How to lay a metal tile with your own hands. The roof won't come off! Do-it-yourself high-quality installation of metal tiles Step-by-step instructions for making a roof for metal tiles

The metal tile is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the building and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how the roof is made of metal tiles with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

The corrugated metal sheets of the now popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in hot zinc tanks, which forms an anti-corrosion film on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell that performs aesthetic and protective functions.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is arranged with violations and errors. In the space under the coating, condensate will begin to accumulate, which will slowly but surely get to the metal. The insulation will get wet and lose its insulating qualities. Wooden elements get wet, as a result of which they rot.

Relying completely on light weight and an impressive area of sheets of material is also not worth it: the rafter system must be strong enough, and the crate must be such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, you should properly prepare for the self-assembly of metal tiles, i.e. get to know the details of the building roof structure, battens and roofing cake.

Rafter system and crate

Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The truss system for the cold type can be built from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach coating sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful roof trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are arranged according to wooden rafters with a crate.

Note that the installation of a roof made of metal tiles is possible on pitched roofs ah with a minimum slope of 14º. The slope of the roofs is from 15º to 20º.

In the construction of a truss system for a warm roof with metal tiles, there are rules, these are:

step between rafter legs must not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing truss system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Laid in a spacer between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the device of the truss structure, then an additional counter-rail of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is stuffed onto the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

In order to ensure ventilation of wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs from the side. The formation of holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, they are advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before the construction of the crate, which works as the basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the truss system should be checked. Measure and verify the length of the diagonals of rectangular slopes. On mansard roofs, the length of the diagonals of each part of the slope is separate. You need to control the horizontal position of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely detection of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

After making sure that the roof trusses are geometrically flawless, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, clear rules apply:

The first lath - the lowest rail on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent ordinary rails. For its construction, it is necessary to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50x50, and for all subsequent 30x50.
The initial rail of the crate should be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30cm. The step between subsequent rails is 30, 35 or 40 cm. the step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
In the process of installing the lathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
In the grooves, around the dormer windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate of boards is arranged.
In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice strip. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the crate, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compound.

The crate plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time performs another very important job. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

ventilation ducts must remain free so that air can flow under the metal sheets without interference and also come out. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing pie.

Structural roof boards

Cornice boards are used to strengthen the slope and make it more rigid if the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drain or to hem overhangs. vinyl siding. In situations where filing is done with a corny board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the truss system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut in the cornice board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the installation of a drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

The frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end plank, the latter covers the waterproofing laid over the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank nailed to the end board prevents the roof from rattling.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, such as KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl spotlights are recommended. Dobora are on sale with the application of connecting details and with the instruction. You can economically hem a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

The specifics of the roofing cake

The composition and structure of the roofing pie under the metal tile depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic is supposed to be hemmed.

The insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from within the truss system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and they are connected into a single canvas with adhesive tape. Between the inner lining of the attic and the vapor barrier, a gap should be created by installing the crate.
Thermal insulation. As a heater, mineral wool boards are most often used, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed at a distance between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the plates are cut with a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the distance between the rafters.
Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against atmospheric precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the truss system in front of the batten, they try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls along the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas where the slopes join, in the valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

An important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of a roofing cake when installing a roof made of metal tiles. Waterproofing must pass steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation.

The method of constructing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

The classic version of waterproofing is reinforced or unreinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the truss system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5cm.
The superdiffusion membrane can work fine with a single ventilation gap of 3-5cm. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using a polymeric material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture out, preventing it from getting inside.
Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. Therefore, this option also needs dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is mainly used in the arrangement of cold roofs.

All types insulating materials, except for polymer waterproofing, are laid with sagging. So it is necessary that when the film is pulled, it does not break. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is placed on the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, an additional waterproofing layer is recommended around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying the coating

Before laying the metal tile, it is mandatory to install:

Eaves strips, excluding penetration into roof space dust and debris. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The slats are attached to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws in increments of 30cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with an interference fit.
Cornice droppers, which are located under waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
A lower valley that reinforces the protection of the concave corners of the roof. It is a metal corner that repeats the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat grooves, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous sealant is covered over the lower valley.
Protective bypass around chimneys crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a strobe formed in the pipe walls and treated with a sealant. Stitching into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging adjoining walls.
Lightning conductor required for safe operation metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum barØ 12mm length from 20cm to 1.5m. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wire Ø 6 mm welded to the lightning rod. They lay a down conductor along the crate and along the walls, lead to the ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of 1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying sheets of metal

Before laying profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting material to the roof. In order not to lift the coating one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage at the top. More home master you will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving along the roof. The work contractor is allowed to step only into the deflections of profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move even to the left, even to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the capillary groove overlaps with the sheet laid on top. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act in such a way that the element laid on top immediately fits under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This way it stays in place and doesn't slide off.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for the installation of metal tiles:

Starting sheets are attached to the first lath through the wave on top of the transverse step of the cover. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the eaves.
All subsequent fastening of sheets is carried out in recessions of waves from below the transverse step.
Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is flawless, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, leveled and temporarily fixed in the same way. Aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all the required points. Only the outer sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material will also have to be fastened to each other. Sheets in height are increased vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on slopes of a triangular shape:

We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, we verify the horizontal and vertical.
Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the coating in the usual way.

After fastening the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

The convenience of trimming with marking material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will provide a home-made "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple fixture will help to accurately outline the cut segments.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
Screw the end plate to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
Screw the top bar of the valley, having laid a self-expanding sealant on the coating beforehand.
Build a horse. To do this, the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge is glued on the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through a convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

Mounted on the laid coating drainage system, snow guards, service ladders and guardrails, if planned.

An excellent consolidation of information about the device on the roof of a solid roof made of metal tiles with their master's hands will be detailed video instruction:

There are many nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not again have to change the roof to the next option.

Metal roofing is becoming more and more popular every day. This is an excellent roofing material with an optimal ratio of performance and cost. The metal tile is suitable for finishing roofs of almost any complexity. At the same time, you can cope with the tasks of installing the material with your own hands.

The metal tile is made in the form of galvanized sheet material made on the basis of steel. The composition of the sheet includes several layers that perform important protective or decorative functions.

zinc layer. It is the basis for applying the following layers. Additionally prevents the development of corrosion.
passivation layer. Prevents the accumulation of static electricity.
Priming layer. Provides the highest quality adhesion of the previous and next layers of the metal tile sheet.
polymer layer. Protects the material from adverse external influences and gives it the required appearance. The finish can be matte or glossy. Many color variations are available, which allows you to choose a roofing material that fully satisfies the needs of the owner.

The metal tile has many advantages over other popular roofing materials, namely:

light weight. Many excellent roofing materials are available on the market today, but the possibility of using many of them is limited precisely because of the large weight. modern houses are increasingly being built from the "lungs" building materials And they don't need any extra work. The metal tile, on the other hand, weighs a little, so it can be safely used even for roofing the roofs of houses built on weak foundations;
many color variations. It is hardly possible to find another roofing material presented in such a variety of colors as metal tiles;
good specifications. The metal tile is steady against atmospheric and other adverse influences. Installation of sheets can be performed at any time of the year;
relatively affordable cost. Metal tile significantly outperforms other coatings with similar parameters in price. natural tile it costs much more, although its properties practically do not differ from the characteristics of modern high-quality steel sheets.

The metal tile looks great on the roofs of almost any buildings. It is best suited for large and respectable houses and cottages, however, if desired, you can develop an excellent roofing project even for a small country house.

Video - Do-it-yourself metal tile installation instruction

Before starting the arrangement of the crate and fastening the sheets of metal tiles directly, it is necessary to think about reliable and high-quality waterproofing. Thanks to the moisture insulating material, the possibility of condensation on the internal surfaces of the elements of the roofing system will be excluded, which will contribute to a significant increase in their service life.

The most popular waterproofing option is polyethylene film. This affordable material perfectly copes with all the tasks assigned to it.

Waterproofing should be laid on the rafters under the counter beam. Individual pieces of film are laid with an overlap of about 15-17 cm. The sag of the film between the rafters can be no more than 1.5-2 cm. To fix the film, use galvanized nails or a construction stapler with metal staples. Glue the waterproofing joints with adhesive tape. It is desirable that it be metallized.

The technology of metal tile roofing requires the mandatory installation of insulation. It is most convenient to use mineral wool slabs. The material is laid between the rafter legs. For fixing the plates, the construction stapler already familiar to you is perfect.

Lathing device

The metal tile will be laid on top of a supporting structure known as a batten. The frame of the system is assembled from wooden planks about 100 mm wide and 25-30 mm thick. All wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, the wood will rot in a fairly short time.

The crate is attached in the interval between laying the waterproofing and installing the insulation. The task is reduced to attaching wooden boards or bars to the rafters. Start fastening from the ridge roof structure, gradually moving vertically down to the eaves. Fix the elements of the crate in a horizontal position. Use nails of the correct length. As a rule, boards are mounted in a continuous sheet.

Laying roofing material

Laying of metal tiles should begin from the bottom corner of the roof slope. It is best to start from the bottom left corner. In this case, each next sheet will overlap the previous one. If you start the installation of the coating from the right corner, the next sheet of metal tiles will have to be placed under the already laid material. It is undesirable to do so, because with such installation, there is a high probability of damage to the roofing.

Laying of metal tiles should be carried out parallel to the eaves. Do not forget to leave an overhang behind the eaves of about 4 cm. There is a technology according to which sheets of metal tiles can be laid vertically. But in the absence of proper experience in roofing, it is better to refuse this method, opting for a more traditional and simple horizontal installation.

When laying, you will need to rotate the corners slightly clockwise. This is done so that the right corners of the elements laid in the same row are located along a single straight line.

To fix adjacent sheets, 1 self-tapping screw is used. Such a preliminary fastening is placed at the top of the sheet. After that, you need to align the elements of the system and perform their final fixation.

Lay the longest sheets of metal tiles in the bottom row. With this option, installation is greatly facilitated, and the finished coating takes on a more solid and attractive appearance.

Approximately 7-8 self-tapping screws are used per 1 m2 of coating. Attach sheets to shear waves, screwing the screws in 35 cm increments. You can also install self-tapping screws in longitudinal waves. With this method, it is necessary to fasten through the wave, placing self-tapping screws in the upper ridges.

An electric screwdriver is best suited for tightening self-tapping screws. An electric drill will work too. The main thing is that it has the function of slow and smooth rotation of the cartridge. To achieve greater fastening accuracy, it is recommended to punch the hole in advance.

Cover sheets must be fixed in the lower crest of the wave, where the material is pressed against the crate. This will create the most reliable fastening and not deform the material.

The bottom sheets of the metal tile must be fastened to the first purlin in each wave, without gaps. This section will be subjected to the most powerful wind loads, so the fastening must be as reliable as possible so that the sheets are not torn off at the first strong gust of wind.

Fasten to other purlins at a minimum distance from below to the step. At this point, the sheet material has the highest rigidity. In addition, with this arrangement, the screws will be almost invisible.

In places of overlap, sheets of metal tiles must be fixed through a wave. If you wish, you can fix each wave. This will ensure the highest quality fit of the upper sheet elements.

For fixing roofing material, galvanized self-tapping screws made of alloy steel are best suited. Stainless steel self-tapping screws with a sealant also proved to be excellent. Such fasteners can have a wide variety of colors, which will allow you to create the optimal color combination of self-tapping screws and the main coating.

Self-tapping screws are screwed strictly perpendicular to the elements of the crate. Deviations are not allowed. Sheets of metal tiles should be attracted to the crate as tightly as possible. Any distortion of self-tapping screws can lead to the appearance through holes in sheets. If the roof will be exposed to prolonged exposure to an acidic or alkaline environment, self-tapping screws with plastic caps should be used to fix the metal tile.

3-4 months after the completion of the roofing work, check the self-tapping screws. Under the influence of wind loads, fasteners usually weaken. Tighten loose screws.

Thus, in self-assembly metal roofing is no big deal. Follow the instructions, stick to the recommendations received and everything will work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself metal tile installation instructions

Metal tile - one of the most popular among owners country houses roofing materials. In addition to excellent performance, it has another important advantage - ease of installation. You can cover the roof with roofing sheets of this variety yourself.

What tools and materials will be needed

Screwdriver and hammer;
Electric hacksaws and scissors;
Long rail and marker.

An electric saw is needed for cutting rafters and boards. Using scissors for metal, metal tiles are cut.

This material cannot be cut with a grinder. Otherwise, due to damage to the top layer by sparks, the sheets will not last long and you will have to repair the roof with reinstallation of the roofing material.

From the materials you will need to prepare:

Beam under the rafters 50x150 mm;
Beam under Mauerlat 150x150 mm;
Lathing board 25x100 mm;
Rail 30x50 mm under the counter-lattice;
Membrane-waterproofer;
mineral wool;
Consumables.

The cross section of lumber is maintained without fail. Otherwise, the owners of the house will have to repair the roof or even reinstall it soon after assembly.

In addition to the metal tile itself, it will be necessary to purchase various additional elements: cornice and end strips, valleys, ridge element, chimney apron, snow retainers, etc.

Additional elements for metal tiles

How much can a metal roofing cost?

The cost of a roof made of this material depends on several factors:

Type polymer coating material;
The complexity of the roof configuration;
Type of insulation used;
Roof size.

On average, 1 m2 of a metal tile roof costs about 1000 rubles. Therefore, it will not be difficult to make a preliminary rough calculation. To do this, the roof area in square meters should simply be multiplied by 1000.

Features of the construction of a roof from a metal tile

Of course, the installation of this material on the installed frame should be done correctly. This applies to both the assembly of the rafter system, and the cutting, and installation of the sheets themselves. For a long time, you will not have to do roof repairs even if the sheathing is properly waterproofed.

Preparatory work

The device of the rafter system begins with the measurement of all walls and the elimination of discrepancies in their sizes. The more even structural elements boxes at home, the less in the future you will have to spend energy on fitting the rafter legs. All lumber before starting work on assembling the roof must be dried under a canopy for several months. The Mauerlat is installed first, and then the beams under the floor.

Material measurements

In order to draw up a roof plan, you should make all sorts of measurements. For example, all the videos available on this topic on the Internet represent this process as follows:

First of all, measure the exact length of all the walls of the box. Based on this, the area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes is determined;
Determine where the chimney, vents, skylights etc.

In accordance with the results obtained, further calculation of sheets and timber is made.

Lumber calculation

After the roof project has been drawn up, you can begin to calculate the necessary lumber. Their number depends primarily on the angle of inclination of the slopes and the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof. Most often under a metal tile it is arranged gable roof with a slope of 30-35 gr.

The number of timber on the rafter legs is determined depending on the step with which they are going to be installed, the height of the roof and its dimensions.

The length of one leg is calculated by the formula c \u003d √ (v2 + m2), where v is the height of the roof, and m is half the span.

The step between the rafter legs on a roof with a metal roof is usually 80–100 cm (depending on the width of the sheets). You can calculate the required number of rafters as follows:

Divide the length of the wall by the selected step;
Add one to the result and round everything up.

The system of rafters for metal tiles does not require any additional reinforcements. The amount of material needed for the crate is calculated based on the fact that the step between its elements should be 35–40 cm.

Assembling the truss system

The device of the roof frame is made according to the following technology:

Mauerlat is fixed on the walls. You can fix it with studs embedded in the masonry, or on anchor bolts cast into the upper reinforcing belt;
Mount the rafters. The easiest way is to fix the legs on the support beam by means of corners (preferably galvanized ones, otherwise the roof will have to be repaired with their replacement soon). The top of the rafters is most often cut at an appropriate angle and fastened in pairs with steel strips and crossbars.

Roof frame device

On large and high roofs, a ridge beam is often used. In this case, the rafters are fixed with planks above it and additionally attracted to it with corners. The ridge beam itself is mounted on racks fixed on the Mauerlat of the short walls of the house box.

Hydro and thermal insulation device

Sometimes it is arranged from a metal tile and cold roof. However, most often it is still insulated, as this significantly improves its performance. As a support for the heat insulator from the side of the attic, a wire or a sparse plank crate is used. Insert cotton wool between the rafters by surprise. From above it must be covered with waterproofing material, fixing it with bars.

Waterproofing scheme

The strips are placed horizontally with an overlap of 15 cm. Do not stretch the film too much. Otherwise, when the truss system moves due to shrinkage of the walls and wind, it may break. The sag of the film should be about 2 cm.

roof lathing

It is correct to assemble the base for the metal tile from fairly wide boards (at least 20 cm). Narrow material under the influence of adverse weather factors may warp. The device of the crate is made using a pole and a building level.

The distance between the first two boards from the bottom of the crate should be very small - 10–15 cm. The crate is arranged with the elements fastened to two nails to each rafter. Thus, it is possible to assemble a reliable base for sheets of metal tiles.

How to correctly calculate the metal tile

After assembling the lathing, you can install the roofing sheets themselves. But of course, you must first exact calculation their required number. A video demonstrating the process of performing these operations is available on the Internet. You can, of course, look at it, but in principle there is nothing complicated in such a calculation. Perform this operation like this:

Calculate the area of each slope;
Calculate the number of sheets needed to cover it, taking into account their width and length;
Add up the results.

How to properly mount cornice strips and lower valleys

The instructions for attaching these elements are simple. cornice plank mounted before the installation of sheets. The frontal board is pre-stuffed. Drainage brackets are attached to it. Next, you can proceed to the actual fastening of the bar itself.

Installation of the cornice strip

Another element that needs to be installed before the start of sheathing the slopes with metal tiles is the lower protective valleys. Their installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

The crate under the valley should be solid;
Installation of the elements of the valley starts from the bottom up;
Each lower element should be overlapped by the upper one by at least 10 cm.

The choice of metal tiles

There are several types of metal tiles. When choosing this material, consider that:

Only sheets made of steel of at least 0.45 mm are considered reliable;
V middle lane Roofs in Russia are usually covered with inexpensive sheets with a polyester protective layer;
Warranty period for good material is at least 10-15 years. The owners of the house who bought such material will not have to pay for its repair in case of any problems.

Sheet mounting

So, now let's see how to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands. The installation of sheets starts from the bottom. When assembling the first row, a cornice overhang about 5 cm wide is arranged. Actually the instruction for filing itself looks like this:

The first sheet is fastened with one self-tapping screw at the very top;
Then several more sheets (2–3) are attached to it along the side edge;
The entire pack is carefully aligned and fixed to the roof frame.

Installation of additional elements

After all the slopes are sheathed, you can proceed with the installation of additional elements. First, the upper planks of the valleys are attached. In this case, they perform mainly a purely decorative function. They are mounted on a self-expanding seal.

At the next stage, end elements are fixed on the gables. Next is the installation of the skate. Attach it in the same way as the upper valleys on the sealing tape.

Mansard roof roof

The device of the truss system mansard roof is done like this:

Racks for layered rafters, runs and puffs are attached;
The horse is installed. Its racks are fixed in the middle of the puffs;
Layered and then hanging rafters are mounted;
The lathing is stuffed taking into account the characteristics of the roofing material.

The sheathing of the layered rafters is first sheathed with a metal tile, and then the hanging ones. On the latter, as well as on the eaves, an overhang is made.

Some subtleties of metal tile installation

Work on the installation of sheets should be carried out by at least two people, observing the following recommendations:

The capillary grooves must be completely covered by the next sheets in a row;
All sheets must be carefully aligned parallel to the eaves.

We cut the roof: how to get around the chimney

Scheme of bypassing the pipe with metal tiles

The device of a metal-tiled roof should be such that in the area where the material adjoins the chimney pipe, water does not seep into the under-roof space. To solve this problem, special aprons are used. The instructions for their installation are as follows:

Before laying the metal tile, a continuous crate is stuffed around the pipe. A waterproofing material is glued onto it with an overlap on the pipe walls of 15–20 cm. A strobe is made in the chimney itself around the entire perimeter.
After laying the metal tile, the lower apron is mounted first, and then the upper one. The bent edges of their vertical parts are wound into a strobe.

The subtleties of installing cornice strips

The eaves and end strips must be fixed to the wood of the frame in increments of about 30 cm. If this condition is not met, they may subsequently move away, and no one will have to carry out repairs that are needed. Butt-mounting them is highly not recommended. Each subsequent plank should overlap the previous one by at least 1 cm. These elements are fastened with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern.

Installation of valleys: features

The lower valley should be fixed with self-tapping screws into each crate. Its overlap on the slopes should be at least 25 cm. In this case, it will not be necessary to repair the roof due to a rotten frame. The upper valley is mounted in such a way as not to damage the lower one. They fasten it to the metal tile either on special corners or on self-tapping screws at the top of the wave (in each).

Fixing sheets on roof breaks

Roof break device

As already mentioned, on the attic broken roofs the metal tile at the break is laid with an overhang. Before installation, at the same time, a drop bar is usually mounted (in increments of 30 cm) on the ribs of the slopes of such a truss system.

Sometimes there is another type of fracture in the roof configuration - with a negative angle. They close it in much the same way as the valleys. The carpet in this case is laid so wide that on upper part he went at least 35 cm to the slope, and 15 cm to the lower one. The crate under it should also be solid.

Installation of snow retainers

This additional element is mounted on sloping roofs to avoid snow "avalanches". Installation instructions for snow retainers include the following steps:

Fastening is done with long self-tapping screws in the purlins;
Holes must be made in the metal tile and laid with rubber seals;
Screw the brackets correctly at a distance of at least 35 cm from the eaves.

Installation of lightning protection

Scheme of lightning protection of a roof made of metal

This system must be assembled without fail. If the lightning is attracted by the metal of the coating, it will be necessary to carry out costly repairs to the roof. And of course, a natural electrical discharge is a very dangerous phenomenon for those living in the house. Lightning protection is assembled from the following elements:

Lightning rod, which is a rod with a length of 5 m;
Down conductor (wire with a round cross section);
Ground electrode from a metal strip with a thickness of at least 150 mm.

The lightning rod is fixed on the roof ridge. A wire is wrapped around the chimney and connected to the middle of the rod. The grounding conductor is dug into the ground to a depth of at least 80 cm and connected to the lightning rod by means of a down conductor.

Safety

When installing sheets of metal tiles, the following safety rules are observed:

Cutting sheets and their installation on the roof is carried out in mittens;
Take sheets by the edges from the sides;
To move along long slopes, special stairs are used;
On the roof they walk in soft shoes. In this case, it will not need early repair due to damage to the coating.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of a metal tile is a relatively simple matter. Numerous videos and photos available on the network confirm this. The rafter system for this material may not be too powerful, since its weight is not particularly large. The rafters and the crate in this case are mounted according to the standard method. When installing the sheets themselves, you should adhere to all the required technologies: do not cut the material with a grinder and correctly fasten all additional elements. In this case, the roof will turn out to be reliable and its repair will not be required as long as possible.
Detailed instructions for installing a roof made of metal tiles are presented in the video.

In many respects, metal tiles are better than other roofing materials such as galvanized sheet, slate or shingles. The laying of this material is usually trusted to specialists, but if you have a desire, then installation work you can do it yourself.

Carrying out calculations

Before starting work, the master should understand quite important point. Externally, a metal roof looks like many rows that run across the slope. The distance between rows is called a step. If a tile sheet has a pitch of 35 cm and 6 waves, then it is called a module. On the modern building materials market, canvases are offered that have a maximum of 10 modules. The minimum value is one.

If you wish, you can order tiles, guided by individual sizes. However, such material will cost much more. The length of the sheet should not be more than 7 m, and the minimum value is 45 cm. You can install the metal tile yourself (you must study the instructions) yourself. After reviewing it, you will be able to understand that in the calculations it is necessary to take into account that the waves and joints form an integral canvas along the length of the slope. If you determine the number of modules, you can calculate the amount of material that should be purchased.

The kit usually comes with steel two-meter strips, as well as steel sheets, the color of which is identical to the color of the metal tile. Planks are used for those roofs that have a slope of 30°. However, if desired, you can adjust the slope in the range from 11 to 70 °. When making calculations, it is important to take into account not the full, but the working, that is, the useful width of the material. In the first case, the value is 1180 mm, while in the second it is 1100 mm.

First you need to measure the length of the horizontal slope. The calculation must be carried out on the ridge or eaves. This value is divided by the working width of the sheet, which was mentioned above. The result obtained is rounded up, this will allow you to get the number of rows, taking into account the overlap. In general, it is possible to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe covered surface, and then the useful area of one sheet. The first value is divided by the second, which allows you to get the number of sheets that you have to purchase.

Making a roofing cake

The system provides for the presence of a vapor barrier layer. It is laid inside the rafters from the side of the house. To do this, you can use the staples of a construction stapler. This will prevent steam from entering the heater. Otherwise, the process of decay may begin.

The technology of laying metal tiles provides for the location of the insulation on top of the truss system. Mineral wool is perfect for this. For waterproofing, you can use anti-condensation films or classic waterproofing. This is where the preparation ends.

Lathing installation

The roof lathing is necessary in order to provide a ventilation gap between the sheet of metal and the film. Otherwise, in the place where the metal will adjoin the film, the layer will quickly lose its properties.

For the roof sheathing, it is necessary to use a rail, the length and section of which are 135 cm and 30 mm, respectively. If you decide to use transmissive superdiffusion membranes, then the counter-lattice is not needed.

Preparation of tools and materials

Order means following the rules. At the first stage, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials, among them:

metal scissors;
electric drill driver;
measuring device;
marker;
ladder;
long rail;
mounting tape;
hammer;
personal protective equipment;
waterproofing;
roofing strips;
slats for the ridge and ends;
self-tapping screws;
guide board;
tiles;
aero roller;
decorative overlays;
boards.

As for the latter, their size should be 2.5x10 cm.

Foundation preparation

Due to the fact that the metal tile has a small weight, it does not need a reinforced base, so you will need a regular wooden crate made of slats. The distance between them is determined by the size of the tiles, so as not to drive the screws into the void during installation. When determining the step, the location of the windows should also be taken into account, because there should not be rafters above them.

thermal insulation

The rules for the installation of metal tiles necessarily provide for the use of a heat-insulating layer. This stage is required not only to eliminate heat loss, but also to protect against noise during rain. The rafters are covered vapor barrier material, it may be "Izospan" or "Yutafol". The next step will be laying the insulation layer, then lay the antioxidant film and fix it to the rafters wooden blocks. The material between them should sag a little so that the condensate drains into the drain.

Installation of metal tiles

From metal tiles and the calculation of materials, you can do it yourself. All instructions for this are presented in the article. Installation of canvases can be done in one of two ways. If you work, starting on the right, then each new sheet will fit on the previous one. In order for the installation to be correct, four sheets are first tacked and aligned, and then the connection can be made with a self-tapping screw. This fixture must have good quality, because the life of the coating depends on it.

The screws must be galvanized with propylene rubber sealing heads. This will close the holes when twisting. In the place where the four sheets are connected, a thickening will form. You need to get rid of it by cutting off part of the corner or straightening the capillary groove, which is located under the stamping line.

Installation of individual elements

Installation is carried out with an overlap of 2 cm. It is necessary to adjust the size of the wave to the width of the slope, otherwise the crest may end up on the pediment. The system should be supplemented with a roofing strip, and an additional sealing layer must be placed between it and the sheet material.

When windows or pipes located below the ridge are being equipped, it is necessary to take sheets with one module. For each structural element, you will need two such nodes. Step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles for dummies involve installing an aero roller with sloping slopes. This element must be located between the ridge bar and the material. This will prevent the penetration of atmospheric precipitation under the ridge. The last node is installed on the slats, which are located at the ends of the structure. This is done so that the skate protrudes 3 cm.

Mounting a ridge on a metal tile will require some nuances to be observed if this part of the system is flat. In this case, all elements are fixed with an overlap. Whereas if the skate is semicircular, then it is necessary to follow the lines of the profile. When the roof slope exceeds 45°, the compatibility of a particular model of ridge batten must be checked in advance. It should be at an angle. If this is not done, then the consequences can be disastrous, sometimes you even have to replace roofing. You can bend and unbend the ridge slats, if necessary, so that they follow the angle of the roof.

Arrangement of the valley

Each valley requires an additional board. Installation starts from the bottom and is carried out with an overlap of 30 cm. Under the ridge and flanging it is necessary to lay a sealant.

There will be a 10 cm gap between the sheets and the axle. Stepping back 1.5 cm from the stamping line, it is necessary to tighten the screws. If you did everything correctly, then after completing the work, you can make sure that at the place of fastening the sheet is in contact with the board where the valley is located. If you made mistakes, then the fasteners will be in other places, and the consequence will be that gaps form on the surface through which the roof will leak.

In order to cover the cut sheets during the installation of metal tiles, the step-by-step instructions of which are presented in the article, it is necessary to stock up on decorative overlays. There is no need to lay a sealant between them and the tiles. Products must be installed with a 10 cm overlap. It is important to exclude damage to the valley with self-tapping screws that are used to fix the overlays.

Quite often, the end and the beginning of the valley are located on the slope of the roof. If we take the installation of a dormer window as an example, then a separate board must be placed under the valley. For a window, a cutout should be made in the sheet, while a sealing material is located along the walls. At the same time, the plank will be able to cover the cornice overhang. Then the valley strips are installed, which are cut off at the edges. The protruding part will fit snugly against the tile sheet.

Installation of snow guards

Depending on which design features have snow retainers, today there are several technologies for their installation. At the same time, it is important to take into account the calculated power load, the type of roof and the location of structures on the surface.

On a metal tile, the instruction of which is presented in the article, provides for determining the number of profiles. In the future, they will be fixed on the brackets of the system. The number of profiles is determined taking into account the geometry of the roof. For those areas where snow accumulation is expected, glass holders should be installed in two levels. With an impressive roof area, the number of rows of the structure increases.

The placement of snow retainers is planned at the design stage of the coating; at the locations of these nodes, it is necessary to strengthen the crate with the help of additional support boards. The technology of laying metal tiles provides for the installation of snow retainers, which are fixed with long self-tapping screws fixed to the crate. Fasteners must go through the roofing.

When determining the number of fasteners, the angle of inclination of the roof, the design of the crate and the length of the slope should be taken into account. The sealing of the holes for the snow retainers must be carried out without fail, it is necessary to use rubber gaskets. Two seals are installed under the bottom mount. The distance between the fasteners must be equal to the limit from 0.5 to 1 m. The profile with an oval section or the pipe is inserted into the brackets. The elements are interconnected by through bolts.

On top of the waterproofing layer, another crate is made, then you can proceed to laying the sheets. After installing the first row, it must be aligned with the eaves. With the help of a roofing screw, the canvas is attached in the center. Laying the second sheet is carried out with an overlap on the first.

At the next stage of the installation of metal tiles (step-by-step instructions are presented in the article and should be studied by you), you can fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws already thoroughly. After that, the metal tile is attached to the crate, but the last sheet acts as an exception, which must be fixed only after the second row has been laid.

If you want to mount in several rows, then you need to work from right to left. The first three canvases are stacked according to the scheme that was described above. Self-tapping screws do not need to be screwed in completely so that you have the opportunity to align the sheets. The fourth canvas lies over the third, this will allow you to close the entire slope.

After you lay out all the sheets, you can screw in the screws until they stop. Installation of metal tiles, the step-by-step instructions of which will be of interest to you if you plan to carry out the work yourself, involves installing the ridge last, because the sheets are laid from top to bottom. All subsequent rows should be slipped under the previous ones. It is important to choose self-tapping screws, the color of which will match the color of the material. It must be remembered that the metal tile is strong, but light enough, so it can be blown away by a gust of wind. It does not matter where the material is located - on the roof or on the ground.

How to avoid mistakes

The step-by-step instructions for installing a metal tile must be followed by you. It provides for following some rules, among which should be highlighted the ban on working in shoes with hard soles, as well as on the impact on the crest of the wave. You can not step on the canvas with a full foot. Masters need to remember that you should not put your foot perpendicular to the ramp. Material should not be handled with bare hands.

Conclusion

Quite often, the owners of suburban real estate and houses within the city entrust the installation of roofing material to specialists. If you also decide to follow their example, then you should be interested in the cost of the work. Installation of metal tiles costs 380 rubles. per square meter. However, to these works it is necessary to add the price of some other services, for example, the installation of component parts. They cost consumers 250 rubles. per running metre. performed at 450 rubles. per running metre.

However, this list cannot be called complete. It will also be necessary to install layers of heat and waterproofing, without which the roof will leak, and the materials at its base will be saturated with moisture.

The metal tile belongs to modern roofing materials, differs in high esthetics and durability. In addition to the rather significant cost of the material itself, considerable costs are required for its installation - in Moscow from 500 to 650 rubles per m 2. Therefore, it makes sense to do this work yourself.

We cover the roof with metal tiles - material calculation

A do-it-yourself roofing device made of metal tiles will help out when it is being built new house or it's time to replace the coating on the roof, but there is not enough money to pay for the work. The properties of the material favorably distinguish it from other coatings:

everyone can choose at their own discretion the color and profile among a variety of options;
due to its low weight, it is not difficult to install the crate;
the roof has an exquisite look;
the material serves for decades without repair.

Arranging a roof made of metal tiles, we calculate how much material is needed for installation. The documentation for the coating indicates two sizes - the total width and working. We take into account the working width, which is slightly less than the total. First, we find out how many rows will fit vertically: we measure the width of the slope, then divide it by the working width. The result is rounded up to the next higher value.

Then, vertically, we calculate the length of the row, find out how many sheets are needed. To calculate the length, we summarize the distance from the eaves to the ridge, the overlap of the sheets and the length of the overhang. The overhang is usually made about 50 mm, the size depends on the thickness and rigidity of the metal. The overlap - from 150 to 250 mm - is determined, taking into account the characteristics of the material and the angle of the roof, the thinner the tile and the smaller the slope, the greater the overlap.

In this way, the material required for a rectangular gable roof. For structures with a complex configuration, the calculation is made for each slope separately, the results are summarized.

Waste is determined by the difference between the original value and the rounded value. The least waste can be obtained if the calculations are carried out before the design of the roof. Then, for a conventional roof, the width of the slope is adjusted by increasing the length of the crate, which protrudes beyond the gables. It is impossible to do this on the finished roof; one should proceed from the existing parameters.

When calculating the need for material during the construction of a roof made of metal, we take into account the width of the ridge. If you use a wide skate with 165 mm blades, then sheets on opposite slopes can be placed with a gap of up to 50 mm. The slope can be adjusted with boards (fillies), which lengthen the rafters and create an overhang. On the filly they take out from all sides to the same length.

Preparatory work - assembly of rafters and battens

Before covering metal roofs, arrange rafters from beams with a section of 150 or 100 by 50 mm. The same distance of 60–90 cm is maintained between them, if more is done, the sheets will bend. We use dry wood, with a moisture content of 22% or less. We pre-treat with antiseptics and impregnate with a fire-fighting solution. The roof slopes must form a flat plane, be rectangular, otherwise it is possible that the sheets at the joints will not converge, moisture will get under the roof.

We take two pieces of rope of such length that it is enough to block the roof diagonally. They should lightly touch the rafters, not be far from them or supported by them, but simply lie on the bars. We measure the length of the ropes, the difference should not exceed 10 mm, which indicates the squareness of the roof. If defects are found, we fix them. For large distortions, it may be necessary to reinstall some rafters.

Next, we cut grooves in the cornices, attach a cornice board to them, which gives the whole structure additional reliability and serves for installation on gutter hooks. Even greater rigidity will be provided by the frontal board, which we install at the ends of the rafters. We attach a bar to the wall of buildings, placing it at the same height as the frontal board. Between them we mount the crossbars, which form a crate for filing.

We lay the crate along the rafters parallel to the eaves, the first two boards after 28 cm, the next - after 35. In places where the chimney, attic windows and similar elements are installed, we make the sheathing solid at the junction of the slopes. The skate should be securely fastened, so we attach additional boards on both sides.

We care about long-term service - we do ventilation and waterproofing

Properly executed ventilation and good insulation help to ensure long-term operation of a metal tile roofing. Insulating elements are collectively called a roofing pie: it prevents the penetration of water and dust under the roof. The type of insulation depends on the type of roof chosen. For cold, we lay waterproofing, for warm - vapor barrier. We lay a film along the roof along the rafters, attaching it with a stapler. We install a counter-lattice on top.

For a warm roof, we mount several layers, vapor barrier - under the crate from the inside. The next layer is insulation, we fill it loosely so that the waterproofing sags between the rafters by about 20 mm. This ensures the blowing of the insulation, getting rid of moisture. We fix the waterproofing with bars 50 × 50 mm, install a crate for the roof on top.

When we fix the cornice sheathing, we do not install the material tightly, we leave gaps. They will act as ventilation gaps. We close the cracks with a fine mesh so that birds and insects do not penetrate through them. For effective ventilation, the area of \u200b\u200bholes should be calculated. It should occupy a hundredth of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe slope. But holes are also needed on the ridge so that air can escape through them. We divide the area of \u200b\u200bthe slope by 2 - half of the area of \u200b\u200bthe ventilation holes falls on the eaves sheathing, the second - on the holes in the ridge.

Installation of metal tiles - cover the roof correctly

A roof covered with metal tiles can be durable and reliable if you follow some installation rules:

1. Installation is carried out by wearing soft shoes so as not to damage the top layer. We walk along the roof, stepping between the waves, in the transverse direction we go along the crease.
2. It is possible for water to seep through the overlaps when it rains. To avoid this, each sheet has a groove for water drainage. When laying, make sure that the grooves of the sheets match.
3. We always start the installation from the side that forms a right angle, and you do not have to cut the metal tile. It doesn't matter if it's right or left side, we lay it in any direction, as long as it would be convenient.

We mount the sheets with our own hands according to the instructions in a single-row or multi-row way. With the single-row method, we temporarily fix the first sheet in the center near the ridge, focusing on the end and cornice. We impose the following sheets, capturing the previous waves from above, leveling, fastening. We lay out, align and connect no more than four sheets in a row. The resulting block is equal to the cornice, fastened to the crate, except for the last sheet. It is attached after adjusting the next block.

Multi-row installation starts from the bottom, we align the sheets, focusing on the end and cornice. The following sheets are laid vertically, providing an overlap and temporarily attaching in the center. Align from bottom to top, fasten with screws to the crate. We also mount the following rows vertically, align and fasten.

Mounting the tiles on a triangular slope, we mark the center line on the sheet. On the crate we outline the same line. We combine the lines of the crate and the tiles, we fasten the sheet from above at the ridge. Then we carry out installation similar to the previous methods on both sides. We cut the sheets on the roof using a dash - a device made of two boards 100 mm wide, easily fastened together by two others.