poor. No matter how hard you try to protect wood from the harmful effects of water, it will quickly lose its initial performance characteristics. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a while you will have to remodel the wooden floors in the steam room.

Concrete structures are much preferable in terms of durability. They are not afraid of water and steam, temperature drops.

Concrete products withstand even the most difficult operating conditions. On average, such bases are used for 40–45 years without additional repairs. Immediately, we note the obvious disadvantages of concrete coatings. They are very cold (for this reason, a suitable finishing material, for example, tiles, is laid on top of them), laborious to install with your own hands, require a serious investment of time and financial resources.

Concrete base - we build for centuries!

The floor for a concrete bath is, in fact, an ordinary screed. It is made from a solution containing sand, cement and some special fillers (crushed stone, natural marble chips, gravel and others). We advise you not to bother mixing the required ingredients to obtain a concrete composition, but immediately purchase the ready-made mixture at the nearest building store. Factory-made sand-cement compositions in dry form are completely ready for use. They just need to be diluted plain water in the recommended volume, mix thoroughly with a perforator with a nozzle, and then use as directed.

If the screed will serve as a finishing floor covering, or a simple flooring of boards will be mounted on it, there is no need to add any special components to the purchased mixture. For cases where on top concrete pavement it is planned to lay tiles, it is advisable to add a little anhydrite with gypsum to the cement-sand composition. It is even easier to buy a self-leveling compound created specifically for such cases.

The concrete base for the bath can be mounted on logs or directly on the ground. The first stage of work is the arrangement of an elementary system for removing water. It consists of an intermediate tank (this role is usually played by a small hole 0.4x0.4x0.3 m, dug in the ground) and two pipes. The walls and bottom of the pit should be concreted and a pipe product with a section of 20 cm should be brought to it. Its other end is taken out into an autonomous septic tank on the site or into a gutter. We put another pipe from the pit into the bathhouse. It is advisable to equip this part of the system with a valve that prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into the steam room.

Next, we prepare the platform for the screed. We remove the upper layer of soil, pour sand into the resulting pit, ram it, pour brick or gravel on top. We should have a layer of about 0.25 m. Add 10 cm of crushed stone on top. Once again we ram the whole cake and fill it with a sand-cement mixture (about 5-6 cm thick). An important nuance! The concrete layer must have a slight slope towards the pit-reservoir.

When the solution hardens, lay mineral wool or polystyrene on it (you can pour a layer of expanded clay, perlite). These materials play the role of an effective insulation. Be sure to put waterproofing under the foam and cotton wool (it is most reasonable to use roofing material). We cover the thermal insulation with the same material. Then we mount metal mesh(wire). It makes it possible to perform high-quality reinforcement.

The main screed can now be poured. We serve the solution from the far corner and gradually approach the exit from the steam room. When pouring, the composition is necessarily leveled (you need to work with an assistant). We perform this operation with a trowel. And for tightening the concrete in a circular motion, we use the rule. After 2-3 days, the screed will harden. Planks or tiles can be laid on it. We install the finishing with a two-centimeter slope towards the drain. If you plan to use concrete as a topcoat (you can do that), just carefully level and grind its surface. But remember that such a floor in a private bath will be cold. In winter, it is problematic to use a steam room with it.

Leaking wood floor - acceptable quality with minimal labor

You can make a floor in a bathhouse made of wood using two technologies. The first involves the construction of leaking foundations, the second - non-leaking. Advice. If the execution experience construction works you have a small one, it is better to erect leaking floors. They are made in the form of a flooring made of boards, between which gaps are specially left. Through them, the used water goes into the ground. Thermal insulation of such structures is not carried out, the sewerage system is not being built. Instead of the latter, a simple drainage pit is used. It is being dug under the bathhouse.

You can make a floor in a bath of this type according to the following algorithm:

1. Level the plot of land, fill it with a layer of gravel, which should be well tamped.
2. We prepare wooden logs (cut to the required size, apply an antiseptic composition) and support pillars for them.
3. We mount the processed logs on the supports, maintaining the distance between the individual elements at the level of 0.5 m.
4. Laying the boardwalk. We leave 2–3 mm gaps between the bathhouse wall, the floor and the boards to be installed.

It is not necessary to fix the flooring elements to the joists. The described coating is recommended to be regularly removed and taken out in the sun to dry. If necessary, it is possible to replace rotten boards at any time. The service life of the described floor structure is 4–6 years. Then you have to build a new one. Such leaking floors are best used in the country, where you visit from time to time and rarely use the steam room.

There is another way to arrange simple plank surfaces. It is less difficult to execute. After preparing a plot of land, beams with a cross section of 10x10 to 15x15 cm should be placed around the perimeter of the foundation. Be sure to apply an antiseptic on them! We install logs on the beams, fix them, and mount the flooring from the boards on top.

Both types of leaking floors can be constructed from hardwood and softwood. It is not recommended to stack Oak planks... They become very slippery when wet. It is better to opt for products made from pine, linden or larch. The last option is considered the most optimal. One more nuance. The flooring is made of planed edged boards 4–5 cm thick. Thinner products will not last long in high humidity conditions.

Leak-proof wood floor - environmentally friendly and reliable enough

Now we will try to correctly make a non-leaking base. It will take more time to build such a structure. But the result of the work will also be of higher quality. Leak-proof wooden floors are suitable for year-round steam rooms. The design of such bases requires the arrangement of a rough intermediate coating and the mandatory installation of a heat-insulating layer. Due to this, the service life of such structures reaches 10–12 years.

We build a non-leaking floor in the bath according to the step-by-step guide given below:

1. We make a pit-reservoir, we lay pipes for drains by analogy with the arrangement of drainage for concrete pavements.
2. Preparing the site. We remove the layer of earth, cover the cleaned area with sand and gravel. We ram each layer of material. If desired, fill in a concrete screed (5–6 cm). This part of the operation is optional. If you want to save time and money, skip it.
3. We cover the floor base with a waterproofing layer. In this case, roofing material will be the best protector against moisture.
4. We carry out insulation using polystyrene or expanded clay. Mineral wool is not used for thermal insulation of non-leaking bases.
5. We install the logs with a step of 0.5 m on the pre-assembled beams. For the manufacture of the latter, you need to use 10x20 cm bars. The fastening of these supports, as you remember, is carried out along the perimeter of the foundation.

Then we mount the intermediate base. We fix the rough floor at the bottom of the beams. We cover it with an additional heat-insulating layer (mounted on roofing felt). On top of the insulation, we lay another layer of waterproofing material. The last stage of work is the installation of a finished floor. We install it with a slope, lay the boards close to each other. The finishing coating is attached to the logs with nails or self-tapping screws.

We take boards for non-leaking floors grooved, 3-5 cm thick. We make logs from wooden blocks with dimensions of 5x7 cm. Pay attention! The lower edge of the floor base made of wood must rise 10–20 cm above the level of the base (its upper edge) of the bath. We hope our instructions will help you build a truly durable steam room floor.

The installation of floors in the bath is one of the most critical stages of construction. Bath floors can be wooden or concrete. In this article, we will look at how to make a floor in a bath with our own hands. The article describes in stages the arrangement of a wooden floor in a bath of two types: leaking and non-leaking, as well as the arrangement of a concrete floor.

Wooden floor device

As it was already written in the first part, laying a wooden floor in a bath will require 25 pieces. boards 50 mm thick and 150 mm wide. For laying floorboards, it is necessary to lay logs from a bar of 150x150 mm (200x200 mm) or logs with a diameter of 14-18 mm.

Wooden floors can be of two types - leaking and non-leaking.

Leaking bath floors

Leaking floors- these are floors when water flows into the cracks between the boards and goes into the ground under the bath.

Advantages of leaking floors over non-leaking floors:

the device of such floors is less costly in financial terms;

low labor intensity of work on the device of such floors.

The disadvantage of a leaking floor over a non-leaking floor is that it is a cold floor. It is advisable to install a cold floor in a bath in the southern regions of the CIS.

Leakproof sauna floors

Leakproof floors- this is when water flows down the floor into a specially made hole and is collected in a water collector and flows out of the bath through a drain pipe. Such floors have a so-called "sub-floor" and their construction is now more common than the arrangement of leaking floors.

The advantage of non-leaking floors over leaking floors is that such a floor is warm, since it has a "sub-floor" and a layer of insulation. The disadvantages include the fact that the construction of such floors is more labor-intensive in comparison with the installation of leaking floors - you need to make the floor slope, "sub-floor", drainage, etc.

Preparing the substrate for a wooden floor

The construction of a wooden floor in a bath begins with laying floor logs made of solid pine or larch, on which the boards are attached. It is also better to choose floorboards from the same wood as logs. The floors in the bath must be sloped so that the water flows in a certain direction. To do this, it is necessary to lay the logs not at the same level, but with a drop that forms the angle of inclination of the floor in the bath.

Note: for leaking floors, the floor slope is not necessary.

You need to lay the logs at the smallest distance from one wall of the bath to the other. If the bath, as in our case, has equilateral walls - 4x4 m, then the logs can be laid without taking into account the distance between the walls.

Logs laid in the transverse direction to the water drain in the floor of the bath

The only thing that needs to be done is to determine the direction of the water flow if the floors in the bath are not leaking. It is necessary to lay the logs in the transverse direction relative to the water drain.

In order for the logs to have sufficient rigidity and not to bend under the load exerted on them, supporting chairs must be made in the center of each log. Support chairs can be made of wood, brick or concrete (monolith).

If the supporting chairs are made of brick or wood, then you need to make a support platform for them made of concrete, the thickness of the platform should be at least 20 cm, be sure to reinforce at least a mesh-netting. The platform should protrude from the support at a distance of about 5 cm on each side.

The design of the support platform for the lag

Under the base of the site, you need to dig holes 40 cm deep, tamp the bottom and edges. Fill the bottom of the holes with sand with a layer of 10 cm and tamp it thoroughly, spilling it with water. Lay a layer of about 15 cm on top of large rubble or broken brick and tamp it just as carefully.

Composition and dimensions of the layers of the support platform for the lag

Make a formwork from the edged boards and install it in the pit - the edges of the formwork should protrude at least 5 cm above the ground level, along the edges make waterproofing from roofing material or roofing felts.

After the formwork is installed, you can start preparing the concrete. For cooking concrete mix required - sand, fine gravel or gravel, cement and water. The preparation of the concrete mixture can be done in the following proportions:

1 part cement;

3 pieces of sand;

5 pieces of fine crushed stone or gravel.

When the cement mix is ready, it should have a consistency that will allow the concrete to be tamped down - i.e. the concrete mix must be thick. Having laid the first layer of concrete in the formwork - about 12-14 cm, it must be carefully tamped down and a piece of netting - a chain-link, previously cut to the size of the formwork, should be placed. Lay the second layer of concrete on top, at the level of the edges of the formwork and tamp.

Note: the concrete sites must be left until the concrete is completely dry for one day.

Before arranging a support on the site - wooden or brick, you need to make a layer of waterproofing. To do this, a layer of molten bitumen must be applied to the surface of the site and roofing material must be laid on it. The height of the supports should correspond to the height of those places on which the ends of the genital lags will rest

Waterproofing of support sites

If there is a strip foundation in the bath, then the top of the support and the top of the foundation should be at the same level.

Supports for logs on the same level with the grillage

If the foundation is columnar (as in the described embodiment of building a bath) and the ends of the lag will rest on the bars of the foundation crown, then the top of the supports should be flush with the top of the foundation bar.

When the supports are installed, you can start preparing the so-called underground, or rather the ground surface underground.

Backfilling of the subfloor for water juice in the bath

If the floors in the bath are leaking, and the soil passes water well ( sandy ground), then in this case you need to make a backfill of crushed stone, about 25 cm thick.Water flowing through the cracks in the floor will pass through the crushed stone and be absorbed into the sand. The crushed stone will serve as a kind of filter, and the surface of the soil in the underground will not silt up, the humidity will be moderate, and the underground will dry out well.

If, under the bath, there is a soil that does not absorb water well, then in this case it is necessary to make a tray in the ground for the water to drain into the drainage pit, from which the water will flow outside the bath.

Tray for drainage of water into the catchment pit

To do this, under the leaking floors, you need to make a clay castle with a slope towards the pit for collecting water. The castle can also be made of concrete, but this is not necessary monetary costs, a clay castle is quite enough.

To set up a clay castle, it is necessary to pour a layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick onto the ground surface of the underground baths and compact it tightly, then pour a layer of clay 15 cm thick on top of the crushed stone and level it in such a way that the soil surface has a slope on both sides to the gutter with respect to the horizon line.

Clay castle in the underground bath

For non-leaking floors in the bath, the surface of the underground can be insulated with expanded clay, but you should pay attention that there is a distance of at least 15 cm between the expanded clay layer and the logs, which is necessary for ventilation of the underground.

Near the wall, in the washing section, you need to make a pit and tamp its walls, strengthening them with clay. Lead out a pipe from the pit, through which water will drain from the pit (water intake). The pipe must have an inner diameter of at least 150 mm so that water flows out of the underground as quickly as possible.

Laying lag

Laying logs in the floor for a bath

For a non-leaking floor, laying the logs should start from the walls to the water collection pit. Extreme lags have highest point in relation to other floor logs. In extreme lags, cuttings do not need to be done.

Cutting size in logs

For subsequent lags, you need to make cuts with a slight bevel - about 2-3 mm, the same cut must be made in the lag in the place that is in contact with the support (notch for the width of the support). The slope of the floor will be approximately 10 degrees. The depth of the cut depends on the number of logs - if there are four logs for the entire floor, then the depth of the notches will be deeper than in the logs, the number of which is six.

For leaking floors, the logs can be laid from any wall and without a slope; the logs for leaking floors can be at the same level with respect to each other.

Lags in a leaking floor at the same level relative to each other

At the beginning, the beams for the genital lags need to be cut to the size of the bath, so that on both sides the lags do not reach the walls of about 3-4 cm. This distance is necessary for ventilation between the lags and the walls of the bath.

Structural elements for laying logs

The lags must be laid on the foundation beam and support pillars only through waterproofing - through roofing material, glassine, etc. Also, each lag must be treated with an antiseptic.

Checking the horizontal position of the log using a building level

The horizontal laying of the lag is checked using a building level. If the air bubble is not located in the center, as shown in the figure, then it is necessary to cut the places on the lag that rest on a support or on a foundation beam, it is necessary to trim it until the level shows that the lag is laid exactly relative to the horizon line.

Leveling the lag of the floor for the bath

The evenness of laying the lags relative to each other is also checked by level. To do this, you can put one board on the logs, which has a flat surface, and put a level on it. Checking the evenness of laying the lag is checked at three points near the walls and in the center. If necessary, the logs must be trimmed with shims, or the logs must be trimmed to the desired level.

Distance from the log to the foundation

Attention! Near the foundation, the logs should be located directly along the edges of the foundation at a distance of 10-15 cm from each edge, as shown in the figure.

After the logs are laid, and you start laying the floorboards, it is necessary to fine-tune the stove foundation to the level of the flooring.

Finishing the foundation with bricks

To do this, on a site made in advance, you can lay out the foundation for the stove from refractory or red fired bricks, and you can also make the foundation for the stove concrete (monolithic).

For the construction of a brick foundation, the following materials will be required - directly the brick itself and a cement-sand mixture for laying bricks.

The foundation can be made entirely of bricks. In this case, approximately 104 pieces are required. bricks, but the middle can be laid with broken used bricks. If you display concrete monolithic foundation, you will need to do - formwork, reinforcing the strapping, and this will increase the complexity of the foundation device. So an easier way is to build a brick foundation.

Laying a leaking floor

Planking of leaking floor boards is carried out from unedged boards, which must be trimmed first, especially you need to pay attention to the fact that the end of the boards must have a flat surface.

Installation diagram of the lag relative to the walls

The first step is to cut the boards to the size of the bath, taking into account the fact that there must be a ventilation gap of at least 2 cm between the boards and the walls. You can start laying the floor from any wall parallel to the laying of the boards.

Installation diagram of a lag in a leaking floor

When the boards are cut, it is necessary to lay the first board, stepping back from the wall about 2 cm and nailing down (for example: the board has a thickness of 40 mm, which means the length of the nail is at least 80 mm).

Driving a nail for fixing a lag

Nails are driven into the board along each edge, stepping back about 15 mm from them, it is also necessary to take into account that the nails must be driven in at an angle from the center of the board - the angle of inclination is about 40 degrees. The board is attached to each lag with at least two nails.

Laying lags relative to each other

After the first board is nailed down, the next board is laid, the gap between them should be at least 3 mm; as a template for the gaps, you can use a piece of fiberboard sheet and insert it between the boards.

Note: in the dressing room, the floor can be laid without gaps.

After the floors are laid, the boards need to be covered with two layers of drying oil. Usually the boards are not painted to help the floors dry out better.

Laying a leak-proof floor

Sheet piling for impervious floor

The installation of a leak-proof floor is made of grooved coniferous planks.

It is necessary to lay the boards with a groove inside the bath, since during the fitting of the board, it will be necessary to tap with a mallet on the end on which the groove is made, since the tongue can break off, because it has half the thickness of the board.

Sub-floor for non-leaking bath floor

But before proceeding with the flooring, it is necessary to make a "black" floor. To do this, along the edges of the lag from below, you need to attach bars with a section of 50x50 mm. On these bars between the logs to lay a "black" floor of scraps of boards, you can use unedged boards, boards of the second or third grade, as well as a slab.

Waterproofing of non-leaking floors

When the "black" floor is laid, waterproofing (roofing felt, glassine or waterproofing films) is laid on top.

"Pie" between the logs at the non-leaking floor of the bath

As a heater, you can use expanded clay, which needs to be filled up between the logs. After backfilling expanded clay, you also need to make waterproofing.

Laying scheme for the finished floor of the bath

When the subfloor is finished, the subfloor planks can be laid using tongue-and-groove planks. Boards in the washroom and steam room do not need to be fastened with nails, so that they can be removed for drying. You can fix such a floor like this: from the edges, the boards are fastened using bars with a section of 20x30 mm. The bars are attached to the logs with screws - "wood grouse" and when it is necessary to remove the floor, the bars can be easily removed.

But the device of the so-called removable floor in the bath is not very popular with builders, basically the floor shield is stuffed from tightly fitted boards and the floor will not be removable (see)

Ventilation of the space between the subfloor and the main floor

Simple ventilation scheme

In this case, it is possible to make the simplest ventilation system of the space between the "sub-floor" and the panelboard flooring of the main floor.

There is another technology for installing a wooden floor - multilevel floors. This is when the floors in the bath are not on the same level with respect to the horizon.

Diagram of the device of multilevel floors for a bath

So the floor level in the dressing room is 3 cm higher than the floor level in the washroom, and the floor level in the steam room is 15 cm higher.

This floor serves:

to reduce the volume of the steam room, which will save time for heating the air and reduce fuel consumption for the bath, as well as the floors in the steam room can be insulated with a thicker layer thermal insulation material that will make the floors in the steam room even warmer;

the difference in floor level between the washing compartment and the dressing room serves as waterproofing, dampness not from the washing compartment will pass directly into the underground.

Note: Based on the experience of building baths and considering examples of other builders who are engaged in the construction of baths, I can say the following: the floors can only be raised in the steam room, this gives an effective effect. But the floors in the washing room and in the dressing room can be done on the same level, since the ingress of moisture from the washing room into the dressing room excludes the partition with vapor-waterproofing and the threshold of the doorway. But there is always a choice - and everyone decides for himself how best to make the floor in the bath, I gave only examples of the device, and the choice is yours, dear readers.

Types of pipes for ventilation in the bath

For the device of such ventilation, during flooring, it is necessary to leave holes in the floor in the corners of the bath in the washing compartment during the flooring for the subsequent installation of asbestos-cement, PVC pipes or metal pipes made of galvanized steel. The diameter of the pipes can be varied from 50 to 100 mm.

Note: if the ventilation pipe will run in the twin section, then in this case it is best to use a galvanized iron pipe, since in the pair section the temperature can reach more than 90 degrees and from PVC pipes a specific unpleasant odor may be emitted.

Fasteners for ventilation pipes in the bath

Installation of pipes is carried out after finishing interior walls baths. If pipes are used with a small diameter of up to 50 mm, then they can be hidden under the cladding of the walls of the bath. Ventilation from pipes of a larger diameter is arranged in the corners of the washing compartment and is attached to the walls with clamps (see photo). Usually pipes with a large diameter are installed in baths, in which the so-called bath day takes place not once a week, but three or more times a week. This increases the degree of humidification in the bath, in the underground and requires more functional ventilation, and pipes with a large diameter remove evaporation vapors much more efficiently than pipes with the smallest diameter.

Bath concrete floor device

In the bathhouse, in addition to the wooden floor, you can also make a concrete floor. The advantage of a concrete floor over a wooden floor is the fact that a concrete floor has a longer service life (wood up to 6-10 years, and concrete at least 30 years).

The disadvantages of a concrete floor can be attributed to the fact that the device of such a floor is more laborious in relation to a wooden floor (preparation of concrete mixture, laying and ramming of concrete, floor reinforcement, thermal insulation between concrete layers).

Diagram of the device of a concrete floor for a bath with your own hands

Before installing the concrete floor, you need to make a pit that will serve as a drainage tank, and make a drainage - lay a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm and bring it outside into the made gutter. The walls of the pit can be concreted - the thickness of the walls in this case must be at least 5 cm.The dimensions of the pit for a 4x4 m bath can be 40x40x30 cm.

For placing the concrete, the base must be prepared first. This will require crushed stone or gravel, as well as a brick or natural stone... On the leveled ground, it is necessary to lay a layer of broken brick 15 cm thick, pour a layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick on top and tamp it carefully.

When the base is prepared, the first layer of concrete can be laid - the layer thickness is 5 cm, while the floor should slope towards the pit. The slope of the floor can be controlled using the building level.

When the first layer of concrete has frozen, you can pour a layer of expanded clay 5-8 cm thick and put the second layer of concrete on top, which must be reinforced with at least a netting. After thoroughly compacting the concrete with a specially made simple device, or it is best to use a battery vibrator for compacting concrete, the floor surface must be leveled by applying a cement-sand mortar and smoothed the surface, for example with trim edged boards having smooth ends.

A cement-sand mortar is best prepared with the addition of expanded sand - perlite. This material will not only provide a reliable cement floor covering, but also improve the thermal insulation of the concrete floor. Perlite is a specific material, and it can be difficult for beginners to work with it in terms of preparing a properly mixed solution of the desired consistency.

Two buckets of perlite are taken and carefully poured into a concrete mixer or a special container in which the cement mortar will be prepared. Next, you need to pour a bucket of water with a volume of 10 liters into a container with perlite and carefully knead.

Note: since perlite is expanded sand, after adding water and mixing the volume of the solution will decrease by about 1/3.

If the perlite is well mixed with water, it is necessary to add cement - about half the volume of a 10 liter bucket and resume mixing the components. After 5-8 minutes of mixing, add 5 liters of water and continue mixing.

When the mixture of components has reached a homogeneous mass, it is necessary to add another bucket of perlite and about 2 liters of water (no more!) And continue mixing the cement mortar. The mixing must be continued until an almost free-flowing mixture is obtained. You should pay attention to this - although the mixture has become free-flowing, you cannot add water. It is necessary to let the cement mixture stand for about 10 minutes and continue mixing, during the mixing process, the cement slurry will become plastic, and water will protrude from the mixture, standing out as a separate element - this is excess water.

When the cement mixture has become plastic, you can lay it on the floor and make a cement screed. The hardening period of such a mixture is 4-5 days. From above, the floor in the bath can be tiled, but not tiled, otherwise the floors in the bath will be slippery, which increases the risk of injury at times when washing in a bath with such floors.

Note: the floors in the dressing room can be made of wood.

The floors in the bathhouse are not at all a trifle, as it might initially seem. The methods of their construction differ from the technologies used in residential premises, primarily in that the bath floors are part of the sewer system... If properly laid, the sauna compartments will be dry, despite the constant humidity in these rooms. And this means the absence of mold, mildew and a long service life of this cult establishment for all Russians. There are different methods of flooring in a bath, so you need to choose an acceptable one and adapt it to your construction. Bath floors can be made independently, you just need to have general concepts on the principles of their installation and the differences between the schemes.

Laying floors in the wash compartment

The washing area is perhaps the main room of the bathhouse. Here visitors spend most of their time between short visits to the steam room.

In the washing compartment, water is constantly poured in large volumes, which is why maximum attention should be paid to the arrangement of this bath zone. Especially the laying of floors, since they are the ones most susceptible to moisture and temperature changes, it depends on them whether the washing room will be comfortable and warm or uncomfortable and cold.

There is always a lot of water in the sink, so the floors must be well ventilated and dry quickly

The high humidity of this room puts forward special requirements for the flooring so that they do not collapse in a fairly short time. The floors in the washroom should:

resist thermal drops and do not let in a draft;
be breathable and dry quickly;
to provide normal ventilation, free outflow of water, the permissible temperature of the floor covering.

Taking into account these requirements, the owner of the bath must consider all types of floors and choose the most suitable one. Moreover, you need to decide on the materials for the floor even before pouring the screed.

Floor structures for washing

The surface temperature of a bath floor rarely exceeds 30 ° C, since the floor must be warm, not hot, pleasant for bare feet, and not so that even bath slippers melt. Therefore, you can use any material for its assembly - wood, tiles, clay, concrete and others.

Do not use synthetic surfaces. Chemistry has no place where high temperature and humidity are present.

Any flooring has its pros and cons:

Consider the most common options for bath floors.

Wooden floor in the sink

Deciduous and coniferous lumber is suitable for its arrangement: cedar, spruce, oak, ash, larch, fir. It is better to choose conifers, since the resin they produce significantly increases the life of the floors. In addition, wood has a healing effect on the body, and wet wooden flooring does not slip, and this is additional safety for visitors.

The advantages of wooden floors include:

simplicity and ease of styling;
naturalness, environmental friendliness and durability;
low cost of work.

The disadvantages are the following:

If you are staying at wood floors, then you should be aware that, depending on the drain device, they are of two types: leaking and non-leaking structures.

In turn, leaking floors differ in the installation pattern:

Consider the sequence of work for the installation of leaking floors.

A hole is dug in the middle of the underground.
From its bottom in the direction of the drain ditch, a trench breaks through, in which a sewerage (waste) pipe is laid with an inclination towards the water collector by about 3-4 ° (an approximate difference in height along the entire trench is 5 cm for each running meter).
The sewer pipe for draining water is laid with a slope towards the water intake
The bath foundation is being erected and waterproofed.
After that, along the entire border of the subfloor, the earth is taken out from the walls of the base (or pillars), again with a slope of 10 ° towards the dug hole.
Then the slopes are covered with crushed stone and compacted well (for greater strength, a reinforcing mesh with cells of the order of 80x80 mm can be laid on top of the crushed stone). Everything is poured with dense concrete mortar, which is leveled and smoothed. To reduce the cost of work, instead of concrete, you can use well-mixed clay. It is laid out in a 10-centimeter layer, smoothed and, as it dries, moistened with water and smoothed.
Further, the walls of the foundation, if provided by the technology, are tied with a metal belt and mounted beam structures treated with an antiseptic. The lower crown beams are attached to the harness, and if it is not there, then to the walls of the base with the help of anchors or studs).
The floor logs in the bath do not need to be cut into the casing, then they can be easily replaced if necessary
Floor boards with gaps are laid on the floor beams. The thickness of the boards depends on the distance between the joists, but should not be less than 20 mm.
Simple and reliable floors with slots for water draining are quickly installed and easily replaced with new ones

Often the boards are not attached to the girder vault, but are connected to each other with a bar and the ready-made boards are simply placed on top. In this case, the beam should be among the floor beams. Such shields are very convenient to take out for drying.

The scheme of equipment for non-leaking floors is not much different from the one described above in principle, although it is more complicated to implement. The difference is that the boards are laid without gaps on the rough flooring, for which second grade wood is quite suitable.

For such floors, the logs are deepened into a concrete or clay layer (possibly into the soil itself), waterproofing is laid on top, sealed with a sealant. The space between the lags is filled with insulation. The subfloor is made with a slope towards the barred drain hole, through which water from the washing room enters the sewer network or the drainage pit and is covered with polyethylene, then the wooden flooring is mounted.

In the scheme for arranging non-leaking floors, water flows into a specially equipped hole along an inclined plane

It is impossible to disassemble such floors for drying, therefore, excellent ventilation must be provided so that the wooden floor of a leak-proof structure does not rot ahead of time. This is its disadvantage, but the non-leaking assembly is stronger and more durable and provides for the possibility of a heating device to ensure maximum comfort from water procedures even in severe frosts.

Heating can be arranged under the topcoat of the leak-proof floor

The choice of materials for the drain device

We must say right away that you cannot save on materials for arranging floors in a washing room. You need to choose the best, modern ones that will be effective for years. To create a drainage system, it is necessary to use plastic building materials that do not corrode, are resistant to wetting, are easy to assemble and operate without losing their qualities for more than 50 years.

These can be PVC, HDPE, PVCH (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) pipes, polypropylene or corrugated polyethylene products. Any of them are perfect for the internal drainage device in the bath.

The diameter of the pipes is selected according to the intensity of the use of the bath:

if a steam room, sauna, toilet is provided (ie several drain points), then pipes of Ø 100–110 mm will be required;
without the use of plumbing, only pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are sufficient for draining water.

Calculation of materials and tools

To organize an internal drain in the washing department, you need:

pipes Ø 110 or Ø 50 - the quantity is calculated depending on the length of the drainage network;
adapters from Ø 50 to Ø 110 for connecting pipes of different diameters;
tees 110x110x90 and a 90 ° elbow - 3 pieces each;
vertical pipes for the device of water intakes (Ø 110 or Ø 50);
cement, crushed stone and sand.

Materials are purchased according to the chosen installation method. The same goes for tools. But in any case, you will need:

building level;
Bulgarian;
bayonet shovel.

Concrete floor in the wash compartment

Concrete flooring is the most common because it is cheap and easy to install.

After hardening, you can make the flooring from cork boards or wooden gratings and install a drain.

For safety reasons, it is best not to cover the concrete floor. tiles or lay wooden lattice panels on top.

Other types of floors in the sink

Those who respect old bath traditions equip an earthen floor in the washroom. The process of laying it is extremely simple - the top layer of the earth is cut off by about 15 cm around the entire perimeter of the room and the remaining earth is tamped.

If you really respect the customs of your ancestors, then you need to pull out a pit half a meter deep and fill it with a mixture of fine sand and gravel. If desired, you can lay boards on top.

Previously, the floors in the bathhouse were arranged directly on the ground, after cutting off its top layer and tamping the base

We have already spoken about the clay floor, but despite all the advantages of the clay itself, such a floor has a big drawback - the clay does not dry well, and when it dries, it forms cracks into which water seeps. As a result, a persistent, unpleasant, swampy odor appears in the washroom over time.

In a word, the best choice there will be wood, although it can be combined with other materials.

Video: do-it-yourself correct floors in a washing bath

Floor covering in the washing room

Paul is ready, it's time to think about protecting him. Everyone knows about the antiseptic, you should not neglect it and save on it. Wooden elements are processed even before the start of the main work, otherwise the wooden flooring can be damaged. The antiseptic does not change the texture of wood, does not contain heavy metals and harmful salts, perfectly protects wooden components from biological damage.

It is also recommended to use a good varnish. Before applying it, you need to prepare the surface well. It should be clean, free of greasy spots, sanded to a mirror-like condition and dry. The varnish is applied in several layers, after it has completely dried, the bath must be heated and ventilated.

The varnish must be applied to a previously sanded and well-cleaned surface.

The floors can also be painted. Only paint should be of the highest quality and absolutely harmless when heated.

In addition, there is folk remedies for flooring - the use of waste after the processing of sunflower oil. They are applied with a roller onto a thoroughly cleaned and dried surface. Repeat 2-3 times at intervals of three days. Such a coating is safe, gives the wood a beautiful shade, and besides, it will cost almost free.

If the floor in the bath is concrete, then it must be covered finishing material because it looks unattractive by itself. The concrete floor is covered with a massive floor board, porcelain or ceramic tiles, parquet, cork products.

In principle, any material is suitable, as long as it meets all safety rules. Otherwise, it all depends on the conceived design, on the personal preferences of the owner of the bath and on his financial capabilities.

Laying the floor in the steam room

Although the steam room is the heart of the bath, the floors are surprisingly the least significant segment of the entire bath project. The main thing here is the wall partitions and the ceiling. Remember how primitive everything was with our great-grandfathers. They threw plank blocks or chopped logs on the ground, and this was enough to take a bath with pleasure even in areas with fierce winters. Are your feet cold? They poured hot water and that's it. Nobody complained and my health was excellent.

Therefore, you should not pay too much attention to laying the floors in the steam room. Some advise equipping the steam room with insulation, vapor barrier and rough flooring. Of course, this is very modern, but for a steam room it will be a waste of money.

As practice shows, simple circuit arrangement of floors in the bath is the best

And why drive moisture deep into the wood. It is much better and easier to create conditions for the free passage of water, and then take care of drying and ventilation. And it is much more essential to make the floors in the steam room non-slip in order to avoid injury.

If the steam room is combined with the washing compartment, then there is no constructive distinction, everything is common and the same, the floors in this case are equipped according to the methods described above.

When the steam room is a separate area and there is no need for a branch a large number water, then the floor is laid from an edged board with small bevels (deck board). The slots may be slightly narrower.

The deck board is made from larch and therefore resists moisture well

Much easier with concrete floors- they are done in the same way as in all branches of the bath. A wooden ladder is certainly laid on top, since a bare, uncovered concrete slab is not very pleasant.

The device of the floor in the steam room, as, indeed, in the entire bath, is an excellent indicator: if after laying it in the bath it is cold, then look at the ceiling, most likely, it is there that there are problems with vapor barrier.

What to make a floor in a steam room: choosing the best material

Of course, wood is out of competition:

And what really cannot be used for floors in a steam room is linoleum, chipboard and fiberboard. Wood-based panels are highly flammable, and unnatural materials can release hazardous substances at high temperatures.

Equipment of the concrete floor in the steam room

It is advisable to purchase all the necessary building materials from one manufacturer. This will add strength to the entire structure as a whole. You need to purchase:

edge tape;
sand, cement M200 or 300 and gravel;
a primer, roofing felt and a dry mixture of a self-leveling screed.

Tools for the job

To complete the entire process of equipping the floor in the double room, you will need:

protective equipment for eyes and hands;
bayonet shovel and building level;
a bowl for mixing a solution or a bucket;
concrete mixer and mixer;
rollers (needle and primer);
rules and construction trowel;
gas burner for soldering roofing material.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a concrete floor in a steam room

Preparation of the solution. You will need a concrete mixer, in which the components of the solution are placed - sand, cement grade 200 or 300 and gravel in a ratio of 2: 1: 3. It does not make sense to use other brands of cement (higher), this will only increase the cost of work. Add water and bring to the required consistency.
Sand, gravel, cement and water are used to prepare the solution.
Subfloor adjustment. The soil in the steam room is covered with roofing material cut into sheets, and gas burner seams are soldered. It is needed as a waterproofing agent. A 10-centimeter concrete layer is applied on top of the roofing material with a construction trowel, after which the entire screed is leveled under the level using a rule. When the solution is completely dry, proceed to the next step.
After the end of the pouring, the concrete layer must be leveled with the rule
Finishing alignment. The final leveling of the concrete layer is done literally down to the millimeter. For this, a self-leveling mixture is used. Before laying it, the surface is cleaned of debris and dust, and then primed. The primer is applied with a regular roller.
Self-leveling screed mortar application. Along the entire length of the steam room, the bottom of the wall is pasted over with edge tape. This is done so that the screed does not stick to the wall and break in the future. The dry self-leveling mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package and mixed with a mixer until smooth. Following this, it is evenly poured over the entire surface and leveled with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.
Finishing work. The floor filled with a self-leveling screed is left to dry and only then they begin finishing work.

Video: pouring a screed in a bath with your own hands

Steam room floor covering

Some people believe that no impregnation should be used in the steam room, arguing that the bath should give health, and not emit harmful fumes at high temperatures. It is difficult to disagree with this. But there is another side of the coin - physical wear and tear and decay.

Not only the wood sheathed in the steam room needs protection, but even the concrete floor screed loses its properties over the years. Plus, unprocessed, it accumulates dust that lovers of hot steam breathe.

If this does not bother the owner of the bathhouse and he is ready to change the lining of the steam room (including replacing or repairing the floor) every 5 years, then, of course, no impregnations and oils. Otherwise, the treatment of the steam room must be done and it is advisable to use for this natural wax and oils specially designed for saunas and steam rooms.

Linseed oil emphasizes the structure of the tree, creates a protective film on its surface and does not emit harmful substances when heated

Concrete floor screed can be treated with organic and inorganic impregnations. This will increase the durability of the concrete and prevent excessive accumulation of dust. But you need to apply impregnation in the steam room thoughtfully, carefully studying the instructions and composition.

There are many schemes for arranging floors in the washroom and steam room. They are all accessible and understandable. They can be implemented independently. You can even apply several technologies at the same time, such a combination will give a good drainage and an even surface. But as practice shows, the technology that is simpler is better. Good luck and light steam.