Plaster drawings on the wall. Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall. Stages of self-creation of a painting using the technique of bas-relief

Rejecting conventional clichés, decorating your home in such a way that it is unique, adding a special twist to it is not easy fashion trend, but a completely justified and natural expression by a person of his own individuality. A truly exclusive decoration will be a bas-relief in the interior, and you can create it yourself.

Royal palace, castle, family estate influential family - this is where previously one could most often find bas-reliefs. This was caused by the complexity and high cost of creation. Gradually, the fashion for them came to naught, but now, with the advent of inexpensive and available materials, these decorative decorations are experiencing a rebirth, combining perfectly with the most diverse styles in the apartment.

Features of bas-reliefs

Several features of the bas-reliefs that distinguish them favorably against the background of other types of interior decorations:

This decorative element can be made from any material (papier-mâché, gypsum, decorative plaster, polystyrene, metal, etc.), which is sufficiently plastic or suitable for pouring into a mold.
Modern bas-reliefs are easy to perform and install, are lightweight and affordable, if they are made from natural materials(wood, stone), then at a considerable price they look really unique, extraordinary and exclusive.
The subject of the image is chosen based on the tastes and needs of the customer; it can be antique, semi-antique, neutral or emphasized modern.
In addition to visual appeal, such decorative elements will help to hide communications, defects, and uneven surfaces.

Bas-relief as an element of the interior

Bas-reliefs will help to dilute the dullness and monotony of the monochromatic surfaces of the walls and ceiling, especially when the addition of decorative elements or additional paints is undesirable.

Even the simplest bas-relief drawing will enliven the surrounding space if you can choose the right lighting.

A universal solution for all styles when decorating walls and ceilings is the branches and trunk of a tree or an abstract pattern that can fill the wall without overloading the space.

A bas-relief can be created in several ways:

by sculpting directly on the wall surface;
by making individual elements with subsequent fastening to the wall;
in the form of a volumetric picture made on a solid base (for example, on a gypsum fiber sheet).

New bas-reliefs

In 2014 Applico presented a novelty in the world of finishing materials. New bas-reliefs in the interior are flexible slabs of different sizes with colored or monochrome patterns applied to them. Their distinctive features:

the ability to mount on a surface of any shape;
excellent noise and thermal insulation properties;
flexibility of plates;
bio-, thermal and moisture resistance;
safety for humans and the environment.

Slabs are mounted on the walls, according to the numbering indicated on them, they are fixed with a special adhesive.

A photo of the new-bas-relief is presented below:

Bas-relief painting

As we already mentioned, the materials for creating bas-reliefs can be different. But beginners are advised to start with plaster mixed with plaster. Do not worry, even the simplest plaster molding will ennoble the room, giving it elegance and solemnity.

The easiest for self-creation a kind of volumetric decor element - a bas-relief picture. The advantages of such a product:

for this type of bas-relief, you do not need to prepare a wall;
there is no fear of failure: if the picture does not work out, you can postpone the work for a while or abandon the venture altogether, the decoration in the room will not be spoiled;
a bas-relief in the form of a picture at any time can be moved to another place, taken with you to a new place of residence.

Stages of self-creation of a painting using the technique of bas-relief

At the same stage, we determine the size of the future bas-relief and its location.

It should be understood that the larger the size of the image, the more space is needed to "read" it; on small stucco moldings, the decor will be correspondingly smaller, more detailed, and will require greater skill.

We prepare a sheet of gypsum board or gypsum plasterboard, draw on it a sketch of the future volumetric picture.
We knead the gypsum plaster and apply it with a palette knife - a special painting spatula - on the work surface. You can form parts with palette knives of various shapes, fingers, brushes. There may be several layers of material, the main thing is to wait until the previous one dries.
After drying, the surface of the bas-relief is sanded with fine sandpaper and primed.

If desired, the bas-relief can be painted, subjected to the procedure artificial aging, give it an antique look.

Before deciding to paint a barrelf, think carefully: beginners in most cases are disappointed with the results of this stage, since it requires special skills and knowledge. In addition, a white or only slightly tinted bas-relief in most cases looks much better than a product painted in different colors.

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco molding and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies allow to get around the technical difficulties of creating stucco molding at home for people who do not have an art education, but are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig. below, it is quite within the power of a patient and attentive lover.

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - DIY stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often collectively referred to as acrylic renders. How to gain the volume of the bas-relief with building putty compounds, you can find out from the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use a basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Plaster and plaster mix mixed dry and sealed with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The density of the mixture is selected in accordance with the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is performed using the technique of low relief (top left in the figure) or high, with protruding figures (top right). High relief is also called high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low relief in that the figures are sculpted like a round sculpture (see below). A low bas-relief looks good in any lighting, except for a very dim one, and a high-relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

In living quarters, which are most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed technique of bas-relief (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to sculpt the Klimt Tree bas-relief, see eg. master class video below:

Video: master class bas-relief "Klimt Tree"

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become familiar with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand further and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: at one time the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition "The Tree of Life". Her style is so unique that the expression "Klimt tree" became winged.

The reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (in the lower center in the upper figure) is no longer stucco molding, but stone carving (the contours are cut inward), which is technically much more complicated. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs a bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special kind of bas-relief - shadow, at the bottom right, where the whole pattern is formed by shadows from small and smallest protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. With a change in the direction and angle of incidence of light, the pattern changes, up to a change in facial expression during the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: protrusions and depressions become clogged, and from cleaning they lose their shape. The drawing fades, blurred, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in order of increasing technical complexity:

Plastering free, i.e. models not initially fixed to the reference surface, not removable;
Plastering non-removable models on the reference surface. These methods are especially good for beginners because allow you to receive acc. high and low relief, without risking the need to redo all the work again in case of failure;
Reverse casting from plaster on a removable model. The method is somewhat more laborious, but also suitable for beginners, since you can pore over the model as much as you like until it is brought to the ideal. In addition, in one mold made according to the model (mold, mold) at home, you can cast up to 20-30 identical products;
Artistic gypsum stucco molding in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. Requires solid skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels on the entire wall, with outlining the corners, approaching the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief using methods 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief - gypsum plasterboard, GKL. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or finished compositions are displayed on separate sheets or their pieces of the desired shape (see fig.), And attached to the aligned wall.

The heads of the fasteners and the joints of the fragments are putty with the base composition, then plaster of paris and rubbed under the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece spoiled by inexperience can be remade without touching the rest. And the bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; it is impossible to fasten the prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, partitions made of PHB, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the supporting base should be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tool. Not very expensive, but you cannot count on the success of work without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything immediately falls out of it, if you turn it inside out, and the dried residues fly off in the same way. The faster it is formed, the more durable and beautiful the bas-relief will be, i.e. the further the working solution is from the beginning of setting. The kneading ball minimizes wasted time for shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from the ball, because there are no corners inside. For the same reason, the kneading is more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Next, you will need spatulas for sculpting - palette knives. Set of 6 (item 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For the formation of bunches of grapes, scales, etc. we also need convex-concave spatulas. Sets with such are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) for a set of 48 items, so lovers instead often use spoons of different sizes (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, it is simply impossible to bring out the low relief with spoons, the bend of the handle interferes. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons of aluminum and other ductile metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle near the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, a concave spatula is obtained.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To get a concave spatula, their handles are heated with a lighter at the very scoop, twisted and bent when heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters clean it off old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flare, and create a small texture. A palette knife is perfectly replaced by a wide boot knife.

Next necessary tool- a confectionery syringe with attachments (pos. 3 and 4) and, possibly, a medical syringe for 20 ml without a needle. It is highly desirable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (pos. 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are far from being as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, how they decorate cakes, everyone has seen), you need to hold it with 2 hands; hold the instrument at the tip with the left.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes of different sizes and the same number of round, cheapest, from bovine ear bristles. There is no point in buying expensive squirrels and kolinsky for a bas-relief "for the sake of steepness", they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Brush the texture (see below) and plaster small areas bas-relief.

Instrument handling and care

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before dialing the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working body are a guarantee of spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and dipped in water in parts; palette knives with brushes are also put there. When the tool turns off, the remnants of working materials are thoroughly washed off from it. clean water... By the way, after working on the bas-relief, a properly maintained confectionery syringe is also suitable for its intended use. The entire tool must be kept absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technology

The creation of a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on sheets of plasterboard, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

The base surface is cleaned of the old finish, leveled with an accuracy of at least 2 mm / m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for a prefabricated bas-relief does not require alignment;
A background texture is induced along the base coating: with a foam or fleecy roller, "splashing" with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is toned, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, invoicing and toning is not required;
The relief is formed in one way or another (from the above and described below). During the formation of the relief, toning is possible similar to that for the base;
If necessary, the relief is painted over on top after complete drying. It is convenient to do surface staining with special paints for gypsum stucco molding - they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Sharper color transitions will give acrylic paints;
The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in hardware stores). Paints on dried plaster stucco molding fade, as on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tint stucco?

It is clear from the video above that you need to form a stucco bas-relief in layers. For toning the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, layers are applied thin, 1-2 mm each. Usually, layers of kneading the density of low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. Mix for each layer is tinted with a color (pigment) for gypsum; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment of an ever-decreasing concentration is taken, and for green leaves, it is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the previously set, but still wet. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush, or then wiped with a zero-grade sandpaper or, rough on large areas, with a metal brush. For more information on toning plaster stucco, see the next video.

Video: how to cover the bas-relief on the wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create tall floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using a plate or bowl turned upside down and greased with lanolin as a model, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The stock solution described above is not used. It is strong, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, toning is not applied due to excessive consumption of material; finished elements are painted.

For gypsum, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural gypsum is prepared. A model (artificial flower, napkin) is dipped in it and placed on a board covered with plastic wrap. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the mortar sets, it is dipped again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm.

Flowers for drying are placed each time in the same position. Thus, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glued with acrylic plaster of sour cream density or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco shade for a chandelier (see fig.) Without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place, and plastering with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco molding is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

The main catch here is the material of the model. Usually they are made from polystyrene, foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but all the same, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown indelible spots begin to appear on the stucco molding. Therefore, models for plastering in place are best sculpted from salt dough, the same one from which Christmas tree decorations are made with their own hands. For plaster, stone and other mineral building materials salty dough glued with acrylic glue or any assembly adhesive. Stucco molding according to non-removable models of salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting ...

This is the most common way to create stucco molding with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional look and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic plaster backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in Fig., Pos. a-e. Model 1 made of plaster, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product, which it is desirable to repeat / replicate, is placed on a flat panel 2. Now, in order to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the panel is covered with a film.

Then the model is coated with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical petroleum jelly, the model may stick to the mold. Plaster and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is coated several times, allowing lanolin to be absorbed for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 thicknesses of dough, approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffening ribs 5. The seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame made of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 cm thick and a little more, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After the time of the set with a cement-sand mortar 3/4 of the strength (7-20 days, depending on the external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, the defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. The flare is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, the chamfer is approx. 0.7 mm. In a non-chamfered mold, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. Casting mass is filled in the mold layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyelets with a mustache (top right in the figure) are inserted into it, for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyelets can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the lugs are already firmly seated in the penultimate, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to try the firmness of the seating of the lugs by swaying!

Currently, for editions up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way, they do not pour from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model, prepared as in the previous one. case, poured silicone layer by layer, in layers of 1-2 mm, until the thickness of the mold is reached approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, a silicone mold allows you to obtain castings with shallow recesses, because it is elastic and stretchable.

Also, small rounded plaster parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see Fig.), Acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish. In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. Silicone is poured into the flask all at once; the flask and the model are not coated with anything. When the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of plaster.

... and not vice versa

In gypsum mini-casting, a removable model is already used; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again. A silicone mold can also be made for gypsum casting using an investment model, then it will be possible to get up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without depressions. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a backboard covered with foil. Then they put the flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is doused with silicone in layers, as in the previous one. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is filled. The model is melted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

Molding

Modeling the bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for the evening department of an art university or courses. It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with plaster the time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it begins to set. Technically, gypsum molding is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

Flat

The technique of flat molding from plaster is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are as follows. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fatty sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming at the same time a relief, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previously set, but still wet. Fourth, as the layers grow, they switch to a smaller instrument. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thick and coarse ones. In this case, from the teeth of the leaf to its petiole.

About branches

The branches on the bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, with a medical one. The thickness of the branches is regulated by pressing the piston harder and weaker (item 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is applied with a brush, and the fractures are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with a base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is gypsum, as a non-removable model in place.

Strongly twisting branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of the density of sour cream, laying it out on a board covered with a film along the contour, and after drying, gluing it to the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry out tightly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, part of the strands is removed or, conversely, 3-5 twine branches are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left. If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plasterboard in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for a bas-relief from a gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted batches. The desired color is obtained by grouting with zero sandpaper.

Sharp ribs

In the pictures with the bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp edges. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the big ones are formed by the folded fingers of both palms folded back. The height and thickness of the ribs are changed by smoothly moving / moving apart the fingers (palms) in motion along the formation of the rib. The fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

Round

The basis of the round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to an object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the backbone are. The skeleton in a circular shape works the same way as the skeleton of a living creature. Information about skeletons can be gleaned from any course in the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is not a medical discipline, but an art education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to treat, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and severities of science.

The figure is approx. from 30-40 cm is molded on the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For smaller figures, the frame is made simplified (pos. 2), but observing the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so difficult: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of it will be the dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

The frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is advisable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

The base frame (pos. 5a) is made three-dimensional approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for sculpting, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). The auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together by winding with a thin copper wire, or even better - by soldering.
In a liquid, like defatted kefir, gypsum solution, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plastering of limb fractures (see, for example, the film "The Diamond Arm"), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5c. It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage starts to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the gypsum began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
After the plaster frame is completely dry, it is stuck layer by layer with a base solution (tinting can be used), adjusted in shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plaster of paris to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural gypsum.

Note: for the frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. convenient to use thin and fine metal mesh... Another option is the branches of the main branches, pasted over with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for homemade high reliefs are molded separately; in place is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface, respectively. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.

How to attach bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be rather heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its support area is more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails of 80-120 mm, driven into plastic dowels, are best for this. The attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel must sit in the wall at least 50-60 mm deep. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten. The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fastening pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Super bas relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. For this you only need a piece of GCR with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flare to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall will give your home an original and unique look. Plain and plain walls quickly get bored, and original and beautifully executed bas-reliefs at correct location will delight the hosts for a long time and astonish the guests.

People have always strived to make their home beautiful, decorating their homes with carved wood or stone elements, original plaster and other materials. But bas-reliefs have always been considered the most expensive, sophisticated and high-status decorative elements. They look exquisite and creative and are in harmony with almost any design.

A bas-relief is a three-dimensional decorative element protruding above the wall, with images of people, animals, mythical creatures, birds, plants, flowers, fruits or flowers.

The bas-relief is appropriate in different rooms. In the living room, using this volumetric element, you can make it unique modern interior or to give the dwelling the appearance of an old palace or castle. A large volumetric panel above the bed or on the entire wall looks great in the bedroom. In the kitchen, the panel is appropriate in the recreation area or in kitchen apron... If the area allows, then the bas-reliefs can be placed in the hallway and in the bathroom.

The bas-relief goes well with many finishing materials: wood, plaster, leather, marble and mirrors.

The bas-relief can be made the main compositional center of the room. But the dwelling will be transformed even with the addition of several stucco elements on the walls.

What are the bas-reliefs on the wall?

It all depends on design solution... Here are some options:

Simple bas-reliefs on the wall in the form of baguettes for paintings of different sizes look rich and respectable.

The bas-reliefs in the form of edging at the top of the wall look luxurious, but not provocative. Such bas-reliefs will complement a monophonic wall on which photographs or paintings are placed, shelves with collections or souvenirs.

Wall murals or paintings with plant designs look especially good with backlighting. The maximum decorative effect can be achieved with the correct illumination of the volumetric image. Such bas-reliefs fit perfectly into the space.

The bas-reliefs, which depict trees, mountains, lakes and any other corners of nature, are distinguished by their originality.

Subject volumetric bas-reliefs are the most difficult to perform. They can occupy the entire wall or be located in one corner.

Benefits of a bas-relief

A three-dimensional wall panel always attracts attention at first sight. In terms of aesthetics, no type of decoration can be compared with a bas-relief.

Benefits of a bas-relief:

originality;
showiness;
volume, which allows you to hide the unevenness of the wall;
creating smooth transitions between different functional areas;
an excellent solution for decorating fireplaces, arches and openings.

The volumetric image can be performed directly on the wall, or assembled from slabs with a previously prepared relief.

If a figured element protrudes above the surface by less than half the volume, it is called a bas-relief. If higher, then this is a high relief.

Bas-relief as an element of the interior

Wall panel- a one-stop solution for all styles. For example, a voluminous tree with branches, a climbing vine or an abstract pattern is used when you need to fill an empty wall without overloading the space. The use of bas-reliefs in apartments helps to visually change the room and hide surface imperfections.

The bas-relief can be made in the form of an ornament, decorate the walls with small scattered fragments, or make it a central composition. Volumetric compositions can be used to decorate a niche or any recess in the wall. Additional lighting will add accents and give the interior a sense of completeness.

In the kitchen, bas-reliefs with still lifes, with images of pets, kitchen utensils, fruits and vegetables, are appropriate.

In the children's room wall panel should be light and airy so that a child learns the world in bright colors from childhood. Bas-reliefs should be decorated with angels, fairies, magic birds, fairy castles, butterflies, flowers and cartoon characters. Such compositions fill the nursery with charm and fairy tale.

The bas-reliefs in the living room go well with wrought iron and a stone. Therefore, if a fireplace is installed in the living room, then the bas-relief above it will become a real decoration of the room.

Bas-relief in the living room above the fireplace

Flowers, angels, tender, amorous scenes from medieval paintings look organically on the bas-reliefs in the bedroom. The room is filled with peace and tranquility.

A bas-relief can be created in several ways:

sculpting a bas-relief directly on the surface of the wall;
by making individual elements with subsequent fastening to the surface;
creating a three-dimensional picture on a solid base.

A novelty in the field of creating a bas-relief is a new-bas-relief. They are flexible boards with an already applied pattern.

Distinctive features of the new-bas-reliefs:

installation is possible on any surface;
high rates noise and heat insulation;
plates are flexible, do not break;
increased thermal and moisture resistance;
safe for humans and the environment.
easy installation, using a special adhesive, according to the numbering.

Bas-relief painting

Even the simplest three-dimensional painting will ennoble the room, make it solemn and elegant.

You can try your hand by starting with the creation of a bas-relief picture.

Why exactly from the picture? The advantages of such a voluminous panel:

for the bas-relief of the picture, no preparation of the wall is required;
the decoration in the room will not be spoiled even if the painting has failed: you can postpone and redo the work later;
bas-relief - the picture can always be moved to another place, donated or taken to a new apartment.

Required tools and materials

To create a bas-relief with your own hands, you need to purchase materials and tools for work in construction and art stores.

List of devices and materials for work:

pencil;
sketch of the drawing;
pen or marker;
stencils;
palette knives;
brushes;
polyethylene film;
trowel;
container for mixing the mixture;
putty knife;
scrapers;
sandpaper;
abrasive sponges with different hardness;
colored colors or paint;
gypsum, plaster putty, clay or alabaster;
primer;
masking tape;
gloves.

Palette knives are special spatulas of different sizes, with the help of which volumetric images are created.

Materials for creating bas-reliefs

To create a three-dimensional panel on the wall, use materials to your liking. This could be:

gypsum;
alabaster;
putty;
clay;
gypsum or decorative plaster.

Gypsum has been the most demanded for many years. building material... This natural and environmentally friendly material - the best way to create bas-reliefs. With it you can create decors of simple complex configuration. Acrylic paints will protect bas-reliefs from ultraviolet rays and from precipitation, if they are located outside. And the use of modern varnishes, primers and adhesives will make your masterpieces durable and durable.

Several years ago, they began to make bas-reliefs from polyurethane. Plastic foamed using a special technology has become very popular and in demand due to its advantages:

it is practically eternal;
does not fade;
not afraid of moisture;
does not absorb odors;
resistant to temperature extremes;
It does not require special care;
ecologically pure.

Polyurethane bas-reliefs are an excellent solution for installation in kitchens, bathrooms, saunas and swimming pools.

How to start work on creating a bas-relief?

The first step is to decide on the interior of the room.
The second step is the choice of the room and surface on which you plan to place the volumetric composition.
The third step is preparing the sketch.

When choosing a sketch, it is necessary to take into account its size and wall area: the picture should harmoniously and naturally fit into the space. Lighting is also taken into account: the perception of the picture depends on it. In case of insufficient lighting, the bas-relief will need to be additionally highlighted.

When choosing a sketch, if you are a beginner, you should not choose too complex and voluminous figures, plot paintings with many actors... For the first bas-reliefs, it is better to opt for simple shapes in the form of flowers, fruits or leaves. Although, despite the lack of experience, we do not recommend choosing too primitive sketches: they will be lost on the surface and will not look interesting.

The most clear drawing of the sketch will help you in your future work.

The fourth step is to film the sketch.

The outline of the image must be transferred to the paper. Put a transparent film on top and circle it with a helium pen or pencil. The main thing is that the contour is not erased ahead of time.

The fifth step is to prepare the base.

The surface must be carefully prepared before applying the bas-relief. For this, the wall is treated with putty.

The solution must be mixed well. Gypsum plaster hardens quickly, so we do not recommend preparing a lot of mixture at once.

You can make the work easier if you use a screwdriver or a mixer attachment for a drill to prepare the solution. In order not to splatter the walls, we advise you to add a little water to the dry mixture before mixing and stir with a spatula. Then stir the mixture with a power tool, let stand for five minutes and stir again.

The sixth step is to paint on the wall.

After complete drying, put a film stencil on the prepared surface and trace the outline of the drawing with a hard pencil. The embossed image should remain on the surface.

The drawing can be applied directly to the wall. If you are not a very experienced artist, then you can transfer the image to the wall using the old and proven method: cell by cell.

The seventh step is the formation of the pattern.

This is the longest and most important stage, especially for a person who has no experience in modeling from plasticine or clay. But nothing is impossible. Following our advice, anyone, even without experience, can create a real masterpiece.

Before you start making the relief, it is necessary to designate the volumetric places of the bas-relief and fix the screws in the thickest places.

Gradually begin to add volume to the objects drawn in the picture. This work is carried out in several stages: the putty is applied to individual areas, layer by layer.

When applying the first layer, Special attention devote to embossed areas. There is no need to try to make the relief even, the ribbing will help to firmly bind the second layer of plaster to the first.

Then, using a palette knife, you need to cut through the image so that the details begin to emerge.

We prepare the material for modeling in advance. Beginners are advised to work with gypsum plaster or with plaster. In addition to the fact that these materials are plastic, they still set quickly enough and keep their shape well.

The eighth step is painting the bas-relief.

Before you start painting, you need to perform a few more steps:

completely dry the sculpted bas-relief;
clean concave and curved elements, sharp, protruding edges and corners with small sandpaper;
clean and prime the wall panel.

Working through these stages requires caution and accuracy. Try not to overdo it and not remove the excess, so that the volume is not lost and you do not have to return to sculpting again.

Once the primer has dried, paint can be started.

If you are using paint of the same color, we recommend using white water-based paint in different shades. Lighter paint is applied to all protruding elements that carry the main stylistic load. For coloring, use a regular sponge, not a brush. This will avoid unwanted streaks.

The wall around the wall panel will not look too flat if you apply a layer of plaster to it and make it textured. To do this, you can use crumpled paper or a folded plastic bag.

Bas-relief using a stencil

If you do not have great artistic talent or are not sure of it, it is advised to decorate your home with a bas-relief using a stencil.

Learn all the subtleties and nuances of work, practice on a small piece of drywall and feel free to start the decor.

Templates for bas-reliefs can be made yourself from transparent plastic or purchased at a hardware store. If you do not find the drawing you want, feel free to proceed to self-production stencil:

search on the Internet or draw a pattern yourself;
transfer it to plastic using copy paper;
cut out the pattern on the stencil without leaving any burrs or cuts.

Stages of work:

Preparatory work.

Mark the wall so that the pattern is evenly spaced on the wall. Prepare some stencils as they are used only once.

Glue masking tape or glue to the back of the stencil. Attach to the wall and hold until you are sure the stencil is firmly adhered to the wall.

Priming the wall.

Run the primer over the areas where the putty will be applied. After priming, the wall should dry well.

Putty application.

A fine-grained putty is best suited for this work. You can buy it at finished form or as a dry mixture. In the second option, the mixture is diluted with water to the desired state.

Apply the putty to the stencil, completely filling all the holes. Each next layer is applied after the previous one has dried.

Removing the template.

When all the layers are dry, you can start removing the template. To do this, smoothly pull the stencil towards you and separate it from the wall.

Clean uneven edges with sandpaper or fix defects with a palette knife.

Decoration of the bas-relief.

You can start finishing the bas-relief after removing the stencil. Depending on the idea, you can use one color for painting, or several different colors.

For painting, it is better to use a roller with a foam pad and a special paint tray.

The pattern will be even more beautiful if you first go through the stencil with darker tones and then with lighter ones, leaving a dark outline. Pearl or gold paint looks good on such bas-reliefs.

Plaster bas-reliefs from ready-made forms

Doubt about your artistic ability? Then you can make a plaster wall panel. Even a novice artist can handle this material. It is enough to purchase a ready-made form in the store, mix gypsum and PVA glue, pour the mixture into the mold and wait until it dries completely.

After these steps, you must carefully remove the workpiece from the mold and fix the composition on the wall. Too small and small parts that are difficult to cast are molded by hand.

When the bas-relief is ready, it is necessary to seal all the cracks with white sealant. Then cover the entire composition with a primer and paint. Wax and gilding can be applied.

The hardest part of this process is finding the right shape. The main thing is that the mold can withstand the heating and expansion of the gypsum during solidification. Forms with thin plastic are unsuitable for these purposes. But silicone molds are what you need. And it is a pleasure to take out the product from such forms.

Using artificial flowers

To create bas-reliefs, you can use any artificial flowers: fabric, paper or plastic.

The process of creating such a composition begins with the preparation of a solution from a mixture of plaster and PVA glue. The consistency of the solution should be similar to sour cream. Artificial flower several times, dip in solution. Pause after each immersion so that the solution hardens slightly.

Do this with the right amount of flowers or other artificial plants. Wait until it hardens completely and attach it to the wall panel with thick alabaster.

Thus, you can make several fragments and from them already compose a composition for the whole wall.

Conclusion

Despite the huge number of advantages, the bas-relief is not the most popular option for decorating apartments today. The problem most often lies in the high cost of arranging volumetric wall panels.

But if you do the bas-relief with your own hands, then this problem will not exist and you can please yourself and your loved ones with a beautiful element of decor.

Since ancient times, bas-reliefs have been used to decorate various kinds of products and structures. Today, such decorative elements have found application in a wide variety of areas.

Bas-relief in the interior

The use of bas-reliefs gives a fairly wide scope for interior decoration. For example, you can create a separate panel in the form of a painting to decorate an empty wall.

Often, bas-reliefs are used for. The bas-relief in combination with the original illumination creates a truly original picture - thanks to the illumination, all the protuberances of the image will be seen even more clearly.

Bas-reliefs are great for decorating all kinds of openings.

Unlike another popular option for interior design - decorative painting - bas-reliefs do not need additional highlighting.

In the absence of color highlighting, the volumetric pattern will appear due to the play of light with well-equipped artificial lighting. Thus, the owner has the opportunity to create accents on the decorative elements at the time he specifically needs - all he has to do is turn on the lighting.

In addition to purely decorative functions, bas-reliefs do an excellent job of all sorts of functional tasks. For example, volumetric decoration allows you to level uneven surfaces, decorate engineering communications, visually distort the space at the discretion of the owner, and create smooth transitions between different functional areas.

A competent combination of volumetric relief and decorative painting allows you to create truly original and incredible effects.

However, despite its many advantages, the bas-relief remains not such a popular option for decorating premises. The essence of the problem lies in the high cost of arranging such volumetric elements.

Uninformed people often make the mistake of believing that the bas-relief is a prefabricated structure cast from plaster. In reality, such decoration is hand-made and is inherently exclusive. Consequently, it will take a lot of effort to arrange a beautiful bas-relief image, but if you really want to, you can handle all the activities yourself.

General guide to creating a bas-relief

To create a bas-relief with your own hand, you can use a wide variety of materials: gypsum, plaster-based plaster, alabaster, clay, etc. It is easiest for beginners to work with gypsum and plaster based on it.

First step

Use slats and plywood to create a low-sided drawer that looks more like a tray. In terms of its overall dimensions, the box must correspond to the dimensions of the future relief slab - there the bas-relief will be created.

Instead of a box, you can use other tools at hand, for example, a candy box or a frame of a suitable size, glued to the glass with adhesive tape.

Second step

Line the mold with plastic. Straighten the film so that there are no wrinkles or as few of them as possible.

Third step

Follow the manufacturer's instructions and pour it into the mold.

If you plan to create an ornament with a high relief, insert a wire into the slab for additional reinforcement of the future composition.

Fourth step

Leave the poured mixture for the initial setting time. This indicator is individual for different materials, check in a separate order.

Fifth step

Start creating a bas-relief. First, you need to apply the outline of the decorative ornament to be created to the slab, and then begin to build up the volume inside the decorated outline from the newly prepared mixture.

Build up the volume in layers, allowing each layer to harden a little.

It is quite convenient - while the material is wet, you can easily get rid of its surplus with a knife, and correct the ornament itself with a chisel and chisels for processing wood.

In addition, incompletely dried material is simply sanded down. It is much more difficult to carry out the necessary processing of the hardened surface.

If you plan to create an in-depth image, you can solve the problem in two ways.

The background layer is built up around the image, as a result of which the elements of the ornament appear in a certain depression. Finally, the plane of the background is sanded.
The images are deepened by sampling some of the base material using the chisels and cutters you are already familiar with.

Find out how and check out the basic techniques in our new article.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Bas-relief on specific examples

To make the process of creating a bas-relief more understandable, you should consider the procedure for arranging such a decor using specific examples. Two of the most popular options are offered to your attention - "lilies" and "tulips". Having mastered the order of their arrangement, you can cope with the creation of decorative bas-reliefs of almost any complexity.

"Lilies"

Bas-relief "Lily"

First step. Protect the base to be decorated by covering the required space with masking tape.

Second step. Cover the substrate with a putty, let it dry and apply a primer. It is best to use a primer paint. This composition is notable for the fact that after drying, the grains of sand included in the mixture remain on the base. Thanks to the roughness created, the subsequent layers of finish are held as firmly as possible. On average, paint-primer dries within 2-3 hours.

Step three. Using to apply a starter coat of Marseilles wax to the surface. This material hardens quickly enough, on average within 3-4 hours at room temperature.

Fourth step. Peel back the tape and paint in the details of the bas-relief. To do this, you need to fasten on top work surface for its entire length and width, a transparent plastic film. At the same time, you do not need to fix the lower edge - you should have the opportunity to bend it freely.

Fifth step. With a marker, apply a sketch of future "lilies" - stems, leaves, buds on a plastic wrap.

Sixth step. Once the sketch is complete, proceed to apply the Marseilles wax under the plastic wrap according to the sketch. First use a trowel to work, and then a palette knife.

The Marseilles wax used is white. To make the decor you create more visible, cover the finish with a suitable compound. For example, you can use water that has been lightly tinted with a cotton pad. This kind of composition can only be applied to a dried surface.

After touching up, you will see at once in which places the finishing material needs to be given the outlines of stems, flowers, etc.

Your task is to make the planned bas-relief as realistic as possible and corresponding to the sketch. This will take you a very long time, so there is no need to rush to finish everything as quickly as possible. Work carefully, deliberately, and gradually.

Bas-relief "Lilies" after the final decoration

After giving the bas-relief the required shape, let the composition harden and proceed with the application of the second layer of decorative finish - the desired color.

Prepare paint according to the manufacturer's instructions. On average, similar paints and varnishes dry for 5-8 hours. Specify the exact time in the description of the paint used.

In the end, all you have to do is apply a finishing layer of finishing - honed or another composition with similar properties. Armed with a wide brush, apply a sharpened double coat over the entire area of the wall to be decorated. The second layer can only be applied after the first one has dried. On average, this takes 1-3 hours. You must carefully paint over every element of the composition.

To give the composition additional visual volume and expressiveness, apply a white sharpened to certain areas of the bas-relief.

"Tulips"

And directly the work on creating "tulips" is carried out according to the scheme already familiar to you, namely:

Read, practical guide for, in our new article.

Creation of a bas-relief with my own hands is quite complex, painstaking, lengthy and requires tangible financial costs event. However, with the right approach, you can give the interior of your home a unique look.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

People always strive to make their home unique and beautiful. And no matter how difficult it is to achieve originality in typical apartment, there is always a way out. One of the most nontrivial and elegant solutions is creation. It seems to many novice masters that this is too difficult work, but this is not at all the case. You don't have to be an artist or sculptor to sculpt a wall panel. After watching the video with a master class on creating a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands for beginners, and having familiarized yourself with the step-by-step instructions below, you can easily cope with the task at hand.

Required materials and tools

To create a bas-relief, you will need some specific tools that can be purchased at hardware and art stores.

The list of materials and devices that will be needed for work:

thumbnail image;
polyethylene film;
trowel;
pencil;
marker or pen;
stencils;
gypsum or plaster putty (you can also use clay or alabaster);
special primer;
paint brushes;
palette knives (special blades of different sizes, which are used to create volumetric images, can be plastic or metal);
sculptural hinges;
masking tape;
latex gloves;
for colored bas-reliefs - color or paint of the desired shade.

Training

All bas-relief master classes begin with the preparation of a sketch. But the very first, preparatory step is the choice of a room and a wall where it is planned to create a volumetric composition.

First you need to think over the interior of the room where the bas-relief will be located. 3D images can be taken in any room, but most often they can be seen in living rooms and bedrooms.
Then you need to decide on the wall on which the bas-relief will be created. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how much space the panel will take, whether there is enough free space for it. The lighting must be taken into account, since the perception of the work depends on the light. If it is not enough, it makes sense to arrange additional illumination of the bas-relief.

Now you can select a suitable sketch. Beginners should not immediately tackle complex multi-layered and very voluminous shapes. For gaining experience, you can limit yourself to more simple forms: leaves, flowers or fruits. You should not immediately try to complete a complex plot picture, where there are many characters. But there is no point in taking too primitive images either: they will not look very interesting.

It is easier for novice craftsmen to work with gypsum or gypsum plaster. They are flexible, keep their shape well, and quickly set.

Creating a bas-relief from gypsum plaster

Now the base is being prepared. A layer of acrylic putty or Marseilles wax is applied to the wall. After that, you can treat the wall with fine-grained gypsum (satengypsum), then it will not be perfectly even, and the putty will stick to it better. This will be the basis for the future bas-relief. The putty is leveled with a spatula, then the layer is allowed to dry a little.
When the material starts to set, after about 15–20 minutes, you can transfer your drawing to it. The film is fixed on the wall with masking tape. In this case, one edge must be left free so that it can be lifted when needed. Then the stencil on polyethylene is outlined with a pencil or other suitable object, such as the back of a brush or a stylus. The image is imprinted on the wall.

Stage number 2. Main part

Now go directly to the formation of the bas-relief. This is the longest stage, during which the image gradually becomes embossed.

The putty is applied layer by layer to the wall along the drawn contour.
Each layer is allowed to dry, and only then the next one is applied.

The putty should be moderately thick, plastic and gradually harden.

All the details of the bas-relief are drawn with palette knives, and in difficult places they use sculptural loops.

If the parts are very convex, then it is advisable to screw self-tapping screws into the wall, which will reinforce the structure. This will allow the bas-relief to maintain its shape and not crumble.

Stage number 3. Refinement, fixing and painting

The final stage is fixing the bas-relief and its subsequent painting.

The finished panel must be dried well.
Then you can trim the bas-relief with sandpaper, smooth out the roughness and sharp corners... The important thing here is not to overdo it and not take away too much. At the same stage, all minor flaws are corrected: they cover up the cracks, cut through small details, etc.
The finished bas-relief is treated with a primer, and after it has dried - with paint. For putty, water-based paint is best suited.

Advice. To prevent the wall around the bas-relief from looking too flat, you can apply a layer of plaster on it, and then walk along it with a folded plastic bag or crumpled paper. The surface will immediately become textured.

Creating a plaster bas-relief

Separately, you should analyze how to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands from plaster, since the technology is somewhat different. With this flexible material, which offers many options, it is convenient and easy to work with both professionals and beginners.

For sculpting volumetric parts, it is better to use a mixture of gypsum and PVA glue. In consistency, the material should resemble plasticine.

It is not necessary to form every detail of the bas-relief layer by layer for a long time. For most typical images, ready-made forms are produced. They can be found in specialized stores and art departments. A plaster mixture is poured into the molds and dried. Ready-made elements they are removed from the forms and glued in the right places of the panel. Uncomplicated compositions can be completely composed of such elements.

Some details will have to be sculpted by hand and then glued to the wall, for example, this is how grape brushes or a miniature leaf do.
If the parts are quite large, then it is advisable to place a wire inside the mold, which will reinforce the structure.
When the image is ready, all the cracks are closed. To do this, you can use both the solution itself and white sealants.
The finished painting is covered with a primer, thanks to which the bas-relief will not crumble and get dirty.