How to assemble a rack with the right dimensions at home. How to make a Rack in a Garage or a Barn - Do-it-yourself drawings of a shelf from bars

Why for housewives? Yes, because a real man, the head of the family, he already knows all this and knows how. He doesn't need instructions. Maybe he won’t bother with all this antimony at all, but will simply stop by on the way from work to the store and buy a ready-made rack. Housewives are also different. Some have no time at all, or are "out of their dignity" to engage in carpentry work. But there are those who find it easier to do it themselves than ... well, you understand. In this article, I put three experiments at once. Each one is important and interesting in its own way. Do you want to participate?

We will not only make a wooden rack

Firstly, I will try to determine for myself whether a housewife can make a rack with her own hands. We will not set super-tasks. Our product will modestly stand somewhere in the closet or in the garage. None of the guests and other honored visitors will most likely even see him. And if so, we will not make it super perfect. I will show what materials and tools will be required, in what order and what will need to be done.

As an example, let's take my own product, which I built the other day. Tired, you know, when there are some boxes and bags everywhere. That would be to remove them somewhere out of sight. And for the tool shelves would not hurt. In a word, I, as is usually the case, tested the technology on myself. Having received a quite acceptable result, I decided to disseminate the experience.

I must say right away that I made it in the shape of the letter "G", but for simplicity, we will consider the construction of a straight product 178 cm long, 200 cm high, 60 cm deep. Why exactly these dimensions, I will tell later.

Secondly, it is necessary to check in practice the common belief that it is cheaper to make a similar thing yourself than to buy a ready-made one. To do this, I specifically once again went to IKEA and OBI stores, photographed samples of finished racks and materials with prices. Having an idea of how much we need, we can easily calculate how much a similar rack made by ourselves will cost us. Let's see what's cheaper.

Thirdly, I decided purely for myself to find out what will happen to the pieces of wood if they are not processed at all, or coated with impregnation, or varnish. I specifically selected 8 pieces wooden lining, which remained after the erection of the rack, and processed them with different compositions. Let's see what happens to them over time. And then, maybe, all these impregnations are a complete swindle? We will discuss this in more detail at the end of the article.

So, we decided on the goals, now let's go to the store

What racks are sold in stores

I confess, I could not go around all the stores. Therefore, here we will look at examples from the IKEA store (please do not consider it an advertisement, although I really like this store).

To begin with, let's look at products assembled on the basis of metal rails attached to the wall. For example, these are:

As you can see, the whole structure hangs on the wall. There are 3 guides to which brackets are attached, to which shelves, baskets, etc. are attached in turn. The variety of options for hanging elements is simply amazing:

You yourself collect the necessary elements, from which you can then make at least a wardrobe, even shelves for a laundry, even a workplace with a table. It would seem that this is the solution. Everything looks very neat, openwork, at any time you can move the shelf higher or lower, if something is not enough, buy it over time.

Of course, this is a very good option. Especially for storage. I mean, it’s not always possible to put this in a room, but in an auxiliary room - it’s the very thing!

Another big plus of this option: you can really buy everything you need in parts, as funds become available. Moreover, it is over time, in the process of use, that an understanding arises that what it is necessary to have in the composition of the rack. Therefore, you can immediately buy only a few basic parts, and buy the rest later, if necessary.

Everything is very cool. But when I decided to estimate the total amount of the set I needed, it became somehow uncomfortable:

This is exactly what I need - a rack in the shape of the letter "G":

If you have the opportunity to buy such a thing, then you can not read further. Buy it - it's great.

I am moving to another department where wooden racks are sold. There are a lot of them, so I will show only a couple, which "fell eyes".

Here is an option for 4550 rubles.

The item is good, but the width is too small. I need the whole wall - 187 cm.

Here corner option. Price - 7490 rubles.

I don't consider it successful. The shelves are narrow, the side modules are low, a lot of space above them will remain unused. In addition, the strength of the horizontal corner elements on which the shelves lie is questionable. They do not have a vertical bearing support. In my humble opinion, they will collapse if you put something heavier.

Here's a better option:

Price - 4960 rubles. The shelves are deep, the whole structure is high enough to optimally use the entire height of the room - 3 meters. The width is only insufficient, but we are not going to buy it. Let's just take this design as a basis. After all, in fact, there is nothing so complicated here. See for yourself:

There are wooden vertical bars, horizontal bars are attached to them, and shelves lie on them. That, in fact, is all. Of course, the IKEA product will turn out to be more accurate and functional. After all, any shelf can eventually be rearranged to a different height. Fortunately, each of them is attached to the verticals separately:

It would be possible to do this too, but we will simplify the design a bit. We will get not so universal, but more simply and cheaply.

Well? The idea is clear, let's go to collect materials.

What you need to make a rack at home

The very first thing is to determine the amount of material needed.

In order to build a straight rack (we'll talk about the L-shape later), we need:

8 vertical supports about two meters long,
12 horizontal bars about 55 cm long,
about 15 boards 187 cm long (along the length of the wall), which will become shelves (their number depends on the width),
16 metal corners with holes,
40 screws (you can take more of them, because some will be lost during work),
60 thin nails for fastening boards, shelves,
a can of impregnation for wood (you can do without, but I would recommend),
a can of varnish (optional).

In addition, you will need tools:

hammer,
screwdriver or screwdriver
hacksaw or
tassel.

Just want to say that the material is also different. For example, you can take these beautiful bars with rounded corners as vertical racks:

If we built our rack on them, it would turn out even more beautiful than in IKEA. But the cost of each such two-meter rack would immediately knock us out of the budget:

After all, we need 8 pieces (and I need ten to build an L-shaped rack). This immediately turns out to be 2792 rubles. Consider that you haven’t really bought anything yet, but there are no more “three-rubles”. With some regret, I had to abandon this beautiful option.

There are even more beautiful materials. For example - mounting lags:

Unfortunately, in the photo they turned out to be unsightly, but in reality they are impeccable dark brown bars, pasted over with some kind of film. It's nice to take it in hand. Alas, the price is appropriate:

It would be a pleasure to work with them. And the rack would have turned out such that you can even put it in the upper room. But the price of the product would be too high.

At the other extreme - the usual unplaned bars with splinters. If we were to make verticals out of them, then we would spend only 440 rubles on all 8 pieces. For all eight! They cost only 55 rubles apiece. Only the view of our rack will be terrible. For a barn, in principle, it will do. But for the home pantry ... However, of course, it's up to you to decide.

Personally, I settled on these bars:

Their price is 105 rubles apiece. Therefore, for 8 pieces you will have to pay 840 rubles. What did you think? Considered if do-it-yourself shelving, then it will turn out in general is free? Alas, this myth needs a serious rethinking for a long time. Of course, you can go to the forest, chop logs there, bring them (I wonder on what?), At home, cut perfectly even bars out of them with a longitudinal saw ... continue to continue? And what? But it will be free. Especially if the foresters do not catch :).

Another thing - there is always a place where you can buy the same thing cheaper. But for free... Let's not talk about it.

The main thing when you choose bars, you need to carefully check them:

for cracks, they are useless to you,
for the presence of large knots - this is the place of a potential fracture,
for straightness

Don't be surprised about the latter. Other bars in the store were curved like a Robin Hood bow. Well, maybe not so much, but the curvature was visible to the eye. Therefore, when you choose the sticks, each one must be placed on the floor (I hope it is even in the store). First on one side, then on the other. The straighter the workpiece, the less installation problems. The task is to score 8 at least relatively straight bars. And be glad that you don't need eighty of them.

So, in our cart there is already the first purchase.

Now we need to take care of the horizontal bars on which the planks of the shelves will lie. First you need to think about how deep your rack will have. For example, I made it 60 cm deep so that you can put car tires down. Much depends on how much free space is available in the room.

You can try to look for bars of the right size, or you can buy long ones and cut them yourself. It will come out cheaper. Let's say, here is such a two-meter bar

costs only 55 rubles:

It will make 4 magnificent crossbars ... And why four, you ask. After all, the depth of the rack is 60 cm. If you divide 2 meters by 4, you get 50 cm each. The answer is: you counted correctly. But the whole point is how exactly to fix these crossbars. Their length will indeed be 50 cm. But together with the thickness of the vertical bars, the overall depth of the product is 4.7 + 50 + 4.7 = 59.4 cm. For good measure - 60!

The only exception is the uppermost crossbars. They will lie directly on the supports from above, so their length will be longer by the width of the supports = almost 60 cm.

Based on this, and given that we are still discussing a straight rack, we will need 4 of the mentioned two-meter bars with a total cost of 220 rubles.

Now we need to take care of the boards for the shelves. The options here may vary. For example, I bought an ordinary lining for this:

It is clear that one separate plank does not look very strong. In truth, I myself doubted whether the shelf from the lining could withstand heavy loads. Practice has shown - perfectly withstands. The fact is that each shelf consists of 5 boards, and the distance between the supports is quite small.

Of course, if you stand on such a shelf with your feet, the result will be obvious. But boxes, bags and other things fit quite well on my finished product. So we boldly put two packages of wooden lining on our cart. Our check immediately increases by 832 rubles.

Note that 216 rubles is for square meter. The cost of packaging is 416 rubles. Try to take a lining of such a length that there is as little waste as possible. For example, the length of each shelf in my case was 187 cm. Therefore, a lining 2 meters long was the best choice. Others were 2.5, 3 meters long and were more expensive.

Corners can be taken the most common:

If you wish, you can buy painted:

Perhaps there is some sense in buying corners with longer planes. The point here is not even a greater bearing capacity. It just makes them easier to screw on. Especially if you are going to do it not with a screwdriver, but with an ordinary screwdriver.

All of these options are more expensive. Which one to stop is up to you. I bought the cheapest corners for 9 rubles apiece. Later, when I started screwing them on, I noticed with surprise that they, it turns out, had come to my dacha from distant India:

You can’t say anything, probably, this is indeed the nearest place where they are produced. But now, when one of the guests dares to release some kind of echidna regarding my product, I will stick such a label directly on his forehead (I didn’t throw them away on purpose) and say that I made the rack from imported components :)

As for the screws, these or a little longer will do:

I did not dare to take shorter ones - they may not hold a shelf. With these screws we will fasten the vertical racks and horizontal shelf holders by means of corners.

Carnations are needed in order to fix the planks of the lining, which will become the planes of the shelves. Of course, you can also do it with screws, but there are at least three reasons why I would still recommend studs.

Hammering a nail is faster than driving a screw. Of course, there are exceptions to this rule. It is necessary to make allowance for the crooked hammer and other annoying circumstances.
If you screw 5 screws in a row into a wooden block, then it can simply split along. Carnations are thinner than screws, the likelihood of chipping is much less. Although, of course, if you try, and bang with all your might, saying "I'm the strongest", then anything can happen.
Nails are cheaper than screws.

True, comparing the price tags in the photo, you can easily question the last item on the list. I agree, it’s just that there was no smaller package with nails, and they are really cheaper.

Now we need impregnation for wood. If you do not process it, then over time our product will darken, some bark beetles may attack it, or even decay processes will begin. So I personally "soaked" my pieces of wood. Whether you do the same is up to you. Just in case, I will show an example of impregnation that would suit us:

I confess honestly. I didn't buy this jar. I still have impregnation from the last big story with painting the floor and stairs. By the way, with the help of impregnation, you can paint the wood in a darker color. There are two color options in the previous photo. There are others.

In addition to impregnation, you will need a brush. You don't have to buy anything particularly expensive here. Any one with a width of 4-6 cm will do. For example, this one:

I can already hear screams that the price is too high. That the same brush can be bought three times cheaper. Agree. Just be prepared for the fact that the bristles from a cheaper analogue will come out three times faster :). You know how nice it is: with one hand you paint, and with the other you remove the hairs from the surface! Almost a creative process.

On this optimistic note, we finish the set of material and roll our cart to the checkout. If you take everything to a minimum, then the purchase price is as follows:

vertical racks - 840 rubles.
horizontal bars - 220 rubles.
lining - 832 rubles.
corners - 144 rubles.
screws - 79 rubles.
nails - 99 rubles.
impregnation - 399 rubles.
brush - 149 rubles.

TOTAL: 2762 rubles.

Basically, we bought everything we needed. At the same time, they kept within the amount, much less than the cost of the smallest rack from the IKEA store.

Let's see what we could do for this amount of white metal structures. Remember, I showed you at the beginning of the article:

Each vertical 192 cm high costs 400 rubles. We need three of them for a rack width of 187 cm. We no longer have 1200 rubles.

Next, you need brackets on which the shelves will be hung. Suitable for us 58-centimeter ones cost 200 rubles per pair. In order to make a rack of the same configuration as we get, you will need 5 pairs of brackets with a total cost of 1000 rubles.

In total, we would get a check for 7900 rubles. not counting the fasteners to hang it all on the wall.

It is important to take into account one more point. Some walls in apartments and country houses made in such a way that heavy weights cannot be hung on them. Will collapse. And certainly at night, frightening to death all the household members. Our rack will stand on the floor. I think this is his big plus.

We start to make a rack with our own hands

The first thing to do upon arrival home is to bring the length of the lining into line with the length of the future product. In my case, the rack had to stand from wall to wall, therefore, a small extra piece had to be sawn off from each of the 15 planks:

Best suited for this. In his absence, you can use the usual hacksaw for wood. Of course, with it you take longer, but you will become stronger and more resilient, perhaps you will lose excess weight through increased physical activity.

Of course, you can paint each piece of wood separately, turning it and carefully painting over all sides, including the ends. But with such an "individual approach" the work can, to put it mildly, drag on. So I suggest doing the following:

Put several pieces of wood in a row at once (lining or verticals with horizontals) and paint them as if you were painting a solid surface. You will see, the speed of work will increase significantly. When one surface is processed, you can turn the pieces of wood over and paint them on the other side, then on the third, and so on.

After that, it is necessary to dry the impregnated parts properly. It is best to do this outside. Unfortunately, impregnation is a rather fragrant thing. And the smell is not so pleasant. For example, wood varnish is also not sugar, but it does not cause such disgust.

Therefore, if possible, it is better to dry the pieces of wood in the yard or on the balcony:

It is important that the products, when dried, come into contact with other objects as little as possible. For example, it is undesirable to lay them flat on the asphalt. Moreover, you should not put them on top of each other - then you will not tear them apart, and they will dry for a long time.

For example, I put the verticals on an ordinary trough. Dried up perfectly. And fast enough. After four hours, you can take them with your hands and start assembling the rack. But for greater certainty it is better to wait a little longer. On the can of impregnation, the time for complete drying is written. For me it was 24 hours.

The main thing is that during this time it does not rain :)

When the impregnation dries, we begin the final assembly of the product.

Immediately we need to decide at what height we will have shelves. I proceeded from the fact that under the lowest of them it was possible to put 4 winter tires for a car. You have to decide for yourself what level each regiment will be at. By the way, you can easily make not three, like mine, but four shelves. This will require more material, but such a rack will be more spacious if you do not have too large things.

At the selected levels, we fix the corners:

You need to make four such "flyers". Only in the extreme of them can you immediately screw the second horizontals. For the middle ones, we will do this when the planks of the bottom shelf are put in place and fixed. At first, our design will look terrible. You may be visited by the thought that in vain you got involved in this whole story. It was necessary not to be miserly, but to go and buy a normal ready-made rack.

Indeed, such a view with vertical sticks constantly striving to fall will drive anyone into depression:

Yeah. It's time to break all this misunderstanding, and the one who knocked you out on an adventure, that is, me, is branded with shame and called names in every possible way in the comments.

Your will. But I would suggest that you keep working. Moreover, we have already done the most important and difficult. There are empty spaces left.

By the way, do you know why we did not attach all the horizontal beams at once? It would look quite logical, and the structure would be much stronger, and not shake like jelly.

But I would like to see how you put the planks into place, forming the bottom shelf. I remind you that they have a "wall to wall" length. So if you decide to apply engineering ingenuity and have already screwed the upper horizontals - unscrew it. You can attach them in place only after you get something similar to the design in the picture above.

The next step is to attach the boards of the first shelf to the horizontals. I remind you that this is done with ordinary nails:

As a result, we should get this:

Look, something's starting to emerge, right? And you wanted to break. It's good that I, I hope, managed to persuade you to wait with the defeat and continue the assembly.

I pay special attention to the stands under the legs of the rack. I made them from laminate scraps. They not only protect the floor from damage, but also serve as a leveling tool if the evenness of the floor is in some doubt.

Putting where one, and where two boards, we can give our product a more or less vertical position. Of course, it would be much cooler to use furniture legs with adjustable height. But they are not cheap, and we need as many as 8 of them. So personally I used laminate trimmings.

Next, our task will be to "create" the second shelf. For this we screw to advance installed corners horizontal bars and lay lining boards on them. At the same time, you can immediately fasten the upper horizontals. Ideally it should look like this:

Alas, in practice, not always everything goes as smoothly as you want. Ideally, the lining boards should lie on all four horizontal bars. In other words, all these bars should be in the same plane. For example, like this:

I did it, but for some reason one horizontal line turned out to be lower than necessary. Look, the boards do not reach her and hang in the air:

I don't know how it happened. But, I thought that if it happened to me, it could very well happen to you. Let's see how to get out of this situation.

There are two approaches. On the one hand, you can put a strip of the same under the planks. I had a lot of scraps left, so I just had to cut a plank of the right size and slip it under the shelf.

But I decided to go the other way. This path is good if you miss the measurement by a significant distance. For example, half a centimeter or more. In this case, you just need to unscrew the horizontal and screw it "higher". It is advisable not to make a new hole directly above (under) the old one - if you overdo it, the vertical bar can crack.

It is better to screw the horizontal with a slight shift in any direction:

After all the planks of the second shelf lie horizontally as they should, you can fasten them with carnations.

Well, and further, as I hope, everything is already clear. The final touch will be the installation of the third shelf. I think it is not necessary to paint the whole process in detail. The only thing that can be said is that there may not be five, but six boards on the top shelf. She got wider. One extra plank will add strength to the entire shelf.

Let's look at the result of our work:

There are two more horizontals in this picture as my particular shelving will continue along the right wall. If you also want to make an L- or even a U-shaped rack of wood, then you will need additional materials. Which and how much, I think, you will decide for yourself by analogy with what has already been done.

Well, here we are with you and finished our fruitful and multi-useful activity. As a result, we have a finished wooden rack, made by hand. Perhaps for some this will be the first experience of creating furniture from scratch. If everything turned out more or less smoothly, then it is quite possible to be proud of the result and even outline new projects. For example, you can buy furniture panels and make a simple wardrobe, then a whole furniture wall, a kitchen set ...

I hope I managed to give you step by step instructions, starting from the choice of materials to a certain logical conclusion. In my humble opinion, following step by step, almost any person, regardless of gender and age (except for very very babies) can do something similar.

Impregnation and varnish for wood. Are they needed?

In the end, we just have to find out if it was not in vain that we spent time and money impregnating our wooden parts. Unfortunately, the result of the experiment will be ready only after a while.

Bottom line: I took 8 small pine pieces of the same type, scraps from the lining. I did not paint the first two with anything (B / O - without processing), I just left it as it is. The second pair was covered only with impregnation (P). The third - only varnish (L). The fourth - first by impregnation, then by varnish (P + L).

It turned out two sets of prototypes. The first one is lucky: I will put it somewhere at home in the interior:

I will put the second one outside in the rain, snow and sun.

The rack allows you to conveniently place various things, using the free space as rationally as possible. It can be installed in the garage, on the balcony, in the pantry, personal library, office and other rooms. Understanding how to make a rack with your own hands is not difficult at all. This does not require expensive materials and hard-to-reach tools. The work is done very quickly, and the result will delight you with its quality for many years.

Types of self-tapping screws for the manufacture of racks.

Choice of design and dimensions

Before you make a rack, you need to choose the most suitable design and determine the required dimensions. Cantilever shelving is perfect for pantry and kitchen. Many open and very comfortable shelves provide maximum visibility. The necessary items will be very easy to get and put back. For a garage or balcony, you can make a shelving unit from an inexpensive metal profile.

If you want to get an original addition to the interior, try to make a rack of a rotating design. It can be a small desktop model or a full-fledged rotating cabinet.

Before you start doing, you need to choose the right sizes. If you do all the work yourself, then the shelves are best made from MDF or chipboard. Plywood will work too. Use boards 18-20 cm thick. The material left over from the previous ones will do. construction works. If the budget allows and there is a machine for cutting, it is best to make a rack from durable natural wood.

Choose the width of the shelves, taking into account what you will store on them.

Figure 1. Shelving drawing.

There is no universal solution here. To store jars and various books, it will be enough to make a rack with shelves 25-40 cm wide. If you make shelves for various tools, consider their dimensions.

The appropriate length of the shelves is also determined taking into account what exactly they will be stored on. If you are going to make a rack for storing various figurines, toys and other souvenirs, then the shelves can be more than one and a half meters long. In the same case, if various thick and heavy books are stored on its shelves, it is recommended to reduce their length to 80-100 cm, otherwise they will sag.

Fasteners are also selected taking into account the loads. A light and simple decorative rack can be assembled using self-tapping screws. If the structure is attached to concrete wall, use self-tapping screws with a length of 89 mm or more. If the wall is brick, fasteners with a length of 52 mm will suffice. Hooks and anchors may be needed to assemble and secure garage shelving and bookcases. The final choice depends on how much the rack with the items stored in it will weigh. You can make a rack, focusing on the following drawing (Fig. 1). If necessary, change the number and size of shelves to suit your needs.

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Step by step assembly instructions

This design looks like this - Fig. 2. In order to make a rack, you will need the following materials and tools:

rail 183x3.8x1.9 cm - 10 pieces, for the manufacture of crossbars and planks;
rail 20.3x3.8x1.9 cm - 3 pieces, for racks;
timber 39x8.9x3.8 cm for support;
shelves - 18.3x30.5x1.9 cm;
screws;
dowels;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
drill.

First you need to prepare the markup. Draw a line on the wall. It should be 183 cm long and pass at a height of 39 cm from the floor. Draw 4 more similar lines above it in 41 cm increments.

If the walls in the room are finished with plasterboard, you will need to find a standing profile. Will be attached to it finished construction. The profile can be found using a magnet. Mark the intersections of the wall profile and future shelves. Cut 5 crossbars and 5 planks.

Figure 2. Schematic diagram of a shelving unit on a metal base.

Attach each plank in its intended location to the middle post you found under the drywall. Make holes at the intersection of the planks and racks. Fasten the planks to the uprights through these holes. Attach the 4 remaining mounting strips in the same way.

Cut out the support and 3 posts. For support, use a beam measuring 39x10x5 cm. In the future, it will be dismantled. In order to carry out the cantilever installation of shelves, it is necessary to make a simple calculation. You can calculate the length of the slanting rail, due to which the overhanging edge of the shelf will be held, using the following formula: a² \u003d b² + c². In this case, a is the length of the rail, b is the width of the shelf, c is the height between the individual shelves. In this example, the length of the slat is 51.1 cm. You can see this in the following fig. 3.

Attach the rail to the support post and the crossbar that holds the outer edge of the shelf. Mount at an angle of 45°. Use self-tapping screws to connect. To make the connection stronger, grease the parts with glue.

Secure the shelf with self-tapping screws of suitable length and glue. In the event that you use a board, you need to prepare holes of a slightly smaller diameter, otherwise the canvas may split. Do the same for all remaining shelves.

You can attach ready-made consoles in the form of triangles cut from the board to the racks. Also, the fastening can be made so that the shelf fits freely into the resulting triangular hole.

Everything that is well put together is never lost and quickly found. To this folk wisdom, one can add that proper storage things saves space and decorates the interior.

All these arguments are an excellent reason to make a homemade rack and give a decisive battle to home chaos and disorder. Its design is so simple that it will not become a stumbling block for a beginner. A couple of vertical frame-racks with crossbars, shelves made of boards, plywood or chipboard - these are all the elements of a standard shelving system.

Since there are many places for installing shelving (in the house, basement, veranda, garage), many options for their designs have been developed.

In our review, we will consider the most interesting of them and give practical advice about how to quickly and cost-effectively produce such a structure.

Original shelving options

Anyone who believes that the rack is a rough frame with shelves is deeply mistaken. Indeed, for the basement and garage, you can not really fantasize. Strength, durability and functionality - this is the main slogan for these premises.

For a home interior, on the contrary, I want to do something special and non-trivial. Therefore, do-it-yourself craftsmen spare no time and effort to capture our imagination. Pair oak boards and a few glass bottles- that's all you need to create an original design.

Despite the simplicity, the strength of such a rack is quite high. You can store not only books on it, but also use it to display a collection of wines.

Anyone who has dealt with high shelf structures knows that without a good ladder it is impossible to get to their upper tier. And why not use the shelves as steps - a resourceful person thought and created just such an original system.

The classic frame shelving rests on the floor, and to install the rope shelving, you only need two hooks in the wall. Of course, it will not be possible to store heavy cans with conservation on it, but it is perfect for books, photographs and souvenirs.

You can make a rack with your own hands so that others appreciate your creative nature using steel water pipes and fittings. This design looks perfect in an interior designed in an industrial style. In addition, it is quite appropriate in an ordinary apartment.

pay attention to original way shelf installation. They are mounted on racks according to the principle of a children's "pyramid" tier by tier.

This rack does not have rear support legs. High rigidity steel pipe, reinforced with tees, allows you to abandon them. This design can be placed anywhere: in the apartment, on the veranda, in the attic or cellar.

The algorithm for manufacturing such a rack consists of the following operations:

We cut a bar for racks and crossbars according to the dimensions of the drawing.
Having laid the racks on a flat horizontal surface, we connect them with the crossbars (we use a hammer and nails or a screwdriver and self-tapping screws).
We fix the resulting support frames to the walls of the room through metal plates.
We cut the shelves from the OSB board.
We mount the shelves in the frame and fix them with self-tapping screws.

You can see the easiest option for assembling the sidewalls of the rack in photo No. 8. We note right away that the nail connection is not the most reliable, since it does not hold wood as firmly as self-tapping screws or confirmations.

Photo No. 9 A small wooden rack-rack, consisting of two sidewalls

More aesthetically pleasing is the shelving frame, in which the crossbars are flush with the uprights, as in wiring diagram № 3.

If the step of the support frames is small (50-60 cm), then you can do without installing a longitudinal bar. It will be fully replaced by an OSB board with a thickness of 18-20 mm. At a small span, it has enough rigidity to withstand a lot of weight without deflection.

If you bought a thin slab or three-layer plywood, then you will have to install a longitudinal bar on each tier of the rack. He will tie the frames and will serve as a side support for the shelves. To increase the spatial rigidity of such a structure, several diagonal screeds from bars can be fixed on its back wall.

If you have a welding machine, then making a rack from a metal profile will be easier than a wooden one. If there is no welding, then you will have to take an electric drill, metal drills, stock up on bolts and nuts.

The sequence of manufacturing a metal rack from a corner or a profile pipe is not fundamentally different from installation wooden frame. Here, too, frames are first made, which are then leveled in vertical plane and fixed to the wall. When using a thick chipboard or board 30-40 mm thick for shelves, the rack can not be connected with a longitudinal profile.

In this case, the shelves rest directly on the crossbars of the frames and are attached to them with metal screws. If the structure will carry a serious load, then the longitudinal stiffening belt under the shelves will not be superfluous.

Note that working with profile pipe more convenient and easier than with a corner. Keep this in mind when buying metal. The optimal cross-sectional size for a square tubular profile in terms of price and strength is 25x25 mm, wall 2 mm. It is better to buy a corner equal to the size of 40x40 mm.

A lightweight version of the design can be made using metal support brackets. They are fastened with dowels to the wall, and on top they put shelves made of boards or OSB boards.

This solution allows you to save space under the rack for the installation of large items.

As often happens, there are more and more things in the house, and there are no places to store them. Then we begin to come up with the most unthinkable options - we put things in boxes, bags and hide them away from our eyes. But in fact, all you need to get a rack.

The same principle applies in greenhouses - seedlings and seedlings need proper care and quick access, which can be provided by making a rack of bars yourself.

A greenhouse is needed so that even in the cold season it is possible to grow vegetables and fruits, herbs and even flowers. The temperature in the greenhouse can be the same as in the subtropics, which means that even pineapples can be grown with proper care!

But mostly simple vegetables and fruits are grown in greenhouses, which are found in markets and store shelves at any time of the year. On the shelves it is convenient to grow greens, flowers, some types of seedlings and seedlings.

Let us consider in more detail several types of greenhouse activities:

Greenery(see) - the cost of a bunch of greenery, of course, is not too high, however, this type of product is in demand daily, throughout the year.

Growing greenery in a greenhouse, you should know that it is not picky about the conditions, it will be enough to maintain the temperature up to 19 C O and additionally highlight up to 14 hours a day. The period of time for which the greens fully ripen is quite short, which means that, if the right conditions are maintained, about 10 crops can be harvested per year.

Another plus is that it is profitable to grow greens on racks, because they can be planted tightly to each other and placed in several tiers, which will save space and grow the product in large quantities.

Flowers(see) - garden or indoor plants can be grown in a greenhouse. Garden plants are less demanding, but after cutting they have a very short shelf life.

It is also worth thinking in advance about who will sell your products - you will do it yourself or sell it to resellers. Several types of plants can be placed on different racks at once, for example, one rack is completely reserved for violets, and the other for flower seedlings.

Seedlings and seedlings it is very convenient to place on racks, but you need to know that such racks should have high sides for picking.

We build a rack in the greenhouse

In order to make a rack of timber with your own hands, you do not need a lot of knowledge and vast experience with furniture. It will be enough to have everything at hand necessary materials and tools, and follow the algorithm of actions.

Such a rack allows you to save money, because the price of materials that are needed for self-manufacturing, significantly lower than ready-made factory furniture.

We will need:

wooden beam square section not less than 30 by 30 mm.
Wooden slats to further strengthen the structure.
Chipboard boards, plywood, natural wood, in general, everything from which shelves can be made.
Screwdriver, screws and dowels.
Roulette, pencil.
Water level (level).
Wood saw or electric jigsaw for more convenience.

Important! When choosing a material, do not forget that the rack will be in the greenhouse, under the influence of light, water and temperature, which means that it must be strong and durable. Alternatively, a protective coating can be applied to wooden parts.

In this article, you have the opportunity to get acquainted with several photos of how preparation for work should look like.

When creating a drawing, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure and a simple pencil in order to choose the dimensions of the future shelving that are suitable for your greenhouse. The width of the shelves can vary within different limits, but since plants will stand on these shelves, 60-70 cm will be enough.

The length should be selected depending on how many seedlings you plan to place on one shelf. If its weight is too large, then the long shelves will sag, so that this does not happen, stick to the recommended length of 80-90 cm.

You can calculate the height of the proposed structure by measuring the work surfaces in the house, this is done so that the row on which you plan to transplant, move or fertilize the plants matches your height.

Usually the bottom shelf is made at such a height that you can put things necessary in the greenhouse under it, such as fertilizers, gloves and other garden tools. If you plan to put flowers on the rack, then it is better to make low sides, this will greatly simplify the plants.

After all the wishes are taken into account, and the parameters are compared, a drawing is made. Usually a schematic drawing indicating all dimensions is sufficient.

Let's go to the main process

Further instructions are not particularly difficult. Let's start with the installation - we make the supporting support from wooden beam, this will ensure that the base of the rack will be strong.

In order to fix the beams with the base boards, 3 cm self-tapping screws are best suited. During the installation process, remember that the bearing supports should only be placed vertically.

When the base of the rack is finally ready, they proceed to the installation of the box. The material prepared for this purpose is attached to the bars at the bottom, top and sides. The result is a box, but without a back wall.

After the box is ready, proceed to the installation of shelves. For accuracy and convenience, small marks should be made on the sides of the box, they will indicate the places where the shelves will be located. Shelves are also fixed with self-tapping screws, but you can choose, for example, metal corners.

From above, transverse bars are attached to them, on which the shelves will be supported. The heaviest load usually falls on the shelves located in the middle, so it may be necessary to further strengthen it.

Advice! It is worth noting that the self-tapping screws that are used to connect the shelf and the beam must be taken 5-6 mm more than the thickness of the shelf.

Since the rack will be installed in the greenhouse, it does not require additional finishing, except that for longer operation it is necessary to cover the structure with protective agents. In general, the attached video in this article shows the process of creating a rack from a bar, which is done in several stages.

How to place shelving in a greenhouse

There must be aisles between the racks, it can be one or more. The width of the passage depends on whether you will use additional equipment, such as a wheelbarrow.

For normal walking, 50 cm is enough, and for a wheelbarrow - about 60 cm. Also, when arranging shelving, it is worth considering the irrigation system, which needs access to plants, and the placement of additional lighting.

Usually, for such needs, one shelf is allocated on the rack, where no more than 3-4 plants should be placed. It is additionally protected with glass from all sides, and they make sure that the lighting in the quarantine zone is not too strong. If there are no negative changes in new plants, then after a few weeks they can be transplanted to the main racks.

And in conclusion

As you can see, the process of making wood shelving is quite simple, and even a person who has never encountered such work before can do it.

The main thing is to remember a few simple rules:

Choose only thoroughly dried wood with minimal moisture.
knots on wooden blocks, the weakest points, therefore, the smaller they are, the stronger and more reliable the structure will be.
Use additional impregnations for wood. They will protect the tree from the appearance of mold and bugs.
Each plank must be fixed with at least two self-tapping screws.. This is the only way to get a different design that will not stagger.

That's basically all, you can buy all the necessary materials, prepare the tool and go ahead to the high rank of a home master.

Whatever technological innovations and design solutions offered us by modern furniture manufacturers, shelving has been one of the most best solutions for . And we are talking not only about convenience, but also about the aesthetic component, because they can fit into the interior of any apartment, house or even a garage. If you want to create an unusual and practical DIY shelving for flowers or books, then you do not need to have any carpentry skills. It is enough to prepare the necessary materials, as well as be patient.

Experienced furniture makers know firsthand that in fact any cabinet is a rack with a back wall and doors. Therefore, having mastered the simple technology of assembling flower racks, you can easily make a full-fledged wardrobe of any size.

How to determine the dimensions

To create a rack for flowers, chipboard, MDF or plywood up to 20 mm thick are most often used. The boards that were used for are also quite suitable. Incidentally, natural wooden planks will be much better compared to plywood or chipboard.

The width of the shelves must be selected based on what you plan to store on them. So, for books or flowers, shelves with a width of 250–300 mm are quite suitable. But for car tires or, for example, a tool, the width should be larger - up to 700 mm.

As for the length of future shelves, here the choice also depends on what you plan to store on them. For light items (for example, for souvenirs or soft toys), a wooden shelf up to 1500 mm long is suitable. But to store volumes of books, you will have to reduce the length of the shelf to 80 cm. Otherwise, the shelf may bend under the weight of things. If you plan to place the future shelving in the garage to place heavy objects on it, then it is better to reinforce the shelves with metal corners or other amplifiers.

The set of necessary fasteners is determined from the size of the future rack, as well as from the expected load on the shelves. So, self-tapping screws for concrete up to 90 mm long are suitable for lightweight structures. For brickwork it is best to use dowels with self-tapping screws up to 52 mm long. But for a large and heavy shelving in the garage, it is necessary to additionally strengthen the structure with anchors or hooks.

How to make a rack with your own hands

Screwdriver (ideally - a screwdriver);
Dowels, self-tapping screws (length depends on the type of wall);
The shelves themselves suitable material described above, we will give an example of creating a wooden rack with shelves measuring 19x305x183 mm);
Beam-support with a size of 38x89x390 mm;
Reiki 19x38x1830 mm in the amount of 10 pieces - necessary for creating crossbars and slats;
Reiki 19x38x203 mm - necessary for creating racks.

Rack with shelves

Creating a rack with your own hands begins with the installation of strips, to which fasteners will be made. It starts with markings on the wall. You need to draw five horizontal lines 183 cm long on the wall. The lowest one should be at a height of 39 cm from the floor level. The distance between the rest should be 41 cm. This will be a sketch of the location of future flower shelves.

In the event that your garage or room is made of drywall, then you need to locate the main profile in order to fasten the entire structure to it. Use a special search engine or a simple magnet for this. Then mark the wall where the profile will intersect with the shelves.

Now cut the planks and crossbars of the required size. There will be five of them in total. Now each bar must be fixed in the place where you have already marked (they are mounted on the drywall profile). To fix the crossbars in those places where the planks pass, drill holes and fix the structure with self-tapping screws.

When the installation of the “skeleton” of the rack is completed, proceed to the collection of shelves. First, cut out three racks and prepare a support beam (later it can be removed). Now you need to calculate the length of the rail that will connect the edge of the shelf to the wall. This can be done using the formula a2 \u003d b2 + c2, where a is the length of the crossbar itself, b and c are the height and width of the shelf itself. If you plan to make a rack of the same dimensions as in our example, then the rail will be 511 mm long.

Fasten the resulting rail at the point where the crossbar and the rack intersect. Use self-tapping screws for this. To increase the strength of the structure, professionals recommend additional processing of all parts with glue.

Now it remains to fix the shelf. To do this, you will also need screws and glue. Please note that when using boards, it is recommended to drill holes of a smaller diameter than self-tapping screws. This will allow you to avoid splitting the material or deforming it. Repeat the procedure for everyone, and your design will be ready.

There are other types of shelving. For example, a rack with side walls. Such designs resemble bookcases. They differ from ordinary racks in greater strength and the ability to store heavier items. Also, designers often use such pieces of furniture to separate zones or in large rooms.

For a wood rack, you will have to additionally prepare a roller or brush, a grinder and a spatula - this is necessary for additional painting work.

Shelving with side walls is attached to the base (use boards up to 50 mm thick), which must also be attached to the wall. Since the walls in our houses are far from always even, measurements should be taken at the bottom, at the top, and also in the middle of the wall.

After installing the base, proceed to assemble the rack. To do this, prepare the side walls, install shelves in them, and then mount the structure on the base. As a result, you will get a closet without doors.

Conventional cantilever shelving is suitable for a garage, kitchen or pantry as it provides open access to the items stored there. with side walls will be a great solution for a living room or nursery. It can store books, souvenirs, toys or boxes with small things.

As you can see, making a rack with your own hands is not so difficult. It is enough to prepare all the necessary materials. If you already have experience in creating such structures, share the comments below this article.