Seal the seam between the floor slabs. Cracks and seams between the plates on the ceiling: repair or hide? Material Alternatives

Provide for their laying with seams of 15 mm, that is, almost end-to-end. The regulatory literature prescribes the installation of monolithic sections with reinforcement at a distance between the plates of 300 mm.

To seal the seams between the floor slabs, it is necessary to use concrete on quick-setting Portland cement or Portland cement grade M400 or higher on fine aggregate. The grain size of the filler should not be more than a third of the interslab gap and three quarters of the clear size between the reinforcing bars. IN concrete mix it is necessary to introduce plasticizers and setting accelerators.

If a standard seam between plates 10-15 mm wide is obtained, then usually a reinforcement bar is laid on the bottom of the seam, which is arranged in the form of a “cone”, and poured with a solution.

We seal off-design joints up to 300 mm

If the width of the seams between adjacent plates does not exceed 300 mm, it is relatively easy to close such a seam, to choose from - several ways to fill the seams.

Method 1

From the bottom of the adjacent slabs, using spacers, we install a board or a sheet of plywood that bridges the gap - this is the formwork;
A piece of roofing material or film can be laid on top of the formwork, then there will be no traces of concrete on the formwork, and it can be used further;
The gap between the plates is filled with mortar;
We are waiting for the concrete to gain strength within 3-4 weeks, we remove the formwork.

Method 2

If it is not possible to bring the formwork from below, you can do fixed formwork made of galvanized roofing steel with a thickness of 0.8-1 mm according to the size of the gap between the plates, with support on the upper face of the plate (trough). The profile of the side surface of the plates will provide additional spacer and rigidity to the monolithic section.

Method 3

Another way to seal seams with fixed formwork is from steel strips with a thickness of 4 mm and a width of 5 cm, make mounting parts along the gap profile, as in the previous case, resting on the front surface of the slabs, lay these mounting parts every 0.5 m along the length of the slab. At the bottom (in the plane of the lower edge of the plates) we put a strip of galvanized roofing steel, plywood or plastic, concrete. This method provides reliable adhesion of the monolithic section to the plates.

Method 4

If you come across a pair of defective slabs with the wrong location of the side locks, when the recess is at the bottom, they can be installed next to a gap of 2-3 cm. From below, bring the formwork according to method 1 and pour concrete through the provided gap.

Monolithic sections with a width of more than 300 mm

If the gap between the plates is from 100 to 300 mm, we perform a monolith with reinforcement. There are also options here.

Option 1

Used when formwork from below is not possible.

We install load-bearing bars with a section of 40x100 mm on the edge, in increments of 1 m, resting on adjacent plates;
We fasten the formwork panels to the load-bearing beams with wire twists;
We close the formwork with roofing material or film;
We install the reinforcement cage on the glasses so that the reinforcement is 30 ... 50 mm higher than the formwork;
We concrete.

Option 2

If it is possible to fix the formwork from below, reinforcement can be used for the device of the supporting structure.

We build formwork;
We make mounting parts from reinforcement A1Ø8 ... 12 (depending on the width of the overlapped gap), taking into account that there must be a distance of at least 30 mm between the bottom of the formwork and the reinforcement;
We lay protective material on the bottom of the formwork;
We install mounting parts;
We lay reinforcement or reinforcing cage;
We concrete.

Do not settle for sealing the gap between the wall and the slab with lightweight concrete cellular blocks (foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, etc.) - they do not have the required bearing capacity. Taking into account the arrangement of furniture along the walls, this area of the floor has a large load, this will lead to the destruction of the blocks and the need for costly repairs to the floor.

The areas between the wall and the slab are sealed in the same way.

This story tells not only about the sealing of the seams, but also about the anchoring of the plates among themselves:

Ceiling seam from the underside

Intertile seams - rustication at installation is filled with concrete, then the ceiling is primed, puttied and painted, if no other finish is provided.

The sequence of sealing rusts

Before concreting the seams are thoroughly cleaned of dust and grout residues with a metal brush, for better adhesion of the mortar to the slab, the side surfaces can be primed.

The prepared fresh concrete solution is unloaded into a container and delivered to the place of work;
With a small width of the rust, the filling is performed at a time, with a large width of the site - in several layers, but not more than after 2 ... 3 hours;
A concreting section of a small width is bayoneted, with a large one it is compacted with a vibrator;
The first week the surface of the monolith is moistened with water daily;
After 28 days, the formwork is removed.

Uneven house shrinkage

It is unpleasant when cracks appear on the ceiling. This often happens due to:

Uneven settlement of the building;
Wrong brand of concrete;
Poor quality concrete.

Let us dwell on the causes of uneven precipitation. It may occur if:

Structural flaws - incorrectly designed foundation;
Foundation arrangements without taking into account geology, the depth of soil freezing and the depth of groundwater;
Poorly executed work on the construction of the foundation and masonry walls;
Poor quality building materials.

To understand the cause of the appearance of cracks, it is sometimes necessary to order a construction expertise.

Decorative ceilings

A protective layer of concrete 30-50 mm thick should ensure that there are no rust stains on the ceiling from reinforcement, but sometimes this layer is ineffective. From seeing stains on the ceiling, traces of leaks and rust cracks the best remedy- the device of a suspended, hemmed or stretch ceiling.

Decorative ceiling - the best solution if necessary, leveling the ceiling surface. It will close all construction flaws and give completeness to the interior. If you want to reduce the height of the room, arrange multi-level or dropped ceilings from drywall, acoustic boards or combined from various materials.

In rooms of small height, hemmed or stretch ceilings are performed. Here is the champion stretch ceiling, which "eats" only 3-5 cm of the height of the room.

Every problem has its solution. Sealing between, even with a large width, does not constitute a big constructive or technical problem. From the proposed options, it is easy to choose the appropriate one for a particular case.

In the apartments of panel houses, the issue of sealing tile ceiling joints is quite acute - no matter how much you cover up and smooth the seam, it will still crack. Fortunately, this situation is not hopeless, and in our article you can find the answer to the question of how to close the seams on the ceiling.

In addition, the problem of the presence of seams is also very relevant for the finishing coating of the ceiling surface. decorative tiles. How to get rid of the seams on the ceiling in this case, we will also figure it out.

Ceiling joint between floor slabs

Before you start the restoration of the ceiling, you need to prepare the following set of tools and materials:

perforator equipped with a nozzle in the form of a spatula;
sharp construction knife;
a small paint brush;
construction pistol;
putty knife;
mounting foam;
leveling mortar;
primer;
putty.

Ceiling joint instructions

Consider how to close the ceiling seam with your own hands so that it is reliable and does not crack over time:

If necessary, the existing seam should be cleaned of the previous finish, leveling layer, etc.
Further, using a perforator with a special nozzle (blade), the seam should be expanded.
Using a construction knife, the seam is thoroughly cleaned of small irregularities and debris. The same should be done in special cases - in places where pipes enter the ceiling or if a wall bar with fastening is installed in the room.
At the end of the cleaning of the seam, its surface must be coated from the inside with a primer solution. It is most convenient to do this with a small paint brush.

Advice! It is better to choose a primer solution with a deep penetration effect.

When the primer is dry, the ceiling joints can be directly grouted.
The depth of the seam must be filled with mounting foam, using a construction gun for this.

You will need to let the foam dry, and then cut off its excess with a sharp knife.
Next, you can proceed to the preparation of the building mixture. The mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package and thoroughly kneaded so that there are no lumps in it.
In order for the seam to be stationary in the end, it is recommended to additionally reinforce it with a construction mesh (serpyanka). The mesh is glued to the seam, and a leveling layer of the building mixture is applied on top of it. It is necessary to seal the seams on the ceiling in such a way that the space between the sickle and the construction foam is completely filled with the mortar.
When the building mixture dries, the seam and the ceiling as a whole can be finally leveled with putty.

Sealing the ceiling, made using this technology, subject to strict adherence to the instructions, will allow you to forget about the cracks that appear on.

Ceiling tiles without seams

If you are planning to paste over and want no visible seams on the tiled surface, it is recommended to use a special “ceiling without seams” tile. A good tool for this can be, for example, a seamless ceiling Format, or ceiling tiles from any other manufacturer.

New technology seamless laying tiles, invented by manufacturers, allows you to minimize the size and visibility of the seams between the elements, to make the surface even and complete.

The seamless ceiling is mounted using a similar technology with conventional tiles, but it has some styling features:

After the purchase, the material should lie down in the repaired room, preferably for a day in unpacked form.
The ceiling base must be well leveled with putty and primed.
Tiles should be carefully sorted, defective (uneven) tiles, if any, should be removed.
After the ceiling markings, glue is applied to the tiles. They do this not only on the back surface of the material, but also on the sides (carefully coat the ends of the tiled elements).

After two tile elements are joined on the ceiling, the ceiling seam (joint) between them is strengthened with construction tape so that the plates remain in their original position after the glue dries.
When the glue dries, the tape can be removed.

Naturally, the technology is not a panacea, and although the seams will be hardly noticeable, they will still take place.

If you want to get rid of even the slightest signs of seams, you can repair them as follows:

Before you seal the seams in the ceiling, you should prepare a suitable putty. As a putty for joints, you can use a special grout,.

Advice! From use silicone sealant it is better to refrain, as it turns yellow over time.

Fill the seam directly from the tube or with a narrow spatula when using a mixture.
The seams must be filled carefully, avoiding gaps, and then remove the remnants of the composition with a clean rag.

So, we found out how to close up a ceiling seam of various nature - between tiles and formed at the junction of decorative ceiling tiles. Using our tips and tricks in practice, you can save yourself from the annoying problem of ceiling seams, make the ceiling in your house complete and beautiful.

From time to time, seams are sealed between floor slabs.

These building elements diverge when the building shrinks and the ground rocks move as a result of a change in temperature conditions.

This problem can be solved in several ways. Some people think that the best option can be installation of plasterboard ceilings.

But the height of some rooms does not allow you to use this option. What is the most suitable way to seal the plates on?

To determine this, you need to familiarize yourself with the list of materials suitable for such work, as well as the applied seam sealing technologies.

If the apartment is located on the top floor and a gap has formed between the floor slabs on the ceiling, there is always a possibility that water will begin to penetrate into the room in the near future.

IN winter time years, these circumstances will cause particular trouble.

Therefore, in similar situations repair work must begin with a revision of the roof, and if the flaws formed on the roof are not eliminated, then sealing the gaps formed between the floor slabs may turn out to be work done in vain.

At the same time, it must be remembered that the seams between the plates can diverge on all floors, and not just on the top ones. Such a problem arises as a result of the process of shrinkage of the building, which occurs in the first months after construction.

Why can water seep through the seams between the plates and what to do about it?

If after inspection roofing no flaws are found, you can start working. When the waterproofing of the roof is unreliable and damaged, then, first of all, you will have to perform certain actions to repair it, which include the replacement of old sheets of roofing material.

Such materials are most often used for roofing in multi-storey buildings. residential buildings with a soft flat roof.

Reliability of a roof is always caused by correctly chosen materials for its covering. Most often, roofing material is used in this area.

The material is commercially available in rolls and is used as a protective agent. roof structure from the ingress of liquid into the building, as well as from the impact environment. Also, roofing material is often used to equip the floor system.

When finishing the roof with roofing felt, the rolls are unfolded on the plane of the roof and at the same time they are heated up with a special burner so that the material adheres better to the surface.

If each roof is reliably protected from moisture penetration into the room, water will never leak from the joints between the floor slabs, which means that stains that do not always fit into the design of the room will not appear on the ceiling.

The use of dry mixes for grouting

As mentioned earlier, the sealing of the seams between the floor slabs on the ceiling can be done in several available ways:

Using dry mixes.
With the use of drywall and other suspended structures.

It is necessary to take a closer look at all available ones, but first of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the most common technology for sealing joints using building mixtures containing cement. The positive side of using this method is its relatively low cost and simplicity.

This method is considered quite reliable if, when using it, all technological process, the main features of which are presented below.

Before proceeding with the laying of the seams itself, it is necessary to carry out preliminary jointing of each gap, as well as their sealing using all the necessary materials:

Mounting foam
Narrow brush with metal bristles
construction knife
Special painting grid
Starting and finishing putty
Perforator
Solution container
Spray
A mixture for priming the treated surface, which is necessary to improve the adhesion of the treated and finishing material, which will be used to process the joint
Elastic putty, for example, latex is well suited
Spatulas varying in size
Sandpaper
Special brushes that differ in size

Repair work and sealing the joints between the plates involves the preliminary cleaning of the entire surface of the ceiling from plaster, paint or whitewash, and you need to start from there. After the dismantling of obsolete coatings, it will be possible to determine the amount of work to be done.

This method of finishing contributes to the appearance of various irregularities and does not make it possible to get a little space for the next layer of the mixture.

After the tile adhesive thickens a little, a special wide sickle mesh is applied to the seam. The width of a typical roll of such material is approximately 50 mm, but for this type finishing works This is not enough.

To use sickle when sealing joints between ceiling slabs, its size should be 150-200 mm. It is for such a mesh that a concrete contact primer is preliminarily applied along the edges of the seams.

The standard gluing method consists in pre-coating the surface to be treated with a minimum layer of mortar, after which a pre-prepared mesh is pressed into it. At the same time, the tile adhesive must penetrate into almost every cell.

You should always remember to properly remove the remnants of the adhesive mixture with an ordinary spatula.

The implementation of this technology is completed by finishing with a primer mixture of dried glue.

Subtleties that everyone needs to know

As mentioned earlier, sealing joints between floor slabs during installation drywall sheets or other building materials are required. But such an alternative is not particularly reliable, so it is recommended to use materials that are more suitable for this type of work, for example, expanding.

To process joints with cement, you will need the following materials:

NC cement used for processing deep joints. Such finishing material during solidification, it always expands, and at the same time, the entire space of joints between the plates is filled.
To finish wide seams, you will need insulation materials of sufficient density, made of polyurethane or special foamed polyester. Instead of these materials, ordinary polyurethane foam is often used.
Elastic .
Reinforcing mesh.
Putty for primary and finishing.
Mounting foam is used before sealing wide gaps. This material is remarkably fixed on a primed surface and will fill the entire opening when expanded.

If, after cleaning, it turns out that the joint is too narrow and at the same time deep, the following action must be performed. Having selected a sealing material of suitable thickness, a layer of sealing agent is applied on one side.

Then it is pushed into the gap between the slabs with a spatula so that there is room for filling with concrete or other mixture.

An alternative technology to the tile adhesive method involves the use of expanding concrete. The joint is smeared with mortar, but it is imperative to leave a small recess, taking into account the expansion properties of the mixture used, as well as decorative plaster.

Elastic putty should be applied to the joint after the mortar has dried and the groove is fully prepared for the next stage of finishing. This is best done using several spatulas of various widths.

Putty is collected on a large tool from a container, and a narrow mixture is applied to the joint. At the same time, the seam is compacted and leveled to the level of the plane of the entire ceiling.

Excess putty must be removed. After that, reinforcement is carried out according to the technology described above.

When sealing joints between floor slabs, it is recommended to putty the entire ceiling so that its surface is perfectly smooth.

How to seal the seams between reinforced concrete slabs, you can see on the video:

Sealing joints between floor slabs is a necessary measure when repair work in an apartment or a private house. Due to voids at the joints, cracks form over time, which has a bad effect not only on appearance dwellings.

The appearance of defects in the overlap

This is the most pressing issue for multi-storey buildings, as the norms are not always observed during construction. As a result, after a few years, the surface begins to change for the worse, including the seam becomes noticeable. Newer houses use more advanced technologies to avoid significant displacement of the structure, but cracks still appear due to shrinkage.

The expansion of the space between the plates also entails:

leakage in the presence of flaws in the roof;
penetration of dampness into the house;
heat loss;
violation design decoration housing;
further displacement of plates relative to each other.

Consider how to close the seam to avoid such negative consequences. It is important to perform the work with high quality in order to permanently get rid of surface defects.

Materials and tools

There are options for how to close up the space:

cement-sand mortar with the addition of plasticizers;
elastic polymer or gypsum plaster;
NTs cement with expansion properties;
sealant;
tile adhesive.

Additionally, the following materials may be needed:

mounting foam;
primer;
polystyrene;
polyethylene foam rollers;
sickle mesh;
starting and finishing putty;
Styrofoam.

These materials are needed to make a heat-insulating barrier and strengthen the plaster layer, which will fill the voids at the joints.

On top of the rough embedding, it is necessary to create a coating suitable for further decoration.

Since it is important to process the seams on the ceiling as evenly and smoothly as possible, you will need the following tools:

flat spatulas of different sizes;
primer brush;
stiff brush for sweeping dust and concrete debris;
perforator with a nozzle "shovel";
sandpaper or construction grater.

Work surface preparation

Start by assessing the extent of the damage. Since most ceilings are covered with plaster, you need to get rid of it with water and a spatula. The old plaster is evenly saturated with a spray gun and allowed to soften, and then the unnecessary layer is carefully cleaned off with a tool.

Where the joint is, it is necessary to clean the seam itself from concrete. Over time, the edges of the plates begin to crumble, so they get rid of the weakened material - they take a puncher and clean out everything unnecessary.

Good adhesion with the mortar should be ensured in order to properly seal the seam. Concrete is treated with a primer, carefully brushing the recessed areas with a brush. It is better to use formulations that will provide additional antiseptic treatment. This will protect the concrete from the formation of fungus, which is indispensable on the upper floors adjacent to the attic.

Seam sealing

Joint insulation. Pre-fill the expanded seam with a material that will serve as a heat insulator. You can use pieces of foam, special polystyrene rollers or mounting foam. The latter expands after drying, therefore it fills all the cracks, and the excess is simply removed with a knife.
Primary sealing of seams on the ceiling. A small depression is cut in the insulation, and the plates are sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Then the solution is applied to the joint. It is recommended to choose expanding mixtures.
Reinforcement. If the composition layer is very thick, it is advised to further strengthen it. To do this, use a special sickle mesh or construct a wire dressing in places where the seam becomes too wide.
Surface smoothing. After the base layer has dried, it is worth correcting the defects and covering the sickle. The protruding parts of the cement are cleaned. It is important that no bumps or voids form in the solution.

Finishing

The final processing of the ceiling joints consists in applying putty, which will completely mask it.

After drying, the solution is rubbed, treated with a primer, and a finishing composition is applied on top. It has a more homogeneous structure, its basis is gypsum and white cement. Putty can then be painted or glued on top of the wallpaper. If the shrinkage of the house is within the normal range, and the work itself was done correctly, cracks should not appear in the next 10 years.

Another option is installation. ceiling tiles. It is attached to the installed frame or glued to the plaster with liquid nails. It is advisable to make a suspension or tension system to hide the wiring and install spotlights.

In any case, you first need to work out the joints between the plates, since the sealed ceiling will be a guarantee of keeping the heat in the house and protecting the room from moisture and destruction.

It is almost impossible to insure against the appearance of ceiling seams, because they are caused by seasonal soil movement, house settlement, and other phenomena. Such defects can cause serious problems, and in order to avoid them, you need to know how to seal the seams on the ceiling between the plates. At first glance, this procedure seems simple, however, in order to achieve the desired result, you need to know all the nuances of its implementation, follow the recommendations, thoroughly and slowly approach the work.

Figure 1 Defect in tile joint.

Required accessories

High-quality sealing of tile joints is impossible without materials and tools that allow you to cope with ceiling joints. For future work you will need:

Grid-serpyanka.
Mounting foam or acrylic sealant.
Latex putty.
Leveling mix.
Special impregnation or primer.

The use of these materials allows you to securely seal and hide the cavity. From the tools you will need:

Perforator or drill with a special nozzle.
Several wide and narrow spatulas.
Sandpaper.
Sealant gun.

Having decided how to cover up the seams between the plates on the ceiling and what tools you need, buy them in advance in a specialized store.

Attention: when choosing, do not forget to pay attention to their quality, carefully read the instructions.

Preparatory work

Before sealing the seam between the tiles on the ceiling, clean up the condition of its entire surface, completely removing the finishing material (whitewash, paint, plaster). To speed up and simplify the process, wet the finishing material on the ceiling with water from a spray bottle or treat the surface with a wet roller and leave for about 15 minutes so that the material is well saturated with moisture. To remove the coating, a spatula is used, which allows you to quickly and easily remove wet plaster or whitewash, significantly reducing the amount of dust.

Figure 2 Removal of dust and concrete particles.

Only by getting rid of the existing coverage, you can fully assess the amount of work ahead. Usually there are up to three seams in one room and all of them must be sealed with high quality, since if only one seam is repaired, after a while the rest will become unusable and the procedure will have to be repeated again.

Most often, the existing seams are sealed poorly, unevenly, and the old mortar should be removed. For these purposes, a puncher is suitable, which allows you to quickly cope with this task. The seam is completely cleaned and deepened by about 5 centimeters, and then, using a brush or a metal brush, concrete particles and dust are removed from it.

Surface treatment

Having finished preparatory work, treat the seam with several layers of impregnation or primer. After applying each layer, wait until it dries, and only then, apply a new one.

Attention: thanks to such processing, the solution present in the seam will become stronger, more reliable, fungus and mold will not form in it, and the adhesion with the repair compound applied later will increase.

In order to effectively prime and fix a seam with a width of more than 3 centimeters, polyurethane foam is suitable. After waiting for it to harden, cut off the foam so that it produces a recess about 3.5 centimeters deep, resembling a triangle narrowing inwards.

Sealing small seams

If the seam is narrow, but deep, a sealant is applied to one side of the polyethylene insulation and tightly filled with a spatula into a pre-prepared joint. After that, the surface is sealed with a special solution and plastered.

After waiting for the solution to dry, an elastic putty is applied to the seam with a spatula. It is advisable to use a wide and narrow tool at the same time - the solution is drawn on the first, and the second, it is applied to the seam, after which the material is compacted and leveled. If there is excess putty, they are immediately removed.

Figure 3 We close the joint on the ceiling.

For high-quality solidification of the solution, it takes about 2 days, after which you can proceed to reinforcement. Apply a small layer of putty to the seam and the part of the ceiling adjacent to it, fix the sickle mesh on it, pressing it into the solution. Excess material is removed with a spatula. When the solution is completely dry, with a roller, two layers of primer are applied to the entire ceiling, then the composition is allowed to dry and proceed to the next stage - surface plastering.

Two layers of plaster are applied to the ceiling. After applying the primary plaster and drying it, the main, final layer is applied to it. It is recommended to use a wide spatula for this purpose, which is convenient for laying and leveling the plaster. After waiting for it to dry, apply whitewash, paint or paste it with wallpaper on the surface.

Cavity sealing

It is not uncommon when, intending to close up the usual small seam between the slabs on the ceiling, after cleaning it turns out that in fact this is not a narrow gap, but a large cavity formed due to a defect in the floor slab. The first thing to do is to remove all debris from the hole with a narrow brush. There are two ways to deal with this problem.

Figure 4 Eliminate the cavity.

Method one:

Two coats of primer are applied to the cavity cleared of debris. In this case, the second layer is applied only after the first is completely dry.
The hole is filled with mounting foam, waiting for it to dry, and the excess is removed.
A hole up to 5 centimeters deep is made in the dried foam.
The cutout is filled with cement, leveled and allowed to dry.
The entire surface near the hole is puttied, then the sickle mesh is pressed in, excess mortar is removed with a spatula, the surface is leveled.

Having dealt with the elimination of the hole, proceed to finish the ceiling, similar to that given when sealing the seams.

Second way:

We take big piece plywood or laminate, about 10 centimeters larger than the diameter of the hole.
We fix a wire grate in the cavity with a solution or sealant, which acts as a kind of reinforcement.
We apply a solution to the plywood (not too thick, homogeneous).
We press the plywood sheet with the solution applied to it to the cavity, trying to ensure that the material completely fills the space.

Attention: in order not to hold the plywood while waiting for the mortar to be completely fixed, it is recommended to use a support, for example, a thick handrail.

When the solution is dry, proceed to finish the entire ceiling.

Seams between ceiling and wall

A fairly common problem is the appearance of a seam between the ceiling and the wall, which is a serious defect and interferes with the reliable finishing of the room. To qualitatively seal the seam on the ceiling between the plates, you can use:

Synthetic putty.
Mounting foam.
Moisture resistant putty.
Gypsum mortar.

As experience shows, the most practical is mounting foam, which can expand when dried, filling the entire cavity.

Figure 5 We close the joint between the ceiling and the wall.

If the joint between the ceiling and the wall is large, use a sickle mesh that fits into the cavity. It can be replaced with a cotton fabric processed in an adhesive solution, applied to the joint. The last stage is the plastering of the surface.

External factors

If the apartment is located on the top floor and you have a seam, the poor-quality roof of the building may be to blame, and before proceeding to eliminate the seam, you need to carefully inspect the roof. After all, sealing internal cavities will not get rid of dripping, fungus, mold, dampness, if the roof leaks and you waste your time, energy and money on repairs.

Carefully inspect the roof, and making sure that it is in good condition, proceed to sealing the seams.

Attention: if the waterproofing of the roof is broken, first eliminate the existing malfunctions, and only then proceed to eliminate the internal joints.

Mounting foam can be replaced with ceramic adhesive, which has proven itself well for sealing deep seams.
Small cracks and seams are well eliminated acrylic sealant. Its silicone counterpart is not recommended, as it is poorly painted over and gradually turns yellow.
An effective substitute for a sickle net is gauze or bandage. You can also use a regular cotton cloth, steamed and moistened with water.
In order not to damage the electrical wiring during repairs, find out in advance its location.

Attention: the process of sealing the seam between the plates is quite simple, which even a beginner can handle, and the full plastering of the ceiling is a rather complicated procedure, which has its own characteristics and nuances, and it is better to entrust this work to an experienced specialist.

Conclusion

The sealing of the seams between the plates is carried out in several stages and each of them should be treated carefully. The preparation and treatment of the cavity consists in cleaning it and applying several layers of impregnation or primer. Once you have completed these steps, you can move on to the main work. The removal of sutures varies somewhat depending on their size and location.

If you live in an apartment on the top floor, make sure that the roof is intact before starting work, otherwise all efforts will be wasted. Having coped with the putty, completely putty the ceiling, and then apply whitewash, paint or wallpaper on it. Despite the apparent complexity, it is not at all difficult to achieve high-quality sealed seams, and even a beginner can handle the procedure.

The main gist of the article:

Before sealing seams, prepare necessary materials and tools.
High-quality preparation and processing of the cavity is the key to a reliable, durable seal.
The size of the cavity depends on how the work is done.
In some cases, it is necessary to ensure the integrity of the roof of the building.
It is recommended to entrust experienced specialists.