Laying tiles on a wooden floor: the technology for proper preparation of the base and the specifics of the work. Is it possible to put tiles on a wooden floor and how to do it correctly How to make floors in a house under a tile

This type finishing material for the floor is very popular and there are no serious problems with its installation today.

Fortunately, manufacturers produce a lot of adhesive compositions characterized by high adhesive qualities.

There are, however, difficulties with laying, only in private households.

And the most key ones are the presence of floors from. Here the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor is particularly acute.

And, if possible, how is it done correctly, what is the emphasis on, what nuances should be taken into account, and what should not be done? detailed instructions and warnings to beginners are set out in full below.

Usage floor covering from tiles in private homes is also justified by the fact that under it you can organize a water-heated floor or an electric one.

This will save cash on payment for, as well as in view of a number of advantageous qualities of the material:

High wear resistance
Long service life
fire resistance
Tiles can withstand high loads
Ease of care
Ease of installation

Preliminary work and calculations

After everything became more or less clear with the choice of material, you need to make the correct calculation of the tile. There will be no particular difficulties in this, if you have even the slightest idea about the cost of laying tiles. And it happens:

Straightforward
Diagonal (oblique)
herringbone
Offset

It is worth dwelling a little more specifically on the choice of tiles in the bathroom of a private sector room.

Here preference should be given to non-slip. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bath in principle, you can read more about the laying process a little lower in the following subsections.

Formulas and nuances of calculating the number of tiles

calculate the area of the room
add 7% to the received indicator
divide the result of the calculation by the area of \u200b\u200bone plate
divide the result by the number of tiles in one package
round to whole number

If the “diagonal” laying method is chosen, then approximately 12% is added to the final result (for trimming). With the herringbone layout method - 15%. The simplest and most economical - "rectilinear". If a floor with a pattern is laid out, then the materials for it are completely different and more complex.

Proper preparation of wooden floors

This is the most milestone works, because the quality and the final result as a whole depend on it.

There are several ways to prepare a wooden base for tiling, the choice of one of them directly depends on the condition of the floor at the moment.

A wood floor is a one-piece construction, not just top floorboards.

This includes: logs, beams and substrate.

And they need to be double-checked before laying.

Gender check

Experienced craftsmen recommend using exclusively tongue-and-groove boards with a new floor covering, which implies a complete disassembly of the structure. Even if, at first glance, the floor looks perfect, it does not emit any creak, the floorboards are securely fixed and do not wobble at all.

Note! If the logs are installed at a distance from each other in increments of up to 50 cm, it must be additionally redesigned, in this form it will not be able to withstand the weight of the new flooring.

Algorithm verification work in a wooden base:

Floorboards are removed
Beams and logs are being audited
The level checks the evenness and horizontality of the supporting structures

If there is no possibility of raising the lag, then a wedge or a piece of scrap is hammered under it, fastened, and the excess is simply cut off.

Surface preparation

Wood by nature is an organic material, which means that it cannot be considered stable and reliable. With an increase in humidity, it swells, with its lack - on the contrary, it dries up, decreasing in size.

This raises the question: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a private house, with such technical specifications basics.

Experienced craftsmen give a positive answer, provided that before laying it will be organized to cushion the movement of the floorboards - a damper layer. Where he turns to the base of the tile with a solid surface, and elastic to a wooden one, taking on pushes.

Important point! When constructing such a layer, it is important to remember that the tree must breathe, otherwise it will begin to rot or deteriorate from fungus and mold.

What is important to do when processing the floor:

Treat thoroughly with antiseptics and impregnations
Fill the distance between the lags with expanded clay of fine fraction
Prepare new or old floorboards
Important to consider! When using old floorboards, they should be additionally prepared - completely removed paintwork.
Lay the floorboards on the structure with a gap between them of 5 mm (for expansion)
If there are cracks, knots on the floorboards - they need to be puttied and sanded
Fully sand the coating, after roughing
The gaps between the boards are filled with tape or mounting foam
To organize monolithic insulation, the surface is coated with latex impregnation or heated drying oil

Lightweight tie device

Third stage preparatory work there is a creation of a solid base under the tile. It is rational and correct to organize an ordinary monolithic screed, only lightweight because it cannot withstand a full-fledged, considered base.

In principle, for laying clinker, porcelain stoneware or tiles three are used to organize the screed:

Standard monolithic - thickness no more than 3 cm. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the waterproofing layer, fixed with self-tapping screws and poured with concrete mortar.
Liquid glass or KS glue. You can also use a two-component polyurethane adhesive. They are used to create an elastic coating, to prevent cracking of tile dies from wood movements.

A screed based on liquid glass can be prepared.

To do this, you need to prepare: liquid glass, water and washed coarse sand in proportions, respectively - 2: 1: 2.

If the bath in a private house is dry, then the surface of the floors can be leveled with GVL or DSP boards.

They are laid at an angle of 30 0 C, but so that the joints of the plates and the joints of the subfloor do not match.

You can protect and additionally fasten the seams with a special adhesive for drywall.

Highlights of installing tiles on wooden floors

The entire laying process consists of the following steps: marking, preparing the adhesive, laying and grouting the tile joints. We will not dwell on each separately this time, but we will analyze the most important ones right now:

It will not be superfluous to place the tiles on the floor before “landing” them on the glue. So you can distribute the material as accurately as possible by removing the edged parts, select a more accurate pattern, and so on.
It is very important to adhere to the line of the window opening when laying. The lines must be strictly parallel to it. To make it convenient to adhere to the same width of the seams, you can use crosses in your work.
To increase the adhesion of the base of the tile and the floor, you can use a special cement-based adhesive in your work.
To increase the strength characteristics of the hitch, you can use compounds containing plasticizers or add them yourself to the adhesive at the rate of no more than 15% of the total mass of the adhesive.
It is important to remember that the glue must be used completely within three hours.
The working surface (glue application area) should not be too large - optimally one square meter.
If mistakes are made during laying, they must be corrected within 10 minutes, otherwise it will be impossible - the glue will begin to stick.

Important point! You need to start laying from the farthest corner, move towards the doors, focusing on the center lines.

The only and nevertheless important disadvantage of laying tiles on a wooden floor is its fragility, but, with proper care for 7 years, it is guaranteed to serve as a reliable and durable foundation.

Despite the fragility - this is the most optimal momentary problem of organizing flooring. Moreover, there are no special difficulties and problems in installation. The main thing is to properly prepare the wooden base, and everyone who reads the material will know how to do it.

About laying tiles on wooden bases - on the video:

Ceramic tile has long been one of the most practical and beloved floor coverings, and its current availability and variety are increasingly pushing the boundaries of the use of this environmentally friendly finishing material.
The ideal base for laying tiles on the floor is concrete or at least a cement screed. But what about people who have a wooden floor in their house?

There are two scenarios here:

There is a need to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a house with concrete floors.
The same question needs to be solved by a person living in an old house, where all the floors are wooden (and not only attic, but also between floors).

As for the second option, the answer is unequivocal - you should not do this.

Tiles - the material is quite heavy, and in old houses with wooden floors, load-bearing beams should not be overloaded.

In 75% of cases, they are already in emergency condition by now. Therefore, a tiled floor is allowed here only when the house has passed overhaul and ceilings were replaced with new ones. Nowadays, the load-bearing beams in such houses are often changed to metal ones.
If the floors are concrete and the floor is wooden, then this possibility is allowed.

But here, too, some research will have to be done. Having decided to install a tiled floor on top of a wooden one, you need to be fully aware of how such an undertaking could end in case poor preparation grounds and improper performance of work.

The tile is laid on glue. This creates a sealed surface that does not allow air to pass through. And for wood, good ventilation is critical, which prevents it from getting wet and rotting.
Wood itself is an unstable material that changes its state and size under the influence of environment. Time is not good for her either. Therefore, sooner or later, in conditions of high humidity or temperature fluctuations, the wooden base may acquire mobility, which will cause cracking of the adhesive layer (and possibly tiles) and peeling of the ceramic coating.

Therefore, before deciding on a tiled floor over a wooden one, you will have to examine the condition of the floor and the lag.

Floor condition survey

Start your survey in a simple way- walk along it, gradually covering the entire surface. Your task is to find the places where the boards "play".

This could mean the following:

boards are poorly fixed to the lags;
the boards have already been damaged and are possibly rotting;
the logs sagged due to damage to the wood or the linings just fell out from under them.

Any of these options means that the floor in these places will have to be opened and the necessary repair work. If the floor seems to be durable - it doesn’t creak and doesn’t “breathe”, then you still need to open it in some corner. This is necessary in order to make sure that there are no signs of rot on the boards and logs or places damaged by woodworms.

If you find even the slightest traces of damage, tiles cannot be laid on such a base.

In this situation, it is easier to remove the entire wooden floor altogether and arrange the tiled floor as usual - directly on the concrete, having previously leveled it. If the floor boards are cracked, but not rotten or loose, then they can be used.

Depending on the condition of the floor, surface preparation for tiles must be done in different ways.

There are several options for the development of events:

quick preparation of the base;
device wet screed over a wooden floor;
surface leveling without dampness and dirt.

The quick preparation of a wood floor can only be used when the wood floor is in near perfect condition: it is sound, dry and sufficiently level.

To perform the preparation, you will need moisture-resistant drywall and polyurethane adhesive with high elasticity, which will subsequently level out possible movements wooden base.

The work is carried out as follows:

The floor must be carefully examined for compliance with its horizontal level. If there are differences, then they must be leveled with fiberboard or cardboard of suitable thickness.
Two layers of GKVL are mounted on a flat wooden base in such a way that the joints of the sheets in the upper and lower rows do not coincide. In this case, it is necessary to observe a technological gap of 10 mm between the wall and the floor surface.
joints drywall sheets must be filled with sealant.
Then the surface is primed.
After the primer has dried, you can lay the tiles in the usual way.
After carrying out all the work, the gap between the floor and the wall is sealed with a plinth.

This method is not used in rooms with high humidity- bathrooms and kitchens. Its advantage is the high speed of work and the relative cheapness of the preparation of the base.

The "wet" method is practically no different from pouring a conventional cement-sand screed. But here it is necessary that the wooden base be strong enough, since the screed is heavy. If the floor is mounted from boards with a thickness of less than 40 mm, and even the logs are located far enough from each other (more than 400 mm), then this method will not work.

For the screed device, you can use both a cement-sand mortar laid with a thickness of not more than 30 mm, and self-leveling mixtures based on cement or polymer. Their use allows you to get a screed with a thickness of not more than 10 mm, which is important for small apartments with low ceilings.

Work is carried out as follows:

The condition of the floor is carefully assessed.
If the boards are thick enough and the support logs are located on a small state, then the existing floor can be used. If the logs are rare, then it is necessary to strengthen the floor structure with additional bars installed between the logs.
In such a situation, it is necessary that the subfloor boards are located at a distance of 8-10 mm from each other. This will provide better ventilation. So in any case, the floor will have to be opened.
On the floor with gaps, you need to lay chipboard or plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm. The sheets are attached with "ligation" of the seams at a distance of 2-3 mm from each other.
Next, it is necessary to waterproof the surface by laying a plastic film or other waterproofing materials. Waterproofing should go to the walls to a height of 7-10 cm.
Next, the screed is poured.
After the screed has gained strength, you can lay the tiles.

As you can see, this method requires a lot of labor, but the foundation will be strong and reliable.

The dry foundation device is widely used both by professionals and when working on their own. This will require chipboard or plywood. If the leveling material will be mounted on the surface of the boards, then its thickness must be at least 22 mm. If the floor is bad and the material will be attached to the logs, then its thickness should be at least 30 mm.

Installation is carried out as follows:

Plywood sheets are cut into 4 squares - this will relieve internal stresses in the material.
If plywood is attached to the logs, then the distance between them should be no more than 400 mm. If it is larger, then additional supports should be installed - this will increase the rigidity of the base, and the plywood will not sag.
Plywood is mounted in a checkerboard pattern - with a shift of sheets in adjacent rows. Wood screws are used for fastening.
During the installation of the base, you need to constantly check its horizontal position - this will allow you to lay the tiles without any problems.

In the event that it was not possible to purchase thick enough plywood, you can use thinner material, but you will have to lay it in 2 layers, gluing them together. The seams of these layers should not match. Between the sheets it is necessary to leave a gap 2-3 mm wide. A technological gap of 10-12 mm wide is also observed between the wall and the floor structure. At the end of the work, it is filled with sealant or mounting foam, and then closed with a plinth.

Before tiling the surface, plywood or chipboard must be cleaned of dirt, sanded and removed from all dust.

After that, the base is treated with an antiseptic and waterproofing is arranged. To improve the adhesion of the tile to the base, you can fix a sickle or painting grid on it, and then prime it.

Since the installation of a tiled floor on a wooden base is already a rather controversial method, it is not worth saving to achieve a good result.

Purchase only high-quality materials from trusted suppliers.
Do not use materials such as liquid nails, liquid glass, a mixture of polystyrene foam with nitrocellulose varnish for fixing tiles (such recommendations can be found). At the same time, a qualitative result is not at all guaranteed.
Buy good glue, suitable for working with the base that you have mounted. Not every tile adhesive is suitable for sticking tiles on plywood or chipboard.
Do not prepare a lot of solution at once - it seizes quickly, and you may not have time to work it out. Follow the technology of work - haste can be costly.

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Often in houses of old construction, the floors are made of wood, in living rooms this material is good in many ways, but here's what to do if the floors in the bathroom are made of wood, and plans to lay tiles. And so the logical question arises whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. We immediately answer, yes, it is possible, but only by strictly observing the technology for performing work, which we will discuss in detail in this article.

Difficulties encountered when laying tiles on wood

First, a little about why laying tiles on a wooden floor is undesirable:

The first and, of course, the main reason is the fact that wood, the material is absolutely not static and is subject to all sorts of changes over time and under the influence of the environment, it can be high temperature and excessive humidity in the bathroom. These impacts do not have the best effect on the state of the wooden floor structure and, as a result, the tiles laid on it will eventually collapse.
The second reason is no less important, the fact that the tile, glued to the base of lumber, creates a sealing layer that prevents air from entering the wooden structure. As a result, due to lack of ventilation, the wood will rot and eventually decay.

Methods for preparing the base for tiling

As we made a reservation at the very beginning of our article, there is a solution to the issue. It is only necessary to prepare the surface for tiling properly. Moreover, there are three ways to do it:

Express way to prepare the base.
Performing a new screed over a wooden floor (wet screed).
Dry surface leveling method.

express way

The method is suitable provided that the wooden floor structure is in excellent condition. In this case, the implementation of preparing the foundation will be the least expensive. Scroll necessary materials limited to moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard (GKVL) and polyurethane adhesive, which has an elastic structure that is not disturbed in the event of any movement of the wooden base. And the process itself will look like this:

The condition and level of the floor horizontally is carefully checked. If differences are found, they should be leveled using various materials of suitable thickness (fiberboard and others).
On the finished base, put in two layers, moisture-resistant drywall. At the same time, GKVL sheets must be laid in such a way that the seams between the upper and lower rows do not match.
Along the perimeter of the room, between the arranged structure and the wall, it is required to leave a technological gap.
Joints between drywall sheets are filled with sealant.
The surface thus obtained is primed with a primer.
After the tile is laid, the technological gap is sealed with a sealant and a plinth is installed.

The advantages of this method will be:

resistance to possible movements of the wooden structure of the base;
the time to prepare the base is much less than when using other methods;
the relative cheapness of the work performed.

"Wet" screed

Substrate preparation by this method is not much different from traditional surface preparation by means of a cement-sand screed. The only thing to remember is that the bearing capacity of the wooden floor structure has its limitations, and therefore the screed should be no thicker than three centimeters. It is possible to use various self-leveling mixtures on a polymer or cement basis, while the screed is obtained with a thickness of 1 cm.

The materials used, it is better to purchase reliable and trusted manufacturers in order to be sure of a good end result.

Stages of work:

Assessment of the condition of the existing floor structure.
When the support logs are located more than 50 cm from one another, it is necessary to carry out measures to further strengthen the structure, using wooden blocks for this.
The device "rough" flooring. If the condition of the floorboard is beyond doubt and has a thickness of at least 40 mm, then it can also be used. The board should be mounted to the lags with a gap of 8-10 mm. This is done so that the tree is ventilated during operation and does not rot.
We fix plywood or chipboard sheets with a thickness of 12 mm on the resulting rough flooring. They should be laid in the form brickwork. It is necessary to mount the sheets not close to each other, but with a gap of 2-3 mm.
Waterproofing device. Can be used as specialized hydro insulating materials, and others, such as oiled or waxed paper and plastic wrap. The material is distributed over the entire base area with a transition to adjacent walls to a height of 8-10 cm.
Filling the screed with a home-made cement-sand mortar or a ready-made self-leveling mixture.

Dignity this method will be the reliability and strength of the base not subject to deformation as a result of the movements of the wooden frame.

To disadvantages can be attributed to high labor costs and a decrease in the height of the room due to the formation of an additional screed.

Dry surface preparation

A very popular and widespread method, which has many advantages in comparison with the method in which the screed is performed, which is associated with labor-intensive and, moreover, dirty work. Therefore, many professionals and just home craftsmen prefer this particular method of preparing the base.

The tile in this case is laid on plywood or chipboard. To give rigidity to the structure being constructed, plywood must be used no thinner than 22 mm when mounted on a subfloor, and in the case of mounting directly on logs, the thickness is increased to 30 mm.

Let's highlight some points that you need to pay attention to:

To relieve internal stress, plywood must be cut into four squares.
When laying plywood on logs, the distance between them should not exceed 40 cm. If the gaps are larger, then additional supports are required. Otherwise, the plywood will sag, which will lead to the inevitable destruction of the tiled surface.
Plywood blanks must be placed on the black floor in a checkerboard pattern.
It is necessary to fasten plywood to the base quite often with the help of wood screws.
During installation, you should constantly monitor the horizontalness of the surface, so that later, evenly and without problems, lay the tile.

If you did not have the material of the required thickness available, then in this case, it is possible to use thinner plywood, but at the same time put it in two layers glued together and additionally connected with self-tapping screws.

Do not forget to check that the seams of different layers do not coincide with each other, and also monitor the presence of a gap between individual sheets to ensure the movement of material during thermal expansion.

The width of such a gap should be 2-3 mm. Between the wall and the structure to be installed, along the entire perimeter, the gap should be 10-12 mm. Subsequently, it is sealed with mounting foam or sealant and closed with a plinth.

Before facing the base with ceramics, you need to prepare the plywood thoroughly, clean it from dirt, and then sand it. After that, the plywood is finally cleaned of dust with a damp sponge. Then the base is treated with antiseptic compounds, water-repellent primers and a waterproofing layer is applied. Further on the front side of the base is attached a masking net sickle. This event will significantly improve the adhesion of ceramics to the base material. Next, several layers of primer are applied, which, in addition to adhesive qualities, will give the structure additional moisture protection.

Choosing the Right Adhesive

Not every adhesive mixture is suitable for working on plywood and chipboard. An indispensable condition for such an adhesive should be the inclusion in its composition of elements with high elastic performance. The consistency of such a mixture is quite liquid and therefore there is no need to tap the laid tile with a hammer, it is quite easy to press the fragment to the base with the adhesive mixture applied to it.

There are also non-standard ways of gluing tiles to plywood. Craftsmen use liquid nails for this, a solution of sodium silicate (better known as clerical glue or liquid glass), and even home-made compositions from a mixture of NC varnish with polystyrene foam dissolved in acetone or gasoline. But you must be aware that there will be no guarantee of long-term operation of the resulting coating. As the classics said: "This is not our method ...". Saving in the choice of glue is a big delusion.

Do not prepare too much adhesive mixture, as it sets quickly enough. The recommended volume of ready-made adhesive should ensure the laying of 1 sq.m. tiles.

The process of laying ceramics on a plywood surface is no different from the traditional installation of tiles on a concrete or cement-sand base. Recall that laying tiles on a wooden floor is not a completely standard event, and therefore, in order to obtain a high-quality result, it is necessary to strictly follow the process technology and all recommendations and instructions.

Wood cladding may raise some doubts, however, there is a certain laying technology in this way. Expert advice will take into account all important points in the process of installation and carry out repairs in the room with high quality.

1. Can I tile on the wooden floor in the bathroom?

Most often, this issue worries those who make repairs in private houses and cottages. In such buildings, wood serves as the basis for cladding. Facing in this case is acceptable, but it is worth assessing the condition of the surface and performing certain work on the eve of installation.

Further actions depend on the preliminary inspection of the base:

If the surface is in good condition, in this case, minor processing is carried out and laying can begin;
In the presence of serious flaws, installation is unacceptable. First you need to repair the base by replacing the necessary parts.

Calculate the amount of material required for flooring the room, while taking into account the specific layout option (herringbone, offset, diagonal, rows, etc.).
When repairing with your own hands, it is advisable to choose the simplest installation method, for example, cladding in rows. With a diagonal layout direction, the tile consumption will increase significantly, since it will be necessary to trim.

2. Preparation of the base for facing

When thinking about how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, you should first treat the surface of the base. Check the surface carefully before tiling. The covering can be made of a board, or a laminate.
The floor structure consists of rough level boards, which are fixed on wooden logs.

Old paint can be removed using different methods:
. mechanical way.
The meaning of this method is to use a grinding machine, or electric drill with sandpaper attachment. Grit No. 40 is suitable for primary processing, No. 100 or No. 80 is recommended to complete grinding. The main advantage of mechanical action is the possibility of cleaning large enough areas.

. Thermal way.
For processing, you will need a high-power hair dryer that can warm the air up to + 300 .. + 600 degrees. Keep the device at a distance of 250-500 mm from the floor, after heating, the paint is removed in small parts, using a scraper or a metal spatula during operation.

Experts advise purchasing an industrial hair dryer with a special scraper, so you can combine the process of heating and cleaning wood from paint.

. Method of chemical influence.
Various solvents are suitable for this method. Chemical composition impregnate the paint, applying it with a spatula or brush, depending on the consistency of the substance. The saturation time is 10-30 minutes, after which the paint layer softens and can be easily removed.

Organizing the draft floor, logs are installed on top of the ceilings. Then parchment (waterproofing) is laid, the construction is completed with sheets of chipboard, plasterboard or plywood. Keep track of the evenness of the coating, the logs must be mounted according to the level.

Before laying the material, sheets of chipboard, plywood or GKLV must be treated with drying oil of warm temperature, or with another composition with protective properties. The device can be started immediately after the impregnation has dried.

Preparation of finishing material

Immersion in water will help to force the air out of the tile, 10-20 minutes is enough. If spots appear on the outside of the tile, then a slight wetting of the surface from the inside is sufficient.

3. Do I need a screed?

Before laying, you should check the coating and assess how even it is using a level. If there are significant deviations, it is necessary to make a screed before facing.

What alignment methods are there?

Wet screed . Suitable for those cases when it is necessary to increase the strength characteristics of the floor. At the same time, a gap is organized around the perimeter of the room, taking into account possible deformation. This condition allows the base to move without destroying the mounted coating;

Dry screed . This method the most popular, because it allows you to create not only a flat, but also a reliable floor with a high bearing capacity;
Leveling with GKLV sheets is considered the easiest option. . First of all, carefully examine the condition of the wood floor. Those bars that have rotted should be replaced with new elements. Next, drywall is installed, the sheets are fixed with polyurethane glue, the joints are treated with sealant. You should also impregnate the sheets with a primer mixture.

4. Laying tiles

The main steps for laying tiles on a wooden floor:

On the eve of the floor cladding, you need to determine the location of the parts. The center of a large wall is measured and a line is fixed on the floor, usually it is perpendicular. Similar actions are also carried out for a short wall.
The resulting lines at the point of intersection indicate the center of the room if the room is a rectangular shape. Organize the most interesting option layouts, avoiding cutting tiles along the walls to the maximum.
The floor around the bathroom is advised to be tiled symmetrically.

The composition of the glue is treated with 1 sq.m of the base in one of the corners measured by the center of the room. In order to conveniently distribute the glue, it is better to use a spatula or spatula.
Under the condition of a flat surface (differences in height no more than 3 mm), glue consumption is minimized. In this case, it is enough that the layer is less than 5 mm, because the adhesive composition only serves to adhere the floor and tiles. To level the surface, there is a special adhesive on sale that can eliminate protrusions (up to 30 mm). Also, the consumption of glue depends on the thickness of the tile.
It is not necessary to knead the entire volume of glue at once, because the laying takes a long time. The composition should be gradually diluted, as needed.

You need to create pressure on the tile, then press it to the base. After that, you should continue laying, heading along the marked markings. Cover the entire area of the floor treated with glue.

The layout is directed from the central point to the walls, while certain gaps between the tiles must be observed. After half of the floor surface in the bathroom is filled with tiles, the rest is also tiled. Next, you need to wait for the complete drying of the adhesive composition.
The individual elements must be on the same level. If necessary, you can add a layer of glue.
We supplement the space between the wall and the laid material with undercuts. In order to accurately cut off some details of the finishing material, it is better to use a construction cutter.

Sometimes, when laying flooring, it is necessary to go around an object in the bathroom. In this case, use the exact contour by cutting it with a power saw.

After the glue becomes solid, the tiles are impregnated with a primer.
There are collections floor tiles in which the elements are coated with a primer. This information is specified on the packaging.
A scraper with a rubber tip is able to fill all the gaps between the elements with a solution. Excess solution can be removed with a dampened sponge, on the eve of drying;
If the bathtub is located close to a lined wall, the gap between the wall and the bathtub must be sealed to ensure tightness. A gap of less than 5 mm can be filled with a tiled fugue or moisture-resistant grout.

Porcelain stoneware and tiles are traditionally considered the best flooring for toilets, hallways and baths. Laying tiles on a wooden floor is much more difficult than on a concrete one. This guide covers options for subflooring and tongue and groove tiling.

Self-laying tiles on a wooden floor is dangerous with mistakes. Home master nuances should be taken into account:

The main problems of incompatibility of wood, tile adhesive and tiles are as follows:

the service life of plywood, sheet pile, chipboard and OSB is lower than that of tiles, so the maintainability of the structure is very low;
internal stresses in wood cause warping and other deformations;
hardness of cured tile adhesive and porcelain stoneware/tile facings is by default higher than wood-based boards, sheet piles and edged board;
in ceilings along beams, a wooden black floor is practically the only structural solution;
in the secondary housing stock, wooden floors are made along the logs over the slab, in this case, the structure should be simplified by dismantling the floorboards and logs, pouring the screed for tiling.

Tiles are glued to a wooden floor with special compounds of increased plasticity. However, the developer will not receive 100% guarantees in any case:

wood can dry out or warp, that is, change linear or spatial dimensions;
with a deflection of a less durable base, a thin layer of tile adhesive will crack or split, the tile will fly off.

To ensure the main condition - the rigidity of the base floor is higher than the finish coating, several methods are used for the specified operating conditions:

Cladding technology

The most difficult technique for gluing porcelain stoneware to a tongue and groove, the simplest is a self-leveling floor screed over DSP sheets, which is not difficult to tile. It should be remembered that for the safety of rooms adjacent to the bathroom at the time of possible flooding, the height of the finish coating in them should be at least 2 cm higher.

The floor level in the bathroom should be 20 mm lower than in the hallway.

Conflict wooden structures and ceramic linings on top of them is caused by the following factors:

Therefore, the operational resource of load-bearing beams and wooden decking is sharply reduced.

Tiles on the black floor

If the project includes ceilings along beams, a binder is attached to these supporting structures at the lower level. Insulating materials and insulation are laid on it as necessary, then the subfloor is lined.

The budget option is edged board flooring, but in order to lay tiles on top of the subfloor, it is better to increase the construction budget, make the subfloor from board materials (plywood, OSB, DSP). The number of seams will decrease, the stability of the geometry and the overall resource of the structure will increase.

Due to the high humidity of bathrooms, a dry screed as a base for laying tiles on a wooden floor is not the best option:

expanded clay sand is highly hygroscopic, and it cannot evaporate the accumulated moisture through the waterproof lining (dangerous in case of leakage);
the design has a solid weight, respectively, heavily loads the beams of wooden floors.

However, the practice of operating such structures exists, so you need to know how to properly make it yourself. The technique consists of several operations:

Advice! To correctly lay the flooring, you should consider the placement of plumbing, the geometry of the room and the format of the tiles. Either a solid tile or pieces of more than half of its format should adjoin the walls to ensure a normal bathroom interior.

Gluing on a special mixture

Most of the leading manufacturers of dry mixes have special compositions of increased elasticity for decorating wooden load-bearing structures with tiles. Most popular products:

Lacrysil - packaged in red buckets;
Kreps - Super modification;
Litokol - Litoflex K81 or Superflex K77;
Ceresit - a mixture of SM-17.

It is possible to lay tiles on two-component mixtures based on polyurethane resins Bona R770, Utsin MK-92, Stauf PUK 440 or Kiilto Slim. They have high adhesion, both to the bottom layer of wood and the top - ceramic tiles. However, the life of these compounds is low, they should be diluted little by little in order to have time to develop a solution before setting begins.

Advice! It is not recommended to glue tiles with ordinary tile adhesive on wood, as it is intended exclusively for mineral substrates.

The technology for laying tiles on a black floor is as follows:

sealing the seams of plywood, chipboard, DSP with putty;
applying special tile adhesive to the base;
leveling the pastel with a notched trowel;
laying tiles using SVP systems or standard crosses.

Usually one-piece cladding elements are mounted according to the layout scheme. The next day, cutting and stacking of pieces is performed. Then the seams are rubbed and the plinths attached to the walls are mounted.

The flatness and horizontality of the base is leveled by lags. Small defects are hidden with tile adhesive. Additionally, puttying the surface of the black floor is not necessary. First you need to get rid of the squeaks and replace the beams / logs if necessary.

Unlike most wood-based boards from which the subfloor is made, OSB is coated with wax. Which provides additional costs to the developer - the impregnation will have to be cleaned off with angle grinders, artificially increase the adhesion of the base with tile adhesive and reinforce this layer with a polymer mesh. Therefore, it is worth choosing DSP / chipboard or plywood.

Tiles on grooved board

The technology for decorating a tongue and groove with tiles is very complicated due to the following nuances:

Advice! A layer of self-leveling floor, glue and cladding will dramatically increase the structural loads on the beams hardwood floor. It is highly desirable to make a new calculation for the deflection and bearing capacity of structural elements using the method of rigidly clamped single-span beams.

Revision and strengthening

Before gluing tiles on a wooden floor, it is imperative to revise the supporting structures:

add logs to reduce the distance between them and / or increase the thickness of the floorboards;
eliminate creaking, stretch self-tapping screws or add additional fasteners to an existing structure;
replace, if necessary, vapor barrier and insulation materials;
pull off the tongue-and-groove board to eliminate cracks;
remove the paintwork completely with a grinder;
treat the tongue with an antiseptic or fire and bioprotection (the composition additionally includes a flame retardant that increases fire resistance).

Initially, only the first, every fourth and last row of floorboards are attached to the joists. After tightening with self-tapping screws, all boards are fixed to the lags.

More details about the laying of the grooved board were discussed.

self-leveling floor

For leveling boardwalk wooden house budgetary modifications of a self-leveling floor on a cement basis are used. They have self-leveling properties, which makes it easier to work with these compounds. The main nuances of the technology are:

For walking on a liquid solution, paint shoes with a needle sole are used.

Unlike wet concrete screed, minimum thickness which is 3 cm, self-leveling floors can be leveled "to zero". However, at the same time, separating layers of hydro-, vapor barrier films, sound insulation and insulation are prohibited.

Tile decoration

Regardless of whether the tile is laid on a wooden base or a screed, you should adhere to the standard cladding technology:

Advice! Floor plumbing is best mounted on top of the tiles. This will reduce the amount of trimming, provide an even solid base, and allow you to save the pattern of the seams.

Since the height of the flooring in the bathrooms is lower than in adjacent rooms, the tiles are laid close to door frame. There is no interface with other facing materials, no threshold and plinth are needed.

Thus, tiles in rooms with high humidity can be laid independently, both on a wooden black floor and on grooved board floorboards. In this case, the recommendations of specialists should be followed to ensure maximum operational life.

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