How to build a high fence. Simple options for fences to build with your own hands. Calculation of the number of corrugated sheets

Despite its apparent simplicity, the fence is a rather complex architectural structure. In order for the construction to turn out to be aesthetically attractive and reliable, it is necessary to divide the project into several stages, completing each of them with high quality and accuracy.

The choice of fence design

First you need to define common features future fence. Will it be a facade structure or a small module based on the fence of the neighboring area.

When enclosing a cottage with a capital fence, most often they choose options with brickwork or stone.

In order to significantly reduce the load on the foundation, a natural stone combined with polymer elements, mainly on a polycarbonate basis. At the same time, they try to use only solid bricks.

In order to give the masonry the necessary strength, waterproofing is carried out: at intervals of several horizontal rows, a mesh with a large cell or reinforced rods is laid.

Fence with a brick base and inserts made of polymer elements

The simplest type of fence is a chain-link fence. It exerts minimal pressure on the ground, is cheap to maintain, but has poor aesthetics.

Chain link fence

Fence structures that combine several materials look more harmonious. Most often, combinations of an array of rubble (in the lower part) and spans of processed boards, corrugated board, colored polycarbonate, fastened with pillars of ceramic bricks are used.

Pouring the foundation for the fence

Having decided to build a capital fence, before pouring the foundation, it is necessary to conduct geodetic surveys for the presence ground water. The choice of the type of foundation depends on the established properties of the soil.

In swampy areas the best option there will be a tape-pillar base, in which, before mounting the tape, mines are drilled in the soil and filled with concrete mortar.

Tape and pole base for the fence

A roofing material is laid between the soil and the foundation, making it difficult for moisture to reach the concrete. The foundation for a brick fence is reinforced with 12 mm reinforcing bars.

Tape-pillar base for the fence after pouring concrete

Installation of fences from corrugated board and chain-link mesh

The next step is the laying of columns and brick spans. The exact number of sections is calculated using the "empty seam" method and using preliminary sketches. Fences made of chain-link mesh or profiled sheet are erected using a simpler technology. It is also used for the construction of combined fences.

First, markup is carried out for the bases, which are used as pillars from pipe scraps. For one standard roll of chain-link, 4 posts are enough. Mines are drilled in the ground with a rotary. A depth of 1 meter will be sufficient. The diameter of the drill must be at least two hundred millimeters.

Recesses for pillars-supports for the future fence

For reliable waterproofing before installing the pillars, rolled polyethylene or roofing material is inserted into the drilled shafts. First of all, the first and last pillars are installed, which are held in the channels by stretch marks. Then rope beacons are pulled from above and below along one side of the pillars.

Important! Usually, when erecting stone and brick fences, mortgages are made in advance in the masonry. These are metal plates installed in an array of masonry. Subsequently, hinges for gates and gates and locking strips are easily welded to them. Also, sleeves cut from plastic pipe rolling are laid in the masonry. Through them it is easy to stretch electric cables that feed street lamps, electric locks and video cameras.

When marking for vertical supports for fences from a profile sheet, it must be borne in mind that the distance between the posts should be from two and a half to three meters. It is recommended to raise the corrugated board slightly above ground level, by about 10 centimeters. This will prevent the occurrence of congestion from snow and rainwater.

Logs are used as transverse support elements for fences made of profiles - cuttings of pipes of small diameter. They give the fence the necessary rigidity and stability.

Logs and supports must be treated with a special compound to protect the metal from various weather phenomena

For a standard fence, two logs are enough. They are attached to the supporting pillars by welding.

Important! Logs are mounted at a distance of 30 cm from the top edge of the fence and from the edge of the earth. For fences made of corrugated board up to 1.7 m high, two transverse logs are sufficient; for fences from 1.7 to 2 m, it is recommended to install 3 logs.

Sheets of profiles are fastened to the lags with self-tapping screws and overlapped with each other, placing them in one wave.

Fastening corrugated board on logs

Important! To fix the sheets of corrugated board, self-tapping screws 35 mm long with a pitch of 500 mm are used.

Using a level, the pillars of the bases of the future fence from the chain-link mesh are given a strictly vertical position and the shaft is filled with concrete mortar.

After the concrete has hardened, wire guides are pulled between the posts.

Then, with the help of a millimeter wire and pliers, they begin to attach a chain-link web to them.

Learn more about how to install a chain-link fence yourself in the video.

The second way.

The depth of the foundation for combined fences does not exceed 60 centimeters. Support poles up to 120 centimeters high will be a reliable foundation. Screens made of forged gratings or profiles along the perimeter are reinforced with pipe cuts or corners. After installing the support pillars, the screens are hung on steel tabs prudently built into them. At the last stage, waterproofing tops are installed on the columns.

Corrugated fence - the best solution for protecting the territory country house or cottages from prying eyes and unauthorized visits. Fences made of this material serve at least 30 years. The metal profile is extremely easy to process, and a simple installation technique allows you to install a fence around the house or suburban area quickly and with their own hands, without attracting additional labor. Possessing high performance characteristics and durability, measured in decades, the metal profile also performs a decorative function, with which you can ennoble private territory, making it not only inaccessible to prying eyes, but also homely.

Construction of a fence from a metal profile: the pros and cons

A distinctive feature of a metal profile (profiled sheet, corrugated board) is versatility. In addition to the arrangement of roofing and the construction of temporary utility structures (hangars, sheds, garages, etc.), this material is widely used in the construction of fences and fences for various purposes.

The metal profile is made from cold-rolled sheet steel, which is coated with a layer of zinc and a protective polymer film of various colors using a special technology. The thickness of the profiled sheet is 0.4–1.2 cm. At the final stage of production, the sheet laid in rolls, using roll forming equipment (manual or automatic), receives a certain profile (trapeze or wave).

Good to know: The steel base and stiffening ribs provide increased resistance of the material to deformation and force, while galvanizing and polymer coating reliably protect the profiled sheet from rust and mechanical wear.

For the construction of fences, a wall profiled sheet with a profile height of 8 to 44 mm is used. The final cost of the material is influenced by such parameters as:

thickness of the steel base;
availability and quality of galvanization;
the quality of the polymer coating;
profile shape and height.

Advantages of a metal profile

The main advantages of using corrugated board in the construction of fences and fences include:

High performance.
Small specific weight.
Ease of processing and installation.
Durability and resistance to aggressive operating factors.
Relatively low material cost.

The profiled sheet is well protected from rust, deformation, damage and climatic factors. The material is produced in a wide range of sizes, which allows it to be used for the construction of fences of any height and length.

Good to know: The lightness of the profiled sheet, as well as its mechanical rigidity, greatly simplifies the installation process. In addition, when building a fence from this material, the requirements for the strength of the supporting frame are reduced.

Cons of wall corrugated board

The disadvantages of the metal profile used in the construction of fences and barriers include:

Low level of sound insulation (a corrugated fence will not be able to protect the internal territory from noise coming from the street).
Low resistance to destructive effects (it is easy to break through a fence made of such material, say, with a heavy car, or cut a hole in it with a special tool for subsequent penetration into the fenced area).
Low presentability (corrugated board is significantly inferior in external attractiveness to traditional materials used in the construction of fences - wooden and plastic fences, metal, brick or stone).

Good to know: Despite the obvious shortcomings, the professional sheet has no equal in terms of efficiency and has absolute fire resistance. The material is produced in a wide range of colors and an extensive range of shapes and profile sizes, which allows satisfying almost any aesthetic needs of the buyer.

Photo: types of fences, ideas for implementation on the site

Profiled sheet as a decorative trim on the entrance gate
Metal profile fence on metal supports: inside view
Decorative design of a profiled sheet as part of a country fence
Metal profile fence with decorative design: inside view
Fence made of profiled sheet with decorative design
Fence from a profiled sheet on a site with a slope of the terrain
Corrugated fence with brick pillars
Fence from a metal profile on a concrete foundation

Fence project and preparation for construction

It is necessary to carefully prepare for the construction of a fence from a metal profile. Errors in the design and installation process are unacceptable, as they entail unplanned expenses of time, nerves and money.

In order for the construction of the fence to be carried out promptly and not to take an unreasonably large amount of manpower and resources, preparatory stage construction is necessary:

Decide on the type and required characteristics of the metal profile.
Develop a construction project.
Calculate the required amount of materials.
Prepare a set of tools and auxiliary materials necessary for construction.
Perform accurate marking of the fenced area for construction, taking into account the location of gates, entrance gates, terrain slope, etc.

Important to remember: After the purchase and delivery of the main material to the construction site, it must be carefully stacked and covered to protect against premature wear and climatic factors before carrying out installation work. The location of the stacks should not interfere with the passage, passage or placement of other building materials, elements of building structures, vehicles, etc.

What decking to choose?

If the decision to build a fence from a metal profile is made, it remains to choose a material that is suitable in terms of cost and quality. To do this, it is necessary to determine the requirements regarding its protective characteristics, as well as the reliability, durability and resistance of the future fence to wear and damage.

But first, it does not hurt to pre-install:

conditional life of the fence;
priority on the aesthetics of appearance or operational reliability;
design features of the fence and the possibility of replacing its individual elements during operation.

The list of key factors determining the choice of profiled sheet for the construction of the fence includes:

Material brand.
steel thickness.
The quality of the galvanized steel base of the profiled sheet.
type of polymer coating.
Sheet dimensions and profile options
Price-quality ratio.
Durability and wear resistance.
Aesthetic preferences of the owner of the protected area.

Profiled sheet marking

The metal profile has a special marking, which determines its main characteristics and purpose. So, for the construction of a fence, material grade C (wall) or HC (universal) is suitable. The numbers in the marking of the profiled sheet mean:

profile height in mm;
useful sheet width;
thickness of the steel base.

It is important to remember: The thicker the steel base and the higher the zinc content in the protective layer, the more resistant to corrosion and deformation is the profiled sheet. However, at present, galvanizing technology is used less and less in the production of material. A much more reliable protection against corrosion, damage and wear is a special polymer coating, which, moreover, can be set in color and even texture, corresponding to the purpose of the metal profile.

Polymer coating and value for money

The polymer can be applied both on one and both sides of the sheet, which significantly affects the total cost of the material. In addition, the price of the metal profile is determined by the type of this very polymer coating:

Polyester (PE) - film thickness is about 25 microns. The coating is used to protect the inner surface of the material. The film has low resistance to mechanical damage and ultraviolet radiation, which is offset by the low cost of the profiled sheet.
Matte Polyester (PEM) is a 35 µm coating that is gloss-free and resistant to direct sunlight.
Pural (Pural) - a protective film about 50 microns thick. Differs in elasticity, high degree of anticorrosive protection and excellent color quality.
Polyvinyl fluoride (PVF, PVDF, PVF2) - coating with high rates strength and elasticity. Meets increased performance requirements, with excellent resistance to ultraviolet radiation, as well as rust and mechanical damage.
Plastisol (PVC200) is a universal film with a thickness of 200 microns, designed to protect surfaces of any type. Possesses high decorative qualities and elasticity, providing reliable protection of steel against corrosion.

Important to know: The dependence of the price on the type of polymer coating, which largely determines the durability and wear resistance of the material, is obvious. The greatest demand in the construction of fences and barriers is used by a metal profile coated with matte polyester, which has an optimal price / quality ratio. Pural-coated material is also popular, since the latter provides not only high aesthetic performance of the profiled sheet, but also increases the life of the fence.

Profiled sheet parameters

The strength of wall corrugated board depends not so much on the thickness of the steel base (0.1 cm is enough for the construction of a fence), but on the size, shape and thickness of the ribs (waves) of the profile. Therefore, the main attention when buying should be paid to the height of the latter. For the construction of a fence in an area with normal wind loads, a material with a rib whose height does not exceed 21 mm is suitable. As for the required sheet dimensions and the amount of material, they are determined based on the required height of the fence, as well as its perimeter. In this case, it must be borne in mind that the profiled sheet will be mounted with an overlap.

For the construction of fences and barriers, four grades of wall corrugated board are used. Their calculated parameters are given in the table:

Good to know: Wall corrugated board is produced in sheets 12 m long, but before sale it is cut into pieces 2–3 m long that are more convenient for transportation and installation.

Proper design of the fence and calculation of materials, scheme

Before you go to the hardware store for materials, you should correctly calculate their quantity, as well as determine the amount of work on the manufacture of the main elements of the fence design. This can be done only if there is a detailed project. The latter is easy to develop on your own, without involving expensive specialists.

The first and main thing that is necessary for the design is the value of the perimeter of the fenced area. If it is not indicated in the cadastral plan, it will have to be measured independently. For this you will need:

hammer marks (metal or wooden pegs) into the ground at the corners of the site, as well as at points where the fence changes direction;

tie the tags with nylon or linen cord;

calculate the length of the cord between the marks, which will correspond to the value of the perimeter of the site.

The next step is to determine the location and required dimensions of the entrance gate and gate. On the sides of the latter, it is necessary to set marks, measure the distance between them and subtract the obtained value from the total perimeter.

Calculation of the number and size of sections

For example, let's assume that the site has a rectangular shape with sides of 20 and 15 m. Let's take the width of the gate equal to 2.5 m, and set the value for the gate to 1.5 m. In this case, the length of the fence will be equal to: L=(20+15) * 2 - (2.5 + 1.5) \u003d 66 m.
The standard length of the profiled sheet is 12 m, so for ease of transportation and installation it will have to be divided into segments. Therefore, at this stage, it is necessary to calculate how many segments will fit in one section along the length.
Set that the gate will be located next to the gate on the 20-meter side of the perimeter. In this case, the length of the fence in this section will be: l = 20–4 = 16 m. Thus, we take the number of sections equal to 3 meters: 2 sections will have a 5-meter length, and the size of the remaining will be 6 m.
If we take the length of the sections on the opposite side of the perimeter as 5 m, their number here will be 4.
It remains to calculate the number of sections on the 15-meter segments of the perimeter. The calculation is carried out in a similar way: we take the length of the section equal to 5 m. This means that only 6 sections will be obtained along the width of the rectangle - 3 on each side.
Let's calculate the total number of sections: n=2+4+6+1=12+1. Thus, the fence will have 12 sections 5 m long and one 6 m section adjacent to the gate.

Support calculation

Having the value of the number of sections, we calculate the required number of supports using the formula:

From this it follows that for the installation of the fence you will need: K \u003d 13 + 1 \u003d 14 supports.

Important to know: It is convenient to use a profile pipe of square (50 * 50 mm) or round (d = 50 mm) section as supporting posts for a corrugated fence. It should be noted that the length of the supports is a composite value. The outer part should be at least 10–15 cm longer than the corrugated board sheet. This is necessary in order to leave a clearance of 5–10 cm high from below and a height margin in the upper part of about 5 cm. So, for a fence 2 m high, the height of the supports will be 210–215 cm. For installation in the ground, another 80–120 cm will be required (depending on the type of soil, freezing depth and groundwater level), and if the fence is installed on a strip foundation - 40–50 cm.

Subject to necessary requirements to the design of the supports, their length will be:

L og \u003d 200 + 15 + 80 \u003d 295 cm (when installing supports in the ground);

L op \u003d 200 + 15 + 40 \u003d 255 cm (when installed on a foundation).

Calculation of corrugated board

Using the values of the height of the fence, as well as the number and length of sections, the required dimensions and the number of profiled sheets are determined.

The height of the fence is equal to the length of the section of the profiled sheet. If the fence being designed is 2m high, a standard 12m sheet will need to be cut into 6 2m pieces. If a profiled sheet of the C21 brand is chosen for construction, 5 such sheets will go to each 5-meter section and 6 more sections of 1 m wide for the remaining 6-meter section.

As a result, the total number of profiled sheet segments 2 m long will be:

N=n 5 *5+n 6 *6=12*5+1*6=66 segments

where n 5 and n 6 are the number of 5- and 6-meter fence sections.

It is important to remember: The installation of the profiled sheet is carried out with an overlap. This means that each of the sheets will lose a little in length during installation. Thus, when calculating the number and size of sheets relative to the length of the section, the value of the joint size, multiplied by 2, should be subtracted from the total length of the sheathing.

Calculation of transverse logs

For fences made of corrugated board, a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 40 * 20 mm and a length corresponding to the dimensions of each section is used as a transverse log. At the same time, for the installation of a fence with a height of 2 m, no more than 2 tiers of crossbars will be required.

This means that the number of lags for the calculated fence will be:

k=k s *2=13*2=26 lag

where k c is the number of fence sections.

Final result

As a result of the surveys, it was found that for the construction of a fence around the site in question, it is necessary:

26 crossbars;
14 support pillars;
66 sheathing sheets 2 m long.

Then it remains to re-draw the diagram of the site and put on it a projection of the fence with the designation of the number and size of sections, the location of the gate and gate and other important data. The construction project can be considered ready.

Necessary tools and auxiliary materials

In order to independently manufacture and install a fence from corrugated board, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools that you cannot do without in the process of work.

This list should include:

bayonet and shovel;
concrete mixer (if the fence is installed on the foundation or the supports will be installed on concrete);
earthen drill (for mounting support pillars in the ground);
electric scissors;
metal scissors;
electric drill with a set of drills for metal;
screwdriver;
welding machine;
circular saw with discs for metal;
construction tape measure;
measuring cord;
building level;
plumb.

In addition to the basic materials of corrugated board and profile pipe for the manufacture of supports and transverse logs for the construction of the fence, auxiliary means will be needed.

The last list contains:

sand;
crushed stone;
cement;
primer for metal racks and crossbars;
paint;
metal screws or other fasteners for mounting the cladding.

It is important to remember: When cutting metal, in the process of building a foundation or installing supports in the ground, as well as when installing crossbeams and fixing a profiled sheet, it is very important to observe safety precautions. This will avoid injury, as well as damage to the material and breakage of the tool. Protective goggles, gloves and overalls should be used when performing work operations. And most importantly: you need to prepare a free area for work, on which nothing will interfere with the manufacture of fence elements, and bring electricity to it to connect power tools.

How to build a fence from corrugated board with your own hands: step by step instructions

After marking the territory and preparing materials, it's time to start building. The general algorithm of actions is as follows:

pouring the foundation with the installation of vertical supports on it;
installation of support pillars in the ground;
installation of transverse logs;
priming and painting of the metal frame;
cladding installation;
decorative fence.

Good to know: If the installation of the supporting frame is carried out by welding, the welds must be cleaned. Also, plugs of the appropriate shape should be welded onto the support posts, which will prevent moisture from entering the pipe. Holes in metal are best done before assembly, although with a powerful drill and a quality drill, they can be made after. It is advisable to apply a primer and paint on a metal frame before installing the crate so as not to stain the new profiled sheet.

Laying the foundation for a corrugated fence

If the conditional life of the fence exceeds 20 years, or the nature of the soil or the layout of the site does not allow installation in another way, the fence is installed on a strip reinforced concrete foundation.

The foundation is poured in several stages:

With the help of a concrete mixer, a concrete solution is made from sand, crushed stone, cement and water, with which the trench is poured to the desired level. In the process, you should periodically check the vertical of the support posts or fix it to the formwork with a lock from the waste boards.

Important to know: The soil will not take away moisture from the concrete if the bottom of the trench is abundantly moistened before pouring. The finished foundation should be allowed to dry for at least 3 days, after which you can proceed with the installation of the transverse logs.

Installation of support pillars in the ground

If the fence is planned to be used for no more than 15–20 years, the fence is temporary, or the soil or site layout allows installation without pouring the foundation, the support posts are installed in the soil.

There are several ways to install supports, the choice of which depends on the nature of the soil, the depth of groundwater and the height of the fence:

driving;
partial concreting (combined installation);
butovanie (installation on a pillow of sand and gravel);
full concreting (with reinforcement);

The algorithm for installing fence supports into the soil looks like this:

Plugs are welded on the upper and lower ends of the supports, which will prevent moisture and soil from entering the pipe.
The corner supports and poles are installed first at the edges of the gate and gate. In this case, it is necessary to carefully monitor the observance of the vertical level of the supports.
Installed corner posts are knitted with twine or rope to mark the fence line.
The remaining supporting posts of the fence are mounted along the perimeter in the same way, observing the vertical level and the line set from the corner supports.

Important to know: To enhance the bearing capacity of concreted or partially concreted supports, the hole can be reinforced with thin (d = 10 mm) reinforcement.

Installation of fence posts on a site with a slope

If the land plot has a slope, a number of additional steps must be taken when pouring the foundation or installing support pillars. In particular, with a slight slope, the soil should be simply leveled.

When installing a fence on a foundation on a site with an average slope, the procedure will be as follows:

When installing supports in the ground on a site with a slope, the depth of the holes is adjusted in the same way: the bottom of the hole of the first support of the next level should be at the level of the middle of the hole of the last support of the previous one.

Important to know: The level difference in height should be the same along the entire length of the fence.

Installation of the supporting frame

After installing the support pillars in the ground or on the foundation, the installation of transverse logs is carried out. They can be installed by welding or by means of special “crab” fasteners.

When mounting on "crabs" in supports and transverse lags, it is necessary to make holes of the appropriate diameter for bolted connections.

The installation of crossbars for welding is carried out in one of three ways: the logs are butt-welded, on the sides of the support column, or fixed using a holder pre-welded to the support (a section of a U-shaped profile of the required dimensions).

Good to know: The location of the lag and the distance between them depends on the height of the fence. If the latter is 2 m, 40-50 cm must be subtracted from the upper edge of the support - at this level the upper line of the crossbars will be attached. Further down, we retreat 100–120 mm and mark the installation level of the lower lag. Then the distance from the lower crossbar to the ground will be: l=200–40–120=40 cm.

Sheathing with metal profiles and finishing, painting the fence

If the installation of the frame is completed, and plugs are welded on top of the supports, you can proceed to final stage fence sheathing construction. To do this, in the transverse lags with a step equal to the step of the profiled sheet profile, holes are made for fasteners. Before starting work, it is important not to forget to calculate the location of the joints of the metal profile; its sheets are attached directly to each other, bypassing the crossbars.

After installing the sheathing, the fence can be decorated decorative elements. For example, forging or bumpers along the upper and / or lower edge of the profiled sheet. You can also additionally protect the caps of self-tapping screws and bolted connections with special plastic plugs.

It is important to remember: When joining sheets with an overlap, installation is carried out on the upper wave of the profile. Fixing the profiled sheet to the crossbars is carried out in the center of the lower profile wave.

The construction of a fence from corrugated board requires thorough preparation and, most importantly, correctly performed calculations. Then, if you do not make gross mistakes during installation, the work does not take much time and effort. For example, it will take only 3-4 days to fence off a site with a perimeter of 60–70 m, of course, provided that you don’t have to dig a lot to level the soil. The result should be a reliable and durable fence, which will serve as an excellent protection of the site from prying attention and greatly complicate unauthorized entry into the fenced area.

The question of how to make a fence on a garden plot worries both summer residents and owners of private cottages to the same extent. In addition to the functions of separating plots or protecting against the penetration of strangers into the territory of home ownership, the fence also performs an aesthetic purpose. Creative ideas of home craftsmen sometimes lead to the creation of real masterpieces from available materials. But both the elite and the simplest fence in design are built according to the same principles. Therefore, it is useful to know how to properly place a fence on the site.

How to choose the right material?

Among the materials offered on the construction markets, there are a wide variety of products that are perfect for building fences. Among them, the following can be especially noted:

lumber (boards, slabs, pickets) are considered the most affordable and convenient, since almost everyone can process without the use of special equipment and with a minimum set of tools;
corrugated board, metal picket fence, forged sections or polycarbonate during installation require the preliminary installation of metal supports, which means working with materials that are difficult to process;
the chain-link mesh is convenient in itself, but the installation of supports involves the same manipulations as in the previous case;
improvised materials of various kinds leave room for imagination, but require non-standard solutions for installation;
brick, reinforced concrete and stone need to be connected with cement mortar or mesh.

In the latter case, the structure will turn out to be quite heavy, so it is necessary to build a foundation under it. The device of this structural element requires earthwork and concrete work, which greatly complicates the process of erecting a fence. Such massive structures are usually made for a country house in which they live permanently. They are an element of the overall design and are often created from materials that are in harmony with the facade decoration.

Combined designs look very nice.

They include fence elements made of different materials. The most common options for combining brick or stone pillars with metal or lumber.

In each individual case, the owner of the site decides how to choose a fence for the cottage, focusing solely on his own needs. Not the last role in the choice is played by the cost of parts and the entire structure as a whole.

Do I need a permit to build a fence?

Building rules and regulations regulate many aspects of building fences: the distance to water bodies and trees, to buildings for other purposes, to roads, etc. But the SNiP for the installation of a fence is not a law, but only recommendatory acts, on the basis of which the administration of each settlement creates building rules. Most often, permission is requested if you want to install a fence with a height of more than 2 m. The city architect must also allow construction on a corner plot, since an incorrectly installed fence can obstruct the view at the intersection of streets.

The production of fences between sites is also regulated. So that neighboring beds and green spaces do not suffer from a lack of sun, building codes provide that the maximum height of the fence should not exceed 1.5 m. For the same purpose, there is another rule: it must be as transparent as possible. This quality of the fence depends on which material to choose, and on the design of the structure itself. For a fence separating 2 adjacent plots, it is recommended to choose various grids, picket fence, openwork sections made of concrete or metal. In any case, the gap between opaque elements must be at least the width of the part itself.

A blind fence can only be placed from the side of the street, but upon agreement with the neighbors, it is possible to build it between the properties.

In this case, it is better to draw up a written contract even before making a fence in the country.

In order to avoid a dispute between neighbors on land surveying, before making fences, you need to contact the BTI. After accurate measurements of the boundaries of the site, it is necessary to make markings on the ground. This part is mandatory in preparation for the main stages of construction.

Preparatory work

Before you build a fence in the country, you should familiarize yourself with the options for its design. For inspiration, an illustration in a book, and frames from your favorite films, and your own fantasy or a beautiful fence near some cottage are suitable. fence projects for country houses are also available in the architectural bureau: when applying for permission, you can simultaneously solve the issue of choosing the appearance of the fence for the dacha. Having considered the sketches of the fences or creating them yourself, you can draw up a plan of the site and determine its length and width.

Based on these data, it is easy to calculate how much material is required for the pillars and the fence. The fence scheme must be drawn to scale so that the calculation is as accurate as possible. In some cases, you will also need to consider how high the fence should be. When purchasing reinforced concrete products, boards and sheet materials, one has to reckon with standard sizes individual elements.

After the plan is drawn up, you can make markings on the ground. This will require pegs (pegs) and a thin cord. If the border along which fences and fences for the house are erected is a straight line, then it will be enough to drive in stakes at the corners of the site. With curvilinear outlines of private households, landmarks will have to be placed on relatively straight parts of the border. A cord is pulled tightly between the stakes, along which the entire row of supporting posts for the fence will subsequently be aligned.

Using a tape measure, you need to find and designate the location of each support and the location of the entrance group.

Typically, the spacing of the columns is 2 m, but this is an optional figure. Sections can be made smaller, but it is not recommended to install long spans: the mesh may sag, and blind fences will have too much windage with a minimum of fasteners. When choosing accessories for a fence with fixed dimensions, you need to determine the step depending on the length of the material. At the location of each pole, a peg must be driven in, since the mark on the ground can be washed away by rain or accidentally erased when people and animals move.

What is needed for construction?

Building a fence with your own hands should begin with the purchase of some materials and tools that may be needed in the work. In order not to make a mistake with the choice, you need to know what the fence consists of, and based on this, decide what it can be built from. The main details of any design are the supporting elements (pillars), veins or slabs (horizontal fastenings) and the fence canvas (a plane made of some material).

Having decided what to make a fence from, and determining the amount the right materials, home master goes to the store and buys the following tools and accessories for the fence:

shovel;
plumb and level;
roulette;
a saw for wood or a grinder (for a metal fence);
hammer and nails or self-tapping screws and a screwdriver;
poles for support (bar 10x10 cm or steel pipe with a diameter of 10 cm);
cement, sand and gravel;
corner or thin pipe for metal veins;
bar 5x5 cm for wooden parts;
materials for a cloth of a fence - at own choice.

When building a fence made of polycarbonate, corrugated board or netting, you will definitely need a welding machine to attach the veins to the posts. But this service can be ordered at a trade organization, providing dimensions and a sketch, or you can call the master at home, because not everyone knows how to make welds correctly.

When building a country fence with your own hands from non-traditional materials, you will have to think through the method of attaching the canvas to the supports yourself. If a heavy stone structure is planned, then bricks or natural material will be required.

For gabion structures, you will have to purchase a special mesh.

Fence installation technology

Light fences and fences for the house are built according to the same principles. Regardless of what material is chosen for fencing the site, the construction of fences is carried out according to the following scheme:

After the marking has been made and the place of each pillar has been marked, it is necessary to dig holes for the supports. Since deep pits have to be expanded when working with a shovel and the post may move during installation, the mark can be transferred to the cord by marking the center of the support with colored tape or thread. After that, the pole must be pulled out and a hole dug at least 50 cm deep. It is desirable that its bottom be below the freezing point of the soil.
Backfill by filling the pit with crushed stone with a layer of 15–20 cm. Tamp the material.
Place a post in the hole, aligning it with the mark and vertical. In order for it to maintain its position, it is necessary to spread it with large stones or wooden wedges. If the work is done with an assistant, then he can hold the support in the desired position. Fill the pit with crushed stone mixed with sand and dry cement (4:3:1, respectively) to the top, ramming in the process of backfilling. Check the verticality of the post again and lightly pour water over the cement-crushed stone mixture (the amount of liquid is approximately 1/10 of the volume of the mixture).
Install the rest of the posts in the same way. It will be possible to continue work in 24-48 hours.
When the footing grabs, you can begin to fasten the veins. It is advisable to calculate the places of their installation in such a way that the ends of the boards or the edges of the sheet material are no more than 30–40 cm above and below them. If the canvas is selected partially transparent (fence, polycarbonate, mesh), the same distance from the upper and lower edges of the canvas to the veins will look beautiful. Check the horizontal level of each bed.
After installing the horizontal structural elements, you can begin to fasten the fence web. Separate parts (board, fence) are installed individually, fastening is done on nails or self-tapping screws. Before you make a fence with your own hands, it is advisable to pull the cord to align the piece elements in height. The horizontality of a profiled sheet or polycarbonate is easier to check with a level.
To make a gate made of wood, the bars must be laid parallel to each other and stuffed with pickets on them, making sure that the parts do not move. Turn it inside out and measure the bar for making a diagonal stiffener. Cut off its ends at an angle, lay between horizontal bars and attach with nails or self-tapping screws to each vertical bar at the intersection. For a wicket or gate made of sheet material, it is necessary to weld a metal frame on which to fix a profiled sheet, mesh or polycarbonate cut to the size of the product.

According to these rules, you can build a budget fence in a summer cottage from relatively cheap materials. You can complement and decorate it with decorative columns made of brick or stone. To do this, after installing the vertical supports and attaching the veins steel pipes they cover with building materials, connecting the elements of the masonry with cement mortar (1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand). In the presence of a large number bricks can be laid out and a decorative plinth under the sections.

Thanks to this design, a fence placed near the house with your own hands looks much more solid than an ordinary fence made of metal profiles or chain-links on a frame. brickwork it can also be combined with wood, but the supports still need to be made of steel, welding short sections of the corner onto them, to which sections can be attached after the construction of brick pillars.

A home-made fence made of openwork bent or forged sections will turn out to be especially stylish and elegant. It's not the best cheap option, but the owner has the right to decide on his own which fence is in better harmony with his house. Ready-made sections can be bought or ordered according to your own sketches in a construction company or blacksmith shop.

They are installed by welding.

The original fence for giving with your own hands can be built from waste material. Many collect empty plastic bottles in order to make a variety of objects out of them. Country fences were no exception: connecting empty containers with wire or cement, people make reliable fences for a plot in a gardening cooperative.

For the manufacture of 1 element of the fence, you can cut off the bottoms of bottles of the same size. After that, the parts are strung on a fishing line or wire, passing it through the lid. The bottles are pushed one into the other through the cut off lower parts until they stop. The line is fixed.

Having made a lot of such "pickets", they should be strung on a thick steel wire tied to poles. Aligning piece elements in height, the wire is passed through side surfaces bottles at the top and bottom. If the plastic fence is very high, you can make 3-4 horizontal rows of wire for greater strength of the fence.

Plastic fences for a private house can be done differently. This will require a concrete solution of sand and cement. After pouring the foundation and a low plinth (about 20 cm), PET bottles are placed horizontally in the formwork, placing their bottoms in one vertical plane. After that, a number of empty containers are poured with a solution and the procedure is repeated until the desired height is reached.

Decorative wooden fences

If the plot in a private house is decorated in a rustic style, then a wattle fence or a fence made of poles will be a great addition to the design of the garden. The first option involves the creation of a fence of vertical posts intertwined with flexible material. By clearing a new area or neighborhood of American maple, willow, or other shrubs with long, straight twigs, you can get rid of debris and create a beautiful fence at the same time.

Many people know how to properly install a decorative wattle fence: this is the most common type of fence in Russian villages. Even the presence modern materials did not reduce the popularity of durable and cheap fences. To make wattle, a series of thick stakes are driven into the ground. The step between them is small, only 50–60 cm. After all the stakes are installed along the marking line, they are intertwined with horizontally arranged flexible rods.

The pole fence has rather a symbolic meaning, marking the border of the site.

Several horizontal crossbars are tied or nailed to the dug-in pillars. The distance between them is quite large (up to 50 cm), so such a fence will not save from unauthorized entry. It can be used as a fence between plots.

Gabion fences

There is another way how to put up a fence without extra costs time and money using waste materials. To create a gabion, a rigid galvanized welded mesh is used. The most important thing is to choose a cell size so that the content does not fall out.

To install the structure, you need to dig in steel poles, as for a conventional fence.

The grid is positioned so that the columns are between 2 of its layers. The space inside can be filled with cobblestone or stone fragments, broken glass, rubble, etc.

After filling 50 cm of the gabion height, you need to install a number of hooks (braces) so that the mesh does not deform during further filling. The step between the braces is 30-50 cm. After that, you can fill another 50 cm of volume and reinforce the wall with hooks again. So proceed to the end, raising the filler layer to the very top of the mesh.

Fence designs can be very different. It is important to monitor the verticality of the columns at the very first stage of construction. Knowing how to properly install the supports, the master will be able to cope with the rest of the operations without much effort.

Often, a fence for a summer cottage is erected temporarily, for the subsequent construction of a more solid structure. And often there is simply not enough money for a solid fence, so we are looking for the cheapest fence for a summer residence as an option.

To make the fence cost quite inexpensively, we will build it with our own hands. Before installing the type of fence you have chosen, be sure to take an interest in the technology of its installation and consult with a specialist.

Cheap fence for giving, options

The price of the fence is affected by the size of the structure and the material from which it will be made. Accordingly, a high fence is more expensive than a low one, and a solid fence is more expensive than a transparent one. A structure that is attached to dug-in or concreted pillars will turn out to be cheaper than a fence mounted on a strip foundation.

Wooden picket fence - the most budget option

From such inexpensive material you can make a completely beautiful and original fence for a summer residence. An example of this is a photo of finished fences.

This is a very popular fence material. The picket fence is a plank of wood, 18 to 22 mm thick and 7 to 14 cm wide.

The height of the picket fence can be from 1.2 to 4 meters. To fasten this material, horizontal girders are used, fixed on oak, metal or concrete posts.

The approximate price of a picket fence is 700 rubles/sq.m. The final cost of the fence largely depends on the chosen installation option. For example, installing a picket fence in a checkerboard pattern or a herringbone pattern increases the price of the structure by 15-20%. The strip foundation, instead of simply driving the posts into the ground, adds 20-25% to the cost.

Fences made of thin wicker boards and a blockhouse are more expensive (from 1000 rubles / sq.m). A fence made of wicker boards attracts attention with an original look, and a blockhouse fence wins the hearts of summer residents with the quality factor of a wooden log house.

The type of fence "Ranch" came to us from the Wild West. For its construction, wide horizontal boards or beams are used, which fasten low wooden poles. The disadvantage of such a fence is that it does not protect the site from the entry of unauthorized persons and even small animals. It is quite understandable, since this fence was created for a vast pasture area. But installing it does not take much time. And in terms of the cost of materials and work, such a fence is comparable to the price of a picket fence.

Wattle fence for a suburban area

Such a fence made of hazel or willow branches is liked by fans of the rustic style. It is original, strong enough and durable. With a strong desire, the technique of weaving branches can be mastered with your own hands in a matter of hours. If you have no time to engage in manual creativity, then you will have to pay from 500 rubles per 1 square meter for the manufacture and installation of wattle.

Anyone who is interested in building a cheap fence for a summer residence, we advise you to pay attention to an unedged board. Freeing it from the bark, sanding and varnishing, you can get a beautiful fence for a summer cottage at the lowest price (about 550 rubles / sq.m.).

Regarding the durability of wooden fences… The service life of autoclaved wood increases to 30 years. The service life of an ordinary, painted board does not exceed 15 years.

Fence for giving from a chain-link grid

The cheapest fence can be built from a chain-link mesh. It is issued in different options height (1.0-3.0 meters), length 10-18 meters and cell size 20-100 mm. To protect the wire from corrosion, galvanizing and polymer coating are used.

You can put up such a fence by rolling out the mesh and fixing it to metal or concrete pillars. The second option is the manufacture of mesh sections, that is, frames from corners or pipes and their installation on poles.

The service life of mesh fences reaches 30 years. Such fences do not obscure the site and at the same time are reliable, as they create a serious barrier to uninvited guests.

The average price of 1 square meter of a turnkey chain-link fence is 180-240 rubles.

Fence for giving from eurostudent

The popularity of wooden picket fences prompted stamped metal manufacturers to create something similar. The result is a very aesthetic and durable material.

In terms of service life, wood cannot be compared with it. In addition, the fence made of eurostudent does not require periodic painting and antiseptics. The protective polymer film, which is used to cover galvanized steel, retains its color and integrity for 25-30 years.

Installation of a fence made of eurostudent, taking into account the price of materials and work, is from 800 rubles per 1 sq.m.

Country fence made of corrugated board

Today it is the leader of country fence construction. This is a dumb fence. Its affordable price allows any summer resident to use it to protect their site. Through such a fence not a single living soul will penetrate. Installation of a fence from a professional flooring is simple, and therefore inexpensive. Added to this is a huge selection. colors and textured profile sheet.

Use corrugated board with a thickness of 0.5 mm. It is not much more expensive than 0.4 mm thick flooring, but it will not be covered with dents and will not lose its attractiveness.
The pitch of the supports should be no more than 2-2.5 meters, ideally 1.5 meters. And if we take the distance between the supports at 3 m, then under the influence of wind loads, the fence canvas will begin to bend and may lose its original appearance.
Dig in the support pipes to a depth of at least 1.5 meters and be sure to concrete them.
The fence posts must be made of a pipe 60-80 mm, with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm.
Take corrugated board with double-sided, polymer coated, since galvanized flooring (without painting), after two years, becomes stained, loses its luster and may begin to corrode.

Fence for giving from slate

For the installation of such a deaf fence, both flat and wavy asbestos-cement slate are used. The first is stronger because it has a greater thickness.

Installation flat slate large format (1.5 x 3 meters) is faster than the installation of a smaller wavy (1.75 x 1.125 m). They put the slate on steel profile runs, welded or bolted to metal posts.

The slate fence has high strength, as well as heat and frost resistance. It is more durable than wood and is not afraid of corrosion like metal. However, this material has a significant drawback - it is fragile and nondescript in appearance. And if nothing can be done about the first minus, then the second can be easily corrected - paint the slate.

Bottom line: the cheapest fence for a summer residence is a chain-link fence (200 rubles / sq.m.), the second place in price is fences made of welded mesh, wooden picket fence and unedged boards (450-600 rubles / sq.m.) , we give the third place in our rating to fences made of corrugated board, slate, blockhouse and edged board(700-1000 rubles/sq.m.).

fence posts

During the construction of the fence, much attention is paid to the installation of pillars - the supporting part of the fence. And the more reliably they are installed, the stronger the fence will be, which means it will last longer.

Installation of fence posts

During construction, 3 methods of installing support pillars are used.

Direct driving into the ground
Partial concreting. It is carried out in two ways: pouring a concrete collar, or filling a well below the soil freezing line.
Full concrete pouring of the underground part of the rack, including the strip foundation

Which method to choose depends on the quality of the soil on the site, its saturation with moisture and the degree of freezing. Also, the choice of installation option is influenced by vertical and lateral loads created by the weight of the structure and its windage. If you decide to install a solid fence, then it must withstand the wind well, the load from which often exceeds the weight of the fence.

Direct driving of posts into the ground speeds up and reduces the cost of building a fence, but it also has many disadvantages.

If the soil is soft or loose, then the rack may loosen over time under the influence of the wind, since the fences have a large windage (if they are made of corrugated board, polycarbonate, boards).
If the height of the pole is planned to be higher than 2 meters, even from a chain-link mesh, then this method of installing the poles will also not work - any strong wind will also shake the structure.
If your site has clayey moist soil that swells at low temperatures, then the supports will crawl out of the soil by 10 centimeters already in the first winter.

That is, fence posts simply driven into the ground cannot carry a large mass load. Such an installation is suitable only for low fences with low windage. Or if there is rocky hard ground on the site.

concreting a little more complicated and costly than the first method of attaching fence supports. And yes, it will take more time. Only the hardening of concrete will take 3 weeks. But this method is more reliable, since concrete pillars will last 30-50 years without tilting. Moreover, strengthening concrete mix suitable for all types of fences, including heavy ones.

Fence brick posts

A brick support without a reliable connection with the foundation, even despite its solid weight, will not last long. A strong wind load, acting on solid sections of the fence, inevitably leads to the overturning of a column that is not fixed in the foundation. In addition, do not forget about seasonal ground movements. Falling and rising a couple of centimeters up and down during the year, the foundation must work in conjunction with the posts and sections of the fence.

The optimal design of the foundation with brick pillars, designed for a corrugated fence, is clearly illustrated by the diagram in the photo.

You can see that a steel rod made of a square pipe or a reinforcing cage is installed in the brick posts. Embedded plates are welded to it. Steel purlins are attached to them under a profiled sheet or picket fence.

Foundation type - strip rubble concrete or concrete. A trench is dug under it, and pits with a diameter of 15-20 cm are drilled at the places where the pillars are installed. First, concrete is poured into wells with pillar racks installed in them. After that, layer-by-layer concreting of the trench begins.

The main parameters of the foundation (laying depth, width, degree of reinforcement) and the height of the fence are determined by calculating the strength and stability.

For the installation of brick pillars for the fence, we used the following dimensions

trench depth - 20-30 cm;
the depth of the well for the installation of metal racks of brick pillars, counting from the surface of the earth - 90-100 cm;
the height of the grillage (the upper part of the foundation, located above the surface of the earth) - 40-60 cm;
foundation width - 20-35 cm;
the distance between the pillars is from 2.5 to 3 meters;
the height of the pillars is from 150 to 180 cm (the cross section of the masonry is 38x38 cm).

In wet soils, it is necessary to drill holes for racks below the freezing depth so that frost heaving forces do not deform the fence.

In weak and unstable soils, in the upper part of the foundation, before concreting, it is advisable to lay a reinforcing cage of 4-6 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm. It will preserve the integrity of the foundation and perceive the loads that occur in concrete during subsidence of the soil.

The laying of brick pillars begins no earlier than 2-3 weeks after concreting. Having laid waterproofing under the posts, you can get to work.

Perfectly even seams are a guarantee of an excellent appearance of brick columns. Experienced masons use pieces of a square bar to simplify the work, which serves as a seam template.

In the photo there is a brick support post with a section of 38 x 38 cm. Two reinforcing bars are installed inside for reinforcement. The space between them and the masonry is filled with fine-grained concrete or mortar.

For fences two or more meters high, the size of the column section is increased to 51 x 63 cm or 64 x 77 cm. Accordingly, the dimensions of the reinforcing frame increase.

metal fence posts

Steel supports are well suited for fences made of corrugated board, wood, plastic, metal mesh, welded and forged fences. These are one of the most affordable and durable solutions for installing any fence.

Iron poles are different types: made of round and profile pipes, screw. They also differ in height, metal thickness and diameter. It is possible to make such supports for the fence from new materials, as well as from used ones.

The diameter of a column from an ordinary pipe is usually 57, 76, 89 mm. The wall thickness can be any, but the thicker, the longer its service life.

For difficult soils, screw metal piles are used. At the bottom they have a cutting blade that allows you to insert the pipe into the soil quickly, without the use of complex equipment. With the help of this blade, the pipe is firmly held in the ground.

Distance between fence posts

When choosing metal poles, take into account our experience:

for a fence height of 2-2.5 meters, take a section of a profile pipe of 60 x 40 mm, products of 40 x 40 mm in size are suitable for 1.5 hedges,
optimal diameter round pipe- 57 mm,
the maximum size of the corners of the channels installed one by one, take equal to 90 and 160 mm, respectively,
the interval between the posts should be within 2-3 meters. A smaller distance is inexpedient from the point of view of economy, but a larger one sharply reduces the reliability of the structure.

Our calculation of the pitch of the pillars with a section length of 13.4 meters and a fence height of 1.5 meters

Divide this distance into 4 sections, you get a length of 3.23 meters. With such an interval, the fence can be built from korpich or chain-link mesh on metal poles. It is undesirable to install a profiled sheet or other solid material, as the racks will be loosened by the wind.
If divided into 5 sections, you get a step of 2.56 meters. This interval is suitable for most designs.
A breakdown into 6 spans will give a distance between the pillars of 2.12 meters. You will get a reliable structure, but the price of the fence will increase. Although in this case you can save money if you take poles with a smaller section.

The optimal distance between the posts of a solid fence 2 meters high is 2.5 meters. This is an ideal option in terms of price / quality ratio when it comes to popular fences made of corrugated board on metal supports.

Often, among the questions about country fences, a fence between cottages is considered. Neighbors in the plots find out what kind of fence they can fence off so that it does not contradict the rules. How high can a fence be placed and what should it be made of. Best Option in this case, the use of mesh for fencing. Or make a decorative living fence out of climbing plants. The main thing is not to forget that there should not be a deep shadow from the fence, which naturally will not please the neighbors in the country, since horticultural crops will grow poorly in this place.