Features of plaster walls made of aerated concrete inside and outside the premises. Facade plaster for aerated concrete Is it possible to plaster aerated concrete with gypsum plaster

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At the end of construction, the question arises of how to decorate your home from the inside, that is, how to plaster aerated concrete inside. This material is more often used in small buildings that have 2 floors.

This popularity of aerated concrete has several reasons:

low weight, which allows saving on specialized equipment and construction time;
retains heat well, therefore, even if the house is built in an area where low temperatures are often, the owners do not have to worry that the house will be cold;
if we compare this material with ceramic bricks, then the second one has a thermal resistance 3 times higher;
such a house will be reliably protected from street noise;
breathability is also high performance therefore, in such a building there will never be stale air;
influence environment and weather conditions absolutely do not affect the strength and durability of this material;
high resistance of aerated concrete to open fire.

But you should know that the plaster for aerated concrete is selected depending on the grade of density.

Due to the porous structure, aerated concrete was assigned the role of a heater. During laying, ordinary adhesive solutions are used, since the exact geometric shape allows you not to think about the number and size of the seams.

But it is worth noting one negative feature - low bending strength. This, in turn, requires the creation monolithic foundation, reinforced masonry, floors and roof structures.

How to finish the walls of aerated concrete

You should know that gas concrete walls somewhat different from surfaces created with other materials. Aerated concrete has a porous block structure, as it is included in the category of light cellular concrete. As noted above, at first this material was used as additional insulation, and later became independent.

The porosity of the structure is achieved by adding aluminum powder to the mixture. It reacts with other components, during which gas bubbles are formed. And this helps to improve the properties of vapor barrier. This feature affects how the internal will be done.

The most inexpensive and easiest way to finish the walls from the inside is plaster. It is used not only for internal walls, but also for the facade of the house, but you should always start plastering from the inside. This is done so that the water is provided with an outlet, otherwise it accumulates in the walls of the house, which leads to the formation of condensation, fungi and mold.

During construction in winter, evaporation will crystallize, which inevitably leads to cracking of the plaster, followed by its peeling. Therefore, plastering should be started from the inner surfaces, moving towards the outer walls.

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Plaster for aerated concrete: options

An important selection criterion finishing material- do not clog pores, otherwise vapor permeability will be impaired. This means that cement-sand mortars are not suitable for such purposes. Otherwise, moisture will be absorbed into the body of the block, and when it starts to dry out, cracks will appear. Moreover, neither a primer nor a high-quality putty will save the situation.

It is necessary to select a material that could emphasize the breathable feature of aerated concrete, otherwise the home microclimate will be disturbed. The modern construction market offers a special plaster, which is designed to work with cellular concrete.

In some cases, they adhere to a different focus - to create maximum vapor barrier. This option provides a longer life of the building. This is due to the fact that aerated concrete is saturated with the required level of moisture due to the lack of steam escaping to the street.

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Materials for plastering on aerated concrete

There are several options for how interior wall decoration is carried out:

Plaster and plaster. If you plaster the walls with a mixture of plaster and gypsum putty, then the level of vapor permeability increases. For this work, it is necessary to choose those materials that have high rates for this property. The best option is gypsum and its derivatives, because the basis of such mixtures is perlite sand and slaked lime. The convenience of this method is that there is no need to prime the walls. Such a coating does not prevent the penetration of vapors.
You can also plaster with mixtures made on the basis of chalk, limestone, marble or dolomite. An important point in determining the correct mixture is the size of the fractions that make up such a plaster. It depends on how easily and evenly the composition will be distributed over aerated concrete, as well as what its color will be after drying and how difficult it is to wipe it. The presence of polymer components does not affect the vapor permeability of the material. The treated walls almost immediately become ready for further finishing activities.

It should be remembered that the plaster will last for a long time only if the surface of the aerated concrete is pre-primed.

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Internal finishing of aerated concrete with vapor barrier materials

For walls made of aerated concrete, it is necessary to use a porous plaster mixture with high vapor permeability.

This point is also important when working with purl surfaces. For this purpose, you can simply use a plastic film. But if the technology is not followed, condensation may appear, and the plaster itself will swell.

Therefore, it is necessary to plaster the walls with sand-cement mixtures, which do not contain lime or dolomite. This will help reduce the transfer of water vapor, but the plaster itself will certainly peel off. Therefore, this moment must be taken into account without fail in order to imagine the consequences of the choice.

To reduce the effect of vapor barrier, you can pre-prime the walls with 3-4 layers, and if you additionally paint oil paint, the effect will increase.

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How to plaster walls and what you need for this

To prepare the mixture, and then apply it to the walls, you must have the following materials:

container for kneading, it can be a bucket or a tank;
construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle for mixing solutions;
Master OK;
grater;
beacons;
primer.

Typically, plaster is prepared by mixing the dry mix and water in the proportions indicated on the package. As soon as the composition has reached the desired consistency, it is applied by throwing it onto the surface using a trowel. It is necessary to distribute the solution as well as possible over aerated concrete, which will help create a minimum of drops and seams. To ensure that the surface is evenly treated, beacons are installed.

After the solution is completely dry, it is treated with a grater. Next, the walls need to be primed. The number of layers depends on the quality and brand of plaster used.

To detect possible defects, you need a rail with a length equal to the height of the ceilings. It is tightly applied to the surface and see if there are differences. If they do not exceed 0.5 cm, then they are left, otherwise it is necessary to eliminate such irregularities.

Initially, fate was prepared for aerated concrete good insulation and he did his job well. But over time, apparently, the “concrete” nature of this material played its role, and it began to be widely used as the main material in construction, successfully replacing the same brick or stone.

The price of the significance of the material has increased, but the requirements for the products that are used in conjunction with it have also increased, conventional cement mixtures and plaster are no longer suitable. Here we need special ones, with which the construction industry did not fail to immediately saturate the market.

General information

When working with aerated concrete, it is necessary to know the nature of its production.

A little about the essence of the problem

In the manufacture of aerated concrete blocks, the same are used:

cement,
quartz sand,
even ash and slag,
as well as gypsum and lime.

But, which creates advantages for this material and some problems in the future, when finishing - so-called gas generators are added to the composition, which, reacting with lime, contribute to the release of hydrogen and the formation of pores 1-3 mm inside. It is these pores that provide the unusual properties of the resulting product. Usually, all kinds of aluminum pastes act as a blowing agent.

What do we get as a result

As a result of all physical and molding processes, we get a material with simply outstanding properties:

it is unusually strong, concrete is all the same;
it is noticeably lighter than the usual concrete block of the same volume;
it turned out to be very easy to process, now it’s not even a problem to get any corners and irregularities in any direction - all this is due to the pores inside;

even nails easily enter this material;
it is completely non-combustible;
compared to ordinary concrete, “gas” has less so-called natural radioactivity, because crushed stone and natural mica are not used in its production;
as practice has shown, and which was another additional and unexpected plus - the material hardens even more over time, increasing the strength of the structures created from it;

but most importantly, around which all the fuss flares up when finishing aerated concrete - it has excellent heat-insulating properties and
vapor permeability.

Why be surprised that more than 250 factories for the production of this material have already been set up around the world. Only in Russia there are more than 80 of them, and most of the largest ones were built literally within 2-3 years - from 2009 to 2012.

Omnipresent standards

Such mass production of aerated concrete necessitated the creation of new State standards governing both its production and use.

Here is a list of all documents regulating the use of aerated concrete on the territory of the Russian Federation:

GOST 25485-89 "Acellular concrete" - classifies all possible types of materials under one common name - cellular concrete;
GOST 21520-89 “Small cellular concrete wall blocks” - determines the procedure for working with blocks;
SNiP 277-80 "Instructions for the manufacture of products from cellular concrete" - building codes and rules for working with this material;
GOST 31359-2007 “Autoclaved cellular concrete. Specifications" - specifications production and use of one of two types of aerated concrete - autoclaved, which is produced at elevated pressure in a steam-saturated environment (the other type - "non-autoclave" - is produced without pressure or with electrical heating);
GOST 31360-2007 "Wall products, unreinforced from autoclaved cellular concrete" - defines the recommended types of buildings from the described material.

A bit of physics and consequences from it

When it comes to aluminum, hydrogen and chemical reaction, whether you like it or not, you have to delve into the essence of emerging processes that tell us that:

yes we get very good material in terms of vapor permeability;
but it also requires an appropriate discipline in its use, which many violate;
as a result, visible damage to the surface finished with plaster, which is based on aerated concrete;
the fact is that it is impossible to cover a material with high vapor permeability with a material that does not let steam through at all - this leads to the fact that moisture simply will not find an outlet to the outside and will accumulate inside at the boundary of the layers;
therefore, it is necessary to follow the “non-decreasing” scheme of the vapor permeability coefficient; in other words, if we assume that this coefficient for aerated concrete is 1.0, then for the next layer it should already be at least 1.0, or even higher, let's say 1.2, then the next one is already higher than 1.2 and so on .

And this is physics, from which there is no escape, as from the law of universal gravitation.

What does disobedience lead to?

Violation of physical laws is always unpleasant, and this is not only an apple that has fallen on your head.

In the case of aerated concrete, this is:

periodic cracking of the surface, which is periodic, depending on the time of year and ambient humidity;
in the end, cracks turn into cracks and the finish simply collapses;

in addition, in the inner layers there is a constant accumulation of moisture, as a result - mold and, again, the destruction of the masonry;
in any case, even aerated concrete is no longer able to perform its original functions of thermal insulation.

There is an exit

As a matter of fact, all these processes did not come as a surprise to builders and special ones were developed:

adhesives for joining blocks of aerated concrete when laying them on top of each other;
primers for exterior finish these blocks;

plasters for both indoor and outdoor use.

Now you only need to know about the presence of these finishing materials and use only them with aerated concrete.

Helpful advice! Another conclusion from all the arguments about physics is that when finishing these blocks, we strongly advise you to first complete all the work inside, wait for some time, when all the finishes are thoroughly dried, and only after that. And by no means the other way around.

Work progress

If everything is understood correctly, then the work itself will not present significant difficulties.

The scheme we're aiming for

When working, the final result will be such a simple layered structure:

A - aerated concrete block;
B - reinforcement, you can’t do without it, despite the increased strength of the blocks;

C - a special adhesive for aerated concrete, by no means an ordinary cement mortar;
D - plaster on a possible primer.

We plaster aerated concrete

All work is done as follows:

first, a thorough cleaning of all seams between blocks to a depth of 1 to 4 mm is carried out; the main thing here is to exclude any insecurities in the masonry;
then we thoroughly clean everything from dust, including with a damp cloth;
let the surface dry completely;

then everyone can choose the finishing algorithm at their discretion;
for example, a very desirable next stage - a primer - is skipped by many, and there is no big crime in this departure from technology; the area of work, as a rule, is quite solid and unnecessary work that is not super-obligatory is not a sin to exclude;

Helpful advice! If you still decide to carry out a primer and want to do it faster, then we advise you to use an airbrush and spray the primer. This method, of course, is not distinguished by an economical attitude to materials, it does not always give satisfactory uniformity, but you will save a lot of time.

but the next operation, one way or another, will have to be performed - the fact is that the aerated concrete itself and the plaster used have good adhesion and are able to hold each other without any problems;
but we advise either to make notches with a chainsaw on the surface of the wall to improve adhesion, or, best of all,
place a fine metal or polyethylene mesh over the entire surface area, this will contribute to a much greater plaster retention effect;
and you can fix the mesh with the usual available fasteners, we advise you to choose only those protected from corrosion;

Helpful advice! To prevent the mesh from sagging, it is necessary to accurately select the fastening step of the fasteners. We advise you to choose it within 120-150 mm, as practice shows, this is the most convenient distance.

as soon as the “spray” has seized, the next layer is applied, not thicker than 5 mm, which is already smoothed out; on this layer, irregularities will be visible that will have to be eliminated by the finishing layer;

we wait until the rough plaster is completely dry;

as a final chord, we proceed to the finishing layer based on very small components;

when the last layer is completely dry, it is polished, first we grind it in the rough with ordinary sandpaper, and then more carefully with a grinding machine.

findings

Aerated concrete - beautiful and very popular construction material, which has remarkable properties that put it in the category of one of the most popular. But you have to pay for these outstanding properties with your understanding of all ongoing processes. Hence the use of special plaster, and the need to observe strict discipline when.

Violation of these rules can lead to complete and undeserved disappointment with aerated concrete. Be sure to watch the additional video in this article, it will help you not to relax and remind you of the nuances of the topic.

Recently, with the help of blocks of cellular concrete, they not only carry out thermal insulation, but also build houses. This material is somewhat "capricious", so the plastering of aerated concrete walls inside and outside the room should be carried out taking into account some nuances.

Many craftsmen believe that finishing work on cellular concrete walls must be carried out immediately after the construction of the building, but this undertaking is quite risky. This procedure better done in a year. The fact is that aerated concrete must have time to dry before the onset of cold weather, which can be prevented by the plaster layer. If moisture remains inside in winter, it will freeze, which will lead to cracking of the material.

First of all, internal plastering for aerated concrete should be carried out, after which you can proceed to the finishing of external surfaces. You can even play for a little time by doing the interior work in the fall, and the exterior in late spring. The only exceptions are buildings on the coast. In this case, the first step is to protect the outer walls from atmospheric influences.

First of all, internal plastering is carried out, and then external

Important! It is strictly forbidden to plaster a house from aerated concrete from November to March.

Is it necessary to plaster gas blocks outside

External plaster for aerated concrete is completely optional. On the contrary, many craftsmen recommend immediately ordering walls of such a thickness that would be enough to ensure a comfortable temperature inside the home without the use of plaster outside. An improperly selected composition or a violation of the application technology can lead to the destruction of the entire structure.

Many craftsmen oppose external plastering of aerated concrete walls.

Some advise using expanded polystyrene for insulation, but this material is practically impervious to water vapor. This leads to the fact that condensate accumulates at the junction of the insulation and gas blocks. In the cold season, it freezes and leads to cracking of cellular concrete. If, nevertheless, it was decided to use expanded polystyrene, then you need to lay a layer of 80 mm, while thermal resistance thermal insulation material should not be lower than this indicator of aerated concrete.

On a note! To get rid of the need for additional procedures, it is enough to order a wall 10 cm thick in warm regions, 30 cm in cold regions, and 20 cm is suitable for baths.

How to plaster gas blocks

The question of how to plaster aerated concrete outside and inside the room is not at all idle. It should be noted right away that plastering on aerated concrete cannot be carried out using cement-sand mortars.

To properly plaster aerated concrete walls outside or inside the house, you must use the following compositions:

Internal plastering of cellular concrete walls

Before plastering aerated concrete, attention should be paid to the thorough preparation of the base. To do this, remove all irregularities by means of a planer or a special tool for processing blocks of cellular concrete. This process is recommended to be carried out even at the stage of building walls, but some builders simply forget about it in order to save time. Planer processing does not affect the performance properties of the future coating, but with its help it can be significantly reduced during finishing.

After that, you need to apply a primer. Some masters dilute the primer with water, but this is fundamentally wrong. So you can save a little on the solution, but at the same time, the adhesion of the treated blocks will drop significantly, which may affect the duration of the coating. To save primer, it is better to pre-moisten the roller with water and pass it along the wall, then repeat the procedure, but with a primer. For wet rooms it is better to use deep penetration impregnation, for dry rooms - simple.

For better adhesion of plaster to blocks, it is necessary to pre-treat the walls with a primer

Then proceed to the installation of plaster beacons. This is one of the simplest operations, since the blocks processed by the planer do not have large drops. Using the building level, you need to find the maximum protruding point, add the profile height to the value, and, according to the value obtained, install beacons over the entire cultivated area with an interval of 130-160 cm.

Installation of plaster beacons will allow you to apply plaster perfectly evenly

When preparatory work finished, they begin to plaster the walls from the gas block. It is carried out using the following technology:

First of all, they are applied by the method of throwing. It is called spraying, and its thickness is no more than 3 mm.
After setting the spray, you can take on the main layer. It is called a primer, it is on the quality of applying this layer that all indicators of the finished coating depend. The material is collected on a spatula and transferred to the wall, so the entire area between the two beacons is treated.
Then you need to take the rule, press it against the beacons at the bottom of the wall and lift it up, while making zigzag movements from side to side. The solution will remain on the blade of the rule, it should be thrown up the wall. The procedure must be repeated until the blade remains clean after lifting.
After the material has set, beacons are removed from it, and the resulting strobes are filled with a solution. Next, handle the corners and hard-to-reach places, after which the entire wall is left to dry.
After the main layer has dried, the last one is applied - the coating. It is considered decorative, so its thickness is 1-3 mm. It is carefully leveled, and when it dries, rubbed with sandpaper.
It is necessary to wait for the strength of the material to set (the time is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging), and you can proceed to the fine finish.

The plastered coating is pasted over with wallpaper or painted. As a paint, it is better to use materials based on acrylic, latex, cement or organic solvents.

Plastering of external walls made of aerated concrete

Plastering aerated concrete outside can be carried out in two ways: applying in one layer or in several. The single-layer version loses somewhat, so it is recommended to opt for the second method. Before plastering a concrete wall, you need to carry out the same manipulations with it as with the inner wall. After that, it is necessary to install a reinforcing mesh.

Exterior plaster of aerated concrete walls is made using a reinforcing mesh

For these purposes, metal products with a wire with a diameter of 1 mm and a side of 16 mm or a fiberglass mesh with a cell of 5 cm are used. This product is cut into fragments of such an area that it is convenient to work with them. After that, a plaster mortar is applied to the surface with a layer of no more than 5 mm, while it is fresh, the mesh is pressed against it and it is sunk.

Then you need to pause and wait for the solution to dry. It is easy to check this: you need to sprinkle some water on the coating, if the liquid is quickly absorbed, you can continue to work.

In turn, with an interval of 3-4 days, two more layers of material of 10 mm are applied. After drying, the plastered surface is rubbed in the same way as the internal ones.

The last stage of wall finishing is plaster grouting.

On a note! Before plastering concrete walls, it is important to immediately determine the type of finish. Under different types paint requires different types of plaster.

Aerated concrete blocks rarely require any finishing other than decorative, but if such a need arises, then, first of all, you need to choose the right material for aerated concrete plaster, as well as follow the above rules and technologies.

Aerated concrete blocks are increasingly being used in the field of low-rise construction. That is why the question of how the internal plastering of aerated concrete walls is done is becoming more and more popular.

In this article, we will consider the features of the use of various plaster mixtures in the finishing of low-rise buildings, mainly for residential purposes.

The need for timely wall decoration

Before deciding on the better to plaster aerated concrete walls, let's figure out what this material is and what are its characteristics that can affect the conduct finishing works.

Aerated concrete has a low specific gravity, which minimizes the degree of mechanical load on the foundation. The light weight of the building material is explained by the cellular structure of the blocks. And, if low weight is an advantage, then the cellular structure turns into a disadvantage.

The fact is that aerated concrete blocks are characterized by low hydrophobicity. They literally absorb moisture, both from the external environment and from inside the building. Absorbing moisture, the blocks lose their original heat-saving qualities. In addition, excessive moisture leads to the gradual destruction of building materials and structures built with its use.

It is for this reason that plastering of aerated concrete walls should be carried out in a timely manner.

Features of wet plastering of walls made of aerated concrete blocks

Plastering of building objects erected with the use of cellular concrete is mandatory both from the outside and from the inside. The finishing process should begin from the inside and then proceed to the facade cladding.

A gross mistake is the external plastering of aerated concrete walls, carried out in the warm season. In this case, interior decoration begins with the onset of cold weather. Meanwhile, the water used in the manufacture of wet plastering mortars will, for the most part, permeate to the outside both through ventilation and through blocks of cellular concrete.

Eventually, water vapor will condense inside the blocks at their dividing line with the exterior finish, as the walls will eventually be plastered over on both sides. With a significant decrease in ambient temperatures, the external plaster, due to the freezing of moisture in the walls, will crack and peel off.

The technology of plastering walls made of aerated concrete does not provide for the use of cement-sand mortars, since such a coating will eventually become a serious obstacle to vapor permeability. As already mentioned, excess moisture in the walls must find a way out, otherwise the external plaster will deform over time and come into disrepair.

There are two ways to solve the problem of removing excess humidity without compromising the microclimate inside the room:

Through the use of plaster mixtures specially designed and manufactured for finishing foam concrete structures.

Speaking of special mixtures that do not interfere with the removal of steam, we mean plaster mixtures with a high content of gypsum.

Today, in any hardware store you can buy a wide range of gypsum putties, both for outdoor and indoor use. The composition of high-quality modern putties, in addition to gypsum, includes slaked lime and fine-grained perlite sand. Due to such components, the mixtures are characterized by a high degree of adhesion, and therefore it is not necessary to prime the surface of the walls before finishing work.

The finished plaster layer of putty acts as a filter material, due to which water vapor is effectively removed to the outside, while moisture from the outside practically does not enter the walls.

Using a vapor barrier film installed from the inside of the room.

Vapor barrier material - penofol

The film laid on the wall, before applying wet plaster, prevents the penetration of moisture into the blocks, so the type of exterior finish is not fundamentally important.

At first, the plastering of the walls inside the room was carried out using ordinary polyethylene film. As it turned out, the use of such a vapor barrier is not The best decision, as there is a high probability of accumulation of condensate and swelling of the plaster. The solution to the problem is the use of polyethylene non-woven fabrics with microperforations.

When using a moisture barrier, it is allowed to use cement-sand plaster mixtures made without the use of dolomite flour or lime as fillers.

The choice of tools for finishing work

Before plastering aerated concrete walls, you need to decide on the choice of tools.

In principle, the tools required are the same as for conventional plastering:

a plastic container for stirring the solution with a volume of at least 10 liters;
perforator with adjustable speed and a special nozzle for mixing;
plaster rule;
spatulas of different widths (wide 50 cm and narrow 10-15 cm);
medium-sized trowel or plaster ladle;
water level;
graters for leveling and grinding.

The technology of applying gypsum putty

The modern technology for plastering aerated concrete walls inside and out using gypsum putties is as follows:

We prepare the surface. To do this, carefully clean the walls from dirt and dust.

To increase the adhesion of the putty and the surface, we use an acrylic primer, which can be applied with a wide brush or roller. At the same stage, we install beacons. Of course, you can work without beacons, but with special guides, the finish will be faster and better.

If the wall does not have significant irregularities, we choose the thinnest beacons to reduce the consumption of putty. The installation of beacons is carried out on a thick gypsum or alabaster mortar.

We prepare a solution. In accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, pour water into a previously prepared container and pour dry gypsum mixture.

Tip: It is advisable to knead no more than 10 liters of solution at a time, since this amount is on average enough for 1 hour of work.
If you knead a larger amount of the solution, it is likely that it will seize before it is completely used.

You can find a detailed description of the technology of mixing gypsum putty in the relevant articles on our portal.

We apply the first layer of putty. Plastering on the lighthouses, we apply the solution from the bottom up to about the bottom of one third of the wall. You can throw the solution into the gap between adjacent lighthouses on a pre-moistened wall with a trowel, or you can apply it with a spatula. The outline layer should be 1-2 cm above the level of the surface of the beacons.

Align the applied solution. To do this, we apply a plaster rule to the surface of neighboring beacons and lead it up, periodically shifting the tool from one side to the other. In the process of leveling, putty accumulates on the rule, which must be removed in a timely manner with a spatula and mixed with the bulk of the solution.
After the first layer of plaster dries, you can proceed to the final leveling. A new putty mortar is diluted, which is applied and smoothed with a wide spatula.
The final stage of plastering is grinding the finished surface and applying a primer layer. After that, the wall covering is completely ready for painting work or applying decorative plaster.

Features of the use of cement-sand mortar

As already mentioned, before plastering aerated concrete walls with cement-sand mortar from the inside of the room, it is necessary to take care of effective vapor barrier.

Therefore, the work instructions are as follows:

The surface of the wall is cleaned of contaminants, after which a film vapor barrier is applied to it. We fasten the vapor barrier film in layers overlapping each other.

We fill the plaster mesh. In this case, it is optimal to use a chain-link metal mesh with a cell side of no more than 3 cm. Of course, you can apply plastic mesh, but metal chain-link has a relief, which allows the solution to better adhere to the wall surface.
We fasten the grid strips vertically with a gap between the previous and subsequent strip for the width of the beacon.
We install beacons in the gap between the grid stripes. We select beacons so that they are about 5 mm thicker than the mesh.
We prepare the plaster mortar in the proportion of 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand. We mix all the components in a dry form until a homogeneous mass is formed.
After that, add water in small portions to the dry mixture and mix until the solution reaches the desired consistency.
The readiness of the solution is determined as follows: we collect the solution on the trowel, tilt the trowel and watch how the solution slides down. The solution, ready to use, slowly slides, and does not drain or fall down in clods.

Sketching and leveling, in this case, is performed exactly the same as in the previously described method.
After the sketch and leveling of the solution is completed, the dried surface is rubbed with a foam float. Grouting is carried out in a circular motion with periodic spraying of the surface with water from a spray bottle.
After the grout is completed, you can start applying decorative plaster.

Dry plaster technology

Finishing the walls of aerated concrete blocks with your own hands, you should not forget about dry plaster. Wall decoration with GVL, OSB and other materials in the form of plates is becoming increasingly popular everywhere.

Of course, this type of finish will be an excellent solution for interior work, while the outer side of the walls can be plastered in the usual wet way.

Consider the technique of frame wall cladding drywall sheets, especially since the price of such a solution is affordable for most people.

Important: the average cost of a running meter of a frame profile is 30 rubles, while 1 sq.m. drywall will cost from 100 rubles.

Finishing work is carried out as follows:

We equip the walls with vapor barrier. For these purposes, we use glassine, membrane or polyethylene nonwovens with microperforation. We fix the vapor barrier with vertical strips with an overlap of 10-215 cm on each other.
We mount the crate from a metal profile. Until recently, the crate was made exclusively using wooden beam. But wood is a short-lived and expensive material. Therefore, metal galvanized profiles, which are light, inexpensive and stainless, have replaced wooden products.

To finish the walls inside the room, you will need a guide, rack and corner profile.

We fix the rack profile at a distance of 60 cm from each other, while the guide profile can be installed in increments of 1 meter. We fasten the profile with special dowels for working with foam concrete.

Important: To prevent the appearance of the drum effect, mineral wool slabs should be laid between the gypsum board and the vapor barrier.

We fix drywall plates with self-tapping screws, but not closer than 15 mm to the edge of the sheet.
We install the drywall of the upper row with some offset relative to the lower row.
After the wall decoration is over, you can start puttying the joints between adjacent drywall slabs. We do this with the help of a special mesh tape, which we glue to the joints with a putty mixture.

Conclusion

Now you have a general idea of what is the instruction for finishing walls from aerated concrete blocks. Despite the fact that there is a common opinion about the fragility and fragility of this material, aerated concrete blocks are not much inferior to other building materials.

However, this is possible only if the walls of foam blocks are protected in a timely manner with high-quality plaster from the negative impact of environmental factors. Again, despite the fact that the plastering of such walls is considered problematic, the correct approach to business, in accordance with the above recommendations, will ensure the proper quality of the finished result.

You can find more useful and informative information by watching the video in this article.

Since its inception in the construction industry, aerated concrete has been used exclusively as a heater. Later it began to be used for the construction of partitions. Then came the understanding that this material can be built bearing walls small low-rise buildings. At the same time, a problem arose - how and with what to plaster the walls of aerated concrete inside and outside the house. Since aerated concrete products leave the production line absolutely smooth, it is useless to plaster and putty them with ordinary solutions. These compositions on the surface of cellular blocks simply do not hold and slide.

It is also impossible to leave aerated concrete unprotected, since, due to its porous structure, it is susceptible to atmospheric influences and temperature changes. The cellular structure of this material endowed it with properties such as high vapor and water permeability. If the first property is useful when performing finishing work, then the ability to absorb moisture should be eliminated. This will help right choice plaster composition. Plastering technology must also be observed. Inside the house, plastering, puttying and screeding on the floor is possible only in the warm season, in the absence of rain and before facing the walls outside. If you do the opposite, and first close the facade, then evaporation from internal "wet" processes will concentrate in the pores of aerated concrete. Subsequently, this can lead to freezing of the supporting structures of the house, the appearance of mold, fungi, and the inner lining will peel off and fall off.

Material selection

For leveling and finishing walls made of aerated concrete blocks, it is best to use plaster mixtures designed specifically for such surfaces. This is indicated by the corresponding marking on the packages. The plaster composition must meet the requirements and provide:

good vapor permeability and the ability to repel moisture;
high adhesion to cellular materials and frost resistance;
endurance to changes in temperature, the effects of precipitation;
strength and density of the coating.

A special mixture for aerated concrete surfaces is more expensive than conventional solutions. However, the savings here are not justified. It is better to pay more than to ruin the wall structures and redo the work. Manufacturers offer a large selection of cement-lime-based and gypsum-based materials. Each solution has its own characteristics due to the ratio of components and the presence of additives, additives. Responsible dry mix application recommendations are based on field trials and can therefore be trusted. A quality product is easy to plaster without much practice.

Among the recommended compositions for interior work, Rotband plaster from the Knauf trademark deserves special attention. Represents the dry universal plaster mix consisting of plaster knitting and special additives. Plastering it is quite easy, even with your own hands, with a little skill. The main property of gypsum compositions is environmental safety. They meet all regulatory requirements for use in residential buildings and public buildings.

Mixtures based on cement and lime components can be used both inside and outside. However, when deciding whether to plaster with cement mortar inside, it is necessary to take into account both the conditions of the construction industry and the circumstances of the future operation of the premises.

External plastering of aerated concrete walls

Walls aerated concrete outside can be plastered only after the completion of all "wet" processes inside the house. This is one of the main rules for the production of finishing works for buildings with load-bearing structures made of cellular materials. Since aerated concrete walls have the ability to "breathe", it is necessary to plaster the facade with solutions endowed with a high level of vapor permeability. This level should be higher than that of the wall blocks themselves. If this condition is not met, then the plaster will delay the steam leaving the house. The walls inside and outside will become damp with all the ensuing consequences. For finishing, only special plaster for outdoor use can be used. The facade finishing technology is as follows:

The preparation of the surface of the walls consists in cleaning them from dirt, glue or mortar influxes, sealing seams and large sinks, if any. At this stage, the facade is primed. To improve adhesion, it is necessary to plaster over the primer.
Reinforcement. This issue is resolved in each case separately. Some experts believe that it makes no sense to use a reinforcing mesh if thin-layer plaster for aerated concrete is used. Although for greater confidence and reliability of the future coating, it will not hurt to perform reinforcement. To do this, fiberglass meshes with high resistance to alkalis are used, planting them on building glue. Plaster mixtures on aerated concrete have an alkaline orientation.
Application of plaster solutions. The process is no different from the traditional execution. If necessary, use lighthouses. Plastering outside can be done manually or with the use of small-scale mechanization (plastering machines or guns with semi-automatic control). The layer thickness is determined separately in each case and can vary from 7 to 15 mm.
To give appearance houses of a more attractive appearance or special personality are applied decorative plaster or coloring. To facade paints the same requirements are imposed on the coefficient of vapor permeability.

To increase the service life of the painted coating and maintain comfortable conditions in the room, it is recommended to use water repellents.

Interior wall plastering

It is necessary to plaster the internal surfaces, observing the technology and the sequence of work. The procedure itself is standard, as well as outside. The main requirements relate to the compositions used. Gypsum-based mortars are most often used, less often cement mortars with the addition of slaked lime. But both those and others on the marking should have recommendations for plastering on aerated concrete. Interior decoration performed only on a carefully prepared surface. It is cleaned of excess glue or masonry mortar, dirt is removed, seams are sealed. Before plastering, apply several layers of primer. You should use a material intended for aerated concrete, which has increased water-repellent and reinforcing properties, approved for use in indoor areas. The technology is as follows: each subsequent layer of primer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

If a decision is made to plaster on a reinforcing mesh (this the best way and more reliable), then glass fiber products with increased resistance to alkalis should be used. The grid must be firmly and evenly fixed to the plane. Sometimes, instead of reinforcement, notches are made on aerated concrete, which also help better adhesion of the inner surface and finishing material. Then you can plaster, apply a rough layer of the composition is recommended by the "spray" method. It would be good to use a plaster gun or machine so that the mixture is supplied under pressure and evenly distributed over the reinforcing mesh. At the beginning of the setting of the plaster mass, it is smoothed and primed again. This is followed by the process of applying the finishing layer for wallpapering or painting. It can be plastered with textured decorative compositions recommended for covering aerated concrete walls.