Make a carpentry table with your own hands drawings. How to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands with drawings. Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

A carpentry workbench is usually called a table of a special design with a hard and durable surface that allows various devices and mechanisms to be mounted on it. In addition, the surface of such a table must be adapted to rigidly attach additional stationary equipment to it (a circular saw, for example, or a router small size), used to process common materials such as wood or metal.

Before you do carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this device, as well as some of the design options that are especially popular.

Design requirements

The operating characteristics of the workbench table are:

Its height, adjusted to the user’s height, allows you to work in comfortable conditions without slouching, while maintaining a fairly comfortable position. For people of average height, this value can range from 70 to 90 cm.
Dimensions of the tabletop, chosen based on the possibility of placing everything on it the necessary tool, as well as taking into account the dimensions of the workpieces being processed.
A set of devices mounted on a workbench, determined by the need to perform certain operations and providing for the presence of several stops and a clamp (screw vice).
Adaptation “to the hand” of its owner, who may also be left-handed.

Most suitable for self-made is a variant of a prefabricated workbench, consisting of a frame base with a tabletop installed on it. The length of such a structure usually does not exceed 2 meters (with a tabletop width of about 80–100 cm).

Before starting work, you should decide whether your workbench will be a stationary device, or whether it should be folding (collapsible).

Material selection

The most suitable material for constructing a stationary workbench is considered to be wood, from which the load-bearing base with support frames, as well as the tabletop itself, are made. For the manufacture of frames, standard planed timber with a cross section of 100×70 mm is best suited. The same timber, but with a slightly smaller cross-section (100×50 mm, for example), can be used as auxiliary jumpers that increase the rigidity of the frame base.

The workbench table top can be made from well-planed and tightly fitted boards, at least 5 cm thick. In addition, a ready-made solid sheet (an old solid door, for example) or a piece of laminated chipboard cut to the size of the table with a reliable and durable material can be used for its manufacture. coating.

When choosing a material, preference should be given to hard wood, such as beech, oak or maple.

Assembly of the structure

Making a workbench begins with assembling a frame base, onto which a tabletop of the type you have chosen is subsequently installed. The order of operations performed is as follows:

First of all, the supporting sidewalls are assembled, arranged in the form of two frame structures made of timber with a cross-section of 100×70 mm.
Then these frames are connected at the top by two longitudinal beams, which, together with the upper lintels of the frames, serve as supports for the tabletop. (Note that in order to reliably fasten individual elements together in the design we are describing, it is best to use a classic “tenon-to-groove” connection with mandatory gluing of the joining areas).
The lower parts of the support frames are fastened with longitudinal jumpers made of 100x50 mm timber, which are mounted at a level of 15–20 cm from the floor. (To fasten them, it is best to use a bolted connection recessed from the body of the beam).
In the process of manufacturing frame supports, grooves and tenons are first prepared in the workpieces, after which the entire structure is assembled in one step (after applying glue to the joint areas).

During assembly Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the next working point, which determines the quality of all subsequent installation. When preparing the base of the workbench, at each stage of the work performed, it is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of individual elements correspond to the design data, and also to control the horizontalness of their installation using a building level.

If the tabletop is made from planed boards, the latter must be tightly fitted to one another, so that there are no gaps in which debris usually accumulates. Its dimensions should be slightly larger (1.5–2 cm) than the dimensions support base, formed by frames and longitudinal bars, which guarantees the convenience of placing auxiliary equipment on the table.

When assembling the tabletop, the boards are nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws to transverse bars located on its reverse plane. At the very base, special grooves must be prepared for these bars. The surface of the finished countertop is first carefully sanded and then treated with a protective solution (drying oil is usually used for these purposes). To secure it to the base, special metal corners can be additionally used.

Regarding the installation of working devices and mechanisms (vises, stops, etc.) on the workbench, the following can be said:

It is most convenient to place the working vice at the end of the tabletop, having previously prepared a small recess for fasteners at the installation site. WITH reverse side In the fastening area of the table, it is necessary to provide a plywood pad to protect the surface from damage.
In addition, special stops should be located on the surface of the tabletop to fix the workpiece in work area and making it easier to work with. On a wooden tabletop, it is most convenient to mount rectangular stops (pegs), which are adjusted in height to the workpiece being processed and securely fix it.
Sometimes stops are made by simply extending the tabletop using bars of suitable thickness, fixed at its edge and covered on the reverse side with a limiting strip.

In the event that there is not enough space in the garage or workshop, you can make a folding workbench, consisting of a tabletop that folds against the wall and a special folding frame.

This design is very easy to disassemble and when folded takes up very little space. When making it, you should pay attention to the fact that the width support posts folding workbench did not exceed half the length of the tabletop (so that they do not interfere with each other when folding).

It is also necessary to ensure that the upper cross member on the supports is located below the board with the hinge of the folding tabletop. The material for making a folding workbench table can be any monolithic piece of chipboard.

The supporting frames of the structure are made of 100x40 millimeter bars, the articulation of which is made using pre-prepared metal plates, secured to the posts and lintels using bolts of the appropriate size.

Video

This video shows the process of building a carpentry workbench:

Photo

It is not difficult to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

A good workbench should be in the household of everyone who works with wood or performs carpentry work.

Before we look at the drawings and start assembling the workbench, let’s get acquainted with its structure and manufacturing nuances.

The workbench consists of a workbench board and a base (underbench).

The board has a vice - one or two, in which the master clamps the parts with screws.

You can place the emphasis directly on the working board of the workbench using wedges that are inserted into holes in the board itself, thereby you can adjust the length of the emphasis in accordance with the length of the workpiece.

The bench board is made of dry wood or plywood up to 8 cm thick. The bench board is made of bars with a thickness of 6 cm.

The underbench is supported by 2 racks, which are transversely fastened together by beams with screws/wedges.

This is necessary so that the workbench does not “move” from side to side when planing and sawing.

Workbench structure in detail:

The worktop is made of solid wood/plywood with a thickness of 6 to 8 cm;
Vise on the front of the table top;
Workbench supports are made of solid wood/plywood, connected by cross bars for stabilization;
You can install shelves and a tool box on the supports;
Holes for wedges are drilled in the tabletop to support the workpieces;
You can make a recess on the side or back of the work board to store tools.

The complete structure of the workbench is shown in the photo below.

1 - cover; 2 - subsurface; 3 - tray; 4 - front clamp; 5 - rear clamp; 6 - sockets; 7 - adjustable wedges (combs)

Workbench dimensions

Here we meet the first important nuance, which cannot be ignored when making a workbench with your own hands - its height and length.

The minimum permissible height of the workbench is 130 cm, length is no more than 260 cm.

The height of the workbench is adjusted to the height of the person working on it:

too high will not allow you to push hard, which is important when planing;
a low workbench will force you to constantly hunch over, which will have a bad effect on your back health after just a couple of months;
the height will be normal if you stand straight, have your back straight and can place your hands on the board without bending your elbows.

Manufacturing nuances

Making a workbench has its own nuances, the observance of which guarantees the production of a workbench that will perform its functions flawlessly.

There are a lot of nuances, so we structure them in relation to each stage of the future assembly process:

Initial stage of work. You need to start with a working board. Someone will rush to look for an expensive solid piece of wood, and not just any kind, but according to science - oak, beech or ash. Experts will advise you to take a ready-made wooden countertop, which will cost an order of magnitude less;
Working with the future working surface of the workbench. The surface must be made smooth, therefore any wood prepared for the role of a workbench board must be properly sanded. To varnish or not is up to you;
An important point is that a workbench is a type of table. Your task, in essence, is to make a table on which they cut not sausage, but wood. Therefore, having assembled the workbench, fasten it thoroughly on four legs and then connect them with transverse slats to each other for stability;
Drawers – important element comfort. Take the drawer out of the bedside table and pay attention to how it is installed: there are a pair of guides in the shape of the letter “P” along which the side slats of the drawer slide. Nail two guide rails at a distance from each other equal to the width of the drawer and you’re done;
You need a sawing table if you are going to saw. The table is placed 20-30 cm beyond the board itself. It is a small board that is attached to the desktop with screws (see photo);
The bench board should be straight. Planing, sawing, burning, carving and other manipulations can be carried out strictly on a flat surface and nothing else;
Don't forget the wedges! Wedges are needed to provide emphasis when planing the workpiece. In the table, at a certain step (10-15 cm), you need to drill a row of holes (several rows in a row), into which you will then insert rounded wedges. If possible, use an attachment for drilling square holes - wedges square section They hold the stop better due to their shape than rounded ones, which are prone to deviation of the vector of the applied load - the workpiece will fly out of the stop every now and then.

Practical instructions for creating a workbench

So, it's time to make your own carpentry workbench. Each stage of assembly is accompanied by a description and photo of the process.

At the end of the practical instructions, watch a video summarizing the assembly process step by step. We do not provide drawings of the folding version, since it is much more difficult to manufacture.

Let's look at the assembly step by step.

Step 1 – take measurements

Is your back very tense or not? If everything suits you, measure the distance from your palm to the floor - this will be overall height workbench.

Step 2 - making the legs

Take ready-made bars of the required height, or purchase plywood and cut the sheets into strips of the required width.

Now they need to be glued together: take wood glue or powerful epoxy, put several layers on top of each other, simultaneously gluing them together.

You may need 10 of these strips of plywood for each leg. It is better to glue together 10 sheets of plywood at once and, after drying, cut them into 4 parts.

Step 3 - making the workbench frame

Let's take it already finished board, with a thickness of 4 cm - 4 pieces, which will be the sides of the frame-box and assemble the box, placing the sides on the screws.

In another case, you can also take several sheets of plywood, glue them together and then saw them evenly.

But in order to properly connect them together later, it is better to use a router and lamellas.

Having drilled the necessary holes, we assemble wooden box: we place it on PVA glue using the dowels of the board, clamp it with clamps. After drying, we attach the legs to the box with self-tapping screws.

Step 3 – assembling the tool shelf

From glued plywood (5-6 sheets) we cut out a shelf that is placed in the grooves.

The shelf needs to be secured with confirmations: use a special drill (see photo), which simultaneously chamfers and drills.

The confirmation must be recessed, since this part of the shelf will be used as a guide for the drawer. Now the base of the table is ready.

Step 4 – making a drawer for the countertop

We take a sheet for the bottom and again 4 strips of plywood from several glued layers. We will make grooves on the inner sides of the two side walls for the bottom of the box.

And on the outside of these walls we make grooves by milling so that the box can move freely on the shelves. We select the cutters as follows: the smaller one is the thickness of the bottom, the larger one is the thickness of the side strips + 1-2 mm.

To secure the side wall, we install dowels: drill holes for the dowels at the ends of the walls, mark a point for drilling on the adjacent wall with a pencil and drill to a small depth.

Then we place the dowels in both holes using PVA glue. For the final assembly of the box, it is worth using countersunk screws, which will not interfere with the opening and closing of the box.

Step 5 - making the tabletop itself

Again we cut strips of plywood glued together in several layers for the base of the tabletop. We connect the strips into a box using dowels and PVA.

If you use round dowels, then you need to take at least 4 of them for each connection.

While the tabletop box is drying, we assemble its working board: we take wide sheets of plywood and glue them together in several layers.

You can also pick up a tabletop from an old desk and then simply adjust it to size. We glue the tabletop onto a box reinforced with dowels.

Step 6 - install the vise

As soon as the glue has set and the tabletop is ready, we drill holes in it for wedges for stops and for attaching a vice.

Typically, the vice is placed on 3 holes: two for fastening with bolts, one for the screw that imparts pressure when the handle rotates.

The vice can be taken from an old workbench or purchased ready-made and then simply adjusted to the tabletop by drilling holes of the required pitch.

A bench vise is a metal screw with guides and a wood clamp.

You can take several layers of plywood about 5-7 cm thick and simply drill holes in it and put it on a screw - you will get a stop, then put snap brackets so that the vice does not fall out and you're done.

You can drill holes in the stop according to the size of the dowel large diameter, then attach it with a screw to a square of plywood, having previously drilled a recess in the square.

Make 4 such stops and place them all over the tabletop to fix the workpieces with the stop in a vice.

Our workbench is ready!

(All the above steps are shown separately in the video of the assembly process)

Rules of care and use

There are a number of rules that must be strictly followed in order for the workbench to last as long as possible:

Clean the surface from dust and glue after each use;
Wipe the surface once a month with hot drying oil;
Do not flood the workbench with water or place anything adhesive on it, including parts to be glued.
The chopping workbench is not used under any circumstances;
Place a board or plywood under the workpiece if you want to use a cutting tool.
Do not over-tighten the vice screws;
When the screws are tightened, do not hit the vice;
The workbench is attached to its permanent location using strips with screws or nails;
The bench board should not move. Otherwise, strengthen all its connection points;
Wipe wooden screws with dry soap, paraffin or graphite, and metal screws only with machine oil.

Design features
Types of workbenches
Material of manufacture
Preparatory stage
Tools and materials
Assembly instructions

A carpenter's workbench, or lathe, is a massive, stable, stationary or portable workbench. It processes workpieces of various calibers using manual or electrical equipment. To ensure reliable fixation of the tool, the tabletop is equipped with technological holes.

Design features

Workbenches for home workshops should be easy to use and include shelves and drawers. Design:

supporting frame on four legs;
tabletop made of wood or metal sheet;
a bedside table (one or more) for storing accessories and spare parts.

Bedside tables are installed at the edges work surface, often equipped with shelves and drawers.

Garage or workshop where it will be installed carpenter's table, must have a socket for turning on a stationary rotating directional lamp. The lamp is usually mounted on the wall or directly on the work surface - a workbench board.

Types of workbenches

Tables are:

carpentry,
locksmiths.

In the first case, the structure consists of metal or wooden frame and a wooden tabletop. Not suitable for processing metal workpieces that use machine oil for turning: a wooden workbench absorbs oily liquid. In addition, metal shavings quickly render the lid unusable.

The second option is a universal workbench. Its galvanized iron worktop is suitable for working with wood and metals. The design is more stable, durable, and can withstand increased pressure. It can be used for sharpening, grinding, sawing, and cutting workpieces. The workbench can be monolithic or folding. A drawing of a homemade workbench is shown in the image.

Material of manufacture

To make a homemade carpentry workbench, you will need an edged board or sheet metal. A metal table is more resistant to mechanical stress, but it is difficult to assemble.

To make a workbench from metal, it is necessary to draw up a drawing with the dimensions of individual elements. When assembling a folding or solid workbench from a board, you will need a regular set of tools.

The metal sample is heavy, the wooden one is not very durable. You can combine these two materials in one product: make a desktop from wood, reinforce the tabletop with a thin sheet of iron.

Preparatory stage

First you need to determine the shape and dimensions of the workbench and choose the location for its installation. To ensure that the workplace is always well lit, the light should fall from the left or directly. Often, sockets with extension cords are mounted on the surface of a workbench.

The length of the table top must be sufficient for processing workpieces and placing tools.

The optimal width parameters are 50–60 cm. One edge of the table is usually used for working with a circular saw and other power tools. Therefore, a safety strip with a protrusion of 20–30 cm is fixed there.

Convenience during work depends on the height of the workbench. In order to determine this parameter, you need to stand up straight and bend your elbows. The distance from the floor to the arms bent at the elbows is optimal for a stationary or folding workbench.

Tools and materials

Required:

welding machine;
angle grinder with a saw wheel designed for cutting metal;
drill, screwdriver;
level, roulette
welding machine, set of electrodes;
electric jigsaw for cutting plywood.

Materials:

Metal corner, steel strip 4 mm thick.
Sheet steel 2 mm thick. Guides for drawers and the top covering of the tabletop are made from it.
Wooden board 50 mm thick, 25 cm wide for the working surface.
Plywood 15 mm thick. Designed for drawers, workbench walls.
Fastening elements: metal screws, anchor bolts, screws.
Two-millimeter square pipe.
Paint for painting wooden and metal surfaces.

A tabletop, shelves, and strips of steel are useful for making edging edges from edged boards.

Assembly instructions

To begin with, 4 identical legs are made from a metal corner. The supports in the upper part are connected by a similar angle using welding machine. The resulting structure should be 50 x 100 cm. To provide the table with additional rigidity, pieces of corner are welded at a height of 10–15 cm from the floor. If desired, you can provide racks that serve as fastenings for drawers, shelves

Wooden boards must be laid on the frame, tightly secured with bolts, having previously provided the metal frame and the boards themselves with technological holes for fasteners.

Wooden countertops cannot withstand increased loads. For protection, galvanized iron of suitable size is used. It is secured on top of the boards with self-tapping screws.

When cutting, metal edges often become covered with burrs. For safety, it is recommended to sand them with a file.

For greater stability, the legs at the bottom can be equipped with metal plates with holes for fasteners. It is also recommended to screw the workbench to the floor. A metal screen is often installed on the side of the structure adjacent to the wall. It is convenient to place small tools on it.

Three mistakes
About universal workbenches
Work bench
Workbench composition
Bed: metal or wood?
For carpentry
Vise and joinery for mechanics
Workbench for garage
Home station wagon
The younger shift
Workbenches for the dacha

The general principle of the development of materials processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make parts for more precise ones using inaccurate equipment. And it all started with a workbench; prototypes of it are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to make a workbench with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but will also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its results.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make themselves workbenches on which, figuratively speaking, you can smash a tank with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and the money is hardly less than for a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition of industrial prototypes in a design for one’s own use, designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years, is one of typical mistakes development of workbenches of our own design.

The second is neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “game” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations have a particularly strong effect on workbenches on a metal frame.

The third - repeat carpentry or metal workbenches; perhaps with some modifications to suit your needs. Meanwhile, workbench designs for home/hobby work of different nature a lot. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, conversely, universal, temporary, made from scrap materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper, in accordance with the range of needs and/or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from scrap trash, at home for small precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, which are sometimes quite expensive, you can find “universal” workbenches in the form of a carpenter’s bench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vice on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:

"Universal" factory-made workbench

This is a wrong decision not only because the wooden tabletop is damaged by carpentry work. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. Wood soaked in them becomes much more flammable. Self-ignition is also possible; Remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oily rags in production. A different approach to designing the tabletop (board, lid) of a universal workbench is needed based on the type of work it is primarily used for - fine or coarse, see below.

Work bench

In the West, amateur/home workbenches with a stacked table top framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a “work bench” are shown in Fig. Under the fitter, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pad.

The bench workbench dampens vibrations well; It can be made from pine or spruce. But the design is complex, and it is inconvenient to work with long materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then a garage and a mechanic's workbench. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

Workbench composition

A workbench of “our” type (conditionally, since it is impossible to accurately determine its origin) consists of:

A bench (in carpentry workbenches), or a bed (in metalworking benches), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
An apron on which the tool is hung. An apron is not a necessary accessory for a workbench; it can hang on the wall or be replaced with a cabinet, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the installation location and type of work within the range of 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

The lid and shelf are most often made at the same time, one-piece, and are simply called a lid, a workbench board or a tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on a base (bed, substrate) made of wood. In a metalworking workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet of 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and the ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, twists, etc. defects) solid fine-grained wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) also serves as a shelf; in a workbench for the home, for the sake of simplifying it, without sacrificing quality, it is possible to have 2 -layer construction, see below.

The traditional design of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the carpentry shelf. This comes from the master craftsmen of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed/bench that you should start developing your workbench, no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over one on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood used is seasoned and impregnated, it will never bend. Secondly, wood perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops in a factory? And the overall strength and stability of the home workbench frame will be fully ensured by commercial coniferous wood of ordinary quality.

The design of a wooden workbench frame made from 120x40 boards is shown on the left in Fig. Permissible static load – 150 kgf; dynamic vertically downward for 1 s – 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on 6x70 self-tapping screws in a zigzag (snake) pattern with a distance from the edge of 30 mm and a pitch of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; the snakes on both sides of the package are made in mirror image. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel angles on self-tapping screws; the edge ones - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the tenons of the posts and, on the outside, with corners.

If timber 150x50 or (180...200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in Fig. The load-bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from timber 150x150, 150x75 and (180...200)x60 you can build a frame capable of bearing 450 kgf in static conditions and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: Any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Under the joinery, a box-shaped lid is placed on it (see below), and under the fitter, a tray from a 60x60x4 angle with welded 4-mm strips above the intermediate beams is placed. A wooden cushion is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding work for its manufacture, can be made according to the following scheme. rice. The “trick” here is in the tabletop, glued together from 75x50 timber and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts – timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and welding is available. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in Fig. Materials – corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Boxes are made of galvanized steel. Disadvantage - it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs; the structure will lose the ability to bear a dynamic load.

For a load of 200/600 a more convenient one is suitable metal workbench according to the diagram at the top right from a corrugated pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120...150)x40.

Shelf – steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x(30...35) self-tapping screws, a pair at each edge of each board, and along the outer boards - in increments of (60...70) mm. Only in this design will the workbench show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: for carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adjusted as described below. A bench vise is mounted on a wooden pad, but is not secured with a clamp. A collet anchor for an M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice pad from below, and a through hole is drilled in the cover for it. A 60x2 washer is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vices.

For carpentry

The cover of a carpenter's workbench, unlike a metalworker's one, is tightly attached to the bench and is box-shaped for overall rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-dismountable workbench - steel angles and self-tapping screws. The underbench can also be a steel frame from those described above.

How a carpentry workbench works traditional type, shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it on pos. B. The bench board (in this case it is a separate device) is used to work with long pieces. The support in its groove is made from a wedged piece of board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and secure it into the sockets with bolts with conical heads. The traditional design of a carpentry bench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

It is possible to reduce the cost of the carpentry workbench cover by making it 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for the shelf. They lay it by laying the boards with “humps” of annual layers, alternately up and down, to avoid warping. The shelf flooring is first glued together with PVA or carpentry glue, tightly compressed with a clamp or wrapped with a cord; put on the pillow using the same glue. The lid skirt is assembled separately using glue and through tenons (inset in pos. B) and attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Carpentry vice

Solid wood carpenter's vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by vices with metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some comments are needed here.

First, you need to place 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the cushion (wood 4x4x1 cm). Secondly, if the nut is not custom-made or purchased, then at least temporarily acquire a set of taps for the thread you are using. In this case, do not try to use a screw that is too thick for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is quite enough.

The nut of a homemade clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to recess it into the clamp pad, this way there is less chance that the nut will break off when clamped. But welding will cause the thread to go ugly; you can’t get rid of it with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be passed with taps according to the complete pattern, as when cutting: first tap - second - third (if included in the kit).

Note: The nut welded to the base must be allowed to rest for 2 hours before passing the thread so that the residual deformations “settle down.”

Vise and joinery for mechanics

The vice on a metalworking bench is installed in the corner (see inset in the figure) so that as much of the dynamic loads as possible during metal processing fall vertically on the corner post. It is advisable to make the location of the transverse beams and intermediate vertical posts of a workbench with a stationary vice slightly asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with the vice. The vice is also installed starting from the corner:

A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under an installation bolt, and a tall nut or threaded bushing is welded into a metal one (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
If the fastening unit is welded, the threads are threaded with taps, as in a homemade nut in a carpentry vice, see above;
Place the vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark the holes for fastening points 2, 3 and 4;
The vice is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
Place a vice on bolts 1, 2 and 3;
For fastening to bolt 4, place a jib U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to secure the jib, but it must rest from the bottom against the upper frame (frame) of the bed, but not against the table top!
Finally attach the vice to bolt 4.

Note: Stationary power tools are also secured in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs from plastic bottles, they endure a tight fit many times.

Workbench for garage

It is impossible to make a workbench in a garage with an optimal width for the ergonomics of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box of 4x7 m with a car parked in it do not allow it. Long ago, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined to be 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and it is more or less possible to work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor removed for rebuilding) turns out to be unstable, so it is attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench “resounds” stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

A diagram of the structure of one section of a garage workbench is shown in Fig. This design uses an ingenious method of additional vibration damping: the cells of the lid frames and the bottom shelf of the edge farthest from the corner are of different sizes. The installation accuracy of the crossbars is +/– 1 cm. For the same purpose, the lid and bottom shelf are made of 32 mm thick laminated chipboard and covered with linoleum instead of steel. Its durability is sufficient for garage work; can be easily replaced.

Fastening to walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Recess into a stone wall is 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the self-tapping screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already wall-mounted, and the wall-mounted one is on the left in Fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood is 10-12 mm. Opening for the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling machine” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the shavings fall directly onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench cabinet with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; It is also suitable for fine work in the home (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on cardboard. To fold, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, perhaps a folding workbench-box would be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they engage in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, model making, watchmaking, artistic cutting from plywood, etc. For small, delicate work, a universal workbench is suitable, drawings of which and its accessories are given in Fig. The durability of the working surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the tabletop is covered with linoleum. The bench vise for this workbench needs to be small, with a screw clamp fastening.

More about plywood

In general, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because... she calls back well. If the board cushion of the bench is made from plywood, then to its underside you need to glue a frame (frame) also made of plywood to its underside, see fig. Then it is advisable to first cover the upper (working side) with linoleum without a lining, and then lay the steel on it.

The younger shift

Another case when making a workbench board from plywood is justified is a student workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not beat him too much in vain, but work carefully. For the same purpose, masters of the past deliberately gave their students bad instruments.

Workbenches for the dacha

When country house or other light wooden structure is just being built, there is no time for bench intricacies, you need at least something on which to carry out simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can whip up a carpentry workbench for a summer house from scrap materials, on the left in Fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we make good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on arranging the dacha, a mini-workbench will be useful, on the right in Fig. With minimal material consumption and an extremely simple design, it is sufficiently stable for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because the middle of the bench board is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will be foldable and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed along with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha inhabited permanently or all summer, with a craftsman owner, by the way, you will need a more complex but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

Video: DIY folding workbench

Most home craftsmen, who comprise the bulk of subscribers and visitors to our site, have, to one degree or another, already solved the problem of organizing their workplace by arranging comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.

But there are also those who are interested in home handicrafts and are trying out this universal profession, which includes many specialties and is becoming a very useful hobby for the family.

First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful for those who have already found themselves in the role of a DIYer and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently set about arranging a home workbench for the workshop with their own hands.

Types of workbenches for the workshop

A workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized processing work different materials. Accordingly, depending on what material you have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. Based on the type of materials processed, workbenches are divided into:

carpentry;
metalwork;
combined.

Based design features, the following types are added to them:

universal;
folding.

Folding universal workbenches are produced by different companies with different lists of functions, and distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you have experience home handyman convert into banknotes outside your apartment or the yard of your house, you can either choose a factory-made universal folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.

But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable and here there are three options:

carpentry workbench with the ability to perform a number of metalwork operations;
a metalworking workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
combined workbench.

Let us immediately note that the last option is not the best solution, since it does not allow full high-quality performance of both carpentry and plumbing types of work, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in examples for self-production.

Making a simple DIY garage workbench

The simplest workbench for a home workshop will be a fairly powerful table with a small set of additional functions: drawers, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanent.

It’s good if it is possible to slightly transform it to perform metal or wood work, but more on that below.

To create such a workbench we will take wooden blocks 40x80 and cut out 4 legs: 2 pcs. 700 mm long, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower jumpers 500 mm long. For the 2 upper jumpers of the same length, we used a 40x100 block available on the farm.

It will also be used for the top trim of the base of our workbench at the front, with a length of 1400 mm at the bottom and 1600 mm at the top. And at the back we use edged board 40x150x1600, but we will need all the long pieces later.

If you have a tenoning tool, use it like we did.

If not, make them by hand or you can butt the pieces together using overhead metal fasteners.

Assemble the side posts as shown in the photo below.

After this, you can begin assembling the entire frame.

The central jumper inside the frame, made from the same 40x80 block, mounted on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, serves as a stop for two bedside tables with drawers from the old ones desks, which we decided to use in our workbench.

For the working surface of the workbench, we also used our existing laminated fiberboard surface. We screwed a board to the front edge on metal plates, which will protect its edge from peeling during use. It will also serve as the basis for attaching a small bench vice with a clamp.

We attached the working surface to the frame using metal corners and got a fairly powerful general-purpose workbench for our home workshop.

Manufacturing of a carpentry workbench with modifications for performing metalwork work

If you primarily work with wood, then the logical thing to do would be to build a woodworking bench and make some modifications to the design for metalworking operations.

The traditional carpentry workbench for the workshop has a design that has been proven over centuries, which has undergone virtually no significant changes until the present day. Its basis is a massive frame with tenon joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often stacked) tabletop with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vice-clamps for fastening workpieces.

The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on the maximum length of the workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are planning to make your own wooden doors, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m and the width at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. The workbench of my grandfather - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that to make large frames for verandas he was missing 20 centimeters in width.

The dimensions of the school carpentry workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the plan dimensions suit you and you are willing to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of appropriate sizes to the legs. But you can also consider alternative options.

As a matter of fact, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for a workshop with various materials for the countertop, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and different vice mechanisms. Now in order:

1. We make the bed from dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height to suit your height. If your workbench will be installed in a room where there are no sudden changes in humidity, then its elements can be connected in any convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.

2. The tabletop can be made from ready-made laminated wooden panels, sold in most construction supermarkets, or glued together from planed bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm yourself using PVA glue, having built a simple clamping device. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick-layer plywood for the tabletop, but it is still advisable to paste over its ends wooden slats made of oak, beech or ash.

3. To fasten the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the workbench table top is extended with bars of appropriate sizes. The most popular clamping devices are:

— carpentry lead screw with two guides made in Czech Republic Tr 24*5, 390/205 at a price of about 3 thousand rubles.

Spanish Piher carpentry vice, 150 mm, costing approx. 2 thousand rubles;

You can also make something similar yourself, using a pin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which, of course, will not transfer the same forces as a vice, but will make your clamp extremely economical and repairable, due to its low cost;

Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same pins, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 of these clamps on one vice.

4. Make holes for stop pegs in two directions opposite the vice lead screw. It is also useful to make them across the entire surface of the tabletop parallel to each other for secure fastening of large products.

5. Attach the workbench tabletop to the base using strong metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, use them to secure it to the floor.

And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench version described in this section of the article.

Now, several options for devices for performing metalwork work on such a workbench.

The simplest of them is to make a plate of steel 3 - 5 mm thick with a frame of steel angle, kept separately from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered onto the tabletop if necessary.
The main attribute of a metalworking workbench is a metalworking vice. In this case, we recommend using a vice with fasteners that do not require going through the workbench top.

You can, of course, adjust the holes for the stops to fit the vice fasteners, but with a thick pad you can do without it. Also interesting is the option of attaching a bench vice directly to the table top of a carpenter's workbench using an adapter bar-stand and a powerful clamp.

And the overlay should not cover the entire area of the workbench. There are a lot of options, the choice is yours.

Modification of a metalwork bench for carpentry work

Often, especially if the household has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a metalworker’s.

We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but about simple ways We’ll tell you how to adapt it for carpentry work, especially since it’s not at all difficult. To fully use your bench as a carpenter's bench, you will need to dismantle the bench vice and make several simple devices.

Let's take a closer look at them.

1. From the first picture below, when modifying a bench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the dowels (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a solid removable design) and a suitable wedge, we will get a simple and reliable device for attaching the board to the workbench. You can simply make a wooden plate secured with recessed clamps, with the entire set of workpiece fastenings shown, and understand that the level of the working surface will rise by its thickness, which can be compensated for by the corresponding height with a ladder at the workbench.

There is nothing to say about the back stop; it simply performs a supporting function for long workpieces.

2. You can make an overhead planing board with a universal stop, shown in the second picture. By increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the bar being processed) and screwing the bar from the bottom to the right edge of the workbench, we get the simplest device that turns a metalworker's workbench into a carpenter's workbench.

3. A slightly more complex overlay with a fairly powerful option for securing the workpiece also allows you to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is to also screw the stop on the right side and choose a thickness of at least 50-70 mm for more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.

The method of installing the last two planing devices on the workbench is shown in the diagram:

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