Marking and installation of brackets for air conditioning. Self-installation of the air conditioner. Laying a communication line

Translated from English, the word split means "crack", but there are other, less common translations, namely "separation". This article describes the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, and specifically a split system, which consists of divided blocks. Since the installation of the air conditioning system itself is quite an expensive undertaking, it will be useful to learn how you can install it yourself.

Installing an air conditioning system is no easy task. In order to connect everything correctly, you need to know how it all works:

- through the spinneret (nozzle in the form of a narrow hole) into the evaporator chamber under pressure, a rapidly boiling liquid is poured, used to cool the air - this is a refrigerant. In the chamber, the liquid expands, boils, evaporates and thereby consumes a large number of warm air.

— water condensate settles on the evaporator heater during operation. It flows into a special reservoir, from which it exits (to the street) through a drainage tube.

- The compressor, like a vacuum pump, constantly pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. From high pressure the temperature of the refrigerant rises to such an extent that it goes into a supercritical state similar to a very dense fog.

- then the refrigerant passes into the condensation chamber, in which there is a heater blown by a fan. Under cold air, the temperature of the refrigerant changes critically again, this time it cools and turns into a liquid.

- liquid refrigerant through the nozzle again enters the evaporator and the cycle is constantly repeated.

What helps and what hinders the operation of the air conditioner

In order for the split system to function properly and at the same time save energy during installation, it is important to fulfill the following conditions:

- prevent the penetration of warm air into the equipment - when cold and hot zones come into contact, electricity consumption increases greatly. In this situation, the compressor is forced to distill the heat inside the system, and this is an additional cost.

- observe the tightness of the system - due to its depressurization, rapidly boiling liquids can simply evaporate. This can happen even through the smallest hole.

- the external unit must be placed lower than the internal one - this will create a thermosiphon effect (warm liquid rises), which makes the compressor work easier. If this is not done, then an excessive consumption of electricity will be inevitable, since the liquid will rise, overcoming the reverse thermosiphon effect.

- the outdoor unit must be located in a cool place, in the shade - additional heating from the outside increases the power consumption for cooling the system.

- the drainage tube should not be allowed to bend upwards, since such convolutions are instantly populated by microbes and mold, and as a result become a source of infection.

What is an air split

A split system differs from a household, conventional air conditioner in that it consists of separated blocks. One of them is external, the compressor works in it, and condensate is also collected. The second block is internal, in which the thermostatic fluid evaporates. Many modern split systems not only cool the air in the room, but also heat it up to the required temperature. When the air is heated, the cycle works in reverse, and the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit, while evaporation occurs in the outdoor unit. For this reason, in general, blocks are simply referred to as external (external) and internal.

It also happens that several internal ones work with one external unit. At the same time, they can work separately, and cool and heat the air. But this is found only in expensive models of split systems. Such air conditioning systems, although expensive, in the process of work are more economical than their cheaper counterparts. This is because in such a situation, the heat exchange inside the room does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner to work.

When to install the air conditioner

The installation of a split system in the house will be better done during the repair period. There is a lot of work to be done on the replacement and installation of electrical wiring. It is good that the wall decoration has not yet been completed before the installation begins. Otherwise, there will be costs associated with re-finishing the interior.

Required Tools

In order for the installation of the split system to pass without delay, and after a few days the equipment does not fail, it is necessary to use high-quality tools when working. For installation you will need:

- a puncher with a set of chisels - you have to make holes in the wall with a diameter of up to 10 centimeters.

- rebar finder (if the wall is made of reinforced concrete) - if the perforator gets into the rebar, then the hole will have to be punched again.

- pipe cutter - only they need to cut the pipes. If you cut the refrigerant pipes with a simple hacksaw, then there will definitely be particles of metal chips around the edges, which will lead to a compressor malfunction.

- a set for expanding tubes - if you try to bend the edges of the tube with improvised tools, you will not be able to achieve complete symmetry.

- scraper - a tool that is used to clean the ends of the tubes. A file is not suitable for this purpose because of the danger of small particles getting inside the compressor.

— hand pump(bicycle) - it is useful for checking the system for leaks.

- vacuum pump - used to create a vacuum system before filling it. Many experts advise to simply flush with refrigerant, but this does not remove residual moisture, and as a result, the compressor can be damaged, similar to the situation with metal chips.

- phase indicator and tester - these devices will be useful when replacing wiring.

- manometer.

- pipeline.

Selecting the required tubes

For security best solution will purchase a whole bay of copper tubing. This is justified, since small chips may remain in the cut tube, which, during operation, can disable the compressor. In addition, it is necessary to ensure that there is factory flaring on the edges of the tube, and that there are no cracks, creases or other defects on the tube. With a long piping, the outdoor unit can be lowered much lower than the indoor unit. In this case, the excess consumption of material will quickly pay off, since the resulting effect of the thermosiphon will reduce the cost of energy consumption of the equipment.

Cutting, cleaning and shaping tubes

Before starting the installation of the air conditioner, it is necessary to make a test flaring, scraping and cutting the tube. A special tool is used for flaring; before work, you need to carefully examine and study its device, possible defects during use, and know what the end result looks like. When buying a whole bay, it is best to purchase a small piece for trial work, since it is not recommended to cut the bay for this purpose. Cutting the tube is done with a circular motion of the pipe cutter. Next, you need to make a scraping, in which the tube should be end down so that the trimmings of the tube do not fall into the lumen and inside.

Mounting the outdoor unit

Independent installation of an air conditioner in an apartment on floors above the second, namely the external unit, is considered life-threatening and impractical. On the upper floors, installation can be done only if there is a balcony or loggias. The outdoor unit is easily and conveniently installed on the balcony on small and shallow brackets. Balcony in general comfortable spot for installing an air conditioner, because it has a north or east side, which are just perfect for installation. But in the south, installing a split system is not so terrible, since a roof or a canopy will protect the external unit from overheating under the scorching sun even on the hottest day. It is on such a day that the air conditioner is very important.

Before installing the brackets, it is necessary to remove the glass for the installation period, and drive the holders into the lower part of the frame. In order not to spoil the sheathing of the loggia, you can bend the “roots” of the holders in the form of the letters “P” located horizontally.

Split system installation

Professional installation of a split system in the house takes place in a strict sequence:

- choice of location for the indoor unit,
- installation and replacement electrical wiring,
- installation of the external unit,
- making a hole in the wall for pipes,
- pipeline laying,
– electrical installation of connections in blocks,
- Air conditioner leak test
- evacuation of the system,
- filling the system,
- power connection,
- test run sleeps system,
- isolation of interblock harnesses,
- capital sealing of holes,
- Pleasant use.

Some of the important stages of installing a split system are discussed in more detail below.

Selecting the location of indoor units

There are a number of places where the indoor unit of a split system cannot be installed:

- above heating appliances;

- where there is no air access - behind curtains, partitions, screens and other seemingly insignificant obstacles;

- in rooms where there is equipment that causes electrical interference: workshops with power tools, kitchens with induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens. If this is neglected, then the processor unit will fail from radiation.

Attention! Air conditioning is not installed in the kitchen. Cooling of the air and the influx of new air is due to the house's own general ventilation.

Wiring Features

The power of the smallest air conditioner is 1.5 kW. For this reason, for the air conditioning system, it is simply necessary to lay a separate cable with a cable thickness of at least 2.5 square meters. mm. In addition, it is important to install an automatic machine that can turn off the electricity in case of an overload.

When connecting the wires to the power shield, you need to connect the yellow wire with a green stripe along its entire length to N (neutral wire). Using the phase indicator, you need to determine the phase and zero.

How to drill holes in a wall

It is important to correctly determine the position of the reinforcement in the wall. In the event that there was a hit in the armature, nothing can be done. You will have to drill a new hole. Damage to the reinforcement is unacceptable, as this is contrary to building codes. In addition to the described situation, there is another point. This stage will require a second person who will warn people passing below about the possible fall of pieces of concrete or brick. This cannot be ignored, because if a random piece falls on a person, then the consequences can be very serious, up to imprisonment.

The hole must be made with a diameter of more than 80 mm. The advices encountered about 50-60 mm most likely do not take into account thermal insulation.

Tubing installation

First you need to cut the tube of the required length with a margin of about one meter. Then you can start bending the pipeline. This is done very carefully so that there is no break or wrinkles. The bend of the tube must correspond to a radius of 100 mm or more. If wrinkles occur, they will create unnecessary resistance to the coolant and increase energy consumption as a result.

The next step is the thermal insulation of the tube. To do this, a hose made of polyurethane foam (flex) is put on it. It makes no sense to use other heaters, since they are short-lived and will become unusable after a season.

After that, it is necessary to put flanges on the tubes with threads to the ends of the tube and make flaring.

Next, we alternately connect the tubes to the existing fittings. At this stage, you need to be careful not to connect the cold fitting of the indoor unit to the hot fitting of the outdoor unit. Sometimes cold and hot fittings have different diameters.

The nuts on the fittings must be securely tightened, but not too tight, because the nuts will need to be tightened when sealing.

Part of a reinforced plastic tube can be used as drainage. It is connected to a waste pipe or a threaded nut. A piece of heat shrink tubing can also help. It is easily heated with a soldering iron, slightly touching the tube with a sting.

How to connect the air conditioner to the mains

To connect the blocks, you will need multi-core insulated wires with a thickness of 2.5 sq. mm. They connect the terminals of the blocks (internal and external), most often the terminals are the same. If the names of the terminals are different, then it is necessary to study the instructions in detail and get advice from a specialist. All wires, by analogy with tubes, are passed through previously made holes in the wall.

Sealing

For sealing, a soapy solution is used. To do this, you need to purchase distilled water at the pharmacy and heat it to a state of steam. Then gently mixing, you need to dissolve in it a tablespoon of chopped laundry soap.

There should be two people working here. It is necessary to remove the outlet nipple, and attach a rubber hose from a bicycle pump to its nozzle. The assistant gently pumps air, the other applies soapy water to all threaded connections with a brush.

Then tighten the nuts until bubbles stop completely, and plus 1/8 turn from above. Soap deposits are removed with a damp cloth.

Vacuum cleaning process

The next step is the vacuuming process. It is necessary for the system to be cleaned of dust and moisture, which are removed along with the air. To do this, the nipple is screwed into place and a vacuum pump is attached to it. It must be tightened firmly. Then for an hour it is necessary to pump air. As a result, all residual moisture will evaporate.

Filling the system

The turn of the refrigerant has come, which needs to fill the system. To do this, a coolant bottle is connected to the system through an adapter with a pressure gauge. It should be filled until the pressure specified in the documentation is reached.

Important! Air conditioners that run on freon are not allowed to be filled with refrigerant and vice versa.

Test inclusion

When the machine is turned on, the split system must automatically enter the test mode. If this does not happen, then you need to start the test from the remote control. If this time it doesn’t work out, it means that the installation was done incorrectly and, in order not to completely disable the equipment, you need to call a specialist.

finishing touches

If the test activation was successful, then the blinds are installed in correct position and start to wobble. The bundle located between the blocks on top must be wrapped with aluminum foil. This will serve as a thermal shield, which will save up to 3% of electricity. The second layer of the tourniquet, together with the drainage tube, is wrapped with moisture-resistant insulating tape. The final touch is the capital sealing of the hole in the wall. You don't need to do this with foam. On this we can sum up the decisive result that the split system is independently installed and works properly.

Video on the topic "How to install the air conditioner yourself"

In the hot summer, people begin to understand what they lack in home improvement.
Air conditioning allows:

• get rid of problems such as heat and stuffiness;
• maintain the desired level of temperature in the room, as comfortable as possible for humans and household appliances.

Unlike fans, causing drafts and leading to colds, modern air conditioners maintain the set temperature regime in automatic mode without problematic movements of air flows.

household appliances according to their design, they are divided into two main classes:

• monoblock;
• multiblock devices.

Monoblock plants consist of one working unit and are divided into the following main types:

• Window. Such devices must be installed in a window opening. Modern systems are produced with a power of 1.5-6 kW, may have an additional air heating system, automatic temperature control and remote control. The price of this air conditioner from 12000 rubles and higher, depending on the configuration.

• Monoblock air conditioner mobile type designed for floor installation and can move around the apartment. He does not require special installation; the only condition is that the air outlet hose must be brought out. The hose has a diameter of up to 15 cm and a length of up to 2 m, which limits movement in the distance to the window.

• rooftop devices, which are rarely used as domestic installations.

Multi-block structures are represented by split systems different installation with two or more blocks. They have an outdoor unit containing a compressor and are installed outside the room, and one or more indoor units for air distribution.

• The most common type of split system is the wall-mounted version of the indoor unit. It connects electrically and hydraulically to the outdoor unit and is fixed to the wall anywhere in the room. Such devices are produced with a power of 2-7 kW and are able to cool a room ranging from 12 to 75 square meters. m. The distance between the elements (pipeline length) is selected up to 7 m.

• Unlike a simple split with 1 indoor unit, a multi-split system is based on an installation of 2 to 5 internal devices, which may have different design and power (within 2-5 kW). Such a system allows you to distribute air conditioning throughout the apartment, without cluttering the outer surface of the wall with additional blocks.

Air conditioner power calculation

The choice of air conditioner power. This important parameter of the device depends on the volume of the room.

• S- the area of ​​the room;
• H- ceiling height;
• q- heat transfer coefficient of the walls (for the sunny side q=40, for the shady side - q=30) with the addition of 10% for the heat generated by people and household appliances(except for the kitchen).

For example, for a room with an area of ​​​​30 square meters, a height of 2.5 m, facing the sunny side of the house, the power should be 30 x 2.5 x 40 x 1.1 \u003d 3300 watts. Standard power range of split systems: 2; 2.6; 3.5; 5.3 and 7 kW. Hence, you will have to choose an air conditioner with a capacity of 3.5 kW.

How to choose the right air conditioner

With the onset of the summer season, many are wondering: which air conditioner to choose? When selecting, in addition to power, We recommend that you pay attention to the following characteristics:

• electricity consumption, the length of the freon line;
• weight;
• drainage features, design;
• important - the presence of automatic temperature control, remote control, the presence of fittings for fastening;
• and, of course, the price of the device.

Watch our video on how to choose the right air conditioner:

The principle of operation of the air conditioner

All household split systems have a similar operating principle:

• The air is cooled by coolant(freon) at the moment of transformation into gas in the evaporator chamber takes in a lot of heat.
• Vacuum pump gaseous freon is pumped out of the chamber and enters the condensation chamber, where again turns into a liquid.
• Then a new cycle begins, and so it repeats constantly. It should also be taken into account that in the evaporation chamber when freon evaporates, water condensate is formed, accumulating at the bottom of the chamber and requiring withdrawal (drainage).

A feature of the split system is remote separation of the location of the condensation chamber, compressor and vacuum pump, and the evaporation chamber.
Due to the fact that all elements that emit noise (compressor, pump) are located in the outdoor unit and taken out of the room, it is ensured silent operation.
Freon is distilled through annealed copper tubes through the indoor unit, where the evaporation chamber is located and the air is cooled.

The energy consumption of the system can be reduced by the following measures:

• the minimum length of the freon line;
• good drainage of the evaporation chamber;
• exclusion of heating of the outdoor unit under the influence of direct sunlight.

Energy consumption is reduced when the outdoor unit is lower than the indoor unit, just as when heated, any liquid itself rushes up, which means that it does not have to be promoted artificially.

The tightness of the entire system is important - any microscopic defects can lead to freon volatilization.

Installing an air conditioner and a split system with your own hands

Installing a split air conditioner includes the following main steps:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Installation of outdoor and indoor units.
3. Freon piping.
4. Installation of a drainage system.
5. Installation of the electrical circuit.
6. Filling refrigerant and sealing the system.
7. Test and launch.

For mounting do-it-yourself air conditioner, you must prepare the following tool in advance:

• perforator, electric drill and screwdriver;
• rolling set;
• vacuum pump and gauge manifold;
• pipe processing tool - pipe cutter, scraper, reamer, pipe bender;
• Screwdriver Set;
• a set of socket and wrench keys;
• Adjustable wrench;
• tester;
• level and plumb;
• Bulgarian.

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How to choose and install it yourself? Let's figure it out.

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When installing the device with your own hands, you will need the following mounting material and equipment:

• for freon route: copper tube (two sizes); return nuts for tubes (two sizes); material for thermal insulation of the track;
• for electrical installation: cable, circuit breaker at least 25A, connecting (terminal) block, RCD, PVC electrical tape, corrugated pipe for cable;
• for the drainage system: hose for outdoor and indoor units, fittings for connecting to sewer system and connections;
• for fastening: brackets for the outdoor unit, mounting plate for the indoor unit, anchor bolts, dowels and screws, rope (cable) to hold the outdoor unit during installation;
• for filling and sealing: freon bottle, silicone sealant;
• auxiliary elements: plastic boxes for pipes and drainage (60-100 mm) and cable (20-30 mm), clamps, pipeline fasteners, screws, dowels.

Preparatory work

The preparatory phase includes a number activities without which you can not start work:

1. preparation of the mounting kit;
2. studying instructions;
3. checking the availability of all details;
4. determination of the place of attachment of blocks;
5. route marking; clarification of the possibility of the power grid.

Installation work must begin by reading the instructions by use. Without instructions, where the specified parameters of the device are given, quality installation impossible. If the instruction is lost, then you should find an air conditioner similar in model (company office, service centers, Internet).

The instructions specify the following parameters:

• operating current;
• permissible length and diameter of the pipeline;
• drainage requirements specific installation requirements;
• type of refrigerant and its working pressure;
• mass of blocks.

Block placement

When determining the place where it is necessary to install an air conditioner in an apartment, certain rules must be followed.

• The internal one is installed close to the ceiling, but not closer than 15 cm.
• There must be a free gap of at least 10 cm around the block.
• During installation, the unit should be hung obliquely at an angle of up to 5 degrees.
• The location of the element should allow free supply of pipes and cables, and be away from heat sources.
• The distance to the block from the window should not exceed the maximum dimensions set for the length of the freon route.
• The outdoor unit is installed on the outer side of the wall below the indoor unit, but no more than 3 m.
• Its location must be chosen so that the installation is easy to carry out from the window opening.
• The length of the pipes from the block to the entrance to the room should not exceed 1 m.
• During installation, the outer element is moved away from the wall by 10 cm. It is forbidden to install the unit near the gas pipeline.

Planned block installation sites are marked with chalk or a marker with mounting brackets. Then between them piping route is marked for freon and power cable. noted mounting location of electrical distribution box. Drainage systems are being marked s and diverting it into the sewer.

Wiring and laying a freon route

Installation of the system consists in fixing the blocks, laying and fixing the pipeline, electrical wiring and drainage system.

The pipeline and cable along the wall can be laid in three ways:

• penalty;
• plastic box;
• corrugated hose.

Penalties allow you to make a hidden route, but require a lot of time and effort. For laying all highways in concrete, a standard channel size 40 x 60 mm.

Chasing is carried out using a grinder, puncher or wall chaser. The easiest and most high-quality way is to use a wall chaser, which allows you to make a channel in one pass, but the cost of such a power tool is high. More a common method is to cut 2 longitudinal slots with a grinder followed by sampling of concrete between the slots with a perforator.

An easier laying method is a plastic hose or box. They are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes with a diameter of about 8 mm are drilled in the marked places. To draw a route through a wall, it breaks through hole with a diameter of 5-8 cm using a perforator.

Installation of the drainage system

Proper installation - draining the air conditioner into the sewer, but this is realized only with a close location of sewer pipes. Most often, the drainage hoses are simply brought out (the volume of condensate is small and is released in the form of drops). A feature of laying drainage is the need to ensure the self-flow of water, i.e. the hose should be lowered by 3 cm for every 1 m of gasket length.

Electrical connection

The cable for power supply of the units is placed in a corrugated hose or a stub pierced in the wall. It is pulled through the wall into the same hole as the tubes. By outer wall and in a hole in the wall wiring is located in the corrugation. The channel for laying inside the wall has dimensions of at least 10 x 10 mm.

The outlet of the electrical circuit of the air conditioner from the main electrical network is carried out in the nearest junction box, if the section of the supply wires allows. Often, necessary into an existing channel extend additional cable(wire) of the desired section. A terminal block is installed in the junction box, in which the connection is made.

Introductory RCD is installed on the electrical panel with a circuit breaker for a current of at least 25 A.

The figure shows circuit diagram air conditioner connections:

Split system installation

The outdoor unit is mounted on brackets, the dimensions of which must take into account the weight of the device, as well as weather factors (snow, icing, wind). The brackets are fastened with anchor bolts, and the holes in the wall for them are punched with a perforator. Usually brackets are included. It is recommended to install a canopy over the outdoor unit.

To install the indoor unit pre-on wall fixed with dowels mounting plate included with the air conditioner. Holes for dowels are drilled with an electric drill or punched with a puncher. The block itself, according to the installation technology, is installed with an inclination at an angle of 3 to 5 degrees to direct the cool air down.

When laying copper pipes, special attention approach their curve. To avoid deformations, bending should be carried out using a special device - a pipe bender. The permissible bending diameter is 20 cm. The tube must be cut with a pipe cutter, and the cut end must be processed with a scraper.

A heat-insulating hose made of polyurethane foam is put on the pipes(flex). Threaded flanges (back nuts) are installed on the ends of the tubes, and the end is rolled with a reamer. The flanges are installed on the fittings of the blocks and tightened, but so as not to deform the soft copper base of the tube.

Special attention - the thread of the flanges must be directed towards the end, and when fastening the cold outlet of one unit must not be connected to the hot outlet of another.

Charging refrigerant and completing the installation

The final stage of installation of the air conditioner includes filling the system with refrigerant, sealing and testing.

After the installation is completed, the power supply is connected and the system is charged with freon.

• air is pumped out using a vacuum pump;
• then the system is filled with freon from a cylinder, where it is under pressure.

The tightness of the structure is controlled by a manometric manifold.

If the collector shows no pressure increase within 60 minutes, then the tightness is considered normal; otherwise, the sealing of the joints should be checked. The easiest way to check is soap suds. The broken joints are sealed by applying silicone sealant.

Testing is carried out when turned on in different modes. Switching on is done using an automatic switch, and the test mode is set on the air conditioner.

To learn how to install the air conditioner yourself, see the video:

Rules for the use of air conditioners

When using the air conditioner in everyday life you should follow some rules:

• it is impossible to direct a strong stream directly at a person, so as not to cause a cold;
• it is not recommended to allow a temperature difference between adjacent rooms of more than 10 degrees;
• recommended optimum temperature- 20-22 degrees;
• you should periodically turn off the device and ventilate the room to restore the ozone content;
• it is recommended to apply;
• it is necessary to carry out preventive measures - replacing filters, adding freon, cleaning the system.

It is forbidden to turn on a faulty air conditioner: sparking in places of electrical contact, clicking inside, cable heating, refrigerant leakage.

air conditioner installation cost

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands requires certain costs - the purchase of fasteners, refrigerant, auxiliary materials. In general, all costs should not exceed 1000 rubles.

Installing an air conditioner by a specialist can be produced without spending your own time and effort, but will require at the lowest prices from 6000 rubles. By time installation of a split system will take no more than 8 hours in the presence of the right tools and materials.

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands should begin with choosing a place for installation. In fact, everything is not easy. It is necessary to take into account:

So you have to solve a complex problem, trying to satisfy all the requirements and recommendations. Only in this case, the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands will be successful.

Let's start with the simplest: choosing a placement in terms of usability. The indoor unit must be placed so that the cooled air is distributed throughout the room, but does not fall directly on the bed, desk, armchair. In principle, it is possible to redirect the flow using movable shutters, but it is much better to think about it from the very beginning.

The most correct decision in this case is to place the air conditioner above the head of the bed, above or to the side of the table. In this case, the flow of cold air will “flow around” the place of rest or work, which is much more comfortable and less hazardous to health.

In addition, there are technical points that must be foreseen before the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is started. The indoor unit is connected to the outdoor unit using a copper pipe route and a control cable. The outlets for connecting the track are on the right (if you look at the block from the front), but they can be bent so that they are on the left or bottom. These outlets are copper tubes 30 cm long.

Outputs from the outdoor unit of the split system (rear view)

A route is connected to them (by soldering or flaring), and the junction must be accessible for maintenance. Therefore, this section of the route is not hidden into the wall (into the gate), but is covered with a decorative box. At the same time, the track can be positioned in different ways - depending on which wall the indoor unit is hung on and where the outdoor unit is located in relation to it.

Block to the left of the outer wall

If the indoor unit is located to the left of the outer wall, and the tracks go straight, the minimum distance from the wall to the unit is 500 mm (1 picture in the photo). It can be reduced to 100 mm if the route is wrapped onto an adjacent wall, but its total length should not be less than 500 mm. If this is not possible, you can bring out the bends on the left and lay the pipes in the gate (figure on the right). In this case, this is possible, since the junction of the leads and the trace is obtained under the housing cover, so that it is accessible for repair and maintenance.

If cables, pipes, etc. cannot be pulled along the outer walls of the building. (not to spoil appearance), you will have to lay the entire route indoors. A less expensive option is to hold it in the corner, closing it with special boxes. This arrangement is convenient, since then you can close the box with curtains.

The second option is more labor-intensive (it is more difficult to make a strobe), but from the aesthetic side it is more advantageous - this is to transfer the output to the left side panel and put everything into the recess made.

On the wall to the right of the outside

This option can be called typical - this is a standard solution when choosing such a location. most often, the route in the box is led directly into the wall, but if necessary, it can be lowered in the corner (also closed with a box).

If necessary, you can put it in a strobe (the junction is in the body). If the route cannot be carried out outside the building, it can be laid in a strobe indoors. The track may look like the last two photos in the previous chapter.

Where to locate the outdoor unit

In fact, this is not the easiest task - to choose a place for the outdoor unit. Not all buildings allow them to be placed on the walls. In this case, there are only two ways out: install the outdoor unit of the split system in a specially designated place - air conditioning. If there is no such room, only a balcony or loggia remains. In such buildings, they are usually glazed, so the placement of the block does not affect the appearance.

But in this case, it is necessary to provide a system for cooling the equipment and removing exhaust air. If the balcony is spacious enough, for the duration of its operation, open windows for ventilation or providing access to fresh air in some other way. The way out is simple and clear, but it leads to overheating of the equipment, and this is fraught with breakdowns and frequent replacement of the damaged outdoor unit.

Mounting on a balcony is sometimes the only way out

Installing fans for a more active air exchange can slightly improve the situation. It’s right to fence off a small room, make effective ventilation in it, separate ventilation ducts for air extraction and supply. And they must be separate. This is done with the help of air ducts that lead out instead of part of the glazing. In general, in this case, installing an air conditioner with your own hands is a problematic task precisely in terms of providing normal conditions equipment operation.

On the balcony or loggia

If there are no prohibitions on placing foreign devices on the walls of the building, usually the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is hung on the balcony railing (side or front) or on the wall, but so that it can be reached for maintenance - wash, clean, check, repair.

If the balcony is glazed, there should be an opening window sash above it. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to serve it. To protect against precipitation and objects that may fall from the window, a visor is placed above the block. The choice of materials is something similar to finishing a balcony or a white plastic visor, but only full-bodied. It is better not to use hollow and metal ones (including corrugated board and metal tiles), because during rain they turn into a drum, and during hail they can generally stun.

If the block is placed on the loggia, of all the above options, only the one in the picture on the right remains. it is inconvenient to place it next to the wall, perhaps under the window, but this already belongs to another section.

One more thing: how to run the track - on the ceiling or on the floor? You will have to ditch in both cases, but in the case of the floor, it is possible that you will make it from boards, then the pipes and cables connecting the outdoor and indoor units can be laid on the surface, but better in a box.

Under or next to a window

In those rooms where there is no balcony or loggia, the outer part of the split system is hung on the wall from the outside. It is more convenient if it is located under the window or to the side of it. Moreover, under or next to the opening part. In this case, service is possible without calling a climber.

When installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner with your own hands on the wall next to the window, consider the height of its installation. You can position the top surface of the block flush with the top edge of the window. In this case, leaning out of the window and insured, it will be possible to carry out work standing on the windowsill. The second option is to align the lower edge flush with the lower border of the window opening. Here you can lie on your stomach on the windowsill, but you won’t be able to get to the outlet of the pipes. That is, you still have to call industrial climbers.

What is required to install an air conditioner with your own hands

For those who mount and connect split systems professionally, it takes, on average, three hours to work. The cost of this service is considerable, and it is explained by the need to use expensive equipment. Good devices do cost a lot, but many of them can be replaced with simpler ones or rented. The only thing that will be difficult to find is a vacuum pump. This is really expensive specialized equipment, but there is a technology that allows you to do without it. This is exactly what some installers do, who simply do not have such equipment - they simply bleed off part of the freon, cleaning the pipes. This method can be applied when self installation split systems.

Necessary equipment and what can replace it

What is necessary for the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands to be successful? First of all, you will need some set of tools. With their help, things will go faster. But if there is no special tool, it can be replaced with simpler devices. With them, work will take longer, but if you try, this will not affect the quality. So, what you need to install a split system:

• Powerful perforator. In the outer wall of a house or building, it is necessary to make through hole, through which copper pipes and cables connecting the indoor and outdoor units are output. Also, a drainage tube is discharged through this hole to drain condensate and excess moisture when the humidity is normalized. A perforator is not such a rarity, the only thing that can cause difficulties is the selection of the right nozzles. But this is a matter of technology.
• Pipe cutter with a sharp blade. Split system blocks are interconnected by copper pipes. They are sold in bays, so you have to cut into pieces of the desired length. If the pipe cutter blade is blunt, the edges of the pipe will be wrinkled or jagged. This will have to be corrected with a file and a rimmer (a special device for removing burrs). The pipe cutter can be replaced with a hacksaw with a metal blade, and the edges can be aligned and deburred with a file (needle file), finishing the edge smooth with sandpaper. Only when working, make sure that the hole being machined is pointing down. This prevents copper dust from getting inside the pipe (it can damage the inside of the air conditioner, so this is very important).
• Pipe bender or spring. To give copper pipes the desired shape.
• Drill with drills of different diameters. It is needed in order to make holes for the mounting plate of the indoor unit and corners for installing the outdoor unit.
• Expander and calibrator for copper pipes. This device, of course, is specific, but it costs a little.
• Wall chaser. When laying a route in a strobe (groove in the wall), this device greatly speeds up and simplifies the work. But you can get by with an ordinary chisel and a hammer / sledgehammer.

Well, as they said earlier, a vacuum pump is needed for a quality start of the system. There is nothing to replace it with, the only possibility is to release part of the freon on tracks up to 6 meters long (the "zilch" method).

In addition, you will need screwdrivers, hex keys, a level, a hammer, perhaps some other tools, but they are usually on the farm or are easy to find.

Materials and consumables

In addition to tools for installing an air conditioner with your own hands, you will need a certain amount of materials. Many of them are indispensable.

As you can see, installing an air conditioner with your own hands requires serious preparation. You need not only a special tool, but also specific materials.

Block assembly

If you want to do everything right, installing an air conditioner with your own hands should begin with a careful study of the instructions. For the most part, they are similar, but allowances, requirements for cable cross-section, route length, etc. may differ. Another plus from reading the manual is that you will definitely have an idea in what order to do the work. In general, here's what to do:

This completes the first stage of self-installation of the air conditioner. Next, we will lay the track.

Connecting blocks

The outdoor and indoor units of the split system are connected by two copper tubes and a cable. A drain tube is also brought out. All these communications can be laid on top of the wall, and then they fit into a special box. The second option is in a strobe, and then you need to make a groove that will connect the two blocks. But, first of all, you need to drill a hole in the wall. This is done after installing the fasteners for the blocks. And only after that do-it-yourself air conditioning installation continues.

When laying in a plastic box, all communications are tied into one bundle. This can be done with ties, but more often they are wrapped with metallized tape - to further reduce heat transfer from copper pipes.

Connecting copper pipes

We have already connected the cable earlier, and the installation of the air conditioner with our own hands is being completed by connecting copper pipes and drainage. Drainage is easier. There is an outlet at the bottom of the indoor unit, and we insert a hose or pipe there. The junction can be further sealed using plumbing fum tape. You can also use silicone sealant to seal.

Next, connect the copper pipes. We start in the inner block. Two ports are displayed on the side wall - one with fittings of a larger diameter, the second - of a smaller one. Which one to start with is not important. The procedure is as follows:

Actually, everything is already connected, but we still need to carry out vacuuming or simply remove moisture and air from the working bodies of the air conditioner.

vacuuming

Why carry out this procedure? During installation, air entered the system, and argon residues are also contained there. This mixture must be removed, otherwise it will significantly reduce the working life of the equipment. Naturally, it is better if there is special equipment. But, in extreme cases, you can do without it.

With vacuum pump

If there is a vacuum pump, everything is somewhat simpler. Two pressure gauges (low and high pressure) usually come with it; you can use them to track the pressure drop in the system, that is, to identify leaks. The vacuum pump is connected to the outlet on the external block with a spool (filling port), it turns on for 15-20 minutes. During this time, it removes the remaining air and nitrogen from the system.

After this time, the pump is turned off, but not disconnected, but left connected for another 20-30 minutes. All this time it is necessary to observe the readings of manometers. If they have changed, there is a leaky connection in the system. Most likely - this is the place where the copper tubes are connected and they need to be redone. If the readings of the pressure gauges are stable, without turning off the pump, we completely open the valve, which is located below. Freon starts to come out of the unit, filling the system (noise is heard). We put on gloves and quickly unscrew the hose of the vacuum pump (freon can damage the skin). After disconnecting the equipment, open the valve on the route above (outlets of smaller diameter). Now the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is over. Can be included.

Without vacuum pump

With a route length of up to 5 meters, the installation of an air conditioner can be carried out without a vacuum pump. To clean the equipment, you will have to lower a certain amount of freon, but there is no other way. The procedure is as follows:

And in this case, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed and the equipment is ready for work. But in this case, the tightness of the system has not been verified in any way and freon can slowly evaporate, and some air and argon still remain in the system. In general, the solution is not ideal.

What you need to know about installing a split system

Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem correct installation. Installation determines the quality and service life of the air conditioner by 90%. If errors are made during installation, then it is very difficult to correct them later.

• Decision: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, no debris, no dust, no boxes should remain in the room. The word "air conditioner" has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which in English means “air condition”. The air conditioner is used to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.

Today we will talk about installing more modern look air conditioning systems - about the split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a "regular" air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window”, which is cut into window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the house's general air conditioning system, if any (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and drives air around the house). And it differs from the "ordinary" air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.

But let's agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word "air conditioner", which is more familiar to our ears.

First - repair, then - split

So, split system (from English word split - “split, split”) consists of two separate blocks: internal (evaporator) and external or external (condenser). The blocks are interconnected by electrical wires and two copper tubes through which the refrigerant (freon) flows. A plastic thin tube (drainage) also extends outward from the indoor unit - to remove condensed moisture. Ideally, it should be connected to a drain (sewer) pipe or to a special tank, but often it is simply taken out into the street, and then drops of water fall on the heads of passers-by (for how to properly drain, see below).

The principle of operation of the split system is as follows. If the room needs to be cooled, then from the heat exchanger of the external unit, freon enters the heat exchanger of the indoor unit through one copper tube. It is blown by a fan, as a result of which cold air comes out of the indoor unit. If the air in the room needs to be heated, then with the help of a heat pump, the external condenser turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor, which is installed in the outdoor unit. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.

The indoor unit operates almost silently (for Daikin models, the noise level of some indoor units is 28 - 31 dB, and for Mitsubishi, when the engine is turned on at the lowest speed, it is 26 dB; a flying butterfly creates the same noise level). But the fan and compressor of an external device can “buzz” and louder.

According to the mounting method, indoor units are wall-mounted and floor-ceiling (floor-ceiling are called so because they can be attached to both the ceiling and the floor). There are also cassette and multi-zone indoor units, but we will talk about them next time.

In apartments, wall-mounted indoor units are most often installed. With the help of movable shutters of the wall unit, you can change the direction of the air flow. But the power of wall blocks is specially limited - otherwise a strong stream of cold air will simply “blow off” everything in its path. But if a room (for example, in an office) requires a more powerful air conditioner, a floor-to-ceiling unit is installed. It will allow you to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure an even distribution of temperature in the room.

Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more efficient to install a floor-to-ceiling air conditioner!

Split systems differ in power (cooling capacity) and design. The choice of design is at the discretion of the buyer. But about the power, you must definitely consult with a specialist. In doing so, you need to know:

• 1. The area (volume) of your room.
• 2. The dimensions of the window, the direction of the world to which it goes.
• 3. The presence (absence) of blinds on the windows.
• 4. The number of constantly operating equipment that generates heat (TV, computer, etc.).
• 5. The number of radiators in the rooms.
• 6. The number of people permanently in the room.
• 7. Is there forced ventilation?

Another tip: if the company where you want to buy an air conditioner didn’t ask you anything about it, then it’s better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that you are offered a "typical not that." In reputable companies, before selling the air conditioner, the consultant, as a rule, travels to the place of the intended installation of the device, takes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all this data is entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. So, for example, they work in the Aeroprof company specializing in Carrier air conditioners (USA), in the Meteomarket company (Daikin air conditioners) and the KlimatSS company (Hitachi air conditioners) ).

What else do you need to know? Experts advise INSTALLING A SPLIT SYSTEM BEFORE or DURING REPAIR, and not after all repair work already carried out. Then you do not have to gouge and drill freshly painted and leveled walls to lay the electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fixing the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications in external boxes, but this will not decorate the interior.

Moreover, installation work in a freshly renovated apartment is much more expensive, especially after renovation.

Now about other possible "ambushes". Very often mistakes begin even when buying an air conditioner. Wanting to save money, we go to the nearest store (or even to the market) and buy an air conditioner. So what? And that's all: we are one on one with him. At best, after carefully reading the instructions, we undertake to install it.

Meanwhile, installing a split system in an apartment is not at all the same as installing a refrigerator or a TV: they say, they brought it home, put it in the chosen place, turned it on and it works! With air conditioning, such a room will not work. Air conditioning requires proper installation. This is exactly the case when it is impossible to save on installation. The better it is installed, the longer it will last. It's no coincidence that installation work make up 18-30% of the cost of the unit.

I remember how one experienced and restrained-looking installer, answering my completely innocent question: where to start installing the air conditioner, suddenly got excited and yelled: “People! You are all smart! Each air conditioner is given an instruction in Russian, in which both installation and operating rules are described “for fools”, point by point. Read it, damn it, before sticking your hands in! Better yet, call the experts. And, alas, he is right.

Installation: where to start?

Split system installation diagram

• 1. Communications (in strobe)
• 2. Drainage (in strobe)
• 3. Sewerage
• 4. Siphon
• 5. Electrical wiring - to the shield (in the strobe)
• 6. Hole in the wall, punched with an inclination of 1–3°

First stage: separate electrical wiring is carried out

To any, even a low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate electrical wiring and put a separate machine in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, catch fire. If, however, a separate wiring for the air conditioner is laid by specialist installers, the possibility of fire is reduced to almost zero.

Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed for the loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember the case when the owner of the apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out plugs.

Second stage: installation of the outdoor unit

To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, on which they then install the outdoor unit.

If you put it on an open balcony, then there is no problem: they attached it with bolts, the breeze blows it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the unit to the wall, then you can not do without strong brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors, the "outdoor" is mounted from a machine equipped with a sliding ladder. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes equipment is required in the form of a car with a fire escape-boom, and a climber.

If you live on the upper floors, then the outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3-20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).

If your apartment is located on the ground floor, I strongly recommend hanging the outdoor unit above 1.8–2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. And they can steal it. At one of the firms we were told a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. Managers were surprised: "Why don't you want a whole split system." - “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, under the window hung. Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, it is necessary to make a metal visor above it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.

In general, installing an outdoor unit is a responsible matter. If it is loosely fastened, it can fall down ... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will be responsible.

What can not be done with the outdoor (outdoor) unit?

There are space limitations for installing the outdoor unit:

• 1. The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
• 2. Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to a refrigerant leak). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.

Third stage: installation of the indoor unit

Installers fasten special brackets to the wall (if the unit is wall-mounted) or ceiling (if the unit is ceiling-mounted) with screws and install blocks on them. After that, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening (does the structure stagger? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later, the whole structure may simply collapse on your head.

But for the floor unit, special fasteners are not required. He, as they say, "stands on foot." You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, keep in mind that the unit does not blow on the curtains or on the wall and stand away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, but after laying all the communications, it is no longer possible to move it from place to place.

So, the indoor unit cannot be installed:

• 1. ... above a heat source (for example, above a battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work for cooling “until the pulse is lost” and will fail very quickly. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the chamber, but the whole room. It will "work" and fail by the end of the day. The same will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat from the room battery may deform the plastic housing of the unit.
• 2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly working (for example, a drill, a drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can "knock down" the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
• 3 . ... directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse than that, get pneumonia.
• 4. …where air circulation will be difficult, such as behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back with the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate is set and turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly “got confused in the curtains” and turned off before it had time to bring the room temperature to the set one. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
• 5. ... with a skew - then water (condensate) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be discharged through a drainage pipe into a special reservoir (see our certificate of drainage).

Fourth stage: chasing walls or floors

In order to connect the electrical wires and freon tubes between the air conditioner units, installers punch gutters in the walls or on the ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “probe the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “stroke”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.

Don't want to ditch? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are removed under the plinth). But before that, installers will need to connect two copper pipes (for refrigerant) and "ends" of electrical wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do it with connection fittings. And in a pre-punched hole in the outer wall, they laid a “waterproof glass” with a connecting hose.

After that, they must carry out the so-called evacuation of communications, and be sure to do so for 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation is done with the help of special equipment.

And keep in mind - for the drainage tube, as a rule, they make a separate hidden line (in the wall or under the floor).

Fifth stage: checking the operation of the system using a special program

At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by installing it on the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then it is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we advise you to independently conduct such a check of the system operation every year (using the same test program).

Sixth stage: garbage collection

I must warn you: laying the line and other installation procedures are dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will come with special tools (including a metal detector to examine the walls for fittings and hidden communications).

In addition, installers must have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning machines. With their help, after the work is completed, they must independently remove all garbage. If the installers are trying to dodge the "dirty" work, strictly demand - "cleaning the territory" is included in the payment for the installation of the air conditioner. In addition, you can conclude an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of a split system. Then you don't have to, risking your life, leaning out of the window to the waist, clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers with your own money. When concluding such an agreement (it also includes warranty repairs), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it's worth it. By the way, we hasten to inform you of a pleasant detail: Meteomarket, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year service contract expires. However, if you are satisfied old unit- you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted Good work. By the way, in the notorious building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been standing since the days of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.

The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period of the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned immediately) breaks down. Of course, you can vacuum it if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.

At temperatures below -15 ° C, the air conditioner may refuse to work "for heat", and then low-temperature equipment (a heat pump, a compressor heater and even a drain pipe heater) will be needed. By the way, some models are already equipped with these devices (see table).

What did the installers say?

Experienced installers do not advise buying air conditioners "from whomever you have", on the market or from hands.

“How many times it happened, such illiterate buffoons will carry out the installation, and then people call us, begging for help,” one experienced installer from a very reputable company told me. - It used to be that such unfortunate installers would bring with them a copper pipe for freon, and it had no plugs. If there are no plugs, then moist air will get inside. And humidity is unacceptable for the air conditioner: when combined with the insides of the entire system, it forms an acid that corrodes the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving properly for many years, such an air conditioner is, of course, sent to a landfill in three years.

The installers told me that sometimes they come across especially stubborn customers, they say, “I'm crying, do as I say!”. How to be? Here was a case recently. The client ordered to install the outdoor unit not from the side of the street, but inside the apartment, moreover, in the children's room. He motivated this by a strange statement that his children, they say, will live in the country for another two months. He ignored all the persuasion and arguments of the installers that the outdoor unit should not be placed indoors, and even more so in a residential area. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything on a new one.

Or here's the case. The client wanted the indoor unit to blow directly onto the bed and the air temperature to be 18°C. They tried to prove to him that it would be cold, in addition, a directed stream of cold air could cause a cold. "Not! I won't catch a cold! Bet!” Nothing to do, set. The next day they came to install the air conditioner in another room, they see, and the temperature on that, yesterday's split, is set to 22 ° C.

– What is it? they ask.

- It's true, guys, I froze at night.

In general, with the correct operation of the air conditioner, a person should not feel that something is cooling or heating him. Just comfortable - that's all! Once a friend called the company and asked to come. He says: “I didn’t buy it from you, though.” Okay, let's go. They opened the block, and there was a dead rat.

That's it. Hence the conclusion - it is not enough to buy and install a split system. The main thing is that professionals do it for you.

Our reference

The optimum temperature for human life is + 21–23°С.

Optimal air parameters in the residential area

For air conditioning a room of 10 square meters you need a device with a power of 1 kW, provided that the height of the walls is not higher than 3 meters.

There is a formula for calculating the cooling capacity (power):

Q(total) (excess heat) = Q1+ Q2+ Q3,

• 1. Excess heat, depending on the volume of the room, is calculated according to the following formula: Q1 = S x H x q(sp.), where S is the area of ​​the room (sq.m.), H is the height of the room (m); q(sp.) = 0.03 kW/cu.m. - if direct sunlight does not enter the room; q(sp.) = 0.035 kW/cu.m. - mean; q(sp.) = 0.04 kW/cu.m. - if there is a lot of sun in the room.
• 2. The heat from running Q2 equipment is approximately 30% of the power it consumes.
• 3. Heat from people Q3 is 0.1 kW per person for office space and residential apartments and 0.1 - 0.3 kW for restaurants, gyms, etc. The power of the air conditioner is selected closest to the obtained value Q (gen.)

The procedure for installing a split system

1. Wiring a separate electrical wiring for the air conditioner and installing a separate "machine" in the switchboard.

2. Installation of the outdoor (outdoor) unit:

• choosing a place for its installation (not lower than 1.8–2 meters above the ground, otherwise they can be stolen - there have been cases);
• installation of supporting brackets (anchor bolts);
• strengthening the outdoor unit on the brackets;
• drilling a hole with a diameter of 5.0–6.0 cm in the outer wall for connecting communications (they will connect the external and internal blocks of the split system);
• inserting a “waterproof glass” into the hole (the material from which the “glass” is made is the know-how of installers); laying in the "glass" of connecting communications.

3. Installation of the indoor unit:

• choice of location (the horizontal distance between the indoor and outdoor units should not exceed more than 7-30 meters - depending on the brand of the system);
• installation of supporting brackets;
• strengthening the indoor unit on the brackets.

4. System wiring connection:

• chasing a wall or floor (in order to hide communications or laying wires in a plastic case);
• connection of wires (copper for refrigerant and electrical) coming from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit using connecting fittings;
• carrying out the vacuum procedure (within 50 minutes, to remove air and moisture from communications using special equipment).

5. Testing the system:

• checking the operation of the system using a special program.

6. Cleaning of the premises (by the installers).

How should proper drainage be arranged?

To do this, installers must:

• 1. Break the highway.
• 2. Turn off the water in the apartment.
• 3. Drill in sewer pipe hole.
• 4. Firmly insert a drainage plastic tube with a siphon into the hole. A layer of water in the siphon will delay the smell coming from the sewer.

Attention! The drainage tube, through which the accumulated moisture is removed, must necessarily go at an inclination of 5–10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If for some reason the tilt cannot be done, you must install a special pump for “forced suction of moisture”. But! This pump is not included and must be purchased separately. The purchase will cost 70 - 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.

The main problems that arise during the operation of the air conditioner

Problem 1: The air conditioner blows directly on you, creating a drafty feeling.

• Decision: You need to turn on the auto-oscillate function horizontal blinds(then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal dampers in a better position. If this does not work, you need to turn the air flow to the left or right using the vertical air flaps. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be done using the remote control.

Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not create the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it works constantly.

• Decision: In this case, you should check if the filters are clogged, if windows and doors are closed, if additional heating devices (boilers or toasters) are working in the room. It can be recommended to hang thick white blinds on the windows, which reflect heat and light well, thus reducing the heat gain through the windows by almost half. If this does not help, the model must be replaced with a more powerful one.

Problem 3: Water is dripping from the indoor unit of the split system.

• Decision: Looks like the drainpipe is clogged. Most often, this situation occurs when an air conditioner with a drainage pipeline brought outside is turned on for cooling at sub-zero temperatures. In this case, the condensate may turn into an ice plug. To avoid this, it is necessary to heat the drainage pipeline to +5 °C using a special cable. If an ice plug nevertheless arose, then it is worth waiting for a thaw, and until that moment do not turn on the system for cooling.

Problem 4: Decreased airflow.

• Decision: Clean the air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or washed with a soft sponge in warm water. It is not recommended to operate the air conditioner without a filter, as it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When the latter becomes dusty, the efficiency of the air conditioner decreases.

Problem 5: Icing of the outdoor unit during the operation of the air conditioner for heating in conditions of low negative temperatures and high humidity.

• Decision: If the air conditioner is not equipped with an automatic defrost system, try turning it on in cooling mode. In this case, the outdoor unit begins to give off heat to the street, heats up and gradually thaws.

Problem 6: Premature failure of the air conditioner.

• Decision: To avoid this, do not operate it at temperatures below -10-15°C. At lower temperatures, the oil in the compressor thickens, and its wear increases many times over.

There are various rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But in the press center of the capital's SES, we were told that there is nothing to be afraid of: with the timely replacement of filters and subject to the operating rules, the split system does not hide any harm. At least, there were no complaints to the sanitary and epidemiological supervision.

Courtesy of MATERIAL magazine

Climate technology and, in particular, split systems, which are habitually called air conditioners, help to survive the summer heat and stuffiness. The equipment is not cheap, but the worst thing is that for its installation it is required to pay an amount slightly less than for the equipment. Because many think about self-assembly. Installing an air conditioner with your own hands is possible, but there are many little things and features, ignorance of which leads to rapid wear of the equipment. Detailed step-by-step instruction will help you get things right.

Location selection

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands begins with determining the location of the equipment. Since split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a place for both. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how cold air will spread in a house or apartment, as well as take into account technical requirements.

Let's start with the technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we take into account the following requirements:

• from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (for some manufacturers, at least 20-30 cm);
• to the wall on the side - at least 30 cm;
• to the obstacle against which the flow of cold air will break - at least 150 cm.

The outdoor unit is usually placed near a window or on an open balcony, if there is one. On a glazed balcony / loggia, installation on a fence (if it has sufficient bearing capacity) or next to a wall is possible. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, they try to put the outdoor unit above the window level - away from passers-by. On higher floors, it can be placed under a window or on the side.

If the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is planned in a private house, a place is usually chosen based on the bearing capacity of the walls. If there is a ventilated facade, you can use a special mount or hang the unit on the plinth, if any.

When choosing the location of the split system blocks, you must also remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is normalized. Specific figures vary by manufacturer. For example, the minimum distance can be 1.5 m, 2.5 m ( different models Daikin) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). For some manufacturers, the minimum length is not regulated, that is, it can be any. In this case, you can install the blocks "back to back". Installers call this installation method a “sandwich”.

Slightly easier is the situation with the maximum distance between two blocks. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refueling of the system with freon will be required, and these are additional costs, and considerable ones. Therefore, they try to invest in the required 6 meters.

What you need for self-assembly

You probably know how much it costs to install an air conditioner by specialists. When asked where such prices come from, because the work is only 3 hours, they answer that very expensive equipment and its depreciation makes up a significant share of the cost. This may be true, but most of this equipment may already be on the farm. The exception is a vacuum pump, but many crews do without it, since a normal one really costs a lot, but a bad one is of no use.

Equipment

So, to install an air conditioner with your own hands, you will need the following equipment:

For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually there is nowhere to take it and on tracks up to 6 meters they do without it.

materials

To connect and install two blocks of split systems, you will need the following consumables:

This is all that is needed to install the air conditioner with your own hands.

Installation procedure and features of the work

There is nothing super complicated in self-installation of a split system, but there are a lot of nuances that can affect the durability and quality of the equipment. First of all, before starting work, you should carefully read the installation and operating instructions that come with the equipment. You compensate for the time spent by knowing exactly what and how to do with your air conditioner, because there are some nuances.

Start - mount the blocks

Before starting all work, it is worth looking for hidden wiring or heating pipes in the intended installation site. Getting into them at work is very sad. Next comes the actual installation of the air conditioner with your own hands. You need to start with the installation of the indoor unit. On the selected place we place a plate for its fastening. The block must hang strictly horizontally without the slightest deviation. Therefore, we carefully approach the marking and fastening.

We apply the plate, set it according to the level, mark the places for fasteners. We drill holes, insert plastic plugs under the dowels, hang the plate and fix it with dowels. We especially carefully fasten the lower part of the plate - there are latches that hold the block, so they must be firmly fixed. No loopholes. Then check the horizontal position again.

Having estimated where the track will be located (it should go at an inclination of at least 1 cm per meter - for normal drainage installation), we begin to drill a hole in the outer wall. We also drill the hole with a slope - again, so that the condensate normally leaves (the angle can be greater than that of the route).

The minimum hole diameter is 5 cm. If there is no drill of this size, you can make several holes of a smaller diameter, bring out not a common bundle of communications, but each tube / cable separately. In any case, it is better to drill two holes - one for the copper and electrical cable, the second for the drain tube. It must be laid below the rest - so that it does not numb on communications in an emergency.

If two units are mounted back to back, the hole must be strictly aligned (measure on your own unit where the connection ports are)

Then install the brackets for the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a high-rise building, you will need climbing equipment and skills to work at height. This block must also hang strictly horizontally, so we also use the level when marking the holes. When mounting the brackets, we install fasteners in each hole, no matter how many there are - this is a prerequisite. Standard fasteners - anchors 10 * 100 mm. More is possible, less is highly undesirable.

After the brackets are fixed, expose the outdoor unit. We also fix the block in all the fasteners that are. This is the only way to ensure that it stays in place under any conditions.

Laying communications

Two blocks are connected by an electric wire, two copper tubes. Also, a drainage tube is brought out through the wall. All these communications must be properly selected, connected, laid and fixed.

Copper tubes

We start with copper pipes. One larger diameter, the other smaller. Dimensions are indicated in the instructions for the air conditioner. We cut off a piece of the required length with a pipe cutter, process the edges from burrs with a special tool, straightening and leveling the cut. It is undesirable to use a conventional saw, as well as a file to remove a burr - there will definitely be sawdust inside the pipe, which will enter the system and quickly destroy the compressor.

Heat-insulating tubes are put on the prepared pipes. Moreover, the thermal insulation must be continuous and pass inside the wall as well. The joints of the pieces of thermal insulation must be glued with metallized tape, achieving a very tight fit of the edges. The quality of thermal insulation is important, since condensation will form on the non-insulated sections of the pipes, and it can drain inside the wall, causing frozen drips, destroying the wall.

Copper pipes wrapped in thermal insulation must be passed through a hole in the wall. Before this, it is imperative that the edge that will be inserted into the wall be carefully sealed so that dust does not get inside the pipe (or it is better to plug both ends securely immediately after cutting and leave the plugs before starting the connection). This is very important point as the dust will quickly damage the compressor.

Cable and drainage

It's easier with electric cable. Each wire is terminated with special lugs, installed on conductors that have been stripped of insulation and crimped with tongs. The prepared cable is connected according to the diagram, which is in the instructions.

On the indoor and outdoor units, above the ports for connecting copper pipes, there is a removable plate, under which there are connectors for connecting the cable. Before you start installing the split system yourself, remove the plates, consider what and where you need to connect - it will be easier to work later. Especially with an outdoor unit.

Connecting the drain pipe is generally simple: it is connected to the appropriate outlet on the indoor unit and led out through the wall. The length of this tube should be such that it ends at a distance of 60-80 cm from the wall. Laying the drainage pipe should be done with a slope towards the exit to the street. Slope not less than 1 cm per meter long. More is possible, less is not.

The tube must be fixed every meter so that sagging does not occur in it. Condensation then accumulates in them, which may end up on your floor or on furniture. When you pass the tube through a hole in the wall, it is also better to muffle it with something.

Indoors, pipes and cables are usually wrapped with metallized tape into a single bundle. Then they are fixed to the wall in several places, a plastic box is attached on top. Usually it is taken in white or a color suitable for finishing.

If you wish, you can hide all the tubes in the wall - gouge the track in the wall, lay it there and, after checking the performance, wall it up. But this is a rather risky option, since in order to repair something you will need to disassemble the wall.

Connecting blocks

Here, in general, there are no special secrets. The communications stretched through the hole in the wall are connected to the appropriate connectors. There are no problems with connecting the cable - connect the wires of the same color to the terminals that are already connected to them. In this case, you can't really go wrong.

If the height difference in the installation of blocks exceeds 5 meters, it is necessary to make a loop to catch the oil (we lay copper pipes in this way) dissolved in freon. If the drop is lower, we do not make any loops.

Drainage

There are two ways to divert drainage from the split system - into the sewer or just outside, out the window. The second method is more common with us, although it is not very correct.

Connecting the drain tube is also easy. A corrugated hose is easily pulled onto the outlet of the drainage system of the indoor unit (a tube with a plastic tip at the bottom of the unit). To keep it secure, you can tighten the connection with a clamp.

The same is the case with the drainage from the outdoor unit. Exit it at the bottom. Often they leave everything as it is, and the water just drips down, but it's probably better to put on a drainage hose too and take moisture away from the walls.

Outdoor Unit Drainage

If not a hose is used, but a polymer pipe, it will be necessary to select an adapter that will allow you to connect the outlet of the air conditioner and the tube. You will have to watch on the spot, because situations are different.

When laying a drain pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns and certainly not to allow sagging - condensation will accumulate in these places, which is not good at all. As has been said more than once, the tube is laid out with a slope. Optimal - 3 mm per 1 meter, minimum - 1 mm per meter. Throughout it is fixed to the wall, at least every meter.

Freon circulation system

It is somewhat more difficult with connecting copper pipes. They are carefully laid out along the walls, avoiding kinks and creases. For bending, it is better to use a pipe bender, but you can get by with a spring one. In this case, sharp turns should also be avoided, but in order not to bend the tubes.

The ports on the outdoor unit look like this. Same on the inside.

From the beginning, we connect the tubes in indoor unit. On it, we twist the nuts from the ports. As the nuts loosen, a hiss is heard. It's nitrogen coming out. This is normal - nitrogen is pumped in at the factory so that the insides do not oxidize. When the hissing stops, take out the plugs, remove the nut, put it on the tube, and then start rolling.

rolling

First, remove the plugs from the pipes and check the edge. It should be smooth, round, without burrs. If the section is not round during cutting, use a calibrator. This is a small device that can be found in the forehead shop. It is inserted into the pipe, scrolled, aligning the section.

The edges of the tubes are carefully aligned for 5 cm, after which the edges are flared so that they can be connected to the inlet / outlet of the blocks, creating a closed system. The correct execution of this part of the installation is very important, since the freon circulation system must be airtight. Then refueling the air conditioner will not be needed soon.

When flaring, hold the pipe with the hole down. Again, so that copper particles do not get inside, but spill out onto the floor. In the holder, it is clamped so that it sticks out 2 mm outward. That's right, no more, no less. We clamp the tube, put the flaring cone, twist it, applying solid efforts (the tube is thick-walled). The flaring is finished when the cone goes no further. We repeat the operation on the other side, then with the other tube.

If you have not rolled pipes before, it is better to practice on unnecessary pieces. The edge should be smooth, with a clear continuous border.

Port connection

We connect the flared edge of the pipe to the corresponding outlet, tighten the nut. No additional gaskets, sealants and the like should be used (forbidden). For this, they take special tubes made of high-quality copper so that they provide sealing without additional funds.

You need to make a serious effort - about 60-70 kg. Only in this case, the copper will flatten out, squeeze the fitting, the connection will become almost monolithic and precisely sealed.

The same operation is repeated with all four outputs.

Vacuuming - why and how to do it

The last stage, which ends with the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, is the removal of air and moisture, argon residues from the system. During installation, humid air from the room or from the street fills the copper pipes. If it is not removed, it will enter the system. As a result, the compressor will work with a greater load, it will heat up more.

The presence of moisture also adversely affects the performance of the system. The fact is that freon, which is filled with air conditioners, contains a certain amount of oil to lubricate the elements from the inside. This oil is hygroscopic, but saturated with water, it lubricates the insides less effectively, and this leads to their premature wear.

From all this it follows that the system will work without air removal, but not for very long and with possible shutdown due to overheating (if there is such an automation).

There are two ways to remove air from the system: using a vacuum pump or some amount of freon released from the outdoor unit (it is charged at the factory and has some excess freon - just in case).

The "puff" method

On the ports of the external unit, unscrew the valve plugs (in the photo they are indicated by arrows).

We will carry out operations with the lower port (larger diameter), which sticks out perpendicular to the body. Under the cover there is a socket for a hexagon, we select a key that is suitable in size.

Under the cover is a valve with a hexagon socket

Next, with this key, turn the valve 90 ° for one second, return it to its previous position. We let some freon into the system, it created excess pressure. We press a finger on the spool, which is located on the same port. By this we release a mixture of freon and gases located there. Press for literally seconds. Part of the mixture should remain so as not to start a new portion of air inside.

You can repeat 2-3 times, no more, the second time you can turn the valve located above. With a track of 2-3 meters - you can 3 times, with a length of 4 meters - only two. Freon is not enough for more.

When the air is practically removed, we screw the plug onto the outlet with the spool (filling), open the control valves (under the hexagon) completely, launching the freon into the system. We coat all joints with soapy foam to make sure that they are airtight. You can run.

Vacuum pump

This operation requires a vacuum pump, a high pressure tube, a group of two pressure gauges - high and low pressure.

Without opening the valves on the control valves, we connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the inlet with the spool, turn on the equipment. It should work 15-30 minutes. During this time, all air, vapors, nitrogen residues are drawn out.

Then the pump is turned off, the pump valve is closed but not disconnected and left for another 15-20 minutes. All this time it is necessary to observe the readings of manometers. If the system is tight, there is no change in pressure, the pressure gauge needles froze in place. If the arrows change their position, there is a leak somewhere and it needs to be fixed. You can find it with soap suds and tighten the connection (usually the problem is at the point where the copper pipes are connected to the outlets of the blocks).

If everything is fine, without disconnecting the pump hose, fully open the valve, which is located below. Some sounds are heard inside the system - freon fills the system. Now, with gloves, quickly twist the hose of the vacuum pump - a certain amount of ice freon can escape from the valve, and you don’t need frostbite. Now we completely unscrew the valve at the top (where a thinner tube is connected).

Why in that order? Because when filling with freon, the system is under pressure, which quickly closes the filling port when the pump is disconnected. That's all, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed, you can turn it on.

In fairness, it must be said that such an operation - vacuuming - is carried out only in Russia and neighboring countries. In the same Israel where air conditioners work all year round, do nothing of the sort. Why is a matter for thought.