Project of an extension to a timber frame house. Types of extensions to the house. Layout and foundation

The desire to increase your country house over time, it appears in almost every owner of a private house. And an excellent solution in this matter will be an extension to an existing house.

Begin construction works from drawing up a project, where it is necessary to clearly and clearly draw the plan of the planned object, think over the connection of all premises with the existing house, choose the type of structures, foundations and decide which ones Construction Materials will be used. Financial costs during construction will depend on the correct study of the design stage. It is also worth at this stage to decide on the nature of the use of this structure, namely, it will be seasonal or year-round, and also to decide what number of storeys the new structure will be.

There are several common types of outbuildings that can be classified by purpose.

Summer room (kitchen or veranda).

Such an extension is usually one-story and is used in the warm season. It is convenient for spending time together, family dinners, relaxation, etc. Of course, a light or shallow foundation is needed, preferably independent from the main building of the house.

Such a structure, as a rule, has pitched roof(Fig. 1, 2). As roofing material it is recommended to use metal or polycarbonate. In this case, it makes no sense to do thermal insulation, because the room will not be used in winter. It is worth noting that the minimum roof slope angle is 8 °, you cannot do less, otherwise leaks will appear after showers and snowfalls.

Living room and attic, if the extension is two-story (Fig. 3, 4).

In this case, a more thorough approach will be required for the construction of the foundation, the construction of capital walls and a roof, as well as the installation of waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, the supply of all engineering communications.

Particular attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the walls, roof and floor, given that the extension will be used in the cold season, and, accordingly, heating.

Before starting construction, you need to take into account the condition of the house. The conjugation of roofing and foundation structures will depend on this criterion. And it is worth considering that due to the difference in the magnitude of the load that the main structure and the extension will exert on the ground, it is highly likely that over time they will move relative to each other.

Another option for an extension to the house may be a separate structure, adjacent to the main, which quite often becomes the only possible

due to the fact that the old house may not withstand the reconstruction of the roof, and this will destroy the stability of the entire structure.

Also the extension may differ in the type of foundation... Usually, a separate foundation is arranged for the extension, which is connected to the base of the old house with the help of embedded fittings.

Of course more correct option- this is the common foundation that was laid during the construction phase of the house. However, this happens quite rarely, and therefore it is worth ensuring the maximum similarity of the foundations in terms of material and in depth.

The most constructive and competent solution may be a separate foundation for an extension. The most common in this regard today is the foundation on screw piles (Fig. 5, 6). After screwing into the ground, the piles are united by a single grillage by welding several metal channels or from a wooden bar. It turns out an independent and independent foundation, which will not be connected to the main house in any way, since the existing foundation can continue its downward movement, which can lead to deformation of the structure.

In this case, the minimum possible distance is observed between the two buildings, i.e. technological gap, which is filled with heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.

An extension to the house can be executed according to frame technology or from a wooden bar (Fig. 5, 6).

Frame technology the most acceptable, since it has a low weight and is the construction of a frame from a wooden bar and filling it with insulation. For example, it can be SIP-panels, representing in section a three-layer "pie" of two bearing surfaces (usually OSB), between which expanded polystyrene foam is pressed, where the thickness of the insulation can be different, so you can choose panels for any climatic region. In this case, cladding with additional materials will not be required, which will reduce the cost of construction.

It will be enough to paint the panels internally with varnish. It is also worth saying that an extension from a bar to wooden house can be of two types: three walls and a fourth carrier, which is already in the house, or three walls, which is the most reasonable in terms of material consumption. If you plan to stay in winter, then you should use a material with a cross-section of at least 150 x 150 or 200 x 200mm.

Such a bar is quite heavy, but it will also last longer. After the walls have been erected, the remaining cracks must be sealed, otherwise it will be very cold in the extension. This can be done with the help of modern heaters based on basalt wool or polyurethane foam.

The advantage of private real estate lies primarily in the fact that you can easily make an extension to a wooden house without problems and significant costs. For example, you can quickly and easily make an extension of 10-15 m², which serves as a veranda, a kitchen or a place for receiving guests. An addition to the main house must be done so that everything looks harmonious, and at the same time, it is comfortable and functional.

What to make an extension to a wooden house

Separately, it is worth paying attention to the materials from which the extension is made. If the house is wooden, then it is quite possible to supplement it with square meters of wood or even timber. So the general concept of the building will not be violated, and everything will seem more beautiful and comfortable. Wood allows not only to simplify the work on the product, but also to significantly save. The big plus of this material is that it is quite warm. However, for room use all year round still worth producing additional work for insulation.

In some cases, craftsmen choose a brick for work. This is a more expensive material, but it has its own advantages. First of all, bricks always keep heat well, therefore, minimum insulation work will be required. In addition, the maintenance of the extension will be simple, which favorably distinguishes this material from wood.

However, when an additional brick room is attached to a wooden house, it may not look very good. Therefore, you will have to choose between practicality and appearance. Or, as an option, you can then use external finishing materials of the same type throughout the house at once, including the attached room.

The extensions, which are made with your own hands from a bar, look very beautiful. It is a durable material that will last a long time if properly cared for. The exterior of the building itself is immediately transformed, and the house becomes like a fairytale hut. But the price of quality material of this type can be high.

The cheapest option is considered frame extension to a private house, made by hand. Such construction methods have been very popular lately. Manufacturers offer to build entire houses of 2-3 floors in a short time. As for the extension, its construction in this case will be inexpensive. Frame structures always require high-quality insulation and waterproofing. But still, they significantly outperform all other options in terms of price, speed of work and even outward appearance... The frame extension will look good next to a wooden house, and together with a brick house. This is a great option for budget-conscious owners.

Where to begin

Before making an extension to a brick house or any other with your own hands, you must first coordinate this with government organizations. Initially, project documents are drawn up, taking into account all the nuances, but this is not the end of the work with government agencies, since at the end of construction, the extension will need to be legally registered. All such issues are resolved in the administration of the settlement or in multifunctional centers.

You should not start work before all the nuances have been agreed upon. Otherwise, if something goes wrong, you will have to remove what has already been created, and this is troublesome and costly.

Next, you need to purchase the material, according to the planned estimate. It can be wood, timber, brick or stone. It should be borne in mind that the type of materials must meet all building requirements. If it is planned to be small, and it will not be loaded with a powerful roof, then you can take an ordinary tree. For capital buildings, you should still use a stone or brick.

Experts highly recommend on initial stage check all the nuances and consult with professional architects. This is especially true when heavy materials are planned to be used. Of course, the extension is not the second floor. However, even it can significantly load the main building. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to carefully check the serviceability of all components, the quality of the foundation and consult with specialists.

If the construction of an extension seems too hard work, you can entrust it to professionals. In this case, you can save not only time, but money. If you opt for a modern frame version, it will be both beautiful and cheap. And most importantly, such structures are very light, so they do not load the main building at all.

Those who decide to make an extension to their house with their own hands should take into account that improper actions will lead to the fact that the load on the structure will be too great. If the house is old, professional preliminary diagnostics are required. An insufficiently strong foundation can cause the destruction of the building completely, therefore, by creating an extension, the master runs the risk of being left without housing at all.

Extension construction technology

As for how to make an extension to the house, the main thing is not to damage the main house and get additional square meters... To do this, it is necessary to carry out high-quality preparatory work... They must be versatile, that is, every detail must be examined.

First of all, it is necessary to check the quality of the foundation, its depth and width. This will allow you to determine if the base will be able to withstand the additional load in the form of an extension.

In order to get a warm structure, its walls must be tightly adjacent to the main building. But this is only permissible if the building is well preserved. In addition, you need to immediately think about the options for movement, namely doors and aisles. It is quite possible that at the place where the extension to country house will be connected to the main building, you will have to make an additional arch under the door. Here it is necessary to clarify whether the wall will withstand it. Sometimes it happens that the walls look quite normal. But one has only to start diagnostics, as numerous shortcomings are revealed.

Roofs always have special requirements. It should be light enough and appropriate for the type of building. There are 2 options for how to properly make a roof in an extension to a house. In the first case, it can be a continuation of the main roof, and in the second, it can be a separate roof. Both methods have their pros and cons. If you make a solid roof, the whole structure will look beautiful and harmonious. But indoors there will be one drawback, namely a sloping roof or the need to build a small attic and additional insulation. A straight roof does not look very nice from the outside, but inside it will be more convenient option for further interior decoration.

Extensions, which will be made of wood, require special attention. This material differs in that it requires shrinkage. This process takes a certain amount of time, and sometimes it can take several years. Therefore, in the first years of use, the attached structure may settle and move away from the main wall. If it is initially fastened very tightly, then it can damage the main wall. So wooden frame the first time must be left. Only after it has settled, you can proceed to the design and strengthening of the extension made of wood.

As for the foundation for the extension, it of great importance does not have. If the main building is on a solid and high-quality foundation, then a pile foundation can also be used for the construction of an extension.

It is believed that making an extension to a wooden, brick or stone house is a very simple task. In fact, it is much easier than building a second floor. However, if certain requirements are not observed during the construction of an extension, this can have a very bad effect not only on the quality and functionality of the new building, but also spoil the existing building. Therefore, you should be extremely careful and attentive.

Simple extension to a wooden house

The complexity of the job always depends on the type of project. Some try to make the extension create additional space, but also become a decoration of the building. But such options are quite complex both in execution and in choosing the right materials. If there is no desire to face difficulties, you can make a simple extension with your own hands quickly and inexpensively.

The first step is to choose the optimal location for future construction. At this stage, you need to assess your financial capabilities, choose suitable materials, determine the size of the building and resolve the issue with permits.

Then you can proceed to the foundation. For a simple and light structure, there is no need to make a powerful base. Most often, masters refuse monolithic foundation and opt for a tape type or a columnar basis. For a small frame extension or veranda, this will be quite enough.

Before erecting walls, you need to take care of the arch for the door from the house. In order not to destroy part of the wall, it is recommended to make a passage in the place of an existing door or window.

After pouring the foundation and its full readiness, you can start working on the walls. The easiest way is to make extensions to wooden or brick houses from solid sheets. That is, the extension will be of frame type. It is advisable to place posts for fixing panels and further installation of the roof at a distance of about 1.5 m from each other, but no more. After their high-quality fixing, you can start tying the walls. The final stage will be the installation of the roof and the complete hermetic finishing of the premises.

Experts most often recommend a roof for extensions, which will be a continuation of the main roof. So the whole building will look more harmonious and attractive. The extension will no longer look like a build-up on the house, but will become a full-fledged part of it. If you use the same materials for decorating the facade as for the house, then everything will look very harmonious. But you should not rush with the exterior decoration. In addition, you need to wait a while before putting up windows and doors. The extension must be given time to stand and settle. Only then can further work be continued.

Building insulation

In order for the premises to be used at any time of the year, you need to know how to insulate the building. This is not difficult work, but it requires adherence to certain rules. First you need to choose a heater. The most popular materials are Isover, Izorok, URSA and Rockwood. They are all inexpensive and made of mineral wool. It will take about 70 rubles for 1 m² of the wall.

Most often, it is mineral wool that is used for insulation. It is laid under sheets of drywall, with which the walls and ceiling are then sheathed. But this is not the end of the insulation work. All the seams that will be between the sheets must be carefully sealed with putty. Only after that you can proceed to the further decoration of the walls, that is, to painting, wallpapering and other types of finishing work.

But in order for the room to be suitable for use in winter, it is also necessary to insulate all windows and doors. For this, special materials are used to keep a lot of heat in the house.

With the right approach and high-quality work done in a room attached with your own hands, you can live at any time of the year. From an ordinary summer veranda, it will turn into a full-fledged structure, where you can equip a living room with a fireplace or a room for another purpose. Insulation works for an extension with an area of ​​12 m² and a ceiling height of 3 m will cost about 10 thousand rubles.

Equip a technical room or an additional living room. Then the question arises for the owner of the house. What to do? A common option for expanding the area is to add an extension to the house with your own hands. It's cheaper than building a whole house. Allows you to avoid credit loans for years, which not everyone can do. In general, it may not come out very expensive. This refers only to the construction itself. A house that is overgrown with properly executed extensions becomes more comfortable and beautiful.

Organizational moments

Terrace attached to the house

Even at the stage of thinking about construction, you already need to be prepared for the fact that when the moment comes to legalize a new structure, you will have to face difficulties. From the organizational and technical point of view, this is all considered more complicated. If the main building has already been completed and put into operation, then self-construction can lead to its accident rate.

Registration for the price will not be cheap. The type and design of the extension will be taken into account. New results will be required for the operation of all housing. But difficult doesn't mean impossible.

For registration you will need:

1. Soil surveys at the construction site. The pleasure is not cheap. This is necessary to guarantee the reliability of the new structure, which in turn is important for the integrity of the old house.
2. Checking existing housing
3. Get a building permit from your neighbors
4. Extension project, developed independently or custom-made by specialists
5. Approve the project with a licensed construction company, firefighters, SES, electricians, utilities. Columns 1, 2, 4 by order in a construction company are solved faster, and at a price they are cheaper
6. Obtain building permission from architects. Here you can also combine columns 1, 2, 4, 5 by ordering a "project by key" or "project with binding"
7. Upon completion of construction acceptance of the building by the permitting authorities
8. Renew all contracts with utilities for a new area
9. Re-register the new area with the tax office, cadastre

If everything is done correctly, then the specialists of licensed firms often do not harm and quickly draw up all the documents.

Basic requirements for construction

The project of the future extension must be well planned initially, so as not to lead to additional alterations later. It is necessary to think over all the points in advance. Each structure has its own construction conditions.

For a living room, all structures must have good insulation. Otherwise, the heating carried out will not make sense. It is also very important to prevent dampness in the room. Reliable waterproofing is a guarantee of normal operation of the premises, making it reliable and durable. The presence of natural light is also important.

Glazed veranda

For the kitchen and bathroom, engineering communications are provided in advance. This is best done before pouring the foundation. Special attention you need to pay attention to the insulation of the structure and good waterproofing of the floor.

The main function of the veranda is to protect the entrance to the main building from bad weather. People rest here in summer. No need to insulate. Waterproofing the foundation is very important. The structure can be in the form of a regular flooring, with low walls and a roof raised on pillars. Also, verandas are being built, enclosed by walls, with a door and one or more windows.

Where to start?

With any construction, they begin with preparatory work. The site is thoroughly cleared of debris and everything necessary for construction is prepared.

Without fail, a drainage system is needed under the structure. For this, the earth is compacted, and a slope is made at this place to drain the water.

Foundation

The base for the construction of a structure is tape and columnar. Each has its own qualities. To select the most suitable one, you must first study each one.

Strip foundation

Strip foundation

This framework is performed in the following order:

• The rope is used for marking and tracing of the construction site. It is pulled and fixed. According to this outline, a trench is dug to the depth of the base of the main building and is 10-15 cm wider than the wall.
• The bottom of the trench is covered with a 10-12 cm layer of sand. All this is carefully compacted. Next comes crushed stone, which also needs to be compacted. The use of broken bricks is allowed
• The next step is to lay a waterproofing film along the trench. It extends 40-50 cm above the ground. It closes the foundation from the inside, and the formwork above the ground. Then the reinforcement is fixed. Its design in shape should be a repetition of the foundation to the full height.
• The concrete slurry should be composed of cement and gravel. 1/3 of the trench height is poured with it. This layer should be completely cured. Next comes another layer of concrete. It will fill half of the remaining height
• Having installed the formwork, they form a plinth. The waterproofing remains in the formwork, spread out along its walls and fixed from above. The film must not slide into the concrete. The formwork is completely filled with concrete. The solution must be pierced with a shovel so that there are no air pockets inside. The formwork is also lightly tapped so that the resulting vibration compacts the concrete solution well.
• Upon completion of pouring, the concrete is leveled and left to dry completely. It is sprinkled with water every day. This makes it more durable. When it hardens, the formwork is removed
• It is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or materials in rolls. These are liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing material. After that, they start to build the walls
• The inner space of this foundation is equipped with different options... For example, using a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and logs, with the installation of a wooden floor in the future

Column foundation

Column foundation

This type of foundation is built from brick or concrete. Possibly both materials. This basis is used for the construction of verandas and living rooms, with planning in the future installation of boardwalk.

The foundation is performed in the following order:

• First, the marking of the selected site for construction is also applied.
• The posts should be placed 1.5 m apart. For them, pits 50x50 cm in size and 50-60 cm in depth are dug.The dimensions of the pit at the top expand by about 10 cm on each side
• Further, the bottom of the pits is strengthened with sand and gravel. Waterproofing is being installed
• A layer of cement mortar is poured under the brick supports. It should freeze completely. After that, brickwork is done.
• For concrete pillars, reinforcement and formwork are installed in the pit to the height of the future pillar. Waterproofing film laid inside the formwork and fixed from above
• The formwork is filled with concrete mortar in layers, each of which is allowed to dry
• The top of the pillar is leveled and sprayed every day with water until the concrete is completely solidified.
• After that, the formwork is removed. With the help of warm bitumen mastic, the pillars are pasted over with roofing material
• The void around the pillars is covered with earth and gravel. Every 10-15 cm it must be compacted
• Roofing material is laid on the pillars in several layers. This will be the waterproofing protection of the wooden blocks. They will be installed from above

Floor bases

Wood and concrete floors are laid on the strip foundation. The tree is also installed for columnar foundations without lintels.

Concrete base

Concrete base

For the reliability and warmth of the floor screed on the strip foundation, work is carried out in stages according to a certain technology:

• At the beginning, the earth is removed from the foundation. It is loosened and removed. The depth of the pit should be approximately 25-35 cm
• The bottom is filled with 10 cm of sand. It compresses well. Then crushed stone or expanded clay is laid in 15-20 cm.The second material makes the screed warm
• They level everything well and lay the reinforcing grid. A system of beacons is installed on it along a horizontal level. Some rooms require a surface slope. For example, in the bathroom or on outdoor terrace, the water from the floor must flow freely to the drainage system
• In the next step, cement is poured and leveled. After a day, it is recommended to cover it with plastic wrap. This will make it more uniform, more durable.
• When the structure is ready, you can lay on the concrete base flooring or wood floor

Base from wooden beams

Base from wooden beams

• To keep the floors strong, choose high-quality crossbars.
• Wooden bars, 15x10 cm thick in cross-section, are placed on the foundation, on a roofing material substrate.
• They are attached to concrete using through joints or corners.
• The beams are also fastened to each other with powerful corners. All of this will hold on securely.

Materials for walls

Any materials for the construction of an additional outbuilding are used. The walls are erected brick, frame, from foam blocks. The main thing is that all this has a good combination with the main house.

It will not be difficult to repeat the exterior decoration of the house. Wood, for example, goes well with all materials and looks good without additional processing.

Frame walls

The construction of a frame structure is a good option:

• construction is fast, in a matter of months
• due to the ease of construction, no capital foundation is required
• you can do it yourself
• at an inexpensive price

The basics of the house and self-construction are done at the same level. Accession should not be capital, because the annex will drop down after a while. An expansion joint is made. Frame structures do not shrink vertically, which is very attractive.

The frame for the walls is made of timber and is attached to the pre-assembled wreath beams. The bars can be fastened separately. But it will be easier to assemble all the parts together with special fasteners, and then install them as an assembly.

To connect the frame to the main building, vertical markings are made. Precision must be observed here. After installation, to make the frame stronger, it is immediately knocked off.

The upper beam along the house is attached to the main wall with anchor bolts. Insulate the walls after installing the roof.

Brick walls

For brick walls a perfectly flat foundation surface is required. Everything is checked. If there are any irregularities, they need to be corrected. Otherwise, this will lead to cracking between the bricks during shrinkage of the self-construction.

For the most part, brick structures are attached to the house from the same material. They tie it with a metal frame, which is placed in the prepared holes. They are made in main wall 2/3 depth. Repeat every 2-3 rows. The fittings should protrude from the wall by at least half a meter and be in the seams of the masonry. It is important to take thin rods. Otherwise, the seams in this place will be very wide. Or you will have to make a recess in the bricks for reinforcement.

The brick extension is also attached to the tree with a frame. It fits through drilled holes. Transverse stoppers are made on the reinforcement. They will keep them in the wall.

To follow the rows horizontally, you need to pull the cord along the future wall. A plumb line is used to check the vertical.

The wall thickness will depend on the functionality of the attached structure. For a living room, brick is laid in 1-2 layers. A layer of half a brick will be enough for a terrace or outbuilding.

Upon completion, the brick walls are girded with concrete from above. For this, a form is installed in which the reinforcement is placed. All this is being concreted. When the mortar has hardened, the mold is removed and the roof is installed.

Brick walls are not easy to lay out, as it might seem. This requires experience. The best option will entrust the work to a professional. Or make walls from a different material.

Walls from foam blocks

Foam concrete has its own distinctive qualities among building materials:

• No special skills are required to work. Construction is possible on difficult ground
• Due to the fact that the blocks are large and lightweight, it takes less time and effort to assemble, compared to laying bricks or timber
• The material is durable, environmentally friendly, non-flammable and passes all standards fire safety... It also has low thermal conductivity and breathes well, which creates an optimal indoor climate.
• Inexpensive, easy to assemble and flexible to drill
• An extension made of foam blocks practically does not shrink and has a rather long service life.

• Additional protection is required as material is losing soon thermal insulation due to its high hygroscopicity
• Not good beautiful view... Therefore, external finishing will be required.

A foam concrete construction requires a strict sequence of stages:

• It is necessary to start laying from the corner points.
• The blocks are moistened underneath to increase traction. The initial row is covered with several layers of protection against capillary moisture
• The build quality is influenced by the horizontal and vertical position of the first row. Therefore, strict adherence to all rules is required. Horizontal irregularities are corrected with mortar
• An adhesive composition is used between the masonry. Connections are obtained no more than 1 mm, which minimizes their space, in other words, "cold bridges"
• The composition is prepared strictly following the rules. It is applied to the top and sides of the blocks. Each brick is aligned horizontally and vertically
• The horizontal level of each row is leveled with a sanding float. The debris that forms must be carefully swept away
• The corners and every 5 rows are reinforced with rods that will tie the structure and prevent cracking. For this, cuts are made with a circular saw 3 cm wide and 5 cm deep. Then the grooves are knocked out with a hammer and chisel. They need to be cleaned. Welded rods are laid in the middle of the recesses and filled with adhesive

For window and doorways install jumpers no more than 1.75 m wide. They are made using formwork - removable or non-removable. The strength of foam concrete is not designed for large openings. It is better then to choose a cinder block or sand-lime brick. This is a more reliable basis. The height of the lintel will depend on the thickness of the future floor.

For a removable mold, first weld metal constructions the right size. On the sides of the opening, bars are nailed for support, a form is set on them. Shields are attached to the sides. Foam blocks are cut into narrow blocks. They equip the form from the inside. As a result, you get a semblance of a trough.

The reinforcement frame is placed so that the side with a large number of rods is at the bottom. All this is secured with spacers. Then the blocks are moistened, filled with concrete around the perimeter of the walls and compacted. The poured concrete is leveled to the level of the blocks in the formwork and smoothed well.

With a non-removable form, useU-shaped blocks. Installation of the form itself is not required. It takes less time to work.

To lay such blocks, you need:

• Install the block with the cut out support on the sides of the opening. Next, check the horizontal position of the supports along the hose level. Correct any irregularities with a sanding float.
• The U-block is installed on the glue with the hole up. After that, a structure of reinforcement is placed, so that at the bottom there is a large number of twigs. It is secured with spacers
• The block is moistened. Concrete layers are laid on top. They are carefully compacted with a trowel.

It is very important to install a reinforced belt on the building. This will make it resistant to different types deformation, wind loads, will increase the carrying capacity. The reinforced belt is insanely heavy. They do it right on the walls.

When the walls have already been erected, they begin to work on the ceiling. For this, crossbars are used. They are installed on the walls 60-70 cm apart. They are attached with special corners.

When installing the crossbars on brick extension, they are embedded in a concrete belt. The sides of the beams are wrapped in roofing material. Then all this is hemmed with boards or thick plywood. Insulation material is inserted between the hem and the crossbeams.

Roofs are varied in appearance. Basically, they choose a lean-to view. It consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. There is nothing difficult in the installation. The main thing is not to be mistaken with the slope angle so that winter precipitation cannot remain on the roof. Otherwise, it will be damaged.

Next, they put marks in the form of a horizontal flat line on the wall or front side of the roof. A bar is fixed along this line to support the support at the top. The base at the bottom will be the beams or the edge of the wall. In order to protect the walls from precipitation as much as possible, the rafters are released beyond the edges of the walls by 25-30 cm. They are also strengthened with the help of metal corners.

The problem of roof slope is more difficult to solve when they are attached from the side where the slope of the main building is arranged. There is nothing to fix the crossbar on. For this, a little roof is removed from the roof of the housing, and it is attached to its beams rafter system... Then the total coverage is combined.

It is advisable to know initially what material will be on top. For soft roofs or shingles, plywood or lattice structures are placed on the rafters. Roofing iron, metal tiles, slate and other large canvases are overlapped on the rafters.

Waterproofing is imperative. It is covered with plywood or fixed to the rafters. Next, the top cover is spread.

To unite the roofs, at the junction, the upper row of the self-built roof is placed under the lower row of the slope of the house. If the roof of the upper part of the roof is bordered by the wall or the front of the roof, the joint seam is necessarily covered with waterproofing. When the roof is ready, they start to work to insulate the structure inside.

The room in which it is supposed to live needs good thermal insulation. The ceiling is sheathed and well insulated. After that, they begin to deal with the floors.

On the installed crossbeams on a columnar foundation, transverse lags of smaller bars are fixed. A rough floor is arranged on them. For this, the boards are placed with a continuous flooring. This will keep the heat from leaving the house. After the rough floor is coated with a thick solution of clay. It should dry well. Then a vapor barrier film is laid on it.

Insulating material is laid between the logs. It can be mineral wool, expanded clay or slag. Then they cover it with another layer of vapor barrier, and plywood is laid. Then any floor material can be laid.

Concrete can be insulated in the following ways:

1. Minvata is laid between the lags, which are fixed to a concrete base. All this is covered with boards or plywood
2. Through the "warm floor" system. It is installed on a fine screed
3. An infrared film is placed on a special reflective substrate, and then covered with a decorative coating
4. With dry screed and gypsum fiber boards

When everything is finished with the floors, they begin to insulate the walls. Minvata is the most common material. It is produced in mats, which makes the work easy and takes little time.

On the frame walls cotton wool is placed between the frame bars and covered with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the bars with brackets. Further, the walls are covered with a variety of options. For example, natural wooden clapboard, plywood, drywall.

Expanded polystyrene is also used for insulation of premises. But in terms of quality, it is worse.

Brick walls are usually insulated from the outside. The inside is covered with plaster or drywall. But, if there is a lot of space, you can also insulate it with mineral wool, and close it on top with plasterboard plates. Then wallpaper or some other material is glued on.

If you carefully study all stages of the construction of an additional structure and follow the developed technologies, everything will turn out correctly and efficiently. If you are unsure of your capabilities and feel a lack of skill and experience in construction, you can entrust the work to professionals.

Video: Building an extension to the house from A to Z

Design

Material costs

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How to create a frame extension to a house, the reliability of the construction of the foundation, walls, floor and roof. Stages of work, advice on insulation. Extension types.

Over time, the living area gets used to it and you want to expand it, for this case you will need a frame extension to the house, which will be an excellent solution. So that all the pitfalls do not bring problems, it is described in detail below what the extension is intended for. How to choose the right base, features of creating a strip and columnar foundation. What to choose wood or concrete for the floor, how the walls and frame are erected. How is a reliable overlap and roofing. What is the literacy of floor and wall insulation.

What is the technological feature of the extension, what are the ways to install a frame extension to wooden floor... Stage of construction frame house do it yourself. How to create a construction project, how an additional living room, kitchen or bath is being built, features of installing a veranda.

How to choose a frame extension to a wooden house, fastening to a wooden structure, the importance of finishing. What materials and tools are used, how the site is planned, how to choose the material for the floor: concrete or wood.

The purpose of the extension

When, for various reasons, it becomes necessary to expand the living space of a private house, then the most economical and technologically simple option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with minimal skill in working with carpentry tools. A step-by-step instruction on the stages of construction will help you make a useful and beautiful extension that will last for many years.

So that the extension does not later have to be transformed, even at the planning stage, you should consider the nuances of the design.

First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

1. Additional room. Building an extra room is tantamount to building a small house. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise heating such a room will be ineffective due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
2. Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the installation of utilities before starting the construction of the foundation. Places of passage of plumbing or sewer pipes it is necessary to insulate well through the foundation. It is easier and cheaper to do it during the construction phase.
3. Veranda is an easy extension to an open or glazed house. Used for summer vacations. The building is not heated, so the construction is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.

We select the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to the different weight of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation, erected on a soil prone to heaving, will "lead", and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls, under weight brickwork shrinkage is inevitable.

For construction use different materials: concrete, brick, stone, piles of wood, metal or concrete.

It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

• tape;
• slab;
• columnar;
• pile;
• pile-grillage.

In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let's consider in more detail step by step instructions arrangement of foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a tape type of base is chosen. It is advisable to make it out of concrete in the following sequence.

1. With the help of twine and pegs, markings are made along which a trench will be dug.
2. The soil is chosen to the depth of the basement of the house. Sand is poured at the bottom, tamped. A layer of crushed stone is laid on top, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
3. Formwork is prepared equal to the height of the future foundation. Lay the waterproofing inside along the perimeter and install welded fittings on the crushed stone layer.
4. A concrete solution is prepared in a ratio of 1: 3: 6 (cement, sand, crushed stone).
5. Pour the finished mixture into 1/3 of the formwork. After solidification, the remaining height is filled. The solution is compacted with a vibrator to remove air bubbles. Or knock with a hammer on the walls of the formwork.
6. The upper part is leveled. Cover with foil. While the mortar is gaining strength, the surface is periodically wetted to prevent cracking.

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Filimonov Evgeniy

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Important. Before erecting walls, waterproofing must be applied to the foundation. Use roll materials or mastic.

Column foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to erect a columnar base, which is erected from brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or they combine these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the ground. The step between the posts is about 60 cm.

Sequence of work:

• dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured at the bottom and carefully tamped;
• a layer of concrete mortar is laid, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use a level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
• a concrete support is made in the same way as a strip type of foundation: the inner part of the formwork is wrapped with waterproofing and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Moisten the concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;
• after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pillar, covered with several layers of roofing material on top - the material will protect wooden bar floors from getting wet;
• the remaining voids are filled with backfilling: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, it is tamped every 15 cm of the layer.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is arranged on the strip type of foundation. The base on the pillars is deliberately calculated for arranging a wooden floor.

Let's consider both technologies:

1. Concrete. Inside the foundation, soil is selected to a depth of 35 cm. They equip a sand cushion, tamp it well. Then you can fill it with rubble, but expanded clay is used to insulate the screed. A 20 cm layer is enough. A reinforcing lattice is laid on top. With the help of the level, beacons are set up, along which the cement screed is poured in the future. Tiles or wood flooring are laid on top.
2. The wooden floor is equipped with floor beams, which are laid on the base over the waterproofing. The beam with the foundation is connected with through fasteners, anchors or self-tapping screws. In the corners, they are connected with a straight lock and additionally fixed with corners. Next, the logs are mounted, the insulation is laid and the floor covering is laid.

Erection of the frame and walls

Wall structures are erected from a bar, fastening strapping to the previously assembled crown beams. The elements of the walls are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall shield is mounted in a vertical position, or each beam is connected to the beam in series.

Step-by-step instruction:

• On the lower beams of the harness, every 50 cm, make a cut for the uprights.
• Mount the racks by fixing them with corners and self-tapping screws.
• Assemble the top harness.
• The veranda is mated with the house by attaching a vertical bar to the wall.
• Fix all posts adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
• It is better to immediately sheathe the finished "skeleton" of the veranda from the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will stiffen the structure.
• After the roof has been erected and insulated, insert the windows and doors.

Overlap and roof

The pitched roof type is compatible with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. We will consider it.

1. The rafters are installed with one end under the slope of the roof of the house, and with the other they are supported on the wall of the veranda. Fixed with metal corners. The main thing is to choose the exact angle of inclination.
2. The rafter legs should protrude at least 30 cm beyond the wall boundary. Such a roof overhang will protect the veranda walls from precipitation.
3. The issue of roofing is decided in advance. Usually the material that covers the house is chosen. Under soft roof solid material is laid on the rafters: plywood, OSB sheets or frequent crate. Slate or metal tiles are laid on the rafters if the joists are installed with a small step.
4. The structure is covered with waterproofing, which is selected individually for the coating material.
5. Roofing starts from the bottom of the rafter.
6. For insulation, mineral wool is used, which is laid between the rafters. Sew up the ceiling with boards or panels and decorate.

Insulation of walls and floors

Mineral wool is used as an insulating material for the walls. The mats are easy and quick to fit between the frame bars, as you can see in the photo. When laying the insulation in several layers, the mats are displaced relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the joint seams.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask an expert

Insulation on both sides is covered with steam and wind insulation material, which will protect the material from moisture accumulation, and sheathed on top finishing material.

Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, drywall and covered with wallpaper or clapboard. For outer wall use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the home.

A wall cake towards the outside wall looks like this:

• inner lining;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation material;
• wind insulation;
• external cladding.

Floor on wooden logs they are insulated in the same way as the walls: mineral wool is laid on the rough floor between the logs, having previously covered the boards with a waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, and then leveled with plywood. After that, the finishing flooring is mounted.

A concrete floor can be insulated in the same way as a wooden floor, a dry screed can be applied, a concrete screed can be made, and water or electric heating can be installed.

DIYers often overlook the need to comply with safety requirements. Use personal protective equipment and a well-oiled reliable tool, and then you will have only the warmest memories of the construction of the extension.

When, for various reasons, it becomes necessary to expand the living space of a private house, then the most economical and technologically simple option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with minimal skill in working with carpentry tools. A step-by-step instruction on the stages of construction with photographs will help you make a useful and beautiful extension, like in the video, which will last for many years.

So that the extension does not later have to be transformed, even at the planning stage, you should consider the nuances of the design. First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

Due to the extension, you can expand the area of ​​the house

1. Additional room. Building an extra room is tantamount to building a small house. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise heating such a room will be ineffective due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
2. Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the installation of utilities before starting the construction of the foundation. Places where water or sewer pipes pass through the foundation must be well insulated. It is easier and cheaper to do it during the construction phase.
3. The veranda is an easy extension to an open or glazed house. Used for summer vacations. The building is not heated, so the construction is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.

We select the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to the different weight of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation, erected on a soil prone to heaving, will "lead", and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls; shrinkage is inevitable under the weight of the brickwork.

Column brick foundation

For construction, different materials are used: concrete, brick, stone, piles of wood, metal or concrete. It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

• tape;
• slab;
• columnar;
• pile;
• pile-grillage.

In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let's take a closer look at the step-by-step instructions for arranging foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a tape type of base is chosen. It is advisable to make it out of concrete in the following sequence.

Important. Before erecting walls, waterproofing must be applied to the foundation. Use roll materials or mastic.

Column foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to erect a columnar base, which is erected from brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or they combine these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the ground. The step between the posts is about 60 cm. The sequence of work:

• dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured at the bottom and carefully tamped;
• a layer of concrete mortar is laid, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use a level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
• a concrete support is made in the same way as a strip type of foundation: the inner part of the formwork is wrapped with waterproofing and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Moisten the concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;

For the veranda, a columnar foundation is enough.

• after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pillar, covered with several layers of roofing material on top - the material will protect the wooden floor beam from getting wet;
• the remaining voids are filled with backfilling: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, it is tamped every 15 cm of the layer.

Important. The height of the foundation pillars is calculated in such a way that the distance to the finished floor of the extension is 30 cm.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is arranged on the strip type of foundation. The base on the pillars is deliberately calculated for arranging a wooden floor. Let's take a look at both technologies.

Erection of the frame and walls

Wall structures are erected from a bar, fastening strapping to the previously assembled crown beams. The elements of the walls are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall shield is mounted in a vertical position, or each beam is connected to the beam in series. Step-by-step instruction:

• On the lower beams of the harness, every 50 cm, make a cut for the uprights.
• Mount the racks by fixing them with corners and self-tapping screws.
• Assemble the top harness.

Frame erection

• The veranda is mated with the house by attaching a vertical bar to the wall.
• Fix all posts adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
• It is better to immediately sheathe the finished "skeleton" of the veranda from the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will stiffen the structure.
• After the roof has been erected and insulated, insert the windows and doors.

Overlap and roof

The pitched roof type is compatible with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. We will consider it.

Insulation of walls and floors

Mineral wool is used as an insulating material for the walls. The mats are easy and quick to fit between the frame bars, as you can see in the photo. When laying the insulation in several layers, the mats are displaced relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the joint seams. Insulation on both sides is covered with steam and wind insulation material, which will protect the material from moisture accumulation, and sheathed with finishing material on top. Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, drywall and covered with wallpaper or clapboard. For the exterior wall, use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the house.

The floor on wooden logs is insulated in the same way as the walls: mineral wool is laid on the rough floor between the logs, having previously covered the boards with a waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, and then leveled with plywood. After that, the finishing flooring is mounted.

A concrete floor can be insulated in the same way as a wooden floor, a dry screed can be applied, a concrete screed can be made, and water or electric heating can be installed.

DIYers often overlook the need to comply with safety requirements. Use personal protective equipment and a well-oiled reliable tool, and then you will have only the warmest memories of the construction of the extension.

Frame extension on piles: video