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The best solutions for making a pipe box in the bathroom. How to make a pipe box in the bathroom - a step-by-step installation guide

Communications passing through the bathroom most often represent an unattractive sight. by the most simple solution in this case, there may be an invitation to a master repairman. However, if you have the skills to work with the tool, you have an idea of ​​​​how to make a pipe box in the bathroom, then it is quite possible to do it on your own.

Moisture resistant drywall box

There is only one solution for ennobling communications - to close it with a decorative box. Occasionally, when the piping is dispersed over the surface of the wall, it is possible to use a false wall. In most apartments, the layouts are not particularly spacious. When the risers are located in the corners or in the case of a compact localization of the wiring, the best solution would be to use a bathroom box. So you can get the most compact arrangement, creating the illusion of a more spacious room.

Sewer and water pipes without a box look unaesthetic

There are two more questions that need to be resolved before starting work - what can a bath box be made of and what size should it be. The main requirement for materials is resistance to high humidity:

  • Moisture resistant drywall;
  • PVC wall panels;
  • Plastic box-channel.

Pipes hidden in a drywall box

The pipes are hidden under the frame for the PVC panels

Pipes in a plastic duct

As for the dimensions of the bath box, they should be determined by the principle of reasonable expediency. Pipes should be completely covered with decorative walls with a small margin. The size of the internal empty space should provide, if repair is necessary, the possibility of access through a removable hatch to key components (revisions, places for installing gaskets, threaded connections of pipelines).

Pipe box with inspection door

Disadvantages of drywall

The do-it-yourself box in the bathroom is most often made of moisture-resistant drywall. This is due to the low cost, availability and ease of processing of the material. Moisture-resistant paints or tiles can be used to finish the assembled structure.

When purchasing material, you should pay attention to the color of the sheet - moisture-resistant drywall has a green outer paper layer.

The main disadvantage that should be taken into account is the relatively low mechanical strength. When making a box in the bathroom, a drywall sheet is easy enough to accidentally break. In addition, the resistance of the material to prolonged exposure to moisture is quite limited. Only the outer paper layer is impregnated with protective compounds. When cutting a large sheet, the resulting edges will be exposed.

Appearance of moisture resistant drywall

The most critical is the formation of puddles on the floor near the wall of the box under the bathroom. In this case, quite a long time may elapse from the moment water appears to detection. Moisture can seep inside through the micro-slits at the junction of the box wall to the floor. When mounting the box in the bathroom, you can protect the bottom edge of the drywall sheet from getting wet with a strip silicone sealant.

What tools and materials will be needed for work

The implementation of a decorative box for a bath is not the most difficult, but still quite a laborious process. In addition to drywall itself, you will need a number of auxiliary materials:

  • Metal galvanized profiles - a frame is assembled from them;
  • Fasteners - self-tapping screws and dowel-nails for connecting the elements of the supporting structure, attaching it to the surface of the floor and walls, fixing drywall sheets;
  • Silicone sealant - for processing junctions with the floor;
  • Serpyanka and putty - they are necessary for masking the heads of self-tapping screws and sealing the joints of sheets (used when preparing the surface of the bathroom box for painting);
  • Inspection hatch - to perform Maintenance.

Assembling a frame from a metal profile

The set of tools that will be needed to perform the work is not so big. It is quite possible to get by with the necessary minimum, consisting of a screwdriver with a set of bits, a puncher, a construction knife and metal shears.

Necessary tools for making a box

Carcass execution

Work begins with marking the walls, floor, and, if necessary, the ceiling. The size and location of the lines will reflect the position of the walls of the box. To prevent distortions of the frame, the markup should be checked by level. Situations should be avoided when the walls of the drywall box in the bathroom will interfere with the opening of the furniture door or the front door.

The components of the frame are mounted according to the level

If all the rules are followed, and the markup is done correctly, you can start assembling the box frame for the bath. Metal profiles are cut into the required size with metal scissors. First, the segments are attached to the floor and walls - they create reference points for attaching the frame. Then, the installation of vertical racks of the supporting frame of the box under the bath is carried out. The assembly is completed by the installation of the upper guide, which combines all the elements into a single rigid structure. For maintenance of metering devices and sewer inspection, auxiliary guides are installed. In the future, they will serve as the basis on which the revision hatch will be attached.

The frame is assembled from metal guides

The profiles are connected to each other using self-tapping screws (“seeds”). On the surface of the metal, a notch is made to prevent the tip of the screw from slipping. Resting on these recesses, you can easily install fasteners.

Assembling the frame

A frame is assembled around pipes laid on the floor

In the frame, it is necessary to provide places for passing pipes

Frame sheathing

Standard sheets of drywall are cut into the required, pre-calculated size. It's a fairly simple process:

  • The sheet is laid on a flat surface (in extreme cases, cutting in a vertical or slightly inclined position is allowed);
  • Using a tape measure, the required size is measured and small risks are made on the surface with a knife;
  • A metal ruler or an even long wooden lath is superimposed on the marks obtained;
  • A construction knife makes an incision along the guide;
  • Drywall breaks off along the received line;
  • The resulting edge, if necessary, is trimmed with a knife.

The frame is sheathed with drywall

Cut sheets of drywall are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The sheet is pressed tightly, the screw is screwed first into the sheet, and then into the metal profile. As a result, the entire frame area (with the exception of the space provided for the hatch) must be sewn up. To facilitate puttying, the fastener caps must be sunk when screwing. To avoid cracking at the edges, fastening must be done with a small indent (2-3 cm).

Checking all elements for evenness

We use mineral wool for soundproofing

Finished frame

Finishing preparation

In order to protect the material of the bathroom box from water, all joints and junctions are treated with a sealant. It is best to use silicone with fungicide additives to prevent mold growth. Particularly careful sealing of the junctions should be carried out for the box under the bathroom, where access will be difficult.

Surface preparation before tiling is limited to treatment with a primer solution. The entire area of ​​the box under the bathroom and along the walls in the open space is covered with a working composition with a brush or roller. In internal and outside corners are fixed perforated corners, and then the tiles are glued using specialized compounds. It can be both dry mixes that need to be diluted with water, and mastics ready for use. Sometimes to save Supplies the box under the bathroom is covered with paint instead of tiles. Preparation for this type of work consists in gluing with a sickle the junctions of individual sheets. A leveling layer of putty is applied over the reinforcing tape and recessed fastener heads.

At the end of the finishing, an inspection hatch is installed. Its installation is carried out using standard mounting tabs. It is necessary that the hatch coincides in size with the hole left under it, and its size is sufficient for servicing.

Tiled plasterboard box with hatch

The use of finished polymer products

The pipe box in the bathroom can be assembled using plastic materials - finishing wall panels and channels. In the first case, the sequence of work is almost identical to that already considered - the frame is assembled and its sheathing is performed. Installation plastic panels is carried out using building adhesives “liquid nails”. To make the whole structure look neat, the joints and corners are masked with decorative strips. The inspection hatch is installed in its seat in the bathroom box, secured with fastening tabs to the surface of the panel profiles.

A good solution is to use standard plastic channels to make a bathroom box in which you can hide the piping. For this purpose, both specialized products and air duct elements are used. The advantage of this method is the absence of the need to perform additional operations (frame assembly, material cutting, finishing). It is enough to choose a plastic box suitable for the color of the bathroom for pipes of the required dimensions and fix them on the wall using a perforator.

Difficulties arise when it is necessary to cover the sewer riser. Find molded parts from which you can make a box for a pipe bath right size is quite difficult. Another point to consider is the installation of metering devices. It will have to be done either open or using a plastic box.

Regardless of what material is chosen for the manufacture of the box, all operations (cutting, installation, finishing) must be performed carefully. Otherwise, it makes no sense to take on, there is no work to do - the best option will invite a hired master.

Pipes are hidden in a box of PVC panels

Pipes in the bathroom always interfere with the perception of its interior. In some cases, there is no other way out than to make a pipe box in the bathroom to hide unaesthetic details of the situation. But this method of solving the problem has its own characteristics, which it is desirable to keep in mind.

How to choose the right materials?

It is technically easy to make a box in the bathroom with your own hands, but you should take into account the features of this room. High humidity and possible splashes on the walls dictate the owner to give preference to moisture-resistant materials. These include:

  • moisture resistant drywall;

    Moisture resistant drywall

  • plastic panels;

    Plastic panels

  • special types of plywood.

    Plywood moisture resistant

With a low ability to absorb moisture, sheet materials are easy to cut and process. They can be decorated to match the overall design of the bathroom by painting, tiling or plastering as needed.

It is required to fix the sheet material on the frame, therefore, in addition to plasterboard or other sheets, you must also select the material for the guides. It is most convenient to use ready-made profiles for the installation of drywall. This metal constructions strong and light at the same time. They are easy to cut and attach to each other and walls. Installation of sheet material is carried out by means of self-tapping screws.

An alternative to profiles is wooden block. Planks 3-5 cm thick do not make the structure heavier and are easily connected with self-tapping screws. Their only drawback may be their susceptibility to rot when exposed to moist bathroom air.

How to prepare a workplace?

Before you make a box in the bathroom with your own hands, you need to determine whether it will close the communications directly or capture the entire adjacent wall. In each individual case, either option may seem preferable. Each of them has its own characteristics:

  1. If you hide the entire wall under the panels of the box, on which the ugly pipe is located, then any design solution nothing will interfere. A neat, even false wall can be finished as you like. But the method also has a drawback: the panels are located at a distance of about 20 cm from the bathroom wall. It is by this amount that the length or width of the room will decrease. In small apartments, this can be significant.

    Frame for false wall

  2. By covering only that part of the wall where communications pass with a box, you can save some space in the bathroom. But the box will remain an eye-catching and interfering interior detail.

For a radical solution to the issue, some place in the space behind the panels a whole system of storage for the right things. Such a pipe bathroom box turns into a kind of rack with doors.

How to make a box of drywall, panels, plywood or other material is a personal matter for each owner. In order to imagine the possibilities of each of the methods, you must first draw a sketch and draw a rough plan of the situation in the bathroom from it. According to the drawings, the amount of necessary materials is also calculated, taking into account the height of the room, the width of the box and the presence of additional parts in it.

After that, you can proceed to the procurement and preparation of everything you need, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • profiles (bar);
  • self-tapping screws for connecting and fastening sheets or panels;
  • dowels for fastening the profile to a concrete wall;
  • perforator with nozzles for drilling concrete and metal, with a screwdriver;
  • hacksaw for wood or metal, depending on the material of the frame;
  • plumb, level, tape measure.

Before starting the installation of the box in the pipe bathroom, it is necessary to find out the condition of the communications. In a closed space, any minor leak may go unnoticed for some time until an emergency occurs. Due to an unnoticed defect, a bathroom repair may be required later, so it is best to identify the problem in time and fix it.

Marking the frame for the box

Most often, sewerage and water supply risers are located side by side and run vertically in one of the corners. Therefore, marking the place under the box in the bathroom with your own hands should start from the ceiling. This will make it possible in the future to lower the exact vertical to the floor and make the planes perfectly even.

If you plan to sew up the entire wall with panels, then near the pipes in the bathroom with your own hands you need to measure the depth of the space between the wall and the location of the profile for the plasterboard or bar. In this case, it must be taken into account that the guide must be at least 5 cm away from the communications. Remember the distance found in order to make a mark in the opposite corner. Connect the dots with a straight line across the ceiling.

At two arbitrarily chosen points on this line, lower the plumb line to the floor. Put labels corresponding to the points selected on the ceiling. Draw a straight line through them on the floor.

It is desirable to perform the same algorithm of actions if the pipes run horizontally. Accurate marking will help to make the frame for the box in the bathroom very neatly and without distortions. In this case, the line on the ceiling will not be needed, so it is better not to draw it, but to put marks near opposite walls. When lowering the plumb line, it will be necessary to mark the points of the front face of the box on the floor, and the junction of its edge to the walls - on them. In this case, the height of the box is determined depending on the height of the pipes above the floor, taking into account a gap of 5-7 cm.

horizontal box

In order to mark the frame of a vertical drywall corner box in the bathroom, you will have to act a little differently:

  • set aside along the ceiling the distance from one of the adjacent walls parallel to the neighboring one, taking into account the gaps of 5-7 cm from the pipes to the guides;
  • do the same from the adjacent wall, at the intersection of the lines put a point from which the plumb line will be lowered;
  • use this tool to mark the projections of 3 points (connections to walls and intersection of lines) on the floor.

It is quite simple to draw an angle according to the marked marks. You need to connect the junction point with the intersection point and repeat this from the adjacent wall. The resulting rectangle will be identical to the one drawn on the ceiling.

Frame installation

The marked lines indicate the location of the inner edge of the profile. Cut the material to the measured lengths of the sides of the box that will serve as the pipe box in the drywall bathroom. Attach profiles to the ceiling, floor and walls with dowels in pre-drilled holes. The slats of the frame must be aligned according to the markup and additionally check their verticality and horizontality, eliminating defects.

Profile fixing

The location of rigidly fixed parts will be different:

  1. For a fully wired wall, horizontal rails are installed on the ceiling and floor. Then 2 verticals are attached between them on opposite walls. If it is necessary to build shelves inside this space, it will be necessary to additionally install profiles on the wall to be closed.
  2. If a horizontal box is made in the bathroom, you need to strengthen the planks on the floor, on the wall above the pipe and adjacent walls (vertically and horizontally) with your own hands.
  3. Do-it-yourself vertical frame for a box in the bathroom is assembled from racks on adjacent walls and squares on the ceiling and floor.

After the parts adjacent to the walls and ceilings are fixed, you can install connecting elements that form an angle or plane. At the same time, for a vertical box, the same front post is installed, for a horizontal one, it is fixed in the appropriate position. On a completely wired wall without internal space equipment, you will need to put several verticals with a step that will allow you to attach the panels used (gypsum board, plastic or plywood) along the edges and in the center.

To ensure structural rigidity, crossbars are placed connecting long parallel profiles. Their location depends on the orientation of the box itself. In any case, the orientation of the crossbars must be perpendicular to the main rails.

Box cladding

Depending on the location of the pipe box in the bathroom, the installation of the cladding will differ in each case. This is dictated by the nuances of joining panels made of plasterboard or plywood. The assembly of plastic parts is carried out according to its own, special technology.

To mount sheet materials on a do-it-yourself frame, you should cut them according to the measurements taken from it - this is the length and width of each flat part. To make a drywall box in the bathroom, it is advisable to use whole sheets so that there are as few joints as possible.

If the pipes have a fitting connection, a faucet or other place of possible leakage, then a convenient hole should be provided in the wall of the drywall box. It will give access to a responsible place. In order to close it, a small secret door can be made. It is desirable to install additional crossbars along the edges of the hole.

Hole in the box

GKL or plywood are attached to a completely sewn wall in the same way as with normal alignment: the fasteners are screwed in at the corners of the sheet, along the edges in increments of about 20 cm and in the center. In this case, the joint of adjacent sheets necessarily falls on the profile bar. The heads of the screws must be sunk into the material so that they are not visible after finishing.

When sheathing a vertical frame that covers only pipes, first mount the side parts that make up the box in the bathroom of plasterboard or plywood. The measurement and cutting must be done so that the outer edges match perfectly with the corner of the profile. If necessary, they can be cut flush with the corresponding plane with a sharp knife.

The front panel must be cut out so that it covers the edges of the side sheets. You can attach the GKL to the frame with special short self-tapping screws, using a screwdriver nozzle for this purpose.

With a horizontal pipe in the bathroom, you must first screw the vertical, front panel onto the frame. After that, set the horizontal one so that it overlaps the edge of the previous one. Such a measure will make the drywall pipe box less vulnerable to splashes when taking a shower and other hygiene procedures. You can tile plasterboard or plywood with tiles. The tile will reliably protect the material.

Plastic panels as cladding

Making a plastic box for pipes in the bathroom is much easier. Lightweight moisture resistant material does not require additional protection.

plastic box

To close the pipes in the bathroom, a box of panels can be done like this:

  • install the starting profile on the guides, fastening - self-tapping screws;
  • measure and cut the panel, insert it into the profile, fix it with screws;
  • glue or screw the adjacent element to the corner profile and connect it to the installed PVC panel;
  • attach the profile to the frame and assemble the other side.

In construction companies, you can purchase a hatch for PVC panels. It will be required if it is necessary to make an inspection hole in the panel.

Currently, trade organizations also offer XPS panels that do not need to install a frame. They are fastened by means of an end plate installed on the ceiling and threaded legs, which raise and fix the panel.

Video instruction

You can't do without communication systems in the bathroom. However, water and sewer pipes are unlikely to give your room an aesthetic appearance. Therefore, most residents, in the process of repair, try to hide all communications. To implement the plan, there are several ways: hide the pipes with furniture, boxes, shutters or wall them up in the wall. When choosing a masking option, it is worth considering the possibility of maintaining communications. So that in the event of a breakdown, you do not have to break the decor of the room. By installing a pipe box in the bathroom, you can make a collapsible structure or build small doors for access to communications.

Depending on the location of the mains, the box can be installed in two ways: closing only the pipes or the entire wall on which they are located. In the first option, by closing only those areas where there are pipes, you save on material. Sewing the entire plane on which the highways are located looks more aesthetically pleasing, but reduces the usable area of ​​​​the bathroom. In order to somehow use the space in the box not occupied by pipes, small storage facilities are built there for various things.

What is the best box to make?

Before closing unsightly communications, it is necessary to choose the right material for the box, behind which pipes in the bathroom will be hidden. It must meet several requirements:

  • be sufficiently resistant to moisture;
  • have a small weight and thickness;
  • made from environmentally friendly ingredients that do not emit harmful substances.

According to these criteria, from commercially available materials for the manufacture of a box in the bathroom, you can use: MDF, moisture-resistant plywood, moisture-resistant drywall or plastic.

Preparatory stage

Most often, problems with the pipeline occur at the junctions. Therefore, the fewer, the better. If the box is installed after laying new pipes, care must be taken to ensure that the line has as few connections as possible. If the replacement of the pipeline is not included in your plans, before hiding the pipes in the bathroom, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of them. Inspect all lines for defects and, if any, eliminate them.

It is believed that without fear of leaks, soldered and welded joints can be closed. But fittings with threaded connections should have free access. They need to be checked periodically. Therefore, threaded connections cannot be walled up. It is also necessary to provide free access to valves, sewer revisions, meters, filters.

Making a box step by step

Installation of the box in the bathroom consists of several stages. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Measuring and sizing a structure

Before sealing the pipes, it is necessary to make the necessary measurements and clarify the location of the box. In places of unreliable connections, to meters and valves, it is necessary to provide a removable part or a door. A floor plan on a scale will not interfere, on which all structural details will be marked. When measuring, do not forget about the thickness finishing material.

Having determined the contour of the future structure on the floor, with the help of a plumb line they transfer it to the ceiling, and then make markings on the walls.

Mounting the frame for subsequent sheathing

Before sewing communications into the box, it is necessary to install a frame around the pipes. It is best to make it from a galvanized profile. Since the air in the bathroom is constantly humid, the use of wooden blocks is undesirable. If you still decide to use them, choose bars made of decay-resistant rocks. And before use, treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic.

The adhesion of the frame elements to each other is carried out with self-tapping screws or with the help of a cutter. To fix the profile to the wall, dowels and euro screws are used.

It is necessary to mount the profiles to the wall, taking into account that the finishing material subsequently does not adhere closely to the pipes

The first step is to mount the profile on the walls. Then install the racks forming the front face.

Depending on the design of the future box, there may be several or only one A-pillars. They are attached using their own curved edge or suspensions.

After that, the guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor.

It is convenient to fasten vertical and horizontal profiles to each other using a cutter

If the length of the racks is more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to make jumpers between them. They will also be needed for a frame whose width is more than 0.25 m. The distance between the jumpers is made no more than a meter.

For structural strength, jumpers are attached to racks with a height of more than 1.5 m

Using wooden frame treat the saw cut with construction mastic. This will protect the box from damage and prevent its deformation during temperature and humidity fluctuations.

Sheathing the frame of the box with sheet material

When cutting out the details for the box, try to make whole elements, and not from pieces. First, cut the side pieces. They are cut in such a way that the edges do not protrude beyond the frame profiles, but are flush with them. After that, cut out the front of the box. It should cover the side elements.

After cutting the material, it is mounted to the racks. Do it with self-tapping screws (3.5-4.5 cm). The distance between them should be no more than 2.5 cm. Such a box will have sufficient strength, so it is not necessary to attach the material to the jumpers. To control the weak points of the pipeline, inspection holes with doors are left.

An opening must be left in the box for free access to valves, meters and filters. It can be buried with a door purchased from a hardware store.

You can build them yourself or buy ready-made ones. For the hand-made manufacture of access points to pipes, a door is made from the material that is used for the box itself. So that it does not open, furniture magnets are fixed on them.

The door for the control hole can be finished with the same material as the entire box. So it will be less noticeable

You can make a fully collapsible box. To do this, sheets of finishing material are attached to the screws to the very edge. Making the final finish, they are not covered with tiles.

Finally, plastic corners or a plinth are fixed. When it will be necessary to dismantle the box, remove the plinth, unscrew the screws and remove the finishing material.

Self-tapping screws, closed with a plastic corner, are easily unscrewed to dismantle the box in case of emergency. After that, the box remains intact and can be mounted in place

Final decorative finish

The final stage of the installation of the box is its finishing. It depends on the material from which the structure is made. Plywood, drywall and MDF can be veneered ceramic tiles or color. Plastic panels do not need further finishing. They look pretty attractive on their own. Unlike drywall, plastic does not reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

To decorate the bath, a frame is constructed from a profile

In the same way, the pipes are closed under the bath itself. First, the frame is mounted, and then it is sheathed, leaving the control doors.

Moisture-resistant drywall is mounted on top of the frame from the profile and tiles are mounted on it. Be sure to leave a door for pipe maintenance

Now knowing how to mount the box, you can decorate any pipes in the bathroom and make the room more attractive from an aesthetic point of view. Hiding communications in the bathroom improves the design of the room. In addition, after closing the pipes with a box, the noise level emanating from them is reduced.

Video example of these finishing works

Pipes left in plain sight are not the best addition to the bathroom interior. In order for the room to have a neat and complete look, communications must be hidden. Moreover, it is desirable to do this in such a way as to have access to pipe connections, valves, meters and filters. The best solution to this problem would be the manufacture of a box. Consider how to make a pipe box in the bathroom from plastic panels.

Advantages of a plastic box

The design for masking pipes can be made of plastic or drywall. Each of these options is good in its own way, but in terms of practicality, the plastic box is in the lead. It has many undeniable advantages:

  • Possibility of quick disassembly without damaging the material. This property of plastic construction is especially relevant for pipes joined with fittings and threaded connections, which are not immune from leaks. After the liquidation of a breakdown or scheduled maintenance of the pipes, the box is easily assembled back.
  • No need for further finishing. Plastic panels themselves are already finishing decorative material, unlike drywall, which requires finishing.
  • Deformation resistance and ease of repair. The plastic used to make the panels is strong and flexible, so it's less likely to break than tiles that can be accidentally broken. Even if one panel is damaged, it is easy to replace it with a new one without damaging the entire structure.
  • Moisture resistance. PVC is not afraid of water, does not rot, nothing will happen to the box, even if it is installed close to the bathtub or gets wet due to condensate that forms on the pipes.
  • Ease of installation. Installation of the box will take only a few hours and will not require the use of expensive or specific tools.
  • Affordable price. Plastic panels for bathrooms are one of the most inexpensive finishing materials.
  • Spaciousness and compactness. Due to the small thickness of the panels, the plastic construction is very roomy and does not take up much extra space in the bathroom, which is especially important for a small room.

The plastic box is very practical: it can be disassembled and reassembled as many times as necessary.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the assembly of the box, you need to carry out several preliminary activities.

  • Examine all the pipes that will be hidden. Eliminate defects while communications are in sight. If a new pipeline is being installed along the way, try to keep the number of connections to a minimum.
  • Decide what kind of box in the bathroom will have. It can hide only a small area where the pipes pass, or take up a fairly large area. The advantage of the first option is to save material and no need to sacrifice free space. When choosing a more voluminous modification, additional space inside the structure can be adapted for storing things.

Tip: if you are going to lay out the walls with tiles, it will be more convenient to make a box first. It will hide part of the floor, and you won't have to lay tiles in this place.

  • Take the necessary measurements and make a drawing of the box. At this stage, provide such important additional elements as hatches for access to meters, valves and unreliable connections.
  • Calculate quantity required material with little margin.

It will be more convenient to dock the panels horizontally. In the vertical version, to ensure the rigidity of the structure, it will be necessary to mount additional transverse frame bars every 40 cm.

Necessary materials

To make a plastic box you will need:

  • metal profiles for UD and CD frame;
  • polymer panels;
  • silicone sealant;
  • plinths made of PVC for masking joints;
  • revision hatches-doors;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • sharp construction knife.

Making a box frame

Follow the instructions below when installing the frame structure.

  • On the walls adjacent to the corner, install guides (UD profiles) that will set the dimensions of the box. Don't forget to use the level. To fasten the supporting profiles to the wall, use euro screws and dowels. If the surface is tiled, you can take metal screws 2.5 centimeters long and 3.5 millimeters in diameter. They are twisted into the seams between the tiles.

Tip: To save space in the bathroom, install the profiles closer to the pipes. The minimum distance is 3 centimeters.

  • If the pipes run horizontally, place the profile parallel to the floor and fix it on it.
  • Start forming the outer corner. From two UD profiles, twist the corner post. Direct their shelves in different directions at a right angle and connect them with small screws - “fleas”.
  • Cut the carrier profile CD into pieces, the length of which will correspond to the dimensions of the structure. Fasten the corner stiffener to the wall. Insert the finished pieces of the profile with one end into the guide installed at the first stage, with the other into the stiffener. Thus, both parts of the corner are connected to the profile.
  • Every 50 centimeters, add jumpers, which are necessary for the subsequent fastening of PVC panels.
  • The second corner profile is attached in a similar way to another wall.

We sheathe the frame with PVC panels

After the supporting structure is ready, you can proceed to its sheathing. You need to do this in the following sequence:

  • Install the start profile. Carefully, avoiding deformation, fix it with the help of "fleas" on the installed rail.
  • Measure a strip of plastic panel to the desired length, cut it with a sharp knife.
  • Fix one panel in the starting profile, attach the second to the corner profile and install it to the other plane of the box. To connect, use all the same "fleas", or "bugs".
  • Assemble the other side of the box in the same way. Fix the starting profile on the last plastic panel, then fix it. If you do this with silicone, you can ensure that you can easily dismantle it in the future in case of an emergency.
  • Cut inspection holes where you need easy access to important elements pipeline: taps, meters and joints. Using silicone sealant, fix special hatches in the holes.
  • The last step is to install plastic skirting boards at the joints of the panels with each other, as well as with the floor, walls and ceiling.

The piping box in the bathroom is ready. With the right color of the panels, it looks neat and harmonious even in combination with tiled finishes.

A plumbing box (in other cases it is called a plumbing cabinet) is used in most panel and brick series of modern houses (starting from the 70s).

It is also always present in monolithic houses, however, in fact, in most cases it is not there and the owner is invited to build it according to the "bricks" laid out on the floor of the room.

It is a building envelope (with an access hatch) for hot and cold water supply risers, as well as a sewer riser.

The main information that the customer should have regarding the installation of a sanitary duct is the understanding that the area inside the duct belongs to the common house area and is not included in the area of ​​​​the apartment.

Based on this, the only thing that is possible during the repair is the removal of the old plumbing box and building a new one along its border. modern materials With obligatory installation it has a hatch for access to utilities.

Materials used:

  • Moisture-resistant drywall with ceramic tile lining;
  • Thin tongue-and-groove blocks;

Measures for the redevelopment of the sanitary duct:

  • Dismantling the sanitary ware (building a new one) with a subsequent increase in the original dimensions.

Application:

In addition to its direct purpose (fencing water supply risers), a sanitary duct is often used as a structure for embedding a toilet installation.
Also, an enlarged sanitary cabinet can be used to place an electric boiler in it. for the purpose of heating water for the period of summer shutdown of hot water supply.

What are access hatches and why are they needed:

Access hatches in a plumbing box come in a variety of shapes.
The main thing is that the hatch must have sufficient dimensions to inspect the condition of risers, taps and water supply meters, as well as to carry out routine repairs of utility risers. Above we gave a link to an article about access hatches.

Affecting the plumbing box entails work on a new waterproofing of the bathroom floor. Since the plumbing box, as well as the walls in the bathroom, must be waterproofed, which is necessary as a protection against possible leaks between floors. It winds up on the plumbing box, as well as on the walls in the bathroom to a height of 15-20 cm.

In new monolithic houses, the developer shifts the work on installing a plumbing box to the owner (but at the same time he does not forget to mark them with a dotted line on the BTI plan as completed). As a result, the future owners will have to build a sanitary ware box in the dimensions marked on the floor plan with the installation of an access hatch. And if this box is not "physically" when renting an apartment, this does not mean that it can not be built, or built in smaller dimensions, it only means that the developer saved on materials and provided this "honorable" duty to the owner himself

In the end, we will answer the main question that worries the owners:

Are there still cases in which the plumbing box can be partially dismantled.
- There is.

But it's hard enough. As we have already mentioned, the plumbing box refers to the common area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, which can be affected when technical feasibility subject to the consent of 2/3 of the tenants of the house.
This means that if you have a large plumbing box, and engineering communications are "huddled" somewhere in the corner, then theoretically it can be reduced in size. "Only" it is necessary to collect the signatures of 2/3 of the residents of the house that they are not against this event, back it up with the seal of the management company and submit the protocol along with the project documentation for consideration by the housing inspection.

Under this condition, she will agree to the dismantling of the partial dismantling of the plumbing box. Of course, in words, the path is clear and seemingly simple, but in practice, not only is it difficult to get the consent of 2/3 of the owners of the house, it is difficult to find them "in principle", which leads to the fact that very few dared to start this path.

From practice: One of our cases was the dismantling of a plumbing box.

Initial data - a new building, a monolith, an apartment on the middle floor. The customer's floor plan of the BTI shows a plumbing box, and in a strange place, and what is most strange shown then it is shown , but in it NO engineering communications.

It’s just that on the BTI plan there is a square that appeared for no reason, in an illogical place, and it needs to be enclosed with a square just in fact so that this area does not enter the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe apartment (after all, this is a common house area).

The customer, of course, did not want to do this at all - after all, in his new monolith, the design solution was so well thought out, and this square does not fit into it at all, it was not taken into account, and we understood well that it really did not fit there.

Started an "investigation". It turned out that the new building consists of 8 identical sections. And in one of the sections (not in this one), the developer provided for another riser of communications in this very place. When BTI measured the area at the end, it was too lazy, measured only one of the sections (namely, the section with the box) and "and applied-projected" this plan to other sections, without even going in and not measuring them (it looks like the house is the same). (But it was said later and in a whisper).

Officially, this error is categorically refused to admit. As a result, the remaining seven sections turned out to be potential "violators", because none of the owners was eager to allocate it for no reason, in an incomprehensible place, "out of the box" square meter apartments.

Of course, it was possible to "fight" to raise the archives of the developer, to travel, to prove, but this is a month or two or three, it was impossible to start repairs without permission, and the owner is already living in the renovated apartment in his thoughts, and the mortgage is "dripping" and it seemed to us an easier way work with the management company. Moreover, she turned out to be surprisingly sane and understood the absurdity of the situation.

The management company engineer called the owners, they came and each owner allowed all other owners to dismantle the box. This paper remained in the management company for issuing copies to the rest, and we handed ours over to the housing inspection along with a set of project documentation and received permission for redevelopment.

A typical example of how owners affect plumbing boxes:

Below we show an example of affecting the plumbing box of one of the recent customers:

At the beginning, we did not have clear initial data, that is, BTI documents, there was only a photo, but when looking at the apartment after redevelopment (the right photo in the top row), an initial assumption appeared that not everything was “smooth”.

A little later, the customer sent us a photo before the repair (left photo - apartment "in concrete") and BTI documents. And after analyzing these documents, everything immediately became clear.
In general, based on experience by 95 percent, we already assumed that there would be something like that, but it was not superfluous to be confirmed.

If we look at the left photo, we will see that the boundaries of the plumbing box are "clearly" lined with "bricks" on the floor. That is, they are clearly defined and it is impossible to change the dimensions of the box.

And as we already know that a plumbing box is just a "cabinet with a door" and you cannot additionally "tuning" it.

In this case, the customer:
not only reduced the box in size, we reflected this in the bottommost picture with the BTI plan,
so embedded in upper part boxes open shelves , as well as at the bottom safe between pipes.

A combined photo, before and after the repair, on which something is proportionally placed somewhere.

Below on the BTI plans you can see how the box looked before redevelopment, and how it began to look after redevelopment.

Communications passing through the bathroom most often represent an unattractive sight. The simplest solution in this case may be to invite a master repairman. However, if you have the skills to work with the tool, you have an idea of ​​​​how to make a pipe box in the bathroom, then it is quite possible to do it on your own.

Moisture resistant drywall box

There is only one solution for ennobling communications - to close it with a decorative box. Occasionally, when the piping is dispersed over the surface of the wall, it is possible to use a false wall. In most apartments, the layouts are not particularly spacious. When the risers are located in the corners or in the case of a compact localization of the wiring, the best solution would be to use a bathroom box. So you can get the most compact arrangement, creating the illusion of a more spacious room.

Sewer and water pipes without a box look unaesthetic

There are two more questions that need to be resolved before starting work - what can a bath box be made of and what size should it be. The main requirement for materials is resistance to high humidity:

  • PVC wall panels;

Pipes hidden in a drywall box

The pipes are hidden under the frame for the PVC panels

Pipes in a plastic duct

As for the dimensions of the bath box, they should be determined by the principle of reasonable expediency. Pipes should be completely covered with decorative walls with a small margin. The size of the internal empty space should provide, if repair is necessary, the possibility of access through a removable hatch to key components (revisions, places for installing gaskets, threaded connections of pipelines).

Pipe box with inspection door

Disadvantages of drywall

The do-it-yourself box in the bathroom is most often made of moisture-resistant drywall. This is due to the low cost, availability and ease of processing of the material. Moisture-resistant paints or tiles can be used to finish the assembled structure.

When purchasing material, you should pay attention to the color of the sheet - moisture-resistant drywall has a green outer paper layer.

The main disadvantage that should be taken into account is the relatively low mechanical strength. When making a box in the bathroom, a drywall sheet is easy enough to accidentally break. In addition, the resistance of the material to prolonged exposure to moisture is quite limited. Only the outer paper layer is impregnated with protective compounds. When cutting a large sheet, the resulting edges will be exposed.

Appearance of moisture resistant drywall

The most critical is the formation of puddles on the floor near the wall of the box under the bathroom. In this case, quite a long time may elapse from the moment water appears to detection. Moisture can seep inside through the micro-slits at the junction of the box wall to the floor. When installing the box in the bathroom, you can protect the bottom edge of the drywall sheet from getting wet with a strip of silicone sealant.

What tools and materials will be needed for work

The implementation of a decorative box for a bath is not the most difficult, but still quite a laborious process. In addition to drywall itself, you will need a number of auxiliary materials:

  • Metal galvanized profiles - a frame is assembled from them;
  • Fasteners - self-tapping screws and dowel-nails for connecting the elements of the supporting structure, attaching it to the surface of the floor and walls, fixing drywall sheets;
  • Silicone sealant - for processing junctions with the floor;
  • Serpyanka and putty - they are necessary for masking the heads of self-tapping screws and sealing the joints of sheets (used when preparing the surface of the bathroom box for painting);
  • Inspection hatch - for maintenance.

Assembling a frame from a metal profile

The set of tools that will be needed to perform the work is not so big. It is quite possible to get by with the necessary minimum, consisting of a screwdriver with a set of bits, a puncher, a construction knife and metal shears.

Necessary tools for making a box

Carcass execution

Work begins with marking the walls, floor, and, if necessary, the ceiling. The size and location of the lines will reflect the position of the walls of the box. To prevent distortions of the frame, the markup should be checked by level. Situations should be avoided when the walls of the drywall box in the bathroom will interfere with the opening of the furniture door or the front door.

The components of the frame are mounted according to the level

If all the rules are followed, and the markup is done correctly, you can start assembling the box frame for the bath. Metal profiles are cut into the required size with metal scissors. First, the segments are attached to the floor and walls - they create reference points for attaching the frame. Then, the installation of vertical racks of the supporting frame of the box under the bath is carried out. The assembly is completed by the installation of the upper guide, which combines all the elements into a single rigid structure. For maintenance of metering devices and sewer inspection, auxiliary guides are installed. In the future, they will serve as the basis on which the revision hatch will be attached.

The frame is assembled from metal guides

The profiles are connected to each other using self-tapping screws (“seeds”). On the surface of the metal, a notch is made to prevent the tip of the screw from slipping. Resting on these recesses, you can easily install fasteners.

Assembling the frame

Frame sheathing

Standard sheets of drywall are cut into the required, pre-calculated size. It's a fairly simple process:

  • The sheet is laid on a flat surface (in extreme cases, cutting in a vertical or slightly inclined position is allowed);
  • Using a tape measure, the required size is measured and small risks are made on the surface with a knife;
  • A metal ruler or an even long wooden lath is superimposed on the marks obtained;
  • A construction knife makes an incision along the guide;
  • Drywall breaks off along the received line;
  • The resulting edge, if necessary, is trimmed with a knife.

The frame is sheathed with drywall

Cut sheets of drywall are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The sheet is pressed tightly, the screw is screwed first into the sheet, and then into the metal profile. As a result, the entire frame area (with the exception of the space provided for the hatch) must be sewn up. To facilitate puttying, the fastener caps must be sunk when screwing. To avoid cracking at the edges, fastening must be done with a small indent (2-3 cm).

Checking all elements for evenness

We use mineral wool for soundproofing

Finished frame

Finishing preparation

In order to protect the material of the bathroom box from water, all joints and junctions are treated with a sealant. It is best to use silicone with fungicide additives to prevent mold growth. Particularly careful sealing of the junctions should be carried out for the box under the bathroom, where access will be difficult.

Surface preparation before tiling is limited to treatment with a primer solution. The entire area of ​​the box under the bathroom and along the walls in the open space is covered with a working composition with a brush or roller. Perforated corners are fixed to the inner and outer corners, and then the tiles are glued using specialized compounds. It can be both dry mixes that need to be diluted with water, and mastics ready for use. Sometimes, to save consumables, the box under the bathroom is covered with paint instead of tiles. Preparation for this type of work consists in gluing with a sickle the junctions of individual sheets. A leveling layer of putty is applied over the reinforcing tape and recessed fastener heads.

At the end of the finishing, an inspection hatch is installed. Its installation is carried out using standard mounting tabs. It is necessary that the hatch coincides in size with the hole left under it, and its size is sufficient for servicing.

Tiled plasterboard box with hatch

The use of finished polymer products

The pipe box in the bathroom can be assembled using plastic materials - finishing wall panels and channels. In the first case, the sequence of work is almost identical to that already considered - the frame is assembled and its sheathing is performed. Installation of plastic panels is carried out using building adhesives "liquid nails". To make the whole structure look neat, the joints and corners are masked with decorative strips. The inspection hatch is installed in its seat in the bathroom box, secured with fastening tabs to the surface of the panel profiles.

A good solution is to use standard plastic channels to make a bathroom box in which you can hide the piping. For this purpose, both specialized products and air duct elements are used. The advantage of this method is the absence of the need to perform additional operations (frame assembly, material cutting, finishing). It is enough to choose a plastic box suitable for the color of the bathroom for pipes of the required dimensions and fix them on the wall using a perforator.

Difficulties arise when it is necessary to cover the sewer riser. It can be quite difficult to find shaped parts from which it is possible to make a box for a bathtub for pipes of the desired size. Another point to consider is the installation of metering devices. It will have to be done either open or using a plastic box.

Regardless of what material is chosen for the manufacture of the box, all operations (cutting, installation, finishing) must be performed carefully. Otherwise, it makes no sense to take on, there is no work to do - the best option would be to invite a hired master.

Pipes are hidden in a box of PVC panels

When carrying out repairs, it is quite often necessary to level the walls and ceiling, hide pipes in the bathroom and toilet, hide batteries in the kitchen, make the ceiling illuminated, so installing a drywall box is an excellent solution to such problems.

A drywall box can hide a sewer riser, level the surface for false ceiling, eliminate the curvature of the walls and much more.

All work on the manufacture of the structure can be done by hand, but you must know the manufacturing technology.

You can make 2 versions of the drywall device: a corner one with two edges, and a ceiling or wall with three edges.

Below is an instruction on how to make a drywall box.

Making a corner device

Making a corner box of drywall with your own hands is easy. Basically, the corner version is mounted in the toilet and bathroom due to small area premises.

Installation begins with marking. To do this, you need to make marks on the ceiling corresponding to the width of the device, and on the wall - to its length.

If the design is vertical, then the length and width are deposited on the walls. Having made marks, you need to draw lines using the building level.

Now you need to mark the volume of the structure, which is marked as follows: the extreme points of attachment of the corner element are located, then from the lines marking the dimensions of the structure, perpendiculars are lowered to the end parts of the structure.

If the box is horizontal, then the markings are made on the walls, if the box is vertical, on the floor and ceiling.

The next step is to install a metal profile, which is attached according to the finished markings.

For fastening, holes are made with a perforator and dowels are hammered. The profile is recommended to be fixed on one side of the intended line.

When fastening, the shelves of the two profiles should be at right angles to each other.
Then the corner piece is trimmed and installed.

The installation of this element is carried out as follows: the corner element is inserted into the profiles at the point where they intersect. The corner element is fixed with self-tapping screws. Then comes the finishing.

Now you need to make stiffeners from the profile, attach one edge to the profile on the wall, and the other to the corner element. The stiffening ribs are fastened with texas.

The frame from the profile is ready, now you need to sheathe it with drywall. It is better to cut a sheet of drywall so that the structure is made of solid strips.

Therefore, you first need to cut the material for the sides.

The width of the stripes corresponds to the width of the face. Then measure the size of the remaining face and cut off the strip so that it goes to the edges of the side faces.

Drywall sheets are also fixed with metal screws at a distance of 15 - 20 cm.

When the installation of the drywall box is completed, its finishing begins. It is quite possible to make it yourself.

The coating can be painted, tiled, etc.

Ceiling or wall option

It is possible even for a novice builder to assemble a drywall box in a toilet, under a bath or in another room with their own hands of a ceiling or wall type.

To create ceiling structures, first markup is made for the drywall box on the ceiling.

At the location of the drywall structure, two parallel lines are drawn, passing to the walls (during installation ceiling option) or on the floor and ceiling (when mounting the wall version).

The distance between the lines corresponds to the width of the structure, and the lines perpendicular to them, which must be drawn on the walls, correspond to the height of the structure and indicate the attachment points of the corner elements.

The installation of the guide profile and the preparation of the corner elements are carried out similarly to the corner version.

Now 2 corner elements are made from the profile, which should be located in such a way that it is possible to install stiffeners.

Now the frame for the plasterboard box is being strengthened on the ceiling.

Reinforcement of the wall and ceiling frame is carried out in the same way as during installation corner option, with the only difference that the stiffeners are installed on three sides, at a distance of 60 cm.

The installation of the frame is completed - it is sheathed with drywall and its finishing begins.

It is possible to manufacture a drywall box on the ceiling with lighting. Assembly robots can be done by hand.

The backlit device is made as follows: first you need to make markings for the backlight and fix the electrical wires.

They must be mounted in such a way that they do not interfere with the installation of the device.

Then you need to prepare the transverse guides and insert into the frame. The guide profile is set to the wall at a right angle and fastened with self-tapping screws. Then the whole structure is fixed.

After installing a ceiling fixture with lighting, the ceiling looks like a multi-level one. The backlit device can be made over the entire area of ​​the ceiling or as a device in the form of geometric shapes.

When making the box, all wires must be hidden. After that, for illumination, it is necessary to make holes, having previously made markings on drywall.

The material, previously cut into strips, is screwed to the profile according to the markup, then lighting is carefully inserted into the holes.

After completing the installation of the illuminated ceiling box, drywall can be puttied, painted or decorated with decorative trim.

Installation Features

The device of the drywall box has several nuances that are recommended to be taken into account when doing the work with your own hands, so that this design does not cause inconvenience and lasts for many years.

For example, making a box to hide sewer pipe, it must be taken into account that the couplings with bends on the pipe, the so-called revisions, cannot be closed without leaving access to them.

For such couplings, it is necessary to leave a special opening during installation in order to provide access from the outside. Such a window is closed with special plastic doors.

You also need access to the joints internal sewerage and the central riser, as repairs may be required after some time.

When installing a drywall box under the bathtub to close the water supply or battery, there must be an opening at the locations of meters, valves, valves and other elements.

To make such an opening, you need to make holes 4 mm larger than the size of the door that will close the hole. This can be done both before installing the drywall battery box, and after.

If an opening is left to access the revision of the sewer riser in the bathroom or toilet, then it must be placed on the front side of the structure.

If the hatch is intended for access to valves or other elements of the water supply system, then it can be located on the side.

In the toilet or in the kitchen, in those places where pipelines pass through the structure, the hole must be made larger than the diameter of the pipe.

There should be a gap that can be filled with polyethylene foam.

Thus, the installation of the box will allow you to hide communications in the bathroom and toilet, align the walls and corners, hide the batteries in the kitchen, align the ceiling, and also make the ceiling illuminated.

All this can be done quickly, inexpensively and for many years.

After reading the article, you learned how to make a drywall box yourself.

Say what you like, but the engineering communications in the bathroom (water and sewer pipes) look, frankly, not quite aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, they are trying to hide them from view, camouflaged with various elements. There are many ways to mask pipes, but one is the most common at the present time. This is a drywall box for the bathroom.

The most surprising thing is that this design is simple, but at the same time exactly fits all the requirements for the elements of wet rooms - both in terms of moisture resistance, and in strength, and in appearance.

Box in the bathroom

Important!
Such a box must be built in such a way that access to all systems is provided for carrying out not only preventive work but also in emergency situations.
Therefore, it is necessary to think through everything before proceeding with the installation work.

Frame installation

A drywall bathroom box assumes the presence of a frame, which is made of metal profiles. If it is decided to close the vertically standing pipes, usually located in the corner of the room, with a box, then the frame structure will be three profiles forming an isosceles triangle in cross section.

Two of them will be attached to adjacent walls.

Layout and installation

A very important component in the construction of a frame for drywall is to carry out accurate measurements. To do this, measure the distance from the wall to the outer edge of the pipe. It is by this size that the elements of the frame will be exposed. Do not forget to measure the length of the pipes themselves for precise cutting of profiles.

First of all, profiles are installed that are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws. To do this, you will need a puncher and a screwdriver. But the third rack will have to be fastened with pieces of the profile to the first two racks. The design in this case is strong and rigid.

How to determine the location of the intermediate rack? To do this, perpendiculars are drawn from the installation site of two wall profiles. Their intersection is the place you need.

By the way, you can mount this rack:

  • to the walls themselves with the help of specially made corners;
  • to wall racks using profiles cut to a certain size.

In principle, both methods are good solutions. But most often, nevertheless, masters use the latter (photo below). He's easier.

Attention!
In the event that engineering communications are not located in the corner of the room, you will have to arrange a full-fledged box, consisting of three faces.
To do this, you will have to install two racks that are separate from the wall, which will be attached to the wall and between them with crossbars. The price of such a solution increases.

box frame

Related articles:
Drywall box

Drywall box for pipes

Sheathing the box with drywall

  • First, drywall panels are prepared, which are cut exactly to the size of the rectangular edges of the box. Please note that moisture resistant drywall must be used for bathrooms.
  • Secondly, the material cut into pieces is fixed at its destination with self-tapping screws.
  • After all this, finishing is done.

As you can see, nothing is difficult in this process no. But it was the technology of mounting a non-separable box for the bathroom. As mentioned above, it is necessary to provide a small inspection hole in the design of the drywall profile of this device, with which it would be easy to carry out inspection and maintenance work.

How can this be done so as not to disassemble the entire structure in case of emergency? Of course, you can install hinges on one of the racks, on which a small door is hung.

In order to make it, you will need a rectangular metal frame made of drywall profiles, sheathed with a piece of drywall. That is, you should get a full-fledged door. But to do all this is quite difficult.

There is an easier way. A piece of drywall sheet, cut exactly to size, is attached to the non-separable frame. Subsequently, the box itself will be lined with ceramic tiles. But the tile on the front of the box must be laid in such a way that it does not overlap the attachment points to the profiles, that is, self-tapping screws.

Frame installation scheme

What is it for? In case of emergency, the screws can be unscrewed and the front panel removed. But this option does not look very nice, because the fastener caps are visible.

Therefore, for decoration and for presenting a presentable appearance, the gaps left for fasteners are decorated with special strips (and become invisible).

Horizontal box cladding

In principle, this design is not much different from the vertical one in terms of complexity and production. The only thing that experts pay attention to is some additions.

For example,

  • The floor in the box should be slightly higher than the surface of the base of the floor of the room itself.
  • In the box, it is necessary to leave a small hole in the lower part (preferably not even one). If a leak appears in the pipelines, then water will first begin to seep through these holes. This will help prevent the troubles associated with flooding the neighbors of the lower floor.

Full box

  1. In the event that the box is installed on heating pipes, it is necessary to ensure the outflow of thermal energy through specially cut holes in the top panel.
  2. Before installing drywall panels, it is imperative that you chamfer the edges to ensure a high-quality finish of the joints.
  3. Before laying the tiles, the box must be treated with a primer.

door on the box

Conclusion on the topic

Now you thoroughly understand how to make a drywall box in the bathroom with your own hands. There is nothing difficult. And yet, many readers probably have questions that the video posted on this page will help answer. Let it become for you a kind of instruction for use. Happy repair!

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