Laying floor tiles on a wooden floor. Can tiles be laid on a wooden floor? "Wet" screed on a wooden floor under the tile

Conditions that guarantee a long service life of the floor: high-quality materials and proper installation. The solution to the problem of how to lay tiles on a wooden floor and its features are related to the properties of wood and the conditions of the room.

Wood is a living material subject to the influence environment and especially moisture. In conditions high humidity fungus, mold can form on it, and numerous wet / dry cycles deform it. For these reasons, there is an opinion that laying tiles on a wood floor in a house is considered undesirable. This is not entirely true, since all of the listed shortcomings are solved by using high-quality facing materials and a properly prepared base. If the wooden floor in the house is recently laid, ideally it is recommended to wait for it to shrink for about a year, although even after that there is an imperceptible deformation.

If you put a tile on a poorly prepared surface or directly without preparation on wood, the integrity of the cladding will be violated, gaps will form between the tiles and over time it will crack or peel off.

The purpose of the work is to correctly create and prepare a rough surface for screeding and future finishing. It should be disassembled, processed and reassembled. Wooden floor - complex structure, it can consist not only of floorboards, parquet boards, but also from the substrate, large load-bearing beams, lags. Before work, check the layers of the floor. If wooden boards or parquet are laid directly on the screed, the work is simplified: it is enough to check the reliability, stability of the coating and putty the gaps.

In the presence of lags, beams, and, as a rule, in these cases, the flooring consists of sheet pile boards, you should disassemble it yourself and check the condition of all elements. The strength of such a floor cannot be determined only by the absence of loosening and creaking. If old elements are found, they should be replaced.

Checking the condition of the wooden base

Is there a foundation creak

A construction with a lag pitch of less than 0.5 m is not suitable for laying tiles: the tree will not withstand the mass of the screed and cladding, the floor will sag, in such cases lags are simply added.

Alignment and processing of elements

The level is used to check the evenness of the floor. If the design has distortions, it is leveled. Logs are lifted with wedges from scraps of lumber. If this is difficult to do, boards are sewn onto the logs, and then the excess is cut off. If the wooden floor without lags has distortions, they must be eliminated. It is removed, a new screed is made, or thin sheets of plywood and similar materials are placed under the floorboards.

Aligning the lags

All wooden elements are treated with special antiseptic agents that prevent decay and the formation of fungus. Use an impregnation specially designed for wet rooms. On sale there are special mastics for these purposes, they are non-toxic, odorless and not destroyed by moisture.

Protecting a wooden base with an antiseptic

Expanded clay and installation of floorboards

After the impregnation has dried, they begin to fill in fine expanded clay. It fills the space between the lags and performs the function of heat and sound insulation. The material is not filled up to the very edges of the lags, 5 cm is left for an air cushion so that air can circulate, removing condensate.

Expanded clay is used as a heater in the construction of floors

Then, the floorboards are laid, this is the future rough base for tiles. In their role, you can use thick waterproof plywood. It makes sense to use old boards. You need to remove varnish and paint from them with chemical removers, a building hair dryer, a polishing machine or a nozzle on a drill with sandpaper.

We process the floorboards

Installing the base under the tile

Flooring and floorboard processing

Some experts recommend laying boards without a gap. This is not necessary: under the influence of moisture and temperature in the bathroom, they can expand, despite the waterproofing. As a result, the wooden floor warps, the tile peels off. The gaps, just in case, should be 3–5 mm wide. Lags are fastened with galvanized screws.

The next step is to putty all the holes, including those left from the previous fasteners. The rough floor is sanded or, if it is uneven, leveled with a grinder. Technological gaps along the perimeter are filled with mounting foam.

subfloor sanding

The rough wooden base is ready, it is treated with a specialized latex impregnation that fills all the cracks, this is also additional insulation from moisture. It is quite elastic, it is not afraid of minimal expansion of wood. Apply two layers of impregnation, and then an additional layer of special waterproof putty. It is easier to work with a floor without lags: it is disassembled, leveled, laid again, treated with impregnation, and a substrate is used for leveling.

Putty holes

Sanding the coating

We process with impregnation

Waterproofing device

It is very important to choose a good waterproofing material. To do this, you can use thick polyethylene, roofing material, but it is better to purchase a special material that will not let moisture through and at the same time prevent condensation. All the technology on which it is carried out is presented here.

damper layer

To avoid deformations, the penetration of moisture into the coating of the bathroom will help a special damper layer. Its qualities are the main feature of laying tiles on wood. The role of the layer is played by a special damper tape, which is sold in hardware stores. It acts as a shock absorber and compensator for possible wood movements.

This shock-absorbing insulating layer is connected to the ceramic tile with a hard side, and its elastic bottom is laid on the tree, thus achieving the maximum effect of compensating for possible shifts. Wood still needs to breathe to prevent the formation of mold and mildew. The pores of the interlayer do not allow large drops of moisture to pass through, but air passes through them, providing the necessary ventilation and the absence of condensate.

Floor screed

It is important to create a solid, rigid base for ceramic tiles with your own hands. For tiles laid on a wood base in the bathroom, an ordinary cement screed is suitable, self-leveling mixtures, building glue, gypsum mixtures are not used in this case. Our experts tell in detail how it is done, so even a beginner will understand.

It is desirable that the screed be light, but even if it is heavy, the floor with a sufficient amount of lag will withstand it.

Suitable cement-based screed

Types of solutions

As a screed, you can use different materials:

Standard cement screed. Its layer should be more than 3 cm thick. Under it, a special metal mesh, on top of which the solution will be poured;
Polymer screed. Such solutions ideally level the surface, moisture resistant, not subject to cracking;
General purpose building adhesive. It is preferable to use it for the bathroom, at its core it has liquid glass. The solution, which is based on liquid glass, can be made by hand, just mix the following ingredients: water, coarse sand, liquid glass (proportions 1:2:2);
Polyurethane adhesive. Such a screed will be plastic and well compensate for all movements of wooden elements, exclude peeling, cracking of tiles.

Cement strainer

Universal glue

Moisture-resistant drywall and cement-bonded particle boards

Let us dwell on the features of these materials. They can also sometimes be used for screeds in bathrooms. Despite the fact that there is a lot of information about using them as a screed or underlay, experts do not recommend them for bathrooms. These materials are designed for rooms in a house with a low level of humidity. It should be noted that in the bathroom, in addition to humidity, there are sudden temperature changes, and this destroys such plates.

Method of dry screed from cement-bonded particle boards

If, nevertheless, it is decided to use them in the bathroom, then they are stacked "in a row", at an angle of 30 degrees towards the laying of the floor boards. There must be gaps between the butt joints, they are puttied special tool for drywall. The edges of the sheets of this material must be processed so as not to let moisture in.

We rub the seams between the tiles

The main nuance in the work of laying tiles on a wood floor is high-quality insulation and a damper layer. If properly installed, tiles will last just as long as cladding on a regular concrete floor.

Video

Ceramic tiles are considered ideal material for walls and floors of rooms exposed to moisture and temperature changes. These are, as a rule, kitchens, bathrooms, baths. True, the very process of laying it is fraught with certain difficulties, due to the need for an appropriate foundation and some experience of such work with a home master. As for the second, skillful hands and a desire to carry out the plan will come to the rescue at all costs. But regarding the foundation - a moot point. One cannot do without proper knowledge, all work must be carried out in accordance with the requirements technological process, non-observance of which is fraught with the fact that as a result the floor covering will turn out to be of poor quality and will not be able to perform the necessary functions. In principle, today, self-repair is an occupation, one might say, even fashionable, so that many home craftsmen have at least rudimentary knowledge in this regard regarding the technologies for carrying out certain works. Nevertheless, sometimes there are situations that baffle the originality of the question. For example: "Can I lay it on a tile?" Agree, this will not come to everyone's mind, because, as a rule, laying ceramics is usually carried out on a concrete base. And not for wood. However, sometimes there are still situations when it is literally vital to lay tiles on a wooden floor - in a bathhouse, for example, or in the kitchen of a private house. What to do in this case? It's just a whim of someone who doesn't understand anything finishing work owner or is this really possible? Let's try to answer this difficult question. So, is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

About the compatibility of ceramics and wood

In principle, here you can get by with just a few words. These two materials are practically incompatible. And it is possible to “make friends” between them only by creating special conditions. The tree cannot stand the instability of the temperature background, constantly changing its dimensions with its changes. It is not difficult to imagine what will happen to ceramics, under which, so to speak, sawn timber lives its own, special life, being in constant motion. The tile, of course, will begin to crack, move away from the base, chips will appear on it under the influence of loads. In turn, a tree tightly “packed” under ceramics will not be able to receive much-needed air, which will begin to rot and deform. In general, it turns out a kind of vicious circle. Can it be broken? How to lay tiles on wood or in the kitchen of the owner of the same private house, who can no longer watch without tears how his wood flooring becomes less and less attractive every day from constant exposure to moisture or temperature changes? Let's just say: it can be done. But you need to do it only if there are really good reasons, because the procedure for preparing a wooden base will take a lot of time, in addition, it will require very substantial expenses, effort and money. Ready to part with both the first and the second? Well, good luck. As they say, nothing is impossible. If you really want to, why not try it. True, you will have to thoroughly study the technology of the process and choose the option that is suitable for your case.

When the procedure is not possible

Our home masters are sometimes quite capricious and stubborn. A person needs ceramic tiles on a wooden floor - and that's it. And the last one was mounted quite recently, the house was almost settled the other day. Here is the option when, unfortunately, you will not be able to please yourself. In any case, such an undertaking will have to be abandoned. Because a new wooden flooring will acclimatize for at least three years, getting used to unusual conditions, and shrink, the end of which you will certainly need to wait. And only then to carry out the plan.

A few words about the base

So, what does someone who sets out to lay tiles on a wooden floor have as an asset as a base? We have already said that the new coating is not subject to such arrangement. So, as a base House master, most likely will have three types floor covering. These are worn out and lost attractiveness boards lying on relatively strong logs, a floor made of plywood or fiberboard, which also causes despondency in its appearance, but still amenable to reincarnation, and a relatively strong plank flooring that is in a normal state, on which tiling is required due to existing circumstances. Regardless of which option is available, the home master will have one task: to create a strong and even base suitable for laying ceramics. The difference will be the form repair work and their volume. Therefore, before laying tiles on a wooden floor - in the bathroom, bath, hallway, in the kitchen, it doesn’t matter - you need to carefully study the existing base and choose suitable way preparation. As a matter of fact, there are two of them. This is dry leveling and wet leveling. But in any case, you need to remember one thing: laying tiles on a wooden floor without a screed and careful preparation of the base will not work. As a matter of fact, difficulties, especially those created with one's own hand, will have to be overcome in any case. And to make it easier for the home craftsman, then we will tell in detail about all the preparation options.

Dry leveling

Its principle is to create an additional draft layer for cladding on an existing base. This can be done by mounting sheets of plywood - necessarily moisture resistant - directly on the existing "native" base, creating an additional floor covering on the logs with a gasket between the old and new insulation floor and using ready-made sets of adjustable floors mounted on top of the existing worn out base. In addition, today there is another material at the disposal of those who want to lay tiles on a wooden floor - GVL-plates. They will not only successfully replace plywood, but also, thanks to their special composition, will contribute to the creation of a normal microclimate for base boards.

Pros and cons of the dry method

This option for tiles is considered the most common. Which is not surprising, since it has a lot of advantages and only one drawback. The first is primarily the speed of work. You can level the floor in this way quite quickly, without interruptions between stages, which most often slow down the repair process. In addition, if the option with lags is chosen, then by laying a heater, it is possible to significantly increase the insulating qualities of the surface. Well, the third plus is the creation of a minimum load on the already not distinguished by special quality characteristics. As for the minuses, as we have already mentioned, there is only one - this leveling method “eats up” the height of the room. Therefore, in rooms with low ceilings, it is sometimes impractical to use it.

wet way

In fact, this is the same screed, the difference of which is that it is made on a wooden surface and with some reservations. The latter include the fact that, firstly, it should be lightweight (no more than three centimeters) due to the not very good condition of the wooden floor and its inability to bear significant loads, and secondly, it is made not over the entire surface, but with gaps along the perimeter. Such a kind of floating option. Thanks to this trick, the ceramic coating will not suffer from the movement of wooden elements, which in any case cannot be calmed down in any way.

Advantages and disadvantages of the screed

Here, in principle, everything is rather conditional. An undoubted advantage of the method can be considered that it will practically not affect the height of the room, and a huge disadvantage is that the procedure itself is quite lengthy, requiring significant breaks between stages. But sometimes someone who is looking for an answer to the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor does not have to choose. If a screed is the only acceptable option, then you will have to put up with temporary losses.

Well, now that we have dealt with the theory, let's go directly to the process itself.

Preparing the old floor

Whatever leveling method the home master prefers, the old plank base in any case requires preparation. Laying tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom, and even in a room less exposed to moisture, without carrying out preliminary work to repair and clean the underlying surface, will not succeed.

First of all, you need to check the integrity of the floorboards and the lag itself. If any elements have become unusable, they must be replaced. Then you need to remove all the paint. If you plan to make an additional floor covering on the logs, then the basic leveling is not required, but if plywood, GVL, chipboard or a wet screed is used, you will have to arm yourself with a grinder and diligently cut off all the humps. Then the old floorboard should be treated with an antiseptic and existing cracks should be puttied if possible. And then be sure to drill the ventilation holes. And only then proceed to alignment.

Leveling process without screed

In principle, there is nothing complicated here. If an additional floor covering is created on the logs, then supports are first installed with a step between them of 30 cm, then insulation is laid, after which everything is sewn up with moisture-resistant plywood. If it is planned to level the prepared plank base simply with plywood or GVL sheets, then they are attached directly to the base surface with self-tapping screws. All resulting seams and cracks around the perimeter must be sealed. Foam is excellent for these purposes. Upon completion of the installation work, the new surface is primed. Experts advise not to save money and purchase Betonokontakt.

Note!

Important point! If the master decided to put the tiles on the wooden floor in the bath with his own hands or in the bathroom, that is, in those rooms that are most exposed to moisture, then before leveling it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer on the plank surface. It can be thick polyethylene, and bituminous paper, and roofing material.

Filling the screed

In this case, regardless of the room in which the work is carried out, a waterproofing layer is required. After that, a reinforcing mesh is applied to it, and along the perimeter of the room, the sides are mounted from a special tape, which in the language of specialists is called damper. Remember, we mentioned that the screed should not be monolithic, but floating? This limiter will create the necessary conditions. After that, you can fill in any suitable mixture for the screed. It is best, of course, to take a leveling composition. After drying (at least two weeks should be taken for this process), the surface is primed. At this point, the question “is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor” is considered closed. Now you can. What, in fact, is the time to proceed after the primer has dried.

Laying tiles

So, on a wooden (see photo of the final result below) floor? Yes, exactly the same as the usual for everyone Now, after competent preparation, there will be no problems. The only nuance that you should pay attention to: it is better to buy tile adhesive not ordinary, but more durable, designed for porcelain stoneware.

Choose the laying scheme that you like the most (traditional, diagonal, brick, etc.) and start the process. If a diagonal is selected, then start from the center. If there is another way, then from the most prominent angle, so that the trimming is not noticeable. The adhesive composition is applied directly to the base, the rows are laid strictly under level control. Try to keep the adhesive layer not too thick, as it creates an additional load on the already insufficiently strong base, which is the wooden floor. After laying, grouting is carried out. You can do this a day after the end of the whole process.

Conclusion

What can be the conclusion? As we found out, it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. The main thing is to competently carry out all the necessary preparatory work and create a reliable and even base for the tile.

Previously, the floors of many residential buildings were made of wood. Such coatings are environmentally friendly, but not always convenient. Therefore, sometimes the owners decide to use wooden base as a frame for ceramic tiles.

Can it be placed on a tree?

Ceramic tile is one of the most durable and high quality flooring materials available. It easily withstands high humidity and temperature extremes. Therefore, it is used in almost any home where you need to create comfortable living conditions.

Sometimes tiles are laid on wooden bases. But it should be understood that these materials are not compatible.

This is due to several technical characteristics.

Wood quickly absorbs moisture, and also gives it away. This leads to constant changes in the dimensions of the structure. The tiled surface must be static, since the fragile material does not tolerate dynamic vibrations. Therefore, cracks and other defects may appear on the floor surface over time. This impact can be minimized by laying an additional layer of GVL, PVC or DSP boards.

wooden structures characterized by minimal resistance to external influences. The material quickly rots under the influence of high humidity, and can also be destroyed by various microorganisms. Therefore, such structures should be covered with protective paints that exclude negative effects. Ceramics are durable, but cracks can also appear on the surface of the tile if the wood coating breaks or sags. Will spoil appearance coverage and significant elevation changes.

The wooden floor is not very durable. Such surfaces are combined only with relatively light varieties of tiles (vinyl and others). If you plan to use porcelain stoneware, it is best to form a concrete screed that can support the weight of this material.

It is technically possible to lay tiles on wooden floors, but this is not always a rational solution. To extend the service life of such a connection, it is important to follow the exact installation technology and the recommendations of experienced professionals.

Process features

The technology of installing tiles on a wooden floor is quite complicated. Here it is important not only to securely fix the material on the base, but also to maintain the durability of the wood frame.

To lay the tiles correctly, you should follow a few simple rules.

The wooden base must have access to oxygen. If the floor is insulated on both sides with tiles, then it will quickly become unusable and begin to rot. Therefore, it is important that the bottom of the wood is ventilated. The wooden frame should be located on the logs, which will provide the necessary floor ventilation.

The load must be distributed evenly. This also applies to the base of the wooden floor. All logs under it should be at a distance of up to 50 cm from each other. This will make it possible to perceive all loads qualitatively, without leading to the appearance of plane curvature. Often this problem is solved with the help of plywood boards, which are evenly distributed over the entire floor area.
Tiles should only be laid on a fixed base. If the structure sags or moves when a person walks, these shortcomings should be eliminated. This approach will eliminate the formation of cracks in the future, as well as extend the life of the entire monolithic system.

To get a solid design, it is important to follow all the advice of experts. Therefore, before laying tiles on a wooden floor, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the technology in detail, as well as choose the right materials for the job.

How to assess the condition of the surface?

The quality of the floor base is one of the factors that determine the lifespan of tiles laid on top of wood. Therefore, almost all experts recommend starting installation work from the inspection of the condition of the wooden floor.

To analyze the state of the existing structure, it should be completely dismantled.

The inspection algorithm can be divided into several successive steps.

Assessment of the condition of the support boards. To do this, they are dismantled and inspected for any damage. If such have been identified, it is advisable to completely change the element to a product made from fresh wood.

Inspection of support lags. Here you should be especially careful, since it is these structures that perceive the entire load. Logs must be strong and well protected from decay.
Insulation replacement. If there is another layer of additional material under the floor that affects the thermal insulation characteristics, it is also important to check it and find out if mold, rodents, etc. have started up inside.

Special attention When inspecting wood floors, two main factors should be considered.

Rotting. If the wood has begun to rot, it should be replaced immediately. You can check the level of damage with an ordinary awl. It should be stuck into the structure of the tree and see if it has become soft. You can also identify rot visually, since spots of fungi appear on the surface in this case. Damaged parts are completely replaced. If this place was joined to another wooden product, the structure should be treated with a special antifungal compound. Although experts advise covering the entire floor with such a solution before laying the tiles.

The presence of bark beetles. These pests start in the very structure of the tree, violating its integrity and reducing strength. Bark beetles form peculiar passages in the boards, which can spread over large areas. Parts damaged by them should be removed, and clean areas should be treated with a special protective compound.

The technology for assessing the condition of the floor involves, in most cases, the complete dismantling of floor coverings with their subsequent installation.

Therefore, if possible, it is better to replace them with a concrete screed that will withstand almost any type of tile.

Adhesive selection

Installation of tiles is carried out using special compositions. However, often on wooden floors form an additional layer of screed, which can be made from special products.

cement mortars. Such funds are the cheapest and most popular. You can cook them yourself from pre-prepared components.
polymer blends. Screeds from such substances are relatively rare, since their cost is quite high. The advantage of such bases is that they are highly plastic, allowing you to level the vibrations of the tree without transferring them to the tile layer.

As for mixtures for ceramics, you can glue it on wooden bases using different products. Many of them also contain cement and additional polymer additives. Specialized mixtures for wood do not exist, since tiles are in most cases mounted on rigid concrete bases.

Before sticking the product to the surface, it is important to clarify the type of composition that is suitable for the available materials. To glue the tiles to the base of gypsum boards, for example, you can use mixtures that are designed to work with gypsum. Therefore, many experts recommend consulting with sellers who can advise best option suitable for solving the problem.

Training

The quality of preparation of a wooden base is the key to a long and reliable service floor covering. Today, experts use several methods for preparing the surface of a wooden floor.

One of the simplest approaches is express technology, which involves the implementation of several sequential steps.

First of all, the wooden floor is checked for strength and leveled in a horizontal plane.
Then over wooden frame lay 2 layers in succession drywall sheets. For these purposes, only moisture-resistant types of material are used. During installation, the joints of the upper and lower layers should not coincide. Therefore, experts recommend stacking them in a checkerboard pattern. A small technological gap must be left between the sheets and the wall. It is desirable to fill the joints with a special sealant, and the entire surface of the sheets is primed with special primers.

The described method of preparation is simple and fast. At the same time, this technology does not require serious financial costs. However, it is important to pay attention to the fact that the installation of drywall sheets should not be carried out in a bathroom or other rooms with a high level of humidity. This is due to the fact that gypsum absorbs moisture very quickly, which subsequently loses its original properties.

An alternative to the first option is the formation of a wet screed. This process also involves several specific actions.

First of all, you should examine the floor for strength. It must withstand high loads. It is desirable that the logs under the boards are located at a distance of no more than 50 cm from each other.
When the frame is prepared, an additional layer of boards is laid on top of it. It will be used as a subfloor. The thickness of such a board can reach 4 cm. It is desirable to leave small gaps between adjacent elements.

Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm are laid on top of the subfloor. The material is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. Please note that the joints of both layers do not have to match. Plywood sheets are recommended to be staggered.
When the base is ready, spread over it waterproofing films. Suitable for this purpose different kinds similar materials presented on the construction market in a wide range. The sheets are laid with a slight overlap to prevent the solution from flowing.

The procedure ends with the formation of a cement layer. In this case, the thickness of the screed should not exceed 3 cm. If you need a thicker layer, then the wooden floor should be further strengthened. The pouring technology assumes a uniform distribution of the mixture around the entire perimeter of the room. It is desirable to install damper tapes near the walls, which level the expansion of the composition when it dries.

Please note that cement screeds are one of the most reliable ways to prepare the floor. Such a surface will not noticeably deform and will create a solid foundation for any floor covering.

There is also a "dry" way to prepare the subfloor. This approach is also carried out according to the established algorithm.

First, the rough foundation is strengthened. It is desirable to align it as much as possible in order to minimize possible differences.

Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are laid on top of the wooden frame. The thickness of this material must be at least 22 mm. It is advisable to use small elements, which must also be staggered. Each element is attached to the tree with the maximum number of self-tapping screws. This is due to the need to create a strong and durable clutch. When laying plywood, you should constantly check the horizontalness. If there are significant differences, they should be leveled.
Before direct installation ceramic tiles the plywood base is sanded and cleaned of dirt.

Almost all technologies involve the removal of the paint layer by laying the top protective layers. This will allow you to prevent it from swelling or peeling off.

Another prerequisite for preparation is the treatment of wood with protective compounds.

They are needed to prevent rotting or the development of harmful insects in the structure of the tree.

Laying technology

The technology of laying ceramic tiles on a wooden base is practically no different from the classical method.

The process itself is quite simple, which allows you to perform all the actions with your own hands, even without much experience.

First you need to mark up the room. This point of the plan cannot be ignored if you want to get a beautiful and even drawing. You can start laying both from the center and from the corner of the room farthest from the doors. It is only necessary to choose the right direction to minimize the amount of waste.

Installation begins with applying the solution to the floor. For its uniform distribution, special notched trowels are used. This method is the most reliable, as the tile lays flat and optimally distributes its weight over the surface. Please note that it is desirable to cover with a solution only the area that one tile will occupy.
The tile is placed on the mixture and aligned with the guide lines. Here they use a laser level, which simplifies the task.

The success of laying and the longevity of the floor covering is 50% determined by the competent preparation of the base. According to clear building regulations, only a perfectly leveled surface that can “hold” the weight of ceramics and its own stable position can become a worthy base for tiles. Due to the fact that the “windy coquette” of wood does not tend to remain constant, laying tiles on a wooden floor has long been considered a pointless procedure. However, there are building schemes, the use of which can reconcile the "playful" nature of the building material with the tough temper of a tiled or clinker finish.

How to reconcile ceramics with a wooden base?

Due to the organic origin of wood, it cannot be attributed to "unshakable" building materials. It shrinks from a lack of moisture, swells from an overabundance. A new wooden floor still settles for one and a half to two years after construction, and even after the expiration of the post-construction shrinkage period, advances still occur. Movement imperceptible to the human eye negatively affects the solidity of the tiled surface. Structural bonds are broken, tiles peel off and crack. As a result, not only all the work goes down the drain, but also a lot of money invested in finishing.

This means that the task of a home-grown finisher is to create a kind of damper layer that dampens the characteristic movement of wooden elements. solid outer part this layer must be turned towards the ceramic coating, and the elastic rear must be substituted for the pushes and blows of the wood. In addition, the wood covered under it needs to breathe, otherwise it will quickly rot, defeated by fungi and mold.

Preparatory stage - preparation of the base

By a wooden floor, we certainly do not mean only plank floorboards that can be seen from the outside. This is a multi-layer structure, consisting of powerful beams laid "in a cross" along them with a log and a substrate located under the boards. Before tiles are laid on a wooden floor, all elements of this complex-composite system must be carefully examined and tested.

Revision of the wooden base

Since the finishing of a new wood floor is recommended to be done exclusively with a tongue-and-groove board, it is not difficult to guess that it is necessary to analyze the floor for revision. After all, the floor with wooden floorboards has already served. The lack of squeaks and wobbliness of the boards is no excuse for laziness. It is possible that the already brewing problem can simply not be felt.

Attention. If the joists have been laid in increments of more than 50 cm, the entire floor will need to be laid or it will not support the weight of the ceramic screed.

Let us assume that the design satisfies us completely. Then we carry out revision, repair and preparation in the following sequence:

removing existing flooring
we check beams and logs, replace damaged or starting to rot elements;
check the horizontal position and carry out the alignment;

Note. If you raise the log in the usual way - by driving a wedge or lining sawn timber under it, it is impossible, the board must be sewn on top, then the excess is cut off, focusing on the level readings.

we generously process all the components of the wooden floor with antiseptic impregnations, best of all with mastics indicated in technical specifications maximum update frequency;
after the antifungal impregnation has dried, we fill all the spaces between the lags with expanded clay of a fine fraction. We fill up the insulation so that between the top line of the lag and the surface of this heat insulator there is 5 cm left for ventilation;
we are preparing the floorboards for re-laying, they will serve as a rough base, since GVL or waterproof plywood, despite the convincing assurances of the manufacturers, will not withstand intense exposure to moisture and repeated temperature fluctuations. Although dry leveling with drywall, chipboard or plywood is quite suitable for arranging a bathroom, a small sauna kitchenette and a rest room;

Attention. Those who wish to tile on a wooden subfloor covered with used boards must remove the paint or varnish from the floorboards. It is easier and cheaper to remove the coating with sandpaper or a sharp scraper. Can be quickly removed with a special chemical “wash” or a hair dryer that softens the protective and decorative coating.

we lay back the boards that have become draft, leaving gaps of 3-5 mm between the floorboards to ensure the probable expansion of the subfloor. We fasten the boards with galvanized self-tapping screws (one in each ordinary log, two in the last ones);
in the presence of small defects, holes from the former fasteners or knots, they must be puttied;
the laid subfloor is leveled with a grinder or corny sanded if leveling is not required;
a centimeter technological gap should remain along the perimeter of the floor. We fill it with silicone mounting foam or glue it with a polymer membrane tape (we bend a 30 mm strip of the membrane in half, fasten one part to the lower edge of the wall, the second to the floor);
the gaps between the boards, between the sheets of plywood, if it was used to level the floor in “dry” rooms, we also fill it with mounting foam or glue the membranes with tapes;
to form a monolithic insulating layer, we process the subfloor with heated drying oil or latex impregnation without the notorious savings.

Note. Instead of mastic, you can use parchment paper, bituminous or waxed roll analogue.

If it was decided to carry out waterproofing with drying oil or impregnation, and not with roll insulation, without waiting for their final drying, the surface to be prepared must be completely covered with a masking net. This will create a continuous insulating layer for laying tiles on a wooden floor, protecting it from moisture and compensating for the effects of wood movement.

Lightweight tie device

Now you need to form a solid rigid base for the ceramic floor cladding. This will be a standard screed, but lighter and more refined, since the wood does not need extra pressure at all.

Substrates for laying porcelain stoneware, clinker or tiles on a wooden floor can be arranged in three ways, these are:

Pouring a standard cement screed, the thickness of which does not exceed 3 cm. First, we lay a metal mesh over the waterproofing and fasten it with screws to the rough base, then we fill in the traditional cement mortar, which can be replaced with a polymer screed.

Instead of the compositions intended for the formation of the screed, we use KS glue with a base of liquid glass. A two-component polyurethane adhesive will do instead. It will also create an elastic layer after polymerization, which prevents cracking of the tile from the deformation vagaries of wood.

Note. A solution with liquid glass for pouring the screed can be made with your own hands. To do this, you need to mix one part of water, two parts of washed and sifted coarse sand and two parts of liquid glass.

In the "dry" rooms of the bathhouse, you can do operational dry leveling CSP boards or moisture resistant drywall. We lay them “in a run-up” at an angle of 30º to the direction of laying the draft boards so that the butt seams do not match. The seams can be additionally glued with a composition designed to work with gypsum boards.

Description of the technology of the tile laying process

Before gluing, we will make a preliminary “fitting”, we will figure out how to lay the tiles on the floor more beautifully. Cutting cannot be avoided, but it is better to place the cut parts in shaded areas and on the periphery of the room. Therefore, we will start the preliminary layout from the central part and from the most illuminated zone. We will immediately determine how many tiles will need to be cut, and prepare them in advance. If you do not need to cut a lot of tiles, stock up on a tile cutter. For numerous trimming of tiles, you will need a grinder.

Further steps for laying ceramic tiles on a properly prepared wooden floor are no different from standard methods, so:

To begin with, it is recommended to find the center by crossing the diagonals. We divide the room into four equal segments, outlining the directions with coated paint cord along the walls or diagonally, depending on the chosen layout scheme.
We prepare the glue in the strictest accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. We do not dilute it more than is required to finish 1 m² of floor.

The solution is applied with a spatula-comb to the floor surface. The size of the teeth of the comb tool depends on the dimensions of the ceramic elements. For a large tile 0.8 mm, for a smaller one.
We lay the tiles on the surface treated with glue, inserting plastic crosses into the butt joints, in extreme cases, matches.
We constantly control the longitudinal and transverse directions, as well as the horizontal position, by applying a bar to several tiles.

Note. It is possible to level the masonry and correct the shortcomings only until the adhesive solution hardens. Longitudinal and transverse directions can be adjusted by slightly shifting. The "sunken" tile must be separated, the missing mortar added and laid again.

All adhesive "bloopers" from the surface of the tile must be removed with a damp cloth, without waiting for the solution to seize. After the laying is completed and the glue has hardened, the seams are moistened and rubbed.

In houses built according to modern building codes, concrete slabs are used as the floor. But the owners of "Khrushchev", "Stalinka" and private houses are not so lucky - in them the floor is most often made of wood. The service life of wood is much less than that of concrete, as well as moisture-proof properties. Laying tiles on wood will help protect it from moisture, prevent mold, and prolong its use. This article will introduce you to the process of finishing the wooden base of the tile with your own hands.

Floor revision

Before you start laying ceramic, experienced craftsmen must audit the wooden floor. You need to carefully inspect the surface and assess the condition:

Clean floor. As a finishing coating, linoleum, laminate or tile is used. Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, this layer is best removed;
waterproofing layer. - a guarantee that rot will not hit him, collapse will not occur. If the hydrobarrier has been used for more than 10-15 years, then it is already quite thin and worn out.
Rough floor. For subfloor installation use cheap material low quality, so it is prone to warping, cracking, which reduces strength;
Lag. Wooden logs are made of high quality wood, they are treated with antiseptic compounds, which allow them to remain strong, undamaged even decades after the commissioning of the structure. If the logs are in good condition, you can not change them before laying the tiles on the floor in the bathroom with your own hands.

Note! Laying tiles on top of an old floor is a bad idea, because at almost the same cost, you will not be able to eliminate creaking, get a smooth surface, and also lose a few centimeters of usable space.

Preparing the floor for work

High-quality laying of tiles on a wooden floor is impossible without careful preparatory work. In the bathroom, the following activities must be carried out:

Consistently remove all damaged layers of the wooden floor: decorative coating, finishing floor, waterproofing, subfloor, logs. Naturally, the complete dismantling of the floor with your own hands, followed by replacement, is associated with large financial costs however, this is the only way to achieve the best result;
Take out construction debris, carry out wet cleaning;
Level the base of the floor using mastic for working with wood;
Treat the overlap with an antiseptic composition of deep penetration, flame retardant, leave to dry. It is better to apply antiseptics in several layers in order to reliably protect the bathroom floor from decay and fire.

The preparatory stage of laying tiles on a wooden base is exactly the feature that distinguishes this process from working with concrete floors. If the condition of the floor allows it to be used as it is, you just need to remove a layer of paint or fix it on plywood 10 mm or more thick to level and prevent squeaking.

Hard floor installation

If the condition of the floor turned out to be satisfactory, then it does not need to be dismantled. Before laying the tile, it is enough to get rid of the decorative coating, once again check the strength of the wooden base, and then follow the plan:

Apply an antiseptic preparation to the entire surface of the bathroom floor, which is necessary to protect the wood from damage as a result of the vital activity of harmful microorganisms;
Cut sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, fix them to the floor using self-tapping screws. Screws can be screwed in with a screwdriver. Place fasteners around the entire perimeter of the bathroom every 10-15 cm;
Glue the edges of the drywall sheets together with special glue, cover the joints with silicone sealant;
Apply the primer with a roller or brush, leave to dry;
After drying, lay the tile on the new base in the usual way.

Try to place the drywall in such a way that there are as few joints as possible, as they are weak spots that water can penetrate.

Installation on strong logs

If, after the revision, it was decided to remove the floor to the lag, you need to use another do-it-yourself installation method:

Rip off the decorative floor covering, finishing floor, which can be used as chipboard, plywood or boards. And then, using a nail puller, remove the finished floor, attached with nails to the logs;
This is followed by the treatment of the boards with a moisture-proof composition, an antiseptic or a combined preparation that combines these functions. Choose deep penetration compounds, apply them in several layers so that they soak 1-3 cm into the wood;
Level the floor, install beacons or bars to control it;
Lay or thermal insulation, experienced finishers recommend using expanded clay of fine fraction, as this option is optimal in terms of price and quality;
Perpendicular to the lags, we fix the floor board with a gap of 3-5 mm, using polyurethane foam seal cracks, joints, corners;
Install a waterproofing layer, which can be used as a film, roll material bituminous or polymeric mastics;
Next, you can lay moisture-resistant drywall, as described in the previous section.

If you decide to pour the screed, on average you will need 15 kg of cement mortar per 1 sq. m, in order to raise the floor level by 1 cm, despite the high consumption, it is better to knead it in parts in order to have time to apply it before drying.

Tile installation

When the wooden base of the floor is ready to lay tiles on it, you can proceed to the actual laying work. The technology of this process is the same as if the bathroom had a concrete floor. Laying tiles on a wooden floor is as follows:

Prepare adhesive for tiles. Hardware stores offer to purchase liquid nails, cement mortar or special glue for these purposes. Experienced finishers do not use for do-it-yourself styling floor tiles;
Soak ceramic tiles in water for 10-15 minutes to improve adsorption between it and the adhesive;
Spread the adhesive evenly on the floor surface using a "comb", the so-called wide notched trowel. Do not work on a large area at once, so that the glue does not dry prematurely, especially if you work slowly. Apply glue in one direction;
Take a tile, apply a thin layer of glue on it, place it on the surface of the base, so that its sides are parallel to the walls. Tap the tile with a rubber mallet and check its correct location using the building level;
Insert a plastic cross, which is used to get even seams between the tiles. And then install the second tile in the same way as the first. So complete the first row, remembering to test yourself with a level.

If you look at the back of the tile, you will see a small arrow indicating the manufacturer's recommended installation direction, make sure that it matches throughout the entire installation area.

A wooden floor is no reason to refuse to install ceramic tiles. We hope you have received enough information to start renovating and create your ideal bathroom.