Drain holes with their own hands. Arrangement of the sewerage system of a country house: do-it-yourself cesspool. What is a drain hole

Citizens, using plumbing, as a rule, do not think about where the waste water then flows. But the owners country houses The problem of waste disposal often has to be solved independently. Consider how to properly make a drain hole. After all, it is this popular option local sewerage is the simplest, cheapest and most affordable for self-construction.

When landscaping the house and the site, the first thing they do is to build water supply and sewerage systems. Since it is quite difficult to imagine a comfortable life if you need to carry water from a well.

There are a lot of options for organizing wastewater disposal, but the simplest and therefore very popular is the construction of a drain pit. Consider how to make a drain pit with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders.

Types of drain pits

For all its simplicity, the drain pit can have a different design. Here are the most common options:

sealed pit.
filter hole.
Double pit.

sealed pit

This version of the local sewage system is the safest for the environment, since all drains from the house disappear into a sealed sump and remain there until they are pumped out by sewers.

Thus, there is no risk of contaminated water getting into the ground and soil water, that is, the presence of this type of sewage on the site does not affect the ecological systems. The disadvantage of this waste disposal option is the need to regularly pump out the accumulated liquid.

Filter drain pit

Sanitary rules allow the construction of filter-type drain pits only if the volume of wastewater per day is less than a cubic meter. If Wastewater a little, they have time to be recycled by natural decomposition. Pits of this type can be built for a bath, as well as for a house in which there is a separation of drains.

In the latter case, two sewer branches and two drain pits are constructed. In the first (filter type) drains are transported from the shower room, from the washbasin, washing machine, which is relatively pure. In the second (sealed type), drains from toilets and the kitchen should be transported.

Two-chamber drain pit

Another practical solution to the problem of how to build a drain pit is the construction of a two-chamber installation. Consider the principle of operation of such a treatment plant:

The pit consists of two chambers connected at the top by an overflow.
The first chamber is sealed, the second is filtering.
Drains (undivided) come from the house to the first sealed chamber, where they are mechanically separated, that is, they are simply settled. Solid inclusions sink to the bottom, and relatively pure water overflows into the second chamber.
From the second chamber, water is filtered into the ground.
Waste that accumulates in the first chamber should be pumped out periodically.

Advice! So that the drain pit can be cleaned less often, it is recommended to use special biological products. Bacteria recycle organic matter, reducing the amount of solid waste.

Construction planning

Before you make a drain pit, you should draw up a construction plan. It is necessary to decide on the type of structure, choose the place of construction and determine the required volume of tanks.

How to determine the volume of the drain pit?

The main indicator on which the volume of the drain pit will depend is the intensity of use of a residential facility. It is clear that a larger pit is needed for a house than for a summer residence.

Advice! Of course, it is better to determine the volume of effluents individually, but there are generally accepted norms. So, for a family of three people permanently residing in the house, a pit with a capacity of 6 cubic meters should be built.

When determining the volume of the tank, the following factors should be taken into account:

Availability of sewer services.
The volume that sewage equipment can pump out at a time.

Where is the drain hole located?

Soil water should lie deep enough on the site, since the minimum depth of the pit is two meters.
If there is a source nearby drinking water, then the pit should be placed at a distance of at least 30 meters from it.
The cesspool cannot be placed on a slope.
Provision should be made for the availability of free passages for servicing the pit.
You can not have a hole next to the house and the fence of the neighboring area. The minimum distance to housing is five meters.

In a word, it is quite difficult to choose a place for construction, especially if the site is already equipped. However, you cannot deviate from the above rules.

The choice of material for construction

For the construction of a sealed pit, the following materials are used:

Concrete solution. A formwork is being built into which the mortar is poured. The thickness of the walls and the bottom should be at least 7 cm, it is advisable to reinforce with a steel mesh.
Plastic containers. This is the least labor intensive option. A pit is being prepared, in which the finished plastic container.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of deformation of containers under the action of soil pressure, as well as its floating during spring floods, it is recommended to concret the walls and bottom of the pit. When concreting the bottom, special fastening loops are laid, to which the plastic tank is tied with polymer belts.

concrete rings.
Ceramic brick.

When choosing the last two options, you have to carry out additional measures to seal the seams. To do this, the brickwork (or the joints between the rings) is treated with mortar from the inside, the bottom of the pit is concreted.

Additionally, from the inside, the walls are covered with a bitumen solution, and from the outside they are covered with a thick (20 cm) layer of greasy clay. And what is the best way to overlay the drain pit if a filtering version of the treatment plant is being built? There are no less options. Great for:

Brick. The walls should be laid out so that between the rows there are five-centimeter gaps arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
Reinforced concrete rings. Manufacturers specially produce rings for the construction of drainage wells, they are perforated. If it was not possible to buy such rings, holes in solid products can be made independently using a perforator.
Old car tires. From this improvised material, you can easily assemble a drainage well. Tires are stacked one above the other, having previously cut off the lower rim on each of them.
Old plastic or metal barrels. For the construction of the pit, a barrel without a bottom is used, while a number of holes are made in its lower part for better water filtration.

Stages of construction of a drain pit

Let's consider how to properly make a drain pit, provided that the work is done independently:

Construction begins with the preparation of a pit and trenches for laying a supply pipeline.
The pit should have a greater depth than the planned depth of the drain pit, since a drainage cushion is arranged at its bottom.
The drainage cushion is made by pouring a layer of sand and gravel, each layer is qualitatively compacted.
If the pit is airtight, then the height of the layers can be 10-15 cm. Either a ready-made reinforced concrete slab should be placed on top of the drainage pillow, or a concrete screed should be made.
If a filter pit is being built, then the crushed stone layer should be at least 20 cm so that the drains are better cleaned and the bottom does not silt longer.
Next, the walls of the tank are strengthened, that is, brickwork is performed, concrete rings or plastic containers are installed, depending on the chosen construction material.
If a sealed tank is being built, then after the walls are strengthened, they are waterproofed.
At this stage, the connection of the supply pipeline to the receiving tank is also carried out. The connection of the pipe with the tank must be tight, but not rigid, so that it does not collapse under the action of soil movements. It is convenient to use rubber couplings.

At a distance of about 40 cm from the surface of the earth, an overlap for the pit is arranged. As a rule, a finished reinforced concrete slab with a hole for a hatch is used as a floor. If desired, such a slab can be cast independently, having previously constructed the formwork.
Alternatively, thick boards can be used to build the floor, but in this case, it will turn out to be less durable.
A hatch must be made in the ceiling to check the filling of the pit and pump out its contents.
It is advisable to install on the cover and the ventilation pipe. Indeed, in the process of decomposition of waste, various gases are formed, including methane, which is explosive. Therefore, it is better to provide for the possibility of ventilation.
From above, the overlap can be covered with soil. The soil must be filled with a mound to prevent rainwater from flowing into the pit.

So, if it is planned to arrange a local sewerage system, the construction of a drain pit is one of the simplest, but, at the same time, convenient and practical options. It does not hurt for beginners in the construction business to visually see how to make a drain pit - a video describing the stages of work can be found on construction sites.

The presence of a drain pit in a personal subsidiary plot is a convincing evidence of the ever-increasing introduction into our lives of moderately comfortable and quite functional autonomous systems life support. The sewerage system built on the basis of such a pit provides, as you know, the discharge of used water and sewage, without which the normal functioning of the household plot would be impossible.

Location selection

Do-it-yourself work on making a drain pit should begin with the preparation of its location, which should be selected taking into account the following conditions:

The level of location of groundwater in a given area does not have a special influence on the choice of the location of the pit; this indicator can only affect the type of structure being built (pit with filter drainage or a completely sealed structure).

Note! If wells and wells are located near the proposed location of the pit, the minimum distance to them should be at least 30 meters.

Waste tank volume

Before preparing a place for a drain pit, it is also necessary to correctly calculate its working volume. This parameter is usually determined by a number of factors and depends on the frequency of using household services in the house and bath, as well as on the total number of permanent residents of your home.

Appearance

It is estimated that up to 0.5 cubic meters should be allocated per person on average. meters of the volume of the drain pit, although most often such a calculation gives only a rough estimate. This calculated indicator can also be affected by the quality of the soil at the site of the pit preparation (loam, for example, delays the filtration of drain water, which will require a larger supply in volume).

In addition, due to the impregnation of the soil with the fatty components of the waste, over time it may completely stop accepting effluents. That is why the volume of the drain pit should be chosen with a good margin (for a family of three, for example, the estimated volume should be at least 6 cubic meters).

The choice of material and shape of the tank

When preparing a tank for a drain pit, the following building materials can be used:

ordinary brick;
modern plastic material;
concrete rings.

As a basis for the tank, you can also use any container that is suitable in size, namely: a barrel with a knocked out bottom, a body from a washing machine, or car tires stacked on top of each other.

The shape of the drain pit is chosen, as a rule, based on the selected container. Experience shows that the most effective form is a cylinder, which has greater mechanical strength and allows even distribution of loads on the tank walls.

Note! Cubic-shaped tanks are significantly inferior to cylindrical tanks, since they cannot withstand increased loads due to the uneven distribution of the latter over the surfaces of the structure.

Pit made of ceramic bricks

Ceramic brick is considered the most suitable material for making a tank for a drain pit, since it has an increased service life and resists dampness well. Brick work usually begins with the preparation of a pit with pre-calculated dimensions.

Under the brick, you can arrange the lightest foundation, recruited from scrap stones or rubble, for example. The walls are usually laid out in half a brick, which will allow you to save on material (taking into account the small gaps between the ends that are left to filter wastewater).

After laying several crowns, you can make drainage bedding, which is placed in the gap between the walls of the drain pit and the brickwork and is a mixture of crushed stone, pebbles and construction debris (its height rarely exceeds 20-30 cm).

Note! The walls of the brick pit should be brought to a mark located approximately 80 cm below the soil level. At this level, the well formed is closed with a factory-made reinforced concrete slab, which acts as a ceiling.

In this concrete structure, a special hatch must be provided, which is necessary for filling the hose of a sewage machine that pumps out solid fractions of sewage. The hatch must be equipped with a reliable cover that excludes the possibility of an accident (children falling into a pit, for example). From above, the overlap can be covered with the remaining earthworks soil and, in order to improve the site, arrange a flower bed at this place.

Reservoir made of concrete rings

A drain tank in a suburban area can also be made from standard reinforced concrete blanks, designed in the form of rings. iron pit concrete rings should be built with the involvement of special lifting equipment, so in this case you cannot do without the help of specialists.

Work in this case is carried out in the following sequence:

First, the first ring is installed in a pre-prepared pit, which, after sampling excess soil, will gradually settle into the ground (under its own weight).
Then, on top of this ring, a second annular blank with the same seat size is installed. (Thanks to the protrusions on the edges of the rings, they can be connected to each other and as a result, a one-piece structure can be obtained).
The soil should be selected until the entire structure of the rings completely settles into the ground.
To get a full-fledged drain pit, 2 or 3 rings are usually enough (their number depends on the planned depth of your catchment area).

Further operations are performed in the same order as described for the brick pit. Special attention it should be noted at that moment that the last (upper) ring should rise above the soil level by at least 20-30 cm.

Lack of centralized sewer system on a suburban area can be easily compensated by the device of an autonomously operating system for collecting wastewater.

In order not to waste money and time searching for qualified specialists, all the work can be done independently. How to properly make a drain pit will be discussed in this article.

Tools and materials needed to create a drain pit:

Shovel or other earth-moving tool.
Crushed stone, sand.
Reinforced concrete rings or bricks.
Roulette.
Concrete mix.
Mastic.

Volume determination

The size of the required volume of the drain pit directly depends on how intensively the residential facility is used. If the whole family lives in the house throughout the year, then it is necessary to build a structure designed for a large amount of sewage. A much smaller drain pit is being built at dachas, which are used primarily for summer recreation.

If water is actively used in a private house for domestic and household needs, it is recommended to build not one drain pit, but a network of wells that allow you to clean the drains and divert the already purified water into the ground. When calculating the required volume of the drain pit, the availability of the services of sewage equipment and the volume of sewage that the machine can pump out at a time are taken into account. The cost of these services directly depends on the degree of remoteness from the treatment plant, so it will be very expensive to call equipment to pump out a not very large drain pit.

Location selection

When determining a suitable location for a drain pit, the following factors are taken into account:

If there is a height difference on the site, then a drain pit is built in a lowland.
The pit is not dug in close proximity to the house - the distance from the pit to the building must be at least 5 m.
The place must have access to a free entrance for special cleaning equipment.
The distance from the pit to the water source must be at least 30 m.
The groundwater level on the site must be at a sufficient depth, because the depth of the drain pit must be at least 2 m.

Creation technology

First of all, earthworks are carried out. It is best to dig a hole with an excavator, but if it is not possible to use it or if the site is abundantly planted with green plants, then they dig with an ordinary shovel. Taking into account the arrangement of the drainage cushion, the depth of the mine is usually about 4 m.
Next, a layer of crushed stone and sand is poured to the bottom and it is well compacted. If the drain pit is not planned to be sealed, then you need to fill in a thicker layer of rubble. This will provide better filtration of drains and protect the bottom of the pit from silting. If a sealed structure is planned, then a concrete slab is laid on top of the pillow or a concrete screed is made inside the pit.
Drainage pit walls can be lined wooden planks or solid red brick (the easiest option). Brickwork must be done in a checkerboard pattern. This will allow runoff to seep through the holes into the ground. Around brickwork it is recommended to pour brick or crushed stone. This measure will increase the rate of moisture absorption. The drain hole can be reinforced with tractor tires, but finding them has been very difficult lately.

Pit arrangement

Very quickly and not expensively, you can make a cesspool of reinforced concrete rings. In this case, factory-made rings are used. They are delivered to the house on a truck, which is equipped with a lifting device. If there is a convenient access, using a crane-manipulator, concrete rings are mounted in a pre-prepared pit.

If it is impossible to drive up to the chosen place, the rings are manually rolled up to the dug hole and are gradually installed using a block lifting tool. When carrying out work, it is necessary to strictly observe safety rules. As the hole is dug, the rings are lowered one by one according to the following algorithm.

First of all, excavation is carried out to a depth of 1 m. Next, using the block, install the 1st ring. After that, excavation continues from under the ring. In this case, it is imperative to set up supports that will prevent uneven lowering of the ring deep into the pit. The second one is placed on top of the lowered ring, fastening them together with metal brackets. The algorithm must be repeated until all the rings are installed in the pit. At the end, a ceiling with a special hole for the hatch is mounted. The hole is subsequently closed with a plastic or cast iron cap. The gaps between the concrete rings and the walls of the pit are covered in layers with crushed stone and carefully rammed.

To make the structure more airtight, the junctions of the various parts and the seams are coated with bituminous mastic. Particularly carefully close the gap in the hole, which is made to enter the main sewer pipe(it is laid under a slope - at least 2 cm per 1 m of the pipeline).

For safety reasons, it is necessary to lay reinforcement or metal corners over the entire surface of the drain pit. After that, formwork is made and concrete is poured. On the surface you need to leave a hole for the ventilation pipe and the inspection hatch. Most often, the hatch is made double, and the space between the covers is filled with mineral wool or foam. The drain hole needs to be improved. To not get spoiled appearance personal plot, the territory is covered with soil and decorative plantings are planted.

tightness

In order to save the environment suburban area, make a completely sealed drain pit. Thus, the waste will not pollute the soil at all, but you will have to pay for regular calls to the sewage truck. Ready-made plastic containers are ideal for these purposes. Their volume usually does not exceed 1000 liters.

Plastic tanks, which are enclosed in a metal crate, are also called eurocubes. These devices are sold in specialized stores. They are usually supplied with a plastic or wooden pallet. Often they are used to transport liquids, but recently they have expanded their scope of operation. To prevent this container from being pushed out during the seasonal movement of the soil, it is poured with a concrete frame.

It must be remembered that with any options for constructing a cesspool, you will have to use the services of a sewage machine. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of its entrance in advance. At the same time, it is necessary to try to minimize the area of invasion of the site.

If there is no centralized sewage system near the house, then the arrangement of a cesspool can be considered as a solution to the problem. In any house where there is a supply of hot and cold water supply, there is a problem of collecting and discharging sewage.

A cesspool is the easiest sewer option in a private or country house, which you can do with your own hands.

Where should the cesspool be located?

To start, need to decide on a location on which the cesspool system will be equipped.

directly on the site adjacent to a private or country house;
arrangement is possible at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a residential building and other buildings on the backyard territory and to structures located in the neighborhood;

Important! This requirement is based on the fact that with a closer installation of an unsealed pit without pumping out, the foundations of nearby buildings can be destroyed, as well as their flooding.

the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least one meter;
depth should not be more than 3 meters. When choosing, you need to take into account the depth of the passage of groundwater;
the pit must be at a certain distance (25 meters) from drinking wells.

Given distance depends on the type of soil in the backyard:

With clay soil - no closer than 20 meters;
With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters;
With sandy and sandy soil - a cesspool cannot be installed closer than 50 meters from the well.

Do-it-yourself cesspool device

There are two main types of pit arrangement:

sealed;
plain without a bottom.

The option of arranging sewerage in a country or private house is determined by the location of the territory, the daily amount of wastewater and the material capabilities of the owner of the site:

if the daily amount of sewage is not more than one cubic meter, it is possible to build a simple system without a bottom and without pumping. In a pit of this type, effluents partially go into the ground, in which they are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria. An example of this cesspool is the classic rural toilet;
with a large amount of wastewater (more than a cubic meter), the construction of a sealed structure is required, which needs to be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is explained by the fact that in the absence of a bottom in the pit, waste water passes into the ground and cleaning is carried out by microorganisms located in the depths of the earth. But their cleaning capabilities are not unlimited.

With large amounts of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with water purification. In this case, wastewater will begin to pollute the adjacent area and it is possible that they will pass into the water-bearing soil layers with further contamination of the drinking well.

If disposal is required a large number wastewater, you can consider the arrangement of a septic tank with filtration fields.

Do-it-yourself ordinary sewer

The simplest waste system is done like this:

digging a pit up to two meters deep, two meters wide and up to three meters long;
the walls of the earth are laid or fixed;
a layer of crushed stone is poured down;
a protective cover with a cover is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

ease of operation;
low cost of construction and operation;
simple and quick DIY construction.

Disadvantages of a pit without a bottom:

groundwater level must be below the level of the sewage system;
not suitable for sewerage of a large amount of sewage water;
environmentally unsafe;
possible unscheduled filling due to rainwater;
has an unpleasant odor.

Sealed waste pit

A sealed sewage system is a sealed container where sewer water is pumped out through pipes. As the tank fills, sewage water must be pumped out with a special machine.

The main advantages of a sealed system:

the installation site does not depend on the type of soil on the site;
does not depend on the passage of groundwater;
environmentally safe, sewer water does not enter the environment.

Cons of sealed design:

there is a smell if the drive is made in the form of a well;
monthly costs (you need to periodically call a sewage truck for pumping);
relatively high construction cost.

What to build a drain pit with your own hands

Consider different types and ways to design drain systems that you can do yourself. They are conditionally divided into permanent and temporary.

From car tires

If you need a drain system for a toilet in a country house at minimal cost, you can make it yourself using old car tires.

It's fast and a budget option construction of a sewer pit. The design is pretty simple. A pit is being made, where old tires are stacked one on top of the other. A layer of crushed stone is poured on the bottom of the pit, if desired, the tires are sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

if necessary, easily restored;
durability;
speed, simplicity and low cost of construction.

Flaws:

tires rot over time;
the possibility of a negative impact on the environment with a high load on the structure;
rapid siltation with insufficient cleaning and pumping out, as a result, useful area is lost.

From concrete rings

This is another way to quickly build a drain system. Its design is similar to a well. Rings are stacked on top of each other. The connections between them, if desired, are sealed with a cement screed.

By its design, a sewer pit made of concrete rings refers more to hermetic structures. That's why you need to pump it regularly. Although there is an option to install a septic tank from concrete rings.

Main advantages:

convenience of the device of a protective cover with the hatch;
durability;
the possibility of building with your own hands;
relatively low cost.

Flaws:

the possibility of manifestation bad smell from ventilation pipes;
the need for periodic pumping;
laborious installation.

Drainage pit made of bricks

This is the most successful and best option if you need a drain system for a toilet or bath in a country house.

Advantages:

ease of construction - almost any summer resident can handle bricklaying for a drain pit;
environmental friendliness - the contents of the drain structure are periodically pumped out by a sewage machine.

Flaws:

siltation. It is possible to prevent silting with the help of constant pumping out of the liquid in the storage tank;
relatively short service life (up to 20 years), as a result of the destruction of bricks in unfavorable conditions of the drain system;
Periodically, an unpleasant odor is likely to form. The use of various preparations that accelerate the processes of waste decomposition and timely pumping out of the drive can help to cope with this.

Construction of a brick pit

First you need to decide on the installation site of the drain pit, observing all the rules and taking into account ease of use.

We choose a design. Given the purpose, a drain brick pit can be rectangular, square or round.

We calculate the required volume, dimensions and prepare the pit for the pit.

With a rectangular design, we tilt the bottom towards the installation of the hatch. We pour a sand cushion at the bottom of the pit, with a layer of 20 cm and fill it with cement mortar. You can take a finished reinforced concrete slab of the required size. A cement screed is made on top.

We do wall laying. The optimal thickness of the walls is 30 cm. It is advisable to lay the walls in a checkerboard pattern in half a brick. Laying in a quarter of a brick is possible.

Then, when the walls are ready, you need to treat them with bituminous mastic or make a clay castle from the outside for better sealing. If necessary, then plaster the inner surface.

Installation of the hatch and ceiling

Then, when the base of the drain pit is ready, we install a ceiling with a hatch. Overlap is required not less than 50 cm close the hole around the perimeter.

In the role of overlap, concrete slabs are chosen or logs are carefully laid. When arranging the cesspool floor, it is necessary to provide a location for the hatch. The hatch is made in the size of 70 cm.

On top of the stele overlap, waterproofing from a film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil measuring 0.5 m.

Attention! To protect against the appearance of a smell from the drain pit and its freezing, the hatch into the pit is installed double. The top cover is located on the surface of the earth, and the other at the level of the ceiling. Appeared space in the bow is filled thermal insulation materials(slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).

Sewer pit from a barrel

This is an excellent option for arranging do-it-yourself water runoff with natural cleaning of the cesspool with small amounts of runoff (up to 1 cubic meter).

Barrel preparation:

use 200 liter barrel, best of all from a material that does not corrode, we make holes in the wall in a checkerboard pattern for drainage with a drill or grinder. It is desirable to make holes with a distance of 15-25 centimeters;
we tightly fasten a pipe to the bottom of the barrel for connecting a drain pipe. To ensure sealing, you can use silicone sealants. We process the connection area of the pipe with mastic;
we wrap the barrel with geotextile and firmly fasten it with twine. This is necessary to ensure that the tank is protected from soil and other foreign particles entering its structure while maintaining normal drainage.

Installation of a cesspool sewer system:

we make a trench and lay sewer pipes, certainly with a slope;
we prepare a pit with a depth and size slightly higher than the depth of the barrel;
down the pit we fall asleep gravel or gravel with a layer of 20 cm;
we put a barrel on this pillow and connect the drain pipe;
the resulting space between the walls of the pit and the container is filled with gravel or gravel;
We connect the sewer pipe to the installed pipe.

Now the sewer pit for your bath is ready. You can also make a drain hole for the toilet with your own hands.

As an option for arranging a sewer home system you can consider the device of a cesspool concrete drain pit.

Stages of construction of a concrete pit:

Using this technology, you can also make a drain hole for the toilet with your own hands.

Summarizing

There are quite a few options to build a drain cesspool yourself. Choosing a specific solution, taking into account specific conditions and material possibilities. You can also consider installing a septic tank or buying a ready-made kit for arranging a drain pit.

One of the most important stages in the arrangement of the bath is the organization of timely disposal of wastewater into a treatment plant. The most affordable option for a sewer system is a drain pit for a bath.

To ensure the safe use of the drainage system, before starting work, it is recommended to carefully study its design features and perform necessary calculations, and at the stage of construction - follow the main recommendations of specialists.

Types of drain holes

There are three types of waste pits: a sealed tank, a drainage pit, and a multi-chamber septic tank.

Sealed cesspool- the simplest and safe option structures, which excludes the penetration of polluting effluents and household chemicals into the soil and aquifer. It is built on land with a high level of groundwater.

The design is represented by a simple sealed tank dug into the ground to the required depth. A feature of the cesspool is the need for regular pumping of accumulated water runoff. The significant disadvantages of a sealed tank include the complexity and high cost of maintenance.

A drainage pit for draining is the most popular option for private baths that do not have bathrooms. In this case, an open container is arranged that does not have a sealed base. A gravel-crushed stone mixture is used as a bottom filter. The design of the drainage pit provides for the presence of special holes necessary for the withdrawal of the purified liquid into the soil.

The primary sealed chamber provides for the collection and initial filtration of wastewater: solid waste sinks to the bottom, and the liquid undergoes additional purification by aerobic microorganisms. The tank is connected to the second compartment by an overflow pipe, which provides the supply of purified liquid. The second chamber performs the function of a drainage pit, where water undergoes secondary purification and is discharged into the soil.

If the septic tank consists of three compartments, then the drainage chamber is installed last. In this case, a deeper purification from impurities and pollutants takes place in the second chamber, after which the purified liquid enters the drainage tank.

Available materials for building a drain pit

Choice suitable material for the construction of a drain drainage pit under the bath depends on design features facilities, the volume of wastewater and the financial capabilities of the owner of the site.

barrel pits

Tanks can be built from barrels, metal and plastic, of various sizes. Such a system involves the use of one or two drainage tanks:

One container. The bottom of the prepared pit is covered with a drainage mixture of crushed stone and gravel, then a plastic container without a bottom and with a perforated surface is lowered into it. The distance between the barrel and the pit is covered with drainage. A waste pipe is connected to the barrel at an angle. Part of the liquid through the drainage holes will flow into the soil for further cleaning.
Two containers. Such a system involves the use of two barrels, with the first set 25 cm above the second. The tanks are connected to each other by an overflow pipe. Effluent enters the first tank, in which third-party impurities and solid waste settle. Further, the purified liquid is poured into the second tank, to which perforated pipes for drainage are connected. Waste elements are installed in trenches filled with drainage material and a dense layer of soil.

brick pits

For the arrangement of drain pits, ceramic bricks are used, the laying of which is carried out with small gaps - they provide drainage into the drainage pad and soil. The principle of operation of such a drainage system does not differ from the previous one, the difference lies in the material used. The distance between the brick tank and the earthen base is filled with drainage material designed to clean the drains and distribute them around the perimeter of the pit.

A brick pit is considered more durable and practical than a plastic barrel construction.

concrete pits

At technical equipment and financial opportunities, it is possible to build a drainage pit from concrete rings with a perforated surface, which are mounted in a prepared pit. After the installation of the rings is completed, the bottom of the structure is covered with a drainage cushion made of gravel and crushed stone.

In the case when the depth of the pit is at least 2 meters, and the bottom of the tank is concreted, such a structure can be used both to drain effluents from the bathhouse and to sewer a residential building.

Pits from tires

Cesspools made from used tires are designed to drain liquid waste, so they are well suited for the needs of a bath.

The arrangement of the drain system during the installation of tires can be carried out different ways, including lateral perforation of the walls, compliance with the technological gap between the installed slopes, cutting the outer walls while maintaining the internal structure of the tires.

This is the simplest and most popular option for organizing drainage under the bath, according to which the work can be done by hand.

Step-by-step arrangement of a drainage pit for a bath

Now let's consider a question that interests many - how to make a drain hole for a bath with your own hands. The easiest option for beginners is a drainage pit from a barrel. A metal barrel with a volume of up to 250 liters is used as a drain tank.

First you need to choose a suitable place for the pit. The distance from the foundation of the bath to the cleaning device should be from 3 to 7 meters. When determining the depth of the sewer pit, it is important to consider the total volume of effluents and ground water. The optimal value is no more than 7 meters.

The process of arranging a pit for drains provides for a phased implementation of work.

Pit preparation and pipe laying

Preparation of the construction site for the pit. From the base of the bath, an earthen ditch should be dug, having the necessary slope for convenient drainage. The average slope is 4 degrees per linear meter. The bottom is insulated and covered with drainage from gravel and sand. A drainage pipe is laid on the pillow, connecting the steam room and the waste pit.
Next, they dig a pit and also insulate. At the bottom, a drainage pillow is made of gravel and crushed stone (thickness up to 25 cm).

Drain tank preparation

The side surfaces of the barrel are perforated with a grinder in increments of 18 cm in a checkerboard pattern.
A hole is made in the bottom for mounting the pipe, which will be connected to the drain pipe with a fastening sleeve. The connecting joint is treated with sealant from the inside and outside.
The barrel is wrapped with geotextile material, which will ensure reliable drainage of wastewater and prevent foreign objects from entering the container. Geotextiles are fixed over the entire surface with twine or construction tape.

Installation of the tank in the pit

The barrel is installed on a drainage cushion so that the pipe is located on top.
All formed voids between the walls of the pit and the barrel are covered with fine gravel.
The branch pipe is connected to the sewer pipe laid earlier.

Features of laying a sewer pipe

Drain pipe laying - milestone in arrangement. According to building codes the pipe is laid at the stage of foundation construction. It is located at the bottom of the base with a slope towards the drainage pit. When pipe laying is required for the finished building, installation is carried out under the floor of the steam room.

To properly install the pipe, the following rules must be observed:

Bends, turns and joints are not allowed during installation of the product. This can lead to blockages in any part of the pipe.
After the installation of the drainage system is completed, a concrete screed of the bath floors is carried out with a slope towards the drain hole. After the screed has completely dried, the floor is tiled or porcelain stoneware, on top of which wooden lattices of a removable type are installed. They will provide protection against burns in direct contact with heated flooring. In addition, the grids are easily dismantled for drying and treatment with antiseptic compounds.
The drain is closed with a protective grate to prevent possible clogging of the sewer pipe.

Important! Bath floors do not require additional insulation. With high-quality concreting and cladding, such a base warms up during the heating process and prevents the penetration of cold from the outside.

How to make a drain hole for a bath is a question that will not take the owners of such buildings by surprise. After all, organize reliable system It is not difficult to drain wastewater from improvised materials and without the involvement of a construction team, the main thing is the attitude and a serious approach to business.