Restoration of wooden windows and old window frames. Putty for windows Do-it-yourself putty for windows

Both individuals and organizations can purchase enamels for windows and doors both in the online store and in Leroy Merlin retail stores. These products have all the necessary certificates, are distinguished by excellent technical and operational characteristics. We buy varnishes and enamels in significant quantities directly from their manufacturers, which allows us to sell them at the most attractive prices. In addition, at the request of buyers, delivery of these goods is organized.

Leroy Merlin offers wide choose goods at low prices for residents of Moscow, as well as cities of the Moscow region: Balashikha, Podolsk, Khimki, Korolev, Mytishchi, Lyubertsy, Krasnogorsk, Elektrostal, Kolomna, Odintsovo, Domodedovo, Serpukhov, Schelkovo, Orekhovo-Zuevo, Ramenskoye, Dolgoprudny, Zhukovsky, Pushkino, Reutov, Sergiev Posad, Voskresensk, Lobnya, Klin, Ivanteevka, Dubna, Egorievsk, Chekhov, Dmitrov, Vidnoe, Stupino, Pavlovsky Posad, Naro-Fominsk, Fryazino, Lytkarino, Dzerzhinsky and Solnechnogorsk. You can order the necessary goods online with delivery to all these cities or visit one of our retailers.

Preparing windows for painting puttying and polishing windows

We have already talked about how to remove paint from windows. Now consider the next stage of preparing windows for painting, namely, puttying and grinding wooden windows. This is a very important stage of repair, since the quality of its implementation depends appearance window frames.

After all, how can you like windows with cracked frames and cracked window sills? It is unlikely, because it looks very unsightly. Therefore, it is worth learning how to level the surface of already cleaned windows. As a rule, window putty, a flute brush, spatulas and a sanding cloth are used for this.

After old paint removed, treated with antifungal agents and dried, it may seem that it is suitable for staining. However, this is not always the case, but only in the case of perfectly even and smooth slopes of the opening, window sill and frame. This is rare and mostly only on new windows. In addition, a new window also needs to be prepared for painting. And about the old wooden frames, which in some dwellings are often older than the owners, it’s not worth talking about.

Properties of epoxy putty

Epoxy putties are two-component formulations. Their basis is formed by petroleum resin, pigment additives and organic solvents in the form of special plasticizers. The result is durable filler of defects, resistant to deformations and destruction of various nature. Epoxy putty for wood owes its popularity to a large extent to organic interaction with the structure of this material. It forms a reliable connection, which is resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. For this reason, it is often used in outdoor work before painting.

Unlike many additional processing agents, such formulations do not have a strong chemical smell and do not shrink. But the coating can be sanded. When determining which putties are best suited for preparing exterior finish material for further painting, epoxy compounds should be considered first. They are not only characterized by resistance to external influences, but also act as an excellent base for the final decorative design. True, such coatings harden for quite a long time - it may be required up to 24 hours for complete drying.

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Slope Leveling Technology

Now about how to properly putty the slopes on the windows.

The technology depends on the degree of curvature, the presence or absence of serious defects on the surface. If they are already plastered, then you just have to smooth the plane with finishing putty to get rid of small potholes, scratches, cracks and roughness.

Take for example more difficult option when slopes require leveling. In this case, the main work is done with a starting putty, which can be applied in a sufficiently thick layer, several layers can be applied.

It is important. Before proceeding with finishing, make sure that the ambient temperature is not lower than +10 degrees if using a gypsum mixture, and not lower than +5 degrees if cement

The instruction for the production of work is as follows:

Measure the width and height of the window opening with a tape measure, cut pieces of the desired size from the perforated corners.
Using a drill with a mixer attachment, prepare the putty mortar. Its quantity should be such as you can use before it loses viability. This parameter is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
Check the building level for the verticality and horizontality of the corresponding angles formed by the slopes with the wall. Apply putty on them, making the layer thicker where the level requires it.
Glue the perforated corner onto the fresh putty by pressing it into the mortar. Correct the position of the corner vertically and horizontally with the help of a level, pushing it deeper into the solution where necessary.

Remove excess mixture squeezed out through the perforations with a spatula.

Let the mortar set and harden so that the corners do not move during the puttying process.
With a wide spatula, apply a layer of starting putty to the slope, pressing it to the surface at an angle of about 30 degrees and leading from the bottom up. Then remove the excess in the transverse direction from the window to the wall. At the same time, draw an even corner with the wall.

Photo of the main process

One layer of putty should be no more than 5-6 mm. If more layers are required to level and eliminate surface defects, they are applied as many as required, but each must be thoroughly dried before the next.

Advice. To prevent a thick layer of putty from peeling off over time, it can be reinforced with plastic or fiberglass mesh.

After leveling, wait for the putty to dry and with a sandpaper fixed on a grater, rub the surface, removing traces from the spatula and sagging.
Finish the work by smoothing the plane with a thin, no more than 1 mm, layer of finishing putty. After it has dried and grouted with a thin sandpaper, the slopes can be painted.

Final finishing step

Finishing specialists recommend that owners of plastic windows add one more intermediate stage to this set of works. After leveling the slope, it is necessary to draw a thin groove with a spatula in the corner, between it and the window frame, along the still fresh putty, and when the mortar dries, fill it with sealant.

It has good elasticity and will act as a shock absorber as the plastic expands on hot days.

Enamels for windows and doors in Moscow

Painting doors and windows is one of those procedures that is almost always performed when carrying out cosmetic repairs in residential, office, commercial premises, at social and cultural facilities. To improve the appearance of door and window structures, to reliably protect them from the adverse effects of moisture, ultraviolet radiation, and minor mechanical damage, it is necessary to use high-quality enamels. They are presented in a wide range in Leroy Merlin stores.

You can choose and buy enamels for windows and doors of various types from us:

On a water, water-dispersed and alkyd basis;
Designed for painting wood, plastic and other materials;
For carrying out external and internal works;
Glossy and semi-gloss.

One of the main distinctive features all these paint and varnish compositions is that they are environmentally friendly, safe for environment and human health materials. All enamels for windows and doors offered by Leroy Merlin are easily applied to painted surfaces with brushes and rollers, dry quickly and at the same time practically do not emit substances that have a sharp and unpleasant odor into the atmosphere.

These compositions have excellent adhesion with the materials for which they are intended to be painted, and therefore, subject to the application technology, they hold very firmly, do not exfoliate or “bubble”. Enamels for windows and doors that we offer have excellent water-repellent properties, do not fade even with intense and prolonged exposure to sunlight. In addition, the paint layer that they form is characterized by a sufficiently high mechanical strength.

The order of work for every taste

Several operations are associated with putty on wood.

DIY recipes

First, you can cook it yourself.

Here are the two most accessible recipes:

The first is based on rosin:

in a container, mix 2 parts of rosin, 1 part of lard and 10 parts of chalk;
melt until a completely liquid mass is obtained, stirring constantly;
when finished, let cool.

Useful advice! We advise you to try this putty of yours on rosin, it will be especially good when you want to remove it. It can be easily removed with a regular hot water. What is most interesting, the removed mixture can be applied again.

The second is based on linseed oil:

Here we already mix 7 parts of linseed oil, 4 parts of umber;
we also begin to melt with constant stirring;
during the heating process, you will first need to add 4 parts of yellow wax,
then 5.5 parts of chalk and
11 parts white lead;
when the mass takes on a stable liquid form without lumps, heating stops;
Let the paste cool down again.

Before painting, window putty requires sanding, although its quality and the tools used are still up to you.

Application work

Instructions for using putty with your own hands, in whatever form it is supplied, is as follows:

first, and this is an indispensable condition, we remove all the old paint and putty;
then we thoroughly clean the entire surface, grind it and again clean it of all dust residues, let the surface dry completely;
we proceed to apply the first layer of coarse-grained putty in order to remove all significant irregularities;
wait until the surface dries;
starts applying the already fine-grained finish;
when the surface is completely dry, it is polished again.

Puttying windows in this way removes many problems of hard-to-reach places

Useful advice! We advise you to turn to the so-called high-temperature putty, which is indispensable when working outdoors. Such a putty can withstand a temperature range from -40 to +250 degrees, without losing its qualities at all.

Preparation of putty before application

The quality of the solution directly affects the quality of work. It is necessary to determine the correct proportion of hardener in the main composition of the fiberglass putty. Manufacturers recommend using electronic scales for this, but for a simple garage repair, is an unlikely device. It is possible to determine the required 3% percentage of hardener approximately, but the probability of error is high.

There is a little trick:

choose the required amount of putty with fiberglass;
we divide the amount received into two equal slides, which will be 50% of the total volume;
we again divide one of the slides in half, 25% remains;
we continue to divide, now getting two slides of 12.5% each;
now we divide one of the slides into four equal parts, the volume of any of which will be equal to the required 3%.

After determining the required amount of hardener, mix the resulting solution until a uniform pink shade. It is necessary to thoroughly stir the resulting mixture, as the solvent will always tend to the surface. As a result, a poorly mixed solution or an incorrectly selected amount of hardener will either appear as spots on the car's painting, or on the duration of the putty drying.

Don't cook a large number of solution in advance, since the hardening period for high-quality fiberglass putty is about ten minutes. The temperature in the room where the repair is being carried out should not be extremely low or high. The optimal value is from 18 to 25 degrees Celsius.

Restoration of old windows with putty

In this article I will tell you how to restore an old window with a spatula or palette knife and ordinary wood putty, giving it an updated look. This method applicable if the glass on your window is fixed with putty or small glazing beads, which are no longer suitable for use.

Tools and materials

To get started, we need:

Acrylic putty on wood, preferably white. This one is the easiest to paint in the desired color, but even without that, most of the windows are white.
A palette knife or a small spatula, a flat wide knife will also do.
New glasses, if the old ones are broken or damaged by corrosion (black spots that do not lag behind, grooves and scratches, and other unpleasant things).
Sandpaper or building hair dryer to remove old paint from the window. You can, of course, do without it, but in my opinion, a newly painted window looks much more beautiful, not to mention the impact of the external environment on poorly painted wood.
Wood paint, which we will paint the window with.

Let's start the renovation!

First, sand the frame and remove the remnants of the old putty and glazing beads with a knife or spatula, if there are nails that hold the glass, we also remove them. In our example, we changed one of the glasses to a new one, since the previous one was broken. You can do without this if the glass is in order. We take out the old glass and wash it or change it to a new one.

We prepare the seat for the new glass, remove the gaps in the frame, you can also grease the rotten parts of the wood with putty, the main thing is not to overdo it - the extra putty will be squeezed out by the glass and may remain on it if it is not noticed in time, and it will be more difficult to insert the glass. By the way, there is a good article about the restoration of old windows.

New glass can be cut by yourself, usually 4mm thick glass is used in windows. But if you do not have the skills to cut glass, you can contact the nearest glass workshop, where they will cut glass for you for a low price. right size Don't forget to accurately measure the frame!

We insert new or washed glass into place.

Be careful, the edges of the glasses are very sharp, it is better to use gloves, and not the way we did

We fix the installed glass with the help of small carnations or immediately with putty, if it is small. Evenly apply putty on the frame, while pressing the glass.

The occupied part of the glass with putty should be about 5 mm. Usually, this is just the distance to the end of the frame on the back side.

The putty dries quickly enough, so we process each side of the glass completely, and only then move on to the next one.

When we have completely missed one side, it is necessary to remove the excess and give evenness to our putty. While the putty has not dried, it is easily removed from glass and wood.

Go over one side with a spatula or knife, first smoothing the seam and then removing excess from the glass and frame.

First we apply a layer of putty, the process is described in detail here

Then we align it.

So, the installation of the glass is completed, all four sides of the glass are smeared with putty and aligned, you can proceed to the rest of the glass, if any.

When the putty dries, you can paint our window, depending on the paint you choose, this process may differ, but usually it does not cause difficulties. So, at no extra cost and with minimal labor, we gave our old window a decent look and extended the life of the window. for one year.

Especially for the site Rems-Info.ru

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Preparation for work

To do everything correctly, efficiently and reliably, you need to fulfill several conditions: choose the right putty, prepare the surface, create indoor conditions suitable for this type of work.

The choice of putty and other materials

The leveling mixture is selected in accordance with the scope and scope of work:

It is possible to putty external slopes only with water- and frost-resistant cement compositions. Suitable for all types of facade putty.

Choose Your Outdoor Materials Carefully

The mixture for interior work is selected depending on the microclimate in the room. If it contains a constant high humidity(bath, sauna, etc.), then the putty should be cement or polymer. For dry rooms, gypsum and lime-gypsum compositions can be used.
If leveling requires a thick layer of mortar, buy both finishing and starting putty. Or a general mix.

Advice. In the case of the initial removal of slopes in a new building, they are shaped with plaster mortars, and only then leveling putty is used.

Relatively smooth slopes, without significant defects, can be repaired using only finishing putty.

In addition to putty, you will need a deep penetration primer to improve the adhesion of the leveling compound to the substrate, silicone sealant, perforated corners to strengthen the outer corners.

Advice. Buy a primer with antifungal additives. It will prevent the appearance of mold on the slopes.

Before priming, existing traces of mold should also be removed.

The set of tools is standard: wide and narrow stainless steel spatulas, level, paint knife, as well as a brush or roller for priming and subsequent painting.

Surface preparation

Before puttying slopes, you need to clean the work surface well - remove old paint, peeling off plaster, sweep away dust, cut off protruding window block mounting foam.

Advice. You need to cut the foam not flush with the frame, but a little deeper. After that, the cut is treated with a sealant to protect the foam from condensate, which reduces its thermal insulation properties.

It is convenient to cut the foam with a thin clerical knife

If the window sill has not yet been installed, it is advisable to do this before finishing the window slopes. so that later you do not have to level the damaged areas again. In addition, the work performed in the correct sequence will allow you to immediately repair the joints between the slopes and the window sill with high quality.

The next stage of preparation is the protection of the window frame and window sill from dirt and damage during the puttying process. Plastic and wooden structures can be pasted over with masking tape, and surfaces with an unstable coating that can come off when the adhesive tape is removed (for example, MDF) can be covered with film or paper.

The final chord of the preparatory process is the primer of the entire working surface. The primer should strengthen the base, increase it adhesive properties, to prevent the appearance of mold due to possible excess moisture.

On the primer is better not to save. You don’t need a lot of it, so its price will not affect the amount of expenses too much. But the quality and reliability of slopes will be high.

You can proceed directly to puttying only after the soil has completely dried. But you should not tighten it, otherwise dust will settle on the surface.

Repair of old wooden windows, partial and major window restoration

Without putty when working on wooden frames, there is nowhere to go.

Only in this way can the surface be truly protected from future external influences and prepared for painting. This indisputable truth will not be too lazy to repeat for you an additional video in this article.

How to put putty with your own hands: dilute, make, knead, clean, calculate, glue baguettes, proportions, video instruction, photo and price
The final stage of rough finishing of all planes of the dwelling most often involves the use of powder or paste-like materials, which allow to obtain ...
Putty for chipboard: video instructions for puttying with your own hands, is it possible to putty and what, photo
Even if the surface of the chipboard is factory sanded, it still needs to be puttied before painting or varnishing ....
How to level the walls with putty: remove, remove, use, what consistency should be, do-it-yourself video installation instructions, photo and price
In apartments, finishing with the use of liquid mixtures is carried out very often, which means it deserves close attention. Many city owners…

How to putty slopes

By the way, this silicone can be easily removed, in case of a bad experience, with a rag and solvent.

Coating with varnish or paint

New frames can be varnished immediately after removing the paint and sanding down to the wood. The wood must first be primed to prevent mold and rot. Lacquer buy for outdoor use. Old frames are best covered with oil paint.

Hardware installation

Then you need to screw the fittings (preferably new) to the sashes. The sashes are mounted back into the opening. Make sure that the locks close well and the latches work smoothly.

Repairing a wooden window will save you a lot of money. In addition, your room will not lose the natural and lively appearance familiar to you and your guests.

Do-it-yourself wooden window repair

. Prices for the repair of wooden windows are quite biting. Take, for example, the procedure for “adjusting the window sash hardware for free movement,” which averages $17 per piece. And if you invest a huge number of others here to repair a wooden structure, then you can say with confidence that you have to pay a rather large amount to the master. But work on your own does not require extra costs, and today we will try to prove it to you.

Quite often one has to meet wooden windows installed in the distant pre-Soviet times in houses and apartments. These wooden windows, although they were installed a couple of decades ago, still have all the necessary functions to protect the apartment (houses) from harsh climatic conditions. The truth is often not complete without painting or pasting with paper (cotton) during the cold season. But still, one painting is not enough for the window, as before, to serve you faithfully. Moreover, the window service must be of high quality, otherwise its window will have to be replaced with a more practical plastic one, or a new wooden one. Therefore, you just need to do overhaul old wooden window. The word overhaul includes the repair of all the flaws in the window, due to which the secret of its age is revealed.

Therefore, if you still do not want to part with the frame because of the natural material, in today's article we will tell you how to restore windows with your own hands.

The choice of certain tools necessary for the restoration of a wooden window directly depends on the condition of the window frame. Therefore, you may not need all the equipment listed below.

Tools and materials needed to repair wooden windows with your own hands:

Building hair dryer (to remove the old layer of paint from the frame);
A set of spatulas of different sizes (for removing a layer of old paint and applying putty);
Sealant (to glue glass);
A set of brushes (for painting frames);
A set of sandpaper P220-240 and P120 for cleaning wood and putty;
Hammer;
Nails (20 mm long for glazing beads);
Chisel;
Pliers;
Ticks;
Electric jigsaw or wood saw;
Penknife;
Wood paint (preferably glossy, as it washes better);
Wooden glazing beads (if you plan to re-glaze the window frame);
masking tape;
Coarse-grained putty on wood;
Fine-grained finishing putty on wood;
Deep penetration primer.

Now a little more about the last three materials from the above list.

Coarse-grained putty on wood

Coarse-grained putty on wood is used to seal various sizes of material defects. Coarse-grained wood putty is also used in the restoration of doors and many other joinery products.

Fine-grained finishing putty for wood

Fine-grained finishing putty on wood is often used for internal "concrete" in apartments (houses). However, this material is also suitable for puttying wooden windows. However, the choice of putty color must be approached wisely. For the repair of wooden windows, it is advisable to purchase putty precisely white color. Of course, there can be no talk of combining with the color of natural wood. But beige material is used only when you plan to varnish the window frame. And if the window frame is in very poor condition, it is necessary to carry out puttying and painting with white material. In this case, the visibility of defects is reduced to almost zero.

Deep penetration primer

The deep primer is widely used in the decoration of an apartment (house). Treating a wooden window with a primer is necessary for better adhesion of putty with paint.

Preparatory work

Deciding to repair a wooden window is only half the battle, it is necessary to determine what the scope of work will be. To do this, inspect the wooden window for visible defects and damage. It is quite possible that you will have to not only complete the windows, but also completely replace the glass. Also, in most cases, you can not do without a major overhaul of the frames. This work is necessary because in places where the paint has peeled off, the material could well have rotted. The older the window, the more visible defects you will find. Therefore, the beginning of the repair of a wooden window is to calculate the required amount for the material.

Having finished preparatory work, you will finally decide for yourself whether to repair an old wooden window when a new wooden or plastic window can be installed for the same money.

What is the material

General information

Like any other putty, polyester compounds with fiberglass are a paste-like consistency. They are made on the basis of unsaturated modified polyesters.

By themselves, these resins are quite hard, therefore, to give them the necessary viscosity and plasticity, styrene is added to them. As you might guess, the fiberglass in the composition of these putties performs the function of a reinforcing filler. It increases the strength of the putty and improves some of its other properties, which we will discuss below.

Glass fiber increases the strength of the putty and prevents cracking

The solvent present in polyester putties is very harmful to health. Therefore, when working with the composition in an enclosed space, it is necessary to take safety measures - wear a respirator and ensure the ventilation of the room.

Polyester putties are sold as two-component formulations. Those. before use, the putty must be mixed with a hardener.

Properties

Like any other building materials, the putty in question has its advantages and disadvantages. Below are its main positive and negative qualities.

Advantages:

Can be applied in thick layers. The thickness of one layer can be 5-8 mm;
No shrinkage. Even when applied in a thick layer, the coating practically does not shrink, unlike acrylic putty;

Through holes can be sealed with fiberglass putty

Doesn't crack. The fiberglass contained in the composition prevents cracking of the coating;
Strength. Thanks to this, the use of putty with fiberglass is allowed not only for sealing cracks and dents, but also through holes;
Vibration and vibration resistance. Due to this, this putty is common among motorists;

Due to its vibration resistance, polyester putty is often used for car repairs.

Freezes quickly. The hardening time is on average about 20-30 minutes. As a rule, it is possible to start grinding already 15 minutes after coating;
weather resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture, low temperatures, or ultraviolet radiation.

Flaws:

Toxicity. As I said above, the solvent present in the coating is harmful to health;
Sets quickly. The composition is suitable for application in 4-8 minutes, respectively, you need to work with it with your own hands quickly. This usually causes some problems for beginners.

Specifications

As an example, consider the characteristics of two-component putty Novol Fiber.

Do-it-yourself wooden window repair is a very relevant issue. Wooden windows do not recede even in the age of modern plastic ones. Wood is not only a natural prestige material, it also has real benefits: wooden windows are resistant to external influences, provide excellent sound and heat insulation. And most importantly, in a house with wooden windows, optimal humidity is automatically maintained.

Manufacturers, seeing that the "plastic boom" in the window market is subsiding, vying with each other offer windows made of modified wood. Nothing bad can be said about them, except for the price: not only does it not please, it scares. Meanwhile, the restoration of wooden windows with your own hands is not so difficult, and as a result, great-grandfather's dead window can be restored to the form of a completely new product.

Technology, tools, materials

Independent and professional restoration of old windows is most often based on the so-called Swedish technology. But if you understand properly, then its whole essence comes down to inserting a Euro-strip sealing cord, and fitting and repainting remain in the field of additional services, the price is from 3000 rubles / window. And in principle, the Euro-strip technology is not a restoration, but a warming. (About which on the eve of the onset of cold weather).

In the meantime, we will find out what tool and materials will be needed for this - there will be few of them:

Zenzubel (selector)

A set of chisels of various widths, from 4 to 30 mm.
Special planer for sampling and cleaning folds, quarters, grooves and sharpening of perpendicular cuts - zenzubel; in Russian - selector, see picture on the right.
A fragment of a wide, 4-6 mm and thin, no more than 0.3 mm hacksaw or jigsaw blade (saw blade). If there is a manual jigsaw on the farm, then a solid tape for it.
A wide shoe knife or palette knife is a special knife with which painters clean off paint from a palette.
Thin-walled core drill for wood 8-10 mm inside; acquired after the revision of the valves.
Carpenter's square.
T-square or bubble level 1 m.

You will also need a plumb line, but you can easily make it yourself from a thread with a nut. From the materials you will need the following:

Mounting glue for wood - "liquid nails", about 0.3 kg.
Putty on wood sawdust the desired tone, 0.5 kg, or 0.5 l of fine sawdust; sold in hardware stores.
Natural drying oil, 3 kg for a two-room apartment of medium size.
Thickly ground (dry mixture of pigment with filler diluted manually with a thinner) white, titanium or zinc, 2 kg from the same calculation.
Flat brushes 40 and 80 mm.
Kerosene, 2 l.
Nails, small and 60-80 mm, 0.5 kg each.
Skin No. 60 or No. 80, 0.7 m.
A dense plastic bag with a depth of 1.7 m and a width of 0.5 m. Suitable packaging from bedding, etc. Holes should be sealed with tape.
A sheet of plywood or a flat shield of boards slightly larger than the window frame.
Pieces of aviation or waterproof plywood with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm or a block of durable small-layer wood - oak, beech, walnut, mountain ash, pear, plum, cherry, acacia.
Silicone AQUARIUM glue, 10-20 ml.

Note: water-based deep penetration polymer putties on wood are not suitable for this case: they significantly increase the thermal conductivity of wooden parts.

Additionally, depending on the design of the window, you may need a stain of the desired tone and acrylic clear varnish. If you can use an industrial hair dryer, kerosene and a large plastic bag will not be needed. Having stocked up on the above, you can start overhauling old windows.

Working conditions

For windows it is better to be taken in dry, warm, even hot weather: the permissible air humidity is not more than 65%, and preferably 40%. In case of bad weather, we cover the window openings for the period of repair with a film on a temporary frame made of waste lumber: slab, waste, old pickets, etc.

Correct and incorrect dowel fit

Disassembly and revision

The most important element of the window design is the wooden dowel pins (“chops”) that fasten it at the corners. Sufficient attention will be paid to the description of how to work with them, and window repair begins precisely with the inspection and revision of the dowels.

First of all, we remove the sashes, remove the glazing beads or carefully pick out the putty with a chisel and take out the glass. Then we completely remove the fittings (it will still need a new one); we carefully remove the wooden ebbs (teardrops) from the outer wings: they are on nails, which are probably rusted. We also take out all the other nails, remove the steel squares - for further work, only wood should remain in the frame and sashes.

Next, the frame and then the sashes are laid one by one on the shield and leveled to rectangularity, measuring the diagonals: they should be of equal length. We especially carefully measure and level the sashes of the window: they are small and the price of a mistake is high. 1 mm divergence of the diagonals along the length gives a gap of 0.6-0.7 mm.

Example: on the sash, we made a mistake of 3 mm, and by the same amount in the opposite direction on the frame. You will get a gap about 4 mm wide, clearly visible, and pulling from it will also be noticeable.

We fix the aligned part of the window with nails, carefully driving them into the shield close to the sash, and check the old dowels. If everyone is sitting as expected, approximately in the middle of the corner, carefully drill them with a drill of a larger diameter, but not more than 0.6 of the width of a rectangular one, excluding grooves, quarters and bevels of solid wood (see Fig. lower part). If there is a “left”, which is not uncommon, see the figure above, we work like this:

We dig the old one along the contour with 3-4 drops of superglue, this is necessary so that it does not fall out during drilling and the hole does not go away.
We are waiting for 5-10 minutes for the glue to grab firmly in the depths, it flows far.
Drill the correct hole.
With a saw band, inserting it into the gap between the mustache of the connection, we saw through the old dowel.

After the mounting holes are drilled in all the details of the window, we disassemble the frames into parts and clean them of old paint.

Paint cleaning

There are two ways to remove old paint from windows: thermal and chemical. An industrial hair dryer is used for heat treatment cleaning. Do not try to make it domestic: it will not give 200-250 degrees. And do not set the temperature on the hair dryer to more than 250 - you will get a low-temperature, without charring, wood burn, and it will lose its qualities. The same thing happens if you heat with a blowtorch or propane torch.

The part to be cleaned is placed on the priest and heated in sections of 25-30 cm. When the paint begins to bubble, it is cleaned off like plasticine with a shoe knife or a palette knife. A spatula with a straight blade, even a sharpened one, will either cut into the wood or slip through the paint.

Video: thermal paint removal

“Chemistry” paint is removed using a plastic bag and kerosene (solvent or nitro solvents are not suitable, they will ruin the tree):

Each piece of wood is wrapped in rags.
The whole bunch, how much will fit into the neck of the bag, is thrust into it; there should be a margin for tying the bag.
Wrapped pieces of wood are watered with 0.5 liters of kerosene.
The bag is tied tightly, left for a day or more, until the paint softens.
They take out the parts one by one and clean off the paint with the same tool.

Notes:

Chemical softening of paint is a smelly and fire hazardous operation. It should be carried out on the balcony or on the street.

If you pull out the entire beam from the bag at once, the kerosene will quickly evaporate and the paint will harden again.

In both cases, if the window is supposed to be painted with paint, it is not necessary to pick out small particles of paint in the recesses: it will only be easier to putty and sand. If the window goes under the stain with varnish, then you will have to work on them.

Impregnation

The next stage of work is impregnation with drying oil. The purpose is to prevent the germs of rot, killed by heat or chemistry, from developing again, and to restore, as far as possible, the structure of dilapidated wood. In haste, for several years until the next repair, impregnate the parts with a brush from all sides 3-4 times; the next - after the complete absorption of the previous one. Before subsequent impregnation, the surface of the part should not be taken to the touch.

For centuries, they are impregnated in a special device: a piece brewed from one end steel pipe 100-120 mm. It is installed obliquely at about 30 degrees; it is advisable to use a welded kozelchik from the corner so that the pipe does not roll. The operation is performed only in the open air away from residential buildings: in the yard, in the country. On hand, you must definitely have a felt bag made of burlap or fiberglass: drying oil can flare up. You need to know this in advance, and not be scared, but immediately throw a felt mat over the neck of the pipe. It goes out - you can continue.

Drying oil is poured into the pipe by 3/4 and heated from below with a hairdryer or a stream of hot air from an electric stove. As the drying oil heats up, it will begin to bubble: it is moisture that evaporates from it and air comes out. If the smell of drying oil suddenly intensified sharply, we move the heater aside, wait a bit and continue heating. When there are no bubbles, impregnation can begin.

Warning: in no case do not look directly into the neck of the pipe and do not lean over it! You need to follow the drying oil sideways.

For impregnation, you will need a 5-6 mm steel wire hook with a pointed end. The item is placed in a pipe and melted with a hook for 3-5 minutes, then it, hooked with a point, is taken out and laid on a table to dry. Do not grab the parts with your hands, even in mittens: hot drying oil with a temperature of over 130 degrees will drain from them.

Parts treated in this way from the most ordinary pine serve in the open air for 150 years or more, and painted with oil paint require repainting no more than once every 15 years.

Windows restoration

Nagels and wedges

Before actually taking on the restoration of wooden windows, you need to prepare new dowels and wedges for them. The pins are drilled with a core drill from any straight-grain commercial wood. You need to drill Across the fibers, as shown in the figure. Hastily planed "chops" will not hold the frames for a long time. For each pin, it is necessary to prepare in advance a wedge with a length of its diameter, a width of 5-7 mm and a thickness of 1-1.5 mm. The best wedges are oak and rowan. The dowel diameter is 0.5-0.7 mm larger than the diameter of the mounting hole for it.

Outside Alignment

The frame to be leveled is assembled, while not fixing it with anything, on a shield-stock; it must be covered with plastic film in advance. They are aligned diagonally, as before, and also fixed with nails driven in from the sides. The fixing holes are drilled again.

Next, the frame is disassembled, the mustache and grooves of the joints are smeared with liquid nails, quickly (the glue hardens in a few minutes) they are assembled in a slipway, they are also quickly checked with diagonals and, if necessary, trimmed. When the glue grabs, proceed to fixing with dowels. It is impossible to put it off for another day: in order for the dowels to hold the frame properly, the adhesive joint during their installation must still be sufficiently plastic.

Nagels are lightly lubricated with liquid nails and hammered into holes with a mallet. THE NAGEL FIBERS MUST BE LOCATED Across THE WOOD FIBERS! This is an indispensable condition for the reliability of the connection, see fig. Finally, the dowels are fixed with wedges on both sides, driving them ALONG THE FIBER of the dowel, also see the figure.

The question may arise: what about the response detail? Nagel fibers will go along its fibers.

The fact is that the counterpart, after driving the wedges into the dowels, will fall on the “waist” of the dowel and will not split. And a wedge driven into the dowel before the glue has completely hardened will give, in addition to the lateral, some vertical force, so that the entire joint will shrink and the glue will gain strength under pressure. After 3 days of exposure at +25 degrees, such a frame, dropped at an angle from a height of a meter, remains rectangular.

Frame and sash adjustment

The squareness along the outer edge does not guarantee the straightness of the mounting openings: the tree may dry out unevenly. Therefore, the next stage of work is the alignment of the inner quarters.

First, we adjust the window frame and the vents in the corresponding sash: we put the frame on the priest and check the quarters in turn with a plumb line. If there is at least one exactly perpendicular, we take it as a base. If not, you will have to suffer with a square and a T-square until we find the most "left" corner. From it, then from other corners with a pencil along the T-square we beat off the lines of the new opening and with a zenzubel, and in the corners with a chisel we select the excess (in the figure - on the left).

Next, in the same way, we check and equalize the sash OUTSIDE. Then the sashes are laid next to each other and aligned in height and width, as shown in the figure on the right. Quarters under the glass can not be touched: both for the appearance and for the reliability of the window, their slight distortion is insignificant. But if you get a taste and want to align them, it won't hurt.

After the described operations, the sash together will be less than the landing opening of the frame. To fit into the frame (exactly into it, otherwise the window will not close later!) We put strips of plywood in a quarter on liquid nails. After the glue hardens, we bring it to accuracy with a zenzubel and a chisel, we select recesses for fittings. Next, we grab after 15-25 cm with small carnations, drowning their hats with a chisel. Then we impregnate the lining with drying oil with a 40 mm flute

Putty and sanding

Putty for small recesses can be prepared independently by mixing sawdust on liquid nails in a ratio of 3: 1 by volume. You need to knead quickly, in small portions, and just as quickly putty: the glue sets in a few minutes. Finally, we sand the frame with sandpaper.

Reminder: before puttying, do not forget to put the ebbs in place, on liquid nails and then on ordinary ones.

Painting

For decades, wooden windows have been painted with oil paint. Most the best way: buy thickly grated paint and mix it yourself in linseed or “wooden” (walnut) oil, as artists do. "Natural" ready-made oil paints on sale are most often based on synthetic or mineral oil thinners, which are much inferior to traditional ones in terms of durability. Glyphthalic and pentaphthalic enamels do not fit well: after 5 years, the window will require repainting, and extra layers of paint spoil the look.

When purchasing a thicker paint, make sure that the pigment is mineral and not synthetic. White can be checked by rubbing a pinch between the fingers: there should be no "slippery" feeling, and the powder should stick to the fingers. Synthetic pigment almost completely flies off when shaken off.

Advice: the main parts of the paint are pigment, filler (dry) and thinner. If you want windows to shine for a very long time, choose paint with marble flour (microcarbonate) filler.

Oil paint is kneaded in a wide flat dish: they are poured in a pile, a hole is made at its top, oil is poured into it and kneaded. Oil is added in small portions to the desired density. For windows, you need the consistency of liquid sour cream.

Video: an example of painting a wooden window

Finishing

Finishing "under nature" in the described technology is made with stains. Stains change the tone of the wood and emphasize its texture: an ordinary industrial pine, after being treated with a suitable stain, can be almost indistinguishable in appearance from bog oak, pandan or mahogany. It is advisable to experiment on old chocks before decorating: choose the tone and degree of dilution.

Finishing stains has additional advantages: coloring composition penetrates deep, staining the wood in bulk, so that after sanding in case of repair it is not necessary to repaint. In addition, wood stain increases the resistance of wood to decay and ultraviolet rays.

Completes decorative trim windows are varnished with transparent or tinted acrylic varnish, fittings and glass are installed. Acrylic's competitor in quality is only Japanese tung lacquer, but it is not available to every oligarch.

Glazing

Before installing the glasses in the inner corners of the quarters, we squeeze out a thin sausage of aquarium silicone glue under them. After fixing the glasses with carnations, we remove the silicone drips with a cloth moistened with vinegar. Carnations do not need to be wiped dry from silicone: it will protect them from corrosion. After the silicone hardens (2 mm / day), we seal the glass with putty, as usual: chalk mixed with drying oil. If the glass will be fastened with glazing beads, they must be processed in advance, like other wooden parts, and painted.

Outcome

The ancient technology of restoring wooden windows, complemented by modern materials, works wonders. A completely shabby window, which has been in the hands of a skilled and accurate craftsman, looks no worse than a plastic one, and retains everything beneficial features tree.

Modern wooden window structures, with proper installation and subsequent timely repair, they will serve you for many years. Why is there a need to repair them?

Any paintwork under the influence of the sun and moisture over time ceases to protect the window from destruction. Therefore, timely painting will prevent the destruction of wood, the occurrence of fungus, rot and drying out. Also, cracks and chips may appear on the window frame, this problem will be solved by window repair and restoration.

New wooden windows have a lot of weight, due to the double-glazed windows installed in them. Therefore, fittings and mechanisms experience a constant excess load. All mechanisms and accessories need timely adjustment and lubrication. Otherwise, they do not fulfill their functions, the sashes sag and begin to cling to the frame, the mechanisms open and close the window with difficulty, gaps appear due to a poor fit of the seal, and over time they completely fail.

Seals on modern windows are made of rubber and have their own service life. During operation, the rubber seal loses its elasticity, as a result of which it does not fit tightly, and gaps are formed that worsen heat and noise insulation. The seal must be replaced with a better one (Swedish EvroStrip silicone seal).

Old wooden windows

Masters of the company Teplo-Oknodel maintain and repair old wooden windows and doors in Moscow and the Moscow region. In Moscow houses, apartments built from the 70s to the 90s, windows of the so-called "Finnish type" were installed. These are twin-paneled windows with tie bolts; when opened, when washed inside, they resemble a book. In houses of an older construction, windows of the "Stalinist type" were installed. These are windows with separate sash and frame, closed with latches, most often have a transom.

Modern people try to make housing as environmentally friendly as possible, so you can often see time-tested wooden windows, rather than modern plastic. This is no accident, since such natural material as wood is highly valued. Another main advantage of wooden windows is the possibility of their repair. Of course, the repair and even more so the restoration of wooden windows is not an easy task. However, if we take a little modern materials, add skill, patience and a little effort to them, you get a completely new window.

When are repairs needed?

Repair and restoration of windows are similar to each other. In the course of both one and the other procedure, it will be necessary to clear, putty, paint, seal and insulate. The approach to repair and restoration work on windows depends largely on the degree of deterioration of frames, fittings, and glass. Most often, window repairs are needed due to worn fittings. However, such repairs are quite easy to make. It is only necessary to replace already worn out parts with new ones.

Restoration of wooden windows with double-glazed windows has to be carried out if there are problems with the wood itself. This material, unfortunately, is easily affected by various external influences. To avoid problems, it is best to impregnate wood with special antiseptic agents, which, in particular, protect it from insects. How often windows will need repairs will tell the type of wood that was used for them. For example, larch frames can last 35 years, and oak frames can last more than half a century.

Most often, repairs are needed due to the sloppy appearance of wooden windows. And often this happens as a result of applying a large number of layers of paint. Repair is also necessary if the thermal insulation qualities of the window are violated, caused by loose fitting of the frame and transoms. If there are rotten areas on the window frame or transom, then such a window definitely needs to be repaired. Often among the malfunctions there are distortions of window frames, closing the window with difficulty, small cracks. Repair may be needed due to such problem areas like bottom corners. After all, they often accumulate a large amount of moisture.

Of course, there are some damages that can no longer be repaired. For example, the wood has become so loose that if you press on it, dents will remain. It is also better to replace the windows with new ones if the frames stagger a lot in the window openings. Evidence that the wood has turned into dust and decomposes is evidenced by large dark spots under the paint. Frames should not be repaired even if they are severely deformed or damaged. For example, split frames are best replaced with new ones. It is worth noting that it is best to repair wooden windows on a warm, sunny and dry day.

If there is high humidity, then it is better to postpone the repair so that the wood does not change its geometry and dries better.

Dismantling and damage assessment

Cosmetic, as well as major repairs of wooden windows, begin with an inspection of the structure to determine its condition. After that, the final decision is made whether a light repair or a complete restoration of the window is needed. To do this, carefully inspect the frame, transom and window sill. Next, you need to determine how the glass will be attached. Often they are held by putty or glazing beads. To remove the putty, it is enough to clean it off with a knife or a chisel, and carefully remove the glazing beads (glass rail) without damaging the glass.

After that, the glass is removed and the fittings are dismantled. Wooden ebbs are carefully removed, all fasteners are removed, as well as metal squares, nails, self-tapping screws, and so on. Then the frame without anything should be placed on a flat surface and its diagonals measured. They must all be the same length. Otherwise, skew may cause the formation of cracks, and this is unacceptable. The frame must be attached to some surface, for example, to a shield made of boards.

Further, it is necessary to check the condition of the window dowels. Often the corners of the frame are connected with dowels made of wood. Before painting and sanding, it is better to replace them with new ones. You can remove the dowel by knocking it out with a hammer. Moreover, this should be done from the thin side, since the dowel has a conical shape. Of course, this is only possible with an even, that is, symmetrical angle of their location.

If the frame has a deformation, then it is better to drill the dowel. A dangling dowel can be fixed with superglue in a matter of minutes before drilling. Now that the window is completely disassembled, you can begin to work on cleaning the wooden parts from paint.

It is worth recalling that it will be possible to repair the window correctly only after all the wood parts have been thoroughly dried.

Paint removal

Any old wood window frame needs paint removal. However, this work requires caution. It is best to do this with gloves and goggles. Cleaning the frame from paint can be done in two ways.

Building hair dryer

This method is considered the most effective for removing paint from wood. However, it requires utmost attention. The hair dryer must be handled very carefully. Glasses must be removed in advance so that they do not crack from hot air. The temperature of the hair dryer is best set at +250 degrees.

If the temperature is higher, the wood may lose its characteristics due to the charring process. In the process of heating, the paint bubbles. Due to this, it is easy to remove it with a special knife or a palette knife (a trowel knife that mixes paints on a palette). A spatula is not suitable for stripping paint, as it will either slip through the paint or leave burrs due to cutting into the wood.

It should be borne in mind that this process is not fast, but a high-quality result is obtained.

By chemical means

Special solutions are able to remove paint from the old wooden frame. As well as you can do this using the "grandfather method" in the form of kerosene and a plastic bag. Moreover, it is kerosene that is suitable, since, unlike other solvents and solvents, it does not destroy the structure of the tree. This method consists in the fact that the frame is wrapped with a cloth and placed in a plastic bag or bag. After that, the fabric is very well moistened with kerosene, the bag is tied and left for a day, and preferably two. As a result, the paint softens and can be easily removed even with a shoe knife.

It is better to remove the plastic strips gradually so that the kerosene does not evaporate, and the paint does not dry out again and stop separating. Most often, the frame is not placed in a bag or bag as a whole, but disassembled into parts. There is another option to wrap it in plastic wrap and tie it with a rope in layers for better sealing. The main disadvantage of this method is the pungent odor and high fire hazard. Therefore, it is best to clean the frame in the open air in this way.

After this cleaning method, the frame is not yet fully ready for finishing work. The remaining paint must be removed with sandpaper or a grinder. After the frames are cleared of coating, paint must be removed from the inner slopes of the window and window sill.

As soon as the paint is removed, all the defects that were hidden immediately become visible.

Renovation of rotten areas

If the wooden frames are in good condition and you don’t want to change them completely, but there are rotten sections, then they can be restored. It is absolutely easy to do this.

Epoxy putty

Epoxy putty allows you to remove small rotten sections of the frame in the shortest possible time. It is very good if it contains fiberglass that can increase the rigidity of the frame. Restoration begins with the fact that the damaged area of the frame is thoroughly cleaned of paint. Then all the rubbish is removed. After that, putty is mixed and applied to the prepared place. It is necessary to apply it so that it fills all the cracks and crevices.

In this case, the damaged area must be recreated so that it is more voluminous than the entire plane of the frame. This is necessary so that further polishing can be carried out later. The putty hardens at room temperature for at least 24 hours. When the puttied place dries, it must be sanded with sandpaper (it is better to mount it on a bar) or a grinder. After grinding, the entire surface of the frame should be smooth. After such restoration, the appearance of the window becomes like new, but there are no guarantees of sufficient density in places that are actively used.

This method is best suited for blind windows or those that are rarely used.

Frame part replacement

Replacing part of the frame also allows you to remove rotten places. This method begins with inspecting the frame for damage and marking them. After all of them are found, it is necessary to remove them with a mallet or chisels. A replacement is being prepared in their place, and the new part of the frame must completely match in size and shape with the removed part.

When the desired part of the frame is ready, it is put in place and fixed with glue and clamps. The frame will dry completely after 24 hours, then you can remove the clamps. After this, the junctions of the new part with the frame are carefully sanded. This is necessary so that there are no differences in height.

antiseptic

Another important point- This is the treatment of problem areas with an antiseptic composition. After applying it, the frame should be dried. To increase the service life of old wooden windows, it is best to cover them with drying oil. This will prevent the appearance of new rot and partially restore the structure of the wood. Drying oil is applied in 3-4 layers with a brush, and each new layer is done only after the previous one is completely absorbed. Such impregnation protects for 2-3 years.

If you want to protect windows for decades, then you need to impregnate in a different way.

For this, it is taken metal pipe 10 centimeters thick, with one end sealed. It is set at an angle of 30 degrees, three-quarters filled with drying oil and heated from below with a hair dryer or electric stove.
Impregnation with drying oil begins after the bubbles disappear on its surface.
Next, you will need an iron hook with a built-in end. The part is placed in the pipe and pressed down with a hook for 5 minutes. Then they hook the bar with the tip of the hook, take it out and dry it.
You can’t touch the details with your hands, since the temperature of the hot drying oil is more than +130 degrees. And all this procedure must be carried out exclusively on the street and away from residential buildings. As a result of this treatment, the service life of wooden window frames can increase up to 100 years.

If you want to repaint as little as possible, then after the above procedure, they must be coated with an oil composition.

Door assembly and insulation

When the window sashes are cleared of paint, it is necessary to prepare them for assembly. To do this, they are laid on a shield, and then aligned at right angles. Special attention should be given to the details of the window, since even a difference in the diagonals of 1 millimeter can lead to a gap of 0.7 millimeters. As soon as the site is leveled, it is immediately fixed with glue or nails, which are carefully driven into the shield directly near the sash. Be sure to look through and get (if not already removed) the nagil.

After all the corners are assembled, a very rigid structure is obtained, ready for installation in the frame. Moreover, the sashes will sit more tightly if plywood strips of the appropriate size are glued to the frame. After installation, all parts are laid on a leveled canvas and pressed down with a load of about 100 kilograms. It will take 2-3 days for complete drying and leveling.

High-quality repair of wooden windows cannot do without their insulation. In addition, insulating windows can also significantly reduce heat loss at home.

There are several ways to insulate windows:

fabric strips;
silicone sealants;
special paper strips;
tubular profiles;
heat-saving film;
seals that are laid in the sash frames.

The best is considered to be insulation with a heat-saving film, as well as using a sealant in the frame doors. First, silicone sealant is applied to the places where the sashes and glass are connected. After that, a cutter is taken and a recess of 5 millimeters is cut along the perimeter of the sash. Moreover, it is necessary to saw off at an angle of 45 degrees. Next, you need to clean the surfaces of chips. Now you can press the PVC seal into the resulting groove without stretching. Thus, wooden windows are reliably insulated.

Painting and glazing

Proper glazing of windows with wooden frames is to install the glass hermetically. This moment is very important, since micro-slits can form between the glass and the frame, into which it will blow.

It is best to plant glass on a silicone adhesive, such as sealant for aquariums. Glue is applied along the groove under the frame glass, then the glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads. If there are drops of glue that have come out, then they must be wiped with a sponge, which is pre-moistened with vinegar. At the same time, you should not wipe the nail heads from the glue, as its layer will become an additional protection against rust. Windows must be left for about a day to dry completely.

Sometimes, when repairing wooden windows, it is necessary to replace the glass, for example, if there are defects in the form of cracks, haze, scuffs, and so on.

When ordering new glass, it is necessary to make accurate measurements of the opening, but at the same time order glass 2-3 millimeters less. This is due to the fact that under the influence of temperature the glass expands, and such a small gap will prevent the glass from breaking. Glass can also be fixed in the frame with glazing beads and very small nails. At the same time, glazing beads need to be pre-impregnated with drying oil, painted or stained. After that, you can make holes in them with a thin drill for nails. Thus, when driving in nails, the glazing bead will remain intact, like glass.

Without a glazing bead, glass is installed on putty. You can buy it ready-made in the store or make it yourself from chalk and drying oil. Before painting, it is best to prepare the window. Why it is sanded, the existing irregularities are treated with putty. Then, the window is once again superficially sanded. The last moment is the application of oil-adhesive putty and once again cleaning with a sandpaper.

There are various means for processing wooden windows. For example, if the surface of the window looks decent, then it is better to varnish it. Stain is used to level or give the wood a different tone. It also allows you to make small defects invisible. If there are a large number of puttied areas, then better windows paint with paint. For painting wooden windows, acrylic or Oil paint. Advantages acrylic paint consist in quick drying, and oil - lasts longer.

For coloring, the paint is pre-diluted. Thick paint does not allow the wood to be well impregnated, streaks may form. To make the window look neater after painting, it is better to apply a more liquid paint, but in several layers. Masking tape must be applied to window glass before painting. The first coat of paint is applied to impregnate the wood. Only after it has completely dried can the second and subsequent layers be applied. Begin to paint from the glass from the inner surface.

What is the advantage of restoring wooden windows and carrying out their restoration?

Undeniable advantages over replacement wooden structures on PVC windows. Due to this, not only the maximum environmental friendliness of housing is achieved, but also cost savings by about 3 times. In addition, the comfort in the house will be preserved as much as possible. Restoring wooden windows is a simpler procedure than breaking out window frames and replacing them with a new PVC structure.
Window repair and restoration takes less time than a full replacement.
Noticeable cost savings. It is easier to restore the wooden frame of the windows than to replace them with plastic. In this case, the difference in the amount will be more than noticeable. Considering that we restore wooden windows in Moscow with the highest quality, you do not have to worry about the work done, and you will be satisfied with the result.

Restoration and repair of windows, PVC installation

There is no doubt that now many are chasing new technologies and fashion. This is the first reason that ordinary wooden windows are being replaced with PVC models. Unfortunately, few people think that this approach is not always justified. The fact is that the restoration of window repair can "give new life» an already finished product, and an environmentally friendly product. Don't forget that plastic windows are made of polymers that simply cannot hold the environmental friendliness of the house. Window restoration is the easiest way to transform your home while maintaining maximum environmental friendliness and cleanliness. Considering that the price for the restoration of wooden windows is affordable, think about whether it makes sense to replace it.

All about cost

The aspect regarding the price plays an important role. The price for the restoration of wooden windows is minimal, and if we consider replacing them with PVC models, we note that the difference in amounts will clearly please you.

Even in comparison with new wooden windows, PVC constructions noticeably lose.

Note that we carry out the restoration of all windows, even old wooden models. We also carry out the restoration of new types of window frames. The main advantage of contacting us is the possibility of updating the interior and exterior of the premises, obtaining maximum environmental friendliness, comfort, savings.

If you think that installing PVC structures is much more profitable than restoring old windows or restoring old window frames, then you are mistaken. The fact is that with proper work and its regular implementation, practicality, tightness, efficiency and comfort in the room are guaranteed.

If the work is done correctly, then you can get the maximum effect, which will surpass the installation of new PVC windows. However, in order to achieve this, it is important to turn to specialists, and not save on the service and look for amateurs. A call to us will help resolve this issue as soon as possible. You will understand that the restoration of old windows is a more profitable service than replacing them with a new PVC structure with its subsequent adjustment, replacement of consumables, and maintenance.

To make sure of the benefits, you can approximately calculate the cost of maintaining the PVC model, as well as the restoration of the wooden frame. It is easy to see even with the naked eye. Do not forget that plastic windows simply will not fit into some houses and apartments because of the style and interior design. This point is also important, because otherwise there will be a noticeable imbalance.

Are you sure that you need restoration of wooden windows? Contact our specialists and learn about all the benefits of the procedure.

Old windows, balcony doors, which have stood for decades, eventually cease to fully fulfill their functions. They open and close with difficulty, cold air penetrates through the cracks formed, and numerous layers of paint remind you that it would be nice to call one of the companies offering modern metal-plastic structures. But do not rush - the restoration of wooden windows will return them to working condition for a long time, and the updated sashes will give the room a kind of charm, for which wealthy people in Moscow are ready to pay much more money than what it would cost you to overhaul your old windows and balcony doors. Professional restoration of windows implies the removal of old paint materials, the restoration of damaged parts of the wood of the sashes, frames, the replacement of fittings, and, if necessary, structural elements that cannot be restored.

Before re-painting window sashes and frames, their surfaces must be carefully sanded, treated with an antiseptic, treated with a primer. All these operations require certain skills, so you should turn to the services of experienced professionals, such as those whose services are offered.