Insulation of the front door of the house. What and how to insulate the front door. Insulation of wooden door structures

With the advent of cold weather, residents of private houses clearly understand that it would be nice to warm up. A door of any strength and reliability will not be able to prevent drafts and heat loss. It is necessary to insulate in the house or in the country not only metal entrance doors, but also wooden ones.

Insulated doors have many advantages:

Insulation reduces heat loss, which provides a comfortable microclimate and saves the family budget;
More reliable sound insulation is created;
Insulation works allow you to design doors using rare design solutions.

Window and door structures need to be sealed. Checking the tightness of these structures is quite simple. If you light a match and bring it to the locks and awnings of the door, then the fire should not sway. If this is not the case, then there is no tightness and it is required to insulate old doors or order new ones that will have insulation from the manufacturer.

You need to understand that insulation involves not only working with the canvas. It is important and necessary to seal all the gaps around door frame. The entire perimeter of the door frame must be carefully insulated.

Owners of private houses should think about warming the front doors in advance, even before the onset of cold weather. It is the front doors that will save you from the cold, since they usually let the cold inside the house.

A variety of materials will allow you to insulate metal entrance doors:

Plain cotton;
Mineral wool;
Styrofoam or its derivatives;
Foaming resins, which are sold in cylinders.

Plain cotton is very cheap for all its environmental cleanliness. But they use ordinary cotton wool in modern conditions rarely. Ordinary cotton wool is a combustible material. In addition, it absorbs moisture too well.

Mineral wool is considered environmentally friendly. It cannot burn, but can only smolder. This will prevent the spread of flame in the event of a fire. Very much appreciated properties of the material to serve good warmth- and soundproofing. But mineral wool also has its drawbacks, it easily absorbs moisture. This circumstance requires the creation of an additional layer of waterproofing in the case of using mineral wool.

Polyfoam and its derivatives have excellent insulating properties. These materials do not conduct heat well, do not transmit sound and moisture. With the low cost of polystyrene in its varieties, it can be quite a worthy option for insulation. But over the years, the foam ages, which causes its destruction. The owner of a private house needs to be prepared for this. Styrofoam insulation will have to be changed periodically.

Foaming resins are essentially quick setting foams. Usually, this insulation is advisable to use for processing non-separable external structures.

The specifics of the insulation of a metal door

The entrance steel door is insulated in accordance with the insulation used. If we are talking about an external collapsible structure, then fix the layer of insulating substance using liquid nails. From above, the door leaf is upholstered with materials for sheathing.

Mounting foam or foaming material can be inserted inside the entrance steel door through any holes, it can be a keyhole or a peephole, as you like. A non-separable metal door should be insulated from the outside, this is not difficult to do.

Insulation of wooden door structures

For wooden insulation entrance groups in a country house or in a private house apply the following materials:

Izolon;
Foam rubber;
Cotton wool;
Silicone filler.

Determination of insulation for the entrance wooden door determined by climatic conditions, the budget for insulation door structures and other specific circumstances.

So, isolon is known for its high rates in terms of thermal insulation. Foam rubber is much cheaper than isolon, but is relatively short-lived and requires an early replacement after a couple of years of operation.

Vata is very economical, as a material for thermal insulation, but its hygroscopicity contributes to the development of wool a large number microorganisms. Silicone fillers are resistant to external influences and temperature changes, but they transmit sound very well.

Work on the insulation of entrance wooden doors

The wooden structure cannot be disassembled. This requires insulation directly on the surface of the sash. First of all, the canvas is frozen. If 5 cm are added to the obtained values, then this will be the size of the insulation. When creating decor from leatherette or other similar material, 25 cm are added to the height and width of the sash, which determines the size of the sheathing that will be upholstered in the door.

canvas will need to be removed from the hinges and clean off the dirt that has accumulated on it. It is better to treat wooden surfaces with available antiseptics.

It is necessary to lay the insulation on the canvas, it is covered with a decorative material. The insulation is ready, the door can be returned to its proper place.

Insulation of structures along the perimeter of openings

Even if the doors are securely insulated, heat loss in a private house is inevitable. This is due to the fact that heat also escapes to the street through the cracks created by the door frame and sashes.

For this reason external entrance systems need not only insulation of the canvas, it is necessary to insulate more carefully. It is also necessary to line door frames with insulation.

Special types of rubber or polyurethane tape materials can be used to insulate door frames. They are self-adhesive, but some types can be fixed using liquid nails.

If the canvas fits snugly enough to the frame, then the insulation in the house will be maximum. Air penetrates through possible gaps that are formed when the strapping does not fit completely with the opening. This problem must be solved for sure.

A more radical remedy than rubber or polyurethane seals will be leatherette ribbon folded in half. It is nailed to the frame with nails.

Improves sealing wooden structures a roller that is stuffed on all sides of the box. The bolster can be created by a seal wrapped in upholstery. So far, nothing has been invented for nailing a roller better than furniture nails. It is especially convenient to make a sealing roller when severe cold weather sets in, into which the doors cannot be removed.

Work on the insulation of the door structure

To insulate the door frame, you need attach the insulation to the box and close the door. This will make sure that the canvas adjoins the frame. If the work is done correctly, cold air will not be able to pass into the room, and warm air will not pass outside the house.

Insulation of external doors in the house is very important issue. It will provide comfort and coziness in the premises. This means that all work on the insulation of doors must be carried out with full responsibility. Door insulation will always be relevant. The payback of all costs for these operations occurs in less than a season, but much is determined by the size of the premises. To spend the winter in good conditions, doors need to be insulated in a timely manner.

through poorly insulated front door about the same amount of heat leaves as through a hole with a diameter of 20 cm. There are several ways to eliminate heat loss, as well as reduce the penetration of odors and noise. The simplest ones are cheap and accessible to everyone. It is more difficult to seriously insulate the door in the apartment and the adjacent section of the wall with your own hands, but it is also possible with clear instructions.

Features of insulation of the front door in the apartment

Methods and materials are selected depending on the causes of poor thermal insulation, characteristics and design features of the opening. Building regulations must be taken into account to avoid exceeding the maximum permitted weight. The wooden door won't hold individual options, for example, installing metal stiffeners for attaching thick insulation. In metal, they are initially. The main differences in the methods of insulation are due to a specific reason.

Worn seals

The service life of thin gaskets between the door frame and the sash is short. Especially if they are made of material such as batting or felt found in old doors. Rubber and plastic wear out too. How to determine:

visually inspect the seals, they may have worn out or come off;
if you run your hand around the perimeter of the door, it can be felt through.

In this case, it is recommended to completely replace the gaskets with new ones. They come in the form of self-adhesive tape or are attached to nails, screws, glue. The mortise option is suitable for wooden doors - when a small groove is cut around the perimeter and rubber seals are inserted there. This method makes it easy to change them later.

Replacing self-adhesive door seals

Weakly insulated sash

Doors in old houses are lined, as a rule, with a layer of foam rubber. Such insulation wears out quickly from changes in temperature and humidity. Metal shutters are currently insulated with modern resistant materials that do not lose their thermal insulation properties for decades. However, they also have a lifespan. It is easy to determine the moment when it is time to insulate the sash - the surface of the door becomes icy at low temperatures.

To insulate door leaf with your own hands, you need to remove the coating, attach a new thermal insulation and finish the surface again. It is recommended to repair a wooden door on both sides. At this point, it is advisable to also replace the worn upholstery. The design of metal doors usually allows you to independently remove only the inner panel - made of wood or MDF.

General scheme of a metal door leaf

Gaps between wall and box

The gaps around the doorway are carefully insulated mounting foam. Its service life depends on climatic conditions, the density of the composition. On average, from 5 to 15 years, then the foam begins to crumble. If no other insulation was used when installing the door, then it starts to blow around the perimeter. From the draft with high-quality seals and a sufficiently warm sash, you can guess that it is necessary to repair the opening.

Options for insulating the front door in an apartment with such a drawback:

remove the layer of plaster around the box inside and out, remove the old foam, foam again and plaster;
cut grooves around the door from the inside and, in addition to foaming, lay a heater with a long service life - foam plastic, mineral wool;
nail rollers to the wooden sash from the outside - strips of leatherette with tubular polyethylene foam inside, which will cover a few centimeters of the wall.

Due to the settling of the house or under its own weight, the iron door and frame may warp. This is easy to determine by opening the sash at 45 ° - a skewed one will spontaneously close or open, and not stand still. In this case, it is recommended to tighten or replace door hinges. If this does not help, then the box is uneven. Then the gaps around it are insulated by the methods indicated above.

The repaired wall around the door is often decorated with extensions.

How to choose material for door insulation

Seals for entrance doors are made of rubber, foam rubber, synthetic felt, plastic. Mostly in the form of a flexible cord, which is sold by the meter. In order to insulate with your own hands, it is recommended to buy a self-adhesive version. Foam rubber and felt are easy to use, the sash with such a gasket closes without difficulty. But their resistance to the external environment and wear resistance are much less than other materials.

The most popular are soft rectangular or tubular rubber seals, as they have a service life of at least 5-7 years, they protect not only from heat loss, but also from odors, smoke, and noise. The thermoplastic profile is the most durable and resistant to temperature changes - single, double or triple.

Different profile rubber door seals

It is important not to make a mistake with the choice of filler for insulating the sash and the space around the frame, since it is difficult to change it often, unlike seals. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better material keeps warm. For a wooden door, the thinnest and lightest fillers are suitable, for a metal one - any. Soft, flexible insulation is easier to work with, it covers the surface with a margin, it compresses as much as necessary. Solid ones are easy to cut, but it will be necessary to select the thickness and maintain the dimensions of individual elements with high accuracy.

Overview of insulation used for the front door:

insulating material	Heat transfer water content, W/m K	pros	Minuses	Life time
Foam rubber (polyurethane foam) from 80 rubles/sheet	0,025-0,035	- Thin - Light — Convenient installation	- Absorbs moisture - Low wear resistance - Operation from -15 ° C - Flammability	up to 10 years
Mineral wool from 50 rubles/plate	0,036-0,055	— Soundproofing - fireproof	— Water absorption	up to 50 years
Foamed polyethylene foil from 60 rubles/m2	0,039	- Thin - Can be self-adhesive — Noise isolation – Waterproofing - Ease of installation	- Sold in rolls, rarely cut into running meters	over 50 years
Styrofoam (foamed polystyrene foam) from 40 rubles/m2	0,033-0,05	- Light — Moisture resistant	- Freezes at the joints – Width from 5 cm — combustible	up to 20 years
Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam) from 100 r/plate	0,03	— Moisture resistant — Soundproofing – Waterproofing	– Medium fire safety	up to 50 years

Important! Glass wool is not environmentally friendly enough, fine glass dust can get into the air and lungs, since the skin is not hermetically sealed everywhere.

Roll and sheet insulation

As the lining of the front door, eco-leather, wood panels or MDF are used - most often the material that was on it earlier. But you can completely change the design by choosing a different coating. List of components and tools that will be needed during the reconstruction:

fasteners - staples, nails, screws or glue;
appliances - a construction stapler, an angle grinder for cutting grooves;
solutions - mounting foam, acetone for surface treatment before gluing parts.

In addition, finishing materials will be required for the walls around the box, plastic plugs to close the nail heads and technical holes.

The procedure for insulating the door with your own hands

The methods and complexity of restoration depend on the type of door. It is necessary to calculate your strength before repairing a heavy iron structure - the weight of European standard models with thick double steel and natural wood paneling reaches 100 kg. Chinese single-sheet and upholstered wooden - from 25 to 50 kg.

Elements of a modern steel door

Let's consider how the entrance metal door is completely insulated in an ordinary apartment, including the canvas, gaskets and the adjacent surface:

A groove is cut in the wall from the inside around the entire perimeter with a depth and width of 2–4 cm.
Remove the old foam around the box, fill the cracks with fresh.
After drying, the foam is cut off, strips of the selected thermal insulation are inserted into the recess.
They plaster the wall, decorate with plastic or wooden extensions, wallpaper, paint.
Dismantle the inner panel of the sash, take out the old insulation.
The new insulation is cut to the size of the grid of stiffeners, the hard one is simply inserted, the soft one is sometimes put on glue to reduce precipitation.
The sheathing panel is fixed back, preferably on new self-tapping screws, fittings are hung.
Strips of sealant are glued onto the frame and canvas.

If you want to insulate the perimeter, then first work with the wall, then with the door surface. This order helps to avoid damage to the already restored sash.

Important! Joints of solid sheet insulation must be sealed with mounting foam to avoid the formation of cold corridors in their place.

The stiffening grid is often welded from the outer panel iron door

Installation of insulation on a wooden door will be different. Only soft thermal insulation is installed on the structure covered with leatherette:

The cover is removed from both sides.
Insulation sheets are nailed to the wooden shield from the outside and from the inside, the distance between the nails is 10 - 15 cm.
The insulation is cut with a margin of 5 - 10 cm, they are nailed tightly, the excess is cut off.
They cut out new upholstery - with a slight overlap, with holes for the eye, handles, locks - nailed, nail heads are covered with decorative elements.
The procedure for insulating the adjacent wall is the same as for metal door.
Gaskets are glued, nailed with a stapler, nails or inserted into the mortise.

Two layers of insulation for a wooden sash

Models with stiffening ribs inside, lined with MDF, allow the use of solid thermal insulation. A leaf door without internal filling - both wooden and metal - is insulated from the outside. To do this, a frame of wooden slats. A layer of thin soft insulation is glued inside, covered with eco-leather on top. In this case, the thickness of the new frame should not greatly exceed the thickness of the door leaf.

High-quality insulation will give a completely measurable result: no draft, the door leaf is at the temperature of the outer walls or warmer, a sheet of paper inserted between the frame and the door should be pulled out with little effort.

Warmth and comfort in the house are the main tasks facing every owner of their own living space. Particular attention is paid to the front door, as it is in direct contact with the street. And in the cold season, heat is able to leave the room through the doorway. To avoid unpleasant consequences, the front door should be insulated. You can do this work yourself. But before insulating a wooden door in a private house, you should prepare everything you need for this.

How to insulate the front door

The guarantee of future comfort depends on the chosen material, for the sake of which the insulation was started. And if a few decades ago only felt, foam rubber and dermantin were available, today the choice is much greater. And here is what the manufacturers offer:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
Styrofoam.

Mineral wool, like polystyrene, is most often taken as the basis for insulation for metal door panels.. Both materials perfectly retain heat indoors and are not affected by microorganisms. Mineral wool is also worth noting because no rodents will spoil this insulation.

Mineral wool absorbs moisture

But these materials have some restrictions on their use.

Styrofoam belongs to the category of combustible insulation, so its use for working with wood is possible only when processed with special compounds. And the “disease” of mineral wool is subsidence. Over time, the skin may be at the bottom of the canvas and stop retaining heat. In addition, mineral wool accumulates moisture inside itself, which adds weight to the entire structure. Therefore, such material should not be used for warming a bath or sauna.

The use of isolon is more justified to achieve the goal of retaining heat. This material is made on the basis of foamed polyethylene, which gives it a minimum thermal conductivity. The advantages of the material include the fact that a canvas with a thickness of 10 - 15 mm will be enough for work. This allows you to maintain an attractive appearance of the door leaf, without thickening it and not making it bulky.

Izolon has low thermal conductivity

Expanded polystyrene has excellent performance. The door insulated in this way will become a reliable and safe barrier between warm home and cold street. Among the advantages of expanded polystyrene, its incombustibility should be highlighted. When a flame occurs, it will gradually disappear on the surface of this material.

For inexpensive insulation, you can always use foam rubber.. The material is comfortable in all respects and for a beginner home master will be a real find. Foam rubber will forgive the mistakes made and allow them to be painlessly corrected.

Tool

It is impossible to get the job done without the right set of tools. To create insulated wooden entrance doors you will need:

Roulette and pencil;
Stationery knife;
Hacksaw;
Hammer;
Screwdriver;
Smooth rail or metal meter;
Mounter or nail puller;
Construction stapler.

It is necessary to prepare tools and sheathing material

If necessary, this set can be expanded, but for most operations it will be enough. It should be noted that the hacksaw is easily replaced electric jigsaw. This tool allows you to complete the work with the same quality, but much faster. And if the house does not have a screwdriver, then you can take a simple drill. The main thing is that it has a reverse, which will allow, if necessary, to unscrew any self-tapping screw or screw.

In addition to the tool, it is necessary to prepare the sheathing material. For most door panels, it will be enough to use a leatherette that has an attractive appearance. This material has good performance and wear resistance, so the canvas does not need to be repaired for a long time.

And if you like to do everything with your own hands, then we recommend you instructions on how to

Preparatory work

To perform the insulation of the door leaf, you should go step by step, stage by stage. This approach allows you to achieve good results and eliminate errors. And first you have to do the preparatory work.

In order for nothing to interfere with work, it is required to remove the door leaf. This is done with a rig or a nail puller. It is enough to pry the canvas from below and it will rise from the hinges. If the swivel axle is a little rusty, then it must be lubricated with machine oil. After that, with small translational movements, you can stir up the hinge and remove the door leaf.

When the door is outside the box, it is necessary to remove all existing elements from it. Hinges, handles, peephole and lock are carefully unscrewed and removed to the side. If the door is not made only of wood, then it is necessary to remove the inner lining sheet in order to gain access to the inner space of the door leaf.

Cutting and laying insulation

The next step in warming the door leaf will be laying material that will make it warmer.. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a clerical knife. Thermal insulation is cut along the length and width of the canvas so that there is no empty space left. If the door is a frame with voids, then they need to be filled with insulation.

The insulation is tightly inserted between the bars

All pieces must be tightly inserted between the bars to prevent the formation of cold bridges. At the same time, the material should not bubble, which will indicate an excessively large stock. In this case, it is worth cutting off the excess material a little. Once everything is adjusted, you need to fix the insulation with staples. Quickly and efficiently, this allows you to make a construction stapler.

New door trim

The next step will be the upholstery of the prepared wooden doors.. For this purpose, you can use soft materials such as leather substitute or leatherette. The upholstery fabric is cut off with a margin of length and width of at least 10 cm. This is necessary for bending the material, which should have some thickening around the entire perimeter of the door leaf.

As finishing material you can use dermantin

It is best to fasten dermantin on special nails. They have a large decorative cap, which gives the skin a more attractive look. You can also run copper wire over the nails. If you pull it, you get an additional mount for both insulation and exterior decoration.

analogue soft materials stands for MDF. This type of finish is used for frame canvases. In this case, each panel is attached to the kleimer, and nailed along the perimeter.

Installation of hinges and fittings

When the canvas gets a new look, it is necessary to install the removed fittings in place. The hinges must take their nests exactly as they were installed before work began. The seat for the lock must be carefully cut out so that there is no damage to the upholstery of the door leaf around it.

If necessary, insulation can be combined with.

The insulated door is mounted back

Mounting the seal

Installing frost-resistant insulation on the door leaf is only half the battle to eliminate the penetration of cold air into the living space. Even with the door closed, there is a small gap between it and the box, through which the cold will penetrate. Eliminating drafts is the next task for the home master.

To make this work, you need to choose optimal type sealant. Today, manufacturers can offer the following types of this material:

foam seals;
Silicone seals;
Rubber seals.

The first type of seal allows you to quickly and inexpensively solve the problem of drafts. It is ideal for doorway such a structure as a summer house, where there is no great intensity of opening and closing doors.

Foam seal - inexpensive, but also short-lived

The use of a silicone door seal will allow you to get rid of a draft for a longer time than a foam analog can do. The shape of the product guarantees a tight pressing of the canvas to the box, which will not allow air masses to move inside the room.

The best option is a rubber seal. Due to its characteristics, it allows you to get a warm opening for a long time even with the most intensive use. In addition, the variety of forms of this product makes it possible to install it on all types of door blocks.

With intensive use of doors, a rubber seal is used.

Having chosen the desired version of the seal, it remains only to install it in place. There are two main mounting options:

With adhesive strip.
With a harpoon in the groove.

The fastest way to install a new seal on the door is when using self-adhesive products. But this type cannot please with durability, so many experts recommend a harpoon mount in a groove.

It will be quite difficult to choose a small groove in a quarter without disassembling the boxes. Therefore, it is allowed to carefully nail the sealant with small carnations. Fastening must be done in the very corner of the quarter. This will allow the leaf to take its position in the door block without difficulty and provide reliable protection against drafts.

A high-quality front door reliably protects an apartment or house from drafts, heat loss, extraneous odors and sounds. Modern new designs of entrance doors made of metal or wood are immediately insulated and reinforced during the manufacturing process. But what to do if there is no desire or means to replace the old front door, which does not have high sound and heat saving properties?

It's simple - the door can be visually ennobled and insulated with high quality without large financial losses.

Reason #1

If the front door is old, then it is quite possible that the insulation located between the canvases is damaged. For example, mineral wool high humidity starts to rot.

Reason #2

Gaps and gaps between the door leaf and the frame. This problem can be caused by the frame being skewed due to improper installation, high humidity, or frequent use of the door. Also, cracks appear due to deformation of the web, shift or damage to hinged fittings.

Reason #3

Gaps between the door frame and the opening. If the doorway is larger than the box, then all gaps are sealed with mounting foam. If the foam is not applied in a continuous layer, the design may have low heat-saving properties.

Restoration and insulation of the door are carried out in several stages.

Fastening the seal around the entire perimeter of the door frame.
Sealing gaps and cracks between the frame and the door leaf.
Checking hinged and locking fittings.
Upholstery and insulation of the door leaf.
Sealing holes between the box and the opening.

Required Materials

insulation

Seals

This type of material is located around the entire perimeter of the door leaf and, when the door is closed, seals the structure with high quality.

Seals are divided into several types according to the location of the sealing ribs: single, double and triple. The more additional layers the material has, the better it protects against cold and noise.

Seals can be attached to the ends of the web with self-tapping screws or a self-adhesive base. The first type of fastening is better and more reliable, designed for high loads.

Upholstery

In order for the restored door to become outwardly aesthetic, it is recommended to upholster it with a material that does not allow moisture and air to pass through. For these purposes, eco-leather, leatherette, genuine leather are suitable.

In order for the upholstery to hold firmly to the door leaf, special nails are required. You can also complement the design of the door with a special wire that is attached between the nails and creates a pattern on the front surface of the leaf.

Wooden lining, MDF board (8 mm) with one-sided lamination. These materials can be used for interior decoration doors.

Tools

Angle grinder with a cutter for cutting a groove on the door leaf.
Screwdriver.
Hammer.
Stapler with a set of staples.
Roulette.
Scissors.
Mounting foam.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, it is required to determine exactly what materials will be used to restore the door. If the inner side of the door leaf is made of MDF, then you need to purchase or order a sheet of material of the right size in advance.

If the door leaf has settled under its own weight, then it is advisable to twist the hinges with new self-tapping screws or completely replace the hinged fittings.

It is advisable to carefully check the perimeter between the box and the wall opening for sealing, if necessary, remove the old foam and foam the cracks in a new way.

If the door is severely deformed due to moisture, then it is possible to process the ends with a planer so that when opening and closing the canvas freely enters the door frame.

During restoration, you can replace the door lock, peephole, chain,

Mounting the seal

Step 1

Determine the size of the gap between the box and the canvas. If the gap around the entire perimeter is more than a few millimeters, then the groove for the seal does not need to be cut.

Step 2

Cut the sealant into the desired size fragments. If the tape is self-adhesive, then you need to glue it around the entire perimeter of the door frame, closer to the outside of the door leaf.

Step 3

If the seal is made of silicone, then you need to attach it to the ends with a stapler. This fastening is much stronger and more durable than sealing with self-adhesive material.

Step 4

If the gaps between the canvas and the box are not too large, but a draft is felt, you can use a grinder to cut a groove 1-2 mm deep and 3-4 mm wide. A seal is attached to this groove; a two-layer or three-layer material can be used.

Insulation and restoration of the door leaf

These devices are designed to seal the gaps between the door and the jambs.

Step 1. Leatherette is cut into 4 strips, 10 cm wide. The length of the strips is equal to the width and height of the door leaf + a margin of 5 cm on each side.

Step 2 A strip of leatherette is applied to the edge of the door with the wrong side. Every 10-15 cm, the material is attached to the canvas with a stapler or upholstery nails.

Step 3 Strips are attached around the entire perimeter of the door. Near the hinges, the material must be cut in a special way: the roller should not interfere with the closing and opening of the door. To prevent the roller from bulging, you can cut off excess material around the edges. The final installation of the roller is carried out after the insulation of the door leaf.

Foamed polyethylene roller, which must be inserted around the entire perimeter of the door into a strip of leatherette

Door leaf insulation

You can upholster the door with leatherette both from the inside and from the outside. Also, the inner canvas can be decorated with a laminated MDF board. The color of the material can be chosen as desired. The canvas is fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter. It is also important to pre-cut holes for the handle, peephole or internal lock, if any, on the door.

Most often, restoration is carried out using eco-leather or leatherette upholstery. It is not difficult, if desired, this process can be done independently.

Step 1. Mounting on the insulation sheet. It is important that the size of the insulation on all sides be 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the door leaf. Most often, ordinary foam rubber is used for these purposes, having a thickness of 2-3 cm. With the help of a stapler, the foam rubber is aimed at the door leaf at small intervals.

Step 2 Excess material is trimmed around the perimeter of the door. The stock is needed so that there are no problems with fixing the insulation: it is easier to cut off the extra edges than to accurately shoot a sheet of material cut to size.

Step 3 Additionally, it is recommended to attach a batting over the foam rubber. This material will improve the heat and sound insulation of the door structure.

Step 4 Leatherette is cut with a margin: 4 cm on each side. It is necessary to nail the material to the canvas with insulation from the middle. This fastening method minimizes skew and wrinkling of the material.

Step 6 Fastening leatherette along the edges of the canvas. It is necessary to pull the fabric strongly to avoid the appearance of bumps.

Step 7 Leatherette needs to be carefully fixed around the entire perimeter of the door. The gap between the location of the nails is 5-6 cm. It is advisable to drive in the nails at the same level and at an equal distance.

Step 8 Final fastening of the roller. The protruding ends of the fabric are folded into a tube and nailed. It is desirable that the roller be the same size on all sides of the door. This will improve her appearance.

Step 9 Handle attachment. In the place where the fittings are located, you need to make a hole in the leatherette, and then attach the handle using self-tapping screws.

Step 10 Ennobling the appearance of the door. To prevent the canvas from looking too simple, you can decorate it with nails, wire or fishing line. To do this, markings are applied to leatherette: mesh, squares or others. geometric figures. Nails are driven into the corners of the figures, serving as fasteners for wire or fishing line. The wire is stretched between the nails, visually dividing the canvas into fragments. It is important to observe the geometry of the drawing.

Video - Insulation of the front wooden door

insulate metal structure in several ways: by installing an internal or external insulation.

Internal insulation

Doors in which metal sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws are best insulated with foam, isofix, polystyrene foam. You can also purchase special acoustic panels that will reduce the penetration of noise from outside.

Stage 1. At internal insulation the lining of the canvas located inside the apartment is removed. Opening the outer panel is impractical and dangerous; the design may lose its former strength and reliability.

Stage 2. After the casing is removed, you need to unscrew the screws holding the metal sheet. The old insulation located between the stiffeners must be removed. The new material must be cut into fragments of the required size and placed between the partitions of the frame.

Stage 3. The metal sheet is attached to the old place. It is advisable to use new screws. Door upholstery can be restored by replacing it with a new one or using old material. It all depends on the condition and type of canvas.

Video - Insulation of a metal door from the inside

With this method, the insulation is attached on top of the metal sheet, due to which the thickness of the door increases markedly.

Stage 1. Installation of a frame made of wooden blocks along the perimeter of the door from the inside. Beams with a thickness of 15-20 mm are screwed to the metal sheet using self-tapping screws. Also, with the help of beams, internal stiffeners are formed, between which a heater is attached.

Stage 2. Installation of insulation sheets. The material is cut into pieces so that they fit exactly into the recesses between the stiffeners. The thickness of the insulation should not be greater than the thickness of the beams.

Stage 3. Door finishing. A canvas is cut out of eco-leather or leatherette, fastened on nails with wide caps to the bars. The edges of the canvas should go to the ends of the beams so that the material completely covers the entire structure.

Also, instead of fabric, you can use a cut-to-size laminated MDF sheet.

It is not difficult to carry out self-insulation of the door, the main thing is to follow all stages of restoration work.

Winter is naturally associated with the cold, and now also with the need to spread large sums money for heating, the cost of which is systematically growing. To increase the temperature in the room and save on heating a house or apartment, property owners are trying to identify and eliminate sources of heat loss.

In most cases, thermal imaging of buildings shows that about a third of the heat from the room penetrates the outside through the so-called "warm contour", namely windows and entrance doors.

Do not think that installing double-glazed windows and replacing the door block automatically solves the problem of heat loss. And if the replacement of windows leads to a reduction in losses, because they are closed in winter, in the case of the door, the heat still leaves the room, so you need to learn how to insulate the front door in a private house with your own hands, and put the knowledge into practice.

Thermal insulation of entrance doors makes it possible:

reduce heat loss by getting rid of blowing and drafts;
reduce the level of noise penetrating into the apartment / house;
enhance the aesthetic component - door decor.

It is much easier to insulate the door in the apartment, because, as a rule, it goes to the entrance, where the temperature is warmer than the temperature outside. Insulating a door in a rural house is a more difficult task, i.e. it separates the heated room from the frosty air of the street and the wind. However, general rules and the direction of insulation for them will be the same. The difference will be in the choice of thermal insulation material and its thickness.

How to insulate the front door?

In a private house and apartment for insulation, different thermal insulation materials, since the construction market is replete with them. Among the most popular:

cardboard(paper honeycomb filler). Domestic manufacturers fill interior doors with corrugated cardboard to increase their soundproofing properties. No one is surprised by the insulation of a Chinese door with cardboard, because. this is the cheapest insulation;

furniture foam(thickness from 3 to 100 mm, price - 45-900 rubles / sq.m.). This is a material for door insulation, which was one of the first to be used for thermal insulation. Foam rubber is distinguished by low price, flexibility, the ability to keep its shape for a long time and restore it under short-term load, good soundproofing characteristics, ease of use;

Styrofoam(2560-3200 rubles/m3). It is he who is considered the most effective insulation for entrance doors. And door insulation with foam plastic is the most popular solution. Polyfoam is distinguished by low cost, excellent sound and heat insulation characteristics, ease of installation. However, it should be remembered that the foam supports combustion.

polystyrene foam(3500-5000 rubles/m3) has similar properties, but due to more high density allows you to perform door insulation more reliably. Expanded polystyrene is also distinguished by a higher price. In terms of structure, both materials are classified as rigid, and are used primarily for insulating a metal door;

polyurethane foam. The product is a novelty in the field of door insulation. In terms of its properties, polyurethane foam is comparable to polystyrene, but its use makes it possible to fill the entire space inside the door. The material is environmentally friendly, does not support combustion, but has a higher cost;

cotton wool. Door insulation with mineral wool is a modern analogue of foam rubber insulation. Due to the flexibility of this material, it can be used to insulate both metal and wooden doors. In this case, one should distinguish between mineral wool (Isover, price 70-75 rubles / sq.m.) and basalt wool (Rockwool, price 200-220 rubles / sq.m.). The second option is more rigid and environmentally friendly. In any case, when insulating the front door with wool, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier film. This is due to the fact that the hygroscopicity of cotton wool does not allow it to be used without additional protection. For the same reason, it is not recommended to insulate doors in a private house with cotton wool;

dermantin. This decorative material, its purpose is to close the insulation and give the door an aesthetic appearance. Therefore, door insulation with dermantin is carried out only together with heat-insulating material.

Ready set for door insulation

For those who do not want to waste time selecting and calculating the amount of materials, manufacturers offer to purchase a door insulation kit - a ready-made solution for entrance doors of various sizes.

Entrance door kit includes:

dermantin. By appearance looks like skin. Now such upholstery has lost its popularity, but remains one of the simple and cheap ways to insulate and decorate a door in a cottage;

foam rubber;

sealing rubber. To exclude blowing around the perimeter of the door frame;

nails with decorative caps.

The cost of the "Standard" set with foam rubber 5 mm thick is 490-520 rubles, the "Lux" set with foam rubber 10 mm is 1180-1230 rubles. There are also kits with padding polyester, they are slightly cheaper.

Thanks to this set, you can easily perform minor repairs and insulation of external doors.

As a rule, the price of the kit is higher than the cost of its individual components, so it is better to purchase the materials yourself.

How to insulate the front door in a private house and apartment

We will analyze the technology of insulation street door on their own in the context of directions. There are two sources of heat loss:

the door itself, i.e. due to the high thermal conductivity of the door leaf, heat loss occurs. Metal doors let in more heat, less wood doors;

door circuit. A significant part of the heat is "blown" out of the room by drafts, which appear due to the loose fit of the door to the door frame.

Consider how you can insulate the front doors with your own hands in order to reduce heat loss in both directions.

Direction 1 - Insulation of the door leaf

It should be understood that the methods of door insulation will be determined by the material from which the door leaf is made:

occurs by filling the cavity inside the door frame. To do this, you can use foam and cotton wool. Before starting work, the door must be opened, the cardboard filler removed (installed in almost all Chinese doors) and the void filled with a more suitable heat-insulating material.

When filled with foam, it is cut into pieces that are convenient for installation and glued to the inner surface of the door using liquid nails and a mounting gun. Free space is blown with mounting foam. In the case of cotton wool, it is first recommended to make a crate, in the cells of which cotton wool is placed. It is impossible to lay cotton wool without crates, because. it has a tendency to slip over time. Then the door is closed with any sheet material, for example, fiberboard, and decorated. Often, the insulation is covered with plastic panels or MDF panels.

Note. The thickness of the insulation for the front door must be equal to the thickness of the door leaf, otherwise the locks will have to be changed.

performed with flexible insulation. Since the insulation cannot be placed inside the door frame, you need to decide on which side to insulate the door, from the outside or from the inside. Here, the direction of opening of the door and the location of the hinges are taken into account. The main requirement is that the seal does not interfere with their functioning.

For insulation, heat-insulating material is laid on the door leaf, covered with a film (in the case of cotton wool), and the doors are upholstered with dermantine, which is fixed with decorative carnations.

Note. The use of reflective material, such as penofol, on the inside of the door will “return” heat into the room. After all, the reflectivity of penofol is 97%.

Direction 2 - Insulation of the front door opening

Only the insulation of the canvas will not reduce heat loss so much that we can talk about improving the energy efficiency of the warm circuit of the house.

The second direction, more productive and easy to implement, from which thermal insulation work usually begins, is the insulation of the door frame. In this direction, there are two ways of warming:

1. Insulation of the door frame of the front door

For these purposes, a sealant is used - polymer or foam rubber (less often) on an adhesive basis. It is better to give preference to polymer, because. its service life is longer, and the efficiency is higher. The foam adhesive tape will not last and the season will, at best, wear out within a year. The insulation process itself is simple and involves sticking a seal around the perimeter of the door leaf. The main thing is to pre-wipe and degrease the surface so that the sealant sticks better.

An important aspect on which the effectiveness of insulation depends is the correct selection of the thickness of the seal. A thin seal will not perform its function in full, and a thick one will create an additional load on the door hinges in the process of closing the doors, and will lead to their accelerated wear.

Plasticine will help solve this problem. It must be wrapped in cellophane and placed between the door frame and the canvas. Then close and open the door. The thickness of the resulting plasticine roller will correspond to the optimal thickness of the seal.

2. Insulation of the slopes of the front door

Errors in the installation of the door frame, the use of low-quality foam that “sagged” during the operation of the door, saving on foam and blowing it out intermittently - all this ultimately leads to the fact that the cold comes from a seemingly insulated door.

What to do if blowing from the front door?

To eliminate drafts, it is necessary to dismantle the slopes, fill the vacated space with foam, lay insulation (preferably soft) and restore the slope again. If it is difficult to do this kind of work, it is better to order a master, his services will not cost too much, and the appearance of the door will be presentable.

How to determine where the wind is blowing from?

You can check if the foam does not allow air to pass through if you bring the lighter to the mounting seam. If the flame fluctuates, measures must be taken to replace the foam.

Installing a double door as a way to insulate

A separate way to insulate a house can be the installation of a double door. The space between adjacent doors will become an air gap, which will ensure that cold air from the street does not penetrate directly into the living space. In conjunction with the insulation of openings and slopes, this approach makes it possible to get really high-quality insulated entrance doors.

Note. The ideal option in this case would be to install two doors on one door frame.

If the insulation does not help much, it's time to change the old doors. Good feedback o, which prevent the penetration of cold, leveling temperature differences between the room and the street.

Budget insulation of the front door - video instruction

Balcony door insulation

If the house or apartment has a balcony, then this is another door that faces the street (especially if the loggia or balcony is not glazed) and, accordingly, needs thermal insulation.

How to insulate a balcony door for the winter

Warming balcony door has its own specifics, which is associated with the presence of a window in it. If the door is made of wood, then the insulation is made by sticking a seal around the perimeter of the door leaf, insulating the slopes and sealing the glass seat. The insulation technology will be similar (we recommend that you familiarize yourself) with the insulation of wooden windows.

If you need insulation plastic door, in this case it is recommended to first check the tightness of the door and correct the fit by adjusting the fittings. The technology of insulation is also similar to thermal insulation. plastic windows. In the event that there are no violations in the operation of the fittings, the masters recommend using Swedish insulation technology. This is the most reliable way reduce heat loss through the balcony block.

Conclusion

As you can see, there are several directions for insulating a door in a private house. But only their complex use will allow you to get a really tangible effect.